On 2020-12-23 18:16, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
Congrats! So the old rod end still had a pinch sleeve clamping it?
I think so, I'll have to look for it in the daylight.
If the new one had come with sleeve and nut like the Moog does, I would
have caught on sooner. I thought the slotted,
Congrats! So the old rod end still had a pinch sleeve clamping it?
-
Max
Charleston SC
On Wed, Dec 23, 2020 at 6:41 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>
> The deed is done.
> I cut a notch in the rod end to find the end of the rod, and for a few
> days I f
The deed is done.
I cut a notch in the rod end to find the end of the rod, and for a few
days I filled the rod end cavity with ATF and occasionally hit it with a
torch until I could hear the ATF boiling. Today it got up to 50 degrees
and I figured it was my last chance to not be working in sn
I like to cycle heat and cold on a rusted part. Mapp torch, then spritzer with
ice water. Repeat three or four times. Maybe the last time it's hot, hold a
birthday candle to the threads.
Rick
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Can you post a photo or two so that we can see what you are up against?
That might help with suggestions.
RB
On 14/12/2020 12:51 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
The rod end is rusted onto the tie rod and won't unscrew, at least not
to the holding power of a 15mm open end wrench on the rod,
If you've got the time to mess with it, sounds like you can try the
wet washcloths and acetylene torch, and then if you melt the bellows,
you get the kit to replace that. If the blue wrench works, you can
install your new tie rod end, and if the blue wrench doesn't break the
rust free, you buy the
My options are pretty much down to:
Keep pouring penetrating oil on it, warming it with a heat gun, and
praying.
Try to break it off with a nut splitter (not intended for nuts that are
inches long).
Buy the $86 tool from MAC or Snappy and praying it does the job. (a lot
of money to pay fo
Presuming I understand your problem, I offer this work around.
Jack up and support the front of car, remove wheel for access [if memory
serves, rod end that came apart was RH?]
Turn steering wheel to the extreme travel limit to the broken side. then
push the rubber boot back along the tie rod to
Don, I think Mitch's car has rack and pinion, not recirculating ball, so inner
end of the rod is different.
Mitch, I like the water soaked rag idea, I've used that several times when
brazing copper tubing and didn't want to destroy the seals in the valve just
inches away from the joint. Heat t
This is in an ML, which has a little different configuration as it’s rack and
pinion, not recirculating ball/Pitman arm.
The tie rod is two pieces, with the ball joint and threaded piece one part, and
another threaded rod that connects inside the steering rack, how exactly I
forget. For that ma
Back in the day of Rusty, it was reasonable to buy the whole tie rod with
ends already installed. I did that for W115 and W107 cars ...
On Mon, Dec 14, 2020 at 12:52 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> The rod end is rusted onto the tie rod and won't unscrew, at least no
The boot that goes on the steering rack is sold by the dealer in a kit form
with a tube of grease and a new clamp pretty cheaply, like under $20. I know
because one of mine was torn and I replaced it along with the tie rod because
the ball joint seal on the tie rod was bad, too.
-D
> On Dec 14
Mitch Haley via Mercedes writes:
> Wish I had some Kroil handy instead of this Liquid Wrench I soaked it
> in yesterday.
If you have acetone, try mixing up a little with some ATF and use that
as a penetrant.
Allan
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Soak a rag in ice water and wrap it around the tie rod just ahead of the rubber
boot on the rack to act as a heat sink. You might be able to get more heat into
the tie rod end that way. Also, once it's hot, apply candle wax (birthday
candle) to the threads and capillary action with wick it into
The rod end is rusted onto the tie rod and won't unscrew, at least not
to the holding power of a 15mm open end wrench on the rod, or a 10" vice
grip. My baby pipe wrench, with jaws thin enough to put on the little
bit of rod that's exposed, had less grip than the vice grips.
I can try heating
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