Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints - BFH

2013-11-15 Thread Scott Ritchey



I bought a 4 lb hammer at Lowes today.  Later, I had a few spare minutes so
I securely clamped the inverted knuckle (ala spindle) in my big vice and
gave it a few whacks using a big socket as a drift.  I wasn't swinging very
hard but the ball joint started coming out after just a few whacks.  I had
sprayed some PB Blaster on it a couple days ago but I think the firm vice
grip and the bigger hammer did most of the magic.  It came out a lot easier
than I expected.



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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints - BFH

2013-11-15 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Good job!


On Fri, Nov 15, 2013 at 3:06 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:




 I bought a 4 lb hammer at Lowes today.  Later, I had a few spare minutes so
 I securely clamped the inverted knuckle (ala spindle) in my big vice and
 gave it a few whacks using a big socket as a drift.  I wasn't swinging very
 hard but the ball joint started coming out after just a few whacks.  I had
 sprayed some PB Blaster on it a couple days ago but I think the firm vice
 grip and the bigger hammer did most of the magic.  It came out a lot easier
 than I expected.



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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints - BFH

2013-11-15 Thread WILTON

'Nother ATTABOY!

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2013 3:06 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints - BFH






I bought a 4 lb hammer at Lowes today.  Later, I had a few spare minutes 
so

I securely clamped the inverted knuckle (ala spindle) in my big vice and
gave it a few whacks using a big socket as a drift.  I wasn't swinging 
very

hard but the ball joint started coming out after just a few whacks.  I had
sprayed some PB Blaster on it a couple days ago but I think the firm vice
grip and the bigger hammer did most of the magic.  It came out a lot 
easier

than I expected.



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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints - BFH

2013-11-15 Thread Rich Thomas

Ye of little faith!  Is this not what I said to do?  YES

--R (If in doubt, get a bigger hammer)

On 11/15/13 3:06 AM, Scott Ritchey wrote:



I bought a 4 lb hammer at Lowes today.  Later, I had a few spare minutes so
I securely clamped the inverted knuckle (ala spindle) in my big vice and
gave it a few whacks using a big socket as a drift.  I wasn't swinging very
hard but the ball joint started coming out after just a few whacks.  I had
sprayed some PB Blaster on it a couple days ago but I think the firm vice
grip and the bigger hammer did most of the magic.  It came out a lot easier
than I expected.



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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints - BFH

2013-11-15 Thread Jim Cathey

I bought a 4 lb hammer ... the bigger hammer did most of the magic.


Ah, the magic of the BFH.  Do not neglect the B part, it's important!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-14 Thread Richard Hattaway
I made a tool for the `123 chassis.  It might work on a 126.  it was cut from 
3/4 plate with one of those fancy wire machines, then welded together.

It's available to anybody who wants it.  It's heavy ( no chit ) and requres a 
bottle jack to complete the assembly.. but it's in Salisbury NC for those 
interested.  






On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 11:14 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com 
wrote:
 

I've seen photos of that Benz tool and it looks pretty slick.  There is a
Sir Tools clone (which is reported to work) for about $250+tax+$hipping and
better copies (allegedly) for hundred(s) more.  So I decided to get an SW
Shield instead.  If the $100 tool does the job, I'll be happy.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 5:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

Interesting.  The Benz tool is like a clamp sort of thing with a screw 
on to press down on the BJ (I think the fairing around the part that 
goes in the knuckle -- it fits over the stud) at the proper angle.

--R





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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-14 Thread Randy Bennell


How about some photos and maybe measurements?

Randy

On 14/11/2013 6:08 AM, Richard Hattaway wrote:

I made a tool for the `123 chassis.  It might work on a 126.  it was cut from 
3/4 plate with one of those fancy wire machines, then welded together.

It's available to anybody who wants it.  It's heavy ( no chit ) and requres a 
bottle jack to complete the assembly.. but it's in Salisbury NC for those 
interested.






On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 11:14 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com 
wrote:
  


I've seen photos of that Benz tool and it looks pretty slick.  There is a
Sir Tools clone (which is reported to work) for about $250+tax+$hipping and
better copies (allegedly) for hundred(s) more.  So I decided to get an SW
Shield instead.  If the $100 tool does the job, I'll be happy.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 5:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

Interesting.  The Benz tool is like a clamp sort of thing with a screw
on to press down on the BJ (I think the fairing around the part that
goes in the knuckle -- it fits over the stud) at the proper angle.

--R





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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-14 Thread Richard Hattaway
I'll see if I can dig them up.  It was basically a fork, round to fit round the 
boot, fingers of 3/4 material, long enough to begin to interfere with whatever 
is back there on the knuckle, and that fork plate was welded to a pair of 
vertical plates down to a base plate.  All very thick steel.  The distance was 
adequate to fit in my bottle jack so I could press the ball joint out.  

I also found that if you could put up with the smoke, a blue tipped wrench 
placed in the middle of the back of the cup and allowed to just sit there and 
make things molten usually resulted in a joint that could be popped out with a 
ball pien hammer.  Don't slip and get into the knuckle though.  They really 
really laugh at you down at the junk yard when you drag in with your tail 
between your legs and a knuckle with a big gash in it.  It melts fast. (c: 





On Thursday, November 14, 2013 12:24 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca 
wrote:
 

How about some photos and maybe measurements?

Randy

On 14/11/2013 6:08 AM, Richard Hattaway wrote:
 I made a tool for the `123 chassis.  It might work on a 126.  it was cut from 
 3/4 plate with one of those fancy wire machines, then welded together.

 It's available to anybody who wants it.  It's heavy ( no chit ) and requres a 
 bottle jack to complete the assembly.. but it's in Salisbury NC for those 
 interested.






 On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 11:14 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com 
 wrote:
  

 I've seen photos of that Benz tool and it looks pretty slick.  There is a
 Sir Tools clone (which is reported to work) for about $250+tax+$hipping and
 better copies (allegedly) for hundred(s) more.  So I decided to get an SW
 Shield instead.  If the $100 tool does the job, I'll be happy.

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
 Thomas
 Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 5:36 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

 Interesting.  The Benz tool is like a clamp sort of thing with a screw
 on to press down on the BJ (I think the fairing around the part that
 goes in the knuckle -- it fits over the stud) at the proper angle.

 --R





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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-13 Thread Larry T
we have a specialist here in the Richmond Va area that specializes in 
frame and alignment work.  They do great work and are realistically 
priced to boot..  Look for a similar speciality and they as usually very 
skilled at suspension work...


They did a ball joint on our 78 240D for $65 incl parts IIRC,..

LarryT
91 300D
On 11/10/2013 8:35 AM, Mitchell Haley, EA wrote:

On Sat, 9 Nov 2013 23:20:13 -0500 Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
wrote:
If you are not going to make a practice of installing ball joints, having
it done by a place that knows what they are doing makes sense.


...if you can find such a place.
I'm reminded of the time I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, and
control arm bushings on my Horizon. It was one of three times in a row I
farmed out a job to a 'specialist' because a factory service manual called
for a tool I didn't have, and the specialist buggered it up far worse than
I would have if I'd just done it myself. No car I own has seen a service
facility for anything except tires ever since.

In the case of the suspension job, I had stamped control arms which were
in the shape of a U channel where the bushings were pressed in. There was
a factory tool that you stuck in the U before pressing so it would still
be a U and not a V after the pressing.
Looking back on it, I could have made a spacer out of pipe to hold the U
open in less time than it took to drive the control arms to the suspension
shop, where they pressed the bushings without supporting the Us and
squished them, then said 'there's nothing wrong with that' when I
complained.


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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-13 Thread Scott Ritchey

At this point, I plan to do one side at a time and use the $99 tool from
eBay (and a press) to install the new ball joint.  The left side is all
disassembled (knuckle/spindle removed) and I'm waiting on new BJs form
Hursty.  There is a small nearby auto shop with a press and I plan to go
there with my tool and parts to press in the new joints; they were quite
reasonable when I had them straighten some tractor parts.  

This car (300SD) is seldom driven these days because my wife recently had a
hip replacement and she can get into and out of the Outback (seat much
higher off ground) than the SD (which has a pretty low seat).  So waiting
weeks to get it fixed is not a problem.  I could have fixed the original
problem (stuck brake caliper) the same day but I noticed the torn BJ boots
and decided to do them while I had the caliper off.  I like to do one side
at a time (especially when the job takes several days) so I have a sample to
help remember how to reassemble.  I'm old and forgetful. 

The weather here (NC) got suddenly very cold so I don't mind waiting while
it warms up again to finish the job.

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
 Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 12:03 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints
 
 we have a specialist here in the Richmond Va area that specializes in
 frame and alignment work.  They do great work and are realistically
 priced to boot..  Look for a similar speciality and they as usually very
 skilled at suspension work...
 
 They did a ball joint on our 78 240D for $65 incl parts IIRC,..
 
 LarryT
 91 300D
 On 11/10/2013 8:35 AM, Mitchell Haley, EA wrote:
  On Sat, 9 Nov 2013 23:20:13 -0500 Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
  wrote:
  If you are not going to make a practice of installing ball joints,
 having
  it done by a place that knows what they are doing makes sense.
 
  ...if you can find such a place.
  I'm reminded of the time I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, and
  control arm bushings on my Horizon. It was one of three times in a row I
  farmed out a job to a 'specialist' because a factory service manual
 called
  for a tool I didn't have, and the specialist buggered it up far worse
 than
  I would have if I'd just done it myself. No car I own has seen a service
  facility for anything except tires ever since.
 
  In the case of the suspension job, I had stamped control arms which were
  in the shape of a U channel where the bushings were pressed in. There
 was
  a factory tool that you stuck in the U before pressing so it would still
  be a U and not a V after the pressing.
  Looking back on it, I could have made a spacer out of pipe to hold the U
  open in less time than it took to drive the control arms to the
 suspension
  shop, where they pressed the bushings without supporting the Us and
  squished them, then said 'there's nothing wrong with that' when I
  complained.
 
 
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  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-13 Thread Rich Thomas
I don't know what tool you are getting, but all the wisdom I have 
gathered says that using the Benz BJ press is really about the only 
thing that will work well.


Where are you located?  There must be an indy Benz shop somewhere 
half-reasonable to get to that would have the press.  It costs like $600 
or something ridiculous, but has the proper angle and orientation or 
something.  Back when I had the TD BJs pressed in at an indy, the guy 
told me they had broken one using some crap BJs and that Lemforders were 
the only way to go.


--R


On 11/13/13 1:02 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:

At this point, I plan to do one side at a time and use the $99 tool from
eBay (and a press) to install the new ball joint.  The left side is all
disassembled (knuckle/spindle removed) and I'm waiting on new BJs form
Hursty.  There is a small nearby auto shop with a press and I plan to go
there with my tool and parts to press in the new joints; they were quite
reasonable when I had them straighten some tractor parts.

This car (300SD) is seldom driven these days because my wife recently had a
hip replacement and she can get into and out of the Outback (seat much
higher off ground) than the SD (which has a pretty low seat).  So waiting
weeks to get it fixed is not a problem.  I could have fixed the original
problem (stuck brake caliper) the same day but I noticed the torn BJ boots
and decided to do them while I had the caliper off.  I like to do one side
at a time (especially when the job takes several days) so I have a sample to
help remember how to reassemble.  I'm old and forgetful.

The weather here (NC) got suddenly very cold so I don't mind waiting while
it warms up again to finish the job.


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 12:03 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

we have a specialist here in the Richmond Va area that specializes in
frame and alignment work.  They do great work and are realistically
priced to boot..  Look for a similar speciality and they as usually very
skilled at suspension work...

They did a ball joint on our 78 240D for $65 incl parts IIRC,..

LarryT
91 300D
On 11/10/2013 8:35 AM, Mitchell Haley, EA wrote:

On Sat, 9 Nov 2013 23:20:13 -0500 Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
wrote:
If you are not going to make a practice of installing ball joints,

having

it done by a place that knows what they are doing makes sense.


...if you can find such a place.
I'm reminded of the time I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, and
control arm bushings on my Horizon. It was one of three times in a row I
farmed out a job to a 'specialist' because a factory service manual

called

for a tool I didn't have, and the specialist buggered it up far worse

than

I would have if I'd just done it myself. No car I own has seen a service
facility for anything except tires ever since.

In the case of the suspension job, I had stamped control arms which were
in the shape of a U channel where the bushings were pressed in. There

was

a factory tool that you stuck in the U before pressing so it would still
be a U and not a V after the pressing.
Looking back on it, I could have made a spacer out of pipe to hold the U
open in less time than it took to drive the control arms to the

suspension

shop, where they pressed the bushings without supporting the Us and
squished them, then said 'there's nothing wrong with that' when I
complained.


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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-13 Thread Scott Ritchey

This is the thing I ordered (still in transit):  http://tinyurl.com/p5mjfrj

According to some folks on peachparts it worked well.  Looking at the photo,
the small thing at the bottom is a drift for driving out the old ball joint.
I'm not sure about the cylinder at the right edge, maybe it's for some other
application or maybe it is a spacer for under the knuckle to insure the new
BJ doesn't bottom out against the press.  The big pipe-looking thing is the
main tool.  The bottom end pushes down against the top of the ball joint
(allegedly without damaging the boot) and the top end goes up to the press.
The tube is cut out for the long vertical curved part of the knuckle.  I
guess I'm just a tool geek. I'll report back the results here.

I'm located in (very) rural NC about 35 mi north of Raleigh between
Franklinton and Henderson.  The nearest post office is Kittrell.  I have
heard (from Wilton) that there is a good MBZ indy on the north side of
Raleigh and that's my backup plan.  Ball joints are cheap enough that I'm
willing to risk destroying one (or two).  Besides the car is up on jack
stands with the right front suspension dismantled so it isn't going anywhere
until I put it back together.



 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
 Thomas
 Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 1:41 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints
 
 I don't know what tool you are getting, but all the wisdom I have
 gathered says that using the Benz BJ press is really about the only
 thing that will work well.
 
 Where are you located?  There must be an indy Benz shop somewhere
 half-reasonable to get to that would have the press.  It costs like $600
 or something ridiculous, but has the proper angle and orientation or
 something.  Back when I had the TD BJs pressed in at an indy, the guy
 told me they had broken one using some crap BJs and that Lemforders were
 the only way to go.
 
 --R
 



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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-13 Thread Rich Thomas
Interesting.  The Benz tool is like a clamp sort of thing with a screw 
on to press down on the BJ (I think the fairing around the part that 
goes in the knuckle -- it fits over the stud) at the proper angle.


--R


On 11/13/13 5:27 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:

This is the thing I ordered (still in transit):  http://tinyurl.com/p5mjfrj

According to some folks on peachparts it worked well.  Looking at the photo,
the small thing at the bottom is a drift for driving out the old ball joint.
I'm not sure about the cylinder at the right edge, maybe it's for some other
application or maybe it is a spacer for under the knuckle to insure the new
BJ doesn't bottom out against the press.  The big pipe-looking thing is the
main tool.  The bottom end pushes down against the top of the ball joint
(allegedly without damaging the boot) and the top end goes up to the press.
The tube is cut out for the long vertical curved part of the knuckle.  I
guess I'm just a tool geek. I'll report back the results here.

I'm located in (very) rural NC about 35 mi north of Raleigh between
Franklinton and Henderson.  The nearest post office is Kittrell.  I have
heard (from Wilton) that there is a good MBZ indy on the north side of
Raleigh and that's my backup plan.  Ball joints are cheap enough that I'm
willing to risk destroying one (or two).  Besides the car is up on jack
stands with the right front suspension dismantled so it isn't going anywhere
until I put it back together.




-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 1:41 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

I don't know what tool you are getting, but all the wisdom I have
gathered says that using the Benz BJ press is really about the only
thing that will work well.

Where are you located?  There must be an indy Benz shop somewhere
half-reasonable to get to that would have the press.  It costs like $600
or something ridiculous, but has the proper angle and orientation or
something.  Back when I had the TD BJs pressed in at an indy, the guy
told me they had broken one using some crap BJs and that Lemforders were
the only way to go.

--R




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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-13 Thread Scott Ritchey

I've seen photos of that Benz tool and it looks pretty slick.  There is a
Sir Tools clone (which is reported to work) for about $250+tax+$hipping and
better copies (allegedly) for hundred(s) more.  So I decided to get an SW
Shield instead.  If the $100 tool does the job, I'll be happy.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 5:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

Interesting.  The Benz tool is like a clamp sort of thing with a screw 
on to press down on the BJ (I think the fairing around the part that 
goes in the knuckle -- it fits over the stud) at the proper angle.

--R





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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-10 Thread Larry T
Some FLAPS will loan tools like the BJ press - often for free if you buy 
at least some parts from them.they usually get a deposit equal to 
the cost of the tool in case you want to keep it ;-)


around here, Advance Auto and AutoZone both loan tools..

As other mentioned, getting the BJ out with a BFH will work if you find 
a way to hold it when you whack it.  OTOH, putting the new one in 
requires a little more finis and less BFH as you probably don't want to 
damage the BJ when installing it   You should also have the front end 
alignment checked afterward so you might be able to get a local shop to 
press the BJ in for you if you tell him you want him to do the FE 
alignment when you get it back together.


Good luck - Gee, i wish I had ony mechanical problems and never 
electrical ones - the mechanical stuff seems so straight forward...


LarryT
91 300D
78 240D


On 11/9/2013 6:04 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
A big vise and a 6 lb hammer should get them out just fine, but 
getting a new on in is a huge pain.


I bought a cheap ball joint press and it failed on the first attempt.  
I bought a $200 one, and it works well enough that my brother does the 
job for our local retired independent MB guy.


If you can find someone local that actually does them, it's worth the 
cost to get them right -- any deviation from straight into that offset 
hole results in a ruined (or stuck crooked) joint.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-10 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Scott, as others have said, put the knuckle in a vice and use a big sledge
hammer.  An experienced MB tech showed me the technique.  The first hits
should be directly on the bottom of the ball joint.  It sticks out from the
bottom of the knuckle just enough that you can get some movement out of it.
 Once it moves a bit, then you need something in between your hammer and
the joint.  Its best to use something on the softer side, since something
that is too hard and brittle may shatter or crack on impact between the
hard hammer and joint.

Don't be afraid of marking up the knuckle in the vice... a little bit isn't
going to hurt it.

As for installing, I have the correct press.  I think its the sit tools
model, but I can check if you need to be sure.  But it looks exactly like
the sir tools press.  You mount it in a vice.  It works very well, I've
done several cars with it.  I recommend it.

Good luck,
Jaime



On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 11:20 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 Thanks guys for the input.  Removing the tapered studs went OK.  I have the
 tools to press them without damaging the studs or nuts.

 The ball joint is pressed into the knuckle and that's where I'm stuck.  I
 have a big vice that has rough jaws that will chew up the knuckle so I was
 hesitant to really bite into the knuckle with the vice.  But I guess that's
 what's required.

 The local shop probably has little MBZ experience.  I'll make some calls
 next week but the closest real MBZ place is probably Raleigh (a place
 Wilton
 recommended).  I'm thinking about just buying the tool.

 Does anyone have a 123/126 press for sale or rent?

 Does anyone know if this tool is any good:

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-W213-W126-W220-Ball-Joint-Installer-To
 ol-/151162610357?pt=Motors_Automotive_Toolshash=item2331fe62b5vxp=mtr


 Does anyone know if the Sir Tools press is any good:

 http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.asp?itemid=172748gclid=CJ-qvICq2boCFWh
 o7AodwkEATA

 No rush on this job so I'm interested in any help.  Thanks.  Scott


 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter
 Frederick
 Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:05 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

 A big vise and a 6 lb hammer should get them out just fine, but
 getting a new on in is a huge pain.

 I bought a cheap ball joint press and it failed on the first attempt.
 I bought a $200 one, and it works well enough that my brother does the
 job for our local retired independent MB guy.

 If you can find someone local that actually does them, it's worth the
 cost to get them right -- any deviation from straight into that offset
 hole results in a ruined (or stuck crooked) joint.

 Peter

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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-10 Thread Mitchell Haley, EA
 On Sat, 9 Nov 2013 23:20:13 -0500 Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
 wrote:
 If you are not going to make a practice of installing ball joints, having
 it done by a place that knows what they are doing makes sense.


...if you can find such a place.
I'm reminded of the time I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, and
control arm bushings on my Horizon. It was one of three times in a row I
farmed out a job to a 'specialist' because a factory service manual called
for a tool I didn't have, and the specialist buggered it up far worse than
I would have if I'd just done it myself. No car I own has seen a service
facility for anything except tires ever since.

In the case of the suspension job, I had stamped control arms which were
in the shape of a U channel where the bushings were pressed in. There was
a factory tool that you stuck in the U before pressing so it would still
be a U and not a V after the pressing.
Looking back on it, I could have made a spacer out of pipe to hold the U
open in less time than it took to drive the control arms to the suspension
shop, where they pressed the bushings without supporting the Us and
squished them, then said 'there's nothing wrong with that' when I
complained.


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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-10 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel

At 5:32 PM -0500 11/9/13, Scott Ritchey wrote:


I tried some modest pounding with a 3 lb hammer to remove the old ball joint
but so far it appears not to have moved. The main problem (I think) is
holding the knuckle still while I try to drive the old BJ out.  Does anyone
have any advice here?


Pickle fork is whatcha use to pop out ball joints.

-MMM-

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-10 Thread Peter Frederick
Pickle fork won't do a thing for this application -- he's not trying  
to get the control arm off, he's trying to get the ball joint itself  
out of the steering knuckle.  On the W126/W123, the ball joint is  
pressed into the knuckle, not the control arm.  The control arm goes  
inside the knuckle to attach rather than being underneath.


This was due to the desire to have zero/negative offset steering with  
two control arms.  All later suspensions use modified McPhearson struts.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-10 Thread Gerry Archer
Okay, if Scott has a very heavy duty vice, a breakover handle, a cheater 
pipe that fits the breakover handle, and a local Autozone, he can try the 
cheapest way to remove it.  Autozone loans the tool free.  You pay new price 
and they refund when you bring it back.


Don't know if 126s are similar to 123s, but I found that Autozones biggest
ball joint remover would fit over the king pin balljoint(s?) in my 123.  I
chucked it in a big, heavy duty vice and used a piece of pipe over a
breakover handle for more leverage.  It took a good bit of strength , but
suddenly there was a loud pop and it was out.
Don't remember how new one was installed, but I didn't take it to a shop.
Been about 100K miles with the car and everything is still tight.  That was
ten years ago, so description may not be exact.
Gerry
P.S.  I let it soak in Rust Eater (Autozone), WD-40, Blaster, and 3 or 4 
other
potions over night before removing it, but I don't think that had much 
effect.


P.S. #2  Might pay to call A-zone first to be sure they still loan tools.
.

From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net

You want to have a Benz shop press in the new ones.  Getting the old ones
out involves a BFH and the knuckle on a vise or something that can take
the pounding.  A little PB might help, and the hot wrench, but mostly just
the BFH.
--R


On 11/9/13 5:32 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:

What started out as a brake job has grown to include replacing the lower
ball joints as well (torn boots).  I'm doing one side at a time and I've
removed the knuckle from the left side so far.


I tried some modest pounding with a 3 lb hammer to remove the old ball
joint
but so far it appears not to have moved. The main problem (I think) is
holding the knuckle still while I try to drive the old BJ out.  Does
anyone
have any advice here?


My backup plan is to take the knuckle and the new ball joint to a local
shop
that has a press and see if they can do the job.  I welcome the voice of
experience from anyone who has done this job (or seen it done).


Thanks, Scott

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-10 Thread Craig
On Sun, 10 Nov 2013 00:09:48 -0700 G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com wrote:

 This might be helpful.
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PjkfDp8mLE
 
 Note the downward force bar PLUS the BFH application

This might also be helpful, since it's on a W126 Mercedes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6To8ymriN8

Craig


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[MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Scott Ritchey
What started out as a brake job has grown to include replacing the lower
ball joints as well (torn boots).  I'm doing one side at a time and I've
removed the knuckle from the left side so far.  

 

I tried some modest pounding with a 3 lb hammer to remove the old ball joint
but so far it appears not to have moved. The main problem (I think) is
holding the knuckle still while I try to drive the old BJ out.  Does anyone
have any advice here?

 

My backup plan is to take the knuckle and the new ball joint to a local shop
that has a press and see if they can do the job.  I welcome the voice of
experience from anyone who has done this job (or seen it done).

 

Thanks, Scott

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Rich Thomas
You want to have a Benz shop press in the new ones.  Getting the old 
ones out involves a BFH and the knuckle on a vise or something that can 
take the pounding.  A little PB might help, and the hot wrench, but 
mostly just the BFH.


--R


On 11/9/13 5:32 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:

What started out as a brake job has grown to include replacing the lower
ball joints as well (torn boots).  I'm doing one side at a time and I've
removed the knuckle from the left side so far.

  


I tried some modest pounding with a 3 lb hammer to remove the old ball joint
but so far it appears not to have moved. The main problem (I think) is
holding the knuckle still while I try to drive the old BJ out.  Does anyone
have any advice here?

  


My backup plan is to take the knuckle and the new ball joint to a local shop
that has a press and see if they can do the job.  I welcome the voice of
experience from anyone who has done this job (or seen it done).

  


Thanks, Scott

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Peter Frederick
A big vise and a 6 lb hammer should get them out just fine, but  
getting a new on in is a huge pain.


I bought a cheap ball joint press and it failed on the first attempt.   
I bought a $200 one, and it works well enough that my brother does the  
job for our local retired independent MB guy.


If you can find someone local that actually does them, it's worth the  
cost to get them right -- any deviation from straight into that offset  
hole results in a ruined (or stuck crooked) joint.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Jim Cathey
I tried some modest pounding with a 3 lb hammer to remove the old ball 
joint

but so far it appears not to have moved. The main problem (I think) is
holding the knuckle still while I try to drive the old BJ out.  Does 
anyone

have any advice here?


If these have tapered posts, the thing that seems to really work
best is to hammer against the side of the socket with the BFH,
while backing the other side with an anvil or another BFH.  Applying
force 90 degrees from the desired direction of motion of the shaft.
YMMV.  Not sure how this works on a 126, if at all, 'cause I've
never done one.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Peter Frederick
The ball joints go in from the top on the steering knuckle on a W126  
(or a W123, same design).  Takes a substantial hammer to drive them  
out, and a very narrow and short nosed press tool to push the new ones  
in.  Low quality ball joint press tools will fail it you try to use  
them, and it is usually necessary to grind away part of the top end  
of the press --screw type -- to get it to seat on the joint to get a  
new one in.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Scott Ritchey

Thanks guys for the input.  Removing the tapered studs went OK.  I have the
tools to press them without damaging the studs or nuts.

The ball joint is pressed into the knuckle and that's where I'm stuck.  I
have a big vice that has rough jaws that will chew up the knuckle so I was
hesitant to really bite into the knuckle with the vice.  But I guess that's
what's required.

The local shop probably has little MBZ experience.  I'll make some calls
next week but the closest real MBZ place is probably Raleigh (a place Wilton
recommended).  I'm thinking about just buying the tool.

Does anyone have a 123/126 press for sale or rent?

Does anyone know if this tool is any good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-W213-W126-W220-Ball-Joint-Installer-To
ol-/151162610357?pt=Motors_Automotive_Toolshash=item2331fe62b5vxp=mtr


Does anyone know if the Sir Tools press is any good:
http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.asp?itemid=172748gclid=CJ-qvICq2boCFWh
o7AodwkEATA

No rush on this job so I'm interested in any help.  Thanks.  Scott


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Frederick
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

A big vise and a 6 lb hammer should get them out just fine, but  
getting a new on in is a huge pain.

I bought a cheap ball joint press and it failed on the first attempt.   
I bought a $200 one, and it works well enough that my brother does the  
job for our local retired independent MB guy.

If you can find someone local that actually does them, it's worth the  
cost to get them right -- any deviation from straight into that offset  
hole results in a ruined (or stuck crooked) joint.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Craig
On Sat, 9 Nov 2013 23:20:13 -0500 Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
wrote:

 The ball joint is pressed into the knuckle and that's where I'm stuck.
 I have a big vice that has rough jaws that will chew up the knuckle so
 I was hesitant to really bite into the knuckle with the vice.  But I
 guess that's what's required.

For removal, chewing up the old one should be no problem. You don't want
to do that with the new one.


 The local shop probably has little MBZ experience.  I'll make some calls
 next week but the closest real MBZ place is probably Raleigh (a place
 Wilton recommended).  I'm thinking about just buying the tool.

If you are not going to make a practice of installing ball joints, having
it done by a place that knows what they are doing makes sense.


 Does anyone have a 123/126 press for sale or rent?

No, sorry.


 Does anyone know if this tool is any good:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-W213-W126-W220-Ball-Joint-Installer-To
 ol-/151162610357?pt=Motors_Automotive_Toolshash=item2331fe62b5vxp=mtr

No, sorry.


 Does anyone know if the Sir Tools press is any good:
 http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.asp?itemid=172748gclid=CJ-qvICq2boCFWh
 o7AodwkEATA

Now this one I can comment about. Sir Tools may have a nice idea, but
their execution is horrible. I bought one of their injector delivery valve
tools (the ones with all the splines) and had to modify both the tool and
the delivery valve holder to get it to work. In addition, the fit and
finish of their tools is junk. I bought a Hazet tool from someone on the
list (Loren?) and just used it to change the delivery valve seals on our
'82 240D/3.0 with an M pump. Using it was a pleasure.

Stay away from Sir Tools!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Scott Ritchey

Thanks for the input on Sir Tools.  I don't mind paying a couple hundred
bucks for the tool but I don't want to buy one that won't work.

About the vice, the knuckle (the thing with the axle that goes back into the
car) is the part that needs to go in the vice jaws.  I don't suppose teeth
marks will hurt it but it just seems tacky.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Craig
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 11:40 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

On Sat, 9 Nov 2013 23:20:13 -0500 Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
wrote:

 The ball joint is pressed into the knuckle and that's where I'm stuck.
 I have a big vice that has rough jaws that will chew up the knuckle so
 I was hesitant to really bite into the knuckle with the vice.  But I
 guess that's what's required.

For removal, chewing up the old one should be no problem. You don't want
to do that with the new one.


 The local shop probably has little MBZ experience.  I'll make some calls
 next week but the closest real MBZ place is probably Raleigh (a place
 Wilton recommended).  I'm thinking about just buying the tool.

If you are not going to make a practice of installing ball joints, having
it done by a place that knows what they are doing makes sense.


 Does anyone have a 123/126 press for sale or rent?

No, sorry.


 Does anyone know if this tool is any good:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-W213-W126-W220-Ball-Joint-Installer-To
 ol-/151162610357?pt=Motors_Automotive_Toolshash=item2331fe62b5vxp=mtr

No, sorry.


 Does anyone know if the Sir Tools press is any good:

http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.asp?itemid=172748gclid=CJ-qvICq2boCFWh
 o7AodwkEATA

Now this one I can comment about. Sir Tools may have a nice idea, but
their execution is horrible. I bought one of their injector delivery valve
tools (the ones with all the splines) and had to modify both the tool and
the delivery valve holder to get it to work. In addition, the fit and
finish of their tools is junk. I bought a Hazet tool from someone on the
list (Loren?) and just used it to change the delivery valve seals on our
'82 240D/3.0 with an M pump. Using it was a pleasure.

Stay away from Sir Tools!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Brian Toscano
Others have said it already, but a BIG hammer can make a big difference.  5
lb is probably the minimum for suspension work because anything less will
just about bounce off. ;^)

On Saturday, November 9, 2013, Scott Ritchey wrote:


 Thanks for the input on Sir Tools.  I don't mind paying a couple hundred
 bucks for the tool but I don't want to buy one that won't work.

 About the vice, the knuckle (the thing with the axle that goes back into
 the
 car) is the part that needs to go in the vice jaws.  I don't suppose teeth
 marks will hurt it but it just seems tacky.

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com javascript:;] On
 Behalf Of Craig
 Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 11:40 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

 On Sat, 9 Nov 2013 23:20:13 -0500 Scott Ritchey 
 ritche...@nc.rr.comjavascript:;
 
 wrote:

  The ball joint is pressed into the knuckle and that's where I'm stuck.
  I have a big vice that has rough jaws that will chew up the knuckle so
  I was hesitant to really bite into the knuckle with the vice.  But I
  guess that's what's required.

 For removal, chewing up the old one should be no problem. You don't want
 to do that with the new one.


  The local shop probably has little MBZ experience.  I'll make some calls
  next week but the closest real MBZ place is probably Raleigh (a place
  Wilton recommended).  I'm thinking about just buying the tool.

 If you are not going to make a practice of installing ball joints, having
 it done by a place that knows what they are doing makes sense.


  Does anyone have a 123/126 press for sale or rent?

 No, sorry.


  Does anyone know if this tool is any good:
 

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-W213-W126-W220-Ball-Joint-Installer-To
  ol-/151162610357?pt=Motors_Automotive_Toolshash=item2331fe62b5vxp=mtr

 No, sorry.


  Does anyone know if the Sir Tools press is any good:
 

 http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.asp?itemid=172748gclid=CJ-qvICq2boCFWh
  o7AodwkEATA

 Now this one I can comment about. Sir Tools may have a nice idea, but
 their execution is horrible. I bought one of their injector delivery valve
 tools (the ones with all the splines) and had to modify both the tool and
 the delivery valve holder to get it to work. In addition, the fit and
 finish of their tools is junk. I bought a Hazet tool from someone on the
 list (Loren?) and just used it to change the delivery valve seals on our
 '82 240D/3.0 with an M pump. Using it was a pleasure.

 Stay away from Sir Tools!


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Scott Ritchey

I guess it's the old adage:  Don't force it, get a bigger hammer.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Toscano
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 12:40 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

Others have said it already, but a BIG hammer can make a big difference.  5
lb is probably the minimum for suspension work because anything less will
just about bounce off. ;^)

On Saturday, November 9, 2013, Scott Ritchey wrote:




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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread Gary Hurst
SSF sells hazet stuff, but they don't seem to show a ball joint press


On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 12:48 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 I guess it's the old adage:  Don't force it, get a bigger hammer.

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Brian
 Toscano
 Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 12:40 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

 Others have said it already, but a BIG hammer can make a big difference.  5
 lb is probably the minimum for suspension work because anything less will
 just about bounce off. ;^)

 On Saturday, November 9, 2013, Scott Ritchey wrote:




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Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints

2013-11-09 Thread G Mann
This might be helpful.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PjkfDp8mLE

Note the downward force bar PLUS the BFH application


On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 11:36 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

 SSF sells hazet stuff, but they don't seem to show a ball joint press


 On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 12:48 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
 wrote:

 
  I guess it's the old adage:  Don't force it, get a bigger hammer.
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Brian
  Toscano
  Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 12:40 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Lower Ball Joints
 
  Others have said it already, but a BIG hammer can make a big difference.
  5
  lb is probably the minimum for suspension work because anything less will
  just about bounce off. ;^)
 
  On Saturday, November 9, 2013, Scott Ritchey wrote:
 
 
 
 
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

2010-04-13 Thread John Reames
Yeah, from what I remember, you cannot get a straight shot at the  
lower BJ with the rotor in place...
Don't forget to check the BJ/bushing that lives in the big aluminum  
brackets at the back of the wheelhouses...
Mine were good and tight... Split boots and rusted solid.  Those are a  
PITA to get out... Hydraulic press may be required.


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 12, 2010, at 23:07, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

Now I get to figure out what I need to change the lower ball joints  
on the SDL next.I printed out the jobs from the CD.


Anyone got any pointers about the 126 Job?  Do you have to take the  
hub off the spindle as the cd shows?


Fortunately, this is a southern rust-free car too, so there should  
not be much rust to have to break loose.  I won't get to it for 2-3  
weeks so there is no rush.  I will have the HF ball joint tool, a  
floor jack and a pair of jackstands, rattle wrench and the usual  
assortment of hand tools.


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Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

2010-04-13 Thread Peter Frederick
Doesn't matter if the rotor is on or not, since the ball joint is on the other 
side.  Makes it easier to handle the spindle with it off, though.  Ditto for 
calipers...

If you buy the Harbor Freight tool, grind the end opposite the screw to fit 
into the spindle above the joint, and weld some heavy stiffening plates to it, 
it works after to take the dust boot off the ball joint.  The C is much too 
soft, and bends if not stiffened.

Peter


-Original Message-
From: John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
Sent: Apr 13, 2010 5:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: mercedes@okiebenz.com mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

Yeah, from what I remember, you cannot get a straight shot at the  
lower BJ with the rotor in place...
Don't forget to check the BJ/bushing that lives in the big aluminum  
brackets at the back of the wheelhouses...
Mine were good and tight... Split boots and rusted solid.  Those are a  
PITA to get out... Hydraulic press may be required.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 12, 2010, at 23:07, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Now I get to figure out what I need to change the lower ball joints  
 on the SDL next.I printed out the jobs from the CD.

 Anyone got any pointers about the 126 Job?  Do you have to take the  
 hub off the spindle as the cd shows?

 Fortunately, this is a southern rust-free car too, so there should  
 not be much rust to have to break loose.  I won't get to it for 2-3  
 weeks so there is no rush.  I will have the HF ball joint tool, a  
 floor jack and a pair of jackstands, rattle wrench and the usual  
 assortment of hand tools.

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

2010-04-13 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 00:33:08 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 
 Anyone know of where I could rent this proper MB tool?

Rusty?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

2010-04-13 Thread Jim Cathey

The [HF] C is much too soft, and bends if not stiffened.


I bent mine while using it.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

2010-04-13 Thread Dieselhead

Peter,

Do you have any pictures of the modified press?  That would help to 
be able to duplicate it.  I know the HF press is bendable, cause the 
bent o'reilley rental was the same thing.  I put moderate pressure on 
it and then whacked the base with a hammer to seat the new joint. 
That way It didn't get sprung.


I may be able to remove the spindles and then take them to a guy that 
has the tool.  My HF press was only $32, because I used the 20% off 
one item coupon that someone was kind enough to send to the list. 
SO. If I grind and weld on it, I could get another for general use, 
if need be.



Doesn't matter if the rotor is on or not, since the ball joint is on 
the other side.  Makes it easier to handle the spindle with it off, 
though.  Ditto for calipers...


If you buy the Harbor Freight tool, grind the end opposite the screw 
to fit into the spindle above the joint, and weld some heavy 
stiffening plates to it, it works after to take the dust boot off 
the ball joint.  The C is much too soft, and bends if not 
stiffened.


Peter


-Original Message-

From: John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
Sent: Apr 13, 2010 5:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: mercedes@okiebenz.com mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

Yeah, from what I remember, you cannot get a straight shot at the 
lower BJ with the rotor in place...
Don't forget to check the BJ/bushing that lives in the big aluminum 
brackets at the back of the wheelhouses...
Mine were good and tight... Split boots and rusted solid.  Those are a 
PITA to get out... Hydraulic press may be required.


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 12, 2010, at 23:07, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Now I get to figure out what I need to change the lower ball joints 
 on the SDL next.I printed out the jobs from the CD.


 Anyone got any pointers about the 126 Job?  Do you have to take the 
 hub off the spindle as the cd shows?


 Fortunately, this is a southern rust-free car too, so there should 
 not be much rust to have to break loose.  I won't get to it for 2-3 
 weeks so there is no rush.  I will have the HF ball joint tool, a 
 floor jack and a pair of jackstands, rattle wrench and the usual 
 assortment of hand tools.


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

2010-04-13 Thread Peter Frederick
I'll get some in a day or two -- gonna be nuts here for the next couple days.

Peter


-Original Message-
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
Sent: Apr 13, 2010 9:38 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

Peter,

Do you have any pictures of the modified press?  That would help to 
be able to duplicate it.  I know the HF press is bendable, cause the 
bent o'reilley rental was the same thing.  I put moderate pressure on 
it and then whacked the base with a hammer to seat the new joint. 
That way It didn't get sprung.

I may be able to remove the spindles and then take them to a guy that 
has the tool.  My HF press was only $32, because I used the 20% off 
one item coupon that someone was kind enough to send to the list. 
SO. If I grind and weld on it, I could get another for general use, 
if need be.


Doesn't matter if the rotor is on or not, since the ball joint is on 
the other side.  Makes it easier to handle the spindle with it off, 
though.  Ditto for calipers...

If you buy the Harbor Freight tool, grind the end opposite the screw 
to fit into the spindle above the joint, and weld some heavy 
stiffening plates to it, it works after to take the dust boot off 
the ball joint.  The C is much too soft, and bends if not 
stiffened.

Peter


-Original Message-
From: John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
Sent: Apr 13, 2010 5:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: mercedes@okiebenz.com mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

Yeah, from what I remember, you cannot get a straight shot at the 
lower BJ with the rotor in place...
Don't forget to check the BJ/bushing that lives in the big aluminum 
brackets at the back of the wheelhouses...
Mine were good and tight... Split boots and rusted solid.  Those are a 
PITA to get out... Hydraulic press may be required.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 12, 2010, at 23:07, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

  Now I get to figure out what I need to change the lower ball joints 
  on the SDL next.I printed out the jobs from the CD.

  Anyone got any pointers about the 126 Job?  Do you have to take the 
  hub off the spindle as the cd shows?

  Fortunately, this is a southern rust-free car too, so there should 
  not be much rust to have to break loose.  I won't get to it for 2-3 
  weeks so there is no rush.  I will have the HF ball joint tool, a 
  floor jack and a pair of jackstands, rattle wrench and the usual 
  assortment of hand tools.

  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

2010-04-13 Thread Dieselhead

that is fine.  No rush.  I won't be starting for 2-3 weeks.






I'll get some in a day or two -- gonna be nuts here for the next couple days.

Peter


-Original Message-

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
Sent: Apr 13, 2010 9:38 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

Peter,

Do you have any pictures of the modified press?  That would help to
be able to duplicate it.  I know the HF press is bendable, cause the
bent o'reilley rental was the same thing.  I put moderate pressure on
it and then whacked the base with a hammer to seat the new joint.
That way It didn't get sprung.

I may be able to remove the spindles and then take them to a guy that
has the tool.  My HF press was only $32, because I used the 20% off
one item coupon that someone was kind enough to send to the list.
SO. If I grind and weld on it, I could get another for general use,
if need be.



Doesn't matter if the rotor is on or not, since the ball joint is on
the other side.  Makes it easier to handle the spindle with it off,
though.  Ditto for calipers...

If you buy the Harbor Freight tool, grind the end opposite the screw
to fit into the spindle above the joint, and weld some heavy
stiffening plates to it, it works after to take the dust boot off
the ball joint.  The C is much too soft, and bends if not
stiffened.

Peter


-Original Message-

From: John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
Sent: Apr 13, 2010 5:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: mercedes@okiebenz.com mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

Yeah, from what I remember, you cannot get a straight shot at the
lower BJ with the rotor in place...
Don't forget to check the BJ/bushing that lives in the big aluminum
brackets at the back of the wheelhouses...
Mine were good and tight... Split boots and rusted solid.  Those are a
PITA to get out... Hydraulic press may be required.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 12, 2010, at 23:07, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


  Now I get to figure out what I need to change the lower ball joints
  on the SDL next.I printed out the jobs from the CD.

  Anyone got any pointers about the 126 Job?  Do you have to take the
  hub off the spindle as the cd shows?

  Fortunately, this is a southern rust-free car too, so there should
  not be much rust to have to break loose.  I won't get to it for 2-3
  weeks so there is no rush.  I will have the HF ball joint tool, a
  floor jack and a pair of jackstands, rattle wrench and the usual
  assortment of hand tools.

  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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[MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

2010-04-12 Thread Dieselhead
Now I get to figure out what I need to change the lower ball joints 
on the SDL next.I printed out the jobs from the CD.


Anyone got any pointers about the 126 Job?  Do you have to take the 
hub off the spindle as the cd shows?


Fortunately, this is a southern rust-free car too, so there should 
not be much rust to have to break loose.  I won't get to it for 2-3 
weeks so there is no rush.  I will have the HF ball joint tool, a 
floor jack and a pair of jackstands, rattle wrench and the usual 
assortment of hand tools.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

2010-04-12 Thread Peter Frederick
My brother and I just did this job for a friend this winter.  Here's how it 
goes:

First and foremost, you CANNOT use a simple ball joint press for this job.  It 
MUST reach into the control arm to press straight down on the new joint.  We 
modified the Harbor Freight tool by grinding off quite a bit of the upper end 
and welding some heavy plates on it to take the pressure (it bent).  You will 
have to rent the correct MB tool or make/modify one to work.  You cannot use a 
press for the same reason.

Once you have a tool to re-install the new joints, take the spindle off, hold 
it in a vice, and use large drift (1 or so) and a sledge to drive the old ones 
out.  Only takes a couple firm blows, and no other method will work (see above 
description).

Press the new ones in and you are done.  We had to remove the dust boot to use 
the modified harbor freight tool, I really don't like to.  We may make a custom 
tool ourselves since we have access to the shop where my brother works if we 
need to do another set.

If you cannot locate a tool, pay someone who does these properly to do the job, 
having a ball joint stuck most of the way in and cocked is asking for trouble.

Peter


-Original Message-
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
Sent: Apr 12, 2010 11:07 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

Now I get to figure out what I need to change the lower ball joints 
on the SDL next.I printed out the jobs from the CD.

Anyone got any pointers about the 126 Job?  Do you have to take the 
hub off the spindle as the cd shows?

Fortunately, this is a southern rust-free car too, so there should 
not be much rust to have to break loose.  I won't get to it for 2-3 
weeks so there is no rush.  I will have the HF ball joint tool, a 
floor jack and a pair of jackstands, rattle wrench and the usual 
assortment of hand tools.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

2010-04-12 Thread Dieselhead


Anyone know of where I could rent this proper MB tool?

My brother and I just did this job for a friend this winter.  Here's 
how it goes:


First and foremost, you CANNOT use a simple ball joint press for 
this job.  It MUST reach into the control arm to press straight down 
on the new joint.  We modified the Harbor Freight tool by grinding 
off quite a bit of the upper end and welding some heavy plates on it 
to take the pressure (it bent).  You will have to rent the correct 
MB tool or make/modify one to work.  You cannot use a press for the 
same reason.


Once you have a tool to re-install the new joints, take the spindle 
off, hold it in a vice, and use large drift (1 or so) and a sledge 
to drive the old ones out.  Only takes a couple firm blows, and no 
other method will work (see above description).


Press the new ones in and you are done.  We had to remove the dust 
boot to use the modified harbor freight tool, I really don't like 
to.  We may make a custom tool ourselves since we have access to the 
shop where my brother works if we need to do another set.


If you cannot locate a tool, pay someone who does these properly to 
do the job, having a ball joint stuck most of the way in and 
cocked is asking for trouble.


Peter


-Original Message-

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
Sent: Apr 12, 2010 11:07 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 126 lower ball joints

Now I get to figure out what I need to change the lower ball joints
on the SDL next.I printed out the jobs from the CD.

Anyone got any pointers about the 126 Job?  Do you have to take the
hub off the spindle as the cd shows?

Fortunately, this is a southern rust-free car too, so there should
not be much rust to have to break loose.  I won't get to it for 2-3
weeks so there is no rush.  I will have the HF ball joint tool, a
floor jack and a pair of jackstands, rattle wrench and the usual

 assortment of hand tools.
 


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