Re: [MBZ] 1982 300SD Question

[barrystark]

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Re: [MBZ] howto for oil cooler line replacement?

[barrystark]

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Re: [MBZ] Restoring a W123 instrument sluster housing

[barrystark]

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Re: [MBZ] how to hold my crankshaft

[barrystark]

John -
I decided to make my own special tool as I have access to a small machine shop 
at work. I took a 4" X 6" piece of 3/8" aluminum plate and drilled it to match 
the hub bolts then bored out a 2" dia hole in the center of the bolt holes to 
accomodate the big crankshaft end bolt and the big spring washers. I had 
intended to bolt a piece of pipe to the plate with a couple of U bolts but when 
I bolted the plate in place on the hub I found that I could just wedge a 2 X 4 
between the plate and some of the surrounding bracketry to do the trick. I used 
my 1/2" breaker bar but the only thing I had to use for a cheater was a 4' 
length piece of 1 1/2" ABS pipe. The ABS pipe started to yield at the end of 
the breaker bar just as the bolt started to turn. I went ahead and popped out 
the old oil seal and used the same plate to help me install the new seal. I 
retightened the bolt using the same setup but since I didn't have a torque 
wrench that went that high I used my poor man's calibrated pipe again, that is, 
I tightened the bolt till the pipe was just starting to give up. May be a 
little off but it is plenty tight and the torque spec gives you quite a bit of 
leeway anyway. I need to change out the front crankshaft seal on my 617 engine 
in my SD as well and I'm hoping that they used the same hole spacing on that 
crankshaft hub so I can use the same tool for that job. Now if I can just 
figure out how to make the hose clamp or band with the "loom tie" catch tighten 
up on my air plenum boot where it clamps onto the throttle body, I'll have it 
made.

Barry



 John Robbins  wrote: 
> Barry Stark wrote:
> > I'm in the middle of replacing the water pump on my 380SL and it would be an
> > excellent time to replace my front crank seal as it is seeping just a little
> > but I need some way to hold the crankshaft so I can unscrew the big bolt
> > holding on the hub. Anyone have a technique that works without removing the
> > starter. Is there another good way to lock it up? Has anyone done this?
> > Hmmm...370 Newton MetersCan I loosen it with a 1/2" breaker bar or would
> > I need a cheater as well?
> 
> I have accidentally done this by leaving my breaker bar on the 
> crankshaft after I did a valve adjustment.  Started the car up and out 
> came the bolt  The shop I took it to rigged something to shove into 
> the torque converter to hold it still ( I think it was a huge 
> screwdriver or something), put it on a lift, and used a 4ft cheater bar.
> 
> John


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Re: [MBZ] What about tach? Was: Capacitors for Speedo

[barrystark]

Allan -
Before you buy anything or try to repair the amp first measure the resistance 
of the pickup coil. If you unscrew the amplifier you then measure the 
resistance between pins 7 & 9, if I remember correctly. The resistance should 
be fairly low like 200 ohms, again from memory. My pickup coil measured like 2K 
ohms and would change when I wiggled the pickup lead near the pickup down by 
the harmonic balancer pulley.

Barry


> 
> The tachometer in my 300D operates intermittently.  I've tried the
> usual tricks of cleaning the socket and pins on the sender with
> DeOxIt, which tends to help for a short while but the problem always
> returns.  Have also tried "padding" the interior of the sender cover
> to try to hold it in the socket more firmly, again no real
> improvement.
> 
> Anything that can be done with the sender itself?  It looks like a
> pretty well sealed up unit.
> 
> Allan

Re: [MBZ] Low oil pressure?

[barrystark]

Bill -
I guess you have checked the easy stuff. O-rings on the oil filter bolt, proper 
filter, proper oil viscosity? It is also pretty easy to drop the steel portion 
of the oil pan to see if there is loose stuff in there that may be being sucked 
into and blocking the the oil pump inlet screen. Case in point, when I dropped 
the pan on my SD to replace the turbo return line grommet, I found some old 
bits of gasket, from a previous repair, stuck to the oil screen. I don't think 
the bearing wear is so much a factor of age as the total miles. Especially if 
the oil has been changed regularly.

Barry


 Bill Gallagher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> The Westerbeke oil pressure reads:
> Start up diesel 65 psi
> 20 minutes operation 30 to 40 psi and drop to 20 psi a few times at 2200 rpm
> Throttle back psi go up to 50 to 55 then drops down to the 30 to 40 psi 
> range
> Change oil sender and unit two years ago and no problem for that year. 
> Last year oil pressure varied like above...he check sender and unit and 
> said it's seems O.K. resistance ...
> Westerbeke rep said bad bearings given the age of the motor..1978
> 
> Bill
> 1981 300 TD
> p.s. needs to check sender, unit, wiring etc
> 
> bearings
> 
>  goes from 30 to 50 psi
> 
> Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> > .3 is min factory spec at idle.
> >
> > Mitch Haley wrote:
> >   
> >> "Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
> >>
> >> 
> >>> If its above .3 bar its OK.
> >>>   
> >> I'm no Westerbeke expert, but .3 idle sounds low, and .3 cruising
> >> sounds deadly. I think it's normal to put a .5 bar low oil pressure
> >> alarm switch on an Atomic 4 gasser.
> >>
> >>
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> >
> >   
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Re: [MBZ] I found one!

[barrystark]

Kevin -
  
> The motor runs, but the seat doesn't go anywhere.  
likely the actuator cable has worn out ends slipping or sometimes they are 
coming out of the socket on the motor

Also, the power seat 
> switch knobs are missing leaving only little pieces to grab onto, 

if the switch isn't broken, the knobs just push on
  
> If so, does the whole door 
> panel need to be removed to do the job?

Maybe, on my '81 you had to solder in a new switch connector as the switch was 
soldered directly to the wires with no connector. Not sure of when they came 
with connectors. I believe that on the ones with the connector you just have to 
remove the trim around the switch to remove them

> Second: the central locking system doesn't work.  I know that it could be as 
> simple as a fuse, or moisture in the trunk could have damaged the pump in 
> the spare tire well since it's leaking.
What's leaking?

if the pump isn't running at all remove it and apply voltage directly. try 
reverse polarity as well. If it runs you need to plug the outlet wqith you 
finger to make it switch over and then reverse polarity to run the other way. 
If the motor is ok then you have a vacuum leak. If that is the case, i.e. good 
pump, then report that back and I will go into detail of how to diagnose that.

> Third:  AC doesn't work which isn't too big of a worry yet. > repairable just 
> can easily run into a grand or more

Re: [MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not ambienttemp) iscold

[barrystark]

Chris -
Oh well at least you don't have to do that for a while again. :^)

Barry


 Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> adjusted valves Saturday night and no change whatsoever, unfortunately.
>   
>   Chris
>   
> 
> Barry Stark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Chris -
> I'm just taking a WAG, but If your valves are just a bit tight I could see
> where it might make enough difference before the engine could warm up a bit
> and combustion chamber pressure would improve from the increased
> temperature. The glow plugs would possibly be enough to get it to start but
> when they shut off you fall short.
> 
> Barry
> 
> >
> > I stick to the schedule, so less than 15,000 miles, but I think
> > it is  coming due in 3,000 miles...so maybe it needs done. Would
> > maladjusted  valves cause all those problems?
> >
> >   Chris
> >
> >
> > Barry Stark  wrote:  Chris -
> > How long since you did a valve adjust?
> >
> > Barry
> >
> 
> 
> 
> ___

Re: [MBZ] I'm back

[barrystark]

Marshall -
You were truly missed!

Barry


 Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> Just took a walkabout!
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth Ph.D.
> Ass't Prof. (ret.)
> Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] nylon runner/guide

[barrystark]

I'm sure he does, but on parts that cost so little the money saved will be more 
than offset by the shipping costs. Now if you have to buy a new regulator.

Barry 

 wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> Doesn't Rusty have 'em?
> 
> Wilton
> 
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Re: [MBZ] W116 servo unit does not run after swopping

[barrystark]

Joopster -
I think that your system is enough like my '81 107 that I can say that if the 
blower fan comes on it is probably not due to a lack of system vacuum. If your 
old servo had a cracked case it may be that your servo amp is blown or just 
that your 2 Amp fuse for the system is open. If you start the car and run it 
for a few minutes and then shut it off can you hear the servo motor running as 
it goes to a parked position?

Barry
 UDG - Joop Schmeitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> Hi,
>  
> I just have swopped the servo unit for a rebuilt one (with alluminium frame)
>  
> Heater runs only on "defrost" at dash, nothing happens pressing the other
> switches.
>  
> Could this be just from a lack of vacuum?
>  
> I bought the car just shortly ago and by then no heat at all.
>  
> The A/C compressor is not connected.
>  
> Who can help?
>  
> Joopster
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Re: [MBZ] CR report on headlight bulbs

[barrystark]

So Curt, with all the jokes about  240Ds and getting bug splats on the rear 
window...is it possible for you to outdrive your headlights?

Barry (ducking)


 Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> Okay, I've been trying to hold back but, what is it about "improved" 
> lighting? I have absolutely no problem with the standard headlights in my 
> 240D and I pretty much can't imagine why I'd need more light. I almost never 
> use the highbeams now...
>   AND on many occasions other cars with their obnoxiously bright headlights 
> have me ducking down in my seat so my eyes don't get burned by their 
> headlights in the rearview or even sideview mirrors. Don't even get me 
> started on those dammed driving lights.
>
>   Do I just have better eyes than most people? The only car I've ever driven 
> that I thought had inadequate lighting was a '79 Saab that I'm pretty sure 
> had electrics problems.
>
>   -Curt

Re: [MBZ] 5.0 euro high idle, what controls it

[barrystark]

Kaleb -
I checked and you should go to 07.3-112.pdf. If you don't have it let me know 
and I'll send it to you.

Barry


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
> Kaleb -
> On my '81 380 it is controlled by an engine temperature sensor mounted in the 
> rear of the right cyl head, but on some of the later years it was controlled 
> by oil temperature and the sender was down by the oil filter. Do you have a 
> 126 or 107 CD manual. If so I can direct you to the correct section
> 
> 
> 
>  "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> > As you know the 380SE with the euro 5.0 idles at around 900-1k rpm all 
> > the time.  I just fired up a full fledged euro 82 500SE that is here for 
> > the first time in a few months and it idled at 900-1k, then after a few 
> > minutes it all the sudden clicked down to a normal idle of about 650 or 
> > so.  So it appears my car is stuck in cold high idle.  What controls 
> > this function?  Is their some sensor that adjusts the idle after it has 
> > reached a certain temp?  Maybe this sensor is bad on mine.  Or is their 
> > some vacuum control that adjusts the time after it has warmed up that 
> > causes it to idle down?

Re: [MBZ] 5.0 euro high idle, what controls it

[barrystark]

Kaleb -
On my '81 380 it is controlled by an engine temperature sensor mounted in the 
rear of the right cyl head, but on some of the later years it was controlled by 
oil temperature and the sender was down by the oil filter. Do you have a 126 or 
107 CD manual. If so I can direct you to the correct section



 "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> As you know the 380SE with the euro 5.0 idles at around 900-1k rpm all 
> the time.  I just fired up a full fledged euro 82 500SE that is here for 
> the first time in a few months and it idled at 900-1k, then after a few 
> minutes it all the sudden clicked down to a normal idle of about 650 or 
> so.  So it appears my car is stuck in cold high idle.  What controls 
> this function?  Is their some sensor that adjusts the idle after it has 
> reached a certain temp?  Maybe this sensor is bad on mine.  Or is their 
> some vacuum control that adjusts the time after it has warmed up that 
> causes it to idle down?

Re: [MBZ] OT: Genset

[barrystark]

Actually there is quite a bit of water vapor that comes out of the tailpipe in 
most any engine. The water that you see dripping out of your tailpipe each 
morning is not from condensation, it is water vapor, a by product of the 
combustion process. When the engine is warmed up, the water is still there, you 
just can't see it as it comes out as "steam". I once saw a stat on how much 
water comes out of an engine going down the road and it was pretty impressive, 
like gallons per mile as I recall. Another good indication of this phenomenem 
is the "contrails" or condensation trails left by jet aircraft. In this case 
the water ejected with the engine exhaust quickly cools at those high altitudes 
and looks like smoke, but it is really a trail of ice crystals.

Barry



 Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> On Fri, Jan 06, 2006 at 02:25:32PM -0800, Zeitgeist wrote:
> > Isn't an inherent byproduct of propane combustion lots of H2O?
> 
> Yes, moreso than conventional gasoline.
> 
> K
>

Re: [MBZ] Bad Wheel Bearings?

[barrystark]

 Ned -
Look here...

http://www.timken.com/products/bearings/services/valueadd/prevent.asp

Barry


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
> 
> 
> How do you know when the front wheel bearings need to be replaced?
> 
> Do they get noisy?
> Does it become impossible to adjust them within spec?
> Do they pit and fracture like a damaged bicycle bearing?
> Should you just replace them at some mileage interval?
> 
> An inquiring mind wants to know.
> 
> I?m on a campaign of cleaning and repacking those bearings in my 
> ?fleet? as I replace front brakes.  But maybe I should be replacing 
> some of these bearings.
> 
> When the dealer serviced my car, they would sometimes repack the front 
> bearings and sometimes they would replace them.  I can?t figure out how 
> they decided.
> 
> Ned Kleinhenz
> ?95 E300D x2
> ?85 300D
> ?80 300TD