Re: [MBZ] AC BLOWS ICE COLD

[Dieselhead]

 Ja,but not so much after you have to buy a new compressor.  That is 
why I liked the hondog compressor adaptation I wrote up a few years 
ago.   I think it cost me $25.



Now, after nearly $ 500 -- no A/C.


That would have bought 50 years of biannual
fillups with test refrigerant.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] pressure washers

[Hendrik Fay]

Girl, go and get and get a MB Diesel powered one and cut through 2'' steel.

Hendrik
who has a Cummins powered pressure washer and has just about cut the 
world in half


Jim Cathey wrote:

All good points about bigger is better


I had a modestly-sized/-priced one, and the first time I went to
strip the deck paint off it was like washing the kitchen floor
with a toothbrush.  I bought a bigger 11HP Honda-powered one,
and never looked back.

-- Jim





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[MBZ] OBDII software

[Rich Thomas]

I see this free software, and down in the menus it references a Mercedes
version under development.  A cheap reader and this software and yer in
bidness.

http://www.obdtester.com/

--R


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[MBZ] Test Refrigerant

[Rich Thomas]

Suppose that someone might need to test an R12 system, on say an 84 
300SD, with a test refrigerant.  Who might be able to provide an idiot's 
guide to doing that?  What equipment would be needed to connect up the 
test refrigerant container to the R12 system?  What sort of gauges would 
be needed to monitor this process?  Where does one get a test 
refrigerant?  One could know that the system was at one point BLOWING 
ICE COLD with R12 in it so that one would assume the system is generally 
in working order except that the refrigerant leaks out over time, such 
that a test refrigerant would help diagnose any disorders in the system 
prior to recharging with the proper refrigerant under all applicable 
laws and guidelines and such.


--R

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[MBZ] Non-Hot Hot Rods was Re: Classic Cars?

[Donald Snook]

Curt wrote: I think its my memories from high school in the early 90's where 
an early-mid '80s Mustang was an available POS. A friend had a 4cyl automatic 
that was a particularly galling piece of junk.

A friend of mine had one the 4 Cyl mustangs.  It was a decent car in terms of 
reliability, but performance sucked.  It was a shame to call it a mustang.  His 
was so bad, we called it The Gelding

My uncle had a small used car lot.  He would always try to help my brother and 
I find cars when we inevitably wrecked ours.  He called me when I was 17 and 
was so excited because he had traded for a Camaro.  This was 1989 and all the 
rich kids at School at Camaros and firebirds.  The Jocks had them too, but they 
were older.  So, I was excited about possibly getting a Camaro, too!  (I was 
not a jock or a rich kid, but wanted a cool car.   So, I show up at the Lot 
to see the car.  It was going to be in my price range.  I was disappointed at 
best.  It was a Camaro. It was in very nice shape.  However, it was turd brown 
and had a 4 cyl engine.  Instead of being cool, it was the luxury version with 
wire wheel covers and ugly pinstriping and of course, the worthless 4 cyl 
engine.


Donald H. Snook
McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn  Herrington, P.A.
300 West Douglas
P.O. Box 207
Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
Tel. (316) 263-5851
This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client privilege or 
protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you have received this 
message in error, please delete it and notify me.

http://www.mtsqh.com/

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Re: [MBZ] 1982 300D again

[Max Dillon]

Move fast!

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Kevin Kraly kr...@comcast.net wrote:

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/2456120463.html_
http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search 
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[MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Max Dillon]

What kind of local store would carry citric acid in bulk? Local health food 
place sells food grade but 1 kg will cost about $50.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Rusty Cullens]

I have the Mercedes stuff for $17.00 per pound.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 10:39 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush


What kind of local store would carry citric acid in bulk? Local health 
food place sells food grade but 1 kg will cost about $50.


Max
--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

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Re: [MBZ] OBDII software

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 7:07 AM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 I see this free software, and down in the menus it references a Mercedes
 version under development.  A cheap reader and this software and yer in
 bidness.

 http://www.obdtester.com/

Sort of. You still won't be able to do everything the factory tools
can.  Fancy-pants cars like Mer-say-deez have their own connectors
besides OBDII, and a lot of important codes and data come up only on
the proprietary connector.  (Gummint requires only that
emissions-related stuff come up on OBDII.)  I've researched this quite
a bit---here's the cheapest solution I've found for late-model Benzes:
http://www.autoenginuity.com/products-software.html#EI17

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Test Refrigerant

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 7:13 AM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 Suppose that someone might need to test an R12 system, on say an 84 300SD,
 with a test refrigerant.  Who might be able to provide an idiot's guide to
 doing that?

I can't believe I'm writing this, but the best A/C for Dummies guide
I have found was a $10 DVD near the checkstand at AutoZone.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Mitch Haley]

Max Dillon wrote:

What kind of local store would carry citric acid in bulk? Local health food 
place sells food grade but 1 kg will cost about $50.


Food grade from Tate  Lyle is about $75 for a 50lb bag (plus huge shipping) on 
eBay. I'm sure it's no more than $1 a lb from the proper food wholesaler or 
chemical supply house. The trick would be finding the seller and convincing the 
seller to deal with you if they don't have a storefront you can walk into.


A lot of lab facilities keep bins full of the stuff to shovel onto base spills, 
like you'd shovel sand or kitty litter onto a oil spill. I did not get the idea 
that the stuff was considered any more precious than kitty litter. 
Unfortunately, my buddy that used to be the purchasing manager for a lab no 
longer works there. The last 5lb he gave me is running low, it'll keep the 
coffee maker cleaned out for a couple more years, but I don't think I have 
enough left to unclog a single radiator.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 1982 300D again

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 9:25 PM, Kevin Kraly kr...@comcast.net wrote:
 http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/2456120463.html
 ___

That looks like a great project to me.  Reading between the lines I
wonder if needs filters changed means that it's been sitting a while
and the fuel tank is full of gunk.  That'd be the only really
unpleasant thing to deal with (if you had to drop the tank...)

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Tim C]

Seriously?  It was $10/pound at the Whole Foods equivalent in Brier
Creek, you only need a half kilo.  Bulk bag, actually she gave me a
10% discount off that because I bought two bags.

I mean, it would be cheaper at a kitchen store, it is used in canning
and kosher food prep, but it was cheap enough that I bought it.

Call around to grocery stores, they knew what I wanted.

Will tell remainder of citric acid story shortly. :)

Thanks,
-Tim


On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 10:39 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 What kind of local store would carry citric acid in bulk? Local health food 
 place sells food grade but 1 kg will cost about $50.

 Max
 --
 Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

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Re: [MBZ] Test Refrigerant

[Mitch Haley]

http://tank.windwireless.net/~jimc/cwair.html

http://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Atank.windwireless.net%2F~jimc%2F+test+refrigerant

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Re: [MBZ] 560 SL. Sigh, it never ends...

[andrew strasfogel]

*More than you want to know...
*
Sadly, you're right!
On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 9:44 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 560 SL - year and mileage?  Color scheme?


 '86, 100-and-change-kmi.  White/Blue.  More than you want to know:


 http://userweb.windwireless.**net/~jimc/JSL2.htmlhttp://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSL2.html


 -- Jim



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[MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[Tim C]

The other day, I thought how great it would be to put a lighter
(excuse me, power socket) in the HVAC control unit of the SDL.  I cut
out a hole, put in the lighter, snapped in the interconnects to the
hazard light.  Put it into the console.  Plugged in a thing, it
powered up.

Next day, I plugged the thing in again, and it was tight so I jiggled
it in a little... and the radio went off.  Obvious fuse, windows and
blower motor still work so it is just a nice quiet ride.  When I get
to work I pull out control panel, realize there is a big metal bracket
behind my lighter, and it must have grounded out.  Put on a shielded
connector, so the problem is solved; remind self to buy more red fuses
from Rusty when I place my next order (which will be soon anyway).

Next day, replace fuse for radio and drive to work.  Radio and hazard
light are good, but now windows [not sunroof] are dead.  That
afternoon I replace the window etc. power fuse.  On the way home it
seems everything works: wipers, radio, seat settings, lighter, etc.
Happy driver me.

Then I open my door, and the radio comes on, along with the SRS light.
 I close the door.  It turns off.  I open the door and turn off the
radio.  A second later the SRS light goes off.  If I have the radio on
when I open the door, the SRS light turns on, and stays on as long as
the radio is on; if I do not, it does not.  Aside from SRS and the
radio [and antenna going up and down with radio power] I can't tell
anything different than it used to be.

Thus I was introduced to my gremlin.  Now, how do I make him go away?
Did I fry a ground?  The radio?  The ignition switch?  Will it do any
damage, as long as I unplug power to the antenna?

Thanks for any suggestions,
-Tim
who is considering leaving it as a deterrent to the random folks who
rifle my car at night

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Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[toms cat1]

Tim,
 
I can't say for sure, but if I didn't know any better, I'd say the Powers of 
the Universe are aligning in a giant, coordinated effort to ...
 
 
get you to quit smoking!
 
:)
 
Tom Schuch
1975 W115 300D
and all those BMWs
 
 
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 11:49:10 -0400
From: Tim C bb...@crone.us
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...
Message-ID: banlktin_vv-rc8u8xqtxd+jdwgmfhzo...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 
The other day, I thought how great it would be to put a lighter
(excuse me, power socket) in the HVAC control unit of the SDL. I cut
out a hole, put in the lighter, snapped in the interconnects to the
hazard light. Put it into the console. Plugged in a thing, it
powered up.
 
Next day, I plugged the thing in again, and it was tight so I jiggled
it in a little... and the radio went off. Obvious fuse, windows and
blower motor still work so it is just a nice quiet ride. When I get
to work I pull out control panel, realize there is a big metal bracket
behind my lighter, and it must have grounded out. Put on a shielded
connector, so the problem is solved; remind self to buy more red fuses
from Rusty when I place my next order (which will be soon anyway).
 
Next day, replace fuse for radio and drive to work. Radio and hazard
light are good, but now windows [not sunroof] are dead. That
afternoon I replace the window etc. power fuse. On the way home it
seems everything works: wipers, radio, seat settings, lighter, etc.
Happy driver me.
 
Then I open my door, and the radio comes on, along with the SRS light.
I close the door. It turns off. I open the door and turn off the
radio. A second later the SRS light goes off. If I have the radio on
when I open the door, the SRS light turns on, and stays on as long as
the radio is on; if I do not, it does not. Aside from SRS and the
radio [and antenna going up and down with radio power] I can't tell
anything different than it used to be.
 
Thus I was introduced to my gremlin. Now, how do I make him go away?
Did I fry a ground? The radio? The ignition switch? Will it do any
damage, as long as I unplug power to the antenna?
 
Thanks for any suggestions,
-Tim
who is considering leaving it as a deterrent to the random folks who
rifle my car at night
  
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Re: [MBZ] Non-Hot Hot Rods was Re: Classic Cars?

[Randy Bennell]

On 23/06/2011 9:19 AM, Donald Snook wrote:

Curt wrote: I think its my memories from high school in the early 90's where an 
early-mid '80s Mustang was an available POS. A friend had a 4cyl automatic that was a 
particularly galling piece of junk.

A friend of mine had one the 4 Cyl mustangs.  It was a decent car in terms of 
reliability, but performance sucked.  It was a shame to call it a mustang.  His was so 
bad, we called it The Gelding

My uncle had a small used car lot.  He would always try to help my brother and I find 
cars when we inevitably wrecked ours.  He called me when I was 17 and was so excited 
because he had traded for a Camaro.  This was 1989 and all the rich kids at School at 
Camaros and firebirds.  The Jocks had them too, but they were older.  So, I was excited 
about possibly getting a Camaro, too!  (I was not a jock or a rich kid, but wanted a 
cool car.   So, I show up at the Lot to see the car.  It was going to be in 
my price range.  I was disappointed at best.  It was a Camaro. It was in very nice shape. 
 However, it was turd brown and had a 4 cyl engine.  Instead of being cool, it was the 
luxury version with wire wheel covers and ugly pinstriping and of course, the worthless 4 
cyl engine.


Donald H. Snook
Donald, are you certain of your facts here? I do not believe that there 
was ever a Camaro with a 4 cylinder engine. An inline 6 perhaps but 
never a 4 cylinder. There were things like the Monza with the 4 .


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Non-Hot Hot Rods was Re: Classic Cars?

[Mitch Haley]

Randy Bennell wrote:

Donald, are you certain of your facts here? I do not believe that there 
was ever a Camaro with a 4 cylinder engine. An inline 6 perhaps but 
never a 4 cylinder. There were things like the Monza with the 4 .


I can't speak for Canukistan, but the early 1980s Camaro had the 2.5 Iron Duke 
and 2.8 V6 drivetrains, similar to those found in the S-10 pickup.
31mpg hwy for the 2.5L 5sp, that's only 10% less than my 1989 2.2L 5sp Plymouth 
Horizon or my 1980 2.5L 4sp Chevy Citation.



http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calculatorCompareSideBySidePopUp.jsp?column=1id=26617

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[MBZ] Old diesels for Sale

[Donald Snook]

Listers (especially the Diesel folks),

My Indy has a small car lot along with the shop.  He always has a few 
interesting cars for sale. He just got in a car that would probably be great 
for someone on here.  It's a 1975 240D (I never can remember if that's a 114 or 
115).  It has just over 100,000 miles.  It is white. Mechanically, it is in 
great shape.  I saw it a week ago, so I'm going off memory.  It actually looked 
pretty good.  It does have some rust - not much, but some.  The seats 
(especially the driver's seat) needs some work. But, the interior is decent.  
If I had the garage space and the time, I would buy it.  But, I don't have 
either and my deal with my wife requires that I wait until at least February to 
get another car.  Anyway, he says he wants $2500 for the car.  If anyone is 
interested, I can find out more.

He also has a 1978 300D.  I drove this car to test it.  It is BY FAR THE 
FASTEST non turbo diesel I have ever driven.  It was just as fast as my 90 300D 
2.5 Turbo.  I don't know if the ALDA is tuned perfectly or its just been 
maintained extremely well. But, it is fast for a diesel.  Its blue, its in nice 
shape.  Less than 200,000 miles.  The a/c works, but the heater does not. It 
has the dreaded heater control deal that costs $600-700 to replace.

By the way, I have no incentive to sell these cars.  No kickback or anything 
like that.  My indy is a friend of mine, but I don't care if one of you buys 
either one of them.  I suspect both of them will sell to someone. But, they 
could be great cars for folks that like the Klatta, Klatta.

Donald H. Snook

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Re: [MBZ] pressure washers

[Curt Raymond]

At the risk of hijacking the thread (too late!) Sta-bil is filth and will, left 
to its own devices gum up in about a year.
Seriously, leave a can of it on the shelf for a year and it'll develop 
clots...

The marine Sta-bil doesn't do that (bought a bottle last year and left it at 
camp as an experiment). I haven't tried it yet to see how it does stabilizing 
the fuel though.

Best thing to do is run it out of fuel and store it empty, if you can't do that 
put in 2oz of SeaFoam gas additive or the fuel stabilizer the POR15 people 
sell. Both are about 2x the price of Sta-bil but work very well.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 15:29:00 -0700
From: G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] pressure washers
Message-ID: BANLkTi=yVRnW7gj11QoO=wplmsnweuv...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

All good points about bigger is better if you want to really peel paint
with it.  I presently have a Honda powered  [8 hp] one that puts out 3500
psi at the tip.  It has the quick disconnect tip set which I find very handy
since it allows lots of variation in the washers use.

I also purchased a separate attachment for it that uses water pressure to
blast sand.  Previous sand blasters I've had used air pressure and were
always over tasking the compressors.  At 3500 PSI water pressure , not the
case.  Talk about power cleaning !!!
Down to bare metal in seconds.  Obviously, do not use it on sheet metal
parts.

In the past year of use, no problems with the engine or wash pump.  I
suggest that for winter storage you want to use a product called Staybil in
the gas tank which keeps the fuel from turning to varnish, and make sure the
hoses and pump are drained of water if you are above the freeze line.

Bigger cost more money, so the question to be answered is what do I really
want to use it for... a smaller unit with 2000 PSI pressure will do a nice
job if you are only washing your car of hosing off the deck, but if you run
mud bogs and have sea gulls on the deck you will need more volume and
pressure, thus more cost.

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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL almost-overheating...

[Tim C]

On Jun 6, 2011 9:18 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Jim Cathey wrote:

 I thought it was detergent first, then acid.


 If there's oil in the coolant system, then yes.


 I think sludge or similar was mentioned, but he figured the actual oil was
already in the drain pan.


Yes, in retrospect I decided there wasn't oil in the coolant.  I did an acid
flush, the only shortcuts were not removing the thermostat (I just didn't
count the warmup time) and filling/running/flushing with water several
times, rather than try to rig up a hose nib.
The flush did seem to get stuff out, and the water flushes were clean.
Until a couple days ago the weather has been 90F or below for the trip home,
and the car has stayed below 100C.  However, that day it was 95F+, and at
the end of the trip I was about 100C when I stopped outside the house; in 5
more minutes of high idling (trying to simulate traffic) I hit 110C.  In
general, it seems like it the car always around 80C until I get off the
highway, then it warms up to 90 or 100C within a few hundred yards after,
even if I'm going 45MPH.  Finally it cools down after 4-5 miles at 30MPH,
or warms up if I am 30MPH during that period.

I recall from the FSM there is some secondary path that opens at 100C, and I
saw no evidence of that on my temperature gauge.  From this I infer I need a
thermostat... and since I have to make an order, I would like to get
anything else I will probably need at the same time.

There are scads of gas 126s in the local junkyard, so I should be set on
electric fans and temperature sensors.

- How likely is it that an arbitrary viscous fan clutch will be good?  Is
there a way to field-test/inspect them off the car?  Could I replace mine
with my old OM616 fixed fan?  Even though I passed the cardboard test, since
the behavior varies a bit I wonder if I just got lucky; could the clutch
work at low temperatures and fail at high?

- The radiator looks like it is relatively new, which also would explain the
green antifreeze.  It seems to have clear air flow, and had lots of fluid
flow with the hose when I was cleaning.  IR thermometer doesn't show any
obvious discrepancies though it is hard to get around the fan. Anything I'm
missing that should make me suspect it?
- That would leave just the water pump.  I am wondering if maybe it's not
pushing at a sufficient rate, but is that likely?  I do not see any leaks
but I guess it could fail internally.  Of all the bits, this will be the
most annoying to change, since - aside from the location - I will have to
toss a gallon of the good coolant. :/

Thanks for any advice,
-Tim
also wants to fix the AC, but doesn't think that will help his overheat
problems :)
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Re: [MBZ] 1982 300D again

[Curt Raymond]

Too late I bought it, pick me up at the airport ;)

Seriously I'd be all over it. Then I'd have to sleep in it.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 21:31:13 -0700
From: Kevin Kraly kr...@comcast.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1982 300D again
Message-ID: 7EFC741EB5E54DB28520D3C4F19342D5@kdogPC
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=original

I'm thinking of purchasing the 1982 300D in the ad linked to my previous
post.  Any feedback?  It seems like the perfect car to tuck next to the
house and work  on for a while.  For not much above scrap price for a
running/driving car, I don't think I can go too wrong?

Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon 

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Re: [MBZ] 1982 300D again

[Tim C]

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 11:31 AM, Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 9:25 PM, Kevin Kraly kr...@comcast.net wrote:
 http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/2456120463.html
 ___

 That looks like a great project to me.  Reading between the lines I
 wonder if needs filters changed means that it's been sitting a while
 and the fuel tank is full of gunk.  That'd be the only really
 unpleasant thing to deal with (if you had to drop the tank...)

Yes, buy buy buy! :)

If you have rough idle run some biocide through, see if that clears it
up enough to get good flow.  Getting the tank out of a 123 sedan is
not so bad if you don't have a bunch of junk in your trunk and you get
lucky on the fuel line connectors, but it may not be necessary.

-Tim
not sure why so many people like the bundts, but a good price is a good price

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Max Dillon]

Yes, I bought 8 ounces for $10 (all they had) then read the FSM which calls for 
1 kg per treatment. Will try another grocery store, and our local Ace which is 
really good for keeping stuff like this, but I'm not holding my breath. Google 
says $12 for five pounds plus shipping. That is enough for two cars, but I'll 
have to wait for delivery.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Tim C bb...@crone.us wrote:

Seriously? It was $10/pound at the Whole Foods equivalent in Brier Creek, you 
only need a half kilo. Bulk bag, actually she gave me a 10% discount off that 
because I bought two bags. I mean, it would be cheaper at a kitchen store, it 
is used in canning and kosher food prep, but it was cheap enough that I bought 
it. Call around to grocery stores, they knew what I wanted. Will tell remainder 
of citric acid story shortly. :) Thanks, -Tim On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 10:39 AM, 
Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:  What kind of local store would 
carry citric acid in bulk? Local health food place sells food grade but 1 kg 
will cost about $50.   Max  --  Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. 
Please excuse my brevity.  _
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Max Dillon]

Soon I'll be ordering all the pieces to put my new head on, if I haven't found 
a better price I'll let you know.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Rusty Cullens buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:

I have the Mercedes stuff for $17.00 per pound. Rusty Cullens BuyMBparts, Inc. 
www.buyMBparts.biz www.buyEUROparts.biz www.buyASIANparts.biz Tel/ 
1-800-741-5252 Fax/ 770-454-9745 ICQ 427542441 AIM BuyMBparts - Original 
Message - From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net To: Mercedes 
Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 10:39 AM 
Subject: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush  What kind of local store would 
carry citric acid in bulk? Local health  food place sells food grade but 1 kg 
will cost about $50.   Max  --  Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. 
Please excuse my brevity.  _
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[MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[rogerhga]

Tim, 
Sorry for your specific problems, but once again a list member has added 
entertainment to my day. I know a lot of you guys like to do things yourself 
(save money, improve self-esteem, more macho, etc.) and I'm always waiting for 
the it worked fine, but now. Yes, I'm older and lazier as I used to work 
on my cars a lot when I was younger, but now I leave things to my Indie. So, 
when he tells me it worked fine, but now..., he has to find the gremlin and 
fix it. Plus, he has all of the manuals and training to know where to look. 
Anyway, I hope all is well or gets well, but you've provided my days 
entertainment. 
Thanks and good luck and best wishes, 
Roger Hale 
Monroe, Ga. 

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Re: [MBZ] pressure washers

[G Mann]

Points well taken.. Sea Foam is wonderful stuff and POR15 works as well.

Grant...

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 9:25 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 At the risk of hijacking the thread (too late!) Sta-bil is filth and will,
 left to its own devices gum up in about a year.
 Seriously, leave a can of it on the shelf for a year and it'll develop
 clots...

 The marine Sta-bil doesn't do that (bought a bottle last year and left it
 at camp as an experiment). I haven't tried it yet to see how it does
 stabilizing the fuel though.

 Best thing to do is run it out of fuel and store it empty, if you can't do
 that put in 2oz of SeaFoam gas additive or the fuel stabilizer the POR15
 people sell. Both are about 2x the price of Sta-bil but work very well.

 -Curt

 Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 15:29:00 -0700
 From: G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] pressure washers
 Message-ID: BANLkTi=yVRnW7gj11QoO=wplmsnweuv...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 All good points about bigger is better if you want to really peel paint
 with it.  I presently have a Honda powered  [8 hp] one that puts out 3500
 psi at the tip.  It has the quick disconnect tip set which I find very
 handy
 since it allows lots of variation in the washers use.

 I also purchased a separate attachment for it that uses water pressure to
 blast sand.  Previous sand blasters I've had used air pressure and were
 always over tasking the compressors.  At 3500 PSI water pressure , not the
 case.  Talk about power cleaning !!!
 Down to bare metal in seconds.  Obviously, do not use it on sheet metal
 parts.

 In the past year of use, no problems with the engine or wash pump.  I
 suggest that for winter storage you want to use a product called Staybil in
 the gas tank which keeps the fuel from turning to varnish, and make sure
 the
 hoses and pump are drained of water if you are above the freeze line.

 Bigger cost more money, so the question to be answered is what do I really
 want to use it for... a smaller unit with 2000 PSI pressure will do a nice
 job if you are only washing your car of hosing off the deck, but if you run
 mud bogs and have sea gulls on the deck you will need more volume and
 pressure, thus more cost.

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Re: [MBZ] Old diesels for Sale

[alanduff]

Where are these cars located? I didn't see a price on the 300D.

Alan Duff
Knoxville, TN

 


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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Tim C]

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 1:23 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 Yes, I bought 8 ounces for $10 (all they had) then read the FSM which calls 
 for 1 kg per treatment. Will try another grocery store, and our local Ace 
 which is really good for keeping stuff like this, but I'm not holding my 
 breath. Google says $12 for five pounds plus shipping. That is enough for two 
 cars, but I'll have to wait for delivery.

It was 0.5kg on my 126.

Or else I only did a half, but I'm pretty sure. :)

-Tim

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Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[Tim C]

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 1:31 PM,  roger...@comcast.net wrote:
 Tim,
 Sorry for your specific problems, but once again a list member has added 
 entertainment to my day. I know a lot of you guys like to do things yourself 
 (save money, improve self-esteem, more macho, etc.) and I'm always waiting 
 for the it worked fine, but now. Yes, I'm older and lazier as I used to 
 work on my cars a lot when I was younger, but now I leave things to my Indie. 
 So, when he tells me it worked fine, but now..., he has to find the
gremlin and fix it. Plus, he has all of the manuals and training to
know where to look.


Well, this was an aftermarket addition, so I don't know if your Indie
would approve. :)

Unfortunately I've yet to find a good Indie (or dealer for that
matter) within 30 minutes' drive, everyone around here seems to employ
monkeys who just break things, charge me $500, and then annoy me until
I get fed up and redo the job myself.  (Every single thing beyond oil
has cost $500.  It is really strange.) I think all the good mechanics
have gone into management, or quit to start their own shops and -then-
gone into management.

Once a garage called me back to see how my visit was; I said, you
overfilled the transmission by several quarts. The woman acted
annoyed, but had the shop manager call me back. How do you know it
was overfilled? I used the dipstick at idle, like the manual says.
Oh. Then he hung up, didn't answer calls henceforth, never heard
back from woman either.  And this is one of the most reputable shops
in the area.  I wound up topsiding the excess out, it wasn't hard just
annoying.  The alignment where the car steers to the left and has a
newly-loose steering wheel was a different shop (also one of the
better ones) but at least they got the brakes right.  I hope.

Not even getting into work I have had done on the Ford, which
fortunately has been all maintenance. [Yes, I did pay $500 for the
visit where they used an impact wrench on my drain plug, but that was
a dealer.  The oil changes alone at the dealer are only $60, what a
deal.]

Anyway, I am becoming used to the idea that the local mechanics* are
idiots, frauds, and/or have no idea how a car without a computer might
work, and that if I want a job done I have to put the car out of
service and do it myself (usually twice the first time), versus paying
for someone to do it wrong and then having to redo it myself anyway.
It is hardly worth my time driving all around the region, filing BBB
complaints, etc., when I can just do it the fix properly - eventually
- and have done with it, in the comfort of my driveway and without
having to schedule SWMBO to transport the kids and/or rearrange work.

One day I'll probably get tired of it, buy a commodity car, and let it
get trashed over 100K.  Then sell it to the junkyard and buy a new
one.  Like every Chrysler owner.  Welcome back Snook. :)

*It occurs to me that I've never had problems with the tire
departments at Sam's.  Maybe they have hired away all the good
mechanics?

 Anyway, I hope all is well or gets well, but you've provided my days 
 entertainment.

Glad to be of service.  I figure, if my radio comes on when I open the
door, and you are amused, then at least one of us has a radio.

 Thanks and good luck and best wishes,

You too.

Sincerely on that last bit, at least,
-Tim
knows Wilton has an indie in Raleigh, but that's almost 45 minutes one
way so I reserve him for hard tasks... in other words, haven't gotten
there yet, but every time I go to someone local for this stupid easy
maintenance junk, and they mess it up, I wish I had...

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Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[Randy Bennell]

On 23/06/2011 1:22 PM, Tim C wrote:


Unfortunately I've yet to find a good Indie (or dealer for that
matter) within 30 minutes' drive, everyone around here seems to employ
monkeys who just break things, charge me $500, and then annoy me until
I get fed up and redo the job myself.  (Every single thing beyond oil
has cost $500.  It is really strange.) I think all the good mechanics
have gone into management, or quit to start their own shops and -then-
gone into management.



Or, they have been beaten down by management and owners. My younger son 
is a licenced mechanic working in a shop owned by someone else.
He just shakes his head at what he is told to do sometimes,  but they 
don't, in most cases, want his opinion if he does not agree. He 
sometimes has to bite his tongue and do what he has been instructed to 
do even when he knows it is going to be a problem that comes back.

Makes it difficult to take pride in one's work.


Once a garage called me back to see how my visit was;


I had this too, from a body shop that repaired my Suburban years ago. 
They were really into the whole customer appreciation thing. Too bad 
they had not been into proper fixing of vehicles. When I picked up the 
truck the manager, or whatever he was, took me out and showed me the 
truck and instructed me to notice that it was clean in and out. The 
front bumper was crooked and there was still a small crease in the 
leading edge of the hood that they had not attended to. This was on an 
insurance claim where they were no doubt charging to do a good job. I 
commented on these things and he essentially brushed me off. I got a bit 
annoyed but told him that I could fix the bumper myself if they were not 
able to figure out how. He told me Chevy's are like that. I said, all 
you need to do is grind the bolt holes a bit elongated and all will be 
well from a visual point of view. I don't think he understood what I meant.


A week or so later I got a call from the shop on a followup basis. When 
she asked if I was happy, I told her that I had expressed my unhappiness 
when I picked up the vehicle and asked why she thought I should now be 
happy since they had not offered to correct the deficiencies. She was 
dumbstruck. Needless to say, I have not been back there or told anyone 
else anything but my bad opinon of them.

Anyway, I am becoming used to the idea that the local mechanics* are
idiots, frauds, and/or have no idea how a car without a computer might
work, and that if I want a job done I have to put the car out of
service and do it myself (usually twice the first time), versus paying
for someone to do it wrong and then having to redo it myself anyway.
It is hardly worth my time driving all around the region, filing BBB
complaints, etc., when I can just do it the fix properly - eventually
- and have done with it, in the comfort of my driveway and without
having to schedule SWMBO to transport the kids and/or rearrange work.

I agree that the best way is to do it yourself if it is within your 
abilities. Sometimes it is just not really possible to do things at 
home. A few years back I had to have the clutch replaced in the F150 
that my younger son was driving. He was still in school so not yet 
working in the shops. It was winter and the slave cylinder went out. We 
could not leave it like that or we would ruin the transmission and it 
was not really a job to do without a hoist etc. It cost an arm and a leg 
and was never quite the same afterwards but they did a good competant 
job so far as I can say. They used and aftermarket clutch kit and that 
was likely why it felt different afterwards.



There are good people out there. It just is a bit hard to find them. I 
think you need to give them a reason to treat you well too. I belong to 
2 different business clubs. If I get work done at the shops who are 
members of the club, they appear to bend over to ensure I am happy. They 
don't want me to say anything bad about them at the club. The whole idea 
is to generate referrals and obviously they want people like me to send 
other customers to them. Even if you are not in that situation, I 
suggest you hint strongly that you can send work their way if you are 
happy with their service and then do your best to actually get them some 
work if you are happy with them. Nothing like a bit of incentive.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Old diesels for Sale

[Donald Snook]

Allan D. wrote: Where are these cars located? I didn't see a price on the 
300D.

Oh, sorry.  The cars are in Wichita, KS.  He has the 300D priced at $2995, but 
told me today he would take $2500.

By the way, I just drove by while I was at lunch and took a couple of Cell 
phone pics.  They aren't great pics, but they show the cars.   I'll send in a 
separate email since they will have to be approved by Kaleb as attachments.

Donald H. Snook
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[MBZ] Camaro with a 4 cylinder

[Randy Bennell]

OK, I have somehow lost the posting about the 4 cylinder Camaro so I 
cannot reply to that thread directly, but I appear to be the one who 
was wrong about it.


I can honestly say I have never seen one.

No wonder they stopped producing Camaros. It must have been a sad day 
when they installed the 1st 4 cylinder engine in one.


Now, don't get me wrong. I don't care if I ever see another Camaro with 
a big block stuffed in it. I do, however think that they should not be 
allowed without at least a small block V8!


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Camaro with a 4 cylinder

[Mitch Haley]

Randy Bennell wrote:

No wonder they stopped producing Camaros. It must have been a sad day 
when they installed the 1st 4 cylinder engine in one.




Third gen Camaro was a response to high fuel prices and the Fox body Mustang.
From Wiki:

The third generation Camaro was produced from 1982 to 1992. These were the first 
Camaros to offer modern fuel injection, Turbo-Hydramatic 700R4 four-speed 
automatic transmissions, five speed manual transmissions, 16 inch wheels, a 
standard 4-cylinder engine,[8] and hatchback bodies. The cars were nearly 500 
pounds (227 kg) lighter than the second generation model.


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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Fred Moir]

Ace Hardware can order it if not in stock.
Filter Mate 1.5 lb bottle under $10 as I remember.

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


On 6/23/2011 10:39 AM, Max Dillon wrote:

What kind of local store would carry citric acid in bulk? Local health food 
place sells food grade but 1 kg will cost about $50.

Max
   


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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Max Dillon]

That is the ticket! I'll be headed over there shortly, just finished injecting 
a turkey with Italian dressing to put on the rotisserie later this afternoon.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Fred Moir fred.s...@verizon.net wrote:

Ace Hardware can order it if not in stock. Filter Mate 1.5 lb bottle under $10 
as I remember. Fred Moir Lynn MA Diesel preferred On 6/23/2011 10:39 AM, Max 
Dillon wrote:  What kind of local store would carry citric acid in bulk? Local 
health food place sells food grade but 1 kg will cost about $50.   Max 
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[WILTON]

Mmm- let's see, now, can I make it to Charleston by dinnertime?  Yeah, I 
believe I can just make it.   ;))


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush


That is the ticket! I'll be headed over there shortly, just finished 
injecting a turkey with Italian dressing to put on the rotisserie later 
this afternoon.


Max
--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Fred Moir fred.s...@verizon.net wrote:

Ace Hardware can order it if not in stock. Filter Mate 1.5 lb bottle under 
$10 as I remember. Fred Moir Lynn MA Diesel preferred On 6/23/2011 10:39 
AM, Max Dillon wrote:  What kind of local store would carry citric acid 
in bulk? Local health food place sells food grade but 1 kg will cost about 
$50.   Max _
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Rusty Cullens]

I am going to have to come to dinner, I can't afford to buy groceries with 
everyone sourcing cheaper parts!



Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush


Mmm- let's see, now, can I make it to Charleston by dinnertime?  Yeah, 
I believe I can just make it.   ;))


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush


That is the ticket! I'll be headed over there shortly, just finished 
injecting a turkey with Italian dressing to put on the rotisserie later 
this afternoon.


Max
--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Fred Moir fred.s...@verizon.net wrote:

Ace Hardware can order it if not in stock. Filter Mate 1.5 lb bottle 
under $10 as I remember. Fred Moir Lynn MA Diesel preferred On 6/23/2011 
10:39 AM, Max Dillon wrote:  What kind of local store would carry citric 
acid in bulk? Local health food place sells food grade but 1 kg will cost 
about $50.   Max _
http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To 
search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or 
change delivery options go to: 
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[Dan Penoff]

Two words:

Angie's List

I have yet to be disappointed with the products and/or services I have received 
from an Angie's List supplier.

For $25/year, it's money well spent in my humble opinion.

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 23, 2011, at 3:01 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 On 23/06/2011 1:22 PM, Tim C wrote:
 
 Unfortunately I've yet to find a good Indie (or dealer for that
 matter) within 30 minutes' drive, everyone around here seems to employ
 monkeys who just break things, charge me $500, and then annoy me until
 I get fed up and redo the job myself.  (Every single thing beyond oil
 has cost $500.  It is really strange.) I think all the good mechanics
 have gone into management, or quit to start their own shops and -then-
 gone into management.
 
 
 Or, they have been beaten down by management and owners. My younger son is a 
 licenced mechanic working in a shop owned by someone else.
 He just shakes his head at what he is told to do sometimes,  but they don't, 
 in most cases, want his opinion if he does not agree. He sometimes has to 
 bite his tongue and do what he has been instructed to do even when he knows 
 it is going to be a problem that comes back.
 Makes it difficult to take pride in one's work.
 
 Once a garage called me back to see how my visit was;
 
 I had this too, from a body shop that repaired my Suburban years ago. They 
 were really into the whole customer appreciation thing. Too bad they had not 
 been into proper fixing of vehicles. When I picked up the truck the manager, 
 or whatever he was, took me out and showed me the truck and instructed me to 
 notice that it was clean in and out. The front bumper was crooked and there 
 was still a small crease in the leading edge of the hood that they had not 
 attended to. This was on an insurance claim where they were no doubt charging 
 to do a good job. I commented on these things and he essentially brushed me 
 off. I got a bit annoyed but told him that I could fix the bumper myself if 
 they were not able to figure out how. He told me Chevy's are like that. I 
 said, all you need to do is grind the bolt holes a bit elongated and all will 
 be well from a visual point of view. I don't think he understood what I meant.
 
 A week or so later I got a call from the shop on a followup basis. When she 
 asked if I was happy, I told her that I had expressed my unhappiness when I 
 picked up the vehicle and asked why she thought I should now be happy since 
 they had not offered to correct the deficiencies. She was dumbstruck. 
 Needless to say, I have not been back there or told anyone else anything but 
 my bad opinon of them.
 Anyway, I am becoming used to the idea that the local mechanics* are
 idiots, frauds, and/or have no idea how a car without a computer might
 work, and that if I want a job done I have to put the car out of
 service and do it myself (usually twice the first time), versus paying
 for someone to do it wrong and then having to redo it myself anyway.
 It is hardly worth my time driving all around the region, filing BBB
 complaints, etc., when I can just do it the fix properly - eventually
 - and have done with it, in the comfort of my driveway and without
 having to schedule SWMBO to transport the kids and/or rearrange work.
 
 I agree that the best way is to do it yourself if it is within your 
 abilities. Sometimes it is just not really possible to do things at home. A 
 few years back I had to have the clutch replaced in the F150 that my younger 
 son was driving. He was still in school so not yet working in the shops. It 
 was winter and the slave cylinder went out. We could not leave it like that 
 or we would ruin the transmission and it was not really a job to do without a 
 hoist etc. It cost an arm and a leg and was never quite the same afterwards 
 but they did a good competant job so far as I can say. They used and 
 aftermarket clutch kit and that was likely why it felt different afterwards.
 
 
 There are good people out there. It just is a bit hard to find them. I think 
 you need to give them a reason to treat you well too. I belong to 2 different 
 business clubs. If I get work done at the shops who are members of the club, 
 they appear to bend over to ensure I am happy. They don't want me to say 
 anything bad about them at the club. The whole idea is to generate referrals 
 and obviously they want people like me to send other customers to them. Even 
 if you are not in that situation, I suggest you hint strongly that you can 
 send work their way if you are happy with their service and then do your best 
 to actually get them some work if you are happy with them. Nothing like a bit 
 of incentive.
 
 Randy
 
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Fred Moir]

My apologies, Rusty.
I also have some of your genuine MB magic powder in stock.

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


On 6/23/2011 4:11 PM, Rusty Cullens wrote:
I am going to have to come to dinner, I can't afford to buy groceries 
with everyone sourcing cheaper parts!



Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts


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Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[Allan Streib]

Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca writes:

 There are good people out there. It just is a bit hard to find them.

Often times it is a case of you get what you pay for.  There is a
local Mercedes indy in my town.  He is excellent, but not cheap.  He is
a one-man shop (his wife does books and answers the phone).  When I've
taken my car there for the occasional job that I was just to busy to get
to myself, I've felt the hit in my checking account but never had to
return to have anything re-done and never felt it was anything other
than top-notch workmanship.  That's worth paying for, IMO.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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[MBZ] safety

[Allan Streib]

Just today a 19 year old was killed in a head-on crash here.  She was
driving a Chevy Aveo hatchback (a rebadged Daewoo), drifted off the side
of a two-lane highway, apparently overcorrected and came across into
oncoming traffic, hit an Audi sedan head-on.

Her car was totally destroyed and as mentioned she was killed.  The Audi
driver and passenger suffered non life-threatening injuries.

I fear we are going to see more of the same as these tiny low-cost
import cars become more prevalent.

-- 
1983 300D

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[MBZ] Fire Extinguisher for Car?

[Jerry Herrman]

 
Going through my old boxes, I came across this device that appears to be a 
diminutive automotive fire extinguisher with mounting bracket, possibly a 
rechargeable one. See the attached picture. One of you senior guys recognize 
this? It looks too small to be of value in a real fire. When I turn the knob, I 
hear hissing. Given that it is made of brass, it must be from years ago. Would 
look good in my 240D, maybe?  Can someone provide facts about this thing and 
how/when it was used? Doesn't look like it would come from Pep Boys or other 
discount store. More about the old boxes in a later submission.

Jerry
1982 240D
1991 Volvo 240




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database 6234 (20110623) __

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Max Dillon]

More than enough for both of you and your brides, but we'll be sitting down in 
just a few minutes. I don't think this bird will last too long once he goes 
under the knife...

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Rusty Cullens buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:

I am going to have to come to dinner, I can't afford to buy groceries with 
everyone sourcing cheaper parts! Rusty Cullens BuyMBparts, Inc. 
www.buyMBparts.biz www.buyEUROparts.biz www.buyASIANparts.biz Tel/ 
1-800-741-5252 Fax/ 770-454-9745 ICQ 427542441 AIM BuyMBparts - Original 
Message - From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com To: Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 4:07 PM Subject: Re: 
[MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush  Mmm- let's see, now, can I make it 
to Charleston by dinnertime? Yeah,  I believe I can just make it. ;))   
Wilton   - Original Message -  From: Max Dillon 
meadedil...@bellsouth.net  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com  Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 3:54 PM  Subject: Re: 
[MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flushThat is the ticket! I'll be headed 
over there shortly, just finished  injecting a turkey with Italian dressing 
to put on the rotisserie later  this
afternoon.   Max  --  Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please 
excuse my brevity.   Fred Moir fred.s...@verizon.net wrote:   Ace 
Hardware can order it if not in stock. Filter Mate 1.5 lb bottle  under $10 
as I remember. Fred Moir Lynn MA Diesel preferred On 6/23/2011  10:39 AM, Max 
Dillon wrote:  What kind of local store would carry citric  acid in bulk? 
Local health food place sells food grade but 1 kg will cost  about $50.   
Max _
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Re: [MBZ] safety

[Mitch Haley]

Allan Streib wrote:


I fear we are going to see more of the same as these tiny low-cost
import cars become more prevalent.


Just think how prevalent they used to be. Occupant protection in an Aveo has to 
be light years ahead of my old 1975 Civic or a 1990s Geo Metro.


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Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[rogerhga]

Tim, 
I'm glad you're not mad at me. I guess I've been lucky with my old MBs. I've 
found two sets of Indies that have worked on my cars and they will install my 
parts when I ask. Both sets worked for the local MB dealerships here in the 
Atlanta area before opening their own shops and more importantly, both sets are 
older so they know my old MBs (617s). When I was first looking for an Indie, I 
would take one of my cars to their shop (had to be a small shop too) and let 
them do an oil service. I would watch how they checked the rest of the car and 
then listen as they told me what I might want to have fixed in the near future, 
etc. I passed on a couple because they just ran through the oil service, did a 
very brief look at the rest of the car, and gave no suggestions for things to 
keep an eye on or consider bringing back for repair. I don't go to the 
dealerships here in the Atlanta area as they no longer have any older mechanics 
that know how to work on the old 617s. The last time my wife took her 80 300SD 
to the dealership (about 5 yrs ago), it almost stopped the whole shop as almost 
all of the mechanics came over to take a look at the engine, etc. as they never 
see one. 
Sometimes we just have to do some deep investigation of our own before turning 
our vehicles over to someone for work. Fortunately, my 2001 Dodge Ram hasn't 
needed anything except oil changes (which I do) since I purchased it used 7 
yrs. ago. Now, if I could just get that 5.9 to give me some decent gas mileage. 
Best Wishes, 
Roger Hale 
Monroe, Ga. 

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Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[Bob Rentfro]

I have the best Indie in the world. He's alway cheaper than the dealer but
he ain't cheap. He let's me stand out in the shop and watch whatever he or
any of his guys is doing. Never had to take anything back. I'm a firm
believer in you get what you pay for.
No thing is better than the warm fuzzy you get from having a good wrench.

Bob R
On Jun 23, 2011 4:12 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca writes:

 There are good people out there. It just is a bit hard to find them.

 Often times it is a case of you get what you pay for. There is a
 local Mercedes indy in my town. He is excellent, but not cheap. He is
 a one-man shop (his wife does books and answers the phone). When I've
 taken my car there for the occasional job that I was just to busy to get
 to myself, I've felt the hit in my checking account but never had to
 return to have anything re-done and never felt it was anything other
 than top-notch workmanship. That's worth paying for, IMO.

 Allan
 --
 1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[larry]

A while back on this list,  a number of people gave me a hard time because I 
expected a mechanic to use my parts if I wanted.


When I needed a rebuilt AT I bought one from Rusty and not only was my local 
indie wiling to install it but my dealer would have as well - which 
surprised me a bit.


LarryT
91 300D

- Original Message - 
From: roger...@comcast.net

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...



Tim,
I'm glad you're not mad at me. I guess I've been lucky with my old MBs. 
I've found two sets of Indies that have worked on my cars and they will 
install my parts when I ask. Both sets worked for the local MB dealerships 
here in the Atlanta area before opening their own shops and more 
importantly, both sets are older so they know my old MBs (617s). When I 
was first looking for an Indie, I would take one of my cars to their shop 
(had to be a small shop too) and let them do an oil service. I would watch 
how they checked the rest of the car and then listen as they told me what 
I might want to have fixed in the near future, etc. I passed on a couple 
because they just ran through the oil service, did a very brief look at 
the rest of the car, and gave no suggestions for things to keep an eye on 
or consider bringing back for repair. I don't go to the dealerships here 
in the Atlanta area as they no longer have any older mechanics that know 
how to work on the old 617s. The last time my wife took her 80 300SD to 
the dealership (about 5 yrs ago), it almost stopped the whole shop as 
almost all of the mechanics came over to take a look at the engine, etc. 
as they never see one.
Sometimes we just have to do some deep investigation of our own before 
turning our vehicles over to someone for work. Fortunately, my 2001 Dodge 
Ram hasn't needed anything except oil changes (which I do) since I 
purchased it used 7 yrs. ago. Now, if I could just get that 5.9 to give me 
some decent gas mileage.

Best Wishes,
Roger Hale
Monroe, Ga.

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[MBZ] Ot motorhomes

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Anybody know anything about rvs, travel trailers etc?  One of my dealers got a 
94 32? Ft winabago in on trade, can buy for 5k. Has a 454 gasser in it. Wonder 
what kind of mileage it would get? I don't even know how to turn on the power 
to the thing. Engine starts right up and runs great.  Seems fancy for the year. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[Tim C]

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 8:05 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote:
 any of his guys is doing. Never had to take anything back. I'm a firm
 believer in you get what you pay for.

Unfortunately, I've been paying premium city prices for kids with
spanners.  Hence the frustration. :/

If I thought the dealer would do a better job I'd take it there -
prices are not much higher, rates for good independents here are
$80-100/estimated hour plus 200% parts markup - but the first time I
was at the MBZ dealer they rudely refused to do what I wanted
(specifically, order a key) and so I determined not to go back.
Thanks to Rusty, I haven't had to, yet.

Will definitely check out Angie's list, and I will take Roger's advice
on the oil changes - that does seem like a good nonthreatening way to
get to know a mechanic.  I tend to only go when there is a specific
something I don't want to do, so it's doubly frustrating when I end up
having to do it anyway.  At least if they mess up an oil change it's
obvious and easy to fix, usually. :)

Thanks!
-Tim
probably going to keep the gremlin and disable the antenna, I kind of
liked it today; like the dome light, it gave me a nice warm the
battery is alive feeling when I opened the door

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Re: [MBZ] Ot motorhomes

[Mitch Haley]

What's the chassis, is it Winnebago or is it Chevy P30?
I'm guessing it's a P30 bread van with a hugely extended frame and a flimsy 
camper shell on top.
Didn't somebody here, like Poos, widely insult the overall quality of Winnebago 
camper shells, interiors, etc?


Around here, you could probably sell a decent '94 Class A for $5k after using it 
for the summer. (unless prices have suffered since last year, fuel costs might 
scare away the buyers)


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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL almost-overheating...

[Tim C]

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 12:29 PM, Tim C bb...@crone.us wrote:
 with my old OM616 fixed fan?  Even though I passed the cardboard test, since
 the behavior varies a bit I wonder if I just got lucky; could the clutch
 work at low temperatures and fail at high?

The answer to this question is, yes.  The car broke 100C by the time
I got to the Babies-R-Us, and when I got out with my cardboard the fan
was totally stopped (yes, engine was on).  I tapped it and it started
spinning, but obviously the clutch is dead, and I suspect the fan is
rubbing on the housing or something too.

Anyway I will take the bet this is my main problem, and just replace
it and the thermostat soonest, fix the electric fan, and leave the
poor water pump and radiator alone.

Thanks for all the help!
-Tim
talk to you tomorrow, Dr. Bimby

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Re: [MBZ] Fire Extinguisher for Car?

[Walt Zarnoch]

Looks to be a carbon tetrchloride or similar extinguisher, quite old for sure.

AHA! Googling the label, it's a 1940's Presto fire extinguisher that
is usually filled with chlorobromomethane. There seems to be a
possibility of cardiac arrest if you happen to inhale any of it...

This site has a bit more info.  http://www.mainememory.net/bin/Detail?ln=14611

Going price on fleabay is ~ $60.

Hope that helps!

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 7:38 PM, Jerry Herrman jer...@san.rr.com wrote:

 Going through my old boxes, I came across this device that appears to be a 
 diminutive automotive fire extinguisher with mounting bracket, possibly a 
 rechargeable one. See the attached picture. One of you senior guys 
 recognize this? It looks too small to be of value in a real fire. When I turn 
 the knob, I hear hissing. Given that it is made of brass, it must be from 
 years ago. Would look good in my 240D, maybe?  Can someone provide facts 
 about this thing and how/when it was used? Doesn't look like it would come 
 from Pep Boys or other discount store. More about the old boxes in a later 
 submission.

 Jerry
 1982 240D
 1991 Volvo 240




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Re: [MBZ] Ot motorhomes

[Jim Cathey]

32' winabago ... Has a 454 gasser... Wonder what kind of mileage


6, maybe 8.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: 300SDL almost-overheating...

[Jim Cathey]

the water pump...I guess it could fail internally.


Really?  IMHO, if it ain't leaking or squeaking it's good.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Breaking up is hard to do...

[Jim Cathey]

Sounds like your radio is back-feeding power from the
clock circuit to the keyed circuit.  Is this a stock radio?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[Jim Cathey]

What kind of local store would carry citric acid in bulk?


Baking supply house.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] test

[OK Don]

I hate it when that happens --

On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 11:41 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:


 KLUNK!

 --  Philip

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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Test Refrigerant

[Jim Cathey]

You need R12 gauges, a vacuum pump (if you want to really
do it right), a side-tapper or else a fitting taken from a
thrift-shop camping stove like I did, a propane torch, and
some junkyard fittings and hoses.  I'm being deliberately
a bit vague, in that if you're not confidant in your ability
to improvise from that kind of description and my logs it
might be best not to do this kind of thing yourself.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL almost-overheating...

[Jim Cathey]

The car broke 100C by the time
I got to the Babies-R-Us, and when I got out with my cardboard the fan
was totally stopped (yes, engine was on).  I tapped it and it started
spinning, but obviously the clutch is dead, and I suspect the fan is
rubbing on the housing or something too.


Before taking that diagnosis stop the engine and feel the radiator
behind the fan.  It better not be cool, else the radiator is
probably clogged and the fan is doing what it is supposed to.
The heat from the radiator has to heat up the clutch first
before it'll couple.  Yes, I personally have wasted money on
a new fan clutch when it was not the problem, and they're not
cheap enough to not care.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] safety

[Allan Streib]

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:

 Allan Streib wrote:

 I fear we are going to see more of the same as these tiny low-cost
 import cars become more prevalent.

 Just think how prevalent they used to be. Occupant protection in an
 Aveo has to be light years ahead of my old 1975 Civic or a 1990s Geo
 Metro.

Not safe enough, evidently.

45 MPG doesn't mean much if you're dead and the other party walks away
from the crash.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Ot motorhomes

[Dan Penoff]

Not me.

I think I may have commented on my experiences with the Mini Winnie that 
Winnebago marketed back in the late 80s/early 90s.

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 23, 2011, at 8:49 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 
 What's the chassis, is it Winnebago or is it Chevy P30?
 I'm guessing it's a P30 bread van with a hugely extended frame and a flimsy 
 camper shell on top.
 Didn't somebody here, like Poos, widely insult the overall quality of 
 Winnebago camper shells, interiors, etc?
 
 Around here, you could probably sell a decent '94 Class A for $5k after using 
 it for the summer. (unless prices have suffered since last year, fuel costs 
 might scare away the buyers)
 
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Re: [MBZ] safety

[Rich Thomas]

Last night on the PBS new show, whatever it is called now, some bow-tied 
dweeb was going on about how wonderful it will be when the fuel economy 
standards are mandated to be 60mpg.  I wondered what would happen when 
Bubba cruises the stop light after a half a case of beer and t-bones one 
of those wonderful vehicles.  Idiots.


--R

On 6/23/11 7:19 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

Just today a 19 year old was killed in a head-on crash here.  She was
driving a Chevy Aveo hatchback (a rebadged Daewoo), drifted off the side
of a two-lane highway, apparently overcorrected and came across into
oncoming traffic, hit an Audi sedan head-on.

Her car was totally destroyed and as mentioned she was killed.  The Audi
driver and passenger suffered non life-threatening injuries.

I fear we are going to see more of the same as these tiny low-cost
import cars become more prevalent.



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Re: [MBZ] Fire Extinguisher for Car?

[Rich Thomas]

Anything called chlorobromomethane sounds way cool, and dangerous.  EPA 
will probably make you a Superfund site if they find out you have that.


--R

On 6/23/11 9:04 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

Looks to be a carbon tetrchloride or similar extinguisher, quite old for sure.

AHA! Googling the label, it's a 1940's Presto fire extinguisher that
is usually filled with chlorobromomethane. There seems to be a
possibility of cardiac arrest if you happen to inhale any of it...

This site has a bit more info.  http://www.mainememory.net/bin/Detail?ln=14611

Going price on fleabay is ~ $60.

Hope that helps!

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 7:38 PM, Jerry Herrmanjer...@san.rr.com  wrote:

Going through my old boxes, I came across this device that appears to be a diminutive 
automotive fire extinguisher with mounting bracket, possibly a rechargeable one. See the 
attached picture. One of you senior guys recognize this? It looks too small 
to be of value in a real fire. When I turn the knob, I hear hissing. Given that it is 
made of brass, it must be from years ago. Would look good in my 240D, maybe?  Can someone 
provide facts about this thing and how/when it was used? Doesn't look like it would come 
from Pep Boys or other discount store. More about the old boxes in a later submission.

Jerry
1982 240D
1991 Volvo 240




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Re: [MBZ] Test Refrigerant

[Rich Thomas]

I am quite able to improvise, but would rather not spend the time 
figuring it out and bodging it all up, reinventing the test refrigerant 
system yet again.  I promise not to sue you or your spawn.  I've got 134 
gauges, a vac pump, a propane torch, a coupla old portable propane 
grills, etc.


--R

On 6/23/11 9:34 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

You need R12 gauges, a vacuum pump (if you want to really
do it right), a side-tapper or else a fitting taken from a
thrift-shop camping stove like I did, a propane torch, and
some junkyard fittings and hoses.  I'm being deliberately
a bit vague, in that if you're not confidant in your ability
to improvise from that kind of description and my logs it
might be best not to do this kind of thing yourself.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Ot motorhomes

[drcscruggs]

I had a 31 foot 454 holiday rambler motorhome with the turbo 400 transmission.  
It got about 7-9 miles per gallon.  It really depends on how fast you drive it. 
 If you drive about 55 it will get better mileage than if you drive 65-70 (as I 
did often).  I had very little problem with the 454.  I did change out the 
brakes and rotors on it and the parts were cheap.  The parts are pretty much 
one ton chevrolet truck parts.  The air conditioner never worked very well so, 
you need a generator to make sure your roof air conditioners work.  I think 2 
AC's are best (for southern climes).  I do recommend that you have a gasoline 
generator vs a propane generator.  It is a pain to have to do both propane and 
gasoline at the stops. I would definately check out the engine/trans with 
someone as the cost to exchange those out equal the cost of the motorhome.  I 
presently have a diesel and love it, but I did pay more than 5k for it.  For 5K 
you can have a lot of fun if you don't have costly mechanical problems.  I will 
say the 454 was a good runner.  




-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thu, Jun 23, 2011 3:28 pm
Subject: [MBZ] Ot motorhomes


Anybody know anything about rvs, travel trailers etc?  One of my dealers got a 
94 32? Ft winabago in on trade, can buy for 5k. Has a 454 gasser in it. Wonder 
what kind of mileage it would get? I don't even know how to turn on the power 
to 
the thing. Engine starts right up and runs great.  Seems fancy for the year. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Fire Extinguisher for Car?

[Dieselhead]

Can't read the label.  It is most likely a carbon tetrachloride fire 
extinguisher.  They were banned about 1960.   It is possible that it 
is a CO2, but those generally have a cone, and i didn't see any 
evidence of a cone.


Carbon Tet used to be sold under the Carbona label and was also 
used as a cleaner.  Then the gummit decided it was bad and outlawed 
it.  It was also the primary solvent for dry cleaning.


After it was eliminated in the dry cleaning (commercial) industry, 
many dry cleaners went out of business because there was no direct 
replacement.  It was either invest heavily, or let the gummit put you 
out of business.



The brass is of some value, and it may have some value to the movie 
prop industry.





Going through my old boxes, I came across this device that appears 
to be a diminutive automotive fire extinguisher with mounting 
bracket, possibly a rechargeable one. See the attached picture. One 
of you senior guys recognize this? It looks too small to be of 
value in a real fire. When I turn the knob, I hear hissing. Given 
that it is made of brass, it must be from years ago. Would look good 
in my 240D, maybe?  Can someone provide facts about this thing and 
how/when it was used? Doesn't look like it would come from Pep Boys 
or other discount store. More about the old boxes in a later 
submission.


Jerry
1982 240D
1991 Volvo 240




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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid for radiator flush

[OK Don]

Chemical supply house - I had to read the MSD (?) sheet and sign a waiver,
but they were happy to sell to me. I've also bought it from
thechemistrystore.com - arrived on my doorstep with only my fingers doing
the walking (typing). I don't remember the price -

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 8:30 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 What kind of local store would carry citric acid in bulk?


 Baking supply house.

 -- Jim


-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Fire Extinguisher for Car?

[OK Don]

Carbon Tet was really good at drying out a moisture ridden MG distrubutor --


On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 9:18 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Can't read the label.  It is most likely a carbon tetrachloride fire
 extinguisher.  They were banned about 1960.   It is possible that it is a
 CO2, but those generally have a cone, and i didn't see any evidence of a
 cone.

 Carbon Tet used to be sold under the Carbona label and was also used as a
 cleaner.  Then the gummit decided it was bad and outlawed it.  It was also
 the primary solvent for dry cleaning.

 After it was eliminated in the dry cleaning (commercial) industry, many dry
 cleaners went out of business because there was no direct replacement.  It
 was either invest heavily, or let the gummit put you out of business.


 The brass is of some value, and it may have some value to the movie prop
 industry.




 Going through my old boxes, I came across this device that appears to be a
 diminutive automotive fire extinguisher with mounting bracket, possibly a
 rechargeable one. See the attached picture. One of you senior guys
 recognize this? It looks too small to be of value in a real fire. When I
 turn the knob, I hear hissing. Given that it is made of brass, it must be
 from years ago. Would look good in my 240D, maybe?  Can someone provide
 facts about this thing and how/when it was used? Doesn't look like it would
 come from Pep Boys or other discount store. More about the old boxes in a
 later submission.

 Jerry
 1982 240D
 1991 Volvo 240




 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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[MBZ] OT: Gray water recycling systems

[OK Don]

Back in Sept. of '08, we had a discussion about washer lint in septic
systems that must have been interesting, since I remembered it. We are going
to be moving to a house with well and septic systems, so I'm getting even
more interested. I know that the current owners/residents have done nothing
with the septic system for the five years they've lived there (all four of
them).

I'm interested in hearing more about gray water recycling systems that
you've built/used. I think it will good to minimize the load on the septic
system, and my wife plans to maintain a lot of plants and trees, not to
mention the gardens she has in mind.
This is in rural Oklahoma with little to no regulation, so those should not
be a hurdle to deal with.

Thanks,
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 1982 300D again

[Craig]

On Wed, 22 Jun 2011 21:25:40 -0700 Kevin Kraly kr...@comcast.net
wrote:

 http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/2456120463.html

NO DEQ!

Huh?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] cruise control issues for 126, '87 300SDL

[Scott Ritchey]

Also be sure the connections are good.  My intermittent problem turned out
to be the connection to the speed signal in the instrument panel.

Scott Ritchey
1982 300SD 230k mi
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 13:45
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cruise control issues for 126, '87 300SDL

On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 9:03 AM, Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:
 My cruise control is starting to perform some erratic behaviour. Initially
 it will not engage, and I have to continue to try engaging numerous times
 before it will start.  Once starting, it surges on and off for quite a
while
 before it finally settles down and works fine.


Like Jim said, it is almost certainly the amplifier, but you can try
the troubleshooting guide here to make sure.
http://gdl-online.com/testproc.html
You will need a decent VOM and a variable DC bench power supply.

I've bought a rebuilt amp from GDL for my '87 300D and been completely
satisfied.  I think Rusty sells them too.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] cruise control issues for 126, '87 300SDL

[Walt Zarnoch]

I can get a VDO motor based actuator from the yard tomorrow if you
need one, possibly the amplifier if I can get it off the bracket. Amp
would be $12, actuator would be $12, per the price sheet.

Walt

On Fri, Jun 24, 2011 at 12:14 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 Also be sure the connections are good.  My intermittent problem turned out
 to be the connection to the speed signal in the instrument panel.

 Scott Ritchey
 1982 300SD 230k mi
 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
 Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 13:45
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] cruise control issues for 126, '87 300SDL

 On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 9:03 AM, Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:
 My cruise control is starting to perform some erratic behaviour. Initially
 it will not engage, and I have to continue to try engaging numerous times
 before it will start.  Once starting, it surges on and off for quite a
 while
 before it finally settles down and works fine.


 Like Jim said, it is almost certainly the amplifier, but you can try
 the troubleshooting guide here to make sure.
 http://gdl-online.com/testproc.html
 You will need a decent VOM and a variable DC bench power supply.

 I've bought a rebuilt amp from GDL for my '87 300D and been completely
 satisfied.  I think Rusty sells them too.

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: 300SDL almost-overheating...

[Craig]

On Thu, 23 Jun 2011 18:29:23 -0700 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
wrote:

  the water pump...I guess it could fail internally.
 
 Really?  IMHO, if it ain't leaking or squeaking it's good.

But someone here has had the situation where the vanes were erroded and
the pump didn't.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1982 300D again

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 9:09 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 On Wed, 22 Jun 2011 21:25:40 -0700 Kevin Kraly kr...@comcast.net
 wrote:

 http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/2456120463.html

 NO DEQ!


Are you asking what that means, or why it is so?  ;)

As to the former, smog checks in Oregon are handled by the state DEQ
rather than the DMV or Department of Licensing or some other more
car-related body as in saner places.

As to the latter, vehicles older than 25 years are exempt from DEQ
testing, but normally there is no other exemption for diesels, again
unlike places with saner government.

Mostly they test for exhaust opacity on diesels. When I lived in
Portland I used to always make sure I had filled up my 300D with
biodiesel and done a few good hard acceleration runs before I went
through.

(The ad's deleted, though---Kevin, did you snap her up?)

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Ot motorhomes

[Kevin Kraly]

If you get over 8MPG with it, you're doing pretty well.  We had a mid 90's 
Chevy class C with a 454 in it, and it got around 7MPG towing a Jeep Grand 
Cherokee.  That wasn't going the speed limit either :D.  A 1995 32 footer 
is a good deal for 5K!  Hook up a tow dolly, roam the country and  drag back 
the Mercedes Diesels one by one!


Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon 



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Gray water recycling systems

[Craig]

On Thu, 23 Jun 2011 23:00:25 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Back in Sept. of '08, we had a discussion about washer lint in septic
 systems that must have been interesting, since I remembered it. We are
 going to be moving to a house with well and septic systems, so I'm
 getting even more interested. I know that the current owners/residents
 have done nothing with the septic system for the five years they've
 lived there (all four of them).

I have a booklet (somewhere) called, The care and feeding of your septic
tank. You might do a web search on that title.


 I'm interested in hearing more about gray water recycling systems that
 you've built/used. I think it will good to minimize the load on the
 septic system, and my wife plans to maintain a lot of plants and trees,
 not to mention the gardens she has in mind.
 This is in rural Oklahoma with little to no regulation, so those should
 not be a hurdle to deal with.

The washing machine is easiest to deal with. Just get a galvanized nipple
6 - 8 long (3/4, IIRC), install a female NPT to male garden hose
adaptor on one end, and jam the other end in the end of the washing
machine's drain hose (and maybe put on a hose clamp). Connect a garden
hose to the adaptor and water to your heart's delite. Don't put anything
that will shut off on the far end of the hose. Something like a hose-end
bubbler should be OK.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1982 300D again

[Kevin Kraly]

DEQ is the department of Environmental Quality (AKA Emissions testing). 
Unfortunately, I missed out on this one, I didn't have time to get there to 
look it over.


Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon 



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Re: [MBZ] 1982 300D again

[Craig]

On Thu, 23 Jun 2011 22:24:06 -0700 Kevin Kraly kr...@comcast.net
wrote:

 DEQ is the department of Environmental Quality (AKA Emissions testing).

Thanks.

 
 Unfortunately, I missed out on this one, I didn't have time to get
 there to look it over.

That's too bad. Sorry.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1982 300D again

[Kevin Kraly]

Nope, didn't get there in time.  However, I see more and more cheap MB 
Diesels every day, there's a 1965 190D for $400 up there right now.  I want 
to stick with the W115, 116 and 123's.


Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon 



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Re: [MBZ] Ot motorhomes

[Gerry Archer]

From: drcscru...@aol.com
I had a 31 foot 454 holiday rambler motorhome with the turbo 400 
transmission.  It got about 7-9 miles per gallon.  It really depends on how 
fast you drive it.  If you drive about 55 it will get better mileage than 
if you drive 65-70 (as I did often).  I had very little problem with the 
454.  I did change out the brakes and rotors on it and the parts were 
cheap.  The parts are pretty much one ton chevrolet truck parts.  The air 
conditioner never worked very well so, you need a generator to make sure 
your roof air conditioners work.  I think 2 AC's are best (for southern 
climes).  I do recommend that you have a gasoline generator vs a propane 
generator.  It is a pain to have to do both propane and gasoline at the 
stops. I would definately check out the engine/trans with someone as the 
cost to exchange those out equal the cost of the motorhome.  I presently 
have a diesel and love it, but I did pay more than 5k for it.  For 5K you 
can have a lot of fun if you don't have costly mechanical problems.  I will 
say the 454 was a good runner.

-
What kind of m/h do you have; length; front or rear engine; kind of engine; 
mpg?

I've thought about buying one since prices are low.
Thanks,
Gerry
'83 300D and  240D


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