, November 05, 2012 10:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Mounts
I jacked the engine back up a tad, lined everything up with a drift pin and
it lined up fine. What a huge difference they make. Wicked smooth now. I
love how errthing on this 240 is so much easier to get
I am replacing the engine mounts on my 240 D. The 1 between the oil pan and
the crossmember I am putting it back together and there seems to be a lot
of slop between the metal and rubber parts. Is that normal? Or should the
metal draw up tightly against the rubber part?
Bob R
If you mean the one to the subframe, it is meant to be loose. It is
essentially a safety catch.
I am replacing the engine mounts on my 240 D. The 1 between the oil pan and
the crossmember I am putting it back together and there seems to be a lot
of slop between the metal and rubber parts.
Okay so that fits loosely. I understand. Now my issue is getting the holes
to line up so I can get the 8 millimeter bolts back in from the bottom. How
do I get those pigs to line up? I tried it with the engine down I tried it
with the engine up I can't get them to line up.
Bob R
On Nov 5, 2012
I guess I should probably clarify that I oriented the mounts the same way
the old ones came off and they're off by about a quarter of the diameter of
a hole
On Nov 5, 2012 1:14 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote:
Okay so that fits loosely. I understand. Now my issue is getting the holes
Find a tapered punch.
Randy
On 05/11/2012 3:22 PM, OK Don wrote:
Lift the engine enough to take the weight off so you can align the holes
with a drift pin, large Phillips screw driver, etc. Once they are aligned,
let the engine down to hold it in place, remove pin, insert bolt.
On Mon, Nov
I jacked the engine back up a tad, lined everything up with a drift pin and
it lined up fine. What a huge difference they make. Wicked smooth now. I
love how errthing on this 240 is so much easier to get to than on the 300D.
Bob R
On Nov 5, 2012 2:24 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
That is a very satisfying job!
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD
Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote:
I jacked the engine back up a tad, lined everything up with a drift pin
and
it lined up fine. What a huge difference they make. Wicked smooth now.
I
love how errthing on this 240
This is interesting.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_OM616
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL,
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
From 1982 240D, has new-style glow plugs.
Engine number 616.912-12-088993
Four-speed manual transmission from '72 220D
Both have about 180 kmi on them.
Mounted on pallet, ready to ship.
Anyone interested?
Craig
---
Craig McCluskey
Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed)
Well darn, I am, too bad I didnt pick it up while I was out there!!
Craig McCluskey wrote:
From 1982 240D, has new-style glow plugs.
Engine number 616.912-12-088993
Four-speed manual transmission from '72 220D
Both have about 180 kmi on them.
Mounted on pallet, ready to ship.
Anyone
My son sent me an instant message yesterday saying the 240D was trailing
some blue smoke and smelled like it was burning oil.
When I got home last night I started it up and popped the hood. Engine is
running a lot louder than it had been. It was night, so it's hard to be
definitive but it did
#1 piston probably has a problem. Does it idle rough too?
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 1:43 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY
Cox Auto Trader
730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 1:43 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..
My son sent me an instant message yesterday saying the 240D
Could be a needle stuck in its nozzle body bore. I've seen that so bad that
I'm convinced that no amount of Purge could remedy it. Makes quite the
racket but just requires nozzle replacement.
-joe
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list
Assume engine drain plug has never been removed.
Questions:,
1. Best way to access from above or below?;
2. Size of drain plug, looks to be between 17 mm and 20 mm what is it
please?
3. Is there rachet extention set combo that will work?
4. The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread
yep - gorilla, blowtorch to heat up the surrounding block, and some serious
torque. Dunno about putty or access approach, but the size is a 14mm or
17mm Allen socket (same as differential).
On 11/24/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Assume engine drain plug has never been
On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 12:26:20 -0500 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
4. The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread puddy when you
reinstall it.
It has an aluminum sealing ring. Don't loose it.
Craig
I recommend replacing the aluminum sealing ring - I replaced all of
them on the '78 117 engine. They were corroded inside and out, hard
and brittle - almost as bad as the rubber parts. The only place I
could find them was either the stealership, or Rusty.
4. The drain plug does it need a seal
Assume engine drain plug has never been removed.
And assuming you're talking about the things of which there
are (potentially) three or so along the waterline of the block.
In one of which the block heater goes, in other words. It's a
freeze plug, not a drain, in that you can drain more out
Now that I think about it - I opened the drain plug on the side of the
block on the 340D last year when I replaced the radiator. It's not one
of the freeze plugs - it's a little lower I believe, and it wasn't all
that hard to remove. I think it had a regular hex head, not an Allen
head.
On
On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 11:58:46 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Assume engine drain plug has never been removed.
And assuming you're talking about the things of which there
are (potentially) three or so along the waterline of the block.
In one of which the block heater goes, in
, 2006 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
Assume engine drain plug has never been removed.
And assuming you're talking about the things of which there
are (potentially) three or so along the waterline of the block.
In one of which the block heater goes, in other words
rumor has it that [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Assume engine drain plug has never been removed.
Questions:,
1. Best way to access from above or below?;
Above. It is right near the tail of the starter on OM616 engines
2. Size of drain plug, looks to be between 17 mm and 20 mm what is
it
On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 15:52:51 -0500 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
When I flush next time looking to pull this drain plug. Thanks for the
information any way it is always valuable.
On my _non-turbo_ 617, it's accessed from the front with a socket on a
rachet (or was it initially with a breaker
At some time fairly close to Fri, 24 Nov 2006 13:06:47 -0500,
rumor has it that Sunil wrote:
yep - gorilla, blowtorch to heat up the surrounding block, and some
serious torque. Dunno about putty or access approach, but the size
is a 14mm or 17mm Allen socket (same as differential).
And Jim
I know this is a long shot but, I live in Maryland and am looking for
an engine for my '83 240D. I have a nice rust free car with an
engine with 0 compression in cylinder #1. I have checked valves
etc. and bought a glow plug compression tester. It will run in 3
cylinders but there is a
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