Re: [MBZ] Climate control (1987 300D)
Speaking of which, what is so different about the 87 diesel PBU when compared to run-of-the-mill 124 PBUs? What happens if the latter is installed in an 87 diesel? Will Armageddon ensue? -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
[MBZ] Odd transmission problem
Hello all, I recently experienced this odd phenomenon on my 1987 300D. It has only occurred twice, and both times it was when turning out from a parking lot onto the main road. While turning, the transmission seemingly shifted into neutral (engine was revving but gear wasn't engaging). A few seconds later, it engaged into drive. I have not been able to replicate the problem. After drive is reengaged, all seems well. Background info: transmission fluid flushed about 5K miles ago with Redline Synthetic, and a new filter + gasket was installed. Shifting is perfect - no flaring, delays, or muddyness. Thanks for any advice. Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
[MBZ] Special tool for removing HVAC wedge-base bulbs
Hello all, I'm sure that all W124 and 1986-1991 W126 owners know that it's a PITA to R&R the two bulbs that light up the ACC PBU unit. In the past I used superglue on a small piece of plastic tubing to extract each bulb. This works, but I've found a better way. I discovered that the wiring sheath that encapsulates the two wires running to the overhead thermistor in the domelight assembly is an ideal special tool for this purpose! I clipped one off a junkyard car, and it is the PERFECT inner diameter to slip over the bulb and maintain good grip when pulling them out. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Running wire from trunk, '93 W124
First remove the lower cushion by depressing the two orange tabs and lifting it straight out. In the lower corner of the backrest you'll see an 8mm bolt on each side, and there's another one underneath and behind the center armrest. Once they're removed you can pull upward on the backrest to remove it. The headrests need to be lowered though. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] basic question about Allen wrenches
For removing the 6mm allen bolts on OM60x motors, the BEST tool HANDS DOWN is the Snap-On 6mm ball hex driver in 1/4" drive. With that sucker on an 8" extension, the manifold is off in about 10 minutes. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD On 11/10/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I occaisionaly find a bolt that is too close to something else to use > an allen driver. The lower bolts on the 603 intake manifold com to > mind. I then cut 3/4" or so (19mm) off the long end of an L Allen > wrench, and use a standard socket to turn it. I used a 1/4" drive 6mm > socket for those 603 intake maniflod bolts - worked great (but they > weren't all that tight). > > On 11/10/05, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Allen drivers in 3/8" and 1/2" drive are pretty much necessary. The > > "L" type wrenches require a cheater bar, and aren't safe since the bar > > can slip off if the screw lets loose suddenly. > > > > Get a couple sets, you won't regret it. Avoid the "SAE ground to > > metric" cheapo sets, get Craftsman, Mac, or Snap-On (if you are rich). > > > > Peter > > -- > OK Don, KD5NRO > Norman, OK > '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC > The FSM created the Diesel Benz > http://www.venganza.org/ > > ___ > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] 1991 350 SDL
Casey, The interior was upgraded, and that included the new-style seats which IMO, are infinitely many times better than the old type, pleated leather door panels instead of the flat perforated leather, and a wooden roll-top center console box. To compensate for lack of a glovebox, the passenger's side underdash panel was sculpted to allow for small storage space for sunglasses, etc. Other minor interior changes included a better stereo with speakers in the front doors, an illuminated sunroof switch, and a leather wrapped steering wheel + shift knob. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Cool E55 commercial
I like this one too, but they skipped over the W115. http://w124.f0e.net/videos/misc_mb/story_remains.mov Here's the crusher one: http://w124.f0e.net/videos/misc_mb/crusher.mov -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Photos of K-Mac rear camber kit
Dave, I know I'm jumping into this topic a bit late. From what I see, the KMAC bushings replace the inner bushing on the big spring link and the bushing on the rear tie rod, correct? So to decrease negative camber, adjustment of the eccentric bolts would pull the inner part of the rear wheel *closer* to the car, wheras the Speedtek adjustable camber arms push the top of the wheel *outward*? Do the KMAC eccentric bolts for the tie rod offer a bigger range of adjustment compared to the stock tie rod eccentrics? -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] More Scandi Super Turbo videos
Whoa... that is some pretty gnarly drifting! Never seen a souped-up 190E pulling moves like that! -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Clicking noises from behind glovebox
Here's an update on my "clicking" issue with my 87 300D. Stage 1: Clicking noises from behind glovebox occasionally after a cold start. Disappear after 5-10 minutes. Stage 2: Clicking noises now occur after every single cold start, but still disappear after 5-10 minutes. Stage 3: Clicking noises now toggle the blower on and off every second or two. The recirculate light flashes rhythmically with the blower motor switching on and off. Symptoms disappear after 5-10 minutes and ACC operates normally. Stage 4: No clicking noises at cold start. ACC unit does nothing, but the blower motor fuse is OK. As the car warms up, hot air blows from the side and defrost vents. ACC unit does nothing to regulate temperature or air flow, which seems to increase with speed (blows REALLY hard and hot on the highway). Stage 5: One used aux water pump from Pick-n-pull and $5 later, all above symptoms are gone, ACC operates normally, and I can sleep at night. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl a/c clutch r/r
Some ND compressors need a pin wrench to counterhold the clutch so you can remove the center nut, but others have no provision for the pin wrench. In the latter case you can use channel-lock pliers. You'll need the MB pulling tool that screws into the center of the clutch, but some folks have had success prying it out slowly. I wouldn't try that though. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD On 12/12/05, Constantine N. Polites <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch? If so, > do any of the MB procedures apply (CD).? If not > any good pitfalls? > > Thanks, > Constantine > > ___ > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] Sound Panels, 300D 2.5
Yes, that would be me! Reason being, the 300D 2.5 panel costs about *half* of what the 1987 300D 3.0 panel does! If you could measure the distance in between the four holes where the screws go, that would be great. -Aaron On 2/21/06, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Larry - when you get around to changing the oil on your '91 and have the > front sound panel off, you could do a fella named Aaron Lam (on this list) > a > favor if you could get a picture of it with a digital camera. He asked me > to take one the next time I have mine off, but its getting to look like > that > will be several months away. > > Thanks, > Werner > >
Re: [MBZ] Mats, Mirror & Owners Manual for my 91 300D
Whatever you do, DO NOT attempt to pry the mirror switch out from the top of the wood. You need to remove the wood first - because unlike the older cars, the switches are clipped in from the bottom! -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
The front panel overlaps the rear, and without the front one installed, the rear hangs down a bit and is more susceptible to damage. -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] Droopy glove box door
Instead of cutting notches in screwdrivers, just use a pair of needlenose pliers (use the tips to lock into the slots of the nut) -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] Mats, Mirror & Owners Manual for my 91 300D
Somewhat similar. 1. Pop off the plastic trim ring that surrounds the shifter 2. Open sliding wood console box, remove two screws at front, and remove box. 3. If you don't have the box, peel back the carpet to reveal the single screw on a plastic tab 4. Lift wood upward carefully, starting at the rear. On 2/23/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Thanks again for the warning Aaron - next question - does the panel lift > up > similar to the W123 cars? i.e., remove a couple of screws from below the > ashtray and lift up to expose the underside of the switch? > > Got the replacement from Rusty and I'd like to install it later today -- > >
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Supersedans
Hmm, strange how they mention door mounted seat switches on the W116. AFAIK they first came about on the W126. -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] 124 washer nozzles don't heat up
If you want a cheesy upgrade for your W124, you can swap in the nozzles from the early 190E/D (the type that had only one nozzle in the center of the hood). Then you'll have six streams of washer fluid instead of the measly four... -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Limo console wood install report (W124)
Dave, For illumination did you splice into the existing grey/blue wires in the center console, or did you run wires under the dash to the main illumination distribution block thingy? -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
[MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
Hello all, I recently replaced the camber strut, thrust arm, and torque strut links on my 1987 300D. The old torque strut bushings were OK, but the thrust arm was pretty shot. The camber struts looked like they still had some life left - ie, no cracks in the bushings. Prior to replacing the links, I had some slight (but visible) negative camber in the rear but tire wear wasn't uneven. With the new links, there is no noticeable negative camber (and as a result I get slight tire rubbing on the rear fenders, which I didn't have before, doh!) and the rear sits about an inch higher than it did before. Of course, I torqued all the fasteners down only after raising the rear axle such that the distance from the center of the hub to the top of the fender was the same as when the car was sitting on the wheels. My question is this: Do these cars "settle down" or experience camber changes after a bit of driving, when the rear links are replaced? I didn't touch the rear tie rod yet, and as I understand it, this is the only piece on the rear suspension that affects alignment values. Thanks for any input, -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
Thanks everyone! Perhaps the cause of my "lack of" negative camber was due to the old camber strut being somewhat worn out...? Anyhow, after driving around for a bit yesterday, I measured the height from the center of the center cap to the tip of the fender, and it's about 14" - pretty much what it was before swapping out the links. I suppose I should get the rear fenders rolled soon. Peter: Yes, with stock wheels/tires/suspension, the rear tire *shouldn't* touch the fender. I'm right at the limit of clearance - I have 235/45/17 rear tires on a 17x8.25 ET34 wheel. Previously, I had *just* enough negative camber to avoid rubbing, even with two passengers and luggage in the trunk! Dave: I'll take some pics of the aluminum arm soon. As for alignment, I'm waiting for my new front LCA's to arrive, so I'll install those and the new rear tie rod before taking it to the stealer for the final alignment. The rear bushing at the wheel carrier end of the spring link needs some funky special tool (which I don't have) and the local MB indy can do it for about $100 (parts + labor) so I'll probably go that route. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
Dave, the fronts are the 5-spoke 17x8 ET37 "E430 sport" wheels, and the rears are R129 wheels which look EXACTLY like the fronts but are 17x8.25 ET34. As for the control arms, I went with the regular 124-330-35/34-07 ones - late style with the non-removable ball joint. They were a LOT cheaper than the Sportline ones, that's for sure! On a side note, you should pick up the 2006 "Geniune Mercedes-Benz Accessories Wheels" brochure from your local MB dealer. They have LOTS of neat looking wheels with part numbers and all dimensions. The W209, R171, and W203 all have a good selection of 17x7.5 ET37 wheels, which IMO is the perfect size wheel for a lowered non-500E 124! If you can't get ahold of the catalog, I can send one over... -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] Delivery valve socket for sale
Another option for this tool is the Koken one which I picked up a while ago on eBay from "El Paso Tool" - it's this one here: http://tinyurl.com/dq7to It's actually an excellent quality socket, and made in Japan. Many Japanese diesels use Bosch pumps, so methinks that they have similar delivery valve nuts as our MBs. -Aaron
[MBZ] Looking to rent differential bushing puller/press tool
Hello all, Does anyone know where I can rent the puller/press tool to r&r the two bushings at the rear of the differential where it mounts to the subframe? The factory tool from MB (124-589-01-43-00) is around $500!! :O -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
[MBZ] 124 front control arm removal
Hi all, The FSM mentions the use of a spreader tool to expand the joint in the steering knuckle in case it's too tight. Has anyone actually had to use this tool to r&r the control arms, or will a BFH / prybar do the job? -Aaron
[MBZ] Rear differential mounts - I've been defeated
Hello all, This morning I *attempted* to replace my differential mounts. On the 124, there are four mounts - two are "stacked" at the front of the diff and two are side by side at the rear. Anyhow, I began by raising the ass of the car in the air, supporting on jackstands, supporting the diff, and loosening the diff mounting bolts. Easy enough so far - but for the two 12mm hex bolts make sure you use a GOOD hex socket - NOT an L shaped hex wrench on an extension! The bolt at the front is an 8mm hex, and you must counterhold the 17mm nut at the top. Next, I lowered the diff enough to get the puller tool in position. So far so good - the pulling tool worked like a charm and I was feeling pretty good about the job so far. It is indeed a nice feeling when a pricey "special tool" seems like it's doing the job nicely. And the plot thickens - I started feeling some resistance as I cranked my ratchet on the pulling tool. I figured this was normal, and continued cranking. Resistance began increasing, so I backed off the tool completely and saw that the mount was halfway out. Okay, so maybe it's a bit stubborn. I sprayed some more PB blaster in there, let it sit for a while, came back, and continued cranking. There was still some substantial resistance although the tool WAS gradually pressing the mount out. A little more cranking and *BRAP* - the bolt of the tool sheared in half. (Don't worry Kevin - I'm searching for a replacement bolt and if I can't find one, I'll buy you a new tool). Shit. Now what? The mount is halfway out, can't be hammered out any further, and I'm stuck with a broken special tool. I tried using a smaller bolt and a nut to run the puller tool, and I still encountered awful resistance. Applying more force with my ratchet sheared the threads right off the aforementioned nut. Ugh. The disc part of the puller fits VERY snugly into the receiving end of the subframe - there is literally no wiggle room and it seems to be contacting the metal edge of the mount appropriately and pressing it out into the cup. So, why is there so much resistance once the mount is halfway out? Anyhow, I buttoned everything back up, put away my tools, and pounded a few beers. I'll try again tomorrow, and if not, my frustration may be adequate to justify hauling the car off to an indy. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Will these wheels fit a 124?
Alex, Many new MBs come with staggered (wider in the rear) wheels from the factory. For those SLK wheels, the fronts will be a perfect fit but the rears will probably rub if you have weight in the back seat or trunk. A non 500E 124 can handle an 8" rear wheel just fine, but the offset should be ET37 ideally. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD On 1/5/06, Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > http://tinyurl.com/dpl44 > > And do SLKs really come with different size rims on the front and back > like the seller implies? I never heard of any Mercedes like that from > the factory. Seems uncharacteristically impractical. > > Alex Chamberlain > '87 300D Turbo > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] Wood Refinish Guy
http://www.heritagewoodworks.com/ -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] More info about Ssangyong Mercs
They also have an intercooled OM602 in one of their SUV's -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] Evaporator cleaning - update
Cool beans Dave. I should probably try this sometime, because AFAIK my car has the original evap. I'm guessing your procedure looked similar to this? http://www.geocities.jp/mbw124note/air/coolingfan.htm -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] 1992 300D 2.5T
I personally think the 124 has one of the best-executed automotive gluteus maximi ever. In the words of Victoria's Secret, "very sexy". -Aaron 1987 300D On 1/18/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I'm not sure. The offense to my eye is the 'low-entry' trunk > style, especially when coupled with the angled rear opening > and the associated cat's-eye taillights. And right now nearly > _everything_ is that way. Ugh.
Re: [MBZ] Euro light level control (was: CR headlight bulbs)
The deal with the switches is a bit weird. All 123, 126, and early 124 models with SLS had a different switch (I'm not sure if the vacuum bleed values are different or not) with different markings instead of the regular 0-3 numerals. Later 124 models had an entirely different switch that was used throughout the 124 range, whether SLS equipped or not. The later switch is preferable because it has check valves integrated into the switch itself and the numbers are on the trimpiece (versus the switch) so they light up at night. -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] Sound panels, was Nice 190D Low Miles
They are pretty expensive to buy new, considering that they're not much more than shaped pieces of plastic lined with foam. Here's what they look like brand new, for a 124 diesel: http://w124.f0e.net/124_goodies/sound_panels/ -Aaron
[MBZ] Cheap 87 300TD
Potential rustbucket. Hard to tell from the lack of pictures. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4609667109 -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] Sound panels, was Nice 190D Low Miles
These panels are the newest versions available for a 1987 300D. I assumed your car would have the same ones, but the EPC indicates that the engine, transmission, and one side panel are different for the 300D 2.5 and also for the E300D. The side ones are usually intact, but the foam disintegrates and falls apart after a while. -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] '97 320 seats into a '93 300?
No, W210 seats are entirely different from W124 seats and they aren't interchangeable. -Aaron On 2/3/06, Lee Levitt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Does anybody know if a pair of seats out of a '97 320 will work in > my '93 300? The seats are powered and heated (as are mine). I'm > wondering if its a simple R&R or whether the tracks & wiring will > be different... > > TIA, > > Lee > '93 300D 2.5L 182K
Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5
Another thing I recommend doing is replacing the plastic throttle linkage sockets with the old-style metal ones. The plastic ones are prone to breaking and when they do, you'll be stranded with a car that just idles. -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] Throttle Linkage - was GP Install - 91 300D 2.5
Whoops, I should have clarified that a bit. The metal sockets are available separately but my approach is to scrounge a handful of pieces at pick-and-pull. The stock OM60x links have a threaded metal shaft and the plastic links are pressed on at the ends. You remove the metal sockets from the junkyard rods and screw them onto your existing links, securing the socket with the 8mm locknut. Make sure you measure the old links first before removing the plastic sockets! -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] W124 center console removal
Pulling back the carpet will reveal one phillips screw. Remove this screw and pull upward (gently) on the wood. -Aaron 1987 300D
[MBZ] OM603 cylinder head removal - special tools?
Hello all, Tomorrow morning I'm attempting to remove a cylinder head from an 87 300D that's in a local junkyard. Besides the triple square socket, what other special tools are absolutely required? The FSM makes note of a few such as the timing chain slide-rail puller, but I figured I'd ask because sometimes alternatives can be improvised. Also, can part of the exhaust manifold (and the turbo possibly) be left attached to the cylinder head when it's being removed? PS: If anyone's in the SF Bay Area and can possibly lend a hand tomorrow morning, shoot me an email off list... Thanks in advance for any assistance, Aaron
Re: [MBZ] OM603 cylinder head removal - special tools?
Thanks for all the replies! With the help of Joe Knight, the head complete with cams is now mine. Pulling it wan't too awful, but we had to break the timing chain because the lower rail pin was FUBAR thanks to the idiot who hammered it into the head. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
[MBZ] OM60x Fan and fan clutch compatibility / differences
Hello all, I plan on replacing the fan and fan clutch on a 1987 300D. From Rusty's site, a new fan (plastic type) with clutch is $314 for the 87 300D, but for a 1996-1999 W210 E300D the fan is $41 and the clutch is $88! Does anyone know if the later model W210 fan and fan clutch will work on the OM603, and if so, the differences in coupling temperature? Supposedly the 1987 300D fan and fan clutch were superseded to the parts used on the 1995 E300D. I don't know what's different about the W210 parts, but if they work, that would be great news! -Aaron 1987 300D
Re: [MBZ] W124.193 Rear arms
It's pretty straightforward once you have all the parts in hand. Keep in mind that the original links have all been superseded to the new-style ones on the W210 and you'll need a "bolt kit" for the camber, thrust, and torque links. The toe link can be a bit stubborn but should come loose with a BFH. The rear axle must be level when torquing everything down. I did this by first measuring from the center of the wheel cap to the fender lip, and then raising the axle (underneath the spring arm) until the distance from center of the wheel hub to the fender lip was the same as my first measurement. -Aaron 1987 300D
Re: [MBZ] Mechanics on the Road
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php3?s=&daysprune=30&f=14 Try searching the archives too, and specify that particular forum when you search. -Aaron 1987 300D (three's a crowd) 1987 300TD (lonely wagon)
Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat
Ralph, Fortunately these pods are among the easier ones to replace. Early 87's have two pods (a bit of a PITA to R&R because of the pressed on lock washers) and early models have a single pod which unclips easily. They're accessible after removing the climate control unit. -Aaron 1987 300D On 1/16/07, Ralph W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Can anyone give me an idea where the floor heat vacuum pod lives under the dash of a 124? I've got heat out the side vents and defroster but nothing going to the floor. I'm assuming that the pod for the heat flaps to the floor is bad. Can I get to this without removing the dash. I've fixed a 123 from the side panels. Is the 124 set up the same way? It's too darn cold to drive without floor heat. A hot torso and frostbit legs just doesn't get it.
Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat
If you have an early 87, there's two round pods that control floor heat, one for each side. The early style is a bit of a PITA to replace because of the friction-fit press washers. The later style uses a single flat rectangular pod to operate both flaps, and it's a lot easier to replace. FWIW, I was able to R&R the early style pods by removing only the climate control unit. -Aaron On 1/17/07, Ralph W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: So I'm a bit confused. How many pods control the floor heat? Is it better to just buy new or alot cheaper to rebuild? I think I'll start by pulling the radio as it's also due for replacement and see what's accessable from there.
Re: [MBZ] 124 squirrely rear, yet again
Alex, I had a similar issue on my 87 300D recently, about a year after completely rebuilding the rear subframe. What I discovered was a 12 point axle nut had worked its way loose (I forgot to hammer in the locking tab... oops!) and the axle was shifting in and out on bumps. -Aaron 87 300D On 10/17/07, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > One of the wheels wasn't tightened properly and is becoming loose? > > >>I did get new tires a couple of months ago, too, and I > > > suppose one could be defective (or out of balance, though I don't feel > > > the typical vibration). > > > > > > Any guesses or input? > > > > > > Alex Chamberlain > > > '87 300D Turbo "Twitchy" ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
