It is time for winter mix fuel to appear in most northern states, too
-- less dense, so you get worse milage.
We had a rash of bad (dirty) off-road fuel about six years ago in the
Indiana/Kentucky/Illinois area -- I did several different analyses for
people with samples of fuel with strange
Hi Aaron,
I've heard what you describe and I agree that the source of the noise
is the 7-port vacuum manifold. However I have *no* idea if it's the
manifold itself that's the problem, or if it's getting an erratic, or
weak, signal from the ACC brain (pushbutton unit). I'd love to hear if
anyone
They are shot, they die of old age. If you want to check, look for ANY
space between bar and bushing. They fit, when new, by compression and
there should be NO clearance at all.
Also check the brackets for the body mounts -- they tend to fracture
and rattle. Cheap and easy to replace, but
my '82 300D hasn't been titled in at least 10 years, and probably hasn't
been run in as long. I want to make an attempt to start it this weekend.
I did put the 27mm socket on the crank pully, and it feels normal. The
coolant shows no sign of contamination and the oil level is right
I'd fire her up, get her warmed up and change the oil. Might take a look at
the brakefluid. If you had diesel in the tank, a dose of algae killer will
be no waste.
On 11/18/05, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
my '82 300D hasn't been titled in at least 10 years, and probably hasn't
been
Ah, I remember those things! The WERE a redesign of an existing
gasoline engine (not a converted one, but based on existing designs),
and on top of the problems you describe they had a distressing
tendency, at least in the early ones, to spin a rear main bearing every
25,000 miles or so. I
Bad control arm bushing will make the front tires wear badly and
prevent a shop from performing a decent front end alignment. Fairly
easy to tell, as the control arm will move at the pivot end in
directions other than on axis. The noise will be similar to bad sway
bar bushing ends except for
I'm planning on removing fuel lines and having a small container of D to
run the car on, similar to running Dpurge through the system.
On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 18:31:06 -0600, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
I'd fire her up, get her warmed up and change the oil. Might take a look
at
Luther Gulseth wrote:
my '82 300D hasn't been titled in at least 10 years, and probably hasn't
been run in as long. I want to make an attempt to start it this weekend.
I did put the 27mm socket on the crank pully, and it feels normal. The
coolant shows no sign of contamination and the
Luther Gulseth wrote:
I'm planning on removing fuel lines and having a small container of D to
run the car on, similar to running Dpurge through the system.
Good (maybe GREAT) plan!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor
Ball joints are cheap, installation on the W124 isn't bad, and driving
with the front wheel unattached is often lethal. Replace if at ALL in
doubt, they usually have excessive play long before they die.
Squeaks on turning the wheel is either ball joints or steering linkage,
nothing else is
Check the condition of the interior temp sampler motor -- having a bad
motor or loose hose will cause temperature mode switching (you are
hearing the solenoid for the mode switch).
A shot of contact cleaner on the rheostat for the temp control won't
hurt, either -- did both on the TE and the
Marshall Booth wrote:
Timing chain life is seldom LESS than 200kmi (should about be double
that if you use Mobil synthetics) unless you don't change the oil when
it's dirty!
That the speedometer was worked on a few years ago does NOT insure it's
accuracy now. You need to measure it. A road
my '82 300D hasn't been titled in at least 10 years, and probably
hasn't
been run in as long. I want to make an attempt to start it this
weekend.
I did put the 27mm socket on the crank pully, and it feels normal. The
coolant shows no sign of contamination and the oil level is right
between
The 5.0 mustangs were that way as well.
But not so my 5.0 Camaro. It's got a tall fifth gear that will get
it to 143, past redline in fourth. But it will not get to redline in
fifth, of course. I raced my brother's 5.0 same-year Mustang, and
whupped him. Twice.
-- Jim
1. Is the 1985 really that much more desireable because it was the
last year?
Marginally. They're a little quicker, something to do with changing
the torque converter for a higher stall speed. More slip for a faster
launch. To me, any turbo'd D with a VDO ACC system is equally
On Fri, Nov 18, 2005 at 05:25:50PM -0800, Jim Cathey wrote:
The frankenheap sat for 10 years, and all I did was put a battery on
it and start it. After checking the oil and rolling over the engine
by hand, as you did.
How is the heap these days?
Good to have you around, Jim.
K
How is the heap these days?
Dormant. (I _did_ fix the clock.) With no job, I don't really need
my winter beater commuter car (_yet_, one hopes).
-- Jim
The car doesn't have be old to develop this fault. My '85 190E started the
click-click routine when it was nearly new and it was an AC component behind
the
glove box. Seems like it was called a changeover valve but that may be wrong.
Just one of dozens of warranty claims.
Why not just remove
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The car doesn't have be old to develop this fault. My '85 190E started the
click-click routine when it was nearly new and it was an AC component behind the
glove box. Seems like it was called a changeover valve but that may be wrong.
Just one of dozens of warranty
Luther,
Here's what I would do: First I would remove the valve cover and drip oil
over all the cams and rocker arms. I read this in a MB manual somewhere. Then
I would run the starter with the GP relay disconnected until the oil pressure
needle started to rise. Then I would fire it
yes
Christopher McCann wrote:
what is a low cylinder...low compression?
Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ohhh, ok
Christopher McCann wrote:
we had it set too low...that was the first problem, stalling in reverse (esp
when cold) or stalling in reverse when A/C is on when hot
info on what?
BillR wrote:
What ?? Picks of an old chevy, but no picks of the rare 123 LWB
yet?
Where are your priorities?
I guess I'll have to do it for him
There must be something of a story with that one. It looks like a great
car. Where can I get some info on it?
help me compile a list of the rubber suspension/hoses/belts/etc parts that
will probably need replacing when they deteriorate in a 123. I'm curious
to see what this list would look like.
Radiator hoses
belts
shock mounts
engine shock mounts
engine mounts
transmission mount
differential
yea like i was saying I heard those were not really that bad ones the
problems were worked out with them, and the improper training had alot
to do with it.
Smith, Todd wrote:
Hello,
This is one area that I know a little something about since I have followed
these diesels for years. In the
Door, window, windshield, and trunk seals.
Tires
Valve stems
Wiper blades
an anti-depressive
On 11/18/05, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
help me compile a list of the rubber suspension/hoses/belts/etc parts that
will probably need replacing when they deteriorate in a 123. I'm curious
Message: 23
Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 21:36:32 -0600
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] LWB 123 picture
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
info on what?
BillR wrote:
What
Why is it that EVERYONE is always either demanding training, or
blaming the lack of training?
Can't anyone read and think anymore???
On 11/18/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
yea like i was saying I heard those were not really that bad ones the
problems were worked out with them,
Glad to see you Jim!
On Friday, November 18, 2005, at 05:25 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
my '82 300D hasn't been titled in at least 10 years, and probably
hasn't
been run in as long. I want to make an attempt to start it this
weekend.
I did put the 27mm socket on the crank pully, and it feels
Tires
Wiper blades
Windshield and rear window seals
Radio antenna grommet
Breather hoses
Turbo oil return line seal
Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: help me compile a list of the rubber
suspension/hoses/belts/etc parts that
will probably need replacing when they deteriorate
John,
I don't know about making this a responsibility of the 13 year old,
but, as a long time subscriber to this list, I grant you absolution
for your oversight
Take care... but don't let it happen again! :)
Chuck
Phoenix, AZ
On Nov 18, 2005, at 3:40 PM, John M McIntosh wrote:
You could remove the sway bar and see if the noise goes away. :)
Sway bar bushings usually clunk going over rail road tracks and things
like that.
Bushings are hard to test and are often misdiagnosed.
Its important to remember that AGE also kills rubber - its not just
the miles. We don't drive
HUH
On Nov 18, 2005, at 8:49 PM, OK Don wrote:
Why is it that EVERYONE is always either demanding training, or
blaming the lack of training?
Can't anyone read and think anymore???
On 11/18/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
yea like i was saying I heard those were not really
All the vacuum operated diaphragms - doors, ACC, fuel shut off
ACC air control flap seals
1897 o-rings in various places
axle boots
ball joint boots
exhaust system doughnuts
suspension limit bumpers
On 11/18/05, B Dike [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Tires
Wiper blades
Windshield and rear window
Good point Brian - I recently pulled the spare tire (don't know how
old it is, but the tire and rim look un-used) from the trunk of the
'78 450SLC, and replaced one rear tire with it. I only set the wheel
on the drive, did not drive it (engine is still out). A chunk of inner
sidewall has a large
Sorry - personal pet peeve. Comes all the weenies at work who can't do
ANYTHING without being sent to training first.
Just a Moose Friday thing -- --
On 11/18/05, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
HUH
On Nov 18, 2005, at 8:49 PM, OK Don wrote:
Why is it that EVERYONE is
well, possible. When I first bought the SD, I had the compression checked -
all was fine but for one...but it turned out that the valve was sticking pretty
good, so that PROBABLY solved that - never tested compression again.
Oddly, with the oidle having been adjusted up for a day now, the
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Marshall wrote:The 124/126/201 central locking systems
are powered by an electric vacuum pump and seem to fail FAR less often
Hmmm I wonder how difficult it would be to install a vacuum pump in-line
with the main vacuum system? Surely the electrical system
In my recent experience, the answer is until (1) fuel is gone, or (2) it
gets dark, or (3) you can't stand the mono valve full open any longer.
Scott Ritchey, Kittrell, NC
1982 300 SD 225K miles
1979 300 TD 355K miles
The question is in the subject line
Actually there is another option too: local VW shop sells VW accessory oil
pan heaters that are paper thin and glued to the bottom of the pan (after
thorough cleaning, of course) with a special paste. Cost for this is about
the same as the block heater.
No
G,M. .. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
this company is incredible they make some of the best desigines for all
matter of stuff
i replaced a few of thoes gm diesel motors with chevy gas engines
one fella bought a 70 400 ci engine that was in some kids nova and we put it
in a coupe deville ...with
man i havent heard that in a hunderd years that was doen to control
preignition in gas engines ...did it work ? i had a car that ran 10 to 1
compression ratio i never tried it
how ever i did and still do add 1 qt to the oil and drive for 100 mi or so
before changing
atf has a lot of
So, if Don counted the 1897 O-rings correctly, that is over 2,000 pieces,
counting 47 vac. Tees and Xes.
On 11/18/05, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
All the vacuum operated diaphragms - doors, ACC, fuel shut off
ACC air control flap seals
1897 o-rings in various places
axle boots
ball
If you are concerned about getting oil to all the bearings first, just keep
the manual Stop lever pushed while cranking it with a boost charger hooked
to the battery.
On 11/18/05, B Dike [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Luther,
Here's what I would do: First I would remove the valve cover and drip oil
Chill man, I think he was referring to GM's lack of training with their
technitions on the GM diesels.
sorry in my opinion they were converted gas engines and go along with GM's
other bright ideas like the V8-6-4 they had in the caddy... and GM tried to
make a diesel out of something that
Wasn't that the old reliable 350ci motor they converted and called a
Giesel with that crappy rotary IP stuck down the distributor hole, that
lasted 40k miles max.
On 11/19/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Chill man, I think he was referring to GM's lack of training with their
that very same one, and if the temp dropped below 50F you better have a can of
ether around
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL 108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata
-Original Message-
From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL
If you have a JC Whitney around they sell what they call the Zero Start that
connects to a hose and it heats and circulates the coolant. Not sure what hose
it connects to though
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL 108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata
-Original
The Zero Start plumbs into the heater hoses and sets you back about $ 55. If
you keep the heater fan running, it be nice and cozy in the car on a cold
morning. Whitney also sells the oilpan pad heaters. About $ 45.
On 11/19/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If you have a JC Whitney
Hope all is well with you, don't see you on the list now days.
I want to buy a ball joint tool for the lowers on my SDL and I seem to recall
you knew of a low cost one.
Where I live there are very few shops with MB experience and not many MBs. I
would have to travel 80 miles to a dealer and
Steve MacSween wrote:
Actually there is another option too: local VW shop sells VW accessory oil
pan heaters that are paper thin and glued to the bottom of the pan
But does that do any good other than thinning the oil?
I'm thinking the head and cylinders would still be stone cold.
its usually best to find accessory source in your fuse box that is switched.
There should be some open spaces in your fuse box. Its the safest way to go
because if you are going to draw extra power you will need to add a fuse to
protect your wiring and electrical system
69 280 SEL 120,000
they don't really thin the oil, what they do is keep the oil warmed enough
where it will flow, but not to much where it will thin out. I had a heating
pad, what I call it on my older VW and the oil temp usually stayed around 75 F
even when it was -10 outside
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL
Thick oil is one issue. It slows down cranking until you can't develop
enough heat to start the engine.
A cold engine is a second, and most often secondary issue. But a cold engine
is usually a problem with a tired engine or low battery.
The third issue that almost no one thinks about is a cold
Oil at 75F is a lot thinner than oil at -10F. In other words, the heater
thins the oil to where it wuld be at 75F.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday,
it doesn't really thin it out, more like keeps it from getting cold and thick
like molasses
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL 108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata
-Original Message-
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes mailing list' [EMAIL
OK, it's a matter of symantics.
Oil at 75F is thinner than oil at -10F, but I guess you are referring to
when oil gets very thin, lets say at 220F?
But thinner is thinner...
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
When brushes go bad alternator/battery light will not come on. To
temporarily fix problem hit alternator with a broom stick, hammer handle,
etc. This will give you another 50-60 miles.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 01:34:16 -0500 Steve MacSween
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The question is in the subject line
Actually there is another option too: local VW shop sells VW accessory
oil pan heaters that are paper thin and glued to the bottom of the pan
(after thorough cleaning, of
Where's the best place to find switched and unswitched power?
The fuse box looks too tidy to disturb...
Probably irrelevant, but on a SDL there is an auxiliary power
distribution
panel under the driver's footrest. Your car may have something similar.
That said, adding a ring terminal
The fuse box is intended for power distribution but to keep things tidy
you want to get power from somewhere else? To put it plainlyDo you look
at the fusebox every day to see if it is tidy? Use the part of the car
like it is intended and it will perform as expected. That's kinda like
go for it dude
Gary Hurst wrote:
a very interesting post about a car i've always flirted with getting.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz
Actually there is another option too: local VW shop sells VW accessory
oil
pan heaters that are paper thin and glued to the bottom of the pan
(after
thorough cleaning, of course) with a special paste. Cost for this is
about
the same as the block heater.
The chicken wagon came with one of
David wrote:
Lee Levitt wrote:
I just realized that my trunk *should* be locking/unlocking
with the
driver's door. Well, it's not.
Other locks operate as expected.
What should I be looking at? Disconnected line or broken mechanism?
Most likely it's a bad or disconnected
Grrr...
My car keeps blowing the center brake light bulb. Other two brake light
bulbs are fine...this one blows the bulb immediately.
Any thoughts?
The joys of buying a car from someone less fanatical than me. Grrr...
TIA,
Lee
'93 300D 2.5L turbodiesel 179K
where are you located anyways?
Smith, Todd wrote:
Hello Tony,
I have no evidence that the master cylinder has been recently replaced. As
several others on this list have mentioned, the PO ran the car into the ground
and then dumped it. I had purchased the car to replace my gas car and as
Kevin wrote:
On Fri, Nov 18, 2005 at 03:38:50PM -0800, David Brodbeck wrote:
That's not uncommon on cars where 5th is a tall overdrive and top speed
is drag-limited instead of governed. In 5th gear the engine may be too
far behind the torque peak to overcome the aerodynamic resistance at
wouldnt be surprised if you have to tow start it.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
my '82 300D hasn't been titled in at least 10 years, and probably hasn't
been run in as long. I want to make an attempt to start it this weekend.
I did put the 27mm socket on the crank pully, and it feels normal. The
I don't know if I trust wheels and brake system yet
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 10:16:30 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
wouldnt be surprised if you have to tow start it.
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (Slate grey, black
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 10:12:21 -0600 tom savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kevin wrote:
Someone please correct me (I left engineering and went into econ for a
reason), but I believe that aerodynamic drag increases with the square
of velocity, while the power needed to overcome that drag
Good to see you back, Jim. Hadn't seen a post from you in a while! I miss
the Chicken Wagon Chronicles...
Gary Thompson
1995 E320
1984 300D
On 11/19/05, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The chicken wagon came with one of these...
why would you need brakes? If the tires hold air dont see a problem.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
I don't know if I trust wheels and brake system yet
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 10:16:30 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
wouldnt be surprised if you have to tow start it.
--
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-PRETTY-GOOD-RUNNING-CAR_W0QQitemZ4591617447QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74
Luther Gulseth wrote:
help me compile a list of the rubber suspension/hoses/belts/etc parts that
will probably need replacing when they deteriorate in a 123.
You're putting too much thought into this. When it comes to rubber and
cars as old as a w123, the list is generally as follows:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-Diesel-1992-Mercedes-300D-2-5-Turbo-Diesel_W0QQitemZ4590286513QQcategoryZ6335QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76
why would you need brakes? If the tires hold air dont see a problem.
For a _tow_ start!? Yeah, you'd want brakes all right.
-- Jim
with a 2 wheel dolly you dont
Jim Cathey wrote:
why would you need brakes? If the tires hold air dont see a problem.
For a _tow_ start!? Yeah, you'd want brakes all right.
-- Jim
___
For new parts see official list sponsor:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-280e-77-280e-73k-mi-excellent-condition-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ4590284535QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-190-Series-190D-190D-Mercedes-Benz_W0QQitemZ4590933660QQcategoryZ6328QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74
if i had a good truck
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 14:05:10 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
with a 2 wheel dolly you dont
Jim Cathey wrote:
why would you need brakes? If the tires hold air dont see a problem.
For a _tow_ start!? Yeah, you'd want brakes all right.
--
you are not much of a man without a big truck
Luther Gulseth wrote:
if i had a good truck
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 14:05:10 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
with a 2 wheel dolly you dont
Jim Cathey wrote:
why would you need brakes? If the tires hold air dont see a
Why don't you donate your Chev truck to the cause then? You've got a burb
back now
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 14:25:49 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
you are not much of a man without a big truck
Luther Gulseth wrote:
if i had a good truck
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005
i have no money :(
On 11/19/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
go for it dude
Gary Hurst wrote:
a very interesting post about a car i've always flirted with getting.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81
A gasser Actually, it isn't located too far from where Megan might go to
college.
On 11/19/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
sell me one of your cars dude
Gary Hurst wrote:
i have no money :(
On 11/19/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
go for it dude
Gary Hurst wrote:
a very interesting post about a car i've always flirted with getting.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87
see, there ya go. perfect car for her.
LT Don wrote:
A gasser Actually, it isn't located too far from where Megan might go to
college.
On 11/19/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So you want to buy my very powerful 6.5 turbodiesel dually?
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Why don't you donate your Chev truck to the cause then? You've got a burb
back now
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 14:25:49 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
you are not much of a man without a
Steve MacSween wrote:
The question is in the subject line
Actually there is another option too: local VW shop sells VW accessory oil
pan heaters that are paper thin and glued to the bottom of the pan (after
thorough cleaning, of course) with a special paste. Cost for this is about
the same
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
it doesn't really thin it out, more like keeps it from getting cold and thick
like molasses
If engine oil doesn't thin out more at 70 deg F than at -10, then the
laws of physics have been violated!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to
where do you get BUY from DONATE??
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 15:09:01 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
So you want to buy my very powerful 6.5 turbodiesel dually?
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Why don't you donate your Chev truck to the cause then? You've got a
burb
back
Let me see how her scholarship applications play out first.
On 11/19/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
see, there ya go. perfect car for her.
LT Don wrote:
A gasser Actually, it isn't located too far from where Megan might
go to
college.
On 11/19/05, Kaleb C.
Real don't NEED a big truck to compensate.
On 11/19/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
you are not much of a man without a big truck
--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
Lee Levitt wrote:
Grrr...
My car keeps blowing the center brake light bulb. Other two brake light
bulbs are fine...this one blows the bulb immediately.
Any thoughts?
The joys of buying a car from someone less fanatical than me. Grrr...
The center high mount stop lamp has an isolated (not
Need something to keep books with. Am I correct quickbooks is the best?
Where is the cheapest place to get it? Ebay?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
rumor has it that Kaleb wrote:
why would you need brakes? If the tires hold air dont see a problem.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
I don't know if I trust wheels and brake system yet
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 10:16:30 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wouldnt be surprised if you
rumor has it that Kaleb wrote:
Need something to keep books with. Am I correct quickbooks is the best?
Where is the cheapest place to get it? Ebay?
SQL-Ledger.
It's open source - and free unless you want a manual or service contract.
I've been running it for about 4 years now. Good
www.softwaremedia.com
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2005 4:21 PM
To: Banned List; Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] looking for book
Ditto.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2005 3:17 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Opinions? Block heater vs. in-line
Hey there, we got another gasser last night, a Euro '72 450SL. Needs a few
things done to it, but overall a good buy. I read that these engines are
supposed to be pretty tough, and this one's only got 169k on it.
It's got ac cruise, the fan still works, but haven't gotten the hood open
If you try tow starting with no brakes on the towed car be sure to use the
same make and model for a tow car so you can use the front and rear ends to
make a new car after you rear end the one you are towing with.
There is a reason some animals eat thier young.
Mike
- Original Message
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