First I would attempt to print. I've been surprised before.
If it's clogged, those printers typically have a removable head. Get
some bulk ink and refillable cartridges (this will cost less than new
carts from the official source), remove the printhead, and apply some
diluted Windex or
It's a standard radiator cap. A pressurizer should fit well enough to
pump it up.
Peter
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Very likely it's either out of fuel or you have a badly leaking line.
timing belt would make a lot of noise when it went as the valves hit
the pistons.
Have you checked the accuracy of the fuel gauge?
Peter
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Lol, a bomber (besides Wilton) is a 20 oz bottle. More than I can
drink at a sitting these days, but my younger friends love them.
Peter
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I had the same problem with two Quantum lawn mower engines. Seems as
they age the safety brake cable that also runs the cut-off stretches a
bit (and is non-adjustable, for obvious reasons) and the cut-off won't
open to let it run.
Nearly drove me nuts finding it, as it was intermittant
My brother had the same experience this spring when some idiot pulled
out in front of my niece and ripped the left headlight and fender up
on the 300E. Initial offer was $1600 and dumpster the car, my brother
vigorously objected, and they eventually admitted a comparable car in
similar
Kelley Blue Book on-line is a good resource -- they list a 1987 300E
as retailing between $4000 and $9500 depending on condition, and in a
case of accident damage they owe you the RETAIL (replacement) cost,
not the WHOLESALE (trade-in) value of the car, since their insured
damaged YOUR car
If you take a neglected tranny with ancient non-synthetic oil in it
and flush it with fresh synthetic fluid, it's possible to remove
enough varnish from the valve body that shifting problems arise.
Also, in the 70's, synthetic oils didn't have enough seal swelling
material in them, and
Ethanol can cause trouble with some rubber seals and plastic parts,
but the issue should have been addressed by now. Ethanol has been
used in gasoline for a couple decades, after all.
MTBE is actually worse, but ethanol got all the blame.
Peter
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Lol, I've been home brewing for a couple decades now.
You can indeed make decent beer at much less cost that the main line
brews bought at the liquor store, and you can make things that were
once unobtainable.
In the last twenty years, the quality of microbrewery beer has
increased quite
Replace the radiator cap.
Peter
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All posts are the result
Lower control arms come with new bushings and new ball joints, so it's
just a swap complete. Have to do a front end alignment in either case
if you replace the bushings, ball joints usually not.
Labor is about the same, it only take a couple minutes to pop the
bushings and ball joints in
The leaking points are:
fuel distributor to throttle body boot (buried on that car, you have
to remove the manifold I think, but you have to anyway, see point #2)
seals between intake manifold halves (this is an issue for all the V8s
of that design type)
Idle control valve hoses
Do not expect to take long trips in a Smart -- my brother's BIL drove
one from Karlsruhe to Berlin a few years ago just to see. He took the
train home, those tiny tires and very short wheelbase result in
constant jouncing. If it's miserable on a short trip (by American
standards) it's
Rate of convictions is probably a good predictor of number of
corruption events. In a really bad situation, there may be no
enforecement, which would lower the rate, but I suspect most of these
are state vs county or Feds vs State convictions, so the logic holds.
Not where I want to live,
I use only Pagid or Textar pads. Neither squeak, nearly all FLAPS
ones do.
Peter
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Repeat the job in a few thousand miles -- when they are tight,
carbon builds up on the valve stems, and gives you a false setting.
As the carbon wears off with the added clearance, they go tight again
and still don't seal. If they go tight in a few thousand miles, set
them at bit loose
Try KK manufacturing. They used to make nearly all the body panels
for W115 and W109 cars, so it's possible they do W123s as well. Don't
know for a fact since it's been a while since I thought about
restoring one.
Peter
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I forget, is this a diesel or a gasser? Gasser belt tensioners have
to be replaced quite often. Diesels, which have a vastly better
tensioner system, only once or twice a decade will the spring break.
Have had a few shocks go bad and knock, but the belt doesn't slip.
Peter
Quick and dirty prime is to remove the pressure cap, squeeze the
upper radiator hose flat, then crimp the small vent line to the
expansion tank shut and release the upper hose. This will pull coolant
through the lower radiator hose and heater core back into the head.
If you have a bubble,
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