Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread MG
Not really. Nice old dry heart pine with the pitch that it has is 
a lot more flammable.


Manfred

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:40:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy

And incredibly flammable.

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread MG
not if you put a layer of plywood and 2x planks on top of it to 
distribute the weight. Would make it more flammable though.


How about a layer of plastic and then 2 of concrete on top. 
Would at least seal off the moisture coming up.


Manfred

Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 10:48:28 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy

And, I think the car would sink in a bit.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread MG
There are sparks and there are SPARKS. That would have to be a 
SPARK (lightning size). Really try to light some up some 
time. See how long it takes to light up with a lighter right on 
it. If there's a spark hefty enough to light foam board up then 
I'm out of there 5 min ago because there is a lot of bad stuff 
happening that I wouldn't want to be anywhere near. Especially in 
a garage.


BTW I'm currently building a house with 9 foam walls. A mini 
torch is a nice tool to make pockets and holes in the foam with. 
It will burn but not as easy as you have been told. Blows out 
readily. It takes concentrated heat applied and moving with the 
foam as it shrinks away from the heat. Probably will light 
easiest at a corner.


Manfred

Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 09:16:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy

Yes but according to my local fire dept, foam board insulation 
should under no circumstances be used in an exposed manner as a 
simple spark can ignite it causing it to go up in flames and emit 
a dark sooty cloud of smoke. I'm basing my statement on that alone.


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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread OK Don
I agree that if you have the time to, and interest in maintaining an older
car like the 123s and 124s, etc., that's the most economical route.
However, my interests are changing from cars to aircraft, and I don't want
to be spending time working on a car that I can be spending on the
airplane(s?). Looking back, I've spent the least, both dollars and time,
maintaining the two cars we bought new - a 1974 Opel Manta, and the 1997
Plymouth van. Hence, my interest in blowing a large sum of money on a new
car. I just want it to be the last one :-)  In 20 years I'll be in my 80's,
so it will be getting time to let others drive me around :-)

The cheap basturd in me makes it real hard to pay doulbe the price for a
new MB vs a VW, and why is an E class that much better than a C class? I
see the gas engines lasting just as long as the Diesels now, and the fuel
economy is nearly the same for both with the current direct injection ga
engines.

I hate that you can't buy a Diesel 4-matic C class here!

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 12:57 AM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:

 Over 20 years the overall vehicle comes more into question than the fuel it
 uses.  If you're only driving 10,000 miles a year the fuel cost would not
 be a major concern.  Both will be available.  The world will not run out
 of oil at some moment in time.



 On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 11:43 PM, G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com wrote:

  I fully expect to be still driving one of my 300D's 20 years from now.
  In
  20 yrs. I'll be 85, just to be sure, I think I'll stockpile a second car
 up
  on blocks so when the one I'm driving fails and I'm to old and frail to
 fix
  it but can still drive, I'll take the spare  out and drive that one...
  why not?
 
  Diesel will run on a pretty wide range of fuels that don't all have to
 come
  from the system, so it's my choice. That might not work for you... or
 it
  might.  The older design with nothing computer is more resilient I
 believe,
  it's already gone for 35 years and millions of miles...
 
  For the price of a new car, I can buy a fleet of 300SD's ... keep Q in
  business, stockpile spares, make them near perfect, and use them for next
  20 yrs... so what if they don't get 50 mpg... I'm still money ahead at 30
  mpg and the older car
 
  Granted I don't have to deal with rust issues here in the west.
 
  Your mileage may vary...
 
  Grant... AZ
 
  On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 10:03 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com
  wrote:
 
   On Apr 17, 2012, at 9:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it
 for
   the
next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily
  available
in the last five years of ownership, and why?
  
  
   Both should be available, but by then diesel may be more prevalent. The
   air, railroad, and trucking industries all rely on diesel fuel (jet a
 is
   similar) and those industries are not likely to die off any time soon.
 50
   mpg + vehicles fueled by diesel are the norm in Europe and when fuel
 hits
   over $7 per gallon here in the next few years, automakers will be
 forced
  by
   public outcry to produce more efficient vehicles. Since they already
  exist
   in Europe, they will be diesels.
  
Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year?
  
   Probably not. My friend bought a 2003 new and it has about 250 k miles
 on
   it and it is pretty much used up.
  
A
current C class?
  
   Possibly, with proper maintenance. I expect an E class bluetec would
 fit
   the ticket nicely. They are not inexpensive, but quality usually isn't.
  
   Rick
   Sent from my iPhone
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Curt Raymond
With the exception of an electric (dang theres a lot of them now) I'd say just 
about ANY car on the market today could make 150-200k with minimal serious 
issues other than tinworm.

I also don't expect our fueling choices to change much from current in the next 
15-20 years...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 20:49:38 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?
Message-ID: 20120417204938.7c27af1d.diese...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:42:04 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
 the next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily
 available in the last five years of ownership, and why?

You can always make biodiesel


 Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
 current C class?

In other words, would they go 150,000 - 200,000 miles. Good question; I
don't know.


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Jim Cathey
With the exception of an electric (dang theres a lot of them now) I'd 
say just about ANY car on the market today could make 150-200k with 
minimal serious issues other than tinworm.


Computer crap-out?  That's plenty serious, likely, and it
will be _the_ 'irreplacable part' that sends most to the crusher.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Curt Raymond
Big story on NPR yesterday about the sinking price of natural gas due to ease 
of extraction what with fracking and how they'll extract nat gas to get to 
propane and such. I was reminded that there is apparently some process to turn 
natural gas into diesel fuel and made me wonder if a diesel resurgence might be 
on the horizon. Fuel America with fuel from America. Gotta figure out how to 
get CARB on board...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
I have pine floors in my garage/barn! I take most of my welding projects 
outside. Always makes me nervous.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:24 AM, MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com wrote:

Not really. Nice old dry heart pine with the pitch that it has is a lot more 
flammable.

Manfred

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:40:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy

And incredibly flammable.

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dan Penoff
I think the 150k-200k car is pretty realistic from most new vehicles today.

I have two Ford Focii (Focuses?) that are above 150k, a 2004 and a 2005.

The 2005 has nearly 165k on it, and despite needing a few minor items and being 
a little rattly, runs just fine.

The 2004, which is my car, just turned 150k and has no issues at all. Other 
than a rear wheel bearing, which I probably did, it hasn't cost me a dime other 
than for normal scheduled maintenance and tires. It is still a very solid car 
that I would get in and drive anywhere.

While there will always be beaters and lemons, I would suggest that it all 
comes down to how well cared for the vehicle is. If the owner doesn't take care 
of it, the car might not even see 100k miles.

Dan 

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:50 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 With the exception of an electric (dang theres a lot of them now) I'd say 
 just about ANY car on the market today could make 150-200k with minimal 
 serious issues other than tinworm.
 
 I also don't expect our fueling choices to change much from current in the 
 next 15-20 years...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 20:49:38 -0600
 From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?
 Message-ID: 20120417204938.7c27af1d.diese...@pisquared.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
 
 On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:42:04 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
 the next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily
 available in the last five years of ownership, and why?
 
 You can always make biodiesel
 
 
 Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
 current C class?
 
 In other words, would they go 150,000 - 200,000 miles. Good question; I
 don't know.
 
 
 Craig
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Fred Moir

Just make the bribe subtle and BIG enough, this is America after all.
Cynical? Me? nah!

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


On 4/18/2012 8:56 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Big story on NPR yesterday . Fuel America with fuel from America. Gotta 
figure out how to get CARB on board...

-Curt

   


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[MBZ] Wood gas. was: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread Gerry Archer

Speaking of heart pine, this months issue of Mother Earth has
an article about a farmer in Alabama who is running 3 pickup
trucks on wood gas.
Mother Earth News April/May 2012 pp.56
He seems to have put together the simplest wood gas system 
I've read about so far.  Unfortunately he doesn't reveal details 
of his designs; although they might come out in later editions

of Mother Earth or be for sale.
He estimates that if he had to buy wood by the cord, it would cost
him ten cents per mile to run his pickups.  At 20 mpg that would be
the equivalent of $2.00 per gallon of gas.
In areas with lots of trees, such as where we live in North Florida,
it seems like this could be a viable option for DIYers.
Gerry


- Original Message - 
From: MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com



Not really. Nice old dry heart pine with the pitch that it has is 
a lot more flammable.


Manfred

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:40:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy

And incredibly flammable.

___



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Re: [MBZ] 300D shutoff

2012-04-18 Thread andrew strasfogel
On 4/18/12, ernest breakfield erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:
 what year 300D is this?
  any chance it's an '85?


 cheers!
 e


 On 16/Apr/12 16:39, Tim C wrote:
 On Apr 15, 2012 11:49 PM, Craigdiese...@pisquared.net  wrote:
 On Sun, 15 Apr 2012 22:11:44 -0400 Tim Cbb...@crone.us  wrote:

 I finally replaced the shutoff for the 300D this afternoon.
 I presume this is a OM617 based 300D.
 Good catch, yes.  Thanks. :)

 Can disconnected vacuum cause no start, too?
 No.
 The line is connected anyway, in fact everything looks plugged up
 correctly.  Never replaced the driver foot well cover and haven't really
 regretted it... ;)

 I took the shutoff out again, and it doesn't seem to be stuck - the
 pull bar is sitting well past what it's pulling, and the stop lever
 makes it skip a touch if I pull the lever back, so I think that's
 right.
 What happens when you suck on the vacuum line to the shutoff? Does the
 lever on the side of the injection pump move down? That's what should
 happen before you try to start the engine.
 I didn't have my mityvac out this morning, but sucking against the tube I
 was able to feel the click against the lever.  I probably have the mityvac
 in the other car but I didn't want to spend all my time looking for it.

 Thanks for any tips,
 If you don't get the shutoff connected properly, I understand the engine
 can run away and you won't be able to make it stop.
 Thanks for that, I grabbed some plastic bags just in case.  Alas still no
 start this morning.

 I am starting to wonder if it is just glow, but the engine doesn't even
 stumble - I've always been able to make it catch without draining the
 battery even if I completely neglect glow, but I can't think that anything
 else would be so sudden.

 I guess the IP could have given up the ghost, but it seems to take in fuel
 if I break the line at the filter.  Or maybe my battery decided to give it
 up?  Though rotation speed sounds reasonable.

 Compression, fuel, air, exhaust, right?  Figure I'll work on it tomorrow
 until the rain starts, probably start cracking injector lines...

 Thanks,
 Tim
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Rich Thomas
Didn't the Germans do that in WW2?  The fuel part I mean, though they 
probably could have handled CARB as well.


--R

On 4/18/12 8:56 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Big story on NPR yesterday about the sinking price of natural gas due to ease 
of extraction what with fracking and how they'll extract nat gas to get to 
propane and such. I was reminded that there is apparently some process to turn 
natural gas into diesel fuel and made me wonder if a diesel resurgence might be 
on the horizon. Fuel America with fuel from America. Gotta figure out how to 
get CARB on board...

-Curt

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[MBZ] OT CL Idiot bad as stove

2012-04-18 Thread Rich Thomas

http://charleston.craigslist.org/app/2964848477.html

--R

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread G Mann
The real issue of concern is the dry heart pine doesn't emit deadly toxins
when it burns on the scale the foam does. It is worth doing some research
on just what foam does to humans when it burns.  Not all foam is the same,
so you have to be research specific but none of it emits good stuff.
Some foam emits [gasses off] nasties even without burning. The emissions,
once absorbed by humans, causes permanent harm. You can't undo it with
medicine.

I a member of another board that only deals with bus conversion to
motorhome and spray foam insulation is an obvious way to insulate the
interior to make it a home instead of a 'bus'... several guys have really
harmed themselves with the nasty chemical emitions while installing and
working with it.. Use caution, know what you are doing.

Grant... AZ

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 4:24 AM, MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Not really. Nice old dry heart pine with the pitch that it has is a lot
 more flammable.

 Manfred

 Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:40:34 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy

 And incredibly flammable.

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Re: [MBZ] Wood gas. was: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread G Mann
A wood gas rig might work better as a trailer since you need the whole bed
of the truck to fit all the bits.  I can see it now, 100,000 cars at rush
hour on the freeways of California with wood gas rigs steaming away,
hahahhaha... a the wave of the future... talking on the cell, sipping
your latte`, checking your text msgs, and running the wood gas boiler,, all
at the same time getting to work on time... Road Rage anyone???

:))) let's just drill and pump,,, shall we? Vote early,,, vote often...

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:23 AM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.comwrote:

 Speaking of heart pine, this months issue of Mother Earth has
 an article about a farmer in Alabama who is running 3 pickup
 trucks on wood gas.
 Mother Earth News April/May 2012 pp.56
 He seems to have put together the simplest wood gas system I've read about
 so far.  Unfortunately he doesn't reveal details of his designs; although
 they might come out in later editions
 of Mother Earth or be for sale.
 He estimates that if he had to buy wood by the cord, it would cost
 him ten cents per mile to run his pickups.  At 20 mpg that would be
 the equivalent of $2.00 per gallon of gas.
 In areas with lots of trees, such as where we live in North Florida,
 it seems like this could be a viable option for DIYers.
 Gerry


 - Original Message - From: MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com


  Not really. Nice old dry heart pine with the pitch that it has is a lot
 more flammable.

 Manfred

 Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:40:34 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy

 And incredibly flammable.

 __**_



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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread G Mann
CARB is a sinking ship, let it sink and let's move forward. Grow a set
America !

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:56 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Big story on NPR yesterday about the sinking price of natural gas due to
 ease of extraction what with fracking and how they'll extract nat gas to
 get to propane and such. I was reminded that there is apparently some
 process to turn natural gas into diesel fuel and made me wonder if a diesel
 resurgence might be on the horizon. Fuel America with fuel from America.
 Gotta figure out how to get CARB on board...

 -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Wood gas. was: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread Rich Thomas

I saw that in Terminator

--R

On 4/18/12 10:59 AM, G Mann wrote:

I can see it now, 100,000 cars at rush
hour on the freeways of California with wood gas rigs steaming away,
hahahhaha... a the wave of the future...


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[MBZ] Honey, I was thinking....

2012-04-18 Thread Rich Thomas
to either buy another Benz or get into this sort of thing  
http://photos.mercurynews.com/2012/04/video-pleasanton-man-flies-a-boeing-737-in-his-garage/9029/


Which would you prefer?

--R

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Re: [MBZ] Honey, I was thinking....

2012-04-18 Thread Dan Penoff
Tough call. That is pretty cool.

Dan

On Apr 18, 2012, at 11:21 AM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 to either buy another Benz or get into this sort of thing  
 http://photos.mercurynews.com/2012/04/video-pleasanton-man-flies-a-boeing-737-in-his-garage/9029/
 
 Which would you prefer?
 
 --R
 
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Re: [MBZ] tire changing struggles

2012-04-18 Thread Randy Bennell
I agree totally. If the vehicle was on a hoist and you could lift the 
tire up and hold it at waist height, it might be fairly easy with the 
smaller car tires but doing it at ground level makes it so much more 
difficult.


Randy

On 17/04/2012 7:43 PM, Craig wrote:

On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 09:39:37 +0930 Hendrik  Fayheni...@ozemail.com.au
wrote:


Sounds like you need to hit the gym and build up the muscles a bit, 53
pounds is not a lot for a man.

In the form of a dumbell, yes, but placing a tire/wheel where it needs to
go is much more awkward and can be fraught with unforeseen difficulties.



Although when I change a truck tire, I use a bar under it to lift.

Now that's cheating!


Craig





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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread Randy Bennell
And then lift the whole garage to make up for it. The cars go in fine 
but there is not a lot of clearance to the overhead door with my F150 
Supercrew.


Randy

On 17/04/2012 9:26 PM, OK Don wrote:

Cover the existing floor with the foam boards, then pour two inches of
concrete over that . . .

On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 2:15 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net  wrote:


Well that was me.  One side has very thin foil, one side has very thin
plastic.  I could see the sheets could be quite flammable.  I have some
scraps, I should try it.

--R


On 4/17/12 3:05 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:


Rich Thomas wrote:


Interesting.  I suppose one could cover it with something to minimize
any flaming.


Like the bonded foil facing mentioned by the person who originally made
the foam sheet suggestion?

Mitch.







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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread Randy Bennell
Maybe, but is the issue with the foamboard not more of a concern with 
the gases it gives off when there is a fire? Most plastics are not 
friendly to the lungs in a fire.
Maybe wood smoke is not either, but I think I would rather take my 
chances with it than the plastic smoke.


Randy

On 18/04/2012 6:24 AM, MG wrote:
Not really. Nice old dry heart pine with the pitch that it has is a 
lot more flammable.


Manfred

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:40:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy

And incredibly flammable.




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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Randy Bennell

On 18/04/2012 8:00 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:

I think the 150k-200k car is pretty realistic from most new vehicles today.

I have two Ford Focii (Focuses?) that are above 150k, a 2004 and a 2005.

The 2005 has nearly 165k on it, and despite needing a few minor items and being 
a little rattly, runs just fine.

The 2004, which is my car, just turned 150k and has no issues at all. Other 
than a rear wheel bearing, which I probably did, it hasn't cost me a dime other 
than for normal scheduled maintenance and tires. It is still a very solid car 
that I would get in and drive anywhere.

While there will always be beaters and lemons, I would suggest that it all 
comes down to how well cared for the vehicle is. If the owner doesn't take care 
of it, the car might not even see 100k miles.

Dan




I suggest it also depends to a great extent, on how hard one drives it. 
I am not suggesting that one must baby a vehicle all of the time, but I 
do see people driving who, to me at least, appear to be abusing their 
vehicles.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread rogerhga
Guys, 
I've been preaching this for years. During WWII the Germans needed a source for 
diesel and couldn't get oil so they created diesel from natural gas. This was 
lost after the war and everyone could once again get oil. Then several years 
ago (6-10) one of the colleges on the Left Coast ran a project to revive this 
method of creating diesel. From the last I read, they got it down to a 4-step 
process. If I remember correctly, they envisioned portable conversion plants 
for remote areas to convert it and then truck to existing distribution 
lines/pipelines. Their final description was that diesel from natural gas was 
just as clean as natural gas (0 emissions), provided better power and yielded 
better mileage than oil based diesel. And that we already have a pipeline 
distribution system and diesel tanks and pumps at the gas stations, so no need 
to create a whole new network with the time needed and the additional costs. 
I think this process would be great for our country and get us off of 
dependence on foreign oil. Just some additional info to add to the discussion. 
Best Wishes, 

Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com (new) 
www.rubylane.com/shops/sna (antique) 

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Re: [MBZ] Honey, I was thinking....

2012-04-18 Thread OK Don
I'd rather put the effort into the real thing (and I am) --

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wittman_Tailwind

and this will be next:

http://www.doubleeagleairplane.com/

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 10:21 AM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 to either buy another Benz or get into this sort of thing
 http://photos.mercurynews.com/**2012/04/video-pleasanton-man-**
 flies-a-boeing-737-in-his-**garage/9029/http://photos.mercurynews.com/2012/04/video-pleasanton-man-flies-a-boeing-737-in-his-garage/9029/

 Which would you prefer?

 --R

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2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Randy Bennell

I think I want a diesel truck.
I worry that I might be hard on it in the winter with short runs but I 
would really like to have one in the summer for the highway runs to the 
lake.


So, educate me if you can.

I think I want the Dodge with the Cummins. I know I don't want the Ford. 
I am not sure about a GM product.


The Cummins seems to be the best of the lot.

But, the new ones are big. The earlier one made better mileage did it not?

How new could I get without being in the new version? Early 2000's?

What do I not want?

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread OK Don
Which is why I'm leaning towards a new one - I know what I do to them, how
I maintained them, etc. That reduces the work needing to be done during the
cars lifetime. It is a consumable item, not an investment, but they're
priced like investments! My observations of other's cars has been that the
ordinary cars (yes, my MB bigotry is showing) have good drive trains for
the most part, but the bodies fall apart starting around 100k miles.

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 10:51 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 On 18/04/2012 8:00 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:

 I think the 150k-200k car is pretty realistic from most new vehicles
 today.

 I have two Ford Focii (Focuses?) that are above 150k, a 2004 and a 2005.

 The 2005 has nearly 165k on it, and despite needing a few minor items and
 being a little rattly, runs just fine.

 The 2004, which is my car, just turned 150k and has no issues at all.
 Other than a rear wheel bearing, which I probably did, it hasn't cost me a
 dime other than for normal scheduled maintenance and tires. It is still a
 very solid car that I would get in and drive anywhere.

 While there will always be beaters and lemons, I would suggest that it
 all comes down to how well cared for the vehicle is. If the owner doesn't
 take care of it, the car might not even see 100k miles.

 Dan



 I suggest it also depends to a great extent, on how hard one drives it. I
 am not suggesting that one must baby a vehicle all of the time, but I do
 see people driving who, to me at least, appear to be abusing their vehicles.

 Randy


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2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread OK Don
Yes, we should be doing this - a surplus of one resource, and a need for
another - convert the gas to Diesel.
However, the companies that will be doing this (unless the government
nationalizes it) will be selling to the highest bidder - likely China,
India, Brazel, etc. THERE IS NO US OIL - get over it. It's owned, produced,
distributed, and sold by International corporations who have NO national
interest.

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:05 AM, roger...@comcast.net wrote:

 Guys,
 I've been preaching this for years. During WWII the Germans needed a
 source for diesel and couldn't get oil so they created diesel from natural
 gas. This was lost after the war and everyone could once again get oil.
 Then several years ago (6-10) one of the colleges on the Left Coast ran a
 project to revive this method of creating diesel. From the last I read,
 they got it down to a 4-step process. If I remember correctly, they
 envisioned portable conversion plants for remote areas to convert it and
 then truck to existing distribution lines/pipelines. Their final
 description was that diesel from natural gas was just as clean as natural
 gas (0 emissions), provided better power and yielded better mileage than
 oil based diesel. And that we already have a pipeline distribution system
 and diesel tanks and pumps at the gas stations, so no need to create a
 whole new network with the time needed and the additional costs.
 I think this process would be great for our country and get us off of
 dependence on foreign oil. Just some additional info to add to the
 discussion.
 Best Wishes,

 Roger Hale
 Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
 Monroe, Ga.
 770-267-0850
 www.dinnerwareclassics.com (new)
 www.rubylane.com/shops/sna (antique)

 ___
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Tire disaster

2012-04-18 Thread David Bruckmann
These are for W108, W115 and R107. I always install Michelin 205/70/14, which 
has roughly the same diameter (645mm) as the original 185HR14 (650mm) tires. I 
wish the MXV4 were still available in that size. They wore out very quickly, 
but what a great tire. Unfortunately they are only available in gangsta sizes 
now.

Every car I've acquired with non-Michelin tires has had endless balancing, 
thrown belt, wobble, etc problems. This has included Conti, Yokohama and 
Goodyear tires at various points in time. It mystifies me why someone would put 
up with all of that to save ten or twenty dollars a tire.

Looks like the Defender is now the replacement for the Harmony. My goal is 
comfort and quietness, and I'm suspicious that they've compromised on comfort 
for other things. I couldn't care less about wear ratings or fuel efficiency 
(as though tires are going to help a 280SEL 4.5 save any gas!).

I'm also looking for a set of 180HR15 Michelin XAS tires for my Citroen DS. 
Apart from Coker in the US and Longstone in the UK, is there another source for 
vintage tires in the US?

D.

Craig wrote:
So what model car do you want to use it on?


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Re: [MBZ] 300D shutoff

2012-04-18 Thread Tim C
On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 9:39 AM, andrew strasfogel
astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:
 On 4/18/12, ernest breakfield erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:
 what year 300D is this?
      any chance it's an '85?

'77.

My son observed that there was a little white smoke coming out the
back, so I started into upgrading the glow plugs yesterday - maybe it
is just a coincidence.  I let son crank for a few seconds, it is
definitely popping out unburned fuel - but it's not a big cloud of
smoke just small pops at three or four per second.

I did notice some interesting things about the internals of the IP,
I'm curious if they are normal:

1) Moving the action (I'll call it the internal bar since I don't
know the proper name) inside the IP doesn't make the external lever
move.  However, pulling and pushing the external lever does move the
internal bar back and forth.
2) There is a hole, as if for a spring, on the near side of the
internal bar.  Obviously there is no spring or other connection,
should there be?  This is opposite where the stop lever pulls.

Loren, not sure about the rack/rack cover.  Is there a job in the
manual that would have this in it?  Or if you can roughly direct me to
which cover is the rack cover I'd appreciate it. :)

Almost everything I did yesterday was with the vacuum to the stop
lever disconnected and the line plugged, and the piece looks the same
as the old one, so I don't think it's the part itself - now I'm
looking for something else I broke / knocked loose.

Thanks,
-Tim
wouldn't be having this problem if he'd kept to his only one broken
car at a time rule

 On 16/Apr/12 16:39, Tim C wrote:
 On Apr 15, 2012 11:49 PM, Craigdiese...@pisquared.net  wrote:
 On Sun, 15 Apr 2012 22:11:44 -0400 Tim Cbb...@crone.us  wrote:

 I finally replaced the shutoff for the 300D this afternoon.
 I presume this is a OM617 based 300D.
 Good catch, yes.  Thanks. :)

 Can disconnected vacuum cause no start, too?
 No.
 The line is connected anyway, in fact everything looks plugged up
 correctly.  Never replaced the driver foot well cover and haven't really
 regretted it... ;)

 I took the shutoff out again, and it doesn't seem to be stuck - the
 pull bar is sitting well past what it's pulling, and the stop lever
 makes it skip a touch if I pull the lever back, so I think that's
 right.
 What happens when you suck on the vacuum line to the shutoff? Does the
 lever on the side of the injection pump move down? That's what should
 happen before you try to start the engine.
 I didn't have my mityvac out this morning, but sucking against the tube I
 was able to feel the click against the lever.  I probably have the mityvac
 in the other car but I didn't want to spend all my time looking for it.

 Thanks for any tips,
 If you don't get the shutoff connected properly, I understand the engine
 can run away and you won't be able to make it stop.
 Thanks for that, I grabbed some plastic bags just in case.  Alas still no
 start this morning.

 I am starting to wonder if it is just glow, but the engine doesn't even
 stumble - I've always been able to make it catch without draining the
 battery even if I completely neglect glow, but I can't think that anything
 else would be so sudden.

 I guess the IP could have given up the ghost, but it seems to take in fuel
 if I break the line at the filter.  Or maybe my battery decided to give it
 up?  Though rotation speed sounds reasonable.

 Compression, fuel, air, exhaust, right?  Figure I'll work on it tomorrow
 until the rain starts, probably start cracking injector lines...

 Thanks,
 Tim
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dan Penoff
I can't say I baby my car, but it's pretty tough to drive a 4 cylinder car 
hard, I think.

Dan

On Apr 18, 2012, at 11:51 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 On 18/04/2012 8:00 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:
 I think the 150k-200k car is pretty realistic from most new vehicles today.
 
 I have two Ford Focii (Focuses?) that are above 150k, a 2004 and a 2005.
 
 The 2005 has nearly 165k on it, and despite needing a few minor items and 
 being a little rattly, runs just fine.
 
 The 2004, which is my car, just turned 150k and has no issues at all. Other 
 than a rear wheel bearing, which I probably did, it hasn't cost me a dime 
 other than for normal scheduled maintenance and tires. It is still a very 
 solid car that I would get in and drive anywhere.
 
 While there will always be beaters and lemons, I would suggest that it all 
 comes down to how well cared for the vehicle is. If the owner doesn't take 
 care of it, the car might not even see 100k miles.
 
 Dan
 
 
 
 I suggest it also depends to a great extent, on how hard one drives it. I am 
 not suggesting that one must baby a vehicle all of the time, but I do see 
 people driving who, to me at least, appear to be abusing their vehicles.
 
 Randy
 
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Tim C
On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 12:16 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
 I think I want a diesel truck.
 I worry that I might be hard on it in the winter with short runs but I would
 really like to have one in the summer for the highway runs to the lake.

We went through the same with the van... though in the end cost won
out. (Here, used, you can buy two nearly-new gas passenger vans for
the price of one well-used diesel.) Being as how you are in the far
north you might consider buying a small gas truck [Toyota or whatever]
and then renting a big diesel in the summer.

Anyway, I found that the best source for model / year information on
these normal vehicle lines was wikipedia.  I still had to hoof it
for reliability data but the generations, changes in standard
equipment, and options are clearly delineated:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodge_Ram

Best,
-Tim

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Curt Raymond
It doesn't seem to happen though, at least not on lower end vehicles that I 
experience. My '96 Dakota had 222,000 when the tin worm got so bad I got rid of 
it. Dad's got a Jeep Liberty that has 160,000 on it now and I have to admit has 
been a pretty good vehicle although I still don't like it.
My Ranger only has 80,000 but its going on 9 years old now...

We work our vehicles too, Dad's Jeep goes offroad every single day pretty much. 
He's a landfill manager and makes the trek around the landfill every morning at 
least. The interior of his jeep is disgusting, his landfill is full of ash from 
a trash to energy plant, the ash gets everywhere.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 05:53:45 -0700
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?
Message-ID: 888a737b-8955-11e1-98a0-000502d9a...@windwireless.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 With the exception of an electric (dang theres a lot of them now) I'd 
 say just about ANY car on the market today could make 150-200k with 
 minimal serious issues other than tinworm.

Computer crap-out?  That's plenty serious, likely, and it
will be _the_ 'irreplacable part' that sends most to the crusher.

-- Jim

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Curt Raymond
Sure, but I'd still argue any car of today even with ZERO maintenance (just put 
in gas and drive) would last 50-60k where one from 40 years ago MIGHT have made 
10k.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 09:00:00 -0400
From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?
Message-ID: 7d6b5c1b-5a04-428a-abd1-0d4762c9b...@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii


While there will always be beaters and lemons, I would suggest that it all 
comes down to how well cared for the vehicle is. If the owner doesn't take care 
of it, the car might not even see 100k miles.

Dan 

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Re: [MBZ] Wood gas

2012-04-18 Thread Curt Raymond
I looked into this a couple years ago to run a generator at camp since we've 
got lots of wood and it seems VERY complicated. The other issue is how much 
wood you can haul along on your trip. Wood is not energy dense compared to oil.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 09:23:24 -0400
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Wood gas. was: abuse of cars 2ejuremy
Message-ID: 444B79F8C0524DAB9943E3FB9EEBA71A@PC466116028214
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=response

Speaking of heart pine, this months issue of Mother Earth has
an article about a farmer in Alabama who is running 3 pickup
trucks on wood gas.
Mother Earth News April/May 2012 pp.56
He seems to have put together the simplest wood gas system 
I've read about so far.  Unfortunately he doesn't reveal details 
of his designs; although they might come out in later editions
of Mother Earth or be for sale.
He estimates that if he had to buy wood by the cord, it would cost
him ten cents per mile to run his pickups.  At 20 mpg that would be
the equivalent of $2.00 per gallon of gas.
In areas with lots of trees, such as where we live in North Florida,
it seems like this could be a viable option for DIYers.
Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread Curt Raymond
I understand that but I think in the end I'd just prefer to not have the thing 
burn down...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 10:43:39 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy
Message-ID: 4f8ee12b.1040...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Maybe, but is the issue with the foamboard not more of a concern with 
the gases it gives off when there is a fire? Most plastics are not 
friendly to the lungs in a fire.
Maybe wood smoke is not either, but I think I would rather take my 
chances with it than the plastic smoke.

Randy

On 18/04/2012 6:24 AM, MG wrote:
 Not really. Nice old dry heart pine with the pitch that it has is a 
 lot more flammable.

 Manfred

 Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:40:34 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy

 And incredibly flammable.

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Fmiser
 OK Don wrote:

 If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to
 keep it for the next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think
 would be more readily available in the last five years of
 ownership, and why?

Diesel is used in planes, train, ships, trucks, and tractors.
In my opinion, diesel will be available so long as fuel is
available.  Gasoline is used by automobiles and lawnmowers -
thus is quite subject to fads.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Curt Raymond
Easy, you don't want a diesel trunk...

You don't drive enough, you don't tow enough, you don't work a truck hard 
enough.

You're not going to be happy with the mileage, you're not going to be happy 
with the maintenance, you're not going to be happy with the cold starts, and 
you're not going to like how a 3/4 ton truck rides vs your 1/2 ton Ford.

I want a diesel truck too but have to recognize it would be totally wrong for 
me.

If you really want a NEW truck go get one with a big v8 gasser, it'll be more 
fun and realistically the fuel economy is a small portion of the overall cost 
of ownership.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 11:16:16 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel or Gas?
Message-ID: 4f8ee8d0.10...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I think I want a diesel truck.
I worry that I might be hard on it in the winter with short runs but I 
would really like to have one in the summer for the highway runs to the 
lake.

So, educate me if you can.

I think I want the Dodge with the Cummins. I know I don't want the Ford. 
I am not sure about a GM product.

The Cummins seems to be the best of the lot.

But, the new ones are big. The earlier one made better mileage did it not?

How new could I get without being in the new version? Early 2000's?

What do I not want?

Randy 

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Curt Raymond
Incorrect measurement, bodies start to fall apart at 8-10 YEARS. Miles makes no 
difference to the body.

Even then how you take care of it will make more difference. Undercoat with 
used motor oil and the vehicle will last much longer.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 11:16:58 -0500
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?
Message-ID:
canzcij8gfzebydna9zx50oras_jrccn76miouwdakix_mro...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Which is why I'm leaning towards a new one - I know what I do to them, how
I maintained them, etc. That reduces the work needing to be done during the
cars lifetime. It is a consumable item, not an investment, but they're
priced like investments! My observations of other's cars has been that the
ordinary cars (yes, my MB bigotry is showing) have good drive trains for
the most part, but the bodies fall apart starting around 100k miles.

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dave Walton
If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel - don't. 

You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels unless 
you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable the purge 
cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do just that are 
available for the V-10 Touareg.

As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the 
exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for any 
make and models - please let me know.

Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip into 
the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.

I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an alternate 
fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle. 

Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you can run 
5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle after the 
warranty expires. 

-Dave Walton

On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for the
 next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
 in the last five years of ownership, and why?
 
 Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
 current C class?
 
 -- 
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] OM603 Turbo Install vs. Head Install

2012-04-18 Thread Max Dillon
OK, any special tricks or tips to getting the head/manifold to mate with the 
turbo/block?  I do have a nice lift.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 334k miles (Off with the head!)
'95 E300 292k miles (daily driving duties)
'73 Balboa 20 (High  dry until the head is back on)
Charleston SC





From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, April 17, 2012 10:28:23 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Turbo Install vs. Head Install

That's how I did it also --

On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 2:23 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 That's how I do it

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 17, 2012, at 1:41 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
 wrote:

  Dieselvolk,
 
  
 
  I'm working on installing the new head on my '87 wagon.  Has anyone
 ever
  installed the turbo first, and then lowered the head into place?  The
 angle
  of the junction between turbo and exhaust manifold is working against me,
  but leaving things loose may allow enough slack to overcome that.
 
 

 --

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Brian Toscano
Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
 don't.

 You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
 unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable
 the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do
 just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.

 As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
 exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for
 any make and models - please let me know.

 Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip
 into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.

 I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
 alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.

 Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
 can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle
 after the warranty expires.

 -Dave Walton

 On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

  If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
 the
  next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
  in the last five years of ownership, and why?
 
  Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
  current C class?
 
  --
  OK Don
  2001 ML320
  1992 300D 2.5T
  1990 300D 2.5T
  1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Wood gas

2012-04-18 Thread Gerry Archer
If you get a chance, buy the magazine or look it up on the 'net next month 
since it
might be there by then.  This farmer seems to have simplified the whole 
process.

The earlier versions turned me off too considering their complexity.
He describes a fairly long trip he made and apparently took the necessary 
wood along.
There is so much data in this article, I don't have time to type it all out. 
He did tell about
driving 2000 miles to the Bonneville Salt Flats and winning the wood gas 
speed trials.
The whole article sounds too good to be true, but he names a professor at 
Auburn Univ
who did a lot of testing on his rigs.  You probably have a lot of wood 
available at your
camp, so a project like this might be worthwhile.  For me, the critical 
point would be when

and if the plans become available.

Gerry

From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
I looked into this a couple years ago to run a generator at camp since 
we've got lots of wood and it seems VERY complicated. The other issue is 
how much wood you can haul along on your trip. Wood is not energy dense 
compared to oil.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 09:23:24 -0400
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Wood gas. was: abuse of cars 2ejuremy
Message-ID: 444B79F8C0524DAB9943E3FB9EEBA71A@PC466116028214
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
   reply-type=response

Speaking of heart pine, this months issue of Mother Earth has
an article about a farmer in Alabama who is running 3 pickup
trucks on wood gas.
Mother Earth News April/May 2012 pp.56
He seems to have put together the simplest wood gas system
I've read about so far.  Unfortunately he doesn't reveal details
of his designs; although they might come out in later editions
of Mother Earth or be for sale.
He estimates that if he had to buy wood by the cord, it would cost
him ten cents per mile to run his pickups.  At 20 mpg that would be
the equivalent of $2.00 per gallon of gas.
In areas with lots of trees, such as where we live in North Florida,
it seems like this could be a viable option for DIYers.
Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] Happy day, installing head on wagon

2012-04-18 Thread Max Dillon
Dieselvolk,

Yesterday I started with checking the valve guide work done by a local  shop, 
to 
see how much radial play between valve stem and new guides.   Removed the 
keepers and spring from one valve, pulled it out a short  distance (didn't want 
to mess up the new seals), and smiled.  It needed  pressure to move the normal 
travel path (gravity alone would never move  that valve!) and I could detect no 
radial play by finger.  I decided to  skip the long set-up for the dial 
indicator, called it good, and put the  spring and keeper back in place.

I moved on to installing the exhaust manifold onto the head (30 Nm), and also  
installed the turbo onto the engine block.  I'd removed the alternator  bracket 
in order to remove the timing case, and that bracket also is  used for the 
turbo 
support.  Bracket hadn't been cleaned yet (still  caked with oil/dust from the 
front crank seal leak), I spent about an  hour with Simple Green and various 
brushes getting the majority of the  gunk off, then rinsed it off with water to 
keep the acid in the SG from  attacking the aluminum.  Finished with brake 
cleaner, and then also  rinsed off the alternator side of the block with brake 
cleaner (need to  set up the box fan for that, the nose of car at inside end of 
the garage  stall and I need all the brain cells I have left).  Ok, where are 
all  the nuts and bolts?  The five cap bolts for the bracket to block were in  
their places on the block, but it took a bit of digging to find the  hex-key 
cap 
bolts for the turbo support bracket to be mounted onto the  bracket.

Thought about cleaning some of the oily mess off the turbo, but decided  to 
leave that alone, too much risk getting junk inside the turbo.   Cleaned out 
the 
dust/dirt that had managed to migrate into the intake  side of the turbo, then 
lowered that into place from above, and it  rested nicely in the tension 
between 
the exhaust pipe and the intake  connection from the air cleaner.  Realized I 
could not find the three  nuts for the exhaust connection to the turbo, mental 
note to order from  Rusty.  Spent about 30 long minutes to get the oil feed 
line 
screwed back into  the side of the block. Nice access from above, would have 
been a real  bear if the turbo were still attached to the exhaust manifold/head 
which  block access from the top.  Even with clear access, I've got the front  
tires up on planks for easier access under the front of the car, and at  my 
average stature, it's a bit hard on the knees and back to reach all  the way to 
the back right corner of the block to attach the oil feed.   Would have been 
easier to remove the oil feed line from the top of the  turbo and make the 
block 
connection first and then the top connection,  but that is another gasket to 
order or make, and I don't have any gasket  material.  RTV instead of a gasket? 
 
(just kidding Loren).

I left the turbo oil drain pipe off, I do need a new gasket for that  
connection, it was not included in the head gasket kit from Rusty.  Mental 
addition to the shopping list.

I know I've asked before, I neglected to save the answer where I can  find it 
now.  What is the preferred lubricant for the big green o-rings  used 
throughout 
the intake system?  There two o-rings for a short  connection from turbo to the 
EGR mixing housing, and two for similar  connection from mixing housing to the 
charge air pipe (aka cross-over  pipe).

The gasket from exhaust manifold to the turbo is another that I need.   
Original 
is metal, similar in construction to the gasket for the exhaust  manifold to 
head seal.  I don't see it in the EPC yet...

After I'd gotten as far as I could with that, I loosened most of the  bolts 
hold 
the oil pan to the block, so that the front of the oil pan  can drop a couple 
millimeters to allow the timing case top surface to be  perfectly flush when 
the 
head is installed.

Time for the BIG torque!!  Rusty sent me the 1st version of the bolt  which 
holds the hub to the front of the crankshaft, which requires a 300  Nm torque.  
My wrench only goes to 200 Nm, so I had asked my  independent mechanic Hans 
about this several months ago.  He recommended  just putting the breaker bar on 
it and calling it good.  I could have  gotten fancy with some math, a scale, a 
jack and a long extension on the  breaker bar, but the angles just don't work 
too well.  I used my torque  wrench to hit 200 Nm, then put on the breaker bar 
and extension and  leaned into to for another 5 or 10 degrees of rotation, and 
called it  good enough.  Next time I take the car in for service where they 
have 
a  torque wrench that reaches 300 Nm, I'll have them check my work.

I had to mount the pointer for the crankshaft vibration damper, it had  been 
removed to clean the timing chain case cover, so I set up the dial  indicator 
to 
put the crank at TDC and removed the crankshaft lock.  Dug  around and found 
the 
pointer and the bolt to mount it and put it in  place 

Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread G Mann
Not paying your fair share are you?? ... I'm ridden with guilt... yours,
not mine, that is..

If you buy biodiesel at any pump as blended fuel tax has been paid, and you
will pay that tax. If you make your own, be sure to report yourself and
spend the next 5 lifetimes being investigated by every 3 letter agency
known to government, including Department of Defense.

Save the Whales has come to mean, protect those who shop at WalMart... or
in Congress...  Frankly Scarlet... I don't give a damn if taxes are paid
or not.

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:30 AM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:

 Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.


 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
  don't.
 
  You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
  unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to
 disable
  the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to
 do
  just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.
 
  As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
  exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case -
 for
  any make and models - please let me know.
 
  Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings,
 drip
  into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.
 
  I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
  alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.
 
  Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
  can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the
 vehicle
  after the warranty expires.
 
  -Dave Walton
 
  On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
  the
   next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily
 available
   in the last five years of ownership, and why?
  
   Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
   current C class?
  
   --
   OK Don
   2001 ML320
   1992 300D 2.5T
   1990 300D 2.5T
   1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
   ___
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   For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
   To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
   http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Well technically you are paying sales tax on the purchase of the materials used 
to make BD- vegetable oil, methanol and lye.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
don't.

You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable
the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do
just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.

As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for
any make and models - please let me know.

Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip
into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.

I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.

Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle
after the warranty expires.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
the
next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
in the last five years of ownership, and why?

Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
current C class?

--
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Randy Bennell

Yeah, I know  But, I like diesels.

Randy


On 18/04/2012 12:07 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Easy, you don't want a diesel truck...

You don't drive enough, you don't tow enough, you don't work a truck hard 
enough.

You're not going to be happy with the mileage, you're not going to be happy 
with the maintenance, you're not going to be happy with the cold starts, and 
you're not going to like how a 3/4 ton truck rides vs your 1/2 ton Ford.

I want a diesel truck too but have to recognize it would be totally wrong for 
me.

If you really want a NEW truck go get one with a big v8 gasser, it'll be more 
fun and realistically the fuel economy is a small portion of the overall cost 
of ownership.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 11:16:16 -0500
From: Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel or Gas?
Message-ID:4f8ee8d0.10...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I think I want a diesel truck.
I worry that I might be hard on it in the winter with short runs but I
would really like to have one in the summer for the highway runs to the
lake.

So, educate me if you can.

I think I want the Dodge with the Cummins. I know I don't want the Ford.
I am not sure about a GM product.

The Cummins seems to be the best of the lot.

But, the new ones are big. The earlier one made better mileage did it not?

How new could I get without being in the new version? Early 2000's?

What do I not want?

Randy

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[MBZ] Fuel Pump Not Delivering - Progress Report

2012-04-18 Thread Jerry Herrman
 to detect by such 
an imprecise method. This suggests to me that the bolt holding on the 
eccentric has come loose. and that the pin/dowel is no longer holding the 
eccentric in place.It explains just about everything I know about this 
situation.

So now I have the following questions:
I don't expect individuals on this forum necessarily to know the answers, but 
if anyone does happen to know, please respond.

1. If I start at TDC, is there a position I could rotate the crank to that 
would put the eccentric at its closest position to the hole? (right now I 
have the crank at TDC, but the cam sprocket and distributor are off by 180)
2. Am I correct to conclude that the bolt is loose and the dowel/pin is not 
holding the eccentric in place?. Do my observations make sense?
3. How far up and down does the eccentric move? That is, how much does it 
move the FP arm? (not very much it would appear)
4. Could the eccentric be held on only by the dowel/pin and its the bolt 
that has come out?
5. Is the bolt holding the eccentric on also holding the cam sprocket on? Is 
this looseness a concern for the cam sprocket?
6. What does this say about the safety of now starting the engine using a 
temporary electric fuel pump?
(My concern was that the engine may be out of time and I could do damage 
by having the camshaft out of synch with the crankshaft)
6a. Could the bolt come out farther and cause damage?
6b. If the fuel pump is reinstalled, and the engine run with it installed 
what risk am I taking, given that the eccentric is loose?
6c. Could the engine run indefinitely with the loose eccentric and the pump 
installed? How about with the pump not installed and a plate over the 
opening?
I guess what I'm asking here is if that now loose eccentric and bolt 
could become looser, or even come off and get caught in the sprockets, or 
allow the cam sprocket to come loose.
7. Can you think of a way to get more traction with my wood dowel, so I can 
try to turn the eccentric farther?
8. Is there an absolute, positive way of knowing if this is an interference 
engine? I have several opinions and they don't agree. 
(example:  The engine isn't an interference fit, the pistons are valve 
relieved.
(example: All Ford FE engines are interference engines. Even with a large 
dish in the piston. If the cam came out of timing the engine would have bent 
valves and probably frozen and not rotate.


Jerry
82 240D
72 Ford F250



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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Pump Not Delivering - Progress Report

2012-04-18 Thread Randy Bennell
Let me preface this with the comment that I have never had a 390 cid 
engine apart - so take this for what it is worth.


Howeve, I rebuilt a 302 Ford a few years back.

The fuel pump eccentric bolted onto the front of the cam was a 2 part 
thing. There was an inner part and an outer part such that it acted like 
a big bearing. There are also 1 piece units that do not do that. I got 
one of those but did not end up using it.
So, the fact that you can move something with the dowel does not mean it 
is not working correctly if it is the first style that I mentioned above.


You might try holding the dowel against the eccentric and turning the 
engine over to see if the dowel moves. That might tell you that the 
eccentric is ok.

Does the arm on the old pump look worn?
Are you sure the new pump is the correct pump?

I think the only real way to know for sure will be to pull the timing 
chain cover. It would be a fine opportunity to throw in a chain set and 
ought not to be all that expensive.

I should think in a truck it wouldn't be too tough to do it in place.

Randy

On 18/04/2012 5:43 PM, Jerry Herrman wrote:

Jerry Herrman originally wrote:
:
Anyone out there with experience as an engine mechanic involving an older Ford 
390 engine, specifically the fuel pump?

This is on a '72 F250 I'm gonna get ready to sell. Last week when it would not 
start, I disconnected the fuel line where it enters the carburetor and found 
that the (mechanical) fuel pump was not delivering gasoline to the carburetor. 
Knowing that the fuel pump has been in there since at least 1978 when I bought 
it, and possibly since new in 1972, I was suspicious that it had failed. I 
bought a new (Carter) at Pep Boys and removed the old one (which involved 
disconnecting the power steering assembly and moving it aside). I then 
installed the new fuel pump and was disappointed to find that it did not move 
the fuel either. I then attached a fuel line to a container of gas and turned 
over the engine with the starter. The new fuel pump would not suck up the gas.

I then removed the new pump and tested it by running the fuel line into the 
container and moving the lever by hand. It sucked up the fuel readily.

Then I hooked up the old pump to the fuel line and tested it by hand. Lo and 
behold, it also sucked up the fuel just fine. This told me that my old pump was 
still working. I reinstalled the old pump and hooked it up to the container. It 
would not suck it up.

So, to review, both new and old (40 years old!) fuel pumps work fine when hand 
operated, and neither works when installed on the car.

Enters now the possibility that I did not install the new pump correctly. 
However, if that is the case, why was the old pump not working before I removed 
it?
By process of elimination, I am left with the unhappy prospect that the lever 
on each pump is not being moved up and down by the cam lobe. So I tried to peek 
inside that hole and noticed that there is what appears to be a chain inside, 
and it appears to be kinda loose, and I can move it by poking it with a 
screwdriver. When I crank the engine, the chain seems to move. I cannot see 
straight inside, but by putting in a screwdriver, I can feel what may be an 
eccentric cam, though I can't be sure. Looks like a huge job to remove the 
cover plate over this area to see what is going on. Hence my appeal to someone 
familiar with this area of this engine.
Could that eccentric cam not be moving? If so, if I run the engine, will I do 
more damage?
By the way, last time I ran the engine, it was just fine. Can't understand why, 
with the vehicle just sitting there, the cam would stop moving.

I plan to bypass the mechanical fuel pump and install an electric pump, but I 
worry that something is wrong inside the engine. What do you think?
UPDATE
I hooked up an electric fuel pump temporarily. The gas flowed just fine. This 
eliminates a blockage as the cause of the fuel pump not delivering fuel. I 
remain baffled that the old and new pump work when operated manually off the 
engine, but not when bolted in place.
Should I be concerned that there is a defect or broken part in the timing case 
part of the engine, and that by strarting the engine I will do more damage?
TODAY'S NEW INFORMATION April 18 2012

I finally have some specific information that can help move forward the
understanding of this situation. Today, I removed the old fuel pump from the
engine and also removed other items that were crowding that area of the
engine. First, I put to rest any concern that the pump could be put in
incorrectly. After trial and error, I determined that there is no way to put
that fuel pump into that hole other than the correct way.
I then inserted a wood dowel into the hole whilst leaning down and over the
engine with a flashlight and peering in. I clearly saw the eccentric that
drives the pump handle. It was loose to the extent that I was able to turn
it a ways one way and the other with the dowel (I'm 

Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Max
OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
the
next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily
available
in the last five years of ownership, and why?


Gas.  Both will be sold, probably add natural gas to that list.  I think 
gasoline's dominance won't change, but diesel will gain some.

Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
current C class?


Any new car is capable of that.  Real question is which one would you prefer to 
drive for twenty years.  I'd take the Benz.

-Max

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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[MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Rich Thomas
OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one 
piston was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an 
alignment done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of 
slop in the steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is 
fine, I can rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response 
from the box.  It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering 
wheel, and it is really dead.


I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the 
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But 
with all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would 
like to get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then 
adjusting it would not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way 
it is is sorta the way it should be (I think not).


On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air 
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this 
one at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working 
correctly or not, should I just get a new one and replace it?


--R



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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Max
Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

Big story on NPR yesterday about the sinking price of natural gas due
to ease of extraction what with fracking and how they'll extract nat
gas to get to propane and such. I was reminded that there is apparently
some process to turn natural gas into diesel fuel and made me wonder if
a diesel resurgence might be on the horizon. Fuel America with fuel
from America. Gotta figure out how to get CARB on board...


Better plan would be convert our gas cars to run on CNG.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Allan Streib
Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net writes:

 Better plan would be convert our gas cars to run on CNG.

Except that requires huge new infrastructure in fueling stations and
delivery, not just producing the vehicles.  Same problem with
hydrogen-fueled cars.

Diesel works in the pumps and delivery systems we have now.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Brian Toscano
I was referring to the people who make their own.

In some states the fuel tax goes directly to the highway fund and that is
the only source of the state highway fund.  If you have a problem paying
fuel taxes, don't drive.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 4:56 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
 the
 next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily
 available
 in the last five years of ownership, and why?
 

 Gas.  Both will be sold, probably add natural gas to that list.  I think
 gasoline's dominance won't change, but diesel will gain some.

 Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
 current C class?
 
 
 Any new car is capable of that.  Real question is which one would you
 prefer to drive for twenty years.  I'd take the Benz.

 -Max

 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread MG
For sure that stuff is nasty. Only do the hole burning when the 
wind is blowing a bit to carry the fumes away. Sure don't want to 
breath that stuff.


Manfred

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 07:53:14 -0700
From: G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

The real issue of concern is the dry heart pine doesn't emit 
deadly toxins
when it burns on the scale the foam does. It is worth doing some 
research
on just what foam does to humans when it burns.  Not all foam is 
the same,
so you have to be research specific but none of it emits good 
stuff.
Some foam emits [gasses off] nasties even without burning. The 
emissions,
once absorbed by humans, causes permanent harm. You can't undo 
it with

medicine.

I a member of another board that only deals with bus conversion to
motorhome and spray foam insulation is an obvious way to 
insulate the
interior to make it a home instead of a 'bus'... several guys 
have really
harmed themselves with the nasty chemical emitions while 
installing and

working with it.. Use caution, know what you are doing.

Grant... AZ

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Re: [MBZ] Honey, I was thinking....

2012-04-18 Thread Max
Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

to either buy another Benz or get into this sort of thing  
http://photos.mercurynews.com/2012/04/video-pleasanton-man-flies-a-boeing-737-in-his-garage/9029/


You could rent it out to the movie production folk, or sell tickets to Boeing 
during their corporate retreat at Kiowah.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Allan Streib
Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com writes:

 Well technically you are paying sales tax on the purchase of the
 materials used to make BD- vegetable oil, methanol and lye.

But not the road tax.

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Allan Streib
Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca writes:

 I think I want the Dodge with the Cummins. I know I don't want the
 Ford. I am not sure about a GM product.

GM is an Isuzu.  Ford is their own, I think.  Cummins is... well, Cummins.


-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

I need to come out and see your new place sometime.

On 4/18/2012 7:41 AM, OK Don wrote:

I agree that if you have the time to, and interest in maintaining an older
car like the 123s and 124s, etc., that's the most economical route.
However, my interests are changing from cars to aircraft, and I don't want
to be spending time working on a car that I can be spending on the
airplane(s?). Looking back, I've spent the least, both dollars and time,
maintaining the two cars we bought new - a 1974 Opel Manta, and the 1997
Plymouth van. Hence, my interest in blowing a large sum of money on a new
car. I just want it to be the last one :-)  In 20 years I'll be in my 80's,
so it will be getting time to let others drive me around :-)

The cheap basturd in me makes it real hard to pay doulbe the price for a
new MB vs a VW, and why is an E class that much better than a C class? I
see the gas engines lasting just as long as the Diesels now, and the fuel
economy is nearly the same for both with the current direct injection ga
engines.

I hate that you can't buy a Diesel 4-matic C class here!

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 12:57 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:


Over 20 years the overall vehicle comes more into question than the fuel it
uses.  If you're only driving 10,000 miles a year the fuel cost would not
be a major concern.  Both will be available.  The world will not run out
of oil at some moment in time.



On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 11:43 PM, G Manng2ma...@gmail.com  wrote:


I fully expect to be still driving one of my 300D's 20 years from now.

  In

20 yrs. I'll be 85, just to be sure, I think I'll stockpile a second car

up

on blocks so when the one I'm driving fails and I'm to old and frail to

fix

it but can still drive, I'll take the spare  out and drive that one...
why not?

Diesel will run on a pretty wide range of fuels that don't all have to

come

from the system, so it's my choice. That might not work for you... or

it

might.  The older design with nothing computer is more resilient I

believe,

it's already gone for 35 years and millions of miles...

For the price of a new car, I can buy a fleet of 300SD's ... keep Q in
business, stockpile spares, make them near perfect, and use them for next
20 yrs... so what if they don't get 50 mpg... I'm still money ahead at 30
mpg and the older car

Granted I don't have to deal with rust issues here in the west.

Your mileage may vary...

Grant... AZ

On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 10:03 PM, Rick Knoblerickkno...@hotmail.com

wrote:
On Apr 17, 2012, at 9:42 PM, OK Donokd...@gmail.com  wrote:

If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it

for

the

next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily

available

in the last five years of ownership, and why?


Both should be available, but by then diesel may be more prevalent. The
air, railroad, and trucking industries all rely on diesel fuel (jet a

is

similar) and those industries are not likely to die off any time soon.

50

mpg + vehicles fueled by diesel are the norm in Europe and when fuel

hits

over $7 per gallon here in the next few years, automakers will be

forced

by

public outcry to produce more efficient vehicles. Since they already

exist

in Europe, they will be diesels.


Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year?

Probably not. My friend bought a 2003 new and it has about 250 k miles

on

it and it is pretty much used up.


A
current C class?

Possibly, with proper maintenance. I expect an E class bluetec would

fit

the ticket nicely. They are not inexpensive, but quality usually isn't.

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Max
OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

Yes, we should be doing this - a surplus of one resource, and a need
for
another - convert the gas to Diesel.
However, the companies that will be doing this (unless the government
nationalizes it) will be selling to the highest bidder - likely China,
India, Brazel, etc. THERE IS NO US OIL - get over it. It's owned,
produced,
distributed, and sold by International corporations who have NO
national
interest.


Yep.  International market sets the price.  Used as CNG we can avoid that, we 
just need the infrastructure and the cars.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Allan Streib
Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net writes:

 I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
 scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.

I don't think there's any harm in adjusting it slightly, to see if you
get improvement.  Just don't adjust it so far as to remove ALL the
slack.  I don't really know ho much is considered normal; my 300D has
about as much slop as yours, based on your description.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Wood gas. was: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread MG
My Grandfather ran a 2 1/2 ton truck during the war on wood gas. 
The rig and wood was on the truck bed and the truck pulled a 
trailer to carry the cargo. The helper rode in the bed and put 
wood in the burner when it was needed.


Putting the gas generator on a trailer wouldn't work very well as 
a pretty large hose is needed to connect to the intake on the 
engine. There also wouldn't be very much smoke from the generator 
in use as that is what is ingested by the engine at least while 
it is running. There may however be a bit more smoke from the 
tailpipe. I haven't had one running but I have done some looking 
into what it would take, even have some plans somewhere.


I'll vote for the drilling. If there were only some way to keep 
the companies from shipping the product out of the country I'd be 
real happy.


Manfred

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 07:59:54 -0700
From: G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wood gas. was: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

A wood gas rig might work better as a trailer since you need the 
whole bed
of the truck to fit all the bits.  I can see it now, 100,000 cars 
at rush

hour on the freeways of California with wood gas rigs steaming away,
hahahhaha... a the wave of the future... talking on the cell, 
sipping
your latte`, checking your text msgs, and running the wood gas 
boiler,, all

at the same time getting to work on time... Road Rage anyone???

:))) let's just drill and pump,,, shall we? Vote early,,, 
vote often...


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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dave Walton
Then don't buy an electric or a hybrid. Those are cheating the system too.

In fact, buying any high MPG vehicle means you are not paying your fair share 
of road tax.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

 Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.
 
 
 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
 don't.
 
 You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
 unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable
 the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do
 just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.
 
 As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
 exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for
 any make and models - please let me know.
 
 Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip
 into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.
 
 I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
 alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.
 
 Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
 can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle
 after the warranty expires.
 
 -Dave Walton
 
 On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
 the
 next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
 in the last five years of ownership, and why?
 
 Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
 current C class?
 
 --
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
True.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:09 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com writes:

Well technically you are paying sales tax on the purchase of the
materials used to make BD- vegetable oil, methanol and lye.

But not the road tax.

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Brian Toscano
I suspect that natural gas prices will rise in the future.  They won't stay
low forever.  For the longest time coal was one of the cheapest ways to
make power, but with emissions controls costing billions, and cheap natural
gas - it can be economical for new plants to use natural gas.  And that's
just one industry that can adjust to use it and eventually drive the prices
up.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:15 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, we should be doing this - a surplus of one resource, and a need
 for
 another - convert the gas to Diesel.
 However, the companies that will be doing this (unless the government
 nationalizes it) will be selling to the highest bidder - likely China,
 India, Brazel, etc. THERE IS NO US OIL - get over it. It's owned,
 produced,
 distributed, and sold by International corporations who have NO
 national
 interest.
 
 
 Yep.  International market sets the price.  Used as CNG we can avoid that,
 we just need the infrastructure and the cars.

 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
We should all buy a big suv

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 6:20 PM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

 Then don't buy an electric or a hybrid. Those are cheating the system too.
 
 In fact, buying any high MPG vehicle means you are not paying your fair share 
 of road tax.
 
 -Dave Walton
 
 On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.
 
 
 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
 don't.
 
 You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
 unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable
 the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do
 just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.
 
 As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
 exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for
 any make and models - please let me know.
 
 Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip
 into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.
 
 I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
 alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.
 
 Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
 can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle
 after the warranty expires.
 
 -Dave Walton
 
 On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
 the
 next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
 in the last five years of ownership, and why?
 
 Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
 current C class?
 
 --
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
 ___
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-18 Thread MG
I figure that if you aren't moving out by the time it gets that 
noticeable you may not make it out no matter what it is that's 
burning. With all the plastics and other man-made chemicals in 
todays houses, flashover happens a whole lot quicker then it used 
to even 40 years ago. Once the flashover happens your chances of 
getting out are not too good. Quite a rush though if you have the 
protective gear and breathing apparatus and have a hose right 
there to get it under control.


Manfred

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 10:43:39 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re:  abuse of cars 2ejuremy

Maybe, but is the issue with the foamboard not more of a concern with
the gases it gives off when there is a fire? Most plastics are not
friendly to the lungs in a fire.
Maybe wood smoke is not either, but I think I would rather take my
chances with it than the plastic smoke.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Brian Toscano
They should make all electric vehicles pay their fuel tax based on the
mileage driven.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:25 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 We should all buy a big suv

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 6:20 PM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

  Then don't buy an electric or a hybrid. Those are cheating the system
 too.
 
  In fact, buying any high MPG vehicle means you are not paying your fair
 share of road tax.
 
  -Dave Walton
 
  On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
  Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.
 
 
  On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
  If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
  don't.
 
  You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
  unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to
 disable
  the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits
 to do
  just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.
 
  As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during
 the
  exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case
 - for
  any make and models - please let me know.
 
  Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings,
 drip
  into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a
 solid.
 
  I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
  alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.
 
  Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
  can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the
 vehicle
  after the warranty expires.
 
  -Dave Walton
 
  On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
  the
  next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily
 available
  in the last five years of ownership, and why?
 
  Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
  current C class?
 
  --
  OK Don
  2001 ML320
  1992 300D 2.5T
  1990 300D 2.5T
  1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
  ___
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
  ___
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
When I did my front end rebuild all was well except for the steering slop. I 
just tighten up the adjustment screw a bit and it eliminated the slop but the 
steering still doesn't feel quite right.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net 
wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston was 
pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment done.  
Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the steering.  
The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can rotate the 
steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.  It is not a lot, 
but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is really dead.

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the scary 
stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with all the 
work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to get rid of 
that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would not do much to 
make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the way it should be (I 
think not).

On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air cleaner 
is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one at some 
point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or not, should 
I just get a new one and replace it?

--R



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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Ha. That is an excellent point!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:20 PM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

Then don't buy an electric or a hybrid. Those are cheating the system too.

In fact, buying any high MPG vehicle means you are not paying your fair share 
of road tax.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
don't.

You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable
the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do
just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.

As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for
any make and models - please let me know.

Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip
into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.

I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.

Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle
after the warranty expires.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
the
next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
in the last five years of ownership, and why?

Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
current C class?

--
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
And those who ride bicycles and use the road? Shouldn't they be subjected to a 
road tax?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:20 PM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

Then don't buy an electric or a hybrid. Those are cheating the system too.

In fact, buying any high MPG vehicle means you are not paying your fair share 
of road tax.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
don't.

You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable
the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do
just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.

As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for
any make and models - please let me know.

Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip
into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.

I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.

Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle
after the warranty expires.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
the
next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
in the last five years of ownership, and why?

Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
current C class?

--
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Brian Toscano
In some places bicycles need to be registered.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:30 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

 And those who ride bicycles and use the road? Shouldn't they be subjected
 to a road tax?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:20 PM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

 Then don't buy an electric or a hybrid. Those are cheating the system too.

 In fact, buying any high MPG vehicle means you are not paying your fair
 share of road tax.

 -Dave Walton

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.


 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
 don't.

 You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
 unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable
 the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do
 just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.

 As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
 exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for
 any make and models - please let me know.

 Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip
 into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.

 I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
 alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.

 Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
 can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle
 after the warranty expires.

 -Dave Walton

 On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
 the
 next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
 in the last five years of ownership, and why?

 Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
 current C class?

 --
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dave Walton
Oil prices are not market driven. Oil is not a free market. 

-Dave Walton


On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:15 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Yes, we should be doing this - a surplus of one resource, and a need
 for
 another - convert the gas to Diesel.
 However, the companies that will be doing this (unless the government
 nationalizes it) will be selling to the highest bidder - likely China,
 India, Brazel, etc. THERE IS NO US OIL - get over it. It's owned,
 produced,
 distributed, and sold by International corporations who have NO
 national
 interest.
 
 
 Yep.  International market sets the price.  Used as CNG we can avoid that, we 
 just need the infrastructure and the cars.
 
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering sloppy coupling

2012-04-18 Thread Hendrik Fay
Check the flex coupling, a couple of days ago it came up on the OzBenz 
forum that one of those had completely disintegrated on a 126.

Rusty sells em for a 100 slides
www.buymbparts.biz/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1987-Mercedes-300sdl-Steeringyearid=1987%40%401987makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES%40%40Xmodelid=6213%3AED|1100%3AMBC|1512%40%40300SDLcatid=241580%40%40Steeringsubcatid=241649@@Steering 
Couplingmode=PD


Hendrik
who will be checking the coupling at the next opportunity

On 19/04/12 08:27, Rich Thomas wrote:
OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one 
piston was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, 
an alignment done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair 
amount of slop in the steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead 
of the box is fine, I can rotate the steering shaft right at the box 
and no response from the box.  It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the 
top of the steering wheel, and it is really dead.


I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the 
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But 
with all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would 
like to get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then 
adjusting it would not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the 
way it is is sorta the way it should be (I think not).


On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air 
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this 
one at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working 
correctly or not, should I just get a new one and replace it?


--R







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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
True but they don't pay a road tax.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:37 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

In some places bicycles need to be registered.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:30 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

And those who ride bicycles and use the road? Shouldn't they be subjected
to a road tax?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:20 PM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

Then don't buy an electric or a hybrid. Those are cheating the system too.

In fact, buying any high MPG vehicle means you are not paying your fair
share of road tax.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
wrote:

Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com
wrote:

If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
don't.

You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable
the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do
just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.

As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for
any make and models - please let me know.

Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip
into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.

I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.

Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle
after the warranty expires.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
the
next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
in the last five years of ownership, and why?

Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
current C class?

--
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas or bicycle?

2012-04-18 Thread Hendrik Fay

...and it should be against the law for middle aged men to wear lycra.

Hendrik
who does NOT wear lycra

On 19/04/12 09:07, Brian Toscano wrote:

In some places bicycles need to be registered.






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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering sloppy coupling

2012-04-18 Thread WILTON
I have some old 35mm slides here in my desk; I should use those next time I 
place an order with Q.  ;)


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering sloppy coupling


Check the flex coupling, a couple of days ago it came up on the OzBenz 
forum that one of those had completely disintegrated on a 126.

Rusty sells em for a 100 slides
www.buymbparts.biz/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1987-Mercedes-300sdl-Steeringyearid=1987%40%401987makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES%40%40Xmodelid=6213%3AED|1100%3AMBC|1512%40%40300SDLcatid=241580%40%40Steeringsubcatid=241649@@Steering 
Couplingmode=PD


Hendrik
who will be checking the coupling at the next opportunity

On 19/04/12 08:27, Rich Thomas wrote:
OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one 
piston was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an 
alignment done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of 
slop in the steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is 
fine, I can rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response 
from the box.  It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering 
wheel, and it is really dead.


I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the 
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But 
with all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would 
like to get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting 
it would not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is 
sorta the way it should be (I think not).


On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air 
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this 
one at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working 
correctly or not, should I just get a new one and replace it?


--R







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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Hendrik Fay
There is supposed to be a little bit of play in the steering, over 
adjusting the steering box may well lead to premature wear and/or 
locking of the box at full turn.
Proper alignment is important, to ensure the car drives straight with a 
slight movement to the right for you and left for us.


Hendrik
who doesn't mess with the steering box

On 19/04/12 08:57, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

When I did my front end rebuild all was well except for the steering slop. I 
just tighten up the adjustment screw a bit and it eliminated the slop but the 
steering still doesn't feel quite right.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomasrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net  
wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston was 
pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment done.  
Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the steering.  
The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can rotate the 
steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.  It is not a lot, 
but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is really dead.

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the scary 
stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with all the 
work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to get rid of 
that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would not do much to 
make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the way it should be (I 
think not).

On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air cleaner 
is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one at some 
point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or not, should 
I just get a new one and replace it?

--R





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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas or bicycle?

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Yeah but middle aged women might like seeing middle aged men in Lycra:)

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:49 PM, Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au wrote:

...and it should be against the law for middle aged men to wear lycra.

Hendrik
who does NOT wear lycra

On 19/04/12 09:07, Brian Toscano wrote:
In some places bicycles need to be registered.





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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread WILTON
Very little play in either of mine (124 and 126); 'trip to Raleigh and back 
on the 126 today; ever so slight pressure left or right on wheel at cruise 
puts it right where I want it.  'Feels much like flying.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop


There is supposed to be a little bit of play in the steering, over 
adjusting the steering box may well lead to premature wear and/or locking 
of the box at full turn.
Proper alignment is important, to ensure the car drives straight with a 
slight movement to the right for you and left for us.


Hendrik
who doesn't mess with the steering box

On 19/04/12 08:57, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
When I did my front end rebuild all was well except for the steering 
slop. I just tighten up the adjustment screw a bit and it eliminated the 
slop but the steering still doesn't feel quite right.


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Rich 
Thomasrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net  wrote:


OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one 
piston was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an 
alignment done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of 
slop in the steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is 
fine, I can rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response 
from the box.  It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering 
wheel, and it is really dead.


I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the 
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But 
with all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would 
like to get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting 
it would not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is 
sorta the way it should be (I think not).


On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air 
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this 
one at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working 
correctly or not, should I just get a new one and replace it?


--R





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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
clockwise.
Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
bit more.

If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

Good luck,
Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
 was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
 done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
 steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
 rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
  It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
 really dead.

 I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
 scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
 all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
 get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
 not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
 way it should be (I think not).

 On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
 cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
 at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
 not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

 --R



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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel or LNG from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Hendrik Fay

http://www.ens-newswire.com/ens/feb2011/2011-02-22-091.html
Some buses around here have been running on LNG for a long time now.

I guess it all depends on cost, can they buy nat gas, convert it to 
Diesel and sell it for the same price as dino Diesel?
At this stage I would think perhaps not, however with emissions being a 
big thing, this may change soon enough.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/12/24/business/energy-environment/24fuel.html
http://www.bankspower.com/techarticles/show/19-Synthetic-Diesel-Fuel

Hendrik
who produces gas

On 19/04/12 01:35, roger...@comcast.net wrote:

Guys,
I've been preaching this for years. During WWII the Germans needed a source for 
diesel and couldn't get oil so they created diesel from natural gas. This was 
lost after the war and everyone could once again get oil. Then several years 
ago (6-10) one of the colleges on the Left Coast ran a project to revive this 
method of creating diesel. From the last I read, they got it down to a 4-step 
process. If I remember correctly, they envisioned portable conversion plants 
for remote areas to convert it and then truck to existing distribution 
lines/pipelines. Their final description was that diesel from natural gas was 
just as clean as natural gas (0 emissions), provided better power and yielded 
better mileage than oil based diesel. And that we already have a pipeline 
distribution system and diesel tanks and pumps at the gas stations, so no need 
to create a whole new network with the time needed and the additional costs.
I think this process would be great for our country and get us off of 
dependence on foreign oil. Just some additional info to add to the discussion.
Best Wishes,

Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com (new)
www.rubylane.com/shops/sna (antique)

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Brian Toscano
The registration money may be funneled to the DOT.  It really all depends
on how the state funds its roads, bridges, and overall transportation
system.


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:47 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

 True but they don't pay a road tax.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:37 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 In some places bicycles need to be registered.


 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:30 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
 wrote:

 And those who ride bicycles and use the road? Shouldn't they be subjected
 to a road tax?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:20 PM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

 Then don't buy an electric or a hybrid. Those are cheating the system too.

 In fact, buying any high MPG vehicle means you are not paying your fair
 share of road tax.

 -Dave Walton

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.


 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
 don't.

 You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
 unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable
 the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do
 just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.

 As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
 exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for
 any make and models - please let me know.

 Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip
 into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.

 I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
 alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.

 Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
 can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle
 after the warranty expires.

 -Dave Walton

 On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
 the
 next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
 in the last five years of ownership, and why?

 Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
 current C class?

 --
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Brian Toscano
Diesels are best for heavy towing and towing at high altitudes and over
mountains.  Isn't Manitoba mostly flat prairie?  How big of a boat will you
be taking to the lake? :-)


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:11 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca writes:

  I think I want the Dodge with the Cummins. I know I don't want the
  Ford. I am not sure about a GM product.

 GM is an Isuzu.  Ford is their own, I think.  Cummins is... well, Cummins.


 --
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread David Bruckmann
On a 126 SD, the box is self-adjusting. Are you absolutely sure the flex 
coupler is solid (ie. you need to check it with resistance, not with the front 
wheels in the air).


Rich Thomas wrote:

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
So when should a steering box be replaced? Is there a time when you just can't 
adjust out the slop?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:01 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
clockwise.
Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
bit more.

If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

Good luck,
Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
really dead.

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
way it should be (I think not).

On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

--R



__**_
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http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Yes, when you reach the point that the adjustment screw won't back out
anymore, its time to rebuild/replace the box.  I've only experienced this
once after owning dozens of these cars.  You can usually adjust it to be
perfect or at least acceptable.

There is a factory procedure for adjusting the box... it involves a torque
wrench at the steering wheel and removal of the pitman arm.  Its a nice way
to do it, if you have the tools and the time.

But again, make sure you're changing the fluid frequently.  Most cars have
never seen a fluid change, which certainly doesn't help the life of the
box.  I generally suck out what I can and replace it every time I change
the oil.  I keep a gallon of generic ATF on hand just for this purpose.

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:12 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

 So when should a steering box be replaced? Is there a time when you just
 can't adjust out the slop?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:01 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

 Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
 recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

 Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
 nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
 1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
 Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
 screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
 out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
 clockwise.
 Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

 Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
 bit more.

 If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
 very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
 might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

 This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
 fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
 replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
 the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

 Good luck,
 Jaime


 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
 was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
 done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
 steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
 rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
 It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
 really dead.

 I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
 scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
 all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
 get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
 not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
 way it should be (I think not).

 On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
 cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
 at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
 not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

 --R



 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




 --
 Jaime Kopchinski
 http://www.jaimekop.com/
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Whoa! You replace the PS fluid at every oil change?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:18 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Yes, when you reach the point that the adjustment screw won't back out
anymore, its time to rebuild/replace the box.  I've only experienced this
once after owning dozens of these cars.  You can usually adjust it to be
perfect or at least acceptable.

There is a factory procedure for adjusting the box... it involves a torque
wrench at the steering wheel and removal of the pitman arm.  Its a nice way
to do it, if you have the tools and the time.

But again, make sure you're changing the fluid frequently.  Most cars have
never seen a fluid change, which certainly doesn't help the life of the
box.  I generally suck out what I can and replace it every time I change
the oil.  I keep a gallon of generic ATF on hand just for this purpose.

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:12 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

So when should a steering box be replaced? Is there a time when you just
can't adjust out the slop?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:01 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
clockwise.
Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
bit more.

If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

Good luck,
Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
really dead.

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
way it should be (I think not).

On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

--R



__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




--
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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For new and used parts 

Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Allan Streib
Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com writes:

 Then don't buy an electric or a hybrid. Those are cheating the system
 too.

This will have to be addressed if/when plug-in electric vehicles begin
to register in the total percentage of vehicles on the road.  Now and
for the foreseeable future there aren't enough of them to matter.  If
this changes, there will be some kind of mandatory extra electric meter
on your charger, or you will be charged a flat extra tax when you
register the car, or you will have to pay based on miles driven.

Hybrids and traditional but economical cars are an easier challenge,
they still use fuel, so as fuel consumption drops they will just raise
the tax so they have the same money coming in.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Allan Streib
Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au writes:

 Proper alignment is important, to ensure the car drives straight with
 a slight movement to the right for you and left for us.

Why a slight drift to one side?  Don't you want it to track absolutely
straight?

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Rick Knoble
On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:34 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 you will have to pay based on miles driven.


They already floated a trial ballon, saying we will each have a GPS device in 
our cars to track miles driven. 

http://techblog.dallasnews.com/archives/2011/05/obama-administration-floats-pl.html

http://thehill.com/blogs/floor-action/house/159397-obama-floats-plan-to-tax-cars-by-the-mile

And you thought Big Brother was already watching... Just wait. It gets worse. 
Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dieselhead
No!  Fischer Tropf was coal to Dissel and gasoline.  Crude from coal 
yields several fractions similar to petro crude.




Didn't the Germans do that in WW2?  The fuel part I mean, though 
they probably could have handled CARB as well.


--R

On 4/18/12 8:56 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
Big story on NPR yesterday about the sinking price of natural gas 
due to ease of extraction what with fracking and how they'll 
extract nat gas to get to propane and such. I was reminded that 
there is apparently some process to turn natural gas into diesel 
fuel and made me wonder if a diesel resurgence might be on the 
horizon. Fuel America with fuel from America. Gotta figure out how 
to get CARB on board...


-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Rick Knoble
 On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.


IIRC, you are allowed to make up to 400 gallons of alternative fuel without 
paying road taxes. Kind of like you can brew or distill 200 gallons of your 
favorite ethanol based beverage for personal consumption without paying taxes 
on it. 

Rick
Who no longer drinks ethanol based beverages. 
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Until it looks clean, yes... it takes some time to flush out 30 year old
fluid!

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:23 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

 Whoa! You replace the PS fluid at every oil change?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:18 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, when you reach the point that the adjustment screw won't back out
 anymore, its time to rebuild/replace the box.  I've only experienced this
 once after owning dozens of these cars.  You can usually adjust it to be
 perfect or at least acceptable.

 There is a factory procedure for adjusting the box... it involves a torque
 wrench at the steering wheel and removal of the pitman arm.  Its a nice way
 to do it, if you have the tools and the time.

 But again, make sure you're changing the fluid frequently.  Most cars have
 never seen a fluid change, which certainly doesn't help the life of the
 box.  I generally suck out what I can and replace it every time I change
 the oil.  I keep a gallon of generic ATF on hand just for this purpose.

 Jaime


 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:12 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
 wrote:

 So when should a steering box be replaced? Is there a time when you just
 can't adjust out the slop?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:01 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

 Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
 recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

 Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
 nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
 1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
 Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
 screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
 out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
 clockwise.
 Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

 Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
 bit more.

 If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
 very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
 might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

 This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
 fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
 replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
 the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

 Good luck,
 Jaime


 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
 was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
 done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
 steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
 rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
 It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
 really dead.

 I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
 scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
 all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
 get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
 not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
 way it should be (I think not).

 On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
 cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
 at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
 not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

 --R



 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




 --
 Jaime Kopchinski
 http://www.jaimekop.com/
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




 --
 Jaime Kopchinski
 http://www.jaimekop.com/
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to 

Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread David Bruckmann
Versus the W123 (and prior) is NOT self-adjusting, hence the need to do so 
occasionally.

I'd be careful with a 126. If it is loose, it is probably the coupler, or the 
box is shot.

D.


At 5:12 PM -0700 4/18/12, David Bruckmann wrote:
On a 126 SD, the box is self-adjusting. Are you absolutely sure the flex 
coupler is solid (ie. you need to check it with resistance, not with the front 
wheels in the air).


Rich Thomas wrote:

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Rick Knoble
Roads are crowned so water runs off. So your car will drift right in USA or 
left in OZ. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone.

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:37 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Why a slight drift to one side?  Don't you want it to track absolutely
 straight?

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Fmiser
 Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Big story on NPR yesterday about the sinking price of natural
 gas due to ease of extraction what with fracking and how
 they'll extract nat gas to get to propane and such.

 Max wrote:

 Better plan would be convert our gas cars to run on CNG.

You convert yours to run on CNG - I'll keep mine running on
diesel, thanks. *smiles*

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Yikees.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:42 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:34 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

you will have to pay based on miles driven.


They already floated a trial ballon, saying we will each have a GPS device in 
our cars to track miles driven. 

http://techblog.dallasnews.com/archives/2011/05/obama-administration-floats-pl.html

http://thehill.com/blogs/floor-action/house/159397-obama-floats-plan-to-tax-cars-by-the-mile

And you thought Big Brother was already watching... Just wait. It gets worse. 
Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] OM603 Turbo Install vs. Head Install

2012-04-18 Thread Peter Frederick
It's easy to install the manifold and turbo onto the head with the  
head hanging on  the lift.  I had to do this when I replaced the head  
gasket on the old 300D as we found a broken manifold stud when we had  
the head off.


Be VERY careful not to bend up the oil feed line when removing the  
head -- make sure it's out of the block before lifting the head.


Tighten the manifold nuts to the torque spec, do NOT over tighten.   
The gasket is a metal spring gasket, and if you mash it flat rather  
than pre-loading it, not only will the studs break off in use, it  
will also leak after a couple temp cycles, leading to excess black  
smudge in the passenger compartment, noise, and soot all over the  
right side of the engine.


Peter

On Apr 18, 2012, at 12:25 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

OK, any special tricks or tips to getting the head/manifold to mate  
with the

turbo/block?  I do have a nice lift.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 334k miles (Off with the head!)
'95 E300 292k miles (daily driving duties)
'73 Balboa 20 (High  dry until the head is back on)
Charleston SC





From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, April 17, 2012 10:28:23 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Turbo Install vs. Head Install

That's how I did it also --

On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 2:23 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin  
ka...@striplin.netwrote:



That's how I do it

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 17, 2012, at 1:41 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
wrote:


Dieselvolk,



I'm working on installing the new head on my '87 wagon.  Has  
anyone

ever
installed the turbo first, and then lowered the head into place?   
The

angle
of the junction between turbo and exhaust manifold is working  
against me,

but leaving things loose may allow enough slack to overcome that.




--


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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