Re: [MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not ambienttemp) iscold
Christopher McCann wrote: adjusted valves Saturday night and no change whatsoever, unfortunately. Chris Does the car have a silver or a gold rack damper screw and when was it last adjusted? Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Steering tightening an 83' 300D
Gary Thompson wrote: I believer the FSM states 25mm, which is more like 1 of play. That's why I don't like 123 series cars, and why just about every 107 I've ever looked at (that had service records) showed a box replacement at some point. 123 drivers are often willing to accept an inch of play, but 107 drivers seldom are... Gary Thompson Georgetown, TX 1995 E320 On 11/3/06, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've definitely got more than 1/2 at the steering wheel rim. And I'm looking at the pitman arm as I'm adjusting so I can't see how I could possibly be dealing with play in the wheel bearings or tie rod ends(though it seems as though nothing is simple in this steering system). (: 25 mm is MAX allowable play. Do NOT attempt to get play below 10-15 mm or the box will wear VERY fast. Often the play is the soft coupling on the steering shaft. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] DC mechanic
Redghost wrote: Need mechanic in DC for an old 240D. Anybody have good place to take a 76 to get a look at and made strong enough for a trip to Central America? Rick at PC Imports is as good as they get and is reasonably priced. http://rc-imports.com/ Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[MBZ] Squeak on startup
I'm getting a funny little squeak with a cold engine on my 87 300D. Can't hear it inside, I only noticed because I had to run back into work today right after I started the car. Sounds like a slipping belt, goes away as the engine warms up. Is this a bad tensioner pulley? I'd just as soon replace it now as wait til it breaks Peter
[MBZ] procedure to change Motor mounts on SDL
I got the mounts changed over the weekend and learned a couple of things. CHANGING MOTOR MOUNTS 126 CHASSIS, OM603 Diesel (300SDL) You need: 8mm allen socket 6mm allen socket. (the shorter the better) 10 mm socket socket drive extension (I used 12) 3/8 drive universal joint. Floppy handle socket drive. (you might call this a swivel-head rachet drive) Ramps Floor jack (bottle jack should work too) a short block of 2 x 6 Mini mag-light (AA battery size) Drive the car on the ramps Open the hood Crawl under, and remove the 8mm allen head capscrew that holds the RIGHT motor mount to the subframe. While under, remove the lower mount for the engine shock absorbers, so the engine can be lifted freely. (10 mm socket) Hold the block under the front of the oil pan, and jack up the engine until the right motor mount arm is about 1 1/2 inch above the rubber motor mount. Put the 6 mm allen socket on the u-joint drive, and the floppy handle rachet on that. Reach on top of the mount and remove the metal plate. (lift up and out) Note the position it is in for later re-assembly. Mark it if you want. Remove the inner allen bolt from the motor mount. Remove the outer allen bolt from the motor mount take out the old motor mount and put in the new one. Start the allen bolts in by hand using the 6mm allen socket to drive them with your fingers. Tighten down the bolts Replace the metal plate on top of the mount. Lower the engine onto the mount. Crawl under again Use the maglight to be sure the hole in the motor mount arm is in line with the hole in the motor mount. Put the 8mm allen socket on the 12 extension, and put the bolt on the allen socket. Using the light to assist, guide the bolt into the hole and screw it in about 3/4 of the way. It should turn easily by hand. Use a prybar to line things up if needed Remove the 8mm Allen head bolt form the other (LEFT) motor mount. (from below) Jack up the engine again, so the mount arm is about 1 1/2 inch above the mount. Get a milk crate or something to stand on by the left fender. Using the 6mm allen socket on the 12 extension with the drive, remove the outer allen bolt. (from above) Lift up and remove the metal shield over the motor mount, again noting and/or marking the position. Remove the inner allen bolt (6mm allen socket) Remove the old mount and put the new one in. Use the 6mm allen socket and the extension to screw in the 6mm allen bolts by hand. Tighten them with the rachet drive Replace the metal shield on top of the new mount. Lower the engine onto the mount. Use the maglight to be sure the hole in the motor mount arm is in line with the hole in the motor mount. Put the 8mm allen socket on the 12 extension, and put the bolt on the allen socket. Using the light to assist, guide the bolt into the hole and screw it in by hand. It should turn easily by hand. Use a prybar to line things up if needed. Tighten BOTH the 8mm allen bolts into the motor mount arms to about 45 ft-lb. Replace the engine shocks The driver's side is easy and can be done form the top, the right side mount is cramped and has to be done from underneath, unless you remove the exhaust manifold and turbo, or the entire engine. You have to unbolt the right mount blind, from underneath, backing the bolts out the top. The inner bolt is the most difficult. I cut loose both 8mm bolts and jacked up the engine first, because that is how I did it on older diesels. That does not allow enough space between the right mount and the right arm to get in a normal 6mm allen socket. That is why I wrote this procedure for the list. I also took time to make a stubby 6 mm finger drive from a 5/16 bolt, before it occurred to me to tie down the left side again. By leaving the left side lashed down, you can raise the right side enough to clear the allen socket and part of the universal joint. Likewise there is not enough space in there to get a normal 3/8 drive rachet., but my floppy handle rachet will fit with the handle pretty much straight down. Loren Faeth Loren Faeth
Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D, Noise in back end
You should check the u-joints - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 5:47 PM Subject: [MBZ] 1979 240D, Noise in back end Car is a 1979 240D, 123 chassis, daily driver with 102,000 original miles. I notice when I take my foot off the accelerator a low rumbling noise in the back end when I am coasting down a hill for example. No noise when the accelerator is on or cruise on. Just had the rear links replaced on rear tor. sway bar. Fluids are synthetic in the rear diffy and are full. Any thoughts on what could cause this? car runs exceptionally well with highway mileage in the high 20s low 30s mpg. Car shifts fine and tranny is fine. Just adjusted valves ect. Not a wheel bearing I do not believe or could it be?? Only makes the noise when you go to coast and it is a low rumbling noise, not excessively loud Jus wondering what project I face, thanks Tom ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/524 - Release Date: 11/8/2006
Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D, Noise in back end
Only makes the noise when you go to coast and it is a low rumbling noise, not excessively loud Put it in neutral and get back to us. Could be diff, its mounts, flex disk, or center driveline junk, including U joint. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 107 vacuum system
Does anyone have experience or a schematic for an 85 380SL 107 vacuum system? I am trying to troubleshoot an sl with hard operating door locks and a trans that started shifting harshly. Last week I found a vacuum leak Hadn't they switched to the electric pump system by then? For sure in '86 they had. Anyway, cork off the yellow line under the hood, that will disable the door system, if it's pure vacuum. Try this successively on all of them. (Green is ACC, etc.) Car ought to work well with only the brakes and the tranny hooked to vacuum. You need a MityVac if you own one of these cars. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch
OO I did not even know there was a pully timing degree wheel?? Where is it exactly??? Pretty much where it is on every car ever made: on the crankshaft pulley somewhere. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Interesting Tools
Question popped up on the MBCA 115 forum about a 615 engine and leak down as well as compression. Fellow took his car to mechanic who gives him compression numbers in the 320-340psi range with and claims that is low. Doesn't sound that low. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] procedure to change Motor mounts on SDL
One suggetion on tools. Have a stubby 6mm 1/4hex bit like comes in this set http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purposepid=00947488000vertical=TOOLsubcat=ScrewdriversBV_UseBVCookie=Yes and a driver such as this http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purposepid=00941715000vertical=TOOLsubcat=ScrewdriversBV_UseBVCookie=Yes That is how I remove the 6mm bolts on the motor mounts. Works really well, and is plenty low profile. Otherwise, a very well written article. Luther On Wed, 08 Nov 2006 19:22:29 -0600, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I got the mounts changed over the weekend and learned a couple of things. CHANGING MOTOR MOUNTS 126 CHASSIS, OM603 Diesel (300SDL) You need: 8mm allen socket 6mm allen socket. (the shorter the better) 10 mm socket socket drive extension (I used 12) 3/8 drive universal joint. Floppy handle socket drive. (you might call this a swivel-head rachet drive) Ramps Floor jack (bottle jack should work too) a short block of 2 x 6 Mini mag-light (AA battery size) Drive the car on the ramps Open the hood Crawl under, and remove the 8mm allen head capscrew that holds the RIGHT motor mount to the subframe. While under, remove the lower mount for the engine shock absorbers, so the engine can be lifted freely. (10 mm socket) Hold the block under the front of the oil pan, and jack up the engine until the right motor mount arm is about 1 1/2 inch above the rubber motor mount. Put the 6 mm allen socket on the u-joint drive, and the floppy handle rachet on that. Reach on top of the mount and remove the metal plate. (lift up and out) Note the position it is in for later re-assembly. Mark it if you want. Remove the inner allen bolt from the motor mount. Remove the outer allen bolt from the motor mount take out the old motor mount and put in the new one. Start the allen bolts in by hand using the 6mm allen socket to drive them with your fingers. Tighten down the bolts Replace the metal plate on top of the mount. Lower the engine onto the mount. Crawl under again Use the maglight to be sure the hole in the motor mount arm is in line with the hole in the motor mount. Put the 8mm allen socket on the 12 extension, and put the bolt on the allen socket. Using the light to assist, guide the bolt into the hole and screw it in about 3/4 of the way. It should turn easily by hand. Use a prybar to line things up if needed Remove the 8mm Allen head bolt form the other (LEFT) motor mount. (from below) Jack up the engine again, so the mount arm is about 1 1/2 inch above the mount. Get a milk crate or something to stand on by the left fender. Using the 6mm allen socket on the 12 extension with the drive, remove the outer allen bolt. (from above) Lift up and remove the metal shield over the motor mount, again noting and/or marking the position. Remove the inner allen bolt (6mm allen socket) Remove the old mount and put the new one in. Use the 6mm allen socket and the extension to screw in the 6mm allen bolts by hand. Tighten them with the rachet drive Replace the metal shield on top of the new mount. Lower the engine onto the mount. Use the maglight to be sure the hole in the motor mount arm is in line with the hole in the motor mount. Put the 8mm allen socket on the 12 extension, and put the bolt on the allen socket. Using the light to assist, guide the bolt into the hole and screw it in by hand. It should turn easily by hand. Use a prybar to line things up if needed. Tighten BOTH the 8mm allen bolts into the motor mount arms to about 45 ft-lb. Replace the engine shocks The driver's side is easy and can be done form the top, the right side mount is cramped and has to be done from underneath, unless you remove the exhaust manifold and turbo, or the entire engine. You have to unbolt the right mount blind, from underneath, backing the bolts out the top. The inner bolt is the most difficult. I cut loose both 8mm bolts and jacked up the engine first, because that is how I did it on older diesels. That does not allow enough space between the right mount and the right arm to get in a normal 6mm allen socket. That is why I wrote this procedure for the list. I also took time to make a stubby 6 mm finger drive from a 5/16 bolt, before it occurred to me to tie down the left side again. By leaving the left side lashed down, you can raise the right side enough to clear the allen socket and part of the universal joint. Likewise there is not enough space in there to get a normal 3/8 drive rachet., but my floppy handle rachet will fit with the handle pretty much straight down. Loren Faeth Loren Faeth ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
Re: [MBZ] Engine Cleaner/Cleaning Engine
Thanks, Bill. My pressure washer is a Sears, so I'll check on the spinner there as well as those at Home Depot. Gerry - Original Message - From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sears has a very useful 'spinner' that I use more than any of the others. Quite effective for cleaning with relative safety. A pinpoint that spins in ovals. Works well, but I do think it was about $40. BillR -Original Message- On Behalf Of LarryT Hi Archer, Most Pressure Washers use different sized nozzles based on the application. Mine has a pin point nozzle for concentrating the pressure along with 5 other nozzles progressively larger for wider areas. In addition to the ones that came with the Pressure Washer I believe Home Depot, etc sells additional nozzles for removing paint, cleaning driveways, etc. Check in the paint dept - at least that's where the stuff is in the nearby Home Depot, Lowes, etc. HTH's From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] I tried a 2200 psi pressure washer on the '83 300D. Really blasted the dirt and oil off. Happened to hit a belt with high pressure stream. It blew rubber right out of the belt; leaving only the fabric. Decided it might do the same to a gasket, so I haven't used it since. If the pressure could be reduced, this would seem to be a good way to clean a very dirty greasy engine, but the motor is governed to one speed and there is no way to reduce the pressure other than turning the nozzle which reduces the pressure too much. All suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Gerry '83 300D and 240D
Re: [MBZ] 107 vacuum system
This has yellow vacuum lines running all around, including one that disappears into the RF inner fender over the tire??? There are one or two that go through the firewall in the extreme left corner. I was planning to try pluggin those one at a time or all at once to see what happened. I found a vacuum cross right in front of that which was dry, so I changed that and sent her off to see if it helped any. No report yet. At 09:30 PM 11/8/2006, you wrote: Does anyone have experience or a schematic for an 85 380SL 107 vacuum system? I am trying to troubleshoot an sl with hard operating door locks and a trans that started shifting harshly. Last week I found a vacuum leak Hadn't they switched to the electric pump system by then? For sure in '86 they had. Anyway, cork off the yellow line under the hood, that will disable the door system, if it's pure vacuum. Try this successively on all of them. (Green is ACC, etc.) Car ought to work well with only the brakes and the tranny hooked to vacuum. You need a MityVac if you own one of these cars. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Loren Faeth
Re: [MBZ] 107 vacuum system
The one going to the RF inner fender is going to the reservoir for vacuum. Older cars didn't have an electric pump like the 126 so they had a few reservoirs atshed away inside the car. Jeff Zedic Toronto
Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D, Noise in back end
Flex disk or at least that is what Gump has On Nov 8, 2006, at 2:47 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Car is a 1979 240D, 123 chassis, daily driver with 102,000 original miles. I notice when I take my foot off the accelerator a low rumbling noise in the back end when I am coasting down a hill for example. No noise when the accelerator is on or cruise on. Just had the rear links replaced on rear tor. sway bar. Fluids are synthetic in the rear diffy and are full. Any thoughts on what could cause this? car runs exceptionally well with highway mileage in the high 20s low 30s mpg. Car shifts fine and tranny is fine. Just adjusted valves ect. Not a wheel bearing I do not believe or could it be?? Only makes the noise when you go to coast and it is a low rumbling noise, not excessively loud Jus wondering what project I face, thanks Tom ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] Interesting Tools
It is actually spot on for the engine according to the Benz manual. I had to convert bars to psi to figure out that is was perfect. On Nov 8, 2006, at 7:31 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: Question popped up on the MBCA 115 forum about a 615 engine and leak down as well as compression. Fellow took his car to mechanic who gives him compression numbers in the 320-340psi range with and claims that is low. Doesn't sound that low. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] Interesting Tools
On 11/7/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had planned to order some stuff from Harbor Freight - but after finding what I wanted I learned they do not offer a shopping cart - only a shopping list to take to the freakin store - I wonder how many sales that kind of policy cost them? There are two Harbor Freight websites, one for the retail stores and one for on-line shopping. www.harborfreight.com is the one with the cart, I think. Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] '94 E320 Wagon / Anyone Know These
Wow, that is a long list. I'm not sure I'm ready to jump into that. Are all of these issues found in the 1989-1991 TE wagons too, or just the E320 wagon? Thanks friends John Peterson Kingston, RI 1991 300D 2.5 84k Gary Thompson wrote: Just a couple of issues to keep in mind. 1) This is the 24-valve M104 motor, introduced in 1993. Very nice power and reasonable economy. 2) Prone to engine wiring harness failures. Not too difficult to DIY replace if you can keep organized, but kind of expensive (~ $800?). Very expensive if you have a pro do it. 3) Cruise control/throttle control unit suffers from the same wiring issues as the rest of the harness. Easy to replace, but expensive ( ~$1000 for new, $400 for rebuilt). 4) A/C evaporator failure is a major disaster. Book time to replace is somewhere near 15 hours for a pro, maybe a little less for someone who does them every day. Almost the entire interior has to come out to get to it. I've been quoted in the neighborhood of $3000 by a guy who does several a week. I've heard anywhere from 10 to 70% of these fail depending on your regional climate. Must have something to do with the number of expansion/contraction cycles it has to undergo during normal operation. 5) EGR tubes tend to plug up. Mercedes has released a new part which is better, but it's a minor PITA to replace without pulling most of the top bits off the engine first (fuel rail, intake manifold, etc.) 6) Some people have experienced head gasket failures such that oil will start to leak between the head an block on the left side. I've heard this typically started to appear between 60 and 90K miles, so you might take a close look at this. Other than that, a great car. Handles very well, reasonable power, lots of room. If you can find one with a newer wiring harness and a known good evaporator, I'd say go for it. Gary Thompson Georgetown, TX 1995 E320 129Kmiles On 11/8/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm seriously considering a '94 E320 wagon for my family- I couldn't get everything in to my 1991 300D. What do we know for strengths and weaknesses of these cars? What should I look for on one with 94k on it? John Peterson Kingston RI 91 300D 2.5 84k ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] ACC Dash sensor foam tube on 83' 300D
So, I finally got behind the glovebox to look for this infamous foam tube for the dash sensor on my 83' 300D, that if suitably replaced will supposedly give me a system that does something other than I want it hot! or I want it cold!. Sure enough there was a hunk of gunky, sticky foam stuff between a couple lengths of seemingly regular rubber and/or plastic hose. It was suggested that a piece of belled hose such as that from the radiator reservoir makes a good replacement. I don't have a junk car to use and I haven't made it to the FLAPS to see if they have a nice cheap replacement so i was wondering what my other options might be. If the idea is simply to get some flow, but not full flow air through, how appropriately sized does the belled hose need to be? Could I just use one larger piece of hose over top of the smaller? I.e. the I.D. of one hose matches the O.D. of the other. Could I simpy get a regular piece of hose and put some holes in it? As for explanation of the system, is it basially just trying to get some low flow of air over the sensor by pulling from the blower motor? Is it also sampling outside air? I found a broken hose that seems to be heading out the side of the car right in front of the passenger door and the other end seems to come from near where the air temp sensor is. I think I've mostly got it sealed up now with some electrical tape. Thanks! Levi
Re: [MBZ] ACC Dash sensor foam tube on 83' 300D
Sure enough there was a hunk of gunky, sticky foam stuff between a couple lengths of seemingly regular rubber and/or plastic hose. It was suggested that a piece of belled hose such as that from the radiator The 'perfect' replacement is a length of 1/2 peel-and-stick foam pipe insulation from the hardware store. Cheap, too. On my 560 SL I bought (from the dealer no less) the official replacement. I've learned a bit since then, and everything else has fed from the same length of foam insulation I bought awhile ago. If the idea is simply to get some flow, but not full flow air through, The idea was to get air flow, without coupling blower noise through. Cars with an aspirator motor (126, etc.) dispense with the foam section. Could I just use one larger piece of hose over top of the smaller? I.e. the I.D. of one hose matches the O.D. of the other. That's exactly what the original was, as is the suggested replacement. As for explanation of the system, is it basially just trying to get some low flow of air over the sensor by pulling from the blower motor? Yes. Without that flow in-cabin temperature regulation is largely nonexistent. As you've found. Is it also sampling outside air? No. I found a broken hose that seems to be heading out the side of the car right in front of the passenger door and the other end seems to come from near where the air temp sensor is. I believe that's a water drain for the air intake plenum. -- Jim
[MBZ] Blower motor oiling on 83' 300D
Also got in there and took a look at the blower motor on my 83' 300D that is periodically blowing fuses. Not all the time, but every now and then. Someone mentioned oiling the bearing and felt scraper with 30W might help lessen it's draw. Well I got the motor out, but I didn't see any obvious access to bearings. I had some thick almost gel-like oil in a spray can with a straw (though it's so thick it just drools, never sprays) and got in as near as I could through the blower fan on one end and in-between the brushes on the other end. Not sure where this felt scraper was or if I got to the right area, or if there's more I'm supposed to disassemble, but it seems like I'm either going to break the plastic fan trying to force it off the shaft, or have to bend metal on the other end to get any better access... I've never had one out before and turned it on. MAN those things move a LOT of air. (: Also, along the same lines, are there 3 or 5 total possible speeds for the fan? I was thinking someone had said that there was basically the top speed 5 which could only be accessed via the top fan button, a lowest speed 1 which could only be accessed via the bottom fan button, and then the auto button chose between speeds 2,3 or 4. But I was monkeying with it more lately, and I'm not sure I can tell much difference between the high and low push buttons and the max or min speeds that auto reaches... And lastly, if I were to give the blower motor it's own upgraded wiring to handle a 20amp fuse for full speed, Is there a simple way so that I can do that without interfering with the ACC system? I'm tempted to just put in my own switch for max speed, but it would be nice if it were just integrated with the ACC system so that it functions as it does now, simply with an extra fuse and a little bit of wiring. I guess what I really need is to find a wiring diagram(preferably one that just dealt with the blower motor). I'm having trouble trying to figure out where the wiring goes with the control unit in the center dash, the resistors way out behind the passenger headlight, and then the motor back in the passenger footwell...(not to mention the fuse over on the drivers side). Thanks! Levi
Re: [MBZ] ACC Dash sensor foam tube on 83' 300D
Jim, that's the perfect answer I was looking for! Cheap, simple and precise! Now, let me make sure i have it right. I have some of that insulation at home that has a slit down the side where it would slip over the pipe and I don't believe it's self stick. If I'm remembering correctly, the stuff you're talking about is the same except that the slit has some self adhesive on it so that once it's slipped sideways over the pipe, the seam will stick back together and seal itself off? THANKS! Levi (: On 11/9/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sure enough there was a hunk of gunky, sticky foam stuff between a couple lengths of seemingly regular rubber and/or plastic hose. It was suggested that a piece of belled hose such as that from the radiator The 'perfect' replacement is a length of 1/2 peel-and-stick foam pipe insulation from the hardware store. Cheap, too. On my 560 SL I bought (from the dealer no less) the official replacement. I've learned a bit since then, and everything else has fed from the same length of foam insulation I bought awhile ago. If the idea is simply to get some flow, but not full flow air through, The idea was to get air flow, without coupling blower noise through. Cars with an aspirator motor (126, etc.) dispense with the foam section. Could I just use one larger piece of hose over top of the smaller? I.e. the I.D. of one hose matches the O.D. of the other. That's exactly what the original was, as is the suggested replacement. As for explanation of the system, is it basially just trying to get some low flow of air over the sensor by pulling from the blower motor? Yes. Without that flow in-cabin temperature regulation is largely nonexistent. As you've found. Is it also sampling outside air? No. I found a broken hose that seems to be heading out the side of the car right in front of the passenger door and the other end seems to come from near where the air temp sensor is. I believe that's a water drain for the air intake plenum. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Steering tightening an 83' 300D
Well, before I think about going out and messing with this replacement gearbox that's already adjusted out a ways, is there some guide to how far the adjusting screw can be tightened outwards before I start messing up the seal and causing a leak as happened in my last box? (assuming of course that I'm reaching the end of adjustment/life on the box) Thanks! Levi On 11/8/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Gary Thompson wrote: I believer the FSM states 25mm, which is more like 1 of play. That's why I don't like 123 series cars, and why just about every 107 I've ever looked at (that had service records) showed a box replacement at some point. 123 drivers are often willing to accept an inch of play, but 107 drivers seldom are... Gary Thompson Georgetown, TX 1995 E320 On 11/3/06, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've definitely got more than 1/2 at the steering wheel rim. And I'm looking at the pitman arm as I'm adjusting so I can't see how I could possibly be dealing with play in the wheel bearings or tie rod ends(though it seems as though nothing is simple in this steering system). (: 25 mm is MAX allowable play. Do NOT attempt to get play below 10-15 mm or the box will wear VERY fast. Often the play is the soft coupling on the steering shaft. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not ambienttemp) iscold
It has the updated screw, forget what color. It was installed about 1 year ago. But there is no engine loping (if that is the right word), i.e the engine does not vibrate at idle after the engine has warmed up just a little bit (1 minute)...although it does vibrate/shudder hard when trying to start if the accelerator is not pushed half way down and the idle plunges before the engine gets a little warm (under a minute) with accompanying shuddering and then stall...ditto with putting it in gear before it has had its TINY warm up time. If it's the rack damper screw, is it needing to go in or out? Chris Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Christopher McCann wrote: adjusted valves Saturday night and no change whatsoever, unfortunately. Chris Does the car have a silver or a gold rack damper screw and when was it last adjusted? Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2006 GSD, Anke -1985 300SD, 217K, Wulf -1982 300Dt, 117K, little blue klatter box -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, One Banger - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Nov 09 14:02:49 2006 Received: from nf-out-0910.google.com ([64.233.182.189]) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1GiAUT-0007Bb-A3 for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 09 Nov 2006 14:02:49 + Received: by nf-out-0910.google.com with SMTP id i2so902344nfe for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 09 Nov 2006 06:01:51 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.82.123.16 with SMTP id v16mr92026buc.1163080910673; Thu, 09 Nov 2006 06:01:50 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.82.145.2 with HTTP; Thu, 9 Nov 2006 06:01:50 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 08:01:50 -0600 From: Gary Thompson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] '94 E320 Wagon / Anyone Know These X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2006 14:02:50 - My list is pretty much for the M104-engined models from 1993 to 1995. Don't know much about M103-based the pre-93's. It looks like a long list, but the trick is to find a car where someone else, preferrably under warranty, has already corrected the major flaws. Once that is done, it's pretty much the same bullet-proof Mercedes we've all come to know and love. My car was previuosly owned by the head tech at the Mercedes dealearship in Austin. He was pretty good about taking care of all the latent issues except for the evaporator. Wish that had gone out on his time as well. I've been sweating through the last two summers 'cause I'm too cheap to pay someone else to do it, and my list of honey do's is so long I never get down to the stuff I'd like to do. My daughter just wrecked her car last week, so now I'm off to the salvage yard in search of Honda Civic front end parts. With 4 kids and a 100 year old house, it never ends... Gary Thompson Georgetown, TX 1995 E320 On 11/8/06, John Peterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Wow, that is a long list. I'm not sure I'm ready to jump into that. Are all of these issues found in the 1989-1991 TE wagons too, or just the E320 wagon? Thanks friends John Peterson Kingston, RI 1991 300D 2.5 84k
Re: [MBZ] Blower motor oiling on 83' 300D
Someone mentioned oiling the bearing and felt scraper with 30W might help lessen it's draw. Well I got the motor out, but I didn't see any obvious access to bearings. Yeah, that sounds about right. If it was easy everybody would be doing it! Also, along the same lines, are there 3 or 5 total possible speeds for the fan? I was thinking someone had said that there was basically the top speed 5 which could only be accessed via the top fan button, a lowest speed 1 which could only be accessed via the bottom fan button, and then the auto button chose between speeds 2,3 or 4. That sounds about right. I believe it's in the factory ACC service manual, but there are a number of variations on that system. My manual says that AUTO runs between 2-5. 3-5 when on defog (not defrost). Full speed is setting #6. But I was monkeying with it more lately, and I'm not sure I can tell much difference between the high and low push buttons and the max or min speeds that auto reaches... If it works good, it _is_ good! And lastly, if I were to give the blower motor it's own upgraded wiring to handle a 20amp fuse for full speed, Is there a simple way so that I can do that without interfering with the ACC system? I'm tempted to just put in my own switch for max speed, No, that's tacky. Hurts resale value too. I guess what I really need is to find a wiring diagram(preferably one that just dealt with the blower motor). I'm having trouble trying to figure out The factory ACC service manual is a good starting place. Unfortunately the scans of the schematic diagrams are some of the worst ever made. where the wiring goes with the control unit in the center dash, the resistors way out behind the passenger headlight, and then the motor back in the passenger footwell...(not to mention the fuse over on the drivers side). Don't forget the blower speed switching unit behind the glove box. :-) That would probably be where you ran the auxiliary fused wire, were you to do such a thing. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Interesting Tools
Hi Alex, Thanks! I rec'd another catalog yesterday and noticed the different sites - I saw stuff I wanted to buy on the HarborfreightUSA website and was able to use the harborfreight.com website to ordder the stufff avoid visiting the store. Thanks again! Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 1:47 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Interesting Tools On 11/7/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had planned to order some stuff from Harbor Freight - but after finding what I wanted I learned they do not offer a shopping cart - only a shopping list to take to the freakin store - I wonder how many sales that kind of policy cost them? There are two Harbor Freight websites, one for the retail stores and one for on-line shopping. www.harborfreight.com is the one with the cart, I think. Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/524 - Release Date: 11/8/2006
Re: [MBZ] Blower motor oiling on 83' 300D
Ok, didn't even know about that one... So, if I'm thinking this correctly... There is a switch behind the glovebox (where exactly? Or what does it look like? I was back there the other day and there seems to be a good bit of junk in there) so all I would have to do is upgrade the wiring from the motor to ground or positive (I'm assuming one of them is on all the time and it's only switching either the positive or the ground) then upgrade the wiring from the motor to the switch, and then upgrade a single power line from the switch to the battery with a fuse since full speed shouldn't deal with those resistors up front, right? Levi (: On 11/9/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The factory ACC service manual is a good starting place. Unfortunately the scans of the schematic diagrams are some of the worst ever made. where the wiring goes with the control unit in the center dash, the resistors way out behind the passenger headlight, and then the motor back in the passenger footwell...(not to mention the fuse over on the drivers side). Don't forget the blower speed switching unit behind the glove box. :-) That would probably be where you ran the auxiliary fused wire, were you to do such a thing. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] ACC Dash sensor foam tube on 83' 300D
insulation at home that has a slit down the side where it would slip over the pipe and I don't believe it's self stick. Mine, and all that I've seen, has a peel-off plastic strip down each side of the slit. You install the insulation in place and then peel out the strips, exposing the adhesive which you press together sealing the pipe. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Blower motor oiling on 83' 300D
Hmm, I'm looking at the manual and the first thing I'm wondering is what does this mean: For perfect operation of automatic climate control, the manually operated air inlets in instrument panel should not be closed altogether. What air inlets in the instrument panel are they talking about? The temp sensor? The center vents? Levi On 11/9/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I guess what I really need is to find a wiring diagram(preferably one that just dealt with the blower motor). I'm having trouble trying to figure out The factory ACC service manual is a good starting place. Unfortunately the scans of the schematic diagrams are some of the worst ever made. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Blower motor oiling on 83' 300D
For perfect operation of automatic climate control, the manually operated air inlets in instrument panel should not be closed altogether. By 'inlet', they mean inlet to the car. Outlets, in standard English. Don't close them all, on the 123 the 'eyeballs' twist to open and close. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Blower motor oiling on 83' 300D
Ok, didn't even know about that one... So, if I'm thinking this correctly... There is a switch behind the glovebox (where exactly? As is completely obvious from the manual (! :-) the ACC system produces an analog voltage corresponding to the speed it wishes the blower to operate at. Depending on the vintage of the car, either a relay box (behind the glove box) switches in and out the dropping resistors, or the porcupine (which you don't have) regulates the blower current steplessly. You would update the main power feed to this switching box. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch
No problem - in the front of the engine between the crank pulley and the engine you should see a timing wheel with degrees marks - something like 40-0-40 in 10 degree increments - you'll have a hard time seeing it behind the fan blades and other stuff - but the fan belt on the pully will be a give-away. With the cam set to Zero, read the degrees below - there's also a metal tab which sticks out over the degree wheel so you can tell *exactly* where it is degree-wise. If it were a gas engine a strobe light would make it wasy to see. You may have to clean the degree wheel off some - they collect grease and junk. In the attached manual section Page 6, part 24 is the degree wheel and part 14 is the pointer. Gotta go for tonight - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 1:32 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch OO I did not even know there was a pully timing degree wheel?? Where is it exactly??? Regards Tom - Original Message - From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 10:14 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch Tom, Did you look at the crank pully timing degree wheel when the cam marks were aligned? If you didn't check, you;ll need to re-align the cam tower marks and cam mark - then look at the degree wheel on the crank pully to read the degrees away from Zero it is. Sorry if I didn't make that clear --- Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 7:12 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch Larry T, thank you. My cam lobe on the cam shaft the first one closest to the radiator #1 cylinder, was sticking out to the right almost 90 around 90 degrees at 3:00. (when standing and looking towards front windshield) when the marks matched up perfectly. Was in the same position as the photo in the MB manual so I assume we are in good standing./Tom - Original Message - From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch Hi Tom, As the engine rotates - and it must *only* be turned in the normal direction of travel, BTW - you'll see the cam lobes turn and alternately open/close the valves. When both of the high parts of the cam over #1 are pointing more or less up, it'll be on TDC - but the scale on the crank is the final authority. Once close, you should be looking to get the mark on the cam aligned with the notch in the cam tower closest to the radiator. But, even if you miss the spot by just a little don't be tempted to turn the engine backwards to the mark - just crank the engine over again and watch the cam until the mark is close. It can be frustrating as often the compression will not allow the engine to stop at the proper point. Just be patient. Once you've done it once it will seem very easy. Good luck - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 4:39 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch How do you know #1 cly is at tdc?/Tom - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 9:18 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch why do you need a dial indicator to check chain stretch? You simply rotate the engine around till you line up with TDC on the crank, then slowly turn it till the lines on the cam shaft line up, then look at the crank and see how many degrees you are off. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Have to adjust valves again has it been 20K allready since I did it? Bought a dial gauage and want to test the stretch and timing while I am in there. Anyone now exactly what size threaded piece with thread size I need or can describe it to bolt into engine to
Re: [MBZ] ACC Dash sensor foam tube on 83' 300D
you can use a piece of heater hose, but it will transmit blower motor noise thru the dash. Go to a plumbing supply place, or maybe lowes, and get some of that foam tubing stuff. Levi Smith wrote: So, I finally got behind the glovebox to look for this infamous foam tube for the dash sensor on my 83' 300D, that if suitably replaced will supposedly give me a system that does something other than I want it hot! or I want it cold!. Sure enough there was a hunk of gunky, sticky foam stuff between a couple lengths of seemingly regular rubber and/or plastic hose. It was suggested that a piece of belled hose such as that from the radiator reservoir makes a good replacement. I don't have a junk car to use and I haven't made it to the FLAPS to see if they have a nice cheap replacement so i was wondering what my other options might be. If the idea is simply to get some flow, but not full flow air through, how appropriately sized does the belled hose need to be? Could I just use one larger piece of hose over top of the smaller? I.e. the I.D. of one hose matches the O.D. of the other. Could I simpy get a regular piece of hose and put some holes in it? As for explanation of the system, is it basially just trying to get some low flow of air over the sensor by pulling from the blower motor? Is it also sampling outside air? I found a broken hose that seems to be heading out the side of the car right in front of the passenger door and the other end seems to come from near where the air temp sensor is. I think I've mostly got it sealed up now with some electrical tape. Thanks! Levi ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not ambienttemp) iscold
In. Even with the new screw, it still has to be adjusted sometimes. Christopher McCann wrote: It has the updated screw, forget what color. It was installed about 1 year ago. But there is no engine loping (if that is the right word), i.e the engine does not vibrate at idle after the engine has warmed up just a little bit (1 minute)...although it does vibrate/shudder hard when trying to start if the accelerator is not pushed half way down and the idle plunges before the engine gets a little warm (under a minute) with accompanying shuddering and then stall...ditto with putting it in gear before it has had its TINY warm up time. If it's the rack damper screw, is it needing to go in or out? Chris Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Christopher McCann wrote: adjusted valves Saturday night and no change whatsoever, unfortunately. Chris Does the car have a silver or a gold rack damper screw and when was it last adjusted? Marshall -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] ACC Dash sensor foam tube on 83' 300D
I will try the foam stuff, but if that's the only thing I doubt I'd even worry about it. My 300D isn't exactly quiet with the exhaust missing between the downturn after the turbo and the connection at the tranny! Levi (: On 11/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: you can use a piece of heater hose, but it will transmit blower motor noise thru the dash. Go to a plumbing supply place, or maybe lowes, and get some of that foam tubing stuff. Levi Smith wrote: So, I finally got behind the glovebox to look for this infamous foam tube for the dash sensor on my 83' 300D, that if suitably replaced will supposedly give me a system that does something other than I want it hot! or I want it cold!. Sure enough there was a hunk of gunky, sticky foam stuff between a couple lengths of seemingly regular rubber and/or plastic hose. It was suggested that a piece of belled hose such as that from the radiator reservoir makes a good replacement. I don't have a junk car to use and I haven't made it to the FLAPS to see if they have a nice cheap replacement so i was wondering what my other options might be. If the idea is simply to get some flow, but not full flow air through, how appropriately sized does the belled hose need to be? Could I just use one larger piece of hose over top of the smaller? I.e. the I.D. of one hose matches the O.D. of the other. Could I simpy get a regular piece of hose and put some holes in it? As for explanation of the system, is it basially just trying to get some low flow of air over the sensor by pulling from the blower motor? Is it also sampling outside air? I found a broken hose that seems to be heading out the side of the car right in front of the passenger door and the other end seems to come from near where the air temp sensor is. I think I've mostly got it sealed up now with some electrical tape. Thanks! Levi ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] ACC Dash sensor foam tube on 83' 300D
I usually just use heater hose myself, just take the hard plastic part do a parts store a get a piece that fits snug over it. The noise is really very little noticable. Levi Smith wrote: I will try the foam stuff, but if that's the only thing I doubt I'd even worry about it. My 300D isn't exactly quiet with the exhaust missing between the downturn after the turbo and the connection at the tranny! Levi (: On 11/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: you can use a piece of heater hose, but it will transmit blower motor noise thru the dash. Go to a plumbing supply place, or maybe lowes, and get some of that foam tubing stuff. Levi Smith wrote: So, I finally got behind the glovebox to look for this infamous foam tube for the dash sensor on my 83' 300D, that if suitably replaced will supposedly give me a system that does something other than I want it hot! or I want it cold!. Sure enough there was a hunk of gunky, sticky foam stuff between a couple lengths of seemingly regular rubber and/or plastic hose. It was suggested that a piece of belled hose such as that from the radiator reservoir makes a good replacement. I don't have a junk car to use and I haven't made it to the FLAPS to see if they have a nice cheap replacement so i was wondering what my other options might be. If the idea is simply to get some flow, but not full flow air through, how appropriately sized does the belled hose need to be? Could I just use one larger piece of hose over top of the smaller? I.e. the I.D. of one hose matches the O.D. of the other. Could I simpy get a regular piece of hose and put some holes in it? As for explanation of the system, is it basially just trying to get some low flow of air over the sensor by pulling from the blower motor? Is it also sampling outside air? I found a broken hose that seems to be heading out the side of the car right in front of the passenger door and the other end seems to come from near where the air temp sensor is. I think I've mostly got it sealed up now with some electrical tape. Thanks! Levi ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch
Thanks Larry!/Tom - Original Message - From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Tom Scordato [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 9:47 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch No problem - in the front of the engine between the crank pulley and the engine you should see a timing wheel with degrees marks - something like 40-0-40 in 10 degree increments - you'll have a hard time seeing it behind the fan blades and other stuff - but the fan belt on the pully will be a give-away. With the cam set to Zero, read the degrees below - there's also a metal tab which sticks out over the degree wheel so you can tell *exactly* where it is degree-wise. If it were a gas engine a strobe light would make it wasy to see. You may have to clean the degree wheel off some - they collect grease and junk. In the attached manual section Page 6, part 24 is the degree wheel and part 14 is the pointer. Gotta go for tonight - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 1:32 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch OO I did not even know there was a pully timing degree wheel?? Where is it exactly??? Regards Tom - Original Message - From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 10:14 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch Tom, Did you look at the crank pully timing degree wheel when the cam marks were aligned? If you didn't check, you;ll need to re-align the cam tower marks and cam mark - then look at the degree wheel on the crank pully to read the degrees away from Zero it is. Sorry if I didn't make that clear --- Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 7:12 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch Larry T, thank you. My cam lobe on the cam shaft the first one closest to the radiator #1 cylinder, was sticking out to the right almost 90 around 90 degrees at 3:00. (when standing and looking towards front windshield) when the marks matched up perfectly. Was in the same position as the photo in the MB manual so I assume we are in good standing./Tom - Original Message - From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch Hi Tom, As the engine rotates - and it must *only* be turned in the normal direction of travel, BTW - you'll see the cam lobes turn and alternately open/close the valves. When both of the high parts of the cam over #1 are pointing more or less up, it'll be on TDC - but the scale on the crank is the final authority. Once close, you should be looking to get the mark on the cam aligned with the notch in the cam tower closest to the radiator. But, even if you miss the spot by just a little don't be tempted to turn the engine backwards to the mark - just crank the engine over again and watch the cam until the mark is close. It can be frustrating as often the compression will not allow the engine to stop at the proper point. Just be patient. Once you've done it once it will seem very easy. Good luck - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 4:39 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch How do you know #1 cly is at tdc?/Tom - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 9:18 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch why do you need a dial indicator to check chain stretch? You simply rotate the engine around till you line up with TDC on the crank, then slowly turn it till the lines on the cam shaft line up, then look at the crank and see how many degrees you are off. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Have to
Re: [MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not ambienttemp) iscold
OK, I'll bite, where and what is the Rack Damper Scrfew? And where might I find it in the WSM? ;-) Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 11:09 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not ambienttemp) iscold In. Even with the new screw, it still has to be adjusted sometimes. Christopher McCann wrote: It has the updated screw, forget what color. It was installed about 1 year ago. But there is no engine loping (if that is the right word), i.e the engine does not vibrate at idle after the engine has warmed up just a little bit (1 minute)...although it does vibrate/shudder hard when trying to start if the accelerator is not pushed half way down and the idle plunges before the engine gets a little warm (under a minute) with accompanying shuddering and then stall...ditto with putting it in gear before it has had its TINY warm up time. If it's the rack damper screw, is it needing to go in or out? Chris Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Christopher McCann wrote: adjusted valves Saturday night and no change whatsoever, unfortunately. Chris Does the car have a silver or a gold rack damper screw and when was it last adjusted? Marshall -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/525 - Release Date: 11/9/2006
[MBZ] oil analysis
Larry, any Mercedes list specials currently? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] DC mechanic
Mitch Carr's Inc. 4232 Howard Ave. 301.493.9460 Hal is on vaction, ask for Mitch. Rhonald 1985 300D 291,000 miles Black/Palomino Original Message Follows From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] DC mechanic Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 19:30:40 -0500 Redghost wrote: Need mechanic in DC for an old 240D. Anybody have good place to take a 76 to get a look at and made strong enough for a trip to Central America? Rick at PC Imports is as good as they get and is reasonably priced. http://rc-imports.com/ Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _ Try Search Survival Kits: Fix up your home and better handle your cash with Live Search! http://imagine-windowslive.com/search/kits/default.aspx?kit=improvelocale=en-USsource=hmtagline
Re: [MBZ] I'm back
Welcome back Marshall.Mike - Original Message - From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:57 PM Subject: [MBZ] I'm back Just took a walkabout! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Let's Rumble, Going into 3rd my 85 300 DT does.
Hi all As the transmission starts into 3rd gear (I think) the car feels like its running over rumble strips. A heavy foot makes it more harsh and easing off softens the rumble. Once it shifts, it smooths out, however, at 70 mph when I hit a rough spot, like a bridge end, there is a hint of the rumble that quickly goes away. It is next to get my work stall and I am looking for hints on what to check first. Any ideas? Could a flex disk cause this? Thanks Harry
[MBZ] OT: Sleeper
Um...this is different http://www.blinkerfluid.org/video/T1inLaSource-2.wmv (the real action happens about halfway through the vid) And, this explains how it's done: http://www.race-taxi.ch/ And we thought the Finns were wild... -- Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler/propane injection #22 (219k) '84 300D (218k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
Re: [MBZ] why would anyone want to buy this?
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Trap-Oxidizer_W0QQitemZ250047249279QQihZ015QQcategoryZ46097QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Put it on a car, take it to a dealer, and try to talk them into giving you a new exhaust and turbo?
Re: [MBZ] OT: Sleeper
And the best bit is that this is NOT the Nurburgring. It's SPA!!! Wowee, I want to drive there!
Re: [MBZ] Let's Rumble, Going into 3rd my 85 300 DT does.
flex disk or center support. Harry Watkins wrote: Hi all As the transmission starts into 3rd gear (I think) the car feels like its running over rumble strips. A heavy foot makes it more harsh and easing off softens the rumble. Once it shifts, it smooths out, however, at 70 mph when I hit a rough spot, like a bridge end, there is a hint of the rumble that quickly goes away. It is next to get my work stall and I am looking for hints on what to check first. Any ideas? Could a flex disk cause this? Thanks Harry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] why would anyone want to buy this?
uh, no, the look up the VIN, they would tell if it had been done before. David Brodbeck wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Trap-Oxidizer_W0QQitemZ250047249279QQihZ015QQcategoryZ46097QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Put it on a car, take it to a dealer, and try to talk them into giving you a new exhaust and turbo? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] oil analysis
Hi Luther, Well, since you asked - I just added a $5 discount on a 3 or 4 pack from now until 12/31/06. It wll ask for the secret word which is diesel. I thought about getting cute and making the code word something like I love my Mercedes but decided against it ;-)\ Thanks for thinking of me -- Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:48 PM Subject: [MBZ] oil analysis Larry, any Mercedes list specials currently? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/525 - Release Date: 11/9/2006
Re: [MBZ] OT: Sleeper
WOW! Either that's a slow Aston Martin and Porsche or that VW Bus belongs in the Guiness Book of Records! It must have a V12 in it! For the fans of Spa and the amazing corner called Eu Rouge, I suggest you check out a video called In Car 956 which features Derek Bell driving a Porsche 956 on various tracks around the world, including Spa, LeMans, Silverstone, Japan and others. ewa1.com has it for $27 but it's on eBay elsewhere often. Man! I just cannot get over that VW Bus - ;-) Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 2:13 PM Subject: [MBZ] OT: Sleeper Um...this is different http://www.blinkerfluid.org/video/T1inLaSource-2.wmv (the real action happens about halfway through the vid) And, this explains how it's done: http://www.race-taxi.ch/ And we thought the Finns were wild... -- Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler/propane injection #22 (219k) '84 300D (218k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/525 - Release Date: 11/9/2006
Re: [MBZ] Squeak on startup
Hi Peter, Sometimes the belts will squeak - especially if not a MB belt. Had an aftermarket AC belt that caused all kinds of problems until I got a OE belt. Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 7:23 PM Subject: [MBZ] Squeak on startup I'm getting a funny little squeak with a cold engine on my 87 300D. Can't hear it inside, I only noticed because I had to run back into work today right after I started the car. Sounds like a slipping belt, goes away as the engine warms up. Is this a bad tensioner pulley? I'd just as soon replace it now as wait til it breaks Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/524 - Release Date: 11/8/2006
Re: [MBZ] oil analysis
SWEET! I sent in my last kit just the other day. Just a note to others, if you aren't into oil analysis yet you might not want to start, it can be a little addicting... -Curt Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 15:00:15 -0500 From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] oil analysis To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original Hi Luther, Well, since you asked - I just added a $5 discount on a 3 or 4 pack from now until 12/31/06. It wll ask for the secret word which is diesel. I thought about getting cute and making the code word something like I love my Mercedes but decided against it ;-)\ Thanks for thinking of me -- Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ - Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Nov 09 21:02:07 2006 Received: from 24.svnf1.xdsl.nauticom.net ([209.195.153.153] helo=odie.pinebluff.net) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtps (TLSv1:AES256-SHA:256) (Exim 4.52) id 1GiH2F-0006ek-7u for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 09 Nov 2006 21:02:07 + Received: from odie.pinebluff.net (localhost.localdomain [127.0.0.1]) by odie.pinebluff.net (8.12.8/8.12.8) with ESMTP id kA9L13P5031293 for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 9 Nov 2006 16:01:03 -0500 Received: (from [EMAIL PROTECTED]) by odie.pinebluff.net (8.12.8/8.12.8/Submit) id kA9L12ed031291; Thu, 9 Nov 2006 16:01:02 -0500 X-Authentication-Warning: odie.pinebluff.net: apache set sender to [EMAIL PROTECTED] using -f Received: from 208.22.104.18 (SquirrelMail authenticated user kslater); by www.pinebluff.dyndns.org with HTTP; Thu, 9 Nov 2006 16:01:02 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 16:01:02 -0500 (EST) From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.3a-1 X-Mailer: SquirrelMail/1.4.3a-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Importance: Normal X-Virus-Scanned: ClamAV 0.88.3/2179/Wed Nov 8 21:17:29 2006 on odie.pinebluff.net X-Virus-Status: Clean X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: [MBZ] Project to tickle your brains with.. X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2006 21:02:09 - Our 79 240D had a partial cluster replacement from our crushed 82 300D which included replacing the clock with the clock / tach from the 300D's cluster. I know that there are likely parts missing from the 240D engine compartment to drive said tach. How about using an embedded device (like a Basic Stamp or similar) and counting some pulse coming from the alternator and using that to drive the tach input? Would that work? Thoughts? Jim?
Re: [MBZ] OT: Sleeper
If you haven't already checked it out, I strongly encourage ya'll to open up the link labeled PROJEKT at this site: http://www.race-taxi.ch/ It's an amazing chronicle of an insane projekt. Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler/propane injection #22 (219k) '84 300D (218k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
Re: [MBZ] Project to tickle your brains with..
Sensor on the crankshaft pulley and an LED or LCD display? Would not be hard to make with a simple sensor, chip and display. (Not that I know how to do that yet, but I have been reading about it quite a bit and am going to order a kit to start some PIC programming. This kind of stuff appears to be really simple, only a few dollars worth of parts too). --R Kevin J. Slater wrote: Our 79 240D had a partial cluster replacement from our crushed 82 300D which included replacing the clock with the clock / tach from the 300D's cluster. I know that there are likely parts missing from the 240D engine compartment to drive said tach. How about using an embedded device (like a Basic Stamp or similar) and counting some pulse coming from the alternator and using that to drive the tach input? Would that work? Thoughts? Jim?
Re: [MBZ] OT: Sleeper
The bus has a bi-turbo Posche 3.6l with extra intercooling and a GT3 gearboxsix speed. If you follow the link that is what you'll find out at racetaxi. He used a VW transporter lower body/chassis, with the 1962 microbus welded on after widening it to fit. Then he added the 996 suspension arms with Bilstein dual rate coil over race shocks. He has 99 or so photos of the complete projekt. Jeff Zedic Toronto
Re: [MBZ] Project to tickle your brains with..
Rich Thomas wrote: Sensor on the crankshaft pulley and an LED or LCD display? Would not be hard to make with a simple sensor, chip and display. (Not that I know how to do that yet, but I have been reading about it quite a bit and am going to order a kit to start some PIC programming. This kind of stuff appears to be really simple, only a few dollars worth of parts too). Here's a how-to page for doing it on a VW, using an optical encoder on the injector pump sprocket and a 4-cylinder gasoline engine tach: http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/Tachometer/index.shtml You could do something similar on a Mercedes using the crank sprocket, although it'd be a little trickier to mount everything right. Since the crank turns at twice the speed of the camshaft or injector pump, you'd use an encoder wheel with two light and two dark segments, instead of four.
Re: [MBZ] Ultra Wicked Low Sulfer Fuel
Bob Rentfro wrote: Now that that new fuel is out there, I've heard several dudes at the workplace say they are starting to see leaks develop, lots more black smokin', etc. A vast majority of these guys have pre Powerchoke Fords (the 7.0 I think). Is this to be expected? Is this a big co-inky-dink? If I missed the low sulfer fuel thread, I'm sorry but do we have something to worry about? I have read some engines may need additives, but that infor was put out by companies who make additives. This explains what's likely to leak and why. Most stations have been adding ULSD to the contents of their diesel tanks since late June/early July and more than 80% of what's NOW being delivered to stations IS ULSD (15 ppm). Some stations haven't reached a point where they can call the blend (mix of 500 and 15 ppm) of fuel they are serving ULSD, but it's a lot closer to 15 ppm than it is to 500 ppm. http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/fuels/diesel/documents/elastomer_chevron_tb_2005Aug.pdf Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[MBZ] them damn germans
So I thought I would change the tranny fluid and fix the leak that has kept the car parked for a year or so (560SEL), its leaking out of the cover on the govener/rear pump whatever it is on the back passenger side. Just need to get my snap ring plyers in there and pull that cover and try and replace the little seal under there. Would probably be best just to swap in a whole new govener/pump/whatever from another tranny. Damn germans used allen bolts to mount it. Thats great while the tranny is out of the car, but nearly impossible to get the allen wrench seated in the bolt to remove them with it in the car. Crap, why couldnt they have just used regular bolts you can get a wrench on? -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] them damn germans
That would be Un-German now wouldn't it? They think it should be done out of the car so why not pull the trans? (Their thinking NOT mine) Vee haff vays uf doink sings Jeff Zedic Toronto
Re: [MBZ] them damn germans
+Im thiking it just might be easier to pull the tranny. I already unhooked the driveshaft to try and get the back of the tranny to drop more but it didnt help much. Jeff Zedic wrote: That would be Un-German now wouldn't it? They think it should be done out of the car so why not pull the trans? (Their thinking NOT mine) Vee haff vays uf doink sings Jeff Zedic Toronto ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
