> If Shoe Goo could be used in a high pressure caulking gun,
> wouldn't it make a better windshield sealer than RTV?
Sooner or later the sealer has to come _off_, so I'd say no.
-- Jim
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> There is a loud rattle on bumps, which turns out to be the bottom
> center of the windshield glass slapping against its dead butyl seal.
> I'll need to get some more of the RTV sealer to put along there. With
> the dash out it can now be accessed. (It's also a heck of a lot
> louder out in the
Somehow during the dash removal the grounding for the instrument
cluster had gone bad. There were some very weird interactions of the
lights and gauges, especially with the turn signals. Normally I might
suspect the cluster itself, but using the turn signals caused the seat
belt light timer to cy
Another session with the car got the dash out. Per the instructions,
you have to remove the HVAC mechanical connections, and lower the
steering column a bit. That was the worst part, it didn't want to
lower enough to let the dash out. I had to loosen the turn signal
switch assembly too, and it w
In keeping with the holiday, it was time to do some scary stuff. I
pulled the console, which is not all that easy. It was made harder
because the radio was stuck in place. I had to pull off the side
carpets in order to get it out with the radio still in place. When I
removed the armrest (per in
I installed the new ignition parts. That took longer than expected,
partly because the new wires were longer than the old, partly to remove
the band-aids I'd installed before, partly because the plug wire clamp
to the passenger side was falling apart, and partly just because I'm
slow. I kept the
> clear shoe goo should do the trick, but you need to keep the SL in a
> heated garage to allow the goo to cure well enough.
I don't know if it's really flexible enough given how that area wads
up when the top is folded. Maybe if it was very thin.
-- Jim
___
clear shoe goo should do the trick, but you need to keep the SL in a
heated garage to allow the goo to cure well enough.
clay
On 23 Oct 2007, at 19:02, Jim Cathey wrote:
> It promised to be a beautiful day, so I put the top down. It was
> still
> pretty chilly, and as I was pushing the top
Magnets can be used to hold the vinyl pieces together while gluing.
Someone else was actually resourceful enough to think of such a Catheyesque
idea? What an awesome list we have!
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
___
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> Oatley makes a clear all purpose cement for ABS, PVC and CPVC. You
> might want to start there, in the plumbing aisle.
Will consider it.
> not sure about long-term clarity. Stuff that stays clear for
> decades inside a box of arrows might go yellow pretty quick
> on a car top outdoors.
The ri
Magnets can be used to hold the vinyl pieces together while gluing.
Rob
'85 300D
Costa Mesa, CA
ps: Still smoky out here in SoCal.
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 00:13:59 -0400
>From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] Post Falls SL
>To: Merce
>> I cannot remember what the cure time is. You just want
>> to slap it up there by hand and have it stay? If so,
>> fletching cement is probably out unless it has improved
>> since I last bought it.
>
> Ideally, yes.
> -- Jim
--
PVC pipe cement has a volatile solven
m: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Post Falls SL
> How about contact cement, then paint the outside black over the
> cemented area for that elegant look
>
> On
How about contact cement, then paint the outside black over the
cemented area for that elegant look
On 10/25/07, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> Jim Cathey wrote:
> >
> > > You just want to slap it up there by hand and have it stay?
> >
> > Ideally, yes.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norma
Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> > You just want to slap it up there by hand and have it stay?
>
> Ideally, yes.
I haven't purchased Fletch-Tite in over 15 years, but there's
now a product called Fletch-Tite Platinum. Clamp time with
vinyl vanes is said to be 2-3 minutes, which is still a lot of
time u
Oatley makes a clear all purpose cement for ABS, PVC and CPVC. You
might want to start there, in the plumbing aisle.
At 10:39 PM 10/24/2007, you wrote:
> > I have a can of clear PVC pipe glue (Oatey-regular-clear-PVC-cement
> > #31013 ). Haven't noticed if it dries clear (like between 2 pieces
> I cannot remember what the cure time is. You just want
> to slap it up there by hand and have it stay? If so,
> fletching cement is probably out unless it has improved
> since I last bought it.
Ideally, yes.
-- Jim
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For new parts
Jim Cathey wrote:
> If the PVC pipe glues were clear I'd be willing to
> try one of those.
I've seen vinyl fletching glues that were pretty clear.
If they will hold fletching on an arrow they should be strong
enough to hold your window patch in place. Not sure about
flexibility, but it's at leas
> I have a can of clear PVC pipe glue (Oatey-regular-clear-PVC-cement
> #31013 ). Haven't noticed if it dries clear (like between 2 pieces of
> clear
> pvc, but I would guess that it would. Home Depot sells it.
The real test is what happens when two flexible vinyl bits are
glued with it.
-- J
>> What kind of glue, Jim?
> I haven't decided yet. Ideally it would be some sort
> of clear contact cement, I don't see how to hold it in
> place for a long setup glue (like Shoe Goo) to take,
> nor is SG really flexible enough.
> If the PVC pipe glues were clear I'd be willing to
> try one of t
> What kind of glue, Jim?
I haven't decided yet. Ideally it would be some sort
of clear contact cement, I don't see how to hold it in
place for a long setup glue (like Shoe Goo) to take,
nor is SG really flexible enough.
If the PVC pipe glues were clear I'd be willing to
try one of those.
-- Ji
What kind of glue, Jim?
On 10/23/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> It promised to be a beautiful day, so I put the top down. It was still
> pretty chilly, and as I was pushing the top down into place I heard a
> loud 'POP'. Yep, one of the rear quarter windows split completely
> acro
It promised to be a beautiful day, so I put the top down. It was still
pretty chilly, and as I was pushing the top down into place I heard a
loud 'POP'. Yep, one of the rear quarter windows split completely
across. Crap.
After work I stopped by the upholstery shop. They sold me a scrap of
viny
> More like, "If the fix is good enough, why fix it better?"
Well, it's better but not great. It's on my list for my
upcoming Rusty order!
-- Jim
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On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 08:04:09 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Now I just have to remember to actually replace the wires. (Out of
> sight, out of mind...)
More like, "If the fix is good enough, why fix it better?"
Craig
___
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What, no old refrigerator metal getting welded on the ends to form new
connectors? I am so disappointed!
--R
Jim Cathey wrote:
> OK, so the plug wires are shot and I need to get new ones. But what can
> I do _today_? I need to be driving this car, if at all possible.
>
> So, I pulled the
OK, so the plug wires are shot and I need to get new ones. But what can
I do _today_? I need to be driving this car, if at all possible.
So, I pulled the coil wire, wiped it down, and put it in the shop oven
to dry. While drying, I cleaned the dirt out of the coil cover and put
it in the oven t
> I went outside after full dark (or as full dark as it gets around
> here),
> started the engine, and popped the hood. Even though it had dried off
> some and the engine was still quite warm I could see spidery violet
> glows here and there, especially on the coil wire and the other wires
> on
> An easy way to check the spark plug wires is to go out on a soggy
> night and have SWMBO crank the car while you look under the hood in
> the dark. A miniature lighting display says you need now plug
> wires. in my experience, which is all with pre-1980 gassers, in the
> no start in soggy weath
An easy way to check the spark plug wires is to go out on a soggy
night and have SWMBO crank the car while you look under the hood in
the dark. A miniature lighting display says you need now plug
wires. in my experience, which is all with pre-1980 gassers, in the
no start in soggy weather con
When my 117 started getting hard to start, then progressed to refusing
to start - I found what I assume to be the cause to be loose intake
manifold bolts (to the head) on one side (finger loose) and ALL the
rubber seals, tubes, etc. in the intake system were rock hard and
loose. This started the re
> Distributor cap is dirty -soggy from condensation, or the sensor that
> tells the cold start valve to squirt is bad or has a bad connection?
I cleaned out and off the distributor cap, which had some small amounts
of smut in it. I used WD-40 and a clean rag, and used the Dremel wire
brush to cle
Don't those cars have that funky two-stage coil or a resistor or something so
the starting spark is hotter, or put another way, so there's yet another
possible thing to fail when you need it most, ie when starting.
D.
On 10/16/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yesterday morning I had
Spark plug wires? Often an issue when things are "dewy".
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 10:47 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Post Falls SL
Yesterday mor
Distributor cap is dirty -soggy from condensation, or the sensor that
tells the cold start valve to squirt is bad or has a bad connection?
On 10/16/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yesterday morning I had _extreme_ trouble getting the car started.
> This car has always been hard to star
Yesterday morning I had _extreme_ trouble getting the car started.
This car has always been hard to start, cold-blooded, but nothing as bad
as that. It was chill, and very dewy, but nothing really worse than
before. It just cranked and cranked and cranked. It fired once, but
wouldn't stay runnin
Friday I was able to pull the back off the driver's seat and found that
the square drive rod had slipped out of the inside gearbox. I detached
the seat back and drove both pivots separately, no problem. I put it
partially back together with the rod engaging both sides so the car can
be driven. I
It really does work and simple as can be. The issue I am coming upon
is the lack of adequate final coat and rust is returning.
clay
On 28 Sep 2007, at 21:13, Jim Cathey wrote:
> I've finally put up a picture of the grille de-rusting
> in mid-progress. The electric rust removal trick really
>
I've finally put up a picture of the grille de-rusting
in mid-progress. The electric rust removal trick really
works, and is dirt cheap. (My favorite!) The picture
is of the inside of the grille, not the shiny show side.
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/SL2/grillerust.jpg
-- Jim
___
I removed the driver's seat, exposing quite a sea of crap that had
accumulated under it. Lots of wrappers, etc. I also found 52 cents,
a pair of tweezers, and the broken-off lock handle that I had
fabricated a replacement for! I wish I'd found that earlier, I think
I could probably have glued it
Flush with success, I then tackled the soft top. I was able to flex
the soft top mechanism sufficiently to gain access to the broken-off
end of the bolt. There was a lot of stress on the bows, but nothing
broke. I got out the Harbor Freight Pittman arm puller I'd bought
earlier and cut a chunk of
Since Jill was away this morning I used Jill's hardtop hoist to lift
the top back off the car so I could work on it. The lift makes that
handy, you can raise and lower it for access to screws, etc. I took
off the interior trim to see if I could expose the wires to the glass,
and what I found was
Of course, if it's still dark outside I can't do those other tasks,
so if I'm up at 4 AM I can justify working on the car, right?
Time to check the Bucket-O-Death.
It's done a fine job on the part that fit into the bucket. But the
grille is large and looks like it needs about four treatments. Th
After work, given that I need to do some other things in the
mornings for awhile, I tackled the front grille. I pulled it off and
found a bit of rust starting against the hood, so I brushed that off
and rattle-canned it with the color paint.
The plastic finned grille had a chunk off one end of a
> Is the "lock knob" that you fabricated the locking thingy that's
> behind and above the inside door release lever? If so, I have a
> difficult time thinking of that as a knob - it's more of a lever to me
> This is assuming that the 380 107 is the same as my 450 107 ---
They're identical.
Is the "lock knob" that you fabricated the locking thingy that's
behind and above the inside door release lever? If so, I have a
difficult time thinking of that as a knob - it's more of a lever to me
This is assuming that the 380 107 is the same as my 450 107 ---
>
> The door looks good, wor
Gonna get those doors done, baby! First I needed to make moisture
barriers. I got one of the empty salt bags that I've used before, and
found that the 107 doors are too long for this to work. I couldn't
find the roll of plastic sheeting I'd bought for this purpose, but I
did find a plastic dropc
> But how long does it take to write 1000 words versus taking one
> picture?
The taking is not so bad, except for the necessity of not
getting the camera greasy. It's the uploading, transferring,
editing, cropping, linking, renaming, etc. that takes the time.
Just what I've found over time. (Th
On Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:57:36 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> >> A post like this needs photos!
> > My sentiments exactly!
>
> Y'all are right, but I have found that taking photos
> really cuts the rate at which I can get the jobs _done_,
> and as I'm time-limited right now that has
>> A post like this needs photos!
> My sentiments exactly!
Y'all are right, but I have found that taking photos
really cuts the rate at which I can get the jobs _done_,
and as I'm time-limited right now that has gone by
the wayside. I'm more of a 1000-words man, myself.
-- Jim
On Tue, 11 Sep 2007 11:10:07 -0500 "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A post like this needs photos!
My sentiments exactly!
Craig
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A post like this needs photos!
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 10:08 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Post Falls SL
I'm getting real tired of the door panels bein
I'm getting real tired of the door panels being off, as a result the
car looks pretty crappy inside and my wife isn't all that interested
in riding in it that way. (My five-year-old son doesn't much care.)
They've been off for more than two weeks and the only thing keeping
them off now is the miss
Window adjustment. (And yes, I unplugged the ignition module for the
job.) I used Shoe Goo to bolster the plastic coating on the bottom
window stop that was tearing off. That should help keep it quiet and
from scratching the paint which could allow rust to start in the door.
I got the window adj
I pulled the door check to grease it (since I could reach it so
easily) and found that one of the knurled brass rollers was heavily
worn and one of the tensioning springs was missing. One of the
retaining screws was also loose. Can't do much about the roller,
which looks like it has done a lot of
I put the finished pocket back on the passenger door panel, then I
started gluing the skin back onto the other pocket. I found a
matching screw in the junk box for the pocket that was missing one.
I then glued the loose window glide back onto the glass in the
passenger door, I used vinyl caulking
The driver's door panel still wasn't quite done, so I did a little
more gluing on it. While it was drying, and I was looking for some
suitable donor plastic to repair the door pocket, I ran across a vent
knob that looked like it could be made to fit. Its hole was a bit
wide, but I cut a little pi
> You wrote:<< gluing of the door pocket came out well>>
> I must have missed it - what kind of adhesive did you use?
> 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive?
Full story: http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/SL2.html
There's a link to the log.
Quick answer: Shoe Goo for structural repairs, 3M weatherstrip
ce
SCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.
- Original Message -
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Post Falls SL
> Yesterday&
Yesterday's gluing of the door pocket came out well, it looks good and
seems nice and strong. Time for round two. I cut two thin strips of
metal (stiffening spines from a wiper blade) to nestle into the ribs
at the top of the pocket and glued them in place over the break there.
(Shoe Goo, of cour
I began gluing up the driver's door skin and pocket. I peeled back
the door skin at the bottom, first removing some staples, and then
slid a sheet of mylar (floppy disk) coated with weatherstrip cement
behind it. That should close up the small tears that are in the lower
rear corner. I then wash
> Maybe _that_ why the other one failed. Not just 'cause the
> ignition was left on, but because the poor heat sinking.
Let's hope so, but I think any more extended key-on testing
will be done with the module unplugged!
> Are you still able to get "plain" ShoeGoo? The shops around here
> seem to
It seems than at Wed, 29 Aug 2007 09:44:15 -0700, Jim wrote:
> I pulled the ignition module back out, cleaned behind it, and put
> thermal grease between it and the fender wall. I put it back, and
> replaced the missing third mounting screw with one from the donor car
> so that it would be clampe
I pulled the ignition module back out, cleaned behind it, and put
thermal grease between it and the fender wall. I put it back, and
replaced the missing third mounting screw with one from the donor car
so that it would be clamped down securely for good thermal contact.
That took an hour that I did
Yes, the ignition module was definitely bad. I pulled it out and got
the car started with the replacement, then swapped in the original and
it wouldn't start. The replacement was exactly the same part number:
Bosch 0 227 100 042, Mercedes-Benz 002 545 26 32. There's also a part
number molded int
The vinyl gluing came out OK. Not great, but acceptable. I bent the
metal ears of the new piece on the fuse box cover so that it fit as
snugly as possible without binding when installing the cover.
I then tackled the driver's-side window adjustment, etc. I printed
out the instructions and then
Redghost wrote:
>
> Since the 115/114 shared so many parts with the 107, would not a
> transmission set up from that model be a pretty good hook up?
I met a guy who put a 4sp from a 115 in a 116 300SD, pedals and all.
Said it was a dog off the line until the turbo spooled up.
> Since the 115/114 shared so many parts with the 107, would not a
> transmission set up from that model be a pretty good hook up?
Perhaps, though the V8's might be a bit too strong for the
usual manual transmission. The clutch/flywheel area was where
I was particularly expecting difficulties, an
Today's log:
Ah _there_ it is! The idle controller, though behind the glovebox as
advertised, is tucked to the left sideways against the HVAC plenum and
_not_ forward against the firewall as shown in the manual. (Those are
the blower and temperature controllers for the ACC system, and the
fuel p
Since the 115/114 shared so many parts with the 107, would not a
transmission set up from that model be a pretty good hook up? Would
need to fetch a different drive shaft to compensate for the AT trans
length, but seems like it should work. There a a bunch of shafts and
trans to be had.
> Come to Seattle, go to Benz Friendz, see what is in the warehouse
> that will probably fit, and have a 4 speed manual Cathey Toad SL
You should look for me! :-)
Either a manual tranny setup for the M116 (?), or else something
that's purely unplug and go is preferable. I'd like my wife to
be a
Drive the 107?
On 8/20/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> So I was thinking, "How can I keep this car without getting
> killed?" We just got back from a week's coastal vacation, and
> one of the things we talked about was how nice it would have
> been to have a toad over there. A conver
It seems than at Tue, 21 Aug 2007 09:07:11 -0700, Jim wrote:
> > They make driveshaft de-coupler kits for toads, along with brake
> > actuators for the cars brakes. Dig around the RV sites and you'll find
> > them.. For the driveshaft, you'd wind up with an extra lever in the car
> > to disconnect
Come to Seattle, go to Benz Friendz, see what is in the warehouse
that will probably fit, and have a 4 speed manual Cathey Toad SL
clay
On 20 Aug 2007, at 21:34, Jim Cathey wrote:
> So I was thinking, "How can I keep this car without getting
> killed?" We just got back from a week's coastal v
One of the Remco driveshaft disconnectors would certainly work if there's
one available for the 107. It can be ready to drive or be towed in seconds.
Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
2006 Sprinter PV 1.5Kmi, The Box
___
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On Tue, Aug 21, 2007 at 12:16:44PM -0400, Mitch Haley wrote:
>
> Jim Cathey wrote:
> > I've seen some of that stuff, but we're talking about goodies that
> > exceed the value of the car. I was hoping to come up with a clever
> > way, preferably using microwave oven parts, to do it cheaply.
>
> W
Harbor Freight had those rollabout things on sale, put a couple of those
under the rears!
--R
Mitch Haley wrote:
> Rich Thomas wrote:
>
>> Tow dolly?
>>
>
> Unless you get another dolly for the rear wheels, you'd have to
> either tow backwards (scary, especially when behind a trailer)
>
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I've seen some of that stuff, but we're talking about goodies that
> exceed the value of the car. I was hoping to come up with a clever
> way, preferably using microwave oven parts, to do it cheaply.
Warn locking hubs?
___
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On 8/21/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > They make driveshaft de-coupler kits for toads, along with brake
> > actuators for the cars brakes. Dig around the RV sites and you'll find
> > them.. For the driveshaft, you'd wind up with an extra lever in the car
> > to disconnect the drivesh
> They make driveshaft de-coupler kits for toads, along with brake
> actuators for the cars brakes. Dig around the RV sites and you'll find
> them.. For the driveshaft, you'd wind up with an extra lever in the car
> to disconnect the driveshaft , then you don't have to worry about the
> tranny.
I'
They make driveshaft de-coupler kits for toads, along with brake
actuators for the cars brakes. Dig around the RV sites and you'll find
them.. For the driveshaft, you'd wind up with an extra lever in the car
to disconnect the driveshaft , then you don't have to worry about the
tranny.
---R
> All you need to keep the engine running to drive the front pump.
Well yes, but having the toad idling away back there for hundreds
of miles does not thrill me!
-- Jim
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Jim Cathey wrote:
>> Tow dolly?
>
> Right out. Our main trouble is that we often end up in some
> places where towing a trailer(-ette) is impractical/impossible.
> Especially since my wife won't do it. With a pure toad, once
> you pull the pin you have two independent drivable vehicles,
> and no
> Tow dolly?
Right out. Our main trouble is that we often end up in some
places where towing a trailer(-ette) is impractical/impossible.
Especially since my wife won't do it. With a pure toad, once
you pull the pin you have two independent drivable vehicles,
and no pesky trailer to get in the wa
Rich Thomas wrote:
>
> Tow dolly?
Unless you get another dolly for the rear wheels, you'd have to
either tow backwards (scary, especially when behind a trailer)
or disconnect the drive shaft.
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Tow dolly?
--R
Jim Cathey wrote:
> So I was thinking, "How can I keep this car without getting
> killed?" We just got back from a week's coastal vacation, and
> one of the things we talked about was how nice it would have
> been to have a toad over there. A convertible would have been
> particu
So I was thinking, "How can I keep this car without getting
killed?" We just got back from a week's coastal vacation, and
one of the things we talked about was how nice it would have
been to have a toad over there. A convertible would have been
particularly nice. Our truck is more than capable o
Cleaned, lubed, and adjusted the throttle linkage. That takes awhile!
While I was there I noticed that the cruise control actuator rocked on
its two mounting bolts. Two bolts? Aren't there three? Turns out
the bracket on the bottom for the third bolt was missing, and I think
that could possibly
Tuesday, August 7, 2007
I didn't have much time this morning, but I managed to remove the
ashtray, console cover, and ACC panel. Four of the five lamps behind
the panel were burned out. The ashtray frame retention screw holes
were stripped so I smeared some Shoe Goo into them, I'll redrill pilot
Oh, and I added a lamp-test circuit to the low-fuel light.
Not sure when they put these in factory, but not by '82
at least. It's an easy mod once the cluster's out.
I did it on that 240D too.
-- Jim
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I have repaired the clock, it needed the usual two capacitors.
I rebuilt the trunk lamp assembly, now it sort of works. The
idle controller got resoldered, but I'm not sure it made any
difference. (May not have been anything wrong with that system.)
The cruise amp just got resoldered, it also nee
Thanks to you, this poor 'SL will now run rather than sitting until it's so
decayed that it can never run or drive again.
Good luck with your "rolling restoration."
Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
___
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> Good work once again, Jim! What are your plans for this one?
Small-scale rolling restoration, followed by sale for a modest
profit. Will be cheap even at the end. Such is the plan, anyway.
-- Jim
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Good work once again, Jim! What are your plans for this one?
Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
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Well, fool that I am it turns out that in the haste of the on-the-road
repair attempt I had jumpered the wrong two pins on the fuel
pump/kickdown relay. (Pin 87k is not the same as pin 87.) When I
jumpered the correct two pins the pump ran. (That would have made
getting it home a lot easier!) O
On Wed, 1 Aug 2007 07:12:30 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> The car started instantly. When I turned off the fuel pump the car died
> instantly. Looks like it could be a wiring problem. That's much better
> than a bad fuel pump, though it could be a bit labor-intensive.
So, semi-s
the Chicken Cross the Roadster
That's funny! Should we start a "Name Jim's Roadster" contest?
Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
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I restored the vacuum system to normality from yesterday's
jury-rigging. I jacked up the rear of the car and removed the plastic
shield for the fuel pump assembly. The rubber boots for the
electrical connections are bad, but the connections were still good.
I checked, and power was not getting ba
> You need to call this one the Chicken Cross the Roadster
I can't! If I name it it might stay. Not allowed.
-- Jim
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>> Just for the record, let me say that you're clearly not right in the
>> head...but, that's probably a good thing, eh? Keep on, keepin
>> on...sucker.
>
> That's me! Would _you_ really pass up a $2k SL that was ready to
> drive with a good chance of only a little soldering required?
Oh wait, y
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