The turbos start in 1st. As I said before, if it doesnt, something is
wrong.
Luther wrote:
All of the 123/126's I've driven started in 1st gear. I double checked this
morning on the way to work in my SD (soon to be for sale...) and it will start
in first. Sometimes it will shift into 2nd
Thats no probem at all. She snores and farts all night though.
Gary Hurst wrote:
you are in the small room though as ragina is sharing my room with me
On 10/19/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
good
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89
Yes, I am sure I am right. I have been messing with those things for
over 15 years.
R A Bennell wrote:
Are you sure about that? I was sure that I was told the 115 is old enough that
it is only a 3 speed. So far as I am
aware, it only shifts twice and the gear it starts in is fairly low. I
BZT, WRONG. 116 450's are 3 speeds
Loren Faeth wrote:
even the 110 automatics were/are 4 speeds. MB never put a 2 speed or 3
speed auto in a car.
How many gears in a 300D?
2 in each of 4 doors = 8
4 to pump the oil = 4
2 in the steering gear = 2
2 in each front seat = 4
2 for each
Probably rub on engine components. I use a aftermarket product specifically
designed for the job, which is about 1/2 thick. Have had it on my 230E for
well over two years and still looks like new. I have heard people say that
the pad they bought from dealers is rubbish and not lasting. This is
I think you may try that first and let us know how Grandma's old rug does
under the bonnet.
- Original Message -
From: Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 2:13 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood pad life (or lack of)
Far as I know all four speed Merc boxes are designed to start in second, the
operators manual makes reference to this if I remember right.
The normal shift pattern is 2 3 4, selecting S will lock out 4th so the
shift pattern is 2 3, selecting L while driving will put the box in second
until you
Loads of 3 speeds went into Benzes, they actually are a superb gearbox.
- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 5:11 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] How many gears in an 83' 300D?
even the 110
http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQfrppZ50QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQrdZ0QQsassZokieQ2dbenz
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
So does Hurst.
(So I've heard...no personal knowledge)
_
Frank Pembleton
Manchester, MO
KLEB FOR PREZ!!
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 6:47 PM
Thats no probem at all. She snores and farts all night though.
Gary Hurst
They are dual piston ATE calipers, probably exactly the same as the
Porsche (and anything else European).
Very easy.
GENTLE use of compressed air works, but I usually just free the stuck
piston up with the brake pedal (remove that pad only, it will pop
loose) then use two screwdrivers or two
MB never put a 2 speed or 3 speed auto in a car.
No, our 450 SL has one. So far as I know, all MB automatics
were four-speeds with a fluid coupler. I thought they put
the 3-speeds into the V8 cars, but they had a torque converter
to make up for the lack of first gear. (Our SL will do about
is it a big deal rebuilding them or should I go ahead
and replace them?
They rebuild just fine. I use a grease gun filled with
water to pump out the pucks. (The threads are the same.)
-- Jim
Some cool stuff at that auction! Unfortunately due to employment
I couldn't stay for the whole thing. It was thinly attended due
to the rain, there were some nice deals. Such as the four-post
RV lift for $250. (Some assembly required.) I went for an hour
at lunch.
I didn't get the scale
actually, if you add violently scratching my scrotum, you pretty much have
me here.
On 10/19/06, Frank Pembleton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So does Hurst.
(So I've heard...no personal knowledge)
_
Frank Pembleton
Manchester, MO
KLEB FOR PREZ!!
-Original Message-
y'know, you guys need to remind which list i'm on!
geez, no wonder normal people stopped coming to klebnet
On 10/19/06, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
actually, if you add violently scratching my scrotum, you pretty much
have me here.
On 10/19/06, Frank Pembleton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi; My 79 240D starts in 2nd unless accel. is pushed down all they way to
floor, then downshifts to 1st
my 83 300D works the same; starts in 2nd unless accel. pushed down to
floor
My 1985 works this way; Starts out in 1st (it is a Calif. model) not sure
if Federal model is same?
All three cars
MB never put a 2 speed or 3 speed auto in a car.
As I recall, my '73 450SE was a 3-speed.
RLE
Mercedes has offered too many transmissions in too many different cars to
unilaterally say what gear a given car will start in. I think a 79 240D
should have a 722.117 and the 83 300D should have a 722.315 and both SHOULD
start in 2nd gear. The 85 CALIFORNIA version should have what is
Comes to mind that the life of rubber parts does not start when put into
service, but rather when produced.
These hoodpads may been on the shelve for 15 to 20 yeras.
I bought brand new fork spring gaiters for my '72 T100 Daytona and they
lasted one year.
I like That sounds like a Tank to be
Thanks Peter -
I tried an 11mm flare fitting wrench but it was damged before I got to it
and it looks like it'll be damaged farther getting things loose I have new
parts - except for the metal line on the passenger side - Rusty couldn;t get
it - perhaps it's been discontinued. I may need to
Must be so . I got mine off the shelf but seemed a little crumbly as if
it had aged .
mak
Comes to mind that the life of rubber parts does not start when put into
service, but rather when produced.
These hoodpads may been on the shelve for 15 to 20 yeras.
I bought brand new fork spring
Far as I know all four speed Merc boxes are designed to start in second,
the operators manual makes reference to this if I remember right.
T'ain't so! My 1970 4 spd. 111 coupe 4 speed automatic on the floor starts
in FIRST gear, however briefly, as does my 1983 300TD turbodiesel.
On
I will say this again, so everyone pay attention, The 123 and 126 turbo
cars start in FIRST. If they dont, something is wrong or misadjusted.
The older non turbo cars start in 2nd, will kick down into first if
kickdown switch is hit. The gas v8's with 4 speed trans(as in the
126's) start in
Hendrik typed:
I use a aftermarket product specifically
designed for the job, which is about 1/2 thick.
What is it exactly? Where can a dude with a crumbly hood pad see what you
used?
I replaced the one on the previous 300D I had and I seem to remember it was
going south after about 3 years.
You can say it as often as you want, it doesn't make you right.
On 10/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I will say this again, so everyone pay attention, The 123 and 126 turbo
cars start in FIRST. If they dont, something is wrong or misadjusted.
The older non turbo cars start
So, I started on the tensioner pulley RR last night, but ended up spending
more than an hour looking for my 10mm socket. So, I'm going to ask for the
collective knowledge of the list on tensioner pulley RR for the OM 603.
What are the gotchas? Can this be done with the radiator in place? TIA
This link might be of interest to some folks who are looking for an expanded
selection of rims for their 123 and early 126 vehicles. VW Bus/Vanagons run
the same 5x112mm - 30mm offset as 14 Bundt rims. YMMV
http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1935
--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I
I tried it last night on the way home from the office. Pulled it into L and it
did appear to be a bit lower than
normal. Not sure why MB bothered though. Unless I put a hitch on it and use it
to pull boats out at the launch
ramp, I'm not likely to ever need it.
Randy
-Original Message-
Howdy -
I was reading the procedure for adjusting the rear brakes and it tells
of removing a single wheel lug, - and adjusting the brakes thru the hole -
but it mentions the need to remove the Light Alloy Wheel. Does the standard
wheels on my '91 300D 2.5T count as light alloy in this
Larry,
On my departed 116 300SD, I always removed the wheel in order to
adjust the rear parking brake shoes... If for no other reason that
it allowed for greater vertical movement of the screwdriver and
greater movement of that thingy inside... If you can imagine a
clockwise
Yes - you can do it with the radiator in place - but it's a lot easier
with the shroud un-bolted, and perhaps the fan removed (can't
remember).
The only gotcha I ran into was that sinking feeling when it feels like
the threads are stripping when torquing the big bolt through the
tensioning arm
Besides Marshall anyone have any experience with the 110 chassis and the
200D. I looked at one today, very little rust at all, owner who is the 3rd
has done alot of work. Car has 100,000 miles all gauges work, original
radio works. Needs some door seals, an rear window seals. interior in
It was handy when starting out up hill, first thing on a cold morning,
before the engine had warmed up much ---
On 10/20/06, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I tried it last night on the way home from the office. Pulled it into L and it
did appear to be a bit lower than
normal. Not sure
Chuck nailed it - the light alloy wheels are thicker - giving you less
vertical movement, might not a full clickworth. I removed the steel
wheels anyway, just for that little bit of extra movement.
On 10/20/06, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Larry,
On my departed 116 300SD, I
Randy
A few things.
1. Good battery.
2. Convert from the looptype glow plugs to the filement type
mercedessource.com has a conversion around 100 dollars US and an easy job.
Biggest thing you can do.
3. Block heater. If you do not have one get one and put it in lower
radiator hose. KAT
On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 15:43:15 -0400 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
2. Convert from the looptype glow plugs to the filement type
mercedessource.com has a conversion around 100 dollars US and an easy
job. Biggest thing you can do.
Talk to our list sponsor (Rusty) at (800) 741-5252 about this. Yes,
On Fri, Oct 20, 2006 at 03:31:08PM -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Besides Marshall anyone have any experience with the 110 chassis and the
200D. I looked at one today, very little rust at all, owner who is the 3rd
has done alot of work. Car has 100,000 miles all gauges work, original
Hello Tom
Not really worried about cold weather starting in the long term. I don't drive
the car through the winter. I will
park it in the garage on Halloween and not drive it until probably April of 07.
I just have it on the street now as
I have another project sitting in its garage spot
I did my drivers license test in a '74 Saab. The only thing I vaguely
remember about the '85 era vehicles is that I think they have the extra
weird gear driven H2O pumps which are a bitch to RR, and leak into the sump
when they fail. I like Saabs...sort of.
On 10/20/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL
Curt, I had many 900's. Very nice car. Will run 200k+. Gearbox in the
85-88 were weak and usually gave out about 130k or so. I might have been
an exception, but I had really, really good luck with all of my 900's.
No electrical problems, they were spirited, economical and parts were
cheap.
I hate asking computer questions 'cause I'm such a friggin' rock when it comes
to these confusers, but here goes.
When ever there is a link within an email (like Kaleb's look-at-my-parts link)
and I try to click on it to go there, my computer just locks up. The cursor
arrow turns into the
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