LarryT wrote:
Howdy -
A couple of weeks ago my battery and alternator died. Installed a new
battery and an alternator from Rusty and all was well.
Tonight my wife was starting to work - got about 5 miles from home and she
called to say the ABS light was on - then the SRS light came on
dave walton wrote:
I just bought an 87 SDL that looks like it has been parked in the sun
for the last 10 years. The foam in the headrests is disintegrating.
I'm trying to figure out how to remove the leather cover - there looks
to be a seam along the bottom that is not stitched. Anyone know
Sorry, I just realized you were talking about the headrest, not the
seatback. My post is unlikely to help you.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/car/195337928.html
This sucker will haul some cars.
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sat Aug 19 01:57:07 2006
Received: from py-out-1112.google.com ([64.233.166.178])
by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id
I have 5 qts of M-1 Truck and SUV 5w-40 and I want to get another 3 qts to
mix with it for the next oil change.
What I found was M-1 15-50, now it is a CF rating but NOWHERE on the bottle
does it say ANYTHING about being a Diesel. Now I know a CF rating is a
Diesel rating but why dont they say
Hi there colleagues
Were the W123 instrument clusters interchangeable? I'm looking at buying the
cluster from a 1982 280E, to replace my 1985 300TD cluster. One way of
fixing the bouncing speedo needle.
I guess if the cluster unit itself doesn't fit, the individual instruments
themselves
You are confused. The phrase is, Resistance is futile.
And then you are thrown into the vacuum of space, only to be rescued by the
Heart of Gold. Ah, to be served a Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster!
On 8/18/06, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
No, existence is futile
--
Proudly marching to
I am thinking of seeing if FSM vanity plates are available in Iowa.
Would look pretty cool (along with the Retired Coast Guard emblem) on
Loren's old diesel VW.
The plates would be a one-time extra $50 but I would consider that to be my
tithe.
On 8/18/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A
Mobile-1 15-W-50 is the Holy Grail. Use it or send it to me.
I asked the same question of Marshall a couple of weeks ago. He said go for
it.
On 8/18/06, W. Lasher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have 5 qts of M-1 Truck and SUV 5w-40 and I want to get another 3 qts to
mix with it for the next oil
WOO HOO...
Kaleb could get $2000 worth of cars on there!
Bob Rentfro
- Original Message -
From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 6:53 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Something for Kaleb
V-plates are an extra $25 each year here in AZ...
BR
- Original Message -
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com; Loren Faeth
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Existence?
I am thinking of seeing if
Sort of the same price structure in Iowa -- it is $25 for vanity plates and
another $25 more for special plates (in my case, the retired Coast Guard
ones).
http://www.dot.state.ia.us/mvd/ovs/plates/service3.gif
I have these plates and vanity LTDON on my Benz.
On 8/18/06, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL
First off, I only have a visual on the car and know that the guy wants to be
rid of it FAST and cheap. That's all folks
On Fri, 18 Aug 2006 14:40:10 -0500, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Where you at, Luther?
What is usable on the car?
Mac
on 8/18/06 1:16 PM, Luther Gulseth at
Find out who the company is, call them up and ask about purchasing a couple hundred
gallons of WVO. When they're ready to talk, find out what they do to the oil after they
collect it from the food bin. If they say nothing or something similar, that's illegal
to sell. I believe (haven't seen
http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/195810634.html
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/195783243.html
take out the rear seat and go forever. A w124 would be able to get at
least 2k miles per fill up
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
I was going to get 77 W123 on mine this year...but I decided not. Paying the
$25 extra more than doubles what the tags would be normally.
BR
- Original Message -
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 7:34 PM
Go for it. $25 is what, like a couple of 12-packs of Mountain Dew?
On 8/18/06, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I was going to get 77 W123 on mine this year...but I decided not. Paying
the
$25 extra more than doubles what the tags would be normally.
BR
- Original Message -
From:
Jesus, Mary and Joesph!
Kaleb could retire a gazillionaire if he had all those and employed his
shrewd ebay mojo.
Bob Rentfro
- Original Message -
From: redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes List Mercedes@okiebenz.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; banned
List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent:
Yee Haw it shore is!
24 Dews would keep me amped fer a hole set a nights at the old Noo-klee-er
plant.
Bobby Jim Joe
- Original Message -
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ]
Uh, I do believe that would be Okie Benz to the third power!
On Fri, 18 Aug 2006 21:44:55 -0500, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/195810634.html
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/195609647.html
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
The main problem with the 5.7 was nobody knew how to take care of
diesels, neither did the dealers
Ed Booher wrote:
Yes you do, provided you get the correct block. The later castings had
more strength and had the makings of an awesome Diesel block, however
by then the damage (literally) had
Well thats pretty good mileage compared to the same year etc gas version.
Mitch Haley wrote:
Ed Booher wrote:
Also, don't forget that there was not just a 5.7 V8, but also two 4.3
V6's, one with a RWD bellhousing and one with a FWD.
My dad had the FWD in a 83 Ciera. Ran like crap (0-60 in
no, not really.
Euan wrote:
Hi there colleagues
Were the W123 instrument clusters interchangeable? I'm looking at buying the
cluster from a 1982 280E, to replace my 1985 300TD cluster. One way of
fixing the bouncing speedo needle.
I guess if the cluster unit itself doesn't fit, the
That sounds like a good idea. They might deliver it, cleaned and filtered,
in quantity; and that would still be cheaper than diesel.
Gerry
- Original Message -
From: Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Find out who the company is, call them up and ask about purchasing a
couple hundred
Euan wrote:
Hi there colleagues
Were the W123 instrument clusters interchangeable? I'm looking at buying the
cluster from a 1982 280E, to replace my 1985 300TD cluster. One way of
fixing the bouncing speedo needle.
I guess if the cluster unit itself doesn't fit, the individual
http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/195810634.html
Seems like quite a crop of 114 coupes in there.
-- Jim
I guess if the cluster unit itself doesn't fit, the individual
instruments
themselves might slot straight into my cluster?
The shift pips will likely be off on the speedometer, and the tachometer
will probably be all wrong. Not the best solution out there, but it
could possibly be made to
cept cleaned and filterd is illegal
On Fri, 18 Aug 2006 23:15:54 -0500, archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
That sounds like a good idea. They might deliver it, cleaned and filtered,
in quantity; and that would still be cheaper than diesel.
Gerry
- Original Message -
From: Luther Gulseth
Removed the cruise control actuator and the EGR valve so that I could
get to the exhaust manifold. (This also allowed me to remove the
now-useless mount for the automatic transmission cable.) None of the
manifold's retaining nuts were loose, nor was there any obvious
problem with the EGR
Thanks for the very prompt replies.
But what are 'shift point marks'? Is this related to auto transmissions? My
wagon is a manual.
Regards
Euan
They'll certainly interchange in terms of fitment. I think a 280E
speedo will even work properly with a non-turbo 617. I'm pretty sure my
But what are 'shift point marks'? Is this related to auto
transmissions? My
wagon is a manual.
Both types have them, they're marks on the speedo face that represent
engine redline in each gear.
-- Jim
Ah, the CF is a diesel rating so to say diesel, perhaps is redundent.
On the other hand the CF rating is old, so
maybe by avoiding saying diesel they'll keep someone from pouring it
into their TDI or other newer diesel engine which
won't like a diesel oil that is just CF.
However CF is just
Not with bioD. WVO yes. BioD is the same viscosity as DinoD.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vegtable Oil Question
Homepower had an article some time ago about burning
Casey,
Check out the altfuelfurnace group on Yahoo groups. There is alot more to
it than just dumping it in. Way more involved than running the WVO in a
diesel engine. Spray pattern is a major problem as well as keeping the
nozzle from dripping on after the furnace quits(causing a fouled
WVO will flow to the pump but it will not go through the nozzle unless
heated just before the nozzle with an inline electric heater.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 1:35 PM
Agreed.Your furnace can't exhaust the heavier particulates like a car
can therefore you would eventually end up with a bunch of crud in your
firebox and heat exchanger. Not to mention the liklihood of a very foul
smelling house.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: David Brodbeck
The cooks didn't know the name of the company that picked up the waste oil
from the tanks and the traps. Next time I'm over there I'll ask one of the
owners. A Tampa internet search found this:
Griffin Industries is a forerunner and innovator in waste cooking oil
collection and recycling.
Jim Cathey wrote:
Obviously I now have an undriveable mess on my hands, and will need at
least a master cylinder (or rebuild), two brake hoses, and two caliper
rebuild kits.
Got ABS? If so, I've got a parts car.
Does mbz run the two brakes systems front/back, or are LF and RR on the same
Mike Canfield wrote:
WVO will flow to the pump but it will not go through the nozzle unless
heated just before the nozzle with an inline electric heater.
And you can't just replace a 3/4 gph nozzle with a 1.5gph nozzle?
Would that make it atomize poorly?
The idea of burning it in an old VW
Rice your Ride -- saw this while scrolling through Make Magazine blogs
http://makezine.com/blog/archives.html (a great time waster on a stormy
Sat morning)
--R
http://tech.oldsgmail.com/eint_ledclus.php
I'm sure it has been said, but the last E300 diesel was the 99
TurboDiesel, then 2005-2006 is the E320CDI (I hear they are great, see a
few of them on the road, but haven't talked to an owner).
The 99 E300 is a FANTASTIC car :):) (okay, I'm still walking funny b/c the
last maintenance turned
On Tue, 15 Aug 2006, John Peterson wrote:
$2.98 a gallon in New Hampshire on Sunday.
Tue/Weds I paid 2.99/g, it dropped thursday or friday to 2.89/g (NoVA, US
15 south of the Potomac/north of leesburg (2x Gasmart, 1x Getty))
Btw gasbuddy can be a help.
-j.
Got ABS? If so, I've got a parts car.
No, it's plain. I have a parts car too, but it's been out in the rain
for awhile. Not sure its MC would be worth messing with.
Does mbz run the two brakes systems front/back, or are LF and RR on
the same
circuit? If the latter, suspect your
I've been finding water on the floor behind the passenger seat after a rain.
This occurs with or without the car being driven. Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Mike Netzky
1983 300D turbo
On Sat, 19 Aug 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've been finding water on the floor behind the passenger seat after a rain.
This occurs with or without the car being driven. Any thoughts?
Sunroof drains plugged?
Leaky windsheild seal?
Leaky rear window seal?
-j.
Thanks, John. I'll pass this info along to my son in case he buys one. I
haven't heard yet whether he has or not.
On the old VW Beetles, spark plugs were bad about siezing. I would run the
car several blocks, getting the heads as hot as possible, then put a deep
socket over the tight plug
On Sat, 19 Aug 2006, Jim Cathey wrote:
It's front vs rear. The rear circuit locked on until the heat blew
the lines and released the brakes. I can't think of anything that'd
cause this except a bad MC, though a good visual inspection of the lines
to the rear is called for.
Bad hoses at the
John W. Reames III wrote:
Sunroof drains plugged?
Leaky windsheild seal?
Leaky rear window seal?
Rusty firewall behind the battery?
Bad A/C evap drain, worse in high humidity/rainy weather?
John W. Reames III wrote:
On Sat, 19 Aug 2006, Jim Cathey wrote:
Bad hoses at the cylinders could cause it. I have seen the hoses turn into
check valves internally with normal outward appearances. When were the
hoses last replaced?
But both simultaneously, and both sides releasing when one
Bad hoses at the cylinders could cause it. I have seen the hoses turn
into
check valves internally with normal outward appearances. When were the
hoses last replaced?
Seems unlikely that they _both_ would start doing that at the same time.
OTOH, the car had just spent three hours with the
Walt,
did you hit Schucks? the august calendar coupon is for M1 @ $3.99.
Yes, as a matter of fact I did. THREE of them. NONE had M-1 Diesel oil.
They were recommending another oil for Diesel because of this.
My original question was (more or less) is M-1 15-50 an approved
Diesel
W. Lasher wrote:
My original question was (more or less) is M-1 15-50 an approved
Diesel and can I mix 3 qts of it with my old Truck SUV 5w-40 oil?
I think DrB answered it last week. 15W-50 does not have the soot carrying
and acid neutralizing capacity of heavy duty diesel truck oil, but it
But both simultaneously, and both sides releasing when one hose blew?
Unless there is a hose upstream where fluid to both brakes flow
through it,
I think it's unlikely.
Sure, the whole rear circuit is just one teed hose, if you lose either
side the whole circuit, both sides, is depressurized.
I can't think of anything that'd
cause this except a bad MC, though a good visual inspection of the
lines
to the rear is called for.
There's no sign of brake line crimping caused by a lift mishap.
Still blaming the MC.
-- Jim
had the same problem on my 82 300TD. turned out to be plugged fender
drains. Check the pocket where the hinge rests when the hood is down, then
below the battery and the brake booster is where the lower drains are
located. A jet nozzle on the hose directed in these areas will do the
trick. In
In a message dated 8/19/2006 1:05:49 P.M. Central Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Water on the floor
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
The water is on the floor behind the front passenger seat. How can I
tell if
and where the sunroof drains are?
Use hose on various areas until leaks appear. Could well be
the battery firewall area.
-- Jim
Got fuel yesterday. Had to swallow when I saw the BioD price was up to
$3.11. Big grin that I was not putting any #2 in. The price there has
gone to $3.57. Guess I need to snag a large tank and stock up while it
is cheap for winter driving. Then again, I could just use old oil and
some
This is stolen fair and square...
My mailbox is flooded with mail concerning gas prices and illegal
immigrants. To boycott oil companies or not; to provide amnesty to
illegal immigrants or not, etc.
Since I have become jaded to the various solutions proposed by the
Republicans, Democrats,
I have picked up the extended stuff. It is mobil 1, and IIRC Marshall
vouched for it. I think it is the 15-50, and I mixed it with TSUV in
Gump. I have found it at GI Joe now, where the TSUV was not to be
found.
On Saturday, August 19, 2006, at 10:50 AM, W. Lasher wrote:
Walt,
did you
If it has a C rating, it is approved for diesel use, that's what the C
rating is for. S ratings are for spark ignition engines (i.e.
gasoline).
You can freely mix C-rated oils if you choose. The only caveat is that
you must assume the lower rating if you do -- CF rated oil mixed with
CH-4
you'd be swallowing harder, here; fuel at the local BioD purveyor is
$3.70/g, and has been for a while already. i see #2 ranging from
$0.40-0.50/g cheaper. (seems none of the local BioD purveyors have managed
to figure out how to take advantage of the tax credits and pass it
along,...)
rumor has it that [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've been finding water on the floor behind the passenger seat after
a rain.
This occurs with or without the car being driven. Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Mike Netzky
1983 300D turbo
I have had that problem on at least 5 of the W123s I've dealt
I THINK I've tested the door locking system with the Mity Vac. What I found
is that the door actuators on the front passenger door and the two rear doors
leaked vacuum on the upper green striped (unlocked) side and held vacuum on
the lower red striped (locked) side.
Do they need to be
On Sat, 19 Aug 2006 17:14:09 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Do they need to be replaced and could this be coincidence that all three
fail in the same way?
If you were testing them one-at-a-time and not three-at-once, yes, that's
quite a coincidence. Take the inside panels off the doors and check
Thanks Jim
Neither mine nor the 280E speedo seem to have the shift point marks. Could
be a US convention?
I see also that the 280E speedo reads up to 150 MPH, whereas my non-turbo
diesel speedo aspires to a much more modest 110 MPH.
Might be able to cannibalise the 280E speedo for parts.
Euan wrote:
Might be able to cannibalise the 280E speedo for parts. Could always do with
a spare oil pressure gauge, of course (on my third one already).
Do you use two wrenches when tightening or loosening the oil line at the gauge?
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