2. Remove thermostat and bolt the thermostat housing
back
IIRC running a MB OM6xx.x without a thermostat is a no-no.
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD
Tan Qu wrote:
Well, we have a lot good insight here. So here is what
my plan is:
1. Remove the 2-piece fan shroud
2. Remove thermostat and bolt the thermostat housing
back
3. Remove upper hose and overflow tank cap and fill
the engine and radiator.
4. Close overflow tank cap
5. Start the engine
So, if you want to verify the radiator - take the old thermostat, or
the current one (replacing it later), and lock it in the open position
(as if flushing the system), install it and run your test ---
On 12/29/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Tan Qu wrote:
Well, we have a lot good
Tan,
You must reinstall the thermostat before step 7. The thermostat when fully
open routes coolant to the radiator instead of the bypass.
Bruce
Tan Qu [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well, we have a lot good insight here. So
here is what
my plan is:
1. Remove the 2-piece fan shroud
2.
Put back the upper hose
7. Let engine continue running with various speed.
keep an eye on the temp gauge.
We're OK up to here. But without a thermostat, coolant
won't be forced to flow through the radiator and will
prefer to take the bypass channel, _especially_ if your
radiator is a bit
Isn't it more like a STDP?
Bruce
Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Put back the upper hose
7. Let engine continue running with various speed.
keep an eye on the temp gauge.
We're OK up to here. But without a thermostat, coolant
won't be forced to flow through the radiator and will
On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 20:33:20 -0800 (PST) B Dike [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Isn't it more like a STDP?
No, Jim had it right. Single pole, double throw: switching one input
between two outputs.
Bruce
Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Put back the upper hose
7. Let engine continue
Yes. It still did.
Tan
--- Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Jim Cathey wrote:
It happens quite a lot, actually. I'm surprised
we all
forgot to recommend an independent test of the
gauge
temperature.
It's possible that the aux fan gave an independent
assessment
of high
PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
Well, we have a lot good insight here. So here is
what
my plan is:
1. Remove the 2-piece fan shroud
2. Remove thermostat and bolt the thermostat housing
back
3. Remove upper hose and overflow tank cap
You said Go get a soda pop and let it burp, after it
burps there should be little pressure on upper hose.
- what do you mean exactly? I am not quite sure what a
soda pop is, actually.
Go have a drink of your favorite beverage. Coffee,
beer, soft drink, etc. Let it sit enough to cool off
some,
Tan Qu wrote:
Trampas,
You said Go get a soda pop and let it burp, after it
burps there should be little pressure on upper hose.
- what do you mean exactly? I am not quite sure what a
soda pop is, actually.
Leave the car alone for a few minutes while the air bubbles
rise out of the head
How do you lock it in the open position? Boil it until
it opens and put an object in between the plate and
openning? I don't want to do anything unwise to leave
something loose and get caught up somewhere.
Tan
--- OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So, if you want to verify the radiator - take
Ok, I see now. I thought the soda pop was something to
go into the system to help the burp. -:)
Tan
--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You said Go get a soda pop and let it burp, after
it
burps there should be little pressure on upper
hose.
- what do you mean exactly? I am not
How do you lock it in the open position? Boil it until
it opens and put an object in between the plate and
openning?
Brute force and brass shell casings, in my case.
See: http://cathey.dogear.com/SDLcool.html and
http://cathey.dogear.com/JSLcool.html
Copper tubing would also work.
-0600
From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
2. Remove thermostat and bolt the thermostat housing
back
IIRC running a MB OM6xx.x
engine which way it is.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 10:12 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
I know from bitter bitter experience
Trampas wrote:
I have always heard that if you remove the thermostat it will circulate the
water really fast through radiator. Thus the water does not stay in contact
with metal of radiator long enough to transfer heat.
I've heard it multiple times too. No basis in fact, but like most wives'
I have always heard that if you remove the thermostat it will
circulate the
water really fast through radiator. Thus the water does not stay in
contact
with metal of radiator long enough to transfer heat.
I've heard it multiple times too. No basis in fact, but like
most wives' tales, it will
Mitch Haley wrote:
Trampas wrote:
I have always heard that if you remove the thermostat it will circulate the
water really fast through radiator. Thus the water does not stay in contact
with metal of radiator long enough to transfer heat.
I've heard it multiple times too. No basis in
Did the boil test last night, the thermostat I just
took off the car opened nicely near the boiling point.
Fully opened when the water was boiling. Also checked
the upper hose again, no pressurized syndrome. So I
guess new pump is the next course of action. I still
have a Laso pump on hand. Would
Did the boil test last night, the thermostat I just
took off the car opened nicely near the boiling point.
Fully opened when the water was boiling. Also checked
the upper hose again, no pressurized syndrome. So I
guess new pump is the next course of action. I still
have a Laso pump on hand. Would
Jim Cathey wrote:
You're _sure_ the radiator flows well, the thermostat is
in the right way around, and that there's no huge air bubble trapped
in the head?
I 2nd the air bubble question.
Does Tan have ramps? Ramp up the front of the car and see if it burps.
I am pretty positive on the first two but not last
one. The thermostat on OM602 only goes in one
position. There is a tab in the thermostat housing
that sits in a small recess on the thermostat. Put it
in other ways the housing would not close properly. I
missed it when I put the second thermostat
I will try that. But again, wouldn't you think this
problem would have shown up right away when last time
I drained and refilled the system (+/- a year ago)? To
me this seems to be a gradual thing. About two years
ago when I replaced the old water pump (leaking), the
coolant temp at the normal
Tan Qu wrote:
I will try that. But again, wouldn't you think this
problem would have shown up right away when last time
I drained and refilled the system (+/- a year ago)? To
me this seems to be a gradual thing. About two years
ago when I replaced the old water pump (leaking), the
coolant temp
If the new pump raised the temp, what did the impeller look like?
Was it a cast turbine, or fins bent from sheet metal?
There should be a pic of a proper one on Rusty's site.
Tan Qu wrote:
I am pretty positive on the first two but not last
one. The thermostat on OM602 only goes in one
position. There is a tab in the thermostat housing
that sits in a small recess on the thermostat. Put it
in other ways the housing would not close properly. I
missed it when I put the
It has been a while since I replaced it. So my memory
vaguely remember it was a solid cast iron unit. Looked
exactly like the one shown at Rusty's site.
Tan
--- Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If the new pump raised the temp, what did the
impeller look like?
Was it a cast turbine, or
To me this seems to be a gradual thing. About two years
Radiator degradation is the only thing I can think of
besides a thermostat that can cause a gradual increase
in operating temperature of a car. If the coolant was
not flushed regularly corrosion may have built up slowly
in the radiator
Jim,
If my radiator/engine internal indeed are clogged up
I'd really go nuts - I have beening flushing/refilling
with MB coolant just about once a year!
Tan
--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
To me this seems to be a gradual thing. About two
years
Radiator degradation is the only
.
--
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 07:22:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Tan Qu [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
I am pretty positive on the first two but not last
one. The thermostat on OM602 only goes in one
position. There is a tab in the thermostat
If my radiator/engine internal indeed are clogged up
I'd really go nuts - I have beening flushing/refilling
with MB coolant just about once a year!
Since new? A PO could have done the worst damage due
to neglect.
-- Jim
appear out of nowhere.
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 07:22:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Tan Qu [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!
-update
I am pretty positive on the first two but not last
one. The thermostat on OM602 only
.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tan Qu
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 4:21 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
Wife has been the one who drove the car. I
periodically drove
Tan Qu wrote:
Wife has been the one who drove the car. I
periodically drove the car and took care of the things
I notice. But you know how women are - as long as the
car seems to run they think everything is just fine.
Anyhow I was aware the operating temp sat at 84c (with
a 80c Wahler
Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tan Qu
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 5:04 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
I don't have an infared temp meter so I have to come
up with something else to get the block
Tan Qu wrote:
I don't have an infared temp meter so I have to come
up with something else to get the block temp.
Now, if the pump is ok, water should come out the
upper radiator hose even with thermostat in, right?
How likely is that the temp sensor is bad? Where is
the sensor located that
I don't have an infared temp meter so I have to come
up with something else to get the block temp.
Harbor Freight has them on sale periodically for $50.
Mighty handy.
Now, if the pump is ok, water should come out the
upper radiator hose even with thermostat in, right?
Que? Flow direction
Well, we have a lot good insight here. So here is what
my plan is:
1. Remove the 2-piece fan shroud
2. Remove thermostat and bolt the thermostat housing
back
3. Remove upper hose and overflow tank cap and fill
the engine and radiator.
4. Close overflow tank cap
5. Start the engine
6. If coolant
Trampas wrote:
I am not sure where the temperature sensor is on your car, but because you
said the aux front fans came on I would think the gauge is reading correct.
The sensor that sends information to the gauge has NOTHING to do with
with the several temp controlled switches that activate
: Thursday, December 29, 2005 5:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
Well, we have a lot good insight here. So here is what
my plan is:
1. Remove the 2-piece fan shroud
2. Remove thermostat and bolt the thermostat housing
back
3. Remove upper hose
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