Some days I'd swear they are really "masculinity challenge annunciators"
-j.
On Wed, 13 Sep 2006, OK Don wrote:
> Fuel is pooling on top of the injection pump and stinking in the SDL.
> My first thought is that one or two of the delivery valve seals are
> leaking. The car had been sitting for four or five days since it was
> last driven, then took a good 40 seconds or more
On Wed, 13 Sep 2006, OK Don wrote:
> Do you have a crow's foot type socket to torque the injection line
> fittings, or just pull with an open end wrench?
The only thing I've used a crowsfoot on is a 606. You almost have to use
one on the injector ends. Make sure the ends of the lines and the are
I have been leaving the blower unplugged since it was running constantly,
and diagnosed it to be a bad regulator (99% certainty)
According to Rusty, the break point for the blower/regulator/mounting
plate was in the 1999 model year, and my specimen fell after the break
point, so did not need th
On Thu, 7 Sep 2006, redghost wrote:
> tenants), I stopped at the PnP. No tools. Was looking for the red
WHAT?!?!
In a pinch I will unwrap the (virgin) tool roll in the trunk. (You do have
one, right?) I also have a 30 cal can there (Perfect for a car with an
om617, with the usual suspects (
On Sat, 2 Sep 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Too heavy, too long, won't fit.
Bork? check out them crazy finns
-j.
On Fri, 1 Sep 2006, Luther Gulseth wrote:
> wide open target, think barn door
Fish in a bucket, with a 12ga?
-j.
How about a 606 Turbo/IC into a 202? (okay so I'm dreaming given all the
electronics needed to keep a 606 alive and purring)
Didnt they have some C320's? wouldnt that car be a good candidate for a 6
cyl diesel?
-j.
On Fri, 1 Sep 2006, Jim Cathey wrote:
> No, that's stock for SDL.
Bork? in an 87? I thought they just got motorized headrests. Cool.
BTW I figured it was the regulator (porcupine)
-j.
add my lazy ass to the banned list :)
Thx.
-j.
It's not mine, it is my brother's. Lots of deferred maintenance (air
conditioning compressor. Blower motor (regulator or push button unit, i
think, it runs if you directly feed it 12v, and I havent personally
messed with it (ie resoldering)). Cassette emitted smoke (AM/FM works)
Broken Left tai
Oh no! I think its missing some options (ortho seats and bun toasters)
Were the stains on the engine where you sat your sandwich :) ?
Where did they stick the radar receiver (I'm betting behind the plastic
bumper...) (That is a radar detector, right?)
-j
On Thu, 31 Aug 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I've removed the front brake rotors from my 1990 300SE (126) with the
> hubs/bearings intact. I got the allen bolts out but haven't been able to
> separate the rotors from the center hubs. I wonder if I could get some advice
> on a couple of things
On Thu, 31 Aug 2006, OK Don wrote:
> Wow - I think that's the first non-mechanical MB odometer I've ever seen - on.
Yeha, it took some getting used to... At least the gauges are still
"analog" (nevermind that the "connections" are via a CAN bus)
-j.
Ooops the part number for the "new" stuff is 605 078 05 81.. it is a kidna
greyish fiber cover with a orangish stripe.
-j.
On Sat, 26 Aug 2006, Zoltan Finks wrote:
> > the specialty places for compatible hose except for the return lines,
> > they generally carry those here :
> >
> > http://www.greaseworks.org/index.php?module=pncommerce&func=itemview&ItemID=39
The inside diameter of the hose for a '99 E300D is the sam
Sacrifice a lug-bolt by creatively cutting a slot along the threads near
the bottom (off-center, ie about 1/3 way in from the top right with the
bolt end facing you).. make the slot about 6 threads long and a bit deeper
than the threads themselves (it can taper to nothing at the end closest to
So wtf do we get the ULSD then?
I have yet to see a single station in the baltimore area (or the couple I
know of in reston, or along I70-US15-VA267 that I know of which has
anything other than the LSD (federal law prohibits ... 2007 and newer
vehicles...)
*grr*
Any thoughts on ML-TD and the R
On Tue, 29 Aug 2006, OK Don wrote:
> > A 124 with the same engine will have the same problem. Do not ask how I know
> > this.
As will a 210
Also leaking return hoses can cause this too.
(Speaking of which I have to do mine this weekend. I used the stff for a
61x since that is what I had on hand, a
On Tue, 29 Aug 2006, Kevin wrote:
> Someone (Ritter?) had a post somewhere if you search for 126 subframe
> bushings that detailed making this tool. Sliding fluid or Syl-Glide from
> NAPA will be your friend in this case.
All-thread, washers, nuts.
Silicone Spray
floor jack.
-j.
On Wed, 23 Aug 2006, OK Don wrote:
> http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.183/.f
> "Name change in 2006: From CaiLube MCL to DeoxIT FaderLube, part
> numbers remain the same)"
Yep that is the stuff. It is really great on pots, btw.
> I haven't had to do much re-soldering, I never thought of r
On Wed, 23 Aug 2006, LarryT wrote:
> Or is the VR the only thing that will typically go bad in a alternator?
Diode packs CAN fail. The VR also has the brushes which wear, and it has a
spring/leaf connection to the diode pack. That can develop corrosion with
... interesting... results. Remove t
On Mon, 21 Aug 2006, Robert & Tara Ludwick wrote:
> I get the good stuff for killing nasties at the diesel pump shop. 1 jug
> of Killem treats some insane amount of fuel about 1900 gallons. costs
> around $25 good stuff ( probably one of the only useful things that FPPF
> produces , don't ever u
On Tue, 22 Aug 2006, OK Don wrote:
> I've already re-soldered this unit once - but the switches act dirty.
> I bought another one to work on, so I'll see if I can get some de-oxit
> (?) into the switches, then re-solder the thing. There sure are a lot
> of connections on those boards!
Use deoxit.
On Tue, 22 Aug 2006, dave walton wrote:
> If you go with a 99, you get Traction Control (ASR) standard, and
> Stability Control (ESP) optional. Check the window sticker - some late
> 98's may have one or both. The front upper spring mounts rust away
> under the paint and goop they were covered with
On Sat, 19 Aug 2006, Jim Cathey wrote:
> It's front vs rear. The rear circuit locked on until the heat blew
> the lines and released the brakes. I can't think of anything that'd
> cause this except a bad MC, though a good visual inspection of the lines
> to the rear is called for.
Bad hoses at th
On Sat, 19 Aug 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I've been finding water on the floor behind the passenger seat after a rain.
> This occurs with or without the car being driven. Any thoughts?
Sunroof drains plugged?
Leaky windsheild seal?
Leaky rear window seal?
-j.
On Tue, 15 Aug 2006, John Peterson wrote:
> $2.98 a gallon in New Hampshire on Sunday.
Tue/Weds I paid 2.99/g, it dropped thursday or friday to 2.89/g (NoVA, US
15 south of the Potomac/north of leesburg (2x Gasmart, 1x Getty))
Btw gasbuddy can be a help.
-j.
I'm sure it has been said, but the last E300 diesel was the 99
TurboDiesel, then 2005-2006 is the E320CDI (I hear they are great, see a
few of them on the road, but haven't talked to an owner).
The 99 E300 is a FANTASTIC car :):) (okay, I'm still walking funny b/c the
last maintenance turned up
Speaking of diodes, does anyone have need of a diode pack for a OM617 type
alternator?
-j.
On Sun, 6 Aug 2006, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> I guess Im going to have to start resoldering these things.
Don't forget to re-coat the things with confromal coating when you are
done; those old boards are phenolic (at best) which is slightly
hygroscopic. In another 20 yrs or so it might become
On Mon, 31 Jul 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> And when the return hoses leack, you can get about a quart of fuel filling
> the injecter holes. Had to replace hose today. What a mess. BioD eats the
> foam gasket on the useless black plastic doohickey.
Yeah thats a ROYAL PITA. you need about 1
On Thu, 27 Jul 2006, Jim Cathey wrote:
> > what items need to be removed to replace these ?.
>
> Anything that isn't oily. You think I'm kidding?
Actually it is more efficient to remove your hands, shrink them and glue
them to ends of lawnmower throttle cable so you have proper flexibility
I
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006, Marshall Booth wrote:
> A plugged main fuel filter can take a few seconds off the 0-60 time and
> limit hill climbing capacity and top speed. Paradoxically, fuel economy
> often suffers as well.
Admittedly this was an OM617, but I had a plugged pre-filter that gave me
grief
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006, Mitch Haley wrote:
> Maybe Kaleb should get himself a body saw and make a 300PD.
The guy i bought my first MB (the 84 300sd that got whacked) made a "300T"
out of a 300TD... yep he gave it the el camino treatment and it looked
pretty decent.
-j.
On Sun, 9 Jul 2006, Steve MacSween wrote:
> HOWEVER, I did today decide to pull the thermostat (3 mos. old) and see what
> difference it might make.
Umm the thermostate deisgn in the mercedes engine is a little unique--
there are two plates, one opens as the t-stat warms and the other
closes...
On Sun, 9 Jul 2006, Desert Rat wrote:
> You're talking turbo vs. non turbo here.Turbo is very rare.
IIRC turbo had about 2000 imported...
-j.
On Wed, 28 Jun 2006, Craig McCluskey wrote:
> I really liked the 7900 series modular scopes. We had a 7904 back at UT
> Austin that was very helpful with the kinds of signals we needed to see.
> The image intensifying CRT enabled me to see 10 Hz signals (from our YAG
> laser) at 5 ns/division with
I used a BIG vise and big sockets for the rubber mounting bushings.
The other part (the rubber bushing with the ball joint in the center) is
evil; it has a steel band around the outside and is pressed into
aluminum..
The directions say "knock out with plastic hammer", but I am convinced to
th
On Fri, 23 Jun 2006, Robert & Tara Ludwick wrote:
> I lucked out last week. Local parts store hadn't been selling any of it
> except to me, and they put the whole lot on clearance for half price...I
> cleaned them out :-)
Cool! I happen to have a part of a tube or two... It looks like Permatex
MB coolant is a pale yellow like grease...
MB wheel bearing grease is an almost neon green, like "regular" american
antifreeze...
Go figure :)
-j.
On Thu, 15 Jun 2006, Sunil Hari wrote:
> it's funny - Lucas electrics have such a bad rap, but my 115 had lucas
> foglights that worked perfectly after 30+ years. Don't know if that's the
> exception or the norm.
They didn't have any MOVING parts in conjunction with electricity.
> Lucas, Prince o
On Wed, 14 Jun 2006, John M McIntosh wrote:
> Lastly anything that has Bosch written on it seems prone to failure,
> if I could excise that vendor from my benzs I'd be happier...
Make sure to find Lucas replacements when you do!
-j.
The jeep is mentoned in the article as being 50 state compliant
http://www.greencarcongress.com/2006/01/daimlerchrysler.html
-j.
> But a 124 with a 603.96 engine is faster yet!
>
> Marshall
Hows that compare to a 210.025 :)
-j.
(1999 210.025/125.6k Miles)
(1985 123.133/222k Miles)
I thought the "modern" (XJ/1984-2001) cherokees were lighter, I seem to
recall that they were 3000-3100lbs, where the "Full Size" jeeps (earlier
cherokees/wagoneers, and grand cherokee/wagoneer through 1993 (SJ body
style)) were in the 4500lb neighborhood...
Those I-6's are pretty respectable
On Tue, 6 Jun 2006, Striplin Admin account wrote:
> Can someone please tell me where the procedure resides in the CD manual,
> for R&R-ing the ignition tumbler in an '82 W126? My neighbor down the
> street just bought an '82 300SD and was warned not to remove the
> ignition key, lest he never be a
Last head gasket i bought from Rusty was Victor-Reinz (sp?) (made by Dana,
the axle/diff/Wix people)
-j.
On Thu, 1 Jun 2006, Sunil Hari wrote:
> the insurance company will probably try to total your car and give you $2000
> for it. If this happens, hire legal representation and stick it to them.
Two words: NADA Classics.
Have receipts too btw, but since it isnt on KBB anymore, its NADA classic
onl
On Wed, 31 May 2006, archer wrote:
> and supplies that an MB owner should have in his trunk if he were going to
> make a nationwide tour and wanted to do his own repairs on the road. A
> useful addition to the list might be the locations and telephone numbers of
> mechanics and of junkyards tha
On Wed, 24 May 2006, Kevin J. Slater wrote:
> 2) If anyone is familiar with the DMV regulations in VA, what are the
> requirements for buying and transporting a car out of state? Obviously,
> this assumes driving it away; putting it on a trailer is a known quantity.
I'd think you would want to loo
On Mon, 22 May 2006, Rich Thomas wrote:
> That happened to me about 10 yr ago, still paying -- networks, DSL,
> everybody has a machine, OSs, software, cables, new gadgets and cards
> and drives, etc etc. Worse than crack.
Ditto, recently most of the coin has been going for network and ups stu
On Mon, 22 May 2006, Marshall Booth wrote:
> I believe that OM61x injection pumps changed to using splined delivery
> valves in the early '80s but I don't have a specific date. I know that
> the '84 and '85s I've owned or seen used splined pipe fitting. I don't
> recall if my '82 did. All of my
On Sat, 20 May 2006, Zeitgeist wrote:
> '90-'93 300D 2.5 Good luck finding one, though. A '95 E300D would be
> another nice choice, if you can do without a turbo--I can't.
Thats part of the reason I went for the E300Dt... (99)... woot woot.
I don't think I've been able to wipe the silly smile of
On Thu, 18 May 2006, Luther Gulseth wrote:
> Copper clad steel
The high tension transmission lines are aluminium conductors wrapped
around a steel strength member. I've seen the stuff layong on the ground.
-j.
On Wed, 17 May 2006, Zeitgeist wrote:
> I got the tip from some folks over at MB-Shop. Apparently they've
> been running it for over a year with no problems. I just got tired of
> these things wearing out every year when running bio. Hell, even with
> straight dino they don't last that long. L
On Wed, 17 May 2006, Bob DuPuy wrote:
> Geez guys catch your breath, Bruce was asking about an 82 300CD. last
> time I check they came with the 5 cyl 617 engine! I remember a copper
> seal but not an O-ring on those. I wish I was an EPC Guru and could
> check for sure.
OOOPS. Sorry. The 61x's use
On Wed, 17 May 2006, Marshall Booth wrote:
> Zeitgeist wrote:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/enter.asp?partnum=5119K111+
That looks like 1/8" viton .. 3.175mm.. sounds close enough. What about
abrasion resistance? How much pressure do those lines see-- it is gravity
rated only. (and also not b
On Wed, 17 May 2006, Loren Faeth wrote:
> 7x 603 078 01 41 (Injection pipe clips)
> 7x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe shims--trim them on one side)
> 2x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe clips)
> 1x 606 141 01 80 (Intake manifold gasket)
>
> 6x 017 997 41 48 (Bosch 1-460-210-321 O-ring, you may want s
I know the DAS-3 (and DAS-2) fobs are car/chassis specific .. the
switchblades you just stick in the ignition and wait.. the plastic keys...
dealer.
Reprogramming them to work on another car... thats why there are so many
of them on ebay for cheap. They are usable for the plastic casings only.
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006, ned kleinhenz wrote:
> OK, This is basic stuff. But I've always wondered...
> Is it necessary to replace the gasket everytime I remove and reinstall the
> intake manifold on my 606?
I know I wouldn't (Turbo OM606), but on a NA, there shouldn't be too much
difference in press
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> If I were a cop I would be reluctant to to be seen in a Saturn police car. A
> contradiction in terms if I ever heard of one. And if a Crown Vic with a cage
> barely has enough room for one drunk, just imagine getting one in a Saturn..
> What's next
Yes, they can be expensive to maintain... (but so can any 20+ year old
car. When is the last time you tried to buy parts (say an egr valve for a
F**d, even one thats only say 12-15 years old?))
I was getting unsure and was starting to look towards a VW Jetta TDI (97
mi each way every day), whe
On Sat, 22 Apr 2006, David Brodbeck wrote:
> Some of the newest turbos use variable-geometry vanes to regulate boost,
> instead of a wastegate. VW's more recent turbos are like this, I think.
My E300td uses a non-variable turbo, but no wastegate... of course since
it has an electronically govern
I found that the bulbs themselves get dimmer over time; apparently the
inside of the bulb darkens (from boiled-off filament?)..replaceing the
bulbs themselves (with the PROPER bulbs from Rusty) is the best fix and
keeps all functionality
-j.
Aren't trucks the major cause of pollution on the roadways? Don't they
currently have virtually no emissions controls? Meanwhile, there are 5
states where you cannot buy a diesel car (even with so many emissions
controls that you can't see the engine through them) because of "pollution
issues"
On Sun, 26 Mar 2006, ms.300SD wrote:
And velour too! It's right out of "That 70's Show"
> Oh yeah. Man, that's a gorgeous color. drool.
>
> Lynn
> 1985 300SD "Victoria" 204K miles
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006, Stuart Saxonberg wrote:
> Epiphany: Silicone Spray Lubricant.
> That is all.
Works great on sunroof seals too!
And subframe bushings to boot!
-j.
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006, Marshall Booth wrote:
> usually suggest changing pumps at least every 200kmi. The pump used on
> the OM606 is the same design as was used on earlier OM60x engines
> although there have been several revisions (each intended to increase
> reliability) since that style was intr
On Mon, 13 Mar 2006, Craig McCluskey wrote:
> Was it an eBay special, with exorbitant shipping to miss the fees?
Maybe it was but I'm not so sure.. UPS is exorbitant (I went to UPS, did
not use the ebay tool) when the weight exceeds 120 lbs Since it is
3000VA 208 in/out with 400VA of 120, it
> I'm sure different dealers have different policies. I have never had
> to show any proof of anything to get keys or coded lock cylinders. I
> have an ongoing working relationship with the nearest dealer and
> another on Long Island. I call in the VIN and either they mail me the
> pa
On Mon, 13 Mar 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Jim(JFreezn),
> Do you know where to get ALDA shaft seals? Dave M said you might have been
> the person who sold them in the past.
Jim sold them in the past, but if he is unable to answer, they are
obtainable from your local bosch authorized distrib
On Sun, 12 Mar 2006, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> $25 from rusty, I think rusty still gets them.
Sadly he can't.. something about not being able to read the
registration/MB requires in-person presentation of registration/pick up of
keys or somesuch.
-j.
On Sun, 12 Mar 2006, OK Don wrote:
> Crap - mine is a rack mount - APC 2200 with six or eight batteries
> that slide into the case - thigh fit when they're not damaged. My
> batteries aren't overheating yet, but they don't provide near the run
> time I thought they might. I'll have to check them so
On Sun, 12 Mar 2006, Zoltan Finks wrote:
> Good to hear. Wonder if they are the same type in terms of the fall-apart
> plastic head.
Unfortunately the heads rip otu where the metal "T" rests in them. Heads
are almost as much as the keys.
-j.
On Sat, 11 Mar 2006, Sunil Hari wrote:
> $100? Jeez, MB tries to soak you at every chance.
That doesn't include the gleitpaste (sp?) :P ...thats extra, though it
should be complimentary ;) (Probably because some of us misuse it on our
sunroofs :)
On Sat, 11 Mar 2006, Sunil Hari wrote:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] why did Johann or Thor or whoever torque the rear diff
> fill bolt so
> darn tight in every MB i've owned. Drives me freaking nuts when I want to
> flush/fill it. And in the 124 cars, the muffler is now in the way of
> getting a good po
On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Has anyone seen one of these? What's included? It says the info about a
> specific vehicle when it rolled off the assembly line but I'm wondering how
> complete that info is? Colors, Options, engine #, trans #, ??
>From what I recall (Pic in the
> My poor W124 only has two.
My 210 has 6 :)
-j.
On Thu, 9 Mar 2006, Chuck Landenberger wrote:
> A timing chain gets longer because of wear of its component metal
> parts causing its length to increase, not due to any flexibility of
> its parts
The tensioner has to be replaced (or reset if you are cheap) when the
chain is replaced. That
The trim is pulled out after the window and rubber are out of the car. It
bends VERY easily and looks like crap when it does.
IIRC I did something "cheap" and used a couple of bits of high density
foam (you could also make little "rolls" of electrical tape) and use it
to hold the wire in the m
I guess they aren't any good for a w210?
-j.
On Wed, 8 Mar 2006, Peter Frederick wrote:
> Rear rubber can easily be done on jack stands, usually not too hard.
> May need to use the bolt to pull the rubber into the subframe on the
> front mounts.
Actually you need allthread nuts and washers to push the old one out,
IIRC.
The new one slide
On Wed, 8 Mar 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Hyundai's are something that WAS crap in the early 90's. I drove a friend's
> Excel that had about 12 inches of play in the steering wheel. Scared me to
> death to drive that thing. But from what I've read, the Hyundai's have come
> a LONG way in
On Tue, 7 Mar 2006, Marshall Booth wrote:
> That is one of the cheaper places to buy diesel in Virginia. Over in
> Fairfax you'll pay much more and less over just north of Winchester on
> US 522.
Hmm.. next time I head out that way I'll check. I suffered sticker shock
when I saw the prices in R
On Tue, 7 Mar 2006, BillR wrote:
> I only meant to say that the new Hyundai reached and cruised at 80 with
> relative ease.
Okay, so a new Hyundai will reach 80 with relative ease... how about for
fairness we compare to a newer MB diesel, or in the alternative, compare
an older MB to an older Hy
That chart seems a bit off;
I've been consistently paying $2.459 for it just south of the Md/VA border
on US15
-j.
I had precisely this behavior on my wife's 300D (1985). It was a bad
relay... the thing had a cup of water in it; the o-ring under the top (at
the mounting side) had cracked and had a 1/2" wide gap. water must have
trickled down the inside of the fender (from the edge of the hood?) and
down beh
Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, Over
-j.
Thats cool. Wish I had a 123 with that low of mileage :):)
I used to have one (this probably doesnt count) of my wife's old corolla
at 131313 miles. shortly thereafter it developed an allergy to the clutch
(started slipping real bad)... given its advanced stage of skin cancer, it
wasn't worth
On Thu, 2 Mar 2006, John Berryman wrote:
> So how much air space does that leave?
I'm going from the MB CD here (job 46-715)
For the VT 49 and ZL 49 pumps, the reservoir is properly filled when the
cold (20C) oil level is 6-8mm below the embossed or cast mark inside the
pump.
For the VT
I noticed that on my 1984 126 (before it was shortened by an
inattentive driver) that the paper element with the metal top left a small
(1/8" gap) between the top plate and the appropriate sealing surface of
the pump, which would have the net effect of letting oil completely bypass
the filter..
On Thu, 2 Mar 2006, Loren Faeth wrote:
> Yeah, but Marshall never told you to replace the fuses for that side. So I
> will
Before your pistons melt :):)
-j.
On Thu, 2 Mar 2006, John Berryman wrote:
> lots of holes, when you move the fluid out of the way. Leave some
> breathing room when you fill it. There is no fill line, I leave an
> inch or so space.
The fill line is the points of the triangles on the side of the plastic
spindle inside the reser
I'd buy BioD exclusively, even at a higher cost, if I didn't have to drive
20-25 miles off of my commute (97mi each way) to get the stuff, especially
when there's a diesel pump ~50 feet off of my commute... (I'd put up with
2-3 miles out of the way, but I pass at least 3 fuel stations with pump
Loose grounds can cause all sorts of fun; on the 85 300D I had the
following symptoms:
RH blinker would not work with lights on and in reverse
-or- with lights on and foot on brake
RH Front blinker and dash blinker was illuminating very dimly under those
conditions, and somewhat noticably when
On Tue, 28 Feb 2006, ms.300SD wrote:
> Lynn
> a self-admitted black licorice junkie, who loves driving her 300SD,
> Victoria, even in the rain
Actually I found some twizzlers bites (or nips?) that had licorice
extract listed on the ingredients. Most candies do seem to be using anise
instead
On Sun, 26 Feb 2006, Desert Rat wrote:
> If it were my MB, I would be sure it has Mobil 1 in the crankcase and
> change it out right now.
It does have M1 in the crankcase
-j.
On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> ratchet decided to let go. I smashed the nail on my pinky-finger, and
> will probably lose it in time--yes, it hurts.
If you catch it while the blood is still pooling underneath (before it
coagulates), take a small (3/32") sharp (brand new!) drill
On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Curt Raymond wrote:
> It's not just the Toyotas and Hondas, - when I owned a MB parts &
> accessories mail order business I heard all kinds of things -- people would
> say, "It's an $80,000 automobile - I should *never* have to check or add
> oil!!"
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