On Thu, 18 Apr 2019 13:52:02 -0400 Dan--- via Mercedes
wrote:
> Someone has gone before you.
>
> Your bell housing casting is broken because someone has used the “ribs”
> as a fulcrum for a screwdriver against those little raised “tabs” you
> can see on the torque converter.
>
> That works,
Someone has gone before you.
Your bell housing casting is broken because someone has used the “ribs” as a
fulcrum for a screwdriver against those little raised “tabs” you can see on the
torque converter.
That works, too, when ring gear teeth can’t be accessed.
-D
> On Apr 18, 2019, at 1:22
Yes... add 4 liters, start engine, add remaining fluid at idle.
Jaime
On Tue, Apr 16, 2019 at 4:32 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Is there anything special about re-filling the transmission with fluid
> if one drains the torque converter?
>
>
Is there anything special about re-filling the transmission with fluid
if one drains the torque converter?
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Nearly all cars I’ve done this on I’ve been able to turn the engine from
below. A deep 27mm socket is important of course, but the ratchet matters
too. One with a swivel head will allow you to hook up to the socket and
still clear the shroud. Done from under the car, you can put one hand on
the
Here's an idea. Turn on your smart phone video recorder, place it so it has a
good view of the window where the drain should appear. Rotate the engine at
the front while reading out loud the crank pointer readings. Review the
recording, you'll have a good idea of where the drain is.
Seems to me that Gerry posted a while back that he used a endoscope camera
connected to a laptop and aimed at the torque converter to locate the bolt.
Where is Gerry?
Rick
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On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 20:34:14 -0500 Curley McLain via Mercedes
wrote:
> I use a big screwdriver/screwdriver type prybar on the ring gear from
> underneath. 1 tooth at a time. Now which way should I turn to get to
> the drain with the fewest teeth? (take a guess)
But don't you want to always
> On April 13, 2019 at 8:57 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> The problem is that it is hard for one person to watch for the torque
> converter drain (at the back of the engine, underneath) while rotating the
> engine from the front.
I'm 5'9", don't have any trouble rotating a
On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 20:57:51 -0400 Max Dillon via Mercedes
wrote:
> Once I found the drain, I wrote down the reading of the crank pointer,
> so next time I can rotate from the front of the engine.
That's a good idea!
> 27mm socket on the crank pulley. Rather a pain to get in place.
I can
There I fixed it!
Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote on 4/13/19 6:57 PM:
Remote start switch. Bump it until you see the drain plug go by.
Then exercise your sailor's vocabulary!
Much more accurate!
Or….
Long flat bladed screwdriver. You can engage the screwdriver blade in the
flywheel teeth
I use a big screwdriver/screwdriver type prybar on the ring gear from
underneath. 1 tooth at a time. Now which way should I turn to get to
the drain with the fewest teeth? (take a guess)
If you change it every 30k, I am comfortable not draining the TC, so
long as the fluid if fairly clean.
The problem is that it is hard for one person to watch for the torque converter
drain (at the back of the engine, underneath) while rotating the engine from
the front.
I think I used the method Dan described, using a flat screwdriver to rotate at
the back of the engine, from underneath.
Power steering pulley bolts are usually easy to get to as well, you can turn
the engine with them.
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Remote start switch. Bump it until you see the drain plug.
Or….
Long flat bladed screwdriver. You can engage the screwdriver blade in the
flywheel teeth through the cast “screen” in the bottom of the flywheel housing
and turn the engine over slowly, about a inch or two at a time. I’ve done it
Among my other screwups with changing the ATF on the '93 E300D, I
realized I had not drained the torque converter. Since the car is
still up on jack stands and I have not run the engine, I figured
now is the best time to do it.
On page 2 of the PDF 2702, it says,
Turn crankshaft until
In my 84 300D, I could work a huge socket (22mm) onto the crankshaft
and
27mm, IIRC. 22mm is the PS pump, usually a fine alternative for
turning the engine over.
turn it by hand. Now, there's a fan shroud in the way, at the
minimum. Is
there an easier way to turn the engine?
See above!
/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 6:57 PM
Subject: [MBZ] draining torque converter
I'm draining the ATF out
://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 6:57 PM
Subject: [MBZ] draining torque converter
I'm draining the ATF out of my 300D and changing the ATF
I'm draining the ATF out of my 300D and changing the ATF filter. How do you
turn the engine to line up the drain bolt on the TC?
In my 84 300D, I could work a huge socket (22mm) onto the crankshaft and
turn it by hand. Now, there's a fan shroud in the way, at the minimum. Is
there an easier
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