Yes
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 29, 2017, at 10:59 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> This is the $800 240D?
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives
This is the $800 240D?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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It’s been sitting for a week cold. Just finished the adjustment. Took me a
couple of valves to get back in the groove of it. It’s probably been 10 years
since I have done a valve adjustment on one of these. I looked at chain stretch
and it is right on the mark at tdc, so no chain stretch. Cams
> Kaleb wrote:
> So I can look it up but am lazy. What is the intake and exhaust
> specs supposed to be?
0.1 mm intake, 0.35 mm exhaust
or 0.004 inch intake, 0.014 inch exhaust.
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To search list archives
> Kaleb wrote:
> So I can look it up but am lazy. What is the intake and exhaust
> specs supposed to be? Also I am trying to remember if it’s best
> to do it on a warm or cold engine. I seem to recall I have
> always done it cold.
Cold. Like "sit all night" cold.
So I can look it up but am lazy. What is the intake and exhaust specs supposed
to be? Also I am trying to remember if it’s best to do it on a warm or cold
engine. I seem to recall I have always done it cold.
Sent from my iPhone
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http://www.okiebenz.com
90 minues labor iirc. Around $150 these days, + parts.
On Thu, Nov 19, 2015 at 3:18 PM, Bob via Mercedes
wrote:
> I just adjusted my valves before the cold air moves in for the season. 1983
> 240D needed it bad,its been 30 K since I did last. It took me 3 hrs
> taking
I just adjusted my valves before the cold air moves in for the season. 1983
240D needed it bad,its been 30 K since I did last. It took me 3 hrs
taking my time & cleaning parts as I go along. Got MB rubber gasket for $12
from
stealership. Question is : what is the going cost for this job by
Sorry folks I know I have asked, and had answered, this question before,
but I can't recall what the intake and exhaust clearances are for the
OM617.
I'm going to adjust mine this weekend if possible, the falling
temperatures have not brought any starting difficulty, but I have been
negligent
Cold engine 0.10 mm intake (temps below -20 C 0,05 mm), 0.35 mm exhaust
On 11/22/08, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Sorry folks I know I have asked, and had answered, this question before,
but I can't recall what the intake and exhaust clearances are for the
OM617.
I'm going to
- Original Message -
From: Glenn Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 10:25 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Valve adjustment, latex gloves
Yes, I use latex gloves for this type of MB repair as the black Delvac
1300S
would otherwise probably
That's just how I did it. I would leave a little extra clearance knowing
that it would get tighter as the locknut was torqued down. This is why the
last few went MUCH more quickly for me.
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266Kmi, Ursula
___
That's a good idea. A big box of gloves are fairly cheap at Walgreens.
Gerry
---
- Original Message -
From: Timothy Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
My indies, Gary and son, Todd... first time I took the car into their
shop, Todd snaps on these rectal exam
archer wrote:
That's a good idea. A big box of gloves are fairly cheap at Walgreens.
Yeah, I buy them $6 a hundred at Harbor Freight, and the last 80 die in
the box of old age 3-5 years after I buy them. Gotta use them more.
Mitch.
___
You should use the nitrile gloves -- latex doesn't really hold up very
well, and the nitrile blocks off a lot of nasty stuff.
--R
Mitch Haley wrote:
archer wrote:
That's a good idea. A big box of gloves are fairly cheap at Walgreens.
Yeah, I buy them $6 a hundred at Harbor
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:06:46 -0800
From: Kevin Kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve adjustment
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=original
I like the latex glove
PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve adjustment
My indies, Gary and son, Todd... first time I took the car into their
shop, Todd snaps on these rectal exam gloves and said, What seems to be
the problem? It's a running joke now... but they do perform repairs with
those latex gloves to keep their hands
Yes, I use latex gloves for this type of MB repair as the black Delvac 1300S
would otherwise probably be present for some time.
If there's a trick to valve adjustment on our diesels, I found that setting
things just a little loose and then tightening down the locknuts with the
special wrenches
yep, there is an art to setting them so that the gap is right after
the lock nut is tightened down. After I set them, I always spin the
cam around one more time, rechecking each valve as the cam
turns. When I can get all the way around without having to reset
any, then I figure I am done.
On Feb 6, 2008 6:11 AM, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Latex gloves are thin and weak you want nitrile gloves. They're blue, much
thicker and resist most chemicals.
I've got some I bought a Home Depot a year ago that are still in remarkably
good shape for being worn 4-6 times.
Last
So you're the guy making a mess of all the walls and mailboxes in my area??
Ed
300E
On 06/02/2008, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I wear them until
they tear, and then save them to wear on one hand when using rattle
cans of spray paint, to avoid the telltale backsplash onto the
oh stop complaining, I did an oil change 2 weeks ago with a foot of snow on
the ground, and I did it from the bottom.. I'm still picking the road salt
out of my ears. hee hee.
Ed
300E
On 05/02/2008, Glenn Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I spent all afternoon doing a valve adjustment on my '84
I spent all afternoon doing a valve adjustment on my '84 300D, thank
goodness it was 72F and I could work with the garage door open. 1st time
I've done this by myself, what a bear . . .
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
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http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see
1st time
I've done this by myself, what a bear
I call it bonding. It did take me the better part of an afternoon to do
my first valve adjustment on my 1981 300CD. It's a job done totally by feel
other than setting up the feeler gauges. I bought two sets of them, one for
intakes and one for
Yeah, there's nothing like the feeling of knowing you did a job well,
yourself. :-)
Ed
300E
On 05/02/2008, Kevin Kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
1st time
I've done this by myself, what a bear
I call it bonding. It did take me the better part of an afternoon to do
my first valve adjustment
So now you're good at it, Glenn, you gonna hep me? LOL
From: Glenn Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 19:33:58 -0500
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Valve adjustment
I spent all afternoon doing a valve adjustment
] Valve adjustment
1st time
I've done this by myself, what a bear
I call it bonding.
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I like the latex glove idea since I have a few pairs lying around the house.
That last valve adjustment got my hands quite greasy (wouldnt be surprised
if there was still some under my fingernails two years later :D)! I haven't
gotten around to doing the job on the '83 'SD, and my wrenches are
tested on animals, just humans... but no complaint in my
thirty years of makin' it.
From: Kevin Kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:06:46 -0800
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve
On Mar 30, 2006, at 10:17 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:
$75.00 for a 3 piece set of Genuine MB wrenches.
Grab 'em up boys Its about the same price of 1 hour labor.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
too cheap. way too cheap
On 3/30/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Mar 30, 2006, at 10:17 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:
$75.00 for a 3 piece set of Genuine MB wrenches.
Grab 'em up boys Its about the same price of 1 hour labor.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of hue wong
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 5:25 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] valve adjustment wrenches?
So I just looked on ebay and a pair of bent 14mm box ,
valve adjustment, wrenches were
I never used the official wrenches. I have never even seen them, other
than in pictures. I have always used just plain open end (combination)
14mm wrenches. You need one that is thin. Lately I have been using a
cheap combination wrench that has been ground to make the jaws thinner, for
What he said! My experience, almost exactly.
On 3/29/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I never used the official wrenches. I have never even seen them, other
than in pictures. I have always used just plain open end (combination)
14mm wrenches. You need one that is thin. Lately I
The bent wrenches are totally unnecessary. Valve adjustments are easy to do
with standard open end wrenches, just use a good light so you can see exactly
where to place them. The only thing you might consider is file or grind one
down to make it a tad thinner to grab the lower nut.
On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 21:37:23 -0800 Dennis Perkins
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My understanding is it's better to have them on the loose side if your
having problems getting it just right vs. tight. Is this right?
Yes.
Craig
Is the idea that being bent they'll clear the injector lines and
therefore allow more movement?
Levi
B Dike wrote:
The bent wrenches are totally unnecessary. Valve adjustments are easy to do
with standard open end wrenches, just use a good light so you can see exactly
where to place
On Mar 30, 2006, at 7:14 AM, Levi Smith wrote:
Is the idea that being bent they'll clear the injector lines and
therefore allow more movement?
Levi
Yes, clearance is the reason they are shaped like that. I use the
Hazet set, made specifically for the purpose. They cost somewhere in
the
A few days ago, some chap on the list offered his for $40.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of hue wong
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 5:25 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] valve adjustment wrenches?
So I just looked on ebay
Thats the funniest thing i have heard in a while.
B Dike wrote:
The bent wrenches are totally unnecessary. Valve adjustments are easy to do
with standard open end wrenches, just use a good light so you can see exactly
where to place them. The only thing you might consider is file or
Dennis Perkins wrote:
My understanding is it's better to have them on the loose side if your
having problems getting it just right vs. tight. Is this right?
There is a little additional noise, little consequence in performance
and none to starting when the valves are a little loose. When
$75.00 for a 3 piece set of Genuine MB wrenches.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Hurst
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 8:55 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] valve adjustment wrenches?
we used to sell those just
:55 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] valve adjustment wrenches?
we used to sell those just about every day. last i remember they were
$85
for the set of 3, but not sure what they cost now
On 3/29/06, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://www.samstagsales.com
So I just looked on ebay and a pair of bent 14mm box ,
valve adjustment, wrenches were going for $$$65.00...
Zoiks! I say!!! Seems high...
I don't have the ability to heat and bend my own, so
does anyone know of a better deal out there?
Thanks in advance!
I don't have the ability to heat and bend my own, so
does anyone know of a better deal out there?
You could. A propane torch, a bottle of MAPP gas, and a pair
of pliers (or two) is about all you need.
-- Jim
Should be able to heat with a basic propane torch and bend with a basic bench
vice. Not rocket science.
Randy B
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of hue wong
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 5:25 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] valve
http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm#diesel
About $100 for 2 of the bent wrench and one of the other.
Randy B
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of hue wong
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 5:25 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] valve
Well that is what I am going to do with that nasty 606 from now on.
Might give Gump a ream, just for grins when her GP change around 300k.
On Friday, March 17, 2006, at 07:12 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:
redghost wrote:
Reamer is very important. The carbon builds up and can interfere with
the
Tom offered:
Valve adjustment is an art as much as a science. Remember, you use
feeler gauges. You have to learn the proper feel of the gauge at the
correct adjustment. That said; the only way to learn is to do it several
times. I suggest you get someone who has done it before to guide you
OK Don wrote:
The feel part of using a feeler gauge is to have some resistance when
pulling the gauge through the gap, but not so much that it's changing
the gap -- no resistance means that the gap is too wide.
One thing I've found helpful, when I'm in doubt, is to do a go/no-go
test. Try a
Reamer is very important. The carbon builds up and can interfere with
the GP doing its job. The plug will cook and short out much sooner if
the crud is not removed at each change of GP. Paid $600 to have all
the crud removed in the e300d because the last guy to install GP #5 did
not, and
OK, so I haven't yet decided on whether I'm going to attempt the valve
adjustment on my 83' 300D myself or hope I can find someone who knows
what they're doing. If I decide to go that route, it sounds further
complicated since from what I recall the engine is supposed to be cold
as in let to
I've only owned my MB for 2 years now, but I've done at least 5 valve adjust,
and it's a fairly straight forward job. For the order, do the valves first and
then diesel purge and change your filters. The main spinon filter has a
suggested interval of 15kmi, so it can be changed the same time
the references. Where's the best/cheapest place to get the valve
adjustment tools? Or wouldn't I really need them?
Supposedly it can be done without, but it's rather painful. I made
my own out of long 14mm wrenches from the pawnshop and a torch. Don't
start with flimsy ones as the bends you
Who learned valve adjustment on a 1939 Chevrolet Coupe.
60 Falcon for me. As I recall, several times I did it while
the engine was idling. I don't really recommend this method!
(On that pushrod engine it was neither dangerous nor very
messy, but it's not very easy and is kind of hard on the
Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 9:32 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge,
etc.
Who learned valve adjustment on a 1939 Chevrolet Coupe.
60 Falcon for me
] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 9:28 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge,
etc.
the references. Where's the best/cheapest place to get the valve
adjustment tools? Or wouldn't I really need them?
Supposedly
Tom offered:
Valve adjustment is an art as much as a science. Remember, you use
feeler gauges. You have to learn the proper feel of the gauge at the
correct adjustment. That said; the only way to learn is to do it several
times. I suggest you get someone who has done it before to guide you
On the wrenches, the other writer was correct. Get some cheap open-end
wrenches (14 or 15mm? I think), put the open end in a vise, heat it with
a torch about 1 inch above the working part, bend it 45 deg, then heat
it again about 2 in beyond that and bend it back the other way so it is
establish a more solid relationship.
Tom Potter
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 9:28 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge,
etc
Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge,
etc.
the references. Where's the best/cheapest place to get the valve
adjustment tools? Or wouldn't I really need them?
Supposedly it can be done without, but it's rather painful. I made
my own out
'51 VW 1100cc engine for me -- cold and stopped.
The only valves I've adjusted while the engine was running were new
hydraulic tappets on a Chevy or Ford - can't remember which - you
turned till they stopped rattling.
On 3/17/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Who learned valve adjustment
I've never bothered to get and bend a set of wrenches - I just use
straight ones. Probably takes longer to mess around and get things
lined up so you can use them, but it can be done.
The feel part of using a feeler gauge is to have some resistance when
pulling the gauge through the gap, but not
OK, so how would one know when one needs to use a reamer?
OK Don wrote:
I don't remember what the dowel size was, and I only needed to use it
once, on one glow plug. It was what I found lying around the fit. Most
of the time you don't need it.
On 3/17/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Levi Smith wrote:
OK, so how would one know when one needs to use a reamer?
If the old plug was stubborn about coming out (you had to wiggle it)
then a reamer would be desirable.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor
] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge, etc.
OK, so I haven't yet decided on whether I'm going to attempt the valve
adjustment on my 83' 300D myself or hope I can find someone who knows
what they're doing. If I decide to go that route, it sounds further
complicated since from what
Since the valve adjustment job is fairly easy but a PITA, why not adust the
valves a bit looser than specs, i.e. .005/.015 instead of .003/.013.
This would throw the timing off a hair, open a little later and close a bit
sooner. But will it be significant enough to notice?
The benefit being longer
Hans:
If you use good oil (synthetic is best) you will find that you don't
need to do much adjustment. Set to specs, the difference in
performance can be noticeable.
Peter
Hans Neureiter wrote:
Since the valve adjustment job is fairly easy but a PITA, why not adust the
valves a bit looser than specs, i.e. .005/.015 instead of .003/.013.
This would throw the timing off a hair, open a little later and close a bit
sooner. But will it be significant enough to notice?
Reduced cam follower wear? Only reason I can think of --
It's been reported (rather frequently) that the use of Mobil synthetics
will reduce the need for valve adjustment (but I don't know why that
might be). I KNOW it reduces timing chain wear (I've measured that) by
about half and I
Three things, really, I would guess -- reduced wear on cam follower and
adjuster nut (also reduced wear on the cam lobe, but that won't affect
clearance), reduced wear on guides (and hence better seating and
reduced wear on seat), and less ash in the combustion chamber since
there is less
OK Don wrote:
Reduced cam follower wear? Only reason I can think of --
It's been reported (rather frequently) that the use of Mobil synthetics
will reduce the need for valve adjustment (but I don't know why that
might be). I KNOW it reduces timing chain wear (I've measured that) by
about half
Then again, I have a blow torch, but am too lazy to look for two cheap
wrenchs to bend, so I jsut use the straight ones I already have. Yes
- you have to monkey around a few minutes to findthe correct approach
for a few of the valves, but it can be done on 615, 616, and 617
engines without the
I got some cheap wrenches at Harbor Freight and heated then bent them at
2x45deg, one bend maybe an inch from the business end and another about
an inch or so above that. Whatever made them look like the expensive
German ones that cost about 50x more. They worked fine.
--R
Hans Neureiter
Hans,
I have those expensive German ones Had a moment of monetary
imprudence Want me to take some pix..
Take care,
Chuck
Phoenix, AZ
1980 300SD...
On Oct 7, 2005, at 4:24 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
I got some cheap wrenches at Harbor Freight and heated then bent
Tools, mmm I'm sure I've bookmark somewhere
http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm
On 7-Oct-05, at 4:30 PM, Chuck Landenberger wrote:
Hans,
I have those expensive German ones Had a moment of monetary
imprudence Want me to take some pix..
Take care,
Chuck
bought a set on ebay for $40. Course, i don't have a blowtorch to heat up my
own wrenches, so I think I got a good deal.
On 10/7/05, John M McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Tools, mmm I'm sure I've bookmark somewhere
http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm
On 7-Oct-05, at 4:30 PM,
2 14mm wrenches @ .99 : 1.98
blowtorch: 8-10 bucks
propane bottle: 4 bucks
wrenches for 15 dollars and you still have a blowtorch. how can you make
creme brulee without one?
isildur, who bent his own wrenches and thinks no kitchen is complete
without a blowtorch.
On Fri, 7 Oct 2005, Sunil
Have the torch and fuel, but am an idiot
Take the two wrenches I picked up at the BB auto parts bin for $0.99
to visit my BiL
Ask him to fab, since he does welding and has a good shop
After he makes them, he takes me through how to adjust valves, since he
is Uncle Sam trained Mechanic
I will tell you how to do it.
I like Lagavulin
--R
redghost wrote:
Have the torch and fuel, but am an idiot
Take the two wrenches I picked up at the BB auto parts bin for $0.99
to visit my BiL
Ask him to fab, since he does welding and has a good shop
After he makes them, he takes me
I am working on making valve adjustment wrenches for my 617.951 engine and
like to know the correct dimensions. Thanks
angle
I ? /
_
/ I
/ Height ?
===/ I 14mm Combi wrench
-L?-
--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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