Sun, 5 Apr 2015 19:38:58 -0400
From: "WILTON"
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350 SDL Tranny problems
Message-ID: <4EF2A3CB3664472BE75576768027@wiltonPC>
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> From: "WILTON"
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350 SDL Tranny problems
> Message-ID: <4EF2A3CB3664472BE75576768027@wiltonPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252";
> reply-type=origi
Give up the FL SDL or the rebuilt engine and tranny?
Wilton
- Original Message -
From:
To:
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2015 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350 SDL Tranny problems
On Apr 5, 2015, at 5:43 PM,"WILTON" wrote:
ATTABOY with the SDL, Angelo; 'hope all of &#x
On Apr 5, 2015, at 5:43 PM,"WILTON" wrote:
> ATTABOY with the SDL, Angelo; 'hope all of 'em continue to do well for you.
>
> BTW, you know, don't you, I shoulda bought your FL friend's 350 SDL.
> I procrastinated coupla days too long.
>
> Wilton
>
> - Original Message -
> From:
> To
Funny how? Like a clown?
--R
On 4/5/15 4:35 PM, michaelangel...@gmail.com wrote:
Trans in my 350SDL with 289K started acting funny this winter……
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Hi all,
Trans in my 350SDL with 289K started acting funny this winter……
If it’s cold out, < 20F, If i drive off without a 5-10 minute warmup, the
trans goes back and forth on the 3-4 shift. If I drop it down into 3 for a
mile or two and then put it back into D, it’s shifts OK. Also, If have
I actually had a good experience with insco last winter when blizzard
dropped tree on my 82 300CD. They said they would pay up to 75% of book and
they booked it at 13400 much to my shock. I paid body shop for new front
fenders and to paint the rest of the car so now I hav a full body
restoration.
might have had paint, etc., recently - looks mighty good - well,
'cept the damage, of course.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Angelo Giaimo"
To:
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350 SDL Opinions
Kalib, I'm in the lower Hudson Val
Kalib, I'm in the lower Hudson Valley, about 70 miles north of NYC.
I drove the car to the restoration shop that did my rust repair and repaint
about 5 years ago. Including new front fenders, a crapload of new trim and a
new trunk lid, as the old one was I rough shape. Probably dumped $6K+ int
Remain PO'ed until you are made whole.
The insco will not work all that hard to get you squared away to your liking.
They will do it to their liking and rush you to settle. Hold off until you get
them to find one EXACTLY like the one the bus hit. That is the one you can
settle for.
Maybe yo
BTW, my head gasket had about 115 kmi.
'Don't know which went first, though - the URO hose or the gasket.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Angelo Giaimo"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 3:24 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 350 SDL Opinions
Well folks, it finall
I think ins co will repair that.
BTW, 'should let mine go year and a half ago when USAA paid me significant
amt for vandal damage.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Angelo Giaimo"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 3:24 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 350 SDL Opinions
That's not so bad. The quarter panel can be repaired as can the rear apron. The
hood is all you need. That's definitely worth repairing.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 18, 2013, at 3:24 PM, Angelo Giaimo wrote:
> Well folks, it finally happened! My 1990 350SDL rod bender with 278k and a
> repair
Giaimo
To: "mercedes@okiebenz.com"
Subject: [MBZ] 350 SDL Opinions
Message-ID: <9c2c00b3-d3e2-4a17-a4df-6272692a4...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Well folks, it finally happened! My 1990 350SDL rod bender with 278k and a
repair history si
BTW, what happened to da badges? ;<)
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Angelo Giaimo"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 3:24 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 350 SDL Opinions
Well folks, it finally happened! My 1990 350SDL rod bender with 278k and a
repair history simila
Well, bad, but better than I was afraid of. 'Buff right out, eh, Rich?
BTW, Angelo, I can make ya a good deal on Rt Rr tail light assembly.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Angelo Giaimo"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 3:24 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 350 SDL
I think he is in NJ or somewhere around there?
--R
On 9/19/13 10:24 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Where are you located?
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 19, 2013, at 8:16 PM, Angelo Giaimo wrote:
Well folks, it finally happened! My 1990 350SDL rod bender with 278k and a
repair history similar
Where are you located?
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 19, 2013, at 8:16 PM, Angelo Giaimo wrote:
> Well folks, it finally happened! My 1990 350SDL rod bender with 278k and a
> repair history similar to Wilton's (my head gasket was at ~125k but still on
> the original trans) was rear-ended by a s
> Well folks, it finally happened! My 1990 350SDL rod bender with 278k and
> a repair history similar to Wilton's (my head gasket was at ~125k but
> still on the original trans) was rear-ended by a school bus!
Kind of makes you wish you bought Wilton's car last month, eh?
Worst bus story I heard
Yep, a real pity to lose a fine car like that. I wish you well. I trust
nobody was hurt.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Angelo Giaimo"
To:
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2013 9:16 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 350 SDL Opinions
Well folks, it finally happened! My 1990 350SDL
Well folks, it finally happened! My 1990 350SDL rod bender with 278k and a
repair history similar to Wilton's (my head gasket was at ~125k but still on
the original trans) was rear-ended by a school bus!
Getting an estimate from my shop today and my ins co is looking at it also, as
is the bus
The MB manual suggests that you decompress the spring and illustrates
the process.
Constantine
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Interesting. That's the same part as on my 1970280SE 3.5 coupe.
On 8/22/07, Constantine N. Polites <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> In the EPC you will find the Steering Knuckle in group 33, front axle.
> It is item 5. The MB part number is A 116 330 4120.
> Constantine
>
> ___
Decompressing a loose spring - and having to recompress it while
detached, may be more dangerous than just leaving it alone.
-Dave Walton
On 8/22/07, Hendrik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> ?
> Not necessary with a proper compression tool, however even if only
> removing one spring it is sti
In the EPC you will find the Steering Knuckle in group 33, front axle.
It is item 5. The MB part number is A 116 330 4120.
Constantine
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?
Not necessary with a proper compression tool, however even if only
removing one spring it is still a good idea to let the tension off it.
To be sure.
Rich Thomas wrote:
> When you take that thing out go put it somewhere behind the barn in a
> deep hole unless you decompress it.
>
> --
When you take that thing out go put it somewhere behind the barn in a
deep hole unless you decompress it.
--R
Hendrik wrote:
> No, photos are not really helpful, it is a matter of just doing it.
> Making sure everything is nicely aligned before compression and stopping
> if things don't appear
No, photos are not really helpful, it is a matter of just doing it.
Making sure everything is nicely aligned before compression and stopping
if things don't appear right.
The only photos that would be helpful are ones that show things when
they are not right, so you know when you have gone off t
Actually I do have the Klann tool. I also have the CD with the details
and some photographs. I only wanted the photographs in case I missed
something. Photographs might be helpful.
Does anyone know how to check the steering knuckle for conformity? The
manual simply states if in doubt throw
, August 21, 2007 8:28 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl- w126
What exactly do you need to know about it? On the 123 it is
straightforward -- put a plate in top, slide the tool down the hole,
slide a plate in the bottom and hook it all up then start cranking on
the screw
What exactly do you need to know about it? On the 123 it is
straightforward -- put a plate in top, slide the tool down the hole,
slide a plate in the bottom and hook it all up then start cranking on
the screw. I recall that putting a plate in a few turns above the
botttom/below the top and ro
Why do you want a picture, it is a straight forward job (although
potentially dangerous) and a picture will not tell you much.
The basics of the job are that there are two plates which are placed in
the springs as far apart as possible, with the alignment in such a way
that the open end of one p
Does anyone have any photographs showing the Klann spring removal tool
( Kl 0021)
being used on the front springs of the w 126?
Constantine
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Sorry for the repost. I was hoping that someone photographed the process.
Regards,
Constantine
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You aren't supposed to talk about those things anymore.
---R
Mitch Haley wrote:
> Hendrik wrote:
>
>> Hmmnh, I would have thought the 'official' factory spec tool would fit
>> without 'modifications'.
>>
>
> I think Rusty has the SIR tool, which is very close to the Klann tool, but
> mayb
Hendrik wrote:
>
> Hmmnh, I would have thought the 'official' factory spec tool would fit
> without 'modifications'.
I think Rusty has the SIR tool, which is very close to the Klann tool, but
maybe the shaft is larger?
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For new par
Hmmnh, I would have thought the 'official' factory spec tool would fit
without 'modifications'.
Anyway I didn't have to grind off much to get it in there and gave it a
coating of POR 15 afterwards.
Rich Thomas wrote:
> I rented Rusty's when I did the front suspension on Brunnhilde. I think
> i
I rented Rusty's when I did the front suspension on Brunnhilde. I think
it was the real deal. It was fairly straightforward except for having
to ream out the hole a bit to fit the thing down there.
http://www.constructivity.net/rebuilding_a_79_300td.htm
--R
Hendrik wrote:
> Did you use the o
Did you use the official MB tool or like me got a copy? I had to
'modify' my 123 to get it in there.
It's not rocket science to use, just a bit fiddly. However it makes
removing those springs a lot easier and SAFER.
Rich Thomas wrote:
> I don't know specifically about the 126, but on the 123 the
I don't know specifically about the 126, but on the 123 the thing slides
down the hole in the fender well (I had to ream mine out slightly) and
the plates slide in the spring coils down/up as far as you can get them,
then screw it together and start cranking on the screw to compress the
spring.
Does anyone have any photographs showing the Klann spring removal tool
( Kl 0021)
being used on the front springs of the w 126?
Constantine
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On Sun, 05 Aug 2007 20:58:24 -0500 "Constantine N. Polites"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Which shock would be recommended for the 350 sdl?
Bilstein, like it had when it left the factory. Call Rusty (800) 741-5252.
> Aparantly my name has been deleted from the list, you can contact me
> di
Which shock would be recommended for the 350 sdl?
I have recently posted some more photographs of the suspension system of
the 350 sdl for common use.
Go to: www.scaffolding.com/mb then find # 100 0074, 100 0075, 100
0083 and 100 0086.
Aparantly my name has been deleted from the list, y
Check sway bar mounts on both upper control arms -- they are fairly
light and often break.
Check the condition of the belt tensioner shock absorber, too -- it
will sounds like a bad injector knocking when the rubber in the mount
hole goes bad. If you press sideways on it with a large screwdri
At about 40mph I get a low frequency rattle up front. What are the
candidates? I changed the steering shock absorber some
time ago.
Regards,
Constantine
bit of oil vapor out the valve cover hole, and
sucking unfiltered air into the rubber intake snorkel.
=)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 10:01:44 -0400
> From: ANGELO GIAIMO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl glow plugs
>
>
&g
Constantine N. Polites wrote:
>Just a note for glow plug removal. You will save yourself a lot of
>grief if you remove the intake manifold.
Well, that might happen anyway.
Sunday, while tring to replace the boost pressure control hose on the
turbo, I removed the several other pieces of hard
Just a note for glow plug removal. You will save yourself a lot of
grief if you remove the intake manifold.
Constantine
I have a Vickers 266 tandem pump which has developed a leak in the
front seal. Seals are underway.
Has anyone removed the front shaft/pulley ? If so what tools if any did
you use. I have taken it apart once,
without removing the shaft/pulley so I know that it is a very delicate
operation. The
Update on the removal an replacement of the a/c clutch on the 350 sdl.
On this model you do not need a puller. You do need a large monkey
wrench with some
copper on each jaw ( to protect the pulley). You can then hold the
pulley with the wrench
while you remove the nut with a box wrench.
Y
It's been a while, but I believe I used a large pair of standard snap
ring pliers. Seems to me there are two snap rings, one internal and
the other external -- the internal one may be a bit of a PITA on the
car, but once it's out of the groove, you can just slide it out, the
only have to get i
At this point I am in the process of installing the magnet and could use
some input. I am having trouble installing
the snap ring. If anyone has done this work, what size snap ring pliers
did you use or what kind of tool did you use
to install the snap ring?
Constantine
Thanks all for your imput.
If time permits I'll photograph the process and post it, together with
the tools.
Regards,
Constantine
er 12, 2005 4:25 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 350 sdl a/c clutch r/r
>
> Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch? If so,
> do any of the MB procedures apply (CD).? If not
> any good pitfalls?
>
> Thanks,
> Constantine
You will need a pair of snap ring plier to remove a couple snap rings
in order to remove the clutch bearing. The clutch plate will pop right
off, no tool required (you do need the tools to get the seal out).
Pulley presses onto the clutch, but I'm assuming you will get a new one.
Peter
Constantine N. Polites wrote:
> Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch? If so,
> do any of the MB procedures apply (CD).? If not
> any good pitfalls? =
I've attached the pages from the 201 manual that describe removal of the =
clutch from a Nippondenso compressor. It's essentially the
Some ND compressors need a pin wrench to counterhold the clutch so you
can remove the center nut, but others have no provision for the pin
wrench. In the latter case you can use channel-lock pliers. You'll
need the MB pulling tool that screws into the center of the clutch,
but some folks have had s
Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch? If so,
do any of the MB procedures apply (CD).? If not
any good pitfalls?
Thanks,
Constantine
Sorry, I tried to cancel the previous post.
Regarding the bearing on the compressor clutch, does anyone have a
source for such?
I checked the vulcanized rubber and it appear rather hard. Would this
indicate that the clutch should be replaced ? ( My feeling)
If so I have two other options (1
I am getting a lot of noise from the fan area. The fan spins freely
when the motor is not running (which I believe it did not do
earlier). It also rotates when the motor is running. The fan is
plastic and is not coming in contact with the shrouding.
What needs to be replaced?
Thanks for y
Got mine in '95 w/79kmi; timing chn broke at 89kmi; much repair to head -
valves, liftrs, new chain, guides, lots of stuf I don't remember; no repair
to bottom part of eng. Now at 181kmi, couple qts oil btwen chnges at 5k.
Fantastic car; best drive and ride ever for me. I'm 71.
Wilton
The 350 SDL is a highly serviceable car. If the car has its original
motor then you absolutely must factor in the cost of
a new motor. Mercedes has solved the problems- but won't say how. It
would be unwise to purchase anything but
a rebuilt unit from MB- they have a plant in Berlin, where they
I've seen this caused by a hairline crack in the strip fuse. Don't
just visually inspect it in situ. Actuall pull the fuse and tweak it a
little to see if it falls apart on ya.
Gary Thompson
1995 E320
1984 300D "The Curse"
2005 RX330 Mama's new wagon, so now I get to drive the W124!
On 7/21/
Marshall (and others)
The next morning, when I started the blower motor functioned for about 5
minutes then became inactive for the rest of the day.
Is the controler in a two part aluminum housing under the driver's side
near the cruise control module? Do you know what
ohms the blower motor s
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