Why is that?
On 9/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
no
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (218k)
'84 300D (216k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
the offset is wrong
Zeitgeist wrote:
Why is that?
On 9/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
no
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (218k)
'84 300D (216k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
Don asked:did you change the oil when you bought the car, or is still
running the oil that the PO put in it
Hello Don of OK, ;-)
Oh, no, no , no ;-) The 1st thing I do when I buy a car is change the
fluids - almost always with Mobil 1 synthetic. We've put 15000 miles on
this car since
I've been thinking about a related comment since before this thread -
I'm thinking a screw on top with a inlet and outlet - there's one that came
with my MityMite Vac kit - internally, one tube goes into the bottom of the
container and is below the level of the liquid - this way, the vacuum
On Sep 30, 2006, at 8:16 AM, Lee Einer wrote:
I made a supersucker using my 6 horsepower shop vac. It supersucked.
Not
in a nice way. The plastic buckets tended to buckle and collapse, which
also caused the lid to bend, warp and split. The contorted bucket
tended
to splash the waste oil back up
Well, my '81 came with steel rims, that I swapped for the bundts that
were on the 115 300D after it was totaled.
On 9/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
They are much lighter and easier to carry around. They usually came on
all the 240D's after about 1980 or so. Bascially
PF opines:
0 weight oils are too thin, in my humble opinion, for any diesel. Too much
pressure on the journal on the compression stroke, not enough film
strength, even for a synthetic like Mobil 1
snip
I believe the 0 weight oils are intended to give small gasoline engines a
bit better
And a compression ratio of what, 12:1? My point is the much higher
compression ratio (hence higher loading) and film strength in the
crankpin journal bearing. My engines were designed long before 0 wt
oils were available, I'll stick with higher cold viscosity oil, thank
you very much.
When I start the car the idiot lights no longer come on. The only lights
that come on now are the glow plug light and the SRS light. Any ideas where
I should start looking?
Bob Morrison
87 300D-198000
92 300D-22 growing old fast.
I've heard from the list that Mobil 1 0W-30 is one of the good weights
to
run in our diesels. Now how about running it in my gasser Saab?
I would not run it in ANY MB of any kind. none of the M1 xW-30's (0,5,10)
carry ANY MB approvals due to insufficient high-temperature shear
strength.
Peter Frederick wrote:
And a compression ratio of what, 12:1? My point is the much higher
compression ratio (hence higher loading) and film strength in the
crankpin journal bearing.
But that would have more to do with the 40 part than the 0W part,
right? I thought the W part of the
Lee Einer wrote:
So, any advice on how to keep the buckets from collapsing?
I think you're pulling a harder vacuum than is really necessary. You
might create a controllable leak somehow to bleed in some air. A 6 hp
shop vac is pretty powerful. It doesn't take nearly as much suction as
you'd
And while we are at it, how many angels can dance on the head of a pin?
http://www.answerbag.com/q_view.php/35011
On 9/30/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Peter Frederick wrote:
And a compression ratio of what, 12:1? My point is the much higher
compression ratio (hence higher
John:
I think the Mobil 1 brand 0-W-40 is on the MB approved list for diesels.
Personally, I stick with the 15-W-50 stuff.
I would not run it in ANY MB of any kind. none of the M1 xW-30's (0,5,10)
carry ANY MB approvals due to insufficient high-temperature shear
strength. The 0W-40 DOES
Mitch Haley wrote:
David Brodbeck wrote:
That'd net him a fine of $1212, assuming you didn't get caught stealing
his plates. ;) No license points, though. Since they can't prove who
was driving there's no other penalty -- just a $101 fine.
I see, just a tax on the owner with no
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 19:49:23 -0700 David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Peter Frederick wrote:
And a compression ratio of what, 12:1? My point is the much higher
compression ratio (hence higher loading) and film strength in the
crankpin journal bearing.
But that would have more to
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 19:57:09 -0400 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've been thinking about a related comment since before this thread -
I'm thinking a screw on top with a inlet and outlet - there's one that
came with my MityMite Vac kit - internally, one tube goes into the
bottom of the
Has the method of viewing the archives changed since the change to okiebenz?
I have tried to access it and guess I don't know how. Do tell.
I ask this because I want information on my glow plugs, and I know that this
has been discussed many times before.
Barring access to the archives, I'm
Isn't the critical point that you *enter* the intersection (presumably
meaning either your the front-most point of your car, or your front wheels
- I'm not sure which - cross the white line on the closer side of the
intersection) before it turns red - rather than that you *clear* the
intersection
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Isn't the critical point that you *enter* the intersection (presumably
meaning either your the front-most point of your car, or your front wheels
- I'm not sure which - cross the white line on the closer side of the
intersection) before it turns red - rather than that you
Very good points.
Sad though, that the average driver is brain-dead enough as to plow into the
driver in front of them if they choose to obey a traffic signal. Belive me,
I know - I was rear-ended by a Caddiliac as I stopped for a red light on my
motorcycle.
I think what you're describing
Hello Zoltan,
1st - the series Vs parallel question - OK - series is when the GPs are
hooked one after the other, i.e. #1 gets 12V, #2 is supplied by #1 (and has
a voltage loss), #3 is supplied by #2 - again with a voltage drop, and so
on.
The so-called Fast Glow Plugs are wired such that
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx
See the source for info
Bill
1981 300 TD
LT Don wrote:
John:
I think the Mobil 1 brand 0-W-40 is on the MB approved list for diesels.
Personally, I stick with the 15-W-50 stuff.
I would not run it in ANY MB of any
it's a 40 weight oil when cold that become a zero weight oil when cold?
do you see something disturbing about this logic?
On 9/30/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I, too, had shared this concern, until I read somewhere that the
higher number is the real viscosity, and the lower number is
David's right on the money. I got lucky in that my 'shop' vac is a
little old cannister with a hose that has a controllable leak built
into it's handle. Using the usual plastic bucket I just set the
vacuum leakage so the the bucket just barely starts to buckle and keep
an eye on it as the hot
I'm not disturbed by that at all, in fact I love it.
How can we be certain though that the oil will behave that way?
Bear with me, I never took chemistry. But when the my engine's health is in
the balance, this chemical wonder that is an oil switching viscosities based
on temperature has long
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 22:33:32 -0700 Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
You absolutely do not need the godzilla of vacuum cleaners for this
little chore.
I suppose that rules out King Kong, too. :-)
Craig
Great info. I'm inclined to ask though, which type did my model come with?
The series or the better type?
I seem to remember that the series type (that depend on eachother to have
voltage - which, by the way, seems like poor design) came on the older
models, and was phased out in favor of plugs
Zoltan Finks wrote:
I think what you're describing though, is people being so conditioned to the
common practice of squeaking every last millisecond out of a yellow (and
yes, red) light that if someone decides to act reasonably, they are posing a
danger with their unpredictability.
Pretty
rumor has it that Zoltan wrote:
Great info. I'm inclined to ask though, which type did my model come
with? The series or the better type?
I believe that the change from series to parallel was about 1980. My
'78 had series (till I converteded it), and my '81s have parallel.
I'm assuming that
rumor has it that Zoltan wrote:
How can we be certain though that the oil will behave that way?
You can't *smile*
You have to trust the oil company.
Bear with me, I never took chemistry. But when the my engine's
health is in the balance, this chemical wonder that is an oil
switching
Gary Hurst wrote:
it's a 40 weight oil when cold that become a zero weight oil when cold?
Not exactly. It doesn't get thinner as it gets colder, as you'd expect
from that description. It has the viscosity that a straight 40 weight
oil would at operating temperature, and the viscosity that
Fmiser wrote:
If you expect to have to start your engine at temps near 0F (-20 C),
then the 0W-40 can give let you reliable start the engine at temps 10
deg F (5 deg C) colder than 15W-40.
It *may* also decrease start-up wear. Thick oil takes longer to pump to
the bearings, and especially up
Joe Knight wrote:
Only difficulty
I've experienced is figuring out how long is enough. Five minutes is
more than enough, probably way more.
I always figured it was done when I heard that straw slurping in an
empty drink cup sound coming from the crankcase. I also had a clear
suction tube and
Hmmm. Well my faith has been re-restored in 0W oil.
If I can do anything to tilt the odds in my favor of having a relatively
easy start on those single-digit or below mornings, I'm for it.
Brian
83 240D
84 Saab 900
On 10/1/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Fmiser wrote:
If you
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/car/214266915.html
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
Synthetic or not I would recommend staying with specified or very near oil
weights...I use 15/50 Mobil one all year long in 616 and 617 engines in the
northeast./Tom Scordato
- Original Message -
From: Bill Gallagher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Multi-viscosity oils are rated xWy. The W is weight, an old
designation for viscosity. The x is the cold weight, the y is the
hot weight -- in other words, the oil has the viscosity of say, 10Wt
oil at zero and 40Wt oil at 300 degrees.
My concern is shear and film strength on the crankpin
The archives are the same. You access them by going to the list page.
There is a link at the bottom of each message. You will then see a
link on the list page that says archives.
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Has the method of viewing the archives changed since the change to okiebenz?
I have tried
No, not al all -- it means the viscosity does not change all that much!
Synthetics don't lose viscosity when hot nearly as much as dino oils do
(10 wt oil at 300F pours like diesel fuel, and has about the same
lubricating capacities, I believe!), while 40 or 50 wt dino oil at zero
F has to be
The point is that it DOESN'T change viscosity!
Peter
On Oct 1, 2006, at 12:55 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:
I'm not disturbed by that at all, in fact I love it.
How can we be certain though that the oil will behave that way?
Bear with me, I never took chemistry. But when the my engine's health
is
Peter Frederick wrote:
Multi-viscosity oils are rated xWy. The W is weight, an old
designation for viscosity.
I thought the W was Winter, specifying that it was measured
at a colder temperature than the regular viscosity rating.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1,1item=330033469435
6 airbags, traction control, intercooler. Nice ride. No affiliation.
Tempted, but must resist...
-Dave Walton
87SDL, 94S350, 99E300
It will probably stay cheap since the seller has bad feedback.
dave walton wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1,1item=330033469435
6 airbags, traction control, intercooler. Nice ride. No affiliation.
Tempted, but must resist...
-Dave Walton
87SDL, 94S350,
Ah, but you can bid with confidence. It says so, right in the Ad.
On 10/1/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It will probably stay cheap since the seller has bad feedback.
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (218k)
'84
I'll note
http://www.utc.fr/~tthomass/Themes/Unites/unites/infos/huile/
Publication_Oil_Sequences.pdf#search=%22ACEA%20documentation%
20Laboratory%20tests%22
Where one can actually understand what the oils have to meet in order
to achieve a certain ACEA rating
On 1-Oct-06, at 8:09 AM,
This sounds like it would cost way more than $2. Maybe $3 or4.
--R
archer wrote:
During the hurricane season last year Home Depot sold old fashioned five
gallon steel buckets with a fixed screw capped spout and a center cap. They
may still sell them. I doubt they would collapse using a
i recall a very wise lister saying There is nothing more expensive than a
cheap Mercedes. Think this holds here?
On 10/1/06, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Ah, but you can bid with confidence. It says so, right in the Ad.
On 10/1/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It will
Sunil Hari wrote:
i recall a very wise lister saying There is nothing more expensive than a
cheap Mercedes. Think this holds here?
I still contend that that's not quite true. A cheap BMW is more
expensive than a cheap Mercedes.
One beer is about right, 4 hours, see a doctor.
--R
Joe Knight wrote:
Only difficulty
I've experienced is figuring out how long is enough. Five minutes is
more than enough, probably way more.
David Brodbeck wrote:
I still contend that that's not quite true. A cheap BMW is more
expensive than a cheap Mercedes.
Agreed. And what about a cheap Porsche? I once avoided buying a cheap
Maserati by noticing that it had water in the oil. (1984 or 1985 Biturbo,
they had leakage problems at
Whoever said that doenst know how to work on their own cars, or what to
look for in a cheap Mercedes. I make money on cheap cars, nothing
expensive about that.
Sunil Hari wrote:
i recall a very wise lister saying There is nothing more expensive than a
cheap Mercedes. Think this holds here?
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