As some of yall may have seen there is an 87 300sdl in the Charlotte LKQ. I
went last weekend to attempt to pull the head but I didnt manage to get it
off, I think I missed a bolt or something. Either way, it has a 14 head and
has a fresh radiator so I suspect it maybe cracked but I could be mistak
In the fuse business, more is not better. You should use the 80 amp
fuses. If the 80 amp blows, youhave a problem. fix the problem, then
replace the fuse. I always try to have 2 appropriate fuses in a
plastic bag in the glove box of each car. Once you know about the glow
relay fuse,it i
The fuse is there to protect the wires - it's supposed to melt before the
wires can start a fire. Use the proper fuse ...
On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 4:57 AM Ralph Robertson via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I checked my strips using a magnifying glass and the amp. says 80. I have
> ord
IIRC VW also used 80a strip fuses. A local dealer might have them in stock...
-Curt
On Friday, August 2, 2019, 8:06:05 AM EDT, Max Dillon via Mercedes
wrote:
Bigger is not better with fuses, order two or three 80 amp.
If the fuse is too big, that can lead to melted wires and worse.
--
Bigger is not better with fuses, order two or three 80 amp.
If the fuse is too big, that can lead to melted wires and worse.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
On August 2, 2019 5:56:05 AM EDT, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
wrote:
>I checked my strips using a magnifying glass and the amp. says 80. I
I checked my strips using a magnifying glass and the amp. says 80. I have
ordered already for 2 to be shipped and they are 100 A. Wouldn't those be
better; a bit stronger? Or could that cause problems? They are cheap
enough to have to re-order.
I used a heavy wire as a jumper, but not planning
IIRC they are 80A and cost $.33 at AutohausAZ:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/0005450334
On Thu, Aug 1, 2019 at 10:49 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> There are a bunch of different amperages available. The rating is stamped
> in the center of the fuse strip as I recal
There are a bunch of different amperages available. The rating is stamped in
the center of the fuse strip as I recall.
-D
> On Aug 1, 2019, at 10:27 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I think the six cylinders use 80 amp.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
>
> On August 1, 2019 8:39:5
I think the six cylinders use 80 amp.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
On August 1, 2019 8:39:54 AM EDT, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
wrote:
>I *think* they’re the same (20A?) but check to make sure the amperage
>on both cars is the same.
>
>--FT
>Sent from iPhone
>
>> On Aug 1, 2019, at 8:35 AM,
It has been quite awhile since I changed any of the fuses and don't
remember so you are most likely correct. I think the last ones I bought
were from the Benz dealer in Houston and I bought 4 or 5 as they were
pretty cheap, probably 15 years ago! I saw a couple not long ago so
they are still
no 4 cyl, 5 cyl and 6 cyl are different. One is 60A, but I don't
remember which.
Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote on 8/1/19 7:39 AM:
I *think* they’re the same (20A?) but check to make sure the amperage on both
cars is the same.
--FT
___
http://
I *think* they’re the same (20A?) but check to make sure the amperage on both
cars is the same.
--FT
Sent from iPhone
> On Aug 1, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Thanks, will be sure to get a couple of extras. I also have an '84 300CD,
> which probably uses the s
Thanks, will be sure to get a couple of extras. I also have an '84 300CD,
which probably uses the same type of strip fuse. So extras will come in
handy.
Ralph
On Thu, Aug 1, 2019 at 9:13 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Ralph,
>
> As you found, the strip fuses deter
Ralph,
As you found, the strip fuses deteriorate over time and simply split in many
cases. They heat up and cool as they’re used, and this thermal cycling causes
them to eventually crack or split. A lot of times it’s not easy to see, so I
always recommend that you remove the fuse from the screw
Always CHECK YOUR FUSES.
The simplest stuff first
--FT
Sent from iPhone
> On Aug 1, 2019, at 7:53 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I found the relay, and the strip fuse was bent upwards, touched it and it
> fell apart. Jumped the two terminals and the glow plug light came on.
I found the relay, and the strip fuse was bent upwards, touched it and it
fell apart. Jumped the two terminals and the glow plug light came on. Made
my connections more firm, and let the glow plugs light up for 4-5 seconds
and voila, engine started up immediately. Thank you very much.
Ralph
On
Strip fuse? On GP relay which on my SDs is mounted above left front wheel
toward the front. You can jump it to see if that gets power to the GPs or just
change it, they’re like $2.
Or the relay itself could have gone bad. If the fuse is good then jump the
relay and see if that works. Or you c
I tried starting my car this morning but my glow plug light did not come on.
First time in 10 yrs. owning this car. It was a very warm day and thought
maybe in might start without the glow plugs. No go! Looked in the fuse box
but could not find anything for the glow plugs. Where would I fin
Clean off the area with carb cleaner spray, really good. Add some dye check
to the trans oil [it does not impact the oil], Run the car for a bit, put
it on the rack so you can get a good look at the leak area with a black
light...
Follow the dye check to the leak source.. if it's the O ring... it
My car has been leaking Trans. fluid this past year. I had the seals replaced
but now noticed some leaking. Had it checked today and my mechanic says the
leak seems to be a valve on the right side of the tranny which has been
identified as the secondary trans. oil pump. There is an O ring the
On Wed, 14 Feb 2018 15:00:09 -0800 clay monroe via Mercedes
wrote:
> The rotor is not supposed to warp, so there is some other cause of the
> issue.
I replaced the disks and pads on our '90 E300D and the pedal pulsing
stopped.
Craig
___
http://www.okiebenz.
> '84TD via Mercedes wrote:
> My car recently starting a pulsing in the brake pedal. Had a
> garage look at it and they recommended a rotor turning to remove
> high spots. This worked fine for awhile, but the pulsing is now
> back again.
Can't say for sure, but that is the symptom of brakes tha
Common knowledge of Benz rotors is that they do not turn. Get fresh rotors and
have the brake system checked out. The rotor is not supposed to warp, so there
is some other cause of the issue.
Other list folks are far more versed on this.
clay
1974 450sl - Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL -
I actually found the wear gauge on an MB rotor just a year or so ago. Never
knew they had them. If you haven’t seen one it’s just a little crescent shaped
cutout on the edge of the rotor wear surface.
-D
> On Feb 14, 2018, at 2:25 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> You don’t tu
Jabba
--FT
On 2/14/18 3:01 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
These are but a few of the long list of awesome online parts shops with
competitive pricing and excellent customer service.
On Wed, Feb 14, 2018 at 2:59 PM, Craig via Mercedes
wrote:
On Wed, 14 Feb 2018 19:22:28 + (UT
These are but a few of the long list of awesome online parts shops with
competitive pricing and excellent customer service.
On Wed, Feb 14, 2018 at 2:59 PM, Craig via Mercedes
wrote:
> On Wed, 14 Feb 2018 19:22:28 + (UTC) "Ralph,'84TD via Mercedes"
> wrote:
>
> > Should I have the rotors re
On Wed, 14 Feb 2018 19:22:28 + (UTC) "Ralph,'84TD via Mercedes"
wrote:
> Should I have the rotors replaced or could it be something else.
> Thanks Ralph
You can get replacement disks at Rock Auto http://www.rockauto.com --
that's where I got them for our '90 E300D. They are cheaper than othe
Or better yet importecautoparts.com
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 14, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
>
> Get a choice of brands + free shipping at www.autohausaz.com
>
>> On Wed, Feb 14, 2018 at 2:25 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
>> wrote:
>> You don’t turn MB rotors. As you
Get a choice of brands + free shipping at www.autohausaz.com
On Wed, Feb 14, 2018 at 2:25 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> You don’t turn MB rotors. As you discovered it’s a waste of money. You
> just need to replace the rotors.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On
You don’t turn MB rotors. As you discovered it’s a waste of money. You just
need to replace the rotors.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 14, 2018, at 1:22 PM, Ralph,'84TD via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> My car recently starting a pulsing in the brake pedals. Had a garage look at
> it and they recomme
My car recently starting a pulsing in the brake pedal. Had a garage look at it
and they recommended a rotor turning to remove high spots. This worked fine
for awhile, but the pulsing is now back again. Should I have the rotors
replaced or could it be something else.
Thanks
Ralph '87 300 SDL
; - Original Message - From: "Ralph Robertson via Mercedes" <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> > To: "Randy Bennell"
> > Cc: "Mercedes Discussion List"
> > Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 4:48 PM
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300
t;Mercedes Discussion List"
> Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 4:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL transmission shifting
>
>
> what is the normal idle speed? I will check again when it's warm. It
>> doesn't sound like a fast idle.
>>
>> O
May pop a wheelie at 7K - or an axle.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Randy Bennell via Mercedes"
To: "Ralph Robertson" ; "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL transmission shifting
700?
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Ralph Robertson via Mercedes"
To: "Randy Bennell"
Cc: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL transmission shifting
what is the normal idle speed?
sorry, reading it wrong, it is 700, not 7000.
Ralph
On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 4:48 PM, Ralph Robertson wrote:
> what is the normal idle speed? I will check again when it's warm. It
> doesn't sound like a fast idle.
>
> On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 4:45 PM, Randy Bennell
> wrote:
>
>> H - no wond
what is the normal idle speed? I will check again when it's warm. It
doesn't sound like a fast idle.
On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 4:45 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
> H - no wonder it lurches - 7000 RPM idle -
>
> RB
>
>
> On 17/10/2014 3:40 PM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> Just checked
H - no wonder it lurches - 7000 RPM idle -
RB
On 17/10/2014 3:40 PM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes wrote:
Just checked the idle speed; 6500/7000 at start up. The lurch is really in
the reverse gear, first gear is not very hard at all, just the reverse.
The reverse also takes a bit to engage
Just checked the idle speed; 6500/7000 at start up. The lurch is really in
the reverse gear, first gear is not very hard at all, just the reverse.
The reverse also takes a bit to engage, slower than first gear.
Ralph
On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 9:54 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
> My 300SDL transmission sh
My 300SDL transmission shifts very nicely thru all the gears, however,
when
putting the car in gear originally from neutral it goes into gear
rather
harsh, also, when I put the car into reverse; the same thing.
Idle speed? The SDL is set to idle high, mechanically. The EDS is
what drags it do
Flex disc(s)? Transmission, differential mounts?
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Oct 17, 2014 6:59 AM, "Ralph Robertson via Mercedes" <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> My 300SDL transmission shifts very nicely thru all the gears, however, when
> putting the car in gear originally from neutral it g
Ralph Robertson via Mercedes wrote:
My 300SDL transmission shifts very nicely thru all the gears, however, when
putting the car in gear originally from neutral it goes into gear rather
harsh, also, when I put the car into reverse; the same thing. Quite a
difference in shifting from the normal fo
My 300SDL transmission shifts very nicely thru all the gears, however, when
putting the car in gear originally from neutral it goes into gear rather
harsh, also, when I put the car into reverse; the same thing. Quite a
difference in shifting from the normal forward gears shifting on the go.
Can th
Andrew, you've stirred a thought. A faulty kick-down switch can cause odd
shift behavior, and that is a relatively cheap fix. I don't think that is
the problem here, but it is worth checking. Mal-adjusted Bowden cable,
mal-adjusted throttle linkage, clogged filter: throw one or more of those
int
I didn't think so either, but sometime one gets lucky.
On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 1:10 PM, Meade Dillon wrote:
> Not likely.
>
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
>
> On Jul 2, 2014 12:38 PM, "Andrew Strasfogel"
> wrote:
> >
> > The SDL that is the topic of this discussion.
> >
> >
> > On Wed, Jul 2, 20
: [MBZ] '87 300SDL Transmission
Not likely.
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Jul 2, 2014 12:38 PM, "Andrew Strasfogel" wrote:
>
> The SDL that is the topic of this discussion.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 12:04 PM, Meade Dillon
wrote:
>
> > Possibl
Not likely.
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Jul 2, 2014 12:38 PM, "Andrew Strasfogel" wrote:
>
> The SDL that is the topic of this discussion.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 12:04 PM, Meade Dillon
wrote:
>
> > Possibly, your car or mine?
> >
> > Max Dillon,
> > Charleston SC
> >
> > On Jul 2, 2014 1
The SDL that is the topic of this discussion.
On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 12:04 PM, Meade Dillon wrote:
> Possibly, your car or mine?
>
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
>
> On Jul 2, 2014 11:42 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel"
> wrote:
> >
> > Could it be a balky neutral safety switch?
> >
> __
Possibly, your car or mine?
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Jul 2, 2014 11:42 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel" wrote:
>
> Could it be a balky neutral safety switch?
>
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Could it be a balky neutral safety switch?
On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 9:38 AM, Meade Dillon wrote:
> All this is anecdotal of course. Jaime K. reports similar experience using
> the appropriate MB approved fluid. That may mean that both M1 and the MB
> spec fluid have a common property not found
Meade Dillon wrote:
All this is anecdotal of course. Jaime K. reports similar experience using
the appropriate MB approved fluid. That may mean that both M1 and the MB
spec fluid have a common property not found in "brand X" fluid, or it may
mean that a new filter and clean fluid will do the tr
All this is anecdotal of course. Jaime K. reports similar experience using
the appropriate MB approved fluid. That may mean that both M1 and the MB
spec fluid have a common property not found in "brand X" fluid, or it may
mean that a new filter and clean fluid will do the trick, any brand will
do
Yes, M1 is our shorthand for Mobil 1.
And yes again, that would be Mobil 1 ATF. It's more expensive but it
usually does all Max (Meade) says it does on many of our cars with
shifting problems. But if there's mechanical damage it will probably
not help - but it always depends on the type of
This M1 ATF, I take is Mobil 1 ATF? Is there a specific no. to ask for? I
will try that first with a complete change, flush and filter change.
Thanks.
Ralph
On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Meade Dillon wrote:
> When I bought my '87 300TD, it shifted very poorly, usually late.
>
> About 10k m
Is the 87 300sdl tranny susceptible to the bead two piston failure like the
earlier ones? There is one out here on craigslist with a suspected bad
transmission.
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 1, 2014, at 3:08 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:
>
> Noticed a possible problem w
When I bought my '87 300TD, it shifted very poorly, usually late.
About 10k miles after changing fluid/filter and using M1, the transmission
shifted much much better. The shift points were far more consistent. I
then adjusted the Bowden cable, and it was nearly perfect.
Max Dillon,
Charleston S
Yes. Fred recommended that for my 300CD & I did that & after a couple
thousand miles the flaring has subsided & up shifts are smoother. I was not
being facetious in my earlier post about M1 ATF.
On Jul 1, 2014 10:38 AM, "Meade Dillon" wrote:
> I'd try a fluid and filter change first, using M1 AT
I'd try a fluid and filter change first, using M1 ATF.
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
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And did you CHECK THE FUSES?
Dan
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 1, 2014, at 9:51 AM, Dwight Giles wrote:
>
> But are you using M1 ATF?
>> On Jul 1, 2014 9:39 AM, "Gary Hurst" wrote:
>>
>> usually i'd say fluid, but being that is ok, i'd guess the tranny is dying
>>
>> i can send you new one via
But are you using M1 ATF?
On Jul 1, 2014 9:39 AM, "Gary Hurst" wrote:
> usually i'd say fluid, but being that is ok, i'd guess the tranny is dying
>
> i can send you new one via USPS first class mail if you like
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 6:08 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:
>
> > Noticed a possibl
usually i'd say fluid, but being that is ok, i'd guess the tranny is dying
i can send you new one via USPS first class mail if you like
On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 6:08 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:
> Noticed a possible problem with my '87 SDL transmission yesterday. Slowed
> down for a yield sign an
Noticed a possible problem with my '87 SDL transmission yesterday. Slowed
down for a yield sign and slowed to about 15-20mph and then proceeded to
drive away, but the car acted like it was in neutral. Several seconds it
did nothing but rev up without engaging. Shifted down to drive 3 and it
went
Ralph Robertson writes:
> My SDL blew 2 fuses yesterday when using the A/C/ The fan just stopped
> running and heat started coming in the vents. Even when I shut off the
> vents the heat still pours out of the defroster vents. Changed the first
> fuse and after another hour or so of running fi
You have an unprotected short somewhere. Could be the monovalve or
one of the switchover valves that operate the flaps.
The fan fuse is separate, I don't think the pushbutton unit will blow
a fuse due to the blower motor drawing too much current.
Peter
Just checked out the fuse holder, there is not any distortion at all,
everything looks good in there. Have another fuse working, at the moment,
will hope for the best.
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vents the heat still pours out of the defroster vents. Changed the first
fuse and after another hour or so of running fine, the same thing
happened.
Poor fuse contacts? Keep fan on low
try one more time.
-- Jim (on road)
___
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To sear
My SDL blew 2 fuses yesterday when using the A/C/ The fan just stopped
running and heat started coming in the vents. Even when I shut off the
vents the heat still pours out of the defroster vents. Changed the first
fuse and after another hour or so of running fine, the same thing happened.
Any
Don't know about them being checked but it seems the front pads are worn down
to the sensors
Sent from my iPhone
On May 13, 2012, at 6:00 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:
> My '87 300SDL's brake pad dash light has started flashing while driving and
> staying on at times, especially when I have the h
It's just a wire to ground, so if the light is coming on, the wire is
grounded. On when the pedal is depressed and off when released
usually means you will be running metal to metal on the pads and
rotors in about 2000 miles, but it is possible that the wire is loose
or rubbing on somethin
Hi Ralph,
Its pretty easy for the sensor wires to accidentally catch the rotor and
cause the light to come on when it doesn't really make any sense.
Jaime
On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 7:00 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:
> My '87 300SDL's brake pad dash light has started flashing while driving and
> sta
My '87 300SDL's brake pad dash light has started flashing while driving and
staying on at times, especially when I have the headlights turned on,
(which seems strange or coincidental.) It also comes on when I am
stopping, and goes off when the brake pedal is released.
I had the brakes checked jus
Dieselhead wrote:
It is best to change the filters with a warm engine. (and a good
battery, with a battery charger close by)
I change the clear inline filter and go for a drive. When I get back, I change
the big one, restart the car, and try to hold 2000-3000 rpm until the engine
smooths out
That is another signal for a plugged filter. Change both. If that
does not cure it, then the next step is to clean the tank screen.
It is best to change the filters with a warm engine. (and a good
battery, with a battery charger close by)
Have not noticed any difference in shifting except
Have not noticed any difference in shifting except once, yesterday, when the
engine was cold and I was accelerating to get up to traffic speed, the 4th
gear seemed to take longer to shift, once it was warmed up, I did not notice
anything different.
Ralph
On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 10:41 AM, Dieselhea
Sounds like a plugged filter to me too. First sign I notice is a slight
surging when pulling a steep hill.
Mike
On Oct 18, 2011 9:46 AM, "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Sounds like partially restricted fuel filter(s) creating foaming under
> load, at the highest rate of fuel consumpt
Sounds like partially restricted fuel filter(s) creating foaming
under load, at the highest rate of fuel consumption. Do you notice
any difference in shifting?
I will definitely get the fuel filter changed, and the air filter was
checked recently, but I will change that as well. The strang
I will definitely get the fuel filter changed, and the air filter was
checked recently, but I will change that as well. The strange thing is that
it runs perfect otherwise, just when it is under load on a long grade that
it seems to lose power and start kind of "missing", and when I come over the
change air and fuel filters
On 10/17/2011 2:52 PM, Ralph Robertson wrote:
Today I noticed my SDL started running a bit rough while underload climbing
a long steep grade. Running just fine under normal load, starting well, as
usual, nothing seems different except this roughness like a dirty fuel
Sounds a lot like clogged fuel filters. I'd start there. Watch the clear
in-line filter with engine running, you may see the air bubble grow when you
rev the engine if that filter is clogging up.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
Ralph Robertson wrote:
Today I noticed my SDL sta
Well, are your fuel filters dirty? Tank strainer? In the boy's 300SD
we had that problem when the intake manifold to ALDA hose was clogged,
but I don't know if your engine has something similar or not.
---R
On 10/17/11 3:52 PM, Ralph Robertson wrote:
Today I noticed my SDL started running a
Today I noticed my SDL started running a bit rough while underload climbing
a long steep grade. Running just fine under normal load, starting well, as
usual, nothing seems different except this roughness like a dirty fuel
filter. Never experienced this before and was wondering if it was related
t
Thanks for the info., I keep learning things about these fantastic machines.
Ralph
On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 8:17 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:
> It's for static suppression, believe it or not.
>
> It allows any static charges that build up in the wheel/tire to bleed off
> to the chassis and vice versa.
>
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 07:17:37 -0400 Dan Penoff wrote:
> It's for static suppression, believe it or not.
>
> It allows any static charges that build up in the wheel/tire to bleed
> off to the chassis and vice versa.
>
> If you don't replace it, you might get some static or noise in AM
> broadcasts
It's for static suppression, believe it or not.
It allows any static charges that build up in the wheel/tire to bleed off to
the chassis and vice versa.
If you don't replace it, you might get some static or noise in AM broadcasts.
Dan
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 4, 2011, at 6:25 AM, Ralph Robe
I have a question for the experts; what is the small brass insert on the end
of the front wheel hubs on my '87 300SDL? It seems to have a spring effect
and goes up against the wheel bearing cup. Never noticed them before and
can't figure out what it is for. Thanks.
Ralph '84 300CD
'87
It's on the crapslist in NY, he's looking at it on his way back from
oneonta.
Poor thing will be running on motor oil and fryer grease if he does buy
it...
Walt
On Aug 21, 2011 3:00 PM, "Tim C" wrote:
> So, did friend buy it? And if not, where is it? :)
>
> -Tim
> Would have to live in his car i
So, did friend buy it? And if not, where is it? :)
-Tim
Would have to live in his car if he bought another before finishing the 300D
On Aug 19, 2011 5:08 PM, "Mitch Haley" wrote:
> Walt Zarnoch wrote:
>> The seller has it priced at $600, doesn't get much cheaper than that.
>
> Not too long ago,
Walt Zarnoch wrote:
The seller has it priced at $600, doesn't get much cheaper than that.
Not too long ago, anything with a running 603 was worth that easily.
Today, anything with an S in the name is worth at least $400 based on weight.
Mitch.
___
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The seller has it priced at $600, doesn't get much cheaper than that.
Walt
On Aug 19, 2011 10:58 AM, "Tim C" wrote:
> On Aug 19, 2011 10:05 AM, "Walt Zarnoch" wrote:
>>
>> Friend is looking to buy it, has an I6.
>
> Great engine, great body. Head greater than 14 (middle number) is better.
>
>> O
On Aug 19, 2011 10:05 AM, "Walt Zarnoch" wrote:
>
> Owner states that it won't shift into OD sometimes
Had the same issue on the way to lunch, make sure the linkage is right;
transmission was on 3 in my case due to ham-handed-ness. Easy enough to
make sure that it goes to 2, mine has very obviou
On Aug 19, 2011 10:05 AM, "Walt Zarnoch" wrote:
>
> Friend is looking to buy it, has an I6.
Great engine, great body. Head greater than 14 (middle number) is better.
> Owner states that it won't shift into OD sometimes, and if he's
accelerating
> and it shifts up to OD it it will sometimes "fee
Owner states that it won't shift into OD sometimes,
SDL doesn't have overdrive. Standard 1-2-3-4, 4 is 1:1.
-- Jim
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Friend is looking to buy it, has an I6.
Owner states that it won't shift into OD sometimes, and if he's accelerating
and it shifts up to OD it it will sometimes "feel like it goes into
neutral".
What say the list? My bet is it's a vac issue, but...
Walt
___
ht
Is there a fuel tank vent for the 300SDL? Is the cap supposed to vent?
Yes. No. It might be under the car, that's where it is
on some of these things.
-- Jim
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I have the same on the w124 87 300d, As long as its pressure and not
suction you should be OK,
-Rolf
On 03/21/2011 04:14 PM, Tim C wrote:
...but I don't know, and can't find a clear answer.
Is there a fuel tank vent for the 300SDL? Is the cap supposed to vent?
I have a lot of whoosh when I
There is a vent on top of the tank for the 84 SD, I presume your car has
a similar arrangement. On the SD you can take out a panel in front of
the trunk to get at the tank, and I think there is a way to get at from
the back shelf, like under the first aid kit hatch?
--R
On 3/21/2011 4:14 PM,
k on)
Charleston SC
From: Tim C
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Mon, March 21, 2011 4:14:32 PM
Subject: [MBZ] '87 300SDL, ignorant question...
...but I don't know, and can't find a clear answer.
Is there a fuel tank vent for the 300SDL? Is the cap
...but I don't know, and can't find a clear answer.
Is there a fuel tank vent for the 300SDL? Is the cap supposed to vent?
I have a lot of whoosh when I open the cap, and the car gets rumbly at
idle on occasion [that could definitely be a coincidence]. I always
forget until I have opened the ca
gt; > If this is the case then it's time for a new alternator.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Tom Hargrave
> > www.kegkits.com
> > 256-656-1924
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAI
Nearly 4 yrs ago, a few days after getting my showroom-appearing 87 300D (82
kmi), my indie installed a new serp belt. Next day, alt. pulley came off;
got AAA tow 'bout 5 miles home. Coupla days later, stealer hauled car to
stealer garage and installed new alt.
Wilton
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