I think that's a vacuum switch over valve. One line goes to the throttle
valve and the other goes to your distributor. You've been running all this
time with mechanical advance only.
Dan Caron
- Original Message - =
From: Shelly Wiens =
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 11:02 AM
Subject: dan caron clan registration
-- next part --
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: REGISTRATION INFO.RTF
Type: application/octet-stream
Gee, why don't you tell us how you really feel?
The fact is, there are a lot of people who are dead, dying or soon to die.
While everyone points fingers the rest of us are high and dry with full
bellies. Are you saying we should just let them all rot in a cesspool that
used to be a city?
Surely
Where do you live?
From what you tell us, anyone is in peril if they live in the USA. It's
what you've been told for the past few years? Terrorists, right?
Never mind civil unrest, tornadoes, hurricanes, wild fires, mud slides,
earth quakes, floods, blizzards, ice storms, drought, too much
Seems to be a responsible view - everyone looking out for themselves in case a
disaster strikes. Makes good sense really...
However, look at what happened. The State level of government was just as
smashed up as everything around it. It would seem that after they went through
the storm it
NFG! If someone posted my home phone number on this list without my
knowledge or consent I'd probably kick his ass all the way to the curb. If
you have some sort of problems with him why don't you sort it out off list?
Giving people his email is one thing. Giving people his phone number
Well. when ever I call his place he always says hello. Never VRX
and never the answering machine. I'm not pro Richard, I'm not against him
either.
I'm waiting to see my site come back up just like some other people might
be. If it was a flat amount I'd know how much I'm out or need
They almost never work once they screw up. I had a guy tell me he could fix
one for me but this is pretty much a Bosch rebuild.
I undo each line one at a time on a running engine. Anything that doesn't
have fuel flow is bad.
Had a ride in a LWB 600 two years ago. I sat up front with the driver while
everyone else piled in the back. This thing had 2 way radio between the
driver and the passengers. Just an incredible car..
It's pretty much restored now - very nice ride.
ahh... I don't recall joining this butt fest so don't be dragging me
into this.
That's, '' MR BENZBARN '' to you buddy.
Need a drivers side door for the 220 Cab A ?
I have a NOS one here.
Well Chuck, that depends if he knows the difference between '' then '' and
'' than. ''
I did a mechanical restoration on a Roadster 3 years ago that sold for
$125,000.00 USD. Seems like a real bargain now.
Rudy did all the repairs on a buddy's '57 Roadster after it bounced off a
guard rail and then got hit by a Gullwing sliding backwards, totally out of
control. No one got hurt
Sad isn't the word for it...
Fortunately, there's even less tolerance in Canada for right wing religious
nuts than there is for politicians.
GOD BLESS AMERICA
(yeah, right )
My newest car is a '81 300SD. Actually, I have two of them along with a
pile of other diesel stuff. Ain't that cheap though. Maintenance costs are
low but if they're screwed cars the parts costs won't make them worthwhile.
One of my SD's is pretty much rust free so I'm going to move towards
Check the coil wire. I've found that some wire sets have a carbon core in
this wire and that won't work on these cars. Fuel pressure and trigger
points fouled out come to mind as possible problems.
Make sure the vacuum line going to the manifold pressure sensor is not
leaking - this will cause
I have a complete set of doors and trunk lid for one of these things. Not
something you see very often these days.
Why should that be news to anyone? We have all sorts of goofy trade
agreements that no one seems to obey. There's always some NAFTA ruling being
handed down about something.
Even though Canada is becoming more European in nature and the US is
becoming ... well, more US ( i.e.
Yup, that's theory alight...
Sorry, I saw the car and not the part you wanted. Actually, I think I have
one of those things.
Dan
You need a few things to make these things work right, aside from the normal
stuff.
working manifold pressure sensor.
30 PSI of fuel pressure
working trigger points
throttle valve switch properly adjusted
throttle linkage and heim joints in good shape
I thought this was supposed to be a temporary measure until Richard got MBZ
back up and running? Now you're saying we don't/didn't need him in the first
place? Nice, very nice...
Is this the hostile take over I kind of thought it was?
The trick is getting the tension on the choke flaps set right. You need
enough so that they close when cold but only enough. Too much and the plugs
can foul out before the engine warms.
The rest is fairly straight forward. You adjust the fast idle speed by
opening the throttles fully and then you
Do you have a fuel pressure regulator in line after the fuel pump. These
carbs only need a few pounds of fuel pressure and the floats may not be able
to shut off anything over 4 or 5 lbs pressure.
A proper fuel pump ( not electric ) might be your first cure. Check your
choke flaps to see if
Thing is, I just did a car with no working return line and no working fuel
cut off. It seems to run OK.
That's so much bull.
I grow corn and right now the price for a bushel is only $2.60 CDN. Do you
know how many boxes of corn flakes one bushel can make?
If there's anything is this country more out of control it's the price
difference paid to producers compared to what consumers pay. There's
The condenser on theses cars is a condenser wire - it has the wire and
condenser as a single connected part. There's two different ones - a round
hole type and a later square hole type.
CD ignition sends very little current through the points and normally the
points will last for years. I have
Ahhh.. no, that's not how it works. The price of food is remarkably
cheap in NA.
2 years ago the price of corn was about twice what is now. Believe me,
nothing makes sense when it comes to commodities pricing. At $20.00 per acre
of net profit farming's not very attractive.
That's probably more info than we need ~)
Why will gear oil cause problems in a MB trans?
Dan
Yeah, too bad it's wrong.
Dan
I prefer these lines when turned down for a dance.
'' Hey, don't thank me. Just thank someone for coming over to ask you in the
first place. ''
'' You looked better from the other side of the room. ''
Just in case anyone would ever have the nerve to call Scott a whiner I can
tell you that what he says is true. Farming in Canada is worse because
support for the industry is pretty low on the radar.
AND, farmers won't really make anything from ethanol fuels. We have to
import corn into Ontario
I have one for you. 1970 with AC.
No, this is 113 280SL.
Too bad. 113's are lots of fun.
I have a 230SL 5 speed well known as the '' Red Rocket. ''
What's the dial indicator for? You guys go beyond dramatic..
MB techs don't use dial gauges to set wheel bearing - they'd be laughed out
of the shop. You either have mechanics feel or you don't. I've never had
problems with any I've done and I always check them after a bit of test
driving.
Setting them with a dial gauge didn't give me any better results
Well, you and Marshall are clearly too smart for me and all those other rip
off mechanics out there.
Tell you what Dan, I'll hire you. You can show me how to do it and pull out
the manual just to prove you're right. Meanwhile, the work will be stacked
up to the ceiling while you piss around with
NE of Detroit about 50 miles right on the Canada Michigan border. But why
would you ask considering I'm such an asshole and everything
Problem is, you're agreeing with the wrong Dan. That's OK, you won't ruin me ~)
Asshole bumpkin,
Dan
Gee dude.. do you have an opinion?
Why don't you tell us a little bit about yourself? Maybe some cars you own or
have restored. How about some of your MB club activities.
Couldn't agree with you more.
However, you weren't the one who was called names by someone who just had to
jump in with nothing useful to say.
Back to our regular programming.
My apologies to the sensitive types around here.
Country bumpkin,
Dan
( Sigh ) go get one of those little pads with all the rubber fingers on
them. I use a 1/4 angle grinder ( air ) to run it. They come in three
different grades - yellow, white and green. Green would probably work best
on cast iron.
These things are great for cleaning all sorts of castings and
( OMG! an intelligent person posts here once in a while ~)
Mike,
I hope you realise by saying anything contrary to popular ( and not
necessarily correct ) belief, and going against lists gods in white lab coats,
that you've crossed over to the dark side where all us A hole misfits live.
I go one small step further and run the engine with water only for cooling
until I'm sure it's OK. Any internal or external leaks can be fixed without
a big mess or antifreeze getting into the engine.
Did you vacuum the head and cylinders while under assembly?
I'm sorry you're offended and it's not a flame war or anything like that. Some
of you take all of this WAY too seriously and miss the overall big picture.
Most mechanics refer to the manual for DA procedures, specific specs or
general information.
We mechanics are just as offended or bruised
Come to Canada. You can get married... legally.
I think it pulls out although you need to be a contortionist to get it out
sometimes.
Ok, I'm talking about the same thing. It's not nice to call people names
just because they have a different point of view. And I got called lots of
interesting names...
I fully understand that if I would have disagreed with some virtual unknown
on the list no one would have even noticed. Who
He probably should removed his wife first
Richard? Is that in the book? Pretty slick idea for a short drive home.
Never fails how someone will drive that extra 1/2 mile to gas station
instead of walking or getting help. Pretty much toasts the engine once you
get over a certain temp for any length of time.
Dan , who toasted his
Rod knocking will get louder as the engine heats up. Cold oil is usually
thick enough to cushion the pounding a bit. On as diesel it may be loud all
the time due to the higher cylinder pressures.
The saying I heard once was ;
To have a 6.3 you need to own a bank.
To have a 600 you need to own a country.
Should work too seeing as there's so many devoted disciples ~)
No, it's a 220D. This is a 115 car right?
A 200D is a 110 fin car, although there may have been a euro 200D in ' 68
that was a 115 sedan.
Chuck, Chuck, such hostility... you could hurt yourself
I've worked on both cars and yes they're as fixable as any other. I have a
6.3 for sale here right now that I did a lot of work on and I've done
several others. I've only worked on one 6.9 but I didn't find it as hard to
I didn't look at the picture, sorry. Someone must have changed it to say
300D on the back? Not unheard of.
No, that one sold last year. It went to NY and then it went back to Germany.
This is a better one.
Dan
I use a big screw driver and it will pop right off. You can remove the ball
stud and try another one to see if it won't turn down on you. It should only
turn with a fair amount of force.
I'd know the difference, believe me. I didn't look at the picture.
I kind of stick it under the rocker and pry up and sideways all at the same
time. The cam lobe needs to be pointing up so it's not under any load.
it sure is.
Depends on what you mean by a fair bit of oil.
I find that my SD leaks out as much oil as it uses ( which isn't that much )
and neither warrant fixing.
Have you checked the injection pump timing and chain stretch? A simple drip
tube works pretty well to time the pump. Black smoke would be
Yeah, ATF is what you use. Fill it to the line you see.
Did you change the filter? It's at the bottom of the tank. Draw all the
old fluid out and you can see it.
Dan
Could be a slight leak at one injector or a lazy glow plug. 800 miles is
pretty good for that mileage. I wouldn't touch anything.
If you have the aluminium distributor it should be set to 30 degrees.
On this car with CD ignition? Just about forever..
I rebuild distributors here with a proper distributor testing machine. CD
ignition stands for capacitive discharge, an early electronic ignition device.
Put a magnet on the housing which should fall off. Pretty easy to see if it's
aluminum or not.
Dan
If you oil the felts on the main shaft through the oiler they last a long time.
The original bushings are usually steel but the replacements are some sort of
brass - possibly self lubricating.
One of the problems on cars with CD ignition is that people never service the
distributor. Since the points will last much longer, the normal light oiling
during change out usually never gets done. The rubbing block needs a bit of
point grease, oil cup on the side of the housing needs a few
Hook your dwell meter right at the end of the green distributor wire where it
goes to a small junction box. There should be a small metal post sticking up -
hook on there. You can't take a reading off the coil like a regular system.
Dan
WAIT A MINUTE HERE !
The other day someone said that Lexus is a pretty good car. No major
failures or some such shit. Anyway, where are they now in the face of
this alarming yet obvious news.
New Benz cars do have a '' few '' problems. Hopefully that will change now.
Dan
My wife and I were travelling once and it was her birthday the next day so I
bought her a Garfield look alike stuffed cat. As we were driving along at
night I hit some animal on the road. She was concerned but I said it was
too dark and that we wouldn't be able help it anyway so we continued on.
Driving through BF northern Ontario once I stopped for lunch. A small crowd
was standing around a wrecker with a car hooked on to the back. The driver
was there unhooking so I walked over to see what was going on.
I couldn't believe what I saw. First of all the roof was pretty much missing
and
Damn deer
we call em '' Rats with antlers ''
All paths to hell were ( are ) paved with good intentions.
Can't say I trust big corporations any more than big government. Saying that
however, I question those who do ALL business in cash. I'll take it, but still
sort of wonder about them, a bit
My observations are that conservatives like to usurp power from you. Even
though they invent trade deals that put people out of work, they bitch about
the lazy people they just put out of work. They seem to be intolerable of
anyone outside of WASP's or at least English speaking white folks with
Spell check won't catch things like this. The words are spelled correctly and
that's all the computer is looking for.
Someone on the list here with a PhD can't figure out the difference between ''
then '' and '' than '' so it's not uncommon.
Maybe is dyslexia.
One thing I do is wipe horizontally on the outside and vertically on the
inside. Once everything dries it's easy to see which side isn't clean by the
direction of the streaks.
Dan
I adjust until they work right. You can tell by how many turns you make on the
fuel screw. If one is 2 turns more than the other the throttle plate openings
aren't equal. I've never used any special tools.
Of course, no one will be inclined to believe this after the wheel bearing
adjustment
You still need to set the dwell angle to 30 degrees if you haven't done that
yet.
As for the carbs; take the linkage off and screw out the idle screws until the
throttles seat in their bores. Turn each screw out 2 turns and then install the
linkage until its free off tension or play. Turn the
If it's an aluminium housing the dwell should be 30 and if it's cast iron it
should be around 38. 41 is OK if it runs well. This is a tricky question
because you seem to have two different systems running on the same car. Dwell
angle appears to be a function of the distributor model and maybe
No they won't work all that well unless you use a T junction in line. Actually,
using a vacuum gauge to set this up isn't all that effective as there's far too
many variables in the system. Late valve timing, late ignition timing, leaking
valves, low compression etc. all influence vacuum
There is none. You have to put one in-line so it won't change or affect other
functions, assuming that they work at all.
Ron Parker?
That's why you need a mighty vac or some sort of vacuum pump for testing out
these circuits. You could have found this in no time years ago.
But, good detective work.
Dan
I know a guy in Toronto that has a gas powered one. Some guy was selling a
bunch of them that were ex Swiss army a few years ago and he bought this one
from him.
Dan
I use a ball peen hammer. Never had one fail or come apart.
Dan
I give you a hammer for free. Cheaper than any tool from MB and very
dependable.
It's never failed for me.
I'm not buying a special tool for a one time job if I can make my own or
improvise. I already have the hydraulic valve adjustment tool that I thought
I so despritatley needed. Sits in the back of the tool box with a bunch of
other '' needed '' tools.
Hey, I'm farm boy and you learn to make do. I used to rivet sections into
a mower knife all the time and this isn't that much different.
There's noting to it if you know what you're doing. Lay the chain in place,
slide the master link in, put the centre piece in and use vice grips and a
small
Oh, I use them. Just not as important as I thought they would be.
My distributor tester? I USE that and it pays to have it around.
Mighty vac? Great tool anyone can use or should have.
Set of end wrenches? A necessity.
Master link crimper? The jury is still out on that one...
Yup. And proud of it too.
I once had a bumper sticker that read:
'' Nuke the gay, unborn, baby whales ''
Not sure why it upset so many activists
This tool is for setting the base measurement on hydraulic lifters. Can't be
done without one.
There's a small pin that rests on top of the lifter along with the tool and
a small red line is on the pin. If it shows red when you place it right you
need a thicker or thinner lash pad under the
It's used for V8 style engines. Everything from 1976 and on. 450, 380, 500,
6.9 and 560 that I've seen. I know some newer diesels have hydraulic
lifters but all the ones I've worked on are mechanical.
However, I was talking about MB tools in general; how expensive they can be
and how little
Well, for christs sake I KNOW what the tool is used for and where it's used,
so in fact I'm not incorrect. Know one asked you to be the unofficial
saviour of benz kind.
You have a lot of nerve to call be uncivilized. For a PhD, you have much to
learn
Gee. Thanks for pointing that out.
I thread was about chain crimp tools. I said that I have a few tools in my
tool box that I rarely use including the base setting tool for hydraulic
lifters. No need to point out to me where it's used or that it's not used
on Diesels.
Someone asked what the
1 - 100 of 121 matches
Mail list logo
