Just saw a movie preview on TV tonight. It stars that guy from The
Office and 40 Year Old Virgin (two things that I have successfully
avoided seeing).
We had the sound muted, but they focused in on a close shot of a TE or
TD for such a period of time that it looked like the scene was calling
After much chiseling, and some tracing, I think I found
the genesis of this generator's general grunge. (Hey,
_you_ try to find a 'g' word that's better!)
The small diode bridge has every diode blown, shorted,
and its feed trace gone too. Perhaps it's the shorted
'protective' MOV on its output?
There is one for sale that you can find in the Craigslist posting sent by Clay.
Here's the url:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/431419769.html
Rear end damage. Don't know if it's a good deal or not, just noticed it.
Brian
On 9/25/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb:
Open circuit voltage of 12.5 indicates a good batery. 13.7 volts would
have been voltage with alternator charging ( nor a few seconds
afterwards ). Need to keep an eye on why the electrolite levels are
dropping though.
PEter
-Original Message-
From: archer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Thanks, not a bad idea , what about raising the rear wheels and running
car and looking underneath for issues?
Peter
-Original Message-
From: Hendrik [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 25 September 2007 16:22
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Engine Vibration
The easy
It seems than at Tue, 25 Sep 2007 23:18:06 -0700, Jim wrote:
The small diode bridge has every diode blown, shorted,
and its feed trace gone too. Perhaps it's the shorted
'protective' MOV on its output?
Bad design. If you're going to use a MOV, a wear
component, put it where it can be
Thanks for the reply Ned ! 360k !! WOW ! Is that without any rebuilds ?
VIK MOMJIAN
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I know its probably been described to death , but how does the timing
chain stretch measurement on the OM60x differ from the OM617 engines?
, - can one view the crank position at the front pulley?
Peter
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Only two of the six battery cells were 'way low on electrolyte. I think
they were not filled at the factory. Haven't been low since I filled them
with water but their specific gravity is lower than the other four cells.
Beginning to think that the alternator is charging only some of the time.
Hard to determine vibration issues by just looking, also unless done
properly can be dangerous. Mercedes does recommend that the bolts not be re
used, although some do but I am not mentioning any names.
- Original Message -
From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion
I got a chance to test drive that 300TE that I got my eye on, seemed alright
except for a real clunky 4-3 shift. You know when you are cruising along and
give it a bootfull, usually the downshift should be smooth but in this car
it is real neck snapping clunky.
I am guessing something is a bit
Nope - I'm with you, though I have closer to 100 hours in a Citabria.
Those guys are good.
On 9/26/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I wish - though I doubt that a Citabria would be competitive in that race
--- I wonder if they have Formula Vee category --
I hope you are not
Only two of the six battery cells were 'way low on electrolyte. I
think
they were not filled at the factory. Haven't been low since I filled
them
with water but their specific gravity is lower than the other four
cells.
And you are assuming they had the correct amount of ACID put
in at
So, are you planning to rebuild the original?
Yes, assuming I haven't destroyed too many components
with the chisel. There's a couple of resistors that
are open-circuit now. One broke in half, another
got a nice peel job, the ceramic case is gone off
of one, etc.
The two big heat-sinked pass
That is a possibility
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: John Freer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] CL Detroit 1986 (?) 300d
So it may
I was driving by a minor wreck several years ago involving some teenagers
driving a 240D. I REALLY wanted to stop and offer to buy it, but I
refrained.
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes
how can you tell, there is no pic of the engine.
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] CL Detroit 1986
If you recall, I posted about this preview about a month ago. The movie is
called I think Dan in real life or something like that. The preview I saw
featured that 280TE quite a bit.
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Zoltan Finks
Its is the same procedure. yes, you can see the crank position
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 2:20 AM
Subject:
Probably worn flex disks.
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 4:50 AM
Subject: [MBZ] clunky downshift 300TE
I got a
Modern car batteries are fill forget. And because of this, the younger
guys gals at the auto stores don't have a clue. They just test replace.
I suspect that you purchased a battery that had been spilled or incorrectly
filled and the problem probably did not occur at Advance Auto. The
In replacing my rear breake line I also found several
leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber buffers are.
The buffers are great places for dirt and water to be
held in place to corrode these lines over time.
For the past month I've been seraching out fuel lines.
Mercedes no longer makes them.
Richard,
I don't have enough knowledge about your particular model but do have a
bit of general mechanical experience with a lot of different vehicles.
Not being there to hear what the engine actually sounds like when it is
turning over to hear if there are compression pulses when the starter
This is the hard line that runs all the way to the front? If so then the
tech is correct. I'd suggest that you crimp with good clamps, like stainless
steel Oetiker clamps.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL
I've got/had all three. I think the 103 is better in a 124
body. The SDL is the world's most wonderful car. The 123 with a OM
616/617 is very reliable and inexpensive to operate. I'd RUN FAST
away from a recently welded head. Unless you have a good head and
don't mind changing it.
At
sounds to me that the lesson here is that junk is still junk and ought to be
avoided, whatever the price.
On 9/26/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So, are you planning to rebuild the original?
Yes, assuming I haven't destroyed too many components
with the chisel. There's a couple of
You can do it that way. Rusty can get you new lines as well. I ordered
ones from Rusty for a 6.9 a while back. They should still be available.
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Fred Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
Needle in the red zone is bad.
Fix whatever cause the coolant loss, then watch for oil or gas in the
coolant. The head, once it gets that hot (and it was MUCH hotter than
the temp gauge) tends to crack, warp, or collapse. You will also
likely get premature head gasket failure.
The side of
The marks on the cam and tower are different -- right at the top as I
remember. You read the crank position off the front pulley.
If more than 4 degrees, replace chain.
Peter
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Last night Jill informed me that the car's ACC seems to be heating too
much, and that she turns on the AC to tame it. This time of year?
Something's wrong. I pulled the monovalve and found signs of dried
coolant in the spring washer, and its solenoid plunger was
waterlogged. The seal diaphragm,
I can't find one specific for an 89 300TE but here is the price of a 93
300TE 2.6
In the paper this morning.
--R
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Patch or replace are both OK, as long as the line is decent except for
the spots you are patching. If you replace it, or splice in new pipe,
get some that isn't zinc galvanized on the inside, diesel and zinc
don't mix well.
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For new
Peter,
Glad to hear you survived what could possibly have been much worse.
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
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You might also consider getting a 25' roll of copper tubing, it's easier to
hand form.
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seems it may be looming trouble. time to replace the head gasket
now.clean the waterways and reface the head .
regards
mak
- Original Message -
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 6:45 PM
Thanks for the reply Ned ! 360k !! WOW ! Is that without any rebuilds ?
VIK:
No rebuilds on engine or transmission. Only things I recall replacing on
the engine are the fuel injectors, glow plugs, vacuum pump, exhaust system
with cat (ouch) and maybe water pump / belts / hoses type stuff.
WOW, thats a good deal
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 9:07 AM
Subject: [MBZ] try again 99E300D, 87300TD for sale
You might also consider getting a 25' roll of copper tubing, it's
easier to
hand form.
Diesel eats copper. Don't do this.
-- Jim
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sounds to me that the lesson here is that junk is still junk and ought
to be
avoided, whatever the price.
If price was no object, I'd have bought a better one, new.
Junk is often junk because of only a few weak places. Or
so I've found. Sometimes you can correct them.
-- Jim
The main thing is to keep the main thing the main thing and you made it, way
to go Peter.
Harry
On 9/26/07, Glenn Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Peter,
Glad to hear you survived what could possibly have been much worse.
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
___
On 9/26/07, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I can't find one specific for an 89 300TE but here is the price of a 93
300TE 2.6
Gentlemen, thank you as always for your sage adivice.
Tom, where would I be able to buy Oetiker clamps?
Thanks,
Fred
--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You might also consider getting a 25' roll of
copper tubing, it's
easier to
hand form.
Diesel eats copper. Don't do this.
You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to the vacuum created by
the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck with Nylon-6 tubing
from Mcmaster.com . I use a more flexible tubing to join the nylon to
the existing metal in a butt-joint by covering both pieces and using
spring clamps. I
Those Oetiker clamps look good. I'll give them a try.
Thanks Tom.
-Dave Walton
On 9/26/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This is the hard line that runs all the way to the front? If so then the
tech is correct. I'd suggest that you crimp with good clamps, like stainless
steel Oetiker
smartass -- let my msg with the scanned image of the ads through and
everyone will be happy. Or maybe you already snapped them up?
--R
Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote:
WOW, thats a good deal
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From:
I want to find (fabricate if necessary) an adequate spring compressor for my 85
300SD. There is not a hurry but I intend to keep the car until 'death' (it's or
my own ). I currently do not have an internal type compressor. (I have an
external type for use with struts). KD makes an internal
You know that we rent the Klann spring compressor for $75.00?
Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax 770-454-9745
- Original Message -
From: George Larribeau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 12:22
I would be able to replace the complete line with
Nylon 6 tubing if I follow your logic. I'd prefer
this to patching.
--- dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to the
vacuum created by
the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck with
Nylon-6
It is a good deal for the person willing to work the problems out. I
suspect jim cathey will be able to find the parts to make it whole,
where as I seem to only find really old parts cheap.
clay
On 25 Sep 2007, at 23:27, Zoltan Finks wrote:
There is one for sale that you can find in the
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 8:50 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto
Only two of the six battery cells were 'way low on
Tom Hargrave wrote:
Modern car batteries are fill forget. And because of this, the younger
guys gals at the auto stores don't have a clue. They just test
replace.
Gerry: That seems to be the case, but some stores will give you the benefit
of the doubt and let you show them why a part is
I agree with the tech. Gump has rubber lines connecting to the solid
lines at the tank, and then more rubber to make the bend up to the
engine from under the car. No low tech return line rubber, but
hardier stuff like the cigar hose is made of. If it is exposed to
the elements in a
You still have to do something with the ends. You can order nylon that
will fit snugly inside the existing flexible tubing at the gas tank
and lift pump - the same way the current metal tubing does.
I use a larger size tubing and did the overlap thing with the existing
hose, rather than fit inside
On 9/26/07, archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I usually buy one of Consumer Reports higher rated batteries. Should have
gotten a jump at the store and the next day at home and then went and bought
a NAPA which was the top rated battery. Duh! Live and learn.
Gerry, which NAPA line did CR
Rusty Cullens wrote:
You know that we rent the Klann spring compressor for $75.00?
I would not consider fabricating this one.
Klann is the factory tool. Costs many hundreds of $$$.
SIR is tolerable as a cheap substitute, costs a few hundred.
No idea if KD is up to the task, but if it's got
Rent Rusty's when you need it. Cheap, easy, fast and it is the proper
tool that will not kill you.
--R
George Larribeau wrote:
I want to find (fabricate if necessary) an adequate spring compressor for my
85 300SD. There is not a hurry but I intend to keep the car until 'death'
(it's or my
Would something like this work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Troy-1-Ton-Hydraulic-Coil-Strut-Spring-Compressor-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ003QQitemZ130155502475QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
-Dave Walton
On 9/26/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Rusty Cullens wrote:
You
Thanks to whoever suggested I check the front pump seal. That's great
news. Will do. Sorry I lost the message with your name. Much
appreciate it!
Dan
82 300SD 293k
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Cost on these now is $965.00 plus shipping. Renting is the only way to go.
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BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax 770-454-9745
- Original Message -
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007
No.
Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax 770-454-9745
- Original Message -
From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..
I just used one to remove the front springs on my 99 E300.
The local Harbor Freight had it on sale for $56.
It took a little wiggling to get it in place, but it handled the job quite well.
However, Harbor Freight no longer lists it on their website, so there
may have been too many incidents. Or
Dave, I pass by a Harbor Freight on the way home and
will look tonight. I was also thinking about the
overlap thing.
While I don't do WVO, I do get free 3-5 gallon pails
of vegetable oil occasionally, food service business.
I add a gallon or two at each fill up to stretch the
$3.20/gal.
On 9/26/07, archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I usually buy one of Consumer Reports higher rated batteries. Should
have
gotten a jump at the store and the next day at home and then went and
bought
a NAPA which was the top rated battery. Duh! Live and learn.
Gerry, which NAPA line did CR
Any overheating is harmful overheating. Thats why its OVERheating.
The coolant turns to steam, expands 6x (or more I don't really remember) and
breaks things.
Anyway should this happen in the future remember that with just a dead
alternator you're actually in pretty good shape. A few years ago
I don't like our Autozone very much but I like Advance Auto alot less. Which is
too bad the store LOOKS like it ought to have all kinds of good/cool stuff, it
just doesn't...
Anyway on the subject of batteries I used to be stuck on the idea of Diehard as
the way to go. Then when the battery
What to kill yourself with? Absolutely.
Dave remember that everybody on the list is saying something like the right
tool costs HUNDREDS of dollars and If you don't use the right tool you'll
DIE.
Do you really want to try a cheapo tool on this? Is your life worth the money.
-Curt
Date: Wed,
mess with a spring under high pressure, and your demise might be sooner than
you think.
i once removed a spring from a VW rabbit front strut with a $9 spring
compressor. scariest thing i've ever done.
On 9/26/07, George Larribeau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I want to find (fabricate if
You caught me - I was looking the pics of the Chicago '87 300d that
were posted earlier - wrong car!
On 9/26/07, Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
how can you tell, there is no pic of the engine.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and
Oh, I guess I assumed that my other post about my alternator going bad
would be related to this one.
Yeah, it was the belt getting thrown - I assume by bad alternator
bearings. Or perhaps the egg came before the chicken, but whatever.
Brian
On 9/26/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I appreciate the input.
Saying it won't work is different than saying you should not use it.
To be honest, after handling one to do the job, I find it to be
adequately heavy-duty to be used safely. I prefer the quick hydraulic
operation to manually tightening and loosening a bolt.
One man's
And then there's the challenge issue. If price is no object, then
there is no challenge to overcome when buying new. You get a lot of
satisfaction from turning a POS into a good useful tool, etc.
Heck - some of us get vicarious satisfaction from Jim's exploits!
Reading about them is a lot more fun
I bought an Autozone battery one year that it was top rated in CU. It
lasted well. I dealt mostly with Autozone for while until they started
demanding that we write down our name, address, telephone number, etc. when
we dumped used oil.
Gerry
--
Replaced the ball joints on my '83 300D with two jacks but was puckerin' the
whole time. Never do it again.
Gerry
---
- Original Message -
From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mess with a spring under high pressure, and your demise might be sooner
I am no expert on this, but when I was having that clunk [like someone was
hiding in the trunk with a sledge hammer] it was a vacuum problem. Went ok
for a year after I got it fixed, but I am not having a rebuilt put in.
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD 295k miles
-Original Message-
How does this sound to y'all?
About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
and its shock.
and about $160 to replace the thermostat.
The alternator the guy wants to sell me is some $350.
He won't accept outside parts.
Is this price what I should expect?
Anybody want
Most shops mark up parts 100% that is part of how they make money, and
why they often refuse to install parts you provide.
Allan
Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
How does this sound to y'all?
About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
and its shock.
and
Makes me glad I'm working on my own stuff.
Tom
www.kegkits.com
Original Message
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 09/26/07 01:53 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
How does this sound to y'all?
About
what kind of benz cost $120,000 in 1989?
I think Hendrik was referring to Aussie dollars not USD.
Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
2006 Sprinter PV 1.7Kmi, die Kiste
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Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?
Brian
Give ya $501.00
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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Consider yourself lucky that you were puckering all the way and not
squashed half way through.
A guy who used to live across the street flew med flight choppers. They
responded to a call where some guy's car fell on him - no head left to
speak of.
You can not move fast enough to get out of the
I bought a 300SD with stuck CC servo drawing 0.4A. It had a five year old
Autozone Duralast group 49 in it. I spent a couple of days driving it
home with no trouble. After I got it home, I ran it dead twice before
I found the electrical problem and took out the climate control fuse
(it was an
Rusty Cullens wrote:
Cost on these now is $965.00 plus shipping. Renting is the only way to go.
That's why I said to hire an independent mechanic with the right tools
(or find a dealer who remembers what a 12x chassis looks like) or rent
yours. I do wish I'd had the spare $$ to buy a Klann
About double what Rusty charges for the alternator.
Either find another mechanic or rustle up several different sources for the
alt, print 'em and take 'em in with you, preferably when he's busy.
Tell him you don't mind taking it in the behind but you'd like him to lube you
up first.
-Curt
Where's the nearest MBZ dealer?
How much do they want for the parts, and will they let you bring your
own as long as they don't have to redo it for free if your parts fail?
Any bozo at the dealership should be able to handle these jobs, even
if there's no place to plug their computer terminal
Does it not seem odd that the car just lost power and coasted to the side of
the road if something major broke? One
would think that the driver would have noticed and reported some significant
bang or noise or bucking or something
noteworthy if there was a major malfunction with the engine at
R A Bennell wrote:
Does it not seem odd that the car just lost power and coasted to the side of
the road if something major broke?
The operator may be one who only notices a problem when the car stops moving.
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Dropping a car on one self from an 'ignorant' spring removal process would
be extra special stupidly. But hey, ever watch 'Jack Ass' ?? I guess any
thing is achievable. I've all ready ruled out jacking them in or out . I've
done this on other things in the past with mixed results. Another
How does this sound to y'all?
About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
and its shock.
and about $160 to replace the thermostat.
The alternator the guy wants to sell me is some $350.
He won't accept outside parts.
Is this price what I should expect?
Well, maybe. My younger son plays music that might drown out the sound of the
motor throwing several rods out
through the oilpan at one time. However, it just makes me wonder if there is
anything really bad that happened
given the description that the car lost power and coasted to a stop.
As an
Since there is an abundance of IT folks on this list:
What are the best/least expensive to operate color laser printers
that will do duplex?
11x 17 desirable.
Prefer printers under $2500.
Does anyone have recent cost per page info of various manufacturers/models?
Brother HL-4070CDW Color Laser
Has he done anything to verify that the head is still OK (leak down
test)? If not, I'd be leery of spending $910 on it, to find out that
you also need a new head.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,
Zoikes, I didn't think that running the needle up to about the red
mark for a moment or two would put me in that much danger!
Good thought though, on the money.
I really didn't let it dwell at top temp for more than like a minute or so.
Brian
On 9/26/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Has he
On 9/26/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Zoikes, I didn't think that running the needle up to about the red
mark for a moment or two would put me in that much danger!
Good thought though, on the money.
I really didn't let it dwell at top temp for more than like a minute or so.
A
We have an HP Color Laserjet 2600n. Given that we are a not-for-profit and
not known for spending the big bucks, I suspect that it is good value for
the money.
On 9/26/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Since there is an abundance of IT folks on this list:
What are the best/least
Get a new mechanic
Take the alternator to a rebuild place or just order a NEW one from
Rusty for half the rebuild cost. I rebuilt, but should have bought
new for cost saving. Did the install my self. No shop labor charge
or price gouging.
I am sure braindead island has a host of reliable
My shop would not warrantee the part, but did back their labor to
install. I just told them I had world pac drop ship to me. They
could not compete on cost there, so I happily paid the labor, since I
screwed up the work in the first place.
clay
On 26 Sep 2007, at 11:58, Allan Streib
OK Don wrote:
Has he done anything to verify that the head is still OK (leak down
test)? If not, I'd be leery of spending $910 on it, to find out that
you also need a new head.
Autozone has radiator pump/gauge pressure testers for loan.
___
Sent this earlier, doesn't look like it got through
George Larribeau
I just used one to remove the front springs on my 99 E300.
do you mean the KD thing ??
PS:
I don't want to start an 'incident' on the list. Just asking. It may be
true about the factory tool however I wish to pursue
Cost per page is basically dependent on toner cartridge/tank (or
whatever vessel it comes in) costs -- check to see what the avg page
count is and then figure it out. Of course, finding that info might be
difficult as the manfs don't want you to know that the are in the razor
blade business,
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