Agreed, When you said it worked one day and not the next, that
eliminates the rusted stick possibility.
Depending on the pedal feel, you could have a linkage issue or
fingers worn off the pressure plate.
Anyway on the tractor if you see my other post I'd already heard of
this possibility an
: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Auto Trans Diagnosis A
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
On my first MB, the 190Dc, soon after I bought it, I pushed in the
clutch at a RR crossing, and it didn't go out of gear. Turned
Dunno the oversteer/understeer theory, and it doesn't matter much to
me. What I know is that if the front does not steer, you have no
control. Yes, the back can slip so far and fast that it exceeds the
maximum turn mechanically, or it can occur faster than you can react.
For most drivers (ine
> I generally keep not so good tires on the rear so I don't ruin good
> tires when this happens, and for safety, the best tires should always
> be on the front axle.
There is an on-going debate about this. If you have poor tires on the
rear, the rear will have less traction and will break loose
That is just amazing. Way to go Gerry.
Harry
86 300 SDL
- Original Message -
From: "archer"
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Auto Trans Diagnosis A
Aimed a light at the hole in the housing and put a
ATTABOY! Leave it to the young kids to come up with a technological solution!
I did think of a remote camera, but i don't have one available here.
I was thinking of something more expesnsive, like a borescope.
Aimed a light at the hole in the housing and put a computer camera
on a block und
Aimed a light at the hole in the housing and put a computer camera on a
block under the car. Sat in the car with a laptop and kept tapping the
starter until I could see the drain plug. Went back under the car with a
wrench and a pan, drained the ATF, pulled everything out. Done in two trips
AHA! Sounds like an easy CHEAP fix.
We dragged a truck around the shop about 20 times while holding the
clutch down on the tractor the truck steerer would periodically step
on the brakes until the tractor's wheels slipped. I'd also heard of
stuck clutch disks.
So either its stuck amazingly
On my first MB, the 190Dc, soon after I bought it, I pushed in the
clutch at a RR crossing, and it didn't go out of gear. Turned out
the throwout had seized sometime before. Each time you pushed the
clutch, the throwout wore on the pressure plate arms. That day the
arms wore through, so the
Thats how I do it.
On 9/24/2010 12:46 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
Does that tranny housing have the little hole at the bottom to
where you get at the drain plug for the TC? I just take a
longish large screwdriver and pry the TC around through the
hole. Takes a few minutes but gets you there with
05 -0400
From: Mitch Haley
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Auto Trans Diagnosis A
Message-ID: <4c9e1415.6010...@voyager.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Curt Raymond wrote:
> The nice thing about a tractor is you don't so much drop
Curt Raymond wrote:
The nice thing about a tractor is you don't so much drop the trans as roll it
backwards...
I may actually be doing this relatively soon. I think I've stumbled on to what may be an excellent deal on a small diesel tractor with a loader and a bad clutch. Whats actually bad abo
Weird. I guess it could happen if the flywheel was machined a little
out of tolerance small and was not caught in manufacturing, combined
with a large end of the tolerance ring gear. My guess is that one or
the other was out of tolerance. Made a good deal for you! I know
there were some odd
2cyl
diesel starts super easy and runs strong. Could be a great deal...
-Curt
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 00:23:38 -0500
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Auto Trans Diagnosis A
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii&q
A few years ago I bought a 240D parts car that wouldn't start. The
starter would spin free, it sounded like it wasn't grabbing the ring.
I wacked the starter with a hammer a few times to see if that would
help, but then just took the car apart. I needed the trans for my
300D. Turned out the ring
but other than old tractors, you almost never need to. it is not
that bad, just drop the trans and unbolt the flywheel. Just a
matter of perspective, I guess. And I never had to do it with an
auto trans the weight of those Ps of S adds to the aggravation
factor for sure.
on tractors,
On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 20:53:52 -0500 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I did buy a new ring gear once for something. I think maybe it was an
> OM621. It was not that expensive.
Yes, but ...
GETTING to the ring gear is a major hassle.
Craig
___
http:
I never investigated that on the 107. I know on the 123 240D it is
nearly impossible to do because of all the belt pulleys and the
length of the socket you need to reach the bolt and the proximity of
the radiator. On plastic radiator cars, I try not to put a socket on
the front pulley unless
Wish I could find and easy way to bar over the flywheel.
27mm socket on short extension of 3/4" Harbor Freight ratchet
set usually works for me.
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http:/
Yeah, but nothing to pry on with this one. In theory, you have a 25%
chance of hitting it each time. I think it was about the 8th trip
before I hit it. The last one I did, I hit it when I crawled under
the first time. The engine just stopped in the right spot. I think
that was a 603, tho t
Jaime Kopchinski wrote:
Why not use a socket on the crankshaft bolt? Always works for me on
W116, 123, 107, 124, 201. If you lay under the car from the front,
you can turn the crank while waiting for the drain to go by. And you
don't risk missing up expensive to repair stuff like a ring gear.
Why not use a socket on the crankshaft bolt? Always works for me on
W116, 123, 107, 124, 201. If you lay under the car from the front,
you can turn the crank while waiting for the drain to go by. And you
don't risk missing up expensive to repair stuff like a ring gear.
Jaime
On Fri, Sep 24, 20
Does that tranny housing have the little hole at the bottom to where you
get at the drain plug for the TC? I just take a longish large
screwdriver and pry the TC around through the hole. Takes a few minutes
but gets you there with not too hard work.
--R
On 9/24/2010 1:21 PM, Dieselhead wrot
Well, the oil is very dirty, and has a high amount of alum. It is
not the worst I have seen. That prize belongs to a 124. By the
way, that car has run fine for many 10ks since.
I am still trying to find the TC drain. Bump the starter and then
crawl under to see if I got lucky. No happine
Thanks Dan. That was the original plan. (Drain and filter change)
But I started wondering if there was really any hope for that being a
good solution. Glad to know that is a possible solution.
Had the same symptoms with my 82 300SD. Trans flush did not solve
the problem, but a trans drain,
Loren:
Had the same symptoms with my 82 300SD. Trans flush did not solve the
problem, but a trans drain, screen clean, and refill did. Problem has
not returned.
Dan
On Sep 23, 2010, at 8:46 PM, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:
This is an 85 380SL. Trans shifts only after over-revvin
26 matches
Mail list logo
