Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank sender repair

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

That is an interesting idea.

On 10/26/2019 4:25 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

JB Weld it in place and restore the electrical connection with the copper paint 
they sell fir defroster grid repairs?

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank sender repair

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

JB Weld it in place and restore the electrical connection with the copper paint 
they sell fir defroster grid repairs?

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank sender repair

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Probably would take more skill than I have. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2019, at 2:40 PM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
> 
> Looks to me like part of the plastic is gone, too.  Soldering to items
> embedded in plastic is rather tricky.  Otherwise you could indeed repair that.
> 
> -- Jim
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank sender repair

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

Looks to me like part of the plastic is gone, too.  Soldering to items
embedded in plastic is rather tricky.  Otherwise you could indeed repair that.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank sender repair

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

I have decided it’s not worth trying to fix the reserve light and damage it to 
where it doesn’t work at all.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2019, at 1:17 PM, Craig via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 11:24:22 -0500 Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
>> I found a reasonably priced used tank sender for the 190D which came
>> from Canada. It arrived and I plugged it in to test its it works
>> perfectly except for turning on the light for the low fuel level. I
>> pulled it apart and the thing is super clean but one of the contact
>> tabs at the bottom was broke off and rattling around inside. I have the
>> piece but figured it would try to reattach it. Is this possible with my
>> soldering iron? Looks like it’s basically a copper contact. 
> 
> Yes, you could use a soldering iron, but the parts to be soldered need to
> be scrupulously clean. You also need to be aware of the possibility of
> melting the plastic.
> 
> Having something other than solder bridging the break, like Max said, is
> important. His suggestion of using a piece from another sender is a good
> suggestion.
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank sender repair

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 11:24:22 -0500 Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
 wrote:

> I found a reasonably priced used tank sender for the 190D which came
> from Canada. It arrived and I plugged it in to test its it works
> perfectly except for turning on the light for the low fuel level. I
> pulled it apart and the thing is super clean but one of the contact
> tabs at the bottom was broke off and rattling around inside. I have the
> piece but figured it would try to reattach it. Is this possible with my
> soldering iron? Looks like it’s basically a copper contact. 

Yes, you could use a soldering iron, but the parts to be soldered need to
be scrupulously clean. You also need to be aware of the possibility of
melting the plastic.

Having something other than solder bridging the break, like Max said, is
important. His suggestion of using a piece from another sender is a good
suggestion.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank sender repair

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

You need some copper to bridge the break point, needs to be rigid. Piece from 
another sender? Can you substitute that whole copper piece with both contacts?

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sat Oct 26 12:32:18 EDT 2019 Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
:
 
> I found a reasonably priced used tank sender for the 190D which came from 
> Canada. It arrived and I plugged it in to test its it works perfectly except 
> for turning on the light for the low fuel level. I pulled it apart and the 
> thing is super clean but one of the contact tabs at the bottom was broke off 
> and rattling around inside. I have the piece but figured it would try to 
> reattach it. Is this possible with my soldering iron? Looks like it’s 
> basically a copper contact. 
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

I've done the POR15 sealing once. Do heed the instructions to blow out
all the vent lines and fittings with compressed air before the sealer
sets up.


Curt Raymond via Mercedes  writes:

>  I've done that on my Cub Cadet tractors. Both of them had tiny pinholes in 
> the very bottom of the tank. I used POR15 gas tank sealer though I suspect 
> any of the magic tank sealers would work adequately.
> I did screw up one of the tanks and put way too much, it pooled in the 
> bottom and took months to cure all the way through. Or maybe it never cured 
> all the way but the skin is now thick enough that I can't tell the 
> difference, its probably 1/8" thick. I tried scraping at it once, that was 
> also a mistake. Fortunately what was left leveled out (some) after I left it 
> alone.
>
> -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[MG via Mercedes]

I looked at POR-15 tank sealant and thought about 
it but the leak is due to a crack where a dent 
slightly folded the metal. I don't think there are 
any pin holes in the tank, or at least I hope not.


Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:
My father used to fix things like this with solder. Use a soldering iron 
rather than a torch. Much safer without flame.
I wonder also about getting the liquid sealing stuff that you pour into 
the tank and slosh around in case there are more pin holes about to appear.

Didn't we have a thread on that not too long ago?

Randy


On 21/10/2019 8:58 AM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
Found a small leak in my fuel tank on the 83 300TD yesterday. Called 
just now and MB wants over a thousand for a new one. Looks like I will 
be draining it and brazing the hole in the not too distant future 
unless I can find a good one pretty soon in a local U-pull.


MG

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[MG via Mercedes]

Now there's an idea.

Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
just use the putty patch. At least until Floyd scraps his td to provide 
you a tank.


70s datSUN peekups were notorious for leaking gas tanks.   I patched 
mine with Fruehauf aluminum, sheet metal screws and a generous dosage of 
some sealant in a caulking tube.  (sorry, I forgot what it was.   It 
held for years, probably until the truck was crushed.  they rusted above 
the seam, and mine was rusted out 18-24 inches, and at places inch size 
holes.


MG via Mercedes wrote on 10/21/19 10:04 AM:

May give that a try or some of that two part putty. Just for a temp fix.



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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 I've done that on my Cub Cadet tractors. Both of them had tiny pinholes in the 
very bottom of the tank. I used POR15 gas tank sealer though I suspect any of 
the magic tank sealers would work adequately.
I did screw up one of the tanks and put way too much, it pooled in the 
bottom and took months to cure all the way through. Or maybe it never cured all 
the way but the skin is now thick enough that I can't tell the difference, its 
probably 1/8" thick. I tried scraping at it once, that was also a mistake. 
Fortunately what was left leveled out (some) after I left it alone.

-Curt

On Monday, October 21, 2019, 12:09:17 PM EDT, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 My father used to fix things like this with solder. Use a soldering iron 
rather than a torch. Much safer without flame.
I wonder also about getting the liquid sealing stuff that you pour into 
the tank and slosh around in case there are more pin holes about to appear.
Didn't we have a thread on that not too long ago?

Randy


On 21/10/2019 8:58 AM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
> Found a small leak in my fuel tank on the 83 300TD yesterday. Called 
> just now and MB wants over a thousand for a new one. Looks like I will 
> be draining it and brazing the hole in the not too distant future 
> unless I can find a good one pretty soon in a local U-pull.
>
> MG
>
> ___ 


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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

My father used to fix things like this with solder. Use a soldering iron 
rather than a torch. Much safer without flame.
I wonder also about getting the liquid sealing stuff that you pour into 
the tank and slosh around in case there are more pin holes about to appear.

Didn't we have a thread on that not too long ago?

Randy


On 21/10/2019 8:58 AM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
Found a small leak in my fuel tank on the 83 300TD yesterday. Called 
just now and MB wants over a thousand for a new one. Looks like I will 
be draining it and brazing the hole in the not too distant future 
unless I can find a good one pretty soon in a local U-pull.


MG

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

It lacked the NBC(BS) rocket engines to majikly ignite the gas to make 
"news"


Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote on 10/21/19 9:32 AM:
I had a pinhole in the bottom of the tank on my 75 Grand Prix back in 
college, I stopped by a shop one day and an old mech told me to rub a 
bar of soap on the hole to stop the leak, deal with it later.  I'd do 
that every now and then and it worked for quite awhile.  I finally 
took it to a shop and they took it off and drained it, etc. and 
soldered over the hole, or brazed it or something.  Whatever it was 
worked.


Reminds of an experience when I was about 14 or so.  Was riding my 
bike on a fairly busy street, cars going by.  I hear this godawful 
noise and look over and see this big gas tank skidding along the 
street behind this old station wagon.  Gas sloshing out all over the 
street, I'm thinking that thing is gonna spark and blow the hell out 
of me.  The old wagon coasts to a stop, the gas tank stops with no 
further drama, the woman gets out of the car and says, "I think I lost 
my gas tank."  Uh yeah looks like it.  I felt bad for her but it was 
pretty funny, all things considered.


--FT




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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

just use the putty patch. At least until Floyd scraps his td to provide 
you a tank.


70s datSUN peekups were notorious for leaking gas tanks.   I patched 
mine with Fruehauf aluminum, sheet metal screws and a generous dosage of 
some sealant in a caulking tube.  (sorry, I forgot what it was.   It 
held for years, probably until the truck was crushed.  they rusted above 
the seam, and mine was rusted out 18-24 inches, and at places inch size 
holes.


MG via Mercedes wrote on 10/21/19 10:04 AM:

May give that a try or some of that two part putty. Just for a temp fix.



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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

JB water weld works great 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 21, 2019, at 9:32 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had a pinhole in the bottom of the tank on my 75 Grand Prix back in 
> college, I stopped by a shop one day and an old mech told me to rub a bar of 
> soap on the hole to stop the leak, deal with it later.  I'd do that every now 
> and then and it worked for quite awhile.  I finally took it to a shop and 
> they took it off and drained it, etc. and soldered over the hole, or brazed 
> it or something.  Whatever it was worked.
> 
> Reminds of an experience when I was about 14 or so.  Was riding my bike on a 
> fairly busy street, cars going by.  I hear this godawful noise and look over 
> and see this big gas tank skidding along the street behind this old station 
> wagon.  Gas sloshing out all over the street, I'm thinking that thing is 
> gonna spark and blow the hell out of me.  The old wagon coasts to a stop, the 
> gas tank stops with no further drama, the woman gets out of the car and says, 
> "I think I lost my gas tank."  Uh yeah looks like it.  I felt bad for her but 
> it was pretty funny, all things considered.
> 
> --FT
> 
>> On 10/21/19 9:58 AM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
>> Found a small leak in my fuel tank on the 83 300TD yesterday. Called just 
>> now and MB wants over a thousand for a new one. Looks like I will be 
>> draining it and brazing the hole in the not too distant future unless I can 
>> find a good one pretty soon in a local U-pull.
>> 
>> MG
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> -- 
> --FT
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Try contacting Tom  at the Classic Center - ask for an MBCA discount
thomas.han...@mbusa.com

On Mon, Oct 21, 2019 at 10:33 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I had a pinhole in the bottom of the tank on my 75 Grand Prix back in
> college, I stopped by a shop one day and an old mech told me to rub a
> bar of soap on the hole to stop the leak, deal with it later.  I'd do
> that every now and then and it worked for quite awhile.  I finally took
> it to a shop and they took it off and drained it, etc. and soldered over
> the hole, or brazed it or something.  Whatever it was worked.
>
> Reminds of an experience when I was about 14 or so.  Was riding my bike
> on a fairly busy street, cars going by.  I hear this godawful noise and
> look over and see this big gas tank skidding along the street behind
> this old station wagon.  Gas sloshing out all over the street, I'm
> thinking that thing is gonna spark and blow the hell out of me.  The old
> wagon coasts to a stop, the gas tank stops with no further drama, the
> woman gets out of the car and says, "I think I lost my gas tank."  Uh
> yeah looks like it.  I felt bad for her but it was pretty funny, all
> things considered.
>
> --FT
>
> On 10/21/19 9:58 AM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
> > Found a small leak in my fuel tank on the 83 300TD yesterday. Called
> > just now and MB wants over a thousand for a new one. Looks like I will
> > be draining it and brazing the hole in the not too distant future
> > unless I can find a good one pretty soon in a local U-pull.
> >
> > MG
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
> --
> --FT
>
>
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>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[MG via Mercedes]

May give that a try or some of that two part 
putty. Just for a temp fix.


Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
I had a pinhole in the bottom of the tank on my 75 Grand Prix back in 
college, I stopped by a shop one day and an old mech told me to rub a 
bar of soap on the hole to stop the leak, deal with it later.  I'd do 
that every now and then and it worked for quite awhile.  I finally took 
it to a shop and they took it off and drained it, etc. and soldered over 
the hole, or brazed it or something.  Whatever it was worked.


Reminds of an experience when I was about 14 or so.  Was riding my bike 
on a fairly busy street, cars going by.  I hear this godawful noise and 
look over and see this big gas tank skidding along the street behind 
this old station wagon.  Gas sloshing out all over the street, I'm 
thinking that thing is gonna spark and blow the hell out of me.  The old 
wagon coasts to a stop, the gas tank stops with no further drama, the 
woman gets out of the car and says, "I think I lost my gas tank."  Uh 
yeah looks like it.  I felt bad for her but it was pretty funny, all 
things considered.


--FT

On 10/21/19 9:58 AM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
Found a small leak in my fuel tank on the 83 300TD yesterday. Called 
just now and MB wants over a thousand for a new one. Looks like I will 
be draining it and brazing the hole in the not too distant future 
unless I can find a good one pretty soon in a local U-pull.


MG

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

I had a pinhole in the bottom of the tank on my 75 Grand Prix back in 
college, I stopped by a shop one day and an old mech told me to rub a 
bar of soap on the hole to stop the leak, deal with it later.  I'd do 
that every now and then and it worked for quite awhile.  I finally took 
it to a shop and they took it off and drained it, etc. and soldered over 
the hole, or brazed it or something.  Whatever it was worked.


Reminds of an experience when I was about 14 or so.  Was riding my bike 
on a fairly busy street, cars going by.  I hear this godawful noise and 
look over and see this big gas tank skidding along the street behind 
this old station wagon.  Gas sloshing out all over the street, I'm 
thinking that thing is gonna spark and blow the hell out of me.  The old 
wagon coasts to a stop, the gas tank stops with no further drama, the 
woman gets out of the car and says, "I think I lost my gas tank."  Uh 
yeah looks like it.  I felt bad for her but it was pretty funny, all 
things considered.


--FT

On 10/21/19 9:58 AM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
Found a small leak in my fuel tank on the 83 300TD yesterday. Called 
just now and MB wants over a thousand for a new one. Looks like I will 
be draining it and brazing the hole in the not too distant future 
unless I can find a good one pretty soon in a local U-pull.


MG

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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> unless I can find a good [tank] pretty soon in a local U-pull.

Here the fuel tanks are all destroyed, via drilling them full of holes.

-- Jim


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[MBZ] Fuel tank

[MG via Mercedes]

Found a small leak in my fuel tank on the 83 300TD 
yesterday. Called just now and MB wants over a 
thousand for a new one. Looks like I will be 
draining it and brazing the hole in the not too 
distant future unless I can find a good one pretty 
soon in a local U-pull.


MG

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank polishing, wasFuel tank de-rusting

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 Gasoline would prevent rust but you'd need to keep the tank full almost 
always, diesel would do a better job at clinging to the walls of the tank...

-Curt

On Friday, May 3, 2019, 2:46:25 PM EDT, fmiser via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 > G wrote:

> The interior walls of the tank will be bare after using vinegar,
> so don't let the tank set empty. Moisture in atmosphere will
> make it rust fast after vinegar cleaning, so after it is well
> drained, close it up and fill with fuel.

He did say this was for gasoline/petrol.  I suspect diesel will do
a good job of protecting from rust.  Is that true of gasoline
too?  I would think that for his tank some sort of interior
coating would be good.  But I sure don't know!

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank polishing, wasFuel tank de-rusting

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> G wrote:

> The interior walls of the tank will be bare after using vinegar,
> so don't let the tank set empty. Moisture in atmosphere will
> make it rust fast after vinegar cleaning, so after it is well
> drained, close it up and fill with fuel.

He did say this was for gasoline/petrol.  I suspect diesel will do
a good job of protecting from rust.  Is that true of gasoline
too?  I would think that for his tank some sort of interior
coating would be good.  But I sure don't know!

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank polishing, wasFuel tank de-rusting

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 I've been using citric acid instead of vinegar. You can buy citric acid 
crystals for like 5#/$20. It takes like 3 tablespoons of the crystals to make a 
gallon of acid as strong or stronger than food quality vinegar. I like it 
because its easy to keep, 5# of citric acid fits in a gallon ziplock bag...
-Curt

On Friday, May 3, 2019, 1:16:22 PM EDT, G Mann via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 If you have rust, drain the fuel from the tank, and fill it with vinegar.
Gallons of vinegar are cheap. Fill the tank full up. Let it set for several
days. Drain the vinegar and look at what came out. You will have very rusty
vinegar. Refill with fresh vinegar for second soak and clean. let set for
couple days, drain the tank. You should have much cleaner less rusty
vinegar, or if first fill got the rust out, nearly clean or clean.

The interior walls of the tank will be bare after using vinegar, so don't
let the tank set empty. Moisture in atmosphere will make it rust fast after
vinegar cleaning, so after it is well drained, close it up and fill with
fuel.

Cheap way to get it done that works. I've used it a number of times.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 10:07 AM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> The fuel polisher guy claims that his system will remove flaking rust from
> the surface and leave the metal smooth and clean but not necessarily bright
> clean bare metal in areas where there was corrosion. The cost is $300 which
> is high but it eliminates the hassle of my removing the tank and spending
> days cleaning and coating it. Also the risk of the coating peeling off
> scares me. Not sure what to do at this point.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 3, 2019, at 12:26 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Dang, can’t believe I didn’t catch this...
> >
> > We used to do this in the generator business.
> >
> > Say you have a generator on site at your data center with a 1,000 gallon
> fuel tank. That fuel sits for a long, long time, just getting replenished a
> few times a year when it gets topped off.
> >
> > Crud, water, possibly even the beginning of algae is in the tank. We
> bring our big pumps and filter system out. We tap into the supply and
> return lines and proceed to circulate all of the fuel through the system,
> cleaning, treating, drying and filtering (polishing) it.
> >
> > Does nothing to your tank, just makes sure your fuel is clean and crud
> free.
> >
> > And you’re also a bit poorer after the bill. However, I have also seen
> what happens in a 1,000 (and larger) when the fuel gets contaminated or you
> get an algae bloom. Far more catastrophic and expensive to resolve.
> >
> > -D
> >
> >> On May 3, 2019, at 11:21 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> What I know of it, in the context of using it for diesel fuel, the
> intent
> >> is to improve the quality of the fuel, any cleaning of the tank is a
> >> bonus.  Basically you just run the fuel out, through a filter / water
> trap,
> >> and back into the tank.
> >> -
> >> Max
> >> Charleston SC
> >>
> >>
> >> On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Anyone have any experience with fuel tank polishing? It’s used in the
> >>> marine industry as r/r of those tanks is difficult. They use high
> pressure
> >>> to push fuel into the tank or use existing fuel in tank and filter it
> while
> >>> blowing off any crud, flaking rust etc from the surface. Advantage is
> tank
> >>> remains in situ and job done in 2 hours- they come to you!
> Disadvantage is
> >>> inside of tank is not protected and the process is not cheap.
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
>  On May 1, 2019, at 9:16 PM, Dwight Giles 
> wrote:
> 
>  Ok yes,i recall that. If you bring that to  Q we will make you
> >>> chancellor of Germany
> 
>  Dwight Giles Jr.
>  Wickford RI
> 
> > On Wed, May 1, 2019, 9:09 PM Dimitri Seretakis  >
> >>> wrote:
> > Yes 300 little d. Adenauers came as 300, 300b, 300c and finally in
> the
> >>> last years 300d.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On May 1, 2019, at 9:06 PM, Dwight Giles 
> >>> wrote:
> >>
> >> Oh ok. I . didn't realize the Adenauer was,a 300d. But  it is still
> >>> a,gasser. That would break open the Q
> >>
> >> Dwight Giles Jr.
> >> Wickford RI
> >>
> >>> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:51 PM Dimitri Seretakis <
> dsereta...@yahoo.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>> Yes the Adenauer.
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
>  On May 1, 2019, at 8:25 PM, Dwight Giles 
> >>> wrote:
> 
>  Did I see this one?
> 
>  Dwight Giles Jr.
>  Wickford RI
> 
> > On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:13 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> > I didn’t know that radiator shops do this! Something to consider.
> >>> This is for my 

Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank polishing, wasFuel tank de-rusting

[G Mann via Mercedes]

If you have rust, drain the fuel from the tank, and fill it with vinegar.
Gallons of vinegar are cheap. Fill the tank full up. Let it set for several
days. Drain the vinegar and look at what came out. You will have very rusty
vinegar. Refill with fresh vinegar for second soak and clean. let set for
couple days, drain the tank. You should have much cleaner less rusty
vinegar, or if first fill got the rust out, nearly clean or clean.

The interior walls of the tank will be bare after using vinegar, so don't
let the tank set empty. Moisture in atmosphere will make it rust fast after
vinegar cleaning, so after it is well drained, close it up and fill with
fuel.

Cheap way to get it done that works. I've used it a number of times.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 10:07 AM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> The fuel polisher guy claims that his system will remove flaking rust from
> the surface and leave the metal smooth and clean but not necessarily bright
> clean bare metal in areas where there was corrosion. The cost is $300 which
> is high but it eliminates the hassle of my removing the tank and spending
> days cleaning and coating it. Also the risk of the coating peeling off
> scares me. Not sure what to do at this point.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 3, 2019, at 12:26 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Dang, can’t believe I didn’t catch this...
> >
> > We used to do this in the generator business.
> >
> > Say you have a generator on site at your data center with a 1,000 gallon
> fuel tank. That fuel sits for a long, long time, just getting replenished a
> few times a year when it gets topped off.
> >
> > Crud, water, possibly even the beginning of algae is in the tank. We
> bring our big pumps and filter system out. We tap into the supply and
> return lines and proceed to circulate all of the fuel through the system,
> cleaning, treating, drying and filtering (polishing) it.
> >
> > Does nothing to your tank, just makes sure your fuel is clean and crud
> free.
> >
> > And you’re also a bit poorer after the bill. However, I have also seen
> what happens in a 1,000 (and larger) when the fuel gets contaminated or you
> get an algae bloom. Far more catastrophic and expensive to resolve.
> >
> > -D
> >
> >> On May 3, 2019, at 11:21 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> What I know of it, in the context of using it for diesel fuel, the
> intent
> >> is to improve the quality of the fuel, any cleaning of the tank is a
> >> bonus.  Basically you just run the fuel out, through a filter / water
> trap,
> >> and back into the tank.
> >> -
> >> Max
> >> Charleston SC
> >>
> >>
> >> On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Anyone have any experience with fuel tank polishing? It’s used in the
> >>> marine industry as r/r of those tanks is difficult. They use high
> pressure
> >>> to push fuel into the tank or use existing fuel in tank and filter it
> while
> >>> blowing off any crud, flaking rust etc from the surface. Advantage is
> tank
> >>> remains in situ and job done in 2 hours- they come to you!
> Disadvantage is
> >>> inside of tank is not protected and the process is not cheap.
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
>  On May 1, 2019, at 9:16 PM, Dwight Giles 
> wrote:
> 
>  Ok yes,i recall that. If you bring that to  Q we will make you
> >>> chancellor of Germany
> 
>  Dwight Giles Jr.
>  Wickford RI
> 
> > On Wed, May 1, 2019, 9:09 PM Dimitri Seretakis  >
> >>> wrote:
> > Yes 300 little d. Adenauers came as 300, 300b, 300c and finally in
> the
> >>> last years 300d.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On May 1, 2019, at 9:06 PM, Dwight Giles 
> >>> wrote:
> >>
> >> Oh ok. I . didn't realize the Adenauer was,a 300d. But  it is still
> >>> a,gasser. That would break open the Q
> >>
> >> Dwight Giles Jr.
> >> Wickford RI
> >>
> >>> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:51 PM Dimitri Seretakis <
> dsereta...@yahoo.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>> Yes the Adenauer.
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
>  On May 1, 2019, at 8:25 PM, Dwight Giles 
> >>> wrote:
> 
>  Did I see this one?
> 
>  Dwight Giles Jr.
>  Wickford RI
> 
> > On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:13 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> > I didn’t know that radiator shops do this! Something to consider.
> >>> This is for my 1958 300d which I really want to get to the Q sometime!
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On May 1, 2019, at 7:45 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubsc

Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank polishing, wasFuel tank de-rusting

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

The fuel polisher guy claims that his system will remove flaking rust from the 
surface and leave the metal smooth and clean but not necessarily bright clean 
bare metal in areas where there was corrosion. The cost is $300 which is high 
but it eliminates the hassle of my removing the tank and spending days cleaning 
and coating it. Also the risk of the coating peeling off scares me. Not sure 
what to do at this point.
Sent from my iPhone

> On May 3, 2019, at 12:26 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Dang, can’t believe I didn’t catch this...
> 
> We used to do this in the generator business.
> 
> Say you have a generator on site at your data center with a 1,000 gallon fuel 
> tank. That fuel sits for a long, long time, just getting replenished a few 
> times a year when it gets topped off.
> 
> Crud, water, possibly even the beginning of algae is in the tank. We bring 
> our big pumps and filter system out. We tap into the supply and return lines 
> and proceed to circulate all of the fuel through the system, cleaning, 
> treating, drying and filtering (polishing) it.
> 
> Does nothing to your tank, just makes sure your fuel is clean and crud free.
> 
> And you’re also a bit poorer after the bill. However, I have also seen what 
> happens in a 1,000 (and larger) when the fuel gets contaminated or you get an 
> algae bloom. Far more catastrophic and expensive to resolve.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On May 3, 2019, at 11:21 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> What I know of it, in the context of using it for diesel fuel, the intent
>> is to improve the quality of the fuel, any cleaning of the tank is a
>> bonus.  Basically you just run the fuel out, through a filter / water trap,
>> and back into the tank.
>> -
>> Max
>> Charleston SC
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Anyone have any experience with fuel tank polishing? It’s used in the
>>> marine industry as r/r of those tanks is difficult. They use high pressure
>>> to push fuel into the tank or use existing fuel in tank and filter it while
>>> blowing off any crud, flaking rust etc from the surface. Advantage is tank
>>> remains in situ and job done in 2 hours- they come to you! Disadvantage is
>>> inside of tank is not protected and the process is not cheap.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On May 1, 2019, at 9:16 PM, Dwight Giles  wrote:
 
 Ok yes,i recall that. If you bring that to  Q we will make you
>>> chancellor of Germany
 
 Dwight Giles Jr.
 Wickford RI
 
> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 9:09 PM Dimitri Seretakis 
>>> wrote:
> Yes 300 little d. Adenauers came as 300, 300b, 300c and finally in the
>>> last years 300d.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 1, 2019, at 9:06 PM, Dwight Giles 
>>> wrote:
>> 
>> Oh ok. I . didn't realize the Adenauer was,a 300d. But  it is still
>>> a,gasser. That would break open the Q
>> 
>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>> Wickford RI
>> 
>>> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:51 PM Dimitri Seretakis 
>>> wrote:
>>> Yes the Adenauer.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On May 1, 2019, at 8:25 PM, Dwight Giles 
>>> wrote:
 
 Did I see this one?
 
 Dwight Giles Jr.
 Wickford RI
 
> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:13 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I didn’t know that radiator shops do this! Something to consider.
>>> This is for my 1958 300d which I really want to get to the Q sometime!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 1, 2019, at 7:45 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank polishing, wasFuel tank de-rusting

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Dang, can’t believe I didn’t catch this...

We used to do this in the generator business.

Say you have a generator on site at your data center with a 1,000 gallon fuel 
tank. That fuel sits for a long, long time, just getting replenished a few 
times a year when it gets topped off.

Crud, water, possibly even the beginning of algae is in the tank. We bring our 
big pumps and filter system out. We tap into the supply and return lines and 
proceed to circulate all of the fuel through the system, cleaning, treating, 
drying and filtering (polishing) it.

Does nothing to your tank, just makes sure your fuel is clean and crud free.

And you’re also a bit poorer after the bill. However, I have also seen what 
happens in a 1,000 (and larger) when the fuel gets contaminated or you get an 
algae bloom. Far more catastrophic and expensive to resolve.

-D

> On May 3, 2019, at 11:21 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> What I know of it, in the context of using it for diesel fuel, the intent
> is to improve the quality of the fuel, any cleaning of the tank is a
> bonus.  Basically you just run the fuel out, through a filter / water trap,
> and back into the tank.
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> 
> On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> Anyone have any experience with fuel tank polishing? It’s used in the
>> marine industry as r/r of those tanks is difficult. They use high pressure
>> to push fuel into the tank or use existing fuel in tank and filter it while
>> blowing off any crud, flaking rust etc from the surface. Advantage is tank
>> remains in situ and job done in 2 hours- they come to you! Disadvantage is
>> inside of tank is not protected and the process is not cheap.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 1, 2019, at 9:16 PM, Dwight Giles  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Ok yes,i recall that. If you bring that to  Q we will make you
>> chancellor of Germany
>>> 
>>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>>> Wickford RI
>>> 
 On Wed, May 1, 2019, 9:09 PM Dimitri Seretakis 
>> wrote:
 Yes 300 little d. Adenauers came as 300, 300b, 300c and finally in the
>> last years 300d.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On May 1, 2019, at 9:06 PM, Dwight Giles 
>> wrote:
> 
> Oh ok. I . didn't realize the Adenauer was,a 300d. But  it is still
>> a,gasser. That would break open the Q
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
> 
>> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:51 PM Dimitri Seretakis 
>> wrote:
>> Yes the Adenauer.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 1, 2019, at 8:25 PM, Dwight Giles 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Did I see this one?
>>> 
>>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>>> Wickford RI
>>> 
 On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:13 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 I didn’t know that radiator shops do this! Something to consider.
>> This is for my 1958 300d which I really want to get to the Q sometime!
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On May 1, 2019, at 7:45 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank polishing, wasFuel tank de-rusting

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

What I know of it, in the context of using it for diesel fuel, the intent
is to improve the quality of the fuel, any cleaning of the tank is a
bonus.  Basically you just run the fuel out, through a filter / water trap,
and back into the tank.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Anyone have any experience with fuel tank polishing? It’s used in the
> marine industry as r/r of those tanks is difficult. They use high pressure
> to push fuel into the tank or use existing fuel in tank and filter it while
> blowing off any crud, flaking rust etc from the surface. Advantage is tank
> remains in situ and job done in 2 hours- they come to you! Disadvantage is
> inside of tank is not protected and the process is not cheap.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 1, 2019, at 9:16 PM, Dwight Giles  wrote:
> >
> > Ok yes,i recall that. If you bring that to  Q we will make you
> chancellor of Germany
> >
> > Dwight Giles Jr.
> > Wickford RI
> >
> >> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 9:09 PM Dimitri Seretakis 
> wrote:
> >> Yes 300 little d. Adenauers came as 300, 300b, 300c and finally in the
> last years 300d.
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On May 1, 2019, at 9:06 PM, Dwight Giles 
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Oh ok. I . didn't realize the Adenauer was,a 300d. But  it is still
> a,gasser. That would break open the Q
> >>>
> >>> Dwight Giles Jr.
> >>> Wickford RI
> >>>
>  On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:51 PM Dimitri Seretakis 
> wrote:
>  Yes the Adenauer.
> 
>  Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On May 1, 2019, at 8:25 PM, Dwight Giles 
> wrote:
> >
> > Did I see this one?
> >
> > Dwight Giles Jr.
> > Wickford RI
> >
> >> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:13 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >> I didn’t know that radiator shops do this! Something to consider.
> This is for my 1958 300d which I really want to get to the Q sometime!
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >> > On May 1, 2019, at 7:45 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > I believe this is a service that many radiator shops offer, isn’t
> it? Something I think I would rather pay someone else to do so there’s a
> neck to wring if it goes south….
> >> >
> >> > -D
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> On May 1, 2019, at 7:38 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I paid a guy to do the tank on my Farmall, I think it was like
> $60, they steam cleaned the tank and sealed it, took a couple days. Has
> made owning a 60+ year old tractor MUCH easier.I didn't want to do that one
> myself because the tank was so heavy even empty.
> >> >>
> >> >> -Curt
> >> >>
> >> >>   On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 7:10:09 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis <
> dsereta...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Yes my biggest concern is that the coating fails leading to a
> mess. This is for a gas fuel tank.
> >> >>
> >> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> >>
> >> >>> On May 1, 2019, at 6:23 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> I've de-rusted many a lantern, the process would be roughly the
> same. Use an acid to remove the rust, something like a chain inside that
> you can slosh around will help knock off the big rust. Coat it later on.
> The POR-15 chemicals are not optional, use the whole bottle and use their
> instructions exactly. I have a snowmobile with a failed coating because I
> didn't get the tank clean enough...
> >> >>> Uncoated would be fine if you always kept the tank full of
> fuel. Actually I'd guess on a diesel its probably not as critical since the
> inside of the tank would stay oily for some time after the level dropped.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> -Curt
> >> >>>
> >> >>>On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 5:42:51 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis
> via Mercedes  wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel
> tank? Is coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >> >>>
> >> >>> ___
> >> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> >>>
> >> >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >> >>>
> >> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>> ___
> >> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> >>>
> >> >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >> >>>
> >> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >> >>>
> >> >>
> >> >> ___
> >> >> http:

Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank polishing, wasFuel tank de-rusting

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

Anyone have any experience with fuel tank polishing? It’s used in the marine 
industry as r/r of those tanks is difficult. They use high pressure to push 
fuel into the tank or use existing fuel in tank and filter it while blowing off 
any crud, flaking rust etc from the surface. Advantage is tank remains in situ 
and job done in 2 hours- they come to you! Disadvantage is inside of tank is 
not protected and the process is not cheap.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2019, at 9:16 PM, Dwight Giles  wrote:
> 
> Ok yes,i recall that. If you bring that to  Q we will make you chancellor of 
> Germany
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
> 
>> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 9:09 PM Dimitri Seretakis  wrote:
>> Yes 300 little d. Adenauers came as 300, 300b, 300c and finally in the last 
>> years 300d.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 1, 2019, at 9:06 PM, Dwight Giles  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Oh ok. I . didn't realize the Adenauer was,a 300d. But  it is still 
>>> a,gasser. That would break open the Q
>>> 
>>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>>> Wickford RI
>>> 
 On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:51 PM Dimitri Seretakis  
 wrote:
 Yes the Adenauer.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On May 1, 2019, at 8:25 PM, Dwight Giles  wrote:
> 
> Did I see this one?
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
> 
>> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 8:13 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> I didn’t know that radiator shops do this! Something to consider. This 
>> is for my 1958 300d which I really want to get to the Q sometime!
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> > On May 1, 2019, at 7:45 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>> >  wrote:
>> > 
>> > I believe this is a service that many radiator shops offer, isn’t it? 
>> > Something I think I would rather pay someone else to do so there’s a 
>> > neck to wring if it goes south….
>> > 
>> > -D
>> > 
>> > 
>> >> On May 1, 2019, at 7:38 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>> >>  wrote:
>> >> 
>> >> I paid a guy to do the tank on my Farmall, I think it was like $60, 
>> >> they steam cleaned the tank and sealed it, took a couple days. Has 
>> >> made owning a 60+ year old tractor MUCH easier.I didn't want to do 
>> >> that one myself because the tank was so heavy even empty.
>> >> 
>> >> -Curt
>> >> 
>> >>   On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 7:10:09 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis 
>> >>  wrote:  
>> >> 
>> >> Yes my biggest concern is that the coating fails leading to a mess. 
>> >> This is for a gas fuel tank. 
>> >> 
>> >> Sent from my iPhone
>> >> 
>> >>> On May 1, 2019, at 6:23 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>> >>>  wrote:
>> >>> 
>> >>> I've de-rusted many a lantern, the process would be roughly the 
>> >>> same. Use an acid to remove the rust, something like a chain inside 
>> >>> that you can slosh around will help knock off the big rust. Coat it 
>> >>> later on. The POR-15 chemicals are not optional, use the whole 
>> >>> bottle and use their instructions exactly. I have a snowmobile with 
>> >>> a failed coating because I didn't get the tank clean enough...
>> >>> Uncoated would be fine if you always kept the tank full of fuel. 
>> >>> Actually I'd guess on a diesel its probably not as critical since 
>> >>> the inside of the tank would stay oily for some time after the level 
>> >>> dropped.
>> >>> 
>> >>> -Curt
>> >>> 
>> >>>On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 5:42:51 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via 
>> >>> Mercedes  wrote:  
>> >>> 
>> >>> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel 
>> >>> tank? Is coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I 
>> >>> think.
>> >>> 
>> >>> Sent from my iPhone
>> >>> 
>> >>> ___
>> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> >>> 
>> >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> >>> 
>> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>> >>> 
>> >>> 
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>> >> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

Ok looked up renu. No dealers near me! 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2019, at 8:52 PM, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> What’s gas tank renu process?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 1, 2019, at 8:29 PM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> It’s not cheap, but the gas tank renu process really is good.  My ponton
>> tank was done by them.
>> 
>> Jaime
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 5:42 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is
>>> coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>> 
>>> --
>> Jaime Kopchinski
>> http://www.jaimekop.com/
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>> 
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>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

What’s gas tank renu process?

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2019, at 8:29 PM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> It’s not cheap, but the gas tank renu process really is good.  My ponton
> tank was done by them.
> 
> Jaime
> 
> 
> On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 5:42 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is
>> coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>> 
>> --
> Jaime Kopchinski
> http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes]

It’s not cheap, but the gas tank renu process really is good.  My ponton
tank was done by them.

Jaime


On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 5:42 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is
> coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
> --
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 It was in fact a radiator shop I took mine to now that I think of it.

-Curt

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 8:13:27 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 I didn’t know that radiator shops do this! Something to consider. This is for 
my 1958 300d which I really want to get to the Q sometime!

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2019, at 7:45 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I believe this is a service that many radiator shops offer, isn’t it? 
> Something I think I would rather pay someone else to do so there’s a neck to 
> wring if it goes south….
> 
> -D
> 
> 
>> On May 1, 2019, at 7:38 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I paid a guy to do the tank on my Farmall, I think it was like $60, they 
>> steam cleaned the tank and sealed it, took a couple days. Has made owning a 
>> 60+ year old tractor MUCH easier.I didn't want to do that one myself because 
>> the tank was so heavy even empty.
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>>  On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 7:10:09 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis 
>> wrote:  
>> 
>> Yes my biggest concern is that the coating fails leading to a mess. This is 
>> for a gas fuel tank. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 1, 2019, at 6:23 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I've de-rusted many a lantern, the process would be roughly the same. Use 
>>> an acid to remove the rust, something like a chain inside that you can 
>>> slosh around will help knock off the big rust. Coat it later on. The POR-15 
>>> chemicals are not optional, use the whole bottle and use their instructions 
>>> exactly. I have a snowmobile with a failed coating because I didn't get the 
>>> tank clean enough...
>>> Uncoated would be fine if you always kept the tank full of fuel. Actually 
>>> I'd guess on a diesel its probably not as critical since the inside of the 
>>> tank would stay oily for some time after the level dropped.
>>> 
>>> -Curt
>>> 
>>>    On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 5:42:51 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via 
>>>Mercedes  wrote:  
>>> 
>>> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is 
>>> coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
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>>> 
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>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>> 
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>> 
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>> 
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> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

I didn’t know that radiator shops do this! Something to consider. This is for 
my 1958 300d which I really want to get to the Q sometime!

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2019, at 7:45 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I believe this is a service that many radiator shops offer, isn’t it? 
> Something I think I would rather pay someone else to do so there’s a neck to 
> wring if it goes south….
> 
> -D
> 
> 
>> On May 1, 2019, at 7:38 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I paid a guy to do the tank on my Farmall, I think it was like $60, they 
>> steam cleaned the tank and sealed it, took a couple days. Has made owning a 
>> 60+ year old tractor MUCH easier.I didn't want to do that one myself because 
>> the tank was so heavy even empty.
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>>   On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 7:10:09 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis 
>>  wrote:  
>> 
>> Yes my biggest concern is that the coating fails leading to a mess. This is 
>> for a gas fuel tank. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 1, 2019, at 6:23 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I've de-rusted many a lantern, the process would be roughly the same. Use 
>>> an acid to remove the rust, something like a chain inside that you can 
>>> slosh around will help knock off the big rust. Coat it later on. The POR-15 
>>> chemicals are not optional, use the whole bottle and use their instructions 
>>> exactly. I have a snowmobile with a failed coating because I didn't get the 
>>> tank clean enough...
>>> Uncoated would be fine if you always kept the tank full of fuel. Actually 
>>> I'd guess on a diesel its probably not as critical since the inside of the 
>>> tank would stay oily for some time after the level dropped.
>>> 
>>> -Curt
>>> 
>>>On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 5:42:51 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via 
>>> Mercedes  wrote:  
>>> 
>>> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is 
>>> coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
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>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

I believe this is a service that many radiator shops offer, isn’t it? Something 
I think I would rather pay someone else to do so there’s a neck to wring if it 
goes south….

-D


> On May 1, 2019, at 7:38 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I paid a guy to do the tank on my Farmall, I think it was like $60, they 
> steam cleaned the tank and sealed it, took a couple days. Has made owning a 
> 60+ year old tractor MUCH easier.I didn't want to do that one myself because 
> the tank was so heavy even empty.
> 
> -Curt
> 
>On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 7:10:09 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis 
>  wrote:  
> 
> Yes my biggest concern is that the coating fails leading to a mess. This is 
> for a gas fuel tank. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 1, 2019, at 6:23 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I've de-rusted many a lantern, the process would be roughly the same. Use an 
>> acid to remove the rust, something like a chain inside that you can slosh 
>> around will help knock off the big rust. Coat it later on. The POR-15 
>> chemicals are not optional, use the whole bottle and use their instructions 
>> exactly. I have a snowmobile with a failed coating because I didn't get the 
>> tank clean enough...
>> Uncoated would be fine if you always kept the tank full of fuel. Actually 
>> I'd guess on a diesel its probably not as critical since the inside of the 
>> tank would stay oily for some time after the level dropped.
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>> On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 5:42:51 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via 
>> Mercedes  wrote:  
>> 
>> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is 
>> coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 I paid a guy to do the tank on my Farmall, I think it was like $60, they steam 
cleaned the tank and sealed it, took a couple days. Has made owning a 60+ year 
old tractor MUCH easier.I didn't want to do that one myself because the tank 
was so heavy even empty.

-Curt

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 7:10:09 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis 
 wrote:  
 
 Yes my biggest concern is that the coating fails leading to a mess. This is 
for a gas fuel tank. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2019, at 6:23 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I've de-rusted many a lantern, the process would be roughly the same. Use an 
> acid to remove the rust, something like a chain inside that you can slosh 
> around will help knock off the big rust. Coat it later on. The POR-15 
> chemicals are not optional, use the whole bottle and use their instructions 
> exactly. I have a snowmobile with a failed coating because I didn't get the 
> tank clean enough...
> Uncoated would be fine if you always kept the tank full of fuel. Actually I'd 
> guess on a diesel its probably not as critical since the inside of the tank 
> would stay oily for some time after the level dropped.
> 
> -Curt
> 
>    On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 5:42:51 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
> wrote:  
> 
> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is 
> coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

Yes my biggest concern is that the coating fails leading to a mess. This is for 
a gas fuel tank. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2019, at 6:23 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I've de-rusted many a lantern, the process would be roughly the same. Use an 
> acid to remove the rust, something like a chain inside that you can slosh 
> around will help knock off the big rust. Coat it later on. The POR-15 
> chemicals are not optional, use the whole bottle and use their instructions 
> exactly. I have a snowmobile with a failed coating because I didn't get the 
> tank clean enough...
> Uncoated would be fine if you always kept the tank full of fuel. Actually I'd 
> guess on a diesel its probably not as critical since the inside of the tank 
> would stay oily for some time after the level dropped.
> 
> -Curt
> 
>On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 5:42:51 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
>  wrote:  
> 
> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is 
> coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 I've de-rusted many a lantern, the process would be roughly the same. Use an 
acid to remove the rust, something like a chain inside that you can slosh 
around will help knock off the big rust. Coat it later on. The POR-15 chemicals 
are not optional, use the whole bottle and use their instructions exactly. I 
have a snowmobile with a failed coating because I didn't get the tank clean 
enough...
Uncoated would be fine if you always kept the tank full of fuel. Actually I'd 
guess on a diesel its probably not as critical since the inside of the tank 
would stay oily for some time after the level dropped.

-Curt

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019, 5:42:51 PM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is 
coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On May 1, 2019 at 5:42 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is 
> coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.

I've heard of guys dumping a gallon of peastone in a motorcycle tank and 
shaking it vigorously. But I can't shake a Mercedes tank with 5 gallons of 
gravel in it. Mount it in a big rotisserie and tumble it like a rock polisher?

Mitch.

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[MBZ] Fuel tank de-rusting

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

Does anyone have any experience de-rusting the inside of a fuel tank? Is 
coating it advisable? POR-15 has a kit which is pricey I think.

Sent from my iPhone

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[MBZ] Fuel tank SKT.

[Frederick Moir]

Alles.
I know that this info should be at my fingertips, but, CRS has, um.
What size is the fuel outlet/filter holder in the bottom of the tank of an '89 
260E? 40mm? 46mm?
Please reply in words of one, or perhaps two, sillybubbles.
 TIA
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[OK Don]

I had to buy a 1 13/16" socket to get the strainer out of the bottom of the
tank in the '78 SLC after it sat for two years. I had to grind down the
outside rim to get it thin enough to fit in the hole in the bottom of the
trunk to reach up to the strainer. IIRC, it was fairly tight as well.
Since it wasn't all that expensive, I had ordered a new strainer from Rusty,
and took that with me when I went shopping for the socket - made getting the
right size easy!

-- 
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[archer]

I'll report on what works the best.
Thanks,
Gerry
--

I don't think those would be large enough to wrap around the "nut" on 
the strainer.

--R

I have a couple that are used for tightening the nuts on the bottom of 
faucets.  I'll try them if the Beetle sockets don't work or aren't 
deep enough.

Thanks,
Gerry



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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[Rich Thomas]

I don't think those would be large enough to wrap around the "nut" on 
the strainer.


--R


I have a couple that are used for tightening the nuts on the bottom of 
faucets.  I'll try them if the Beetle sockets don't work or aren't 
deep enough.

Thanks,
Gerry
-


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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[archer]

From: "Rich Thomas" 

After I did my tank I remembered that I had some kind of plumbing
"sockets" somewhere -- they are like big sockets but just formed metal
tubing in various sizes, like from 1.5" to 2+"  Not sure how much torque
they could take or if they would fit in the space provided, but for a
quick job they might work if you could fit them in there.  I think I got
them from my dad, not sure where he found them, maybe a hardware store 
type item?  Lot cheaper than a $30 socket.

--R


I have a couple that are used for tightening the nuts on the bottom of 
faucets.  I'll try them if the Beetle sockets don't work or aren't deep 
enough.

Thanks,
Gerry
-


On 2/24/2010 7:27 AM, archer wrote:

Thanks, Rich.  I have half a dozen channel locks of different shapes
and sizes, so one of them should work.
Gerry
 From: "Rich Thomas"


On the 84SD I used some channel locks trying to turn off the
reducer/hose coming off the tank screen, and the whole thing, screen and
all came off easily.I think you could probably fit a wrench up in
there to turn it, forget what size.  I went to Sears and bought a big
socket to try to get the tank filter nut off, but didn't need it, and
probably could not have fit it up in there anyway (and I think it was
the wrong size too).  I would suggest using channel locks but it was
fairly tight up in there on the SD.
--R



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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[archer]

archer wrote:

Has anyone ever eliminated the filter screen in the tank and put a truck
type screw-on filter under the hood to take it's place?


I think the main function of the screen is to keep crap that might plug 
the

lines from getting into the fuel line.
Mitch.


I'm sure you're right.  As Scott said, the screen is pretty coarse and is 
needed to keep the metal lines from clogging up.

Thanks, Mitch.
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D


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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[archer]

From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>

I've hear of it, but not done it.  I think the socket is 1 5/8" or a
near mm size.


Thanks Dieselhead.  Think I've got that size.
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D
-
Gerry wrote:

Has anyone ever eliminated the filter screen in the tank and put a
truck type screw-on filter under the hood to take it's place?  I
have a hard time working under the car, so if there were simply two
lines to the tank and a big screw on filter under the hood, that
would be a big help.
Also, does anyone know the size socket needed to remove the tank
screen on an '83 300D?
Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[archer]

From: "Scott Ritchey" 
>I used a vice grip to turn the big nut.  I would not recommend removing the
> screen.  It is pretty course and you don't want that big crap in the lines.
> In Normal operation with clean fuel (and a clean tank) the screen should
> never get plugged.  If it does, you have other problems.
> 
> In boats (with big tanks) it's not unusual to have fuel in the tanks for
> long periods.  The marine guys have a technique called "polishing" where
> they pump the fuel through a series of external filters.  This can take
> several hours depending on tank size.  But with a small auto tank, I'd just
> us up most of the fuel and drain it through the filter hole.  If a lot of
> crud comes out you probably want to get a pro to drop and purge the tank.
--
I had the tank cleaned last year after the car had set up for  about a year.  
Used the additive I'd been using for years that was supposed to control algae 
with no problem until I put biobor in the tank.  Two days later it plugged.
I'd remove the tank but this bum leg won't move in some directions and it's 
slow and difficult getting up and down off the floor and into places like the 
front of the trunk.
What I'm thinking about is draining the tank, hooking a piece of garden hose to 
a Shopvac, flushing the tank with water, and then suctioning the crud off the 
bottom of the tank via the top hole like this marine website suggests:
..
SnipIt is advisable to clean out the tank periodically. How often depends 
on fuel quality and even tank material, but every couple of years you should at 
least draw some fuel from the very bottom of the tank to check for water and/or 
sediment. You cannot do this through the pick-up tube feeding the engine 
because it is an inch or so above the bottom. If the tank doesn't have a drain 
fitting or a clean-out port, you will need to find some other way to get a 
suction hose to the bottom..snip
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/Casey/33.htm 

Thanks for the advice, Scott.
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[Rich Thomas]

After I did my tank I remembered that I had some kind of plumbing 
"sockets" somewhere -- they are like big sockets but just formed metal 
tubing in various sizes, like from 1.5" to 2+"  Not sure how much torque 
they could take or if they would fit in the space provided, but for a 
quick job they might work if you could fit them in there.  I think I got 
them from my dad, not sure where he found them, maybe a hardware store 
type item?  Lot cheaper than a $30 socket.


--R

On 2/24/2010 7:27 AM, archer wrote:
Thanks, Rich.  I have half a dozen channel locks of different shapes 
and sizes, so one of them should work.

Gerry
 From: "Rich Thomas" 


On the 84SD I used some channel locks trying to turn off the
reducer/hose coming off the tank screen, and the whole thing, screen and
all came off easily.I think you could probably fit a wrench up in
there to turn it, forget what size.  I went to Sears and bought a big
socket to try to get the tank filter nut off, but didn't need it, and
probably could not have fit it up in there anyway (and I think it was
the wrong size too).  I would suggest using channel locks but it was
fairly tight up in there on the SD.
--R



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[MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[archer]

Great job description!  Thanks, Craig.
Gerry
--
>>From my time in Texas:

 General
The sender (on top of the tank, accessable by removing the first aid
kit) and the strainer (accessable from under the car) both measure
1.804" across the flats. This is 45.82mm and implies one would use a
46mm (1.811") or 1 13/16" (1.813") socket. If you have a large enough
crescent or monkey wrench, you might be able to loosen it from inside
the trunk. I didn't try this, I just removed the tank, since my car had
been sitting a year-and-a-half outside here in hot, muggy Texas and I
wanted to take care of any algae that might have accumulated in it.



 Tank Removal
To remove the tank I followed this procedure:
1. Slide a large piece of cardboard under the car in the area of the
   fuel tank and differential to catch any fuel spills.
2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
3. Slide under the car from behind the passenger side rear wheel and
   pinch the middle of the fuel supply hose between the strainer and the
   metal tube that goes to the engine compartment with a pair of vise
   grips.
4. Disconnect the supply hose from the metal tube.
5. Place a clean, dry 1 gallon plastic milk jug on a short piece of 2x8
   and put the end of the supply hose in its mouth.
6. Open the vise grips and fill the jug. Close the vise grips when the
   jug is full.
7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the tank is empty.
8. Plug the end of the fuel supply hose with a 5/16" or 8mm bolt and
   remove the vise grips.
9. Slide across to the left side of the car and disconnect the rubber
   vent line hose from its metal tube that goes to the front of the car.
   The vent line is the larger diameter of the two hoses.
10. Pinch the fuel return line hose (the smaller of the two hoses) with
   the vise grips.
11. Remove the fuel return line hose from its metal tube and plug the
   hose with a 5/16" or 8mm bolt. Remove the vise grips.
12. Slide out from under the car, get in the back seat, and remove the
   first aid kit.
13. Remove the plastic wheel well"protector" from the passenger side
   of the trunk.
14. Remove the rubber ring between the fuel tank filler neck and the body.
   This is most readily accomplished by grasping the ring on the outside
   of the body with a pair of pliers and pulling while pushing on the
   inside of the ring from inside the trunk with your fingers. I found
   that the front edge of the ring was the easiest to get started.
15. Remove the four tank holding nuts and washers.
16. Get in the trunk.
17. Starting at the left side of the tank, lift the tank and pull the
   top edge forward.
18. Struggle a lot while lifting and pulling, wondering if it will ever
   come out, until it finally does come out.
19. Put the filler cap back on the filler neck.
20. Lay the tank down on a large piece of cardboard. Now the fuel gauge
   sender is trivial to remove with a wrench. If you remove the
   tank-to-body seal from around the strainer, the strainer is also
   trivial to remove with a wrench.
21. If you remove both the strainer and the sender, you can shine a
   bright light in the strainer hole and inspect the inside of the tank
   from the sender hole.


Cleaning Sender

The sender has a small nylon cylinder in the middle of its flat bottom
that holds the bottom on. Grasp this gently with a pair of pliers and
rotate it counterclockwise to remove it. The metal plate of the bottom
will now come off easily and it can be wiped with a paper towel to get
the algae off it. Next is the rubber gasket. Its top side will harbor
some amount of algae goo, but it can be wiped clean as well.

At this point the metal cylinder that forms the outside of the sender
can be carefully pulled away from the threaded head, revealing the
sender mechanism. The tube can be readily cleaned inside and out with
paper towels rubbed on the outside and pushed through the inside as in
cleaning a gun's barrel.

The sender mechanism consists of two fine silver colored wires and one
larger, though not very large, copper colored wire stretched between the
threaded head and a "spreader" at the bottom. The spreader at the bottom
is held away from the threaded head by a central steel support rod. The
spreader has contacts for the reserve light and, since it's horizontal,
will also have an accumulation of goo. An old toothbrush dipped in
diesel will be helpful in cleaning the spreader and its contacts.

Take a clean paper towel and VERY CAREFULLY pinch with it one of the
three wires at the top near the head and pull toward the spreader, being
careful to not pull the wire to the side. Repeat if necessary and then
do the other two wires and the central steel support rod.

Also a part of the assembly is the float, which slides on the central
steel support rod. It has fingers that rub on both of the silver colored
wires, shorting them together so the resistance at the appropriate
contacts on the threaded head varies as the float goes up and down. The
f

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[archer]

Thanks, Rich.  I have half a dozen channel locks of different shapes and 
sizes, so one of them should work.

Gerry
 
From: "Rich Thomas" 

On the 84SD I used some channel locks trying to turn off the
reducer/hose coming off the tank screen, and the whole thing, screen and
all came off easily.I think you could probably fit a wrench up in
there to turn it, forget what size.  I went to Sears and bought a big
socket to try to get the tank filter nut off, but didn't need it, and
probably could not have fit it up in there anyway (and I think it was
the wrong size too).  I would suggest using channel locks but it was
fairly tight up in there on the SD.
--R



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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[Craig McCluskey]

On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:08:46 -0600 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I've hear of it, but not done it.  I think the socket is 1 5/8" or a 
> near mm size.



>From my time in Texas:


  General

The sender (on top of the tank, accessable by removing the first aid
kit) and the strainer (accessable from under the car) both measure
1.804" across the flats. This is 45.82mm and implies one would use a
46mm (1.811") or 1 13/16" (1.813") socket. If you have a large enough
crescent or monkey wrench, you might be able to loosen it from inside
the trunk. I didn't try this, I just removed the tank, since my car had
been sitting a year-and-a-half outside here in hot, muggy Texas and I
wanted to take care of any algae that might have accumulated in it.

  Tank Removal

To remove the tank I followed this procedure:

 1. Slide a large piece of cardboard under the car in the area of the
fuel tank and differential to catch any fuel spills.
 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
 3. Slide under the car from behind the passenger side rear wheel and
pinch the middle of the fuel supply hose between the strainer and the
metal tube that goes to the engine compartment with a pair of vise
grips.
 4. Disconnect the supply hose from the metal tube.
 5. Place a clean, dry 1 gallon plastic milk jug on a short piece of 2x8
and put the end of the supply hose in its mouth.
 6. Open the vise grips and fill the jug. Close the vise grips when the
jug is full.
 7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the tank is empty.
 8. Plug the end of the fuel supply hose with a 5/16" or 8mm bolt and
remove the vise grips.
 9. Slide across to the left side of the car and disconnect the rubber
vent line hose from its metal tube that goes to the front of the car.
The vent line is the larger diameter of the two hoses.
10. Pinch the fuel return line hose (the smaller of the two hoses) with
the vise grips.
11. Remove the fuel return line hose from its metal tube and plug the
hose with a 5/16" or 8mm bolt. Remove the vise grips.
12. Slide out from under the car, get in the back seat, and remove the
first aid kit.
13. Remove the plastic wheel well"protector" from the passenger side
of the trunk.
14. Remove the rubber ring between the fuel tank filler neck and the body.
This is most readily accomplished by grasping the ring on the outside
of the body with a pair of pliers and pulling while pushing on the
inside of the ring from inside the trunk with your fingers. I found
that the front edge of the ring was the easiest to get started.
15. Remove the four tank holding nuts and washers.
16. Get in the trunk.
17. Starting at the left side of the tank, lift the tank and pull the
top edge forward.
18. Struggle a lot while lifting and pulling, wondering if it will ever
come out, until it finally does come out.
19. Put the filler cap back on the filler neck.
20. Lay the tank down on a large piece of cardboard. Now the fuel gauge
sender is trivial to remove with a wrench. If you remove the
tank-to-body seal from around the strainer, the strainer is also
trivial to remove with a wrench.
21. If you remove both the strainer and the sender, you can shine a
bright light in the strainer hole and inspect the inside of the tank
from the sender hole.


Cleaning Sender

The sender has a small nylon cylinder in the middle of its flat bottom
that holds the bottom on. Grasp this gently with a pair of pliers and
rotate it counterclockwise to remove it. The metal plate of the bottom
will now come off easily and it can be wiped with a paper towel to get
the algae off it. Next is the rubber gasket. Its top side will harbor
some amount of algae goo, but it can be wiped clean as well.

At this point the metal cylinder that forms the outside of the sender
can be carefully pulled away from the threaded head, revealing the
sender mechanism. The tube can be readily cleaned inside and out with
paper towels rubbed on the outside and pushed through the inside as in
cleaning a gun's barrel.

The sender mechanism consists of two fine silver colored wires and one
larger, though not very large, copper colored wire stretched between the
threaded head and a "spreader" at the bottom. The spreader at the bottom
is held away from the threaded head by a central steel support rod. The
spreader has contacts for the reserve light and, since it's horizontal,
will also have an accumulation of goo. An old toothbrush dipped in
diesel will be helpful in cleaning the spreader and its contacts.

Take a clean paper towel and VERY CAREFULLY pinch with it one of the
three wires at the top near the head and pull toward the spreader, being
careful to not pull the wire to the side. Repeat if necessary and then
do the other two wires and the central steel support rod.

Also a part of the assembly is the float, which slides on the central
steel support rod. It has fingers that rub on both of the silver colored
wires, shorting them t

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[Dieselhead]

I've hear of it, but not done it.  I think the socket is 1 5/8" or a 
near mm size.



Has anyone ever eliminated the filter screen in the tank and put a 
truck type screw-on filter under the hood to take it's place?  I 
have a hard time working under the car, so if there were simply two 
lines to the tank and a big screw on filter under the hood, that 
would be a big help.
Also, does anyone know the size socket needed to remove the tank 
screen on an '83 300D?

Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[Scott Ritchey]

I used a vice grip to turn the big nut.  I would not recommend removing the
screen.  It is pretty course and you don't want that big crap in the lines.
In Normal operation with clean fuel (and a clean tank) the screen should
never get plugged.  If it does, you have other problems.

In boats (with big tanks) it's not unusual to have fuel in the tanks for
long periods.  The marine guys have a technique called "polishing" where
they pump the fuel through a series of external filters.  This can take
several hours depending on tank size.  But with a small auto tank, I'd just
us up most of the fuel and drain it through the filter hole.  If a lot of
crud comes out you probably want to get a pro to drop and purge the tank.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 15:19
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

Has anyone ever eliminated the filter screen in the tank and put a truck 
type screw-on filter under the hood to take it's place?  I have a hard time 
working under the car, so if there were simply two lines to the tank and a 
big screw on filter under the hood, that would be a big help.
Also, does anyone know the size socket needed to remove the tank screen on 
an '83 300D?
Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D 


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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[Mitch Haley]

archer wrote:
Has anyone ever eliminated the filter screen in the tank and put a truck 
type screw-on filter under the hood to take it's place?


I think the main function of the screen is to keep crap that might plug the 
lines from getting into the fuel line.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[Rich Thomas]

On the 84SD I used some channel locks trying to turn off the 
reducer/hose coming off the tank screen, and the whole thing, screen and 
all came off easily.I think you could probably fit a wrench up in 
there to turn it, forget what size.  I went to Sears and bought a big 
socket to try to get the tank filter nut off, but didn't need it, and 
probably could not have fit it up in there anyway (and I think it was 
the wrong size too).  I would suggest using channel locks but it was 
fairly tight up in there on the SD.


--R

On 2/23/2010 3:18 PM, archer wrote:
Has anyone ever eliminated the filter screen in the tank and put a 
truck type screw-on filter under the hood to take it's place?  I have 
a hard time working under the car, so if there were simply two lines 
to the tank and a big screw on filter under the hood, that would be a 
big help.
Also, does anyone know the size socket needed to remove the tank 
screen on an '83 300D?

Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

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[MBZ] Fuel Tank Screen

[archer]

Has anyone ever eliminated the filter screen in the tank and put a truck 
type screw-on filter under the hood to take it's place?  I have a hard time 
working under the car, so if there were simply two lines to the tank and a 
big screw on filter under the hood, that would be a big help.
Also, does anyone know the size socket needed to remove the tank screen on 
an '83 300D?

Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D 



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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank repair

[Robert Bigham]

Correctamundo.  Get it clean so solder will stick. Clean the area to be 
soldered with brush or somehow.  Use acid core solder or acid flux.  Heat the 
copper up well and it will do the whole job in one heating.  

One of the gas tank repair places like in Hemmings can do the welding if anyone 
really wants welding per se. 

Otherwise, do not try this at home.  We are professionals.  Ha !  

ed


>Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 12:02:03 -0600
>From: "R A Bennell" 
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuek leak/Fuel tank repair
>
>My father used to do this sort of thing as well. Not commercially, but I do 
>recall him soldering tanks that leaked.
>
>I think the primary concern is getting the area clean enough for the solder to 
>stick properly. My guess is that
>what you want is the flux - essentially acid - that was used when soldering 
>eavestroughing back when it was
>galvanized steel instead of aluminum or plastic. Wipe that stuff on and it 
>would eat anything that might cause
>trouble. Then the solder joint would stick pretty good.
>
>Randy
>
>-Original Message-
>From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
>[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Robert Bigham
>Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 11:54 AM
>To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuek leak/Fuel tank repair
>
>
>Hello All
>
>The safe way to repair a fuel tank is with soft solder and an old-fashioned 
>soldering copper.
>
>In this process, there need not be fire anywhere near the tank, there is no 
>spark ever, and the temperature of the
>tank can be moderated with partial water fillingor sponging with water similar 
>to in bodywork welding.
>
>One of my many old bosses used to do this a lot.  It was something of a trade 
>secret to him; he would not allow
>outsiders to actually see him do it. He used to cackle about how much money he 
>could get for so little work on tank
>repair.  But he used to cackle about a lot of things.
>
>Stay away from fuel tank welding; it's too dangerous.
>
>Regards ed
>
>
>>   3. Re: fuel leak (Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,   53310)
>>   4. Re: fuel leak (pm7...@comcast.net)
>>   6. Re: fuel leak (R A Bennell)
>>Message: 3
>>Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 14:21:50 -0500
>>From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310"
>>Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel leak
>>
>>Another trick that I've heard about but never witnessed is called
>>'pressing up' the tank, whereby you fill it with water so that the fuel
>>is pressed up to the top of the tank, and then you weld so that the
>>water gets heated and not the fuel.  How do you keep the water leaking
>>out of the break from mucking up your welding?  I don't know...
>>
>>-Max
>>
>>>[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
>>Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 9:14 PM
>
>>Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel leak
>>
>>> What do I use to weld this?  Torch?
>>
>>Fuel tank welding is rather tricky.  I've done it.  The secret
>>ingredient is a lawnmower putting away filling the tank with non-oxygen,
>>and keeping it that way.
>>
>>I don't really recommend it.
>>
>>-- Jim
>
>
>>Message: 4
>>Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 19:57:00 + (UTC)
>>From: pm7...@comcast.net
>>Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel leak
>>
>>Oh my, this is going to require ear plugs so the large BANG does't scare you 
>>too much.
>>
>>Than of course there is all the hollering and screaming that comes from burn 
>>victims.
>>
>>I've used epoxy with good results, not as dramatic of course
>>
>>
>>--
>>
>>Peter Arnold
>>
>>Windsor, CT
>>
>
>
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>
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>
>
>
>
>--
>
>Message: 13
>Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 12:05:37 -0600
>From: Fmiser 
>To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT '95 E300 project - OM606 fun (was oscope)
>Message-ID: <20100122120537.a61ca2c7.fmi...@gmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
>> Curt Raymond wrote:
>
>> I think Marshall said heat and time and that heat was a
>> function of RPM and load.
>
>> IIRC Marshall suggested getting some big friends to ride in
>> the backseat while you drove up big hills...
>
>Hmm. That requires big hills.  And friends
>
>--   Philip
>
>
>
>--
>
>Message: 14
>Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 13:12:24 -0500
>From: "Allan Streib" 
>To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>Subject: [MBZ] looking at '87 300D
>Message-ID: <1264183944.22213.1356069...@webmail.messagingengine.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>Well I had said that I was not buying any cars this year but I'd seen this 
>W124 sitting in a yard with a for sale sign for a while.  I had some time this 
>morning so I stopped to look at it.  It's an '87 300D with (if the odo is 
>correct) about 173K miles.
>
>Nobody was around so I noted the phone number.  The car

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[R A Bennell]

You know we love photos. I'd like to see them too.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Mountain Man
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 11:53 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning


Craig wrote:
> I've got pictures if anyone is interested.

Send 'em here - thanks.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Mountain Man]

Craig wrote:
> I've got pictures if anyone is interested.

Send 'em here - thanks.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Craig McCluskey]

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 22:06:18 -0600 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> For 123 and later chassis, with the tank behind the seat, this method 
> does not work, as you observed.  Those screens are accessed with a 
> big socket., and yes, the axle is always inthe way.  A real pain 
> compared to the 110/115 cars. and 110/111/112/114/108/109 gassers

If you drain the take completely to get the screen out, it's not that much
harder to take the tank out of the car. Then, you can use a large wrench
on both the fuel sender and the screen. That's what I did when I was a
graduate student in Texas.

I've got pictures if anyone is interested.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Dieselhead]

The subject of this thread is a /8.  These and earlier cars had the 
tank under the trunk.  in these, you put the head of the bolt into 
the allen socket on the plug.  Then put a wrench on the top nut to 
unscrew the plug and screen, after you have used 2 wrenches to jam 
the two nuts together.  If you weld the nuts, you can use a socket on 
the bottom nut.  Then you have a GenUwine merSAYdees tool.


I have also used the channel lock method, and the chisel method.  The 
bolt method is the more elegant choice.


For 123 and later chassis, with the tank behind the seat, this method 
does not work, as you observed.  Those screens are accessed with a 
big socket., and yes, the axle is always inthe way.  A real pain 
compared to the 110/115 cars. and 110/111/112/114/108/109 gassers





Dieselhead wrote:

 I have used a bolt with a 15/16" head
 with double nuts or double nuts welded on to remove these.


Tell us more about this?
the double nuts grab the flats of the screen? - then wrench on the
screen using the double nutted 5/8?  On our '84 240D the axle shaft
was in the way, so a bit of chisel loosened it to take it off.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Mountain Man]

Craig wrote:
> He's talking about a '74 240D, a W115. Your '84 240D is a W123.

Bruce was speaking about a W115 - was Dieselhead also speaking about a W115?
Thanks.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Craig McCluskey]

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 21:09:19 -0600 Mountain Man 
wrote:

> Tell us more about this?

No need to tell more ...


> On our '84 240D the axle shaft was in the way, so a bit of chisel
> loosened it to take it off.

He's talking about a '74 240D, a W115. Your '84 240D is a W123.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Mountain Man]

Dieselhead wrote:
> I have used a bolt with a 15/16" head
> with double nuts or double nuts welded on to remove these.

Tell us more about this?
the double nuts grab the flats of the screen? - then wrench on the
screen using the double nutted 5/8?  On our '84 240D the axle shaft
was in the way, so a bit of chisel loosened it to take it off.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Dieselhead]

The drain and screen are in the middle of the bottom of the tank.  It 
takes a large allen wrench.  23 or 24 mm.  I have used a bolt with a 
15/16" head with double nuts or double nuts welded on to remove 
these.  I think the size is 5/8" bolt.  Fuel gauge sender is accessed 
in the center of the trunk, under an access panel




Hi All,

I recently purchased a very nice 74 240D and put a good motor in it. 
It runs sweet, but then dies of fuel starvation.  Discovered that 
the tank is filled with old biodiesel that has the color, texture, 
and clarity of carrot juice.  I have to stop and blow out the tank 
screen every 5 minutes to get it to run.


What is the most expeditious way of cleaning out the tank?  I 
flushed it once through the outlet lines but it is still filled with 
gunk.  Is there an inspection hatch I could use, or should I remove 
the tank and manually shake and swirl it?


TIA

Bruce



 
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Jim Cathey]

Is there an inspection hatch I could use, or should I remove the tank 
and manually shake and swirl it?


The fuel sender in the top is in a nice big hole.  Tank
strainer on bottom is in another.  Remove both, and go
to town with a pressure washer?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[archer]

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning



Rich Thomas wrote:

There is (most likely -- I just did this on a 126) a fuel tank strainer
at the bottom where the fuel line attaches, it is probably gunked up.


I know the substance of which he speaks, it sounds like the grainy stuff 
on the
bottom of a barrel of used Chinese restaurant soy oil. If that's in the 
tank,
take off the filler cap, put a huge catch pan under the car, and unscrew 
the
strainer, hoping that 90% of the crap will come out with the fuel. Then 
you'll
probably have to run a pressure washer wand in there to get the rest (try 
not to
pressure wash the coil in the fuel level sender) and then find a way to 
dry it

out, maybe with a blow dryer stuck in the filler tube.

Mitch.

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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12:49:00



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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Mitch Haley]

Rich Thomas wrote:
There is (most likely -- I just did this on a 126) a fuel tank strainer 
at the bottom where the fuel line attaches, it is probably gunked up.


I know the substance of which he speaks, it sounds like the grainy stuff on the 
bottom of a barrel of used Chinese restaurant soy oil. If that's in the tank, 
take off the filler cap, put a huge catch pan under the car, and unscrew the 
strainer, hoping that 90% of the crap will come out with the fuel. Then you'll 
probably have to run a pressure washer wand in there to get the rest (try not to 
pressure wash the coil in the fuel level sender) and then find a way to dry it 
out, maybe with a blow dryer stuck in the filler tube.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Rich Thomas]

There is (most likely -- I just did this on a 126) a fuel tank strainer 
at the bottom where the fuel line attaches, it is probably gunked up.  
(that is not what you mean by tank screen is it?  I can't imagine doing 
that every 5 min)  Drain the tank as much as you can, then take it out 
and either clean it or put in another one (cheap enough) with the 
o-ring.  While it is out you could probably do some cleaning from top or 
bottom or bothj so the crap will drain out.


--R

B Dike wrote:

Hi All,

I recently purchased a very nice 74 240D and put a good motor in it.  It runs 
sweet, but then dies of fuel starvation.  Discovered that the tank is filled 
with old biodiesel that has the color, texture, and clarity of carrot juice.  I 
have to stop and blow out the tank screen every 5 minutes to get it to run.

What is the most expeditious way of cleaning out the tank?  I flushed it once 
through the outlet lines but it is still filled with gunk.  Is there an 
inspection hatch I could use, or should I remove the tank and manually shake 
and swirl it?

TIA

Bruce



  
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[MBZ] Fuel Tank Cleaning

[B Dike]

Hi All,

I recently purchased a very nice 74 240D and put a good motor in it.  It runs 
sweet, but then dies of fuel starvation.  Discovered that the tank is filled 
with old biodiesel that has the color, texture, and clarity of carrot juice.  I 
have to stop and blow out the tank screen every 5 minutes to get it to run.

What is the most expeditious way of cleaning out the tank?  I flushed it once 
through the outlet lines but it is still filled with gunk.  Is there an 
inspection hatch I could use, or should I remove the tank and manually shake 
and swirl it?

TIA

Bruce



  
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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Mountain Man]

Max wrote:
> Don't drive it around to use up the fuel, use the lift pump on the car
> to pump out the fuel tank by putting the return line into a suitable
> container and then starting the car.

Thanks for the fine solution - however, I don't have the parts in hand
yet, so I drive the tank level down until the parts arrive next week.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[WILTON]

My thoughts, too, 'cept the "custom" stuff.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2009 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose



Looks like a nice car ---

On Thu, Sep 3, 2009 at 9:17 PM, WILTON  wrote:


Another 126 with manny tranny?

Wilton

- Original Message - From: "Mountain Man" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2009 9:35 PM
Subject: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose



This is W123 240D and the hose from the screen is leaking.  Is that a

dealer part or can I cut the fitting and hose clamp new hose?

The muffler rusted out just upstream from the first resonator.  Noise
is gone now, as I put one of my rust bucket 240D on there.  My son did
the work as he has access to the shop & lift, and said that OEM
exhaust parts always last much longer than aftermarket parts.  The
parts off my rustbucket are OEM, so we should be good for a while...
after I get that leaky hose fixed.  Gotta get the fuel out of the tank
- driving it, then fix it.  Son also did the alternator bracket - the
alternator lower mount was all out of round and long bolt there was
almost worn thru - amazing the thing ran.  Rustbucket bosch alternator
is in there now, so again should be good for a while... after I get
the leaky hose done.

What about this beast? - I like it since it has a clutch.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/1349826118.html
mao

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--
OK Don
Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Loren Faeth]

"lift pump" is an old British name for a fuel pump. (Gasser or 
Diesel)  It is used by many folks around diesels (and Mechanically 
injected engines) to describe the "transfer pump" or "low pressure 
pump" that moves fuel from the tank to the filter and thence to the IP.


In the Bosch nomenclature  It is known as a "transfer pump"  Since 
they made the parts, I tend to use the term "Transfer pump."


At 10:58 AM 9/4/2009, you wrote:
right, got it. (i should know better than try to type while the 
coffee's still brewing!)
   may be i just got distracted by the concept of referring to a 
pump that sits *above* the tank and at the furthermost downstream 
portion of the fuel line as a "lift" pump,... just seems odd.



cheers!
e


OK Don wrote:

That's what Max said - disconnect the return line and use it to pump out the
fuel.

   seems like if one were to want to use the vehicles own pump to empty the


tank, the only possibility would be to use the return line.

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:



Because there is a supply line and a return line; the lift pump applies
suction on supply line and provides pressurized fuel (about 10 to 15
psi) to the filter then to the IP, and whatever fuel is not used by the
IP is returned to the fuel tank via the return line.

Max

--
OK Don
Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos




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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Mathieu J . Cama]

On Sep 4, 2009, at 12:23 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 
53310 wrote:



Agreed on the name 'lift pump'.  The service manual merely calls it the
fuel pump, I think that lift pump is commonly used here in the states
for diesel fuel systems.  Calling it the fuel pump risks confusion with
fuel injection pump, in my opinion.

Max



The term lift pump is generally used for large American diesels, in my 
experience. I've always known it referred to as a feed pump on the MBs.



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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Agreed on the name 'lift pump'.  The service manual merely calls it the
fuel pump, I think that lift pump is commonly used here in the states
for diesel fuel systems.  Calling it the fuel pump risks confusion with
fuel injection pump, in my opinion.

Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of ernest breakfield
Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 11:59 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

right, got it. (i should know better than try to type while the coffee's
still brewing!)
may be i just got distracted by the concept of referring to a pump
that sits *above* the tank and at the furthermost downstream portion of
the fuel line as a "lift" pump,... just seems odd.


cheers!
e


OK Don wrote:
> That's what Max said - disconnect the return line and use it to pump 
> out the fuel.
>
>seems like if one were to want to use the vehicles own pump to 
> empty the
>   
>> tank, the only possibility would be to use the return line.
>>
>> Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:
>>
>> 
>>> Because there is a supply line and a return line; the lift pump 
>>> applies suction on supply line and provides pressurized fuel (about 
>>> 10 to 15
>>> psi) to the filter then to the IP, and whatever fuel is not used by 
>>> the IP is returned to the fuel tank via the return line.
>>>
>>> Max
>>>
>>> --
>>> OK Don
>>> Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
>>>
>>>
>>>   
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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[ernest breakfield]

right, got it. (i should know better than try to type while the coffee's 
still brewing!)
   may be i just got distracted by the concept of referring to a pump 
that sits *above* the tank and at the furthermost downstream portion of 
the fuel line as a "lift" pump,... just seems odd.



cheers!
e


OK Don wrote:

That's what Max said - disconnect the return line and use it to pump out the
fuel.

   seems like if one were to want to use the vehicles own pump to empty the
  

tank, the only possibility would be to use the return line.

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:



Because there is a supply line and a return line; the lift pump applies
suction on supply line and provides pressurized fuel (about 10 to 15
psi) to the filter then to the IP, and whatever fuel is not used by the
IP is returned to the fuel tank via the return line.

Max

--
OK Don
Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos


  

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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[ernest breakfield]

missed that.   

   got it; thanks!


cheers!
e


Mitch Haley wrote:

ernest breakfield wrote:
still, if one were to disconnect the line that the lift pump is 
pumping, what fuel would be running to the IP to run the engine and 
turn the pump?


That is why it was recommended to disconnect the RETURN line that 
sends the surplus back to the tank.


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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[OK Don]

That's what Max said - disconnect the return line and use it to pump out the
fuel.

   seems like if one were to want to use the vehicles own pump to empty the
> tank, the only possibility would be to use the return line.
>
> Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:
>
>> Because there is a supply line and a return line; the lift pump applies
>> suction on supply line and provides pressurized fuel (about 10 to 15
>> psi) to the filter then to the IP, and whatever fuel is not used by the
>> IP is returned to the fuel tank via the return line.
>>
>> Max
>>
>> --
>> OK Don
>> Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Mitch Haley]

ernest breakfield wrote:
still, if one were to disconnect the line that the lift pump is pumping, 
what fuel would be running to the IP to run the engine and turn the pump?


That is why it was recommended to disconnect the RETURN line that sends the 
surplus back to the tank.


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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[ernest breakfield]

still, if one were to disconnect the line that the lift pump is pumping, 
what fuel would be running to the IP to run the engine and turn the pump?


   seems like if one were to want to use the vehicles own pump to empty 
the tank, the only possibility would be to use the return line.



cheers!
e


Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

Because there is a supply line and a return line; the lift pump applies
suction on supply line and provides pressurized fuel (about 10 to 15
psi) to the filter then to the IP, and whatever fuel is not used by the
IP is returned to the fuel tank via the return line.

Max 


-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of ernest breakfield
Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 11:05 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

i always thought of a lift pump as being defined as one in or near the
tank that "lifted" fuel to the pump at the engine,...
nevertheless, how would the pump you're referring to run when the
fuel line is disconnected from the engine as the previous posted 
described?   ;-)



cheers!
e


Jim Cathey wrote:
  

do 240Ds really have lift pumps?
  

Yes.  Inside the housing the primer pump screws into.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[ernest breakfield]

i always thought of a lift pump as being defined as one in or near the 
tank that "lifted" fuel to the pump at the engine,...
   nevertheless, how would the pump you're referring to run when the 
fuel line is disconnected from the engine as the previous posted 
described?   ;-)



cheers!
e


Jim Cathey wrote:

do 240Ds really have lift pumps?


Yes.  Inside the housing the primer pump screws into.

-- Jim

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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Jim Cathey]

do 240Ds really have lift pumps?


Yes.  Inside the housing the primer pump screws into.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Because there is a supply line and a return line; the lift pump applies
suction on supply line and provides pressurized fuel (about 10 to 15
psi) to the filter then to the IP, and whatever fuel is not used by the
IP is returned to the fuel tank via the return line.

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of ernest breakfield
Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 11:05 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

i always thought of a lift pump as being defined as one in or near the
tank that "lifted" fuel to the pump at the engine,...
nevertheless, how would the pump you're referring to run when the
fuel line is disconnected from the engine as the previous posted 
described?   ;-)


cheers!
e


Jim Cathey wrote:
>> do 240Ds really have lift pumps?
>
> Yes.  Inside the housing the primer pump screws into.
>
> -- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[ernest breakfield]

do 240Ds really have lift pumps?


cheers!
e


Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

Mao,

Don't drive it around to use up the fuel, use the lift pump on the car
to pump out the fuel tank by putting the return line into a suitable
container and then starting the car.  That should empty the tank in a
few minutes or less.

Max 


-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mountain Man
Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2009 9:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

This is W123 240D and the hose from the screen is leaking.  Is that a
dealer part or can I cut the fitting and hose clamp new hose?

The muffler rusted out just upstream from the first resonator.  Noise is
gone now, as I put one of my rust bucket 240D on there.  My son did the
work as he has access to the shop & lift, and said that OEM exhaust
parts always last much longer than aftermarket parts.  The parts off my
rustbucket are OEM, so we should be good for a while...
after I get that leaky hose fixed.  Gotta get the fuel out of the tank
- driving it, then fix it.  Son also did the alternator bracket - the
alternator lower mount was all out of round and long bolt there was
almost worn thru - amazing the thing ran.  Rustbucket bosch alternator
is in there now, so again should be good for a while... after I get the
leaky hose done.

What about this beast? - I like it since it has a clutch.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/1349826118.html
mao

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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Mao,

Don't drive it around to use up the fuel, use the lift pump on the car
to pump out the fuel tank by putting the return line into a suitable
container and then starting the car.  That should empty the tank in a
few minutes or less.

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mountain Man
Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2009 9:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

This is W123 240D and the hose from the screen is leaking.  Is that a
dealer part or can I cut the fitting and hose clamp new hose?

The muffler rusted out just upstream from the first resonator.  Noise is
gone now, as I put one of my rust bucket 240D on there.  My son did the
work as he has access to the shop & lift, and said that OEM exhaust
parts always last much longer than aftermarket parts.  The parts off my
rustbucket are OEM, so we should be good for a while...
after I get that leaky hose fixed.  Gotta get the fuel out of the tank
- driving it, then fix it.  Son also did the alternator bracket - the
alternator lower mount was all out of round and long bolt there was
almost worn thru - amazing the thing ran.  Rustbucket bosch alternator
is in there now, so again should be good for a while... after I get the
leaky hose done.

What about this beast? - I like it since it has a clutch.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/1349826118.html
mao

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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Mountain Man]

OK Don wrote:
> Looks like a nice car ---

That's what I was thinking.
A 5 hour round-trip drive to see it might be in order... maybe.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[OK Don]

Looks like a nice car ---

On Thu, Sep 3, 2009 at 9:17 PM, WILTON  wrote:

> Another 126 with manny tranny?
>
> Wilton
>
> - Original Message - From: "Mountain Man" 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2009 9:35 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose
>
>
>
> This is W123 240D and the hose from the screen is leaking.  Is that a
>> dealer part or can I cut the fitting and hose clamp new hose?
>>
>> The muffler rusted out just upstream from the first resonator.  Noise
>> is gone now, as I put one of my rust bucket 240D on there.  My son did
>> the work as he has access to the shop & lift, and said that OEM
>> exhaust parts always last much longer than aftermarket parts.  The
>> parts off my rustbucket are OEM, so we should be good for a while...
>> after I get that leaky hose fixed.  Gotta get the fuel out of the tank
>> - driving it, then fix it.  Son also did the alternator bracket - the
>> alternator lower mount was all out of round and long bolt there was
>> almost worn thru - amazing the thing ran.  Rustbucket bosch alternator
>> is in there now, so again should be good for a while... after I get
>> the leaky hose done.
>>
>> What about this beast? - I like it since it has a clutch.
>> http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/1349826118.html
>> mao
>>
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-- 
OK Don
Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[WILTON]

Another 126 with manny tranny?

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Mountain Man" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2009 9:35 PM
Subject: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose



This is W123 240D and the hose from the screen is leaking.  Is that a
dealer part or can I cut the fitting and hose clamp new hose?

The muffler rusted out just upstream from the first resonator.  Noise
is gone now, as I put one of my rust bucket 240D on there.  My son did
the work as he has access to the shop & lift, and said that OEM
exhaust parts always last much longer than aftermarket parts.  The
parts off my rustbucket are OEM, so we should be good for a while...
after I get that leaky hose fixed.  Gotta get the fuel out of the tank
- driving it, then fix it.  Son also did the alternator bracket - the
alternator lower mount was all out of round and long bolt there was
almost worn thru - amazing the thing ran.  Rustbucket bosch alternator
is in there now, so again should be good for a while... after I get
the leaky hose done.

What about this beast? - I like it since it has a clutch.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/1349826118.html
mao

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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Mountain Man]

Jim wrote:
> That hose usually has two different diameters.  That is,
> it's a molded taper part.  Tough to replace aftermarket.

I will call the dealer.
If he sez $50, then I call Rusty.
Thanks.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Jim Cathey]

This is W123 240D and the hose from the screen is leaking.  Is that a
dealer part or can I cut the fitting and hose clamp new hose?


That hose usually has two different diameters.  That is,
it's a molded taper part.  Tough to replace aftermarket.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

[Mountain Man]

This is W123 240D and the hose from the screen is leaking.  Is that a
dealer part or can I cut the fitting and hose clamp new hose?

The muffler rusted out just upstream from the first resonator.  Noise
is gone now, as I put one of my rust bucket 240D on there.  My son did
the work as he has access to the shop & lift, and said that OEM
exhaust parts always last much longer than aftermarket parts.  The
parts off my rustbucket are OEM, so we should be good for a while...
after I get that leaky hose fixed.  Gotta get the fuel out of the tank
- driving it, then fix it.  Son also did the alternator bracket - the
alternator lower mount was all out of round and long bolt there was
almost worn thru - amazing the thing ran.  Rustbucket bosch alternator
is in there now, so again should be good for a while... after I get
the leaky hose done.

What about this beast? - I like it since it has a clutch.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/1349826118.html
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Vent?

[R A Bennell]

Are you sure it is the same size? I have a length of new injector return hose 
and could use some of it. I don't
want to remove the old stuff and then find out it is not the correct size as I 
might not be able to put the
original back in place temporarily.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 8:42 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Vent?


It's the same stuff.

The expansion tank is inside the trunk, and the vent itself (on a W115
chassis) is hidden by the rear bumper on the right side.

On the W123 chassis, there is another hose that comes down to a flared
rubber valve fitting near the rear axle.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Vent?

[Peter Frederick]

It's the same stuff.

The expansion tank is inside the trunk, and the vent itself (on a W115 
chassis) is hidden by the rear bumper on the right side.

On the W123 chassis, there is another hose that comes down to a flared 
rubber valve fitting near the rear axle.

Peter


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[MBZ] Fuel Tank Vent?

[R A Bennell]

My 76 300D leaves a spot of fuel on the garage floor. I had assumed it was time 
to replace the hoses from the tank
and got the same from Rusty. I have now crawled under and looked and discovered 
that the fuel hoses go out of the
tank close to the middle on the front and do not appear to be leaking. However, 
there are 2 braided hoses that
attach to the tank on the front right corner and then attach to plastic tubing 
that then goes up into the body. Are
these vent tubes? It is one of these that is seeping quite badly. I wiped it 
off and it got wet again quite
quickly. It appears, as one might expect, to be worse when the tank is full. Is 
the braided hose the same size as
that on the injector return lines? I tried to measure with a caliper and came 
away with the idea that the hoses on
the tank are a little bit larger. Am I correct?  I shall poke around a bit more 
and see if there is anything else I
should order while I am doing so. I should check the flex disks in the 
driveshaft.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Anatomy

[Marshall Booth]

ned kleinhenz wrote:

My '95 E300D starts and runs for 15 to 30 seconds, then stalls.  I suspect
algae or other debris in the fuel tank.

To remove and clean the screen inside the fuel tank of a 124 -
Do I have to remove the tank?  Or can screen be removed from under the car?
How is it attached?

These things are not clear in the manual... I ask because I'm trying to
figure out if this is something that can be done in an hour or two?   Or
does this require a day or two?

Are there pit falls to look out for?


The sedan tank and strainer are illustrated in job 47-4100 on the first 
page. The supply line and filter unscrew from below (AFTER you've 
emptied the tank of fuel).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Anatomy

[LarryT]

Hi Ned,
   I have the WSM on CD and it shows the tank filter on the bottom with 
instruction saying remove, clean, refit.  It certainly looks like it's a job 
that does *not* require the tan removal - like most, if not all MB's.


   Good luck -- when I cleaned the strainer on my '78 240D I had a new 
strainer on hand to make replacement very easy - so naturally I did not need 
to replace.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes List" 
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 5:11 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Anatomy



My '95 E300D starts and runs for 15 to 30 seconds, then stalls.  I suspect
algae or other debris in the fuel tank.

To remove and clean the screen inside the fuel tank of a 124 -
Do I have to remove the tank?  Or can screen be removed from under the 
car?

How is it attached?

These things are not clear in the manual... I ask because I'm trying to
figure out if this is something that can be done in an hour or two?   Or
does this require a day or two?

Are there pit falls to look out for?

Thanks,
Ned Kleinhenz

'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Tank Anatomy

[Harry Watkins]

Ned

If its like my SDL it has a plastic pre filter.  Replace or bypass that for
a test drive.

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

- Original Message - 
From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> My '95 E300D starts and runs for 15 to 30 seconds, then stalls.  I suspect
> algae or other debris in the fuel tank.
>
> To remove and clean the screen inside the fuel tank of a 124 -
> Do I have to remove the tank?  Or can screen be removed from under the
car?
> How is it attached?
>
> These things are not clear in the manual... I ask because I'm trying to
> figure out if this is something that can be done in an hour or two?   Or
> does this require a day or two?
>
> Are there pit falls to look out for?
>
> Thanks,
> Ned Kleinhenz
>
> '95 E300D x2
> '85 300D
> '80 300TD

[MBZ] Fuel Tank Anatomy

[ned kleinhenz]

My '95 E300D starts and runs for 15 to 30 seconds, then stalls.  I suspect
algae or other debris in the fuel tank.

To remove and clean the screen inside the fuel tank of a 124 -
Do I have to remove the tank?  Or can screen be removed from under the car?
How is it attached?

These things are not clear in the manual... I ask because I'm trying to
figure out if this is something that can be done in an hour or two?   Or
does this require a day or two?

Are there pit falls to look out for?

Thanks,
Ned Kleinhenz

'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD

Re: [MBZ] fuel tank heating element

[Steve MacSween]

on 5/29/06 8:33 PM, Sunil Hari at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Does my 92 300D have a heating element in the fuel tank?  Is there any way
> to check?  Are they available?
> 
> Do -any- Benzes have this feature?  I think it would be handy if you had
> non-winterized diesel (aka truck stop) in a cold climate.

There was an optional heater element, sold in the 60s and 70s by Mercedes
but they are exceedingly rare. I have seen two on eBay, and they went for
large money.

There isn't much call for one, unless you live in a particuarly cold area.
The newer winter diesel fuels are much improved over what people lived with
way back when. Or so I am told ;-).

Mac

Re: [MBZ] fuel tank heating element

[Jim Cathey]

Do -any- Benzes have this feature?  I think it would be handy if you 
had

non-winterized diesel (aka truck stop) in a cold climate.


The real freeze-up problem is the exposed fuel line along the bottom
of the car, and the fuel filter where the wax particles collect and
plug up the element.  The tank gets warmed fuel returned to it as
the excess from the injection system gets circulated.  (In the case
of the gassers, when the AC is on cooled fuel is returned!)

Also, as the tank is between the trunk and the passenger compartment
it's getting leak heat from the cabin.  (The trunk is where the cabin
vents are, at least on later models.  This is supposed to moderate
the trunk temperatures.)

-- Jim