Didn't know that or wasn't paying attention, anyway I applied for a sub but
Kaleb will probably turn me down because I am such a crap stirrer.
I'll ask over there for opinions but thank you to everyone who has replied
thus far.
- Original Message -
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
It seems than at Sat, 21 Jul 2007 16:45:25 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
For lugnuts a ratchet is TOTALLY the wrong tool and its real easy to
break 'em unless you've got a 3/4 ratchet...The right tool is a lug wrench
thats
shaped like a crank.
Truth be told, the best tool (open
It seems than at Sun, 22 Jul 2007 12:38:55 +0930, Hendrik wrote:
I was going to say something about penguins but this is a family list.
There is a Linux list for us weirdos...
Linux Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
So I am seriously thinking of challenging myself to learn how to install/use
It seems than at Sat, 21 Jul 2007 22:34:17 -0500, Wonko wrote:
If you want easy, send me your mailing address (off-list) and I will send
you a couple of CDs. Mepis and Ubuntu install as no-brainers. ... And each
has one CD, not 22.
Fine if your choice in software matches the distro
Hendrik,
You can save yourself some aggravation by doing a few things.
First get Avast antivirus. It's FREE and is constantly updated!
http://www.avast.com/eng/download-avast-home.html You need to register to
get a key but that's it! No hassles no bull.
Also get Kerio Personal Firewall if
E M wrote:
I'm on my back in a foot of snow at times, changing the oil before
I'll take a car in now!
That's the Porsche, not the Benz, right?
Mitch.
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used
I have deep sockets, 3/4 drive tools, impact wrench - and the
best tool I've found for removing lugs is...
the (silly) factory lug wrench and a $5 rubber mallet.
I also. Every time, I go to the trunk of the 250C to get
its (crank-shaped) factory wrench. That and the mallet.
I wish I had
AFAIK and I admittedly don't TIG weld, welding 4130 with TIG is the same as
welding mild steel, same welder and filler, no special rod required.
The only time you need special rod is if you're arc welding 4130.
-Curt
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:15:01 -0700
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Pretty much. They flex above a certain torque value.
It's good that they are using them, however, all cars
don't have the same lug nut/bolt torque.
As soon as I get home from a tire replacement or wheel
removal, I bust 'em all loose and retorque them to
spec myself. I also use anti-seize on
I've got a Craftsman 19.2v drill set and as soon as funds allow I'm going to
supliment it with an impact wrench.
A friend has a 12v Snap-on impact wrench thats terrific just almost as powerful
as a good air impact. With luck the 19.2v Craftsman will as impressive.
-Curt
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007
Probably they've been sued a few times for leaving the lugs loose. So
getting the wrench to click proves that they are at least at a minimum
torque, probably a lot more.
Once they get sued a few times for bending wheels by over/incorrect
tightening, they might take the time to do it right.
The
Did you use JB Weld or JB Kwik? Weld is MUCH stronger but takes longer to set.
Its also alot stronger the closer you get to a 50% mix with the hardner, more
hardner makes it less strong.
I've made some good repairs with JB over the years but often times it takes
alot of it...
In this case did
If you can install XP, you can install all but the most arcane linux
distros. It's been a few years since I last set up a Debian box, but
at that time their install process was not as seamless as RedHat of
the same era.
Most of the mainstream distros now have GUI installers with sane
defaults.
Sunil,
You're the doctor-diagnose yourself and then the rest of us will also have
diagnosis as well. Could be useful, e.g. My doctor says I have to buy
antoher MB diesel in order to be well. Good luck on the TD.
Dwight
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D-250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
Anti-size acts as a lubricant actually lets you over torque your lug
nuts/bolts.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of LWB250
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 8:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
When I was in the generator business I had a rule: If
I find JB Weld on your truck, you're fired. Granted,
it was a liability thing, considering the nature of
the equipment we serviced.
That being said, a few years ago I had a pump housing
on a spa pump that had become porous due to cavitation
I used a bit of parafin on the threads last time, per Dr. Booth's
recommendatian.
Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Anti-size acts as a lubricant actually lets you over torque your
lug nuts/bolts.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
I'm thinking maybe from a Saab Sonnet.
Mike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Looks like maybe an old SAAB wheel..
As soon as I read 15 4 bolt I was thinking Saab 99/900, but
I don't recognize that wheel. I can guarantee it's not Saab
from the 1970's, but I guess newer is
Many say not to use it, but I always use a little. When I took the first
wheel on my benz, you could feel and unever drag on the threads, as you
often do with dry lugs. More than the treads, I like a little on the bell
of the bolt, where it meets the rim. A little goes a long way, as you get
The porsche goes away in the winter and I haven't had the benz a year yet,
but I suspect the benz will get it's winter changes that way. I wouldn't
find the right sucker for it, so I just did it the last twice from the
bottem. It really takes no time to do it from the bottom of the benz and
I think there's something to that!! Their lawyers would rather have you
driving around with a worped rotor than to lose a wheel. hee hee And many
subscribe to the thought, that if one extra turn is good, two is better. :-)
Ed
300E
On 22/07/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Probably
We better change the title of the tread. You guys are talking about over
torquing lug nuts, and then go on about using impact wrenches and mallets!!
ha ha ha Come on guys, eat your Wheaties, it's only 80 lbs/f or so. hee
hee.
Ed the He-man :-)
300E
On 22/07/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
We better change the title of the tread. You guys are talking about
over torquing lug nuts, and then go on about using impact wrenches
and mallets!! ha ha ha Come on guys, eat your Wheaties, it's only
80 lbs/f or so. hee hee.
I have an air gun, 1/2 drive, and
Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Go to http://www.distrowatch.com/ to see what's popular and read
mini-reviews.
http://www.pcbsd.org/
Had not seen this before. I've always been partial to the BSD flavor
of unix, which includes [Open|Free|Net] BSD and also, in the
commercial realm, Mac
Whoops looks like I misread that -- it's their 1.4 release that's in
Beta, the prior release (1.3) is stable.
http://www.pcbsd.org/index.php?p=learnhome
Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
http://www.pcbsd.org/
Had not seen this before. I've always been partial to the BSD
flavor of
Like ya'll, I had a similar thing happen - forgive if anyone has heard
this story - I was a electricians apprentice working on the USS JFK - in a
small space with a 440V cabinet with 4 big cables sticking out that had been
cut off. The procedure was to tape the cut ends but it had not been
Ed,
Fasteners have a dry torque setting and a wet (lubricated) torque setting.
When you tighten any fastener to a specific torque, you are really
pre-tenseling the bolt shaft - it stretches acts like a spring and the
spring tension keeps everything locked together. This is why you can cut off
My uncle used to be a DC crane repairman at Bethlehem Steel (Lackawanna,
NY). These are the cranes that reach out into the yard pick up 100's of
tons of steel at a time. Part of their safety procedure was to wrap a steel
chain around the track to short out the buss bars because one of the
I was called in to do a forensic analysis of an 800A
480V 3 phase automatic transfer switch that an
electrician had dropped an adjustable wrench in -
live.
The wrench fell into the switch, landed across 2 of
the mains lugs, vaporized, the slag blowing back up
into the mechanism, shorting across
Lock-out Tag-out!
ALWAYS test -- saves lives!
Peter
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Tom,
Thanks, that's a lot of GREAT info and I'll be sure to bookmark the link
too. One of my engineering friends who also vintage races old cars had a
really good book, just on bolts, fasteners etc. Went into detail about how
a lug bolt is designed to have some bend so as to cushion the shock
That's good news.
Brian
On 7/22/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
AFAIK and I admittedly don't TIG weld, welding 4130 with TIG is the same as
welding mild steel, same welder and filler, no special rod required.
The only time you need special rod is if you're arc welding 4130.
Yeah, on this bike frame repair, I believe I used regular JB, not the
Kwik stuff. I didn't really get in there and scrape things or prepare
it much though.
JB Kwik story: Driving my 68 Coronet from MN to MD, I had an
alternator bolt fly out at speed and be thrown by the fan into the
radiator (I
I've tried it, its okay, nothing special. Harder to get apps for than Mepis or
the other normal linux distros. I saw no great advantages.
-Curt
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 11:00:00 -0400
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] [OT] Linux drivers wanted
To: Mercedes Discussion List
I don't think it's from the type III Sonnett - might be from an
earlier one though.
On 7/22/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm thinking maybe from a Saab Sonnet.
Mike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Looks like maybe an old SAAB wheel..
As soon as I read
I used quick steel to fix a motorcylcle engine case and it never leaked a
drop.
Met a gent in Alabama with a D9 Cat..Kept blowing head gaskets for
some reason or another, I was a teenager and had no clue about a diesel
then. He cleaned the hell out of it and applied a layer of JB where the
Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
http://www.pcbsd.org/
Had not seen this before. I've always been partial to the BSD flavor
of unix, which includes [Open|Free|Net] BSD and also, in the
commercial realm, Mac OS X.
Curt wrote:
I've tried it, its okay, nothing special. Harder
25-250ft-lb torque wrench. Proudly 100% made in the USA. Retails for $225+
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=300130720143ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:ITih=020
When the head to timing chain cover bolts arrive from Rusty, I can confidently
install the new head. I don't trust the $10
Interesting. I have already changed the AT fluid and filter twice in
maybe 5-6000 miles. Last time something is leaking on the pan so I
was going to drop the pan again, and figgered I may as well change it again.
Loren
At 09:04 PM 7/19/2007, you wrote:
the first time, a couple hours
Be darned sure you don't overtorque the pan bolts.
They only need something like 14 inch-pounds (NOT
ft-lbs!)
I've seen more tranny pans that are all wacked out of
square than I care to recall because some ham-handed
idiot was using a 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet to tighten the
pan bolts (present company
Is this like the VW ad, Drivers wanted? If so, Whats a Linux? Is
in a competitor to the Maybach? I might be interested in driving one!
FOS tonight. Sorry Hendrik for hijacking your thread. I just could
not resist the other meaning for Drivers Wanted
Loren Faeth
LWB250 wrote:
When I was in the generator business I had a rule: If
I find JB Weld on your truck, you're fired. Granted,
it was a liability thing, considering the nature of
the equipment we serviced.
There's a fellow on a tractor forum who HATES JB Weld,
or JBCan'tWeld as he calls it.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm thinking maybe from a Saab Sonnet.
Every 97 I've seen had five lugs. I think the same
applies to 95s and 96s.
Mitch.
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For
It's been a while since I recall seeing this topic, so I thought I'd
make sure that it remains forefront in our minds ;-)
Two weeks ago the SDL started loping at idle - not enough to see the
tach needle swing, but enough to be disconcerting. Two days ago the
ACC stopped working - totally. No
In the early 1970's we broke a distributor rotor in the Travelall
on the way home from vacation. Died within 100 yards of a service station,
or dad managed to coast there. It was the Sunday before Labor Day. Service
station did not have a distributor rotor for a V8 International truck engine,
but
dropped the pismo today in a parking lot
now one of the batteries goes from 4% to 97% and visa versa and you
can't run the thing with any power adapter anymore.
suggestions?
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For new parts see official list sponsor:
other than beat the kid?
You seem to have cracked or smacked something that will now cost you
four times what you have invested. Sell me the laptop for $25.
Look for the power board on eBay and hope that solves the issue. The
battery might have dislodged its micro chip telling it to have
Ok folks, I am losing my sense of humor about the neutral gearshift interlock
on my 74 240D 4-speed. It supposedly keeps the driver from starting the car in
gear, but now it has failed and the starter can't be engaged by the pullknob.
The gearshift position sensor switch is fine, but the
Well, tried out the Harbor Freight welder today. Worked OK I guess, I
have nothing to compare it to and no prior experience, but I was able
to get a patch of 1/8 steel welded onto the mower deck where I needed
it.
Observations -- the wire drive housing is entirely made of plastic
except for the
Hi Everyone,
Have fun waxing and just playing with the 300E today. Was thinking of
changing the 02 sensor just as a maintance thing as I don't know when it was
last done and the car has miles. Think I can find the thing!!! anyway,
it's an '88 300E gasser. Where should I look?
Thanks,
Ed
Sounds great, hope you have a special place reserved for it in the tool
chest. :-)
Ed
300E
On 22/07/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
25-250ft-lb torque wrench. Proudly 100% made in the USA. Retails for
$225+
take a peak under the shift boot. There are two do-hickeys there
with buttons. One even has a power connector on it. Up toward the
front of the shifter. Follow that wire and it will lead you to
nirvana, or maybe jimi hendricks
I do not have a functional neutral lock out on Gump, as she
Well yes you can change it, or you can test it to see if it is working.
Genuine MB sensors are expensive but aftermarket ones can be used.
If you are really keen to chnage it, have a look at your exhaust system,
usually it is just in front of the cat (alytic converter) or it could be
closer to
IMHO, This should be standard maintanence for each 10 year anniversary. Or
sooner if mysterious problems arise, as sometimes it *really* is that
simple.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
On my 74, there was a relay under the drivers side of the dash, just to the
left of the steering wheel. I pulled the relay and inserted a jumper wire,
as I recall. I am also the one that suggested you check the AC/Start relay on
the firewall, which as you state is not the problem.
Jim
If you need to buy welding helmet, I suggest you try one of the Instant
Darkening types. I bught one when I got my MIG and the helmet was the
highlight of the deal although the welder works pretty good once the power
and wire feed settings are optimized.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91
My 2.5 turbo sold on ebay, WAY TOO CHEAP. Geez. As cheap as it went, I
cant believe somebody here didnt buy it. Now THAT is insane.
Sunil Hari wrote:
Just sold my 92 300D to John Robbins - he drove up from Mississippi
overnight, took a drive and loved it, paid, and left.
Now of course,
And put a dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new one.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.
-
might want to keep the CD then, no way you are going to get anywhere
near 2k wrecked.
eric peterson wrote:
Thanks for the replies. I did end up purchasing the
380SE it was better than I expected. 112K dealer
stamped book up thru about 80K. No service records
per se but from the dealer
speaking of wagons, I bought this really nice 87 300TD, red with tan,
150k on it. Had it about a month, only drove it once. Geez, I shouldnt
let it sit, wonder what I should do with it.
Kevin Kraly wrote:
What is wrong with me?
You've got the MB Dieselitis Bug, and the only cure is to
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
speaking of wagons, I bought this really nice 87 300TD, red with tan,
150k on it. Had it about a month, only drove it once. Geez, I shouldnt
let it sit, wonder what I should do with it.
Take pictures?
___
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H...I'll have to go to the local Volvo/Saab graveyard and have a
look see.I have seen a wheel like that and if it wasn't on a
Sonnet I am stumped.
Maybe an older Volvo..they has 15's but I don't recall how many lugs.
Mike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm thinking maybe from
Where can I purchase this mythical crack filler?
On 7/19/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Just read an interesting article about refinishing seats. SOme of you have
talked about Leatherique, etc and some other methods - this article says the
leather seats are treated very similarily to
So if you only reset the trip counter when the vehicle is stationary
does this GUARANTEE that the odometer will NEVER break???
On 7/19/07, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
However it is good practise to only reset the tripmeter when the car is
stopped, particularly on the 123 chassis.
yea I need to. Need to wash and wax it first though, paint is kind of
dull but will buff right back.
John Robbins wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
speaking of wagons, I bought this really nice 87 300TD, red with tan,
150k on it. Had it about a month, only drove it once. Geez, I shouldnt
www.leatherique.com
Tell George I sent you and that you're on a Mercedes
list - he'll give you a good deal (I get nothing from
this other than to let him know I'm spreading the word
as a courtesy - he's a really nice guy and very good
businessman.)
You'll have to snip a small piece of the
and I'll make sure it's the copper stuff not the alum. ;-)
Ed
300E
On 22/07/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
And put a dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new one.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results
John, you JUST BOUGHT MINE. Do you really want another Kaleb car?
On 7/22/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
yea I need to. Need to wash and wax it first though, paint is kind of
dull but will buff right back.
John Robbins wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
speaking of wagons,
On my 74, it would start in any gear, but the wiring on that thing was
futzed to no end. But check under the shift boot (where the reverse light
switch is).
Could it be because of the safety interlock switch that wouldn't let you
start the car without the seatbelt fastened? Most 115's have had
I had a look around the exhaust manifold with no luck, tried to find a wire
to trace ect. I checked on Rusty's site and I think he has them for about
$100 or so, and I think that's with the wire and exact fit, so no splicing
or anything. I have one of those sockets with a slit in the side, that
For those of you in Canada, you can usually find all the different sizes
real cheap in Canadian Tire. I do them on my porsche as Larry says. I also
put a dab of dielectric grease on the ends of each and give them a spin
ffrom time to time. I've never had a fuse, connection, or ground related
I am losing my sense of humor about the neutral gearshift interlock on
my 74 240D 4-speed. It supposedly keeps the driver from starting the
car in gear, but now it has failed and the starter can't be engaged by
the pullknob. The gearshift position sensor switch is fine, but the
I don't know if the Pismo has the same battery internal firmware as the
Wallstreet, but you may want to see if the battery reset program is
available from apple.
Otherwise, either the charge board or the battery itself is damaged.
This is a reminder that laptop computers are fragile.
The electrical connector is under the carpet on the passenger side
front floor. Sensor is in front of the catalytic convertor, on top.
Peter
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andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
So if you only reset the trip counter when the vehicle is stationary
does this GUARANTEE that the odometer will NEVER break???
No.
Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230
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For new parts see
Sunil Hari wrote:
John, you JUST BOUGHT MINE. Do you really want another Kaleb car?
He's only had it a month! I can 'just look' ;)
As an aside... the 300D made the trip just fine! Actually made it back
at around midnight last night (still not sure how we pulled that one
off). The car
All VDO odometers eventually fail, although mine in the 300D is going
on 270,000 miles with no trouble yet. The one in the TE croaked at
less than 200,000 -- trip odometer won't flip over past 0.9 miles.
Peter
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For new parts see
Andrew..
About as much as there is a GUARANTEE that if you eat and drink some
prescribed diet, you will live forever!
There are NO NEVER BREAK or LIVE FOREVER Guarantees.
But, you can replace your broken Craftsman wrench w/no concern as to
calendar Your offspring can do that!
NO. Go to your room, young man! Just looking turns into lust, and lust
turns into money changing hands, and eventually Kaleb will send a title.
On 7/22/07, John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Sunil Hari wrote:
John, you JUST BOUGHT MINE. Do you really want another Kaleb car?
He's only
So it passed through a rubber gromit or something? Thanks Peter, I'll have
a look around tomorrow, or tonight with a light if I can't sleep.
Ed
300E
On 22/07/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The electrical connector is under the carpet on the passenger side
front floor. Sensor
Yup.
Peter
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On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 20:50:10 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My 2.5 turbo sold on ebay, WAY TOO CHEAP. Geez. As cheap as it went, I
cant believe somebody here didnt buy it. Now THAT is insane.
You're right, $3,755.00 is cheap.
Craig
That's like asking, If I change my oil regularly will my engine never
break?
Unfortunatley with the mechanical odo's they will break eventually, even if
you only reset when stopped. It is a ordinary design and there is no way of
fixing that.
What I am saying is that conventional wisdom is to
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:04:24 -0700 (PDT) LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
www.leatherique.com
Tell George I sent you and that you're on a Mercedes
list - he'll give you a good deal (I get nothing from
this other than to let him know I'm spreading the word
as a courtesy - he's a really nice
if a kaleb car went for that much, i asked for too little for my 2.5t
On 7/22/07, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 20:50:10 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My 2.5 turbo sold on ebay, WAY TOO CHEAP. Geez. As cheap as it went, I
cant believe
on my former 300D, both odos were still working perfectly at 292Kmi.
On 7/22/07, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
That's like asking, If I change my oil regularly will my engine never
break?
Unfortunatley with the mechanical odo's they will break eventually, even
if
you only reset
You should have accepted my first offer
On 7/22/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My 2.5 turbo sold on ebay, WAY TOO CHEAP. Geez. As cheap as it went, I
cant believe somebody here didnt buy it. Now THAT is insane.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of
The only odo that I have that works is in the oldest car - the '78
SLC. They don't make 'em like they used to.
On 7/22/07, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
on my former 300D, both odos were still working perfectly at 292Kmi.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies:
Another '92 300D 2.5 Turbo I was watching just ended at $3000. Looks
like the market is crashing. It's time to buy
On 7/22/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You should have accepted my first offer
On 7/22/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My 2.5 turbo sold on ebay,
My A/C has a slow leak since conversion to the new R. Is there a kit of
O-Ring for a 123 to solve the problem
If there is a fitting too difficult to turn, can a matte of
exposy wrapped around the fitting hold under the pressure
TIA
Bill
1981 300 TD
Hijack thread!
MULTIQUIP DCI-500SSW trailer mounted 500 amp DC arc welder/4500 watt
generator, ISUZU diesel
MULTIQUIP BLW-300SS trailer mounted 300 amp DC arc welder/10 KW
generator, MITSUBISHI diesel
BOSS trailer mounted light tower w/LINCOLN Ranger 10 arc welder/
generator, 3 cyl
speaking of wagons, I bought this really nice 87 300TD, red with tan, 150k
on it. Had it about a month, only drove it once. Geez, I shouldnt let it
sit, wonder what I should do with it?
Well, if it sits another month and a half, I'll have some money saved up.
Man, that's quite tempting! Has
My A/C has a slow leak since conversion to the new R. Is there a kit of
O-Ring for a 123 to solve the problem
Harbor Freight has an assortment of green O-rings that is
usually $10 on sale, I think $15 regular price. No doubt
suitable rings are to be found in it.
If there is a fitting
All VDO odometers eventually fail, although mine in the 300D is going
on 270,000 miles with no trouble yet. The one in the TE croaked at
less than 200,000 -- trip odometer won't flip over past 0.9 miles.
The Chicken Wagon's odometer has finally succumbed to this malady.
It's the first such
Mine is still ticking at 340,000 kms in the 300E. It's funny this is
brought up as I'm looking at several cars now. Once they say the cars odo
doesn't work, I usually walk away from it. Do you guys take your cars with
brokes odos in to a shop for an oil change once in a while, just for the
What kind of miles do these cars have, and can you expect some kind of
service history with these cars?
Ed
300E
On 23/07/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Another '92 300D 2.5 Turbo I was watching just ended at $3000. Looks
like the market is crashing. It's time to buy
On 7/22/07, OK
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