Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I often use a lab coat when working on cars. Luther wrote: and keeps your white lab coat white :D Luther -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
Some years ago I bought some really good white cotton jumpsuits for $1 each at a surplus store. They are size 52 and have some nuclear reactor lapel labels on them. I don't need shop lights or anything when I wear them, and they keep me warm in the winter too! Kinda big on me, but I seem to be growing into them. --R Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: I often use a lab coat when working on cars. Luther wrote: and keeps your white lab coat white :D Luther
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
Me too - I have a dozen or more auto related cloth patches sewn onto it. That and rubber exam gloves completes the picture - ;-) Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 8:14 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine I often use a lab coat when working on cars. Luther wrote: and keeps your white lab coat white :D Luther -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
As long as EVERYTHING grows in proportion I guess you will be OK. Tom Potter -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 8:08 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine Some years ago I bought some really good white cotton jumpsuits for $1 each at a surplus store. They are size 52 and have some nuclear reactor lapel labels on them. I don't need shop lights or anything when I wear them, and they keep me warm in the winter too! Kinda big on me, but I seem to be growing into them. --R Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: I often use a lab coat when working on cars. Luther wrote: and keeps your white lab coat white :D Luther ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I have never pulled one using a leveler, maybe I should get one. OK Don wrote: I'm on Richard's level -done a few, and both ways. I now leave the tranny on the engine - pull them as a unit. I've only done 115/617 and 107/117 chassis though. My cheap Chinese hoist and leveler worked fine with the iron 117 V8 and it's tranny. That leveler is really nice to work with compared to doing the job with out it. I found the 115 with the five cylinder engine to be easier with the rear of the car up as high as I could get it - but that was before I got the leveler. Splitting the engine/tranny after they're out is easy - spin the engine around so the tranny is pointing away from the hoist, set the engine down on blocks of some sort, leaving tension on the hoist chain for extra stability, a chunk of 2X12 on top of a floor jack and under the tranny pan - a helper to keep the tranny from rolling of the floor jack -- unbolt and roll away --- -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
It takes all that pushing and shoving out of the job. On 3/20/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have never pulled one using a leveler, maybe I should get one. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there. Will Rogers '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
Oh yes, this is done on dirt with a single 4'x8' sheet of 3/4 plywood under the crane. On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 07:47:05 -0600, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Luther, you made my day. On 3/19/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If I can pull an engine/tranny (done it twice now) as a unit, anyone can. It's a cake walk. :) On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 09:37:26 -0600, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) head case? '83 300SD (242 kmi) for sale '82 300CD (163 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
and keeps your white lab coat white :D Luther On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 19:11:21 -0600, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It takes all that pushing and shoving out of the job. On 3/20/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have never pulled one using a leveler, maybe I should get one. -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) head case? '83 300SD (242 kmi) for sale '82 300CD (163 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
It doesn't even keep my sneakers white --- On 3/20/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: and keeps your white lab coat white :D Luther -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there. Will Rogers '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I seem to remember reading that earlier MB's had the engine and tranny fitted as a unit from below but later models had the engine and gearbox placed in from the top. I think that is why they went to bonnets(hood) that go fully vertical. Yeah I know what you mean about some of these Chinese goods, I wouldn't contemplate trying to get a big six or V8 out with them but an four banger with alloy head and alloy transmission should be no dramas. The later manual gearboxes only weigh about 30-40kg and can be easily taken and fitted by one pretty strong person. - Original Message - From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 8:46 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I think one of the key things is to have an engine leveller on the engine crane. That way you can alter the angle of the engine and tranny. Also once the unit is out it would make it easier to position the tranny on blocks of wood. If you are tempted to buy a cheap Chinese engine crane, be aware that they sometimes come with an even cheaper engine leveler accessory. I pulled the M180 engine from my W110 with this, and it bent the leveler so much it was unusable thereafter. The crane itself was fine. I pulled that engine with the tranny attached, and it was sooo difficult to get it all out. I had the hood off, radiator out, all accessories off the block, pullys removed, etc. and still ended up crushing a heater tube on the firewall because of the tight clearance. Maybe if I had raised the car first so I could get the engine absolutely vertical without the tranny hitting the floor it would have worked. Oh I also had to remove the drag link from the suspension. The shop manual of course pictured a technician in spotless white coveralls easily removing the equally spotless engine with transmission attached, at a moderate angle. Also I have no idea how this experience will translate to your W123. When I reinstalled I put the tranny in first then the engine it was much easier. Allan --
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
on a MB, you pull the engine and tranny, much easier and thats just the way its done. Hans Neureiter wrote: Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
yea, doing it under the car is WAY worse. The book says pull as a unit, I have always done that an its much easier to do what needs to be done while out of the car. Richard Hattaway wrote: Well, I dont have Kleb's experience level I don't think, but have done this half dozen times so far. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I did pull the pum pan and #1 rod has play. So, you _did_ find the smoking gun! Congratulations, and I'm sorry. I'd still be tempted, given a replacement engine all lined up, to try to slip in one used bearing from another dead engine just to see how it held up. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I'm on Richard's level -done a few, and both ways. I now leave the tranny on the engine - pull them as a unit. I've only done 115/617 and 107/117 chassis though. My cheap Chinese hoist and leveler worked fine with the iron 117 V8 and it's tranny. That leveler is really nice to work with compared to doing the job with out it. I found the 115 with the five cylinder engine to be easier with the rear of the car up as high as I could get it - but that was before I got the leveler. Splitting the engine/tranny after they're out is easy - spin the engine around so the tranny is pointing away from the hoist, set the engine down on blocks of some sort, leaving tension on the hoist chain for extra stability, a chunk of 2X12 on top of a floor jack and under the tranny pan - a helper to keep the tranny from rolling of the floor jack -- unbolt and roll away --- On 3/19/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: yea, doing it under the car is WAY worse. The book says pull as a unit, I have always done that an its much easier to do what needs to be done while out of the car. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there. Will Rogers '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
it won't if it is knocking, there is .040 to .080 wear on the journal. The crank is toast. Loren Faeth
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
If I can pull an engine/tranny (done it twice now) as a unit, anyone can. It's a cake walk. :) On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 09:37:26 -0600, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) head case? '83 300SD (242 kmi) for sale '82 300CD (163 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
The shop manual of course pictured a technician in spotless white coveralls easily removing the equally spotless engine with transmission attached, at a moderate angle. Allan Yeah, Allan, and he did it in 10 minutes with no help. Just like the truck rebuild TV shows.. ROFLMAO Richard (PS I liked the idea of boosting the rear end up even higher, and yes, the car is elevated) Don't pick lemons. See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos. http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
Luther, you made my day. On 3/19/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If I can pull an engine/tranny (done it twice now) as a unit, anyone can. It's a cake walk. :) On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 09:37:26 -0600, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) head case? '83 300SD (242 kmi) for sale '82 300CD (163 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine '85 300D (280,176) parts car ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
It can be tricky, but the Benz specified method works well. The trick is to lift and tilt simultaneously so that you get the bell housing past the drag link before the rear of the tranny drops too far, then pull forward as you rotate back to about 45 degrees and lift to clear the radiator support. Rotate engine back to level to clear as you push the car back. You must remove the hood on pre W123 models. Peter
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
HF has the engine lifts on sale this week. --R
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I recommend getting the 2-ton unit. On my cars, I had to fully extend the boom to avoid hitting the front bumper with the hydraulic cylinder when positioning the engine. -Dave Walton On 3/20/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: HF has the engine lifts on sale this week. --R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] best way to pull an engine
Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I'll defer to other people more experienced than I, but if a mechanic told me he was going to pull the transmission with the engine suspended in mid air, I'd look for another mechanic. Use some wood blocks and let the thing down to earth. Gheez. In the case of the 87SDL and the 94S350, I do not think it is possible to pull the engine alone. The oil pan bolts to both the engine and transmission as I recall. You would have to disassemble the front suspension to drop the oil pan while in the car. -Dave Walton 82 240D, 87SDL, 94S350, 99E300 On 3/19/07, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I have almost always let the trans hang in the car. I can say that it is much easier to put the AUTO trans on the engine outside the car, then install as a unit. Most of what I have done is manual trans. It makes NO sense to me to pull the trans out of the car with an MB 4 speed. I think one time I pulled the pair, and re-installed the engine and trans together. Yes, the torque converter will come out with the engine, you only have to unbolt the bolts that hold the trans to the engine. Removing the 2 top bolts IS a pain without the right tools, but i have done it many times. I have never done this on a 126, so i can't say for sure. OM 603 and TC may not clear the radiator support. I think the 617 will clear. Before you go through this, I still think you should take off the vacuum pump and drop the oil sump pan to be sure you have a bad rod bearing and not something else. At 10:37 AM 3/19/2007, you wrote: Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Loren Faeth
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I did pull the pum pan and #1 rod has play. I have my sights on a very reasonable replacement motor thanks to Kaleb and doing a transplant is likely more economical than attempting a repair. Getting to the tranny flange bolts is not bad if you have a lift long egoungh extensions, which I have both. On 3/19/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have almost always let the trans hang in the car. I can say that it is much easier to put the AUTO trans on the engine outside the car, then install as a unit. Most of what I have done is manual trans. It makes NO sense to me to pull the trans out of the car with an MB 4 speed. I think one time I pulled the pair, and re-installed the engine and trans together. Yes, the torque converter will come out with the engine, you only have to unbolt the bolts that hold the trans to the engine. Removing the 2 top bolts IS a pain without the right tools, but i have done it many times. I have never done this on a 126, so i can't say for sure. OM 603 and TC may not clear the radiator support. I think the 617 will clear. Before you go through this, I still think you should take off the vacuum pump and drop the oil sump pan to be sure you have a bad rod bearing and not something else. At 10:37 AM 3/19/2007, you wrote: Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Loren Faeth ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
When I pulled my 240D I left the AT in place. I also put a block of wood across the TC to make sure it stayed engaged to the primary pump properly. Ya'll are right about the difficult of splitting the engine and AT when both are out of the car. When I removed my 911 engine and its 5-speed I pulled both as a unit. When I unbolted the 2 units, it was a real chore to manipulate the tranny as it is seperated from the engine on the floor. Care must be taken to guarantee no damage is done. Also, when aligning it for reassembly can be tiresome. I had a floor jack under engine and another under the tranny. Was still a chore. If it were me, I'd leave the tranny in the car - and make sure the TC is secured so it cannot move - keeping it engaged is not easy Good luck. Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 11:37 AM Subject: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
Hans, Ok. From the symptoms, i thought from the start it was a bad rod, but it is hard to tell from this distance. I didn't want to see you go to the expense of pulling the engine if, in fact it was a different problem. Best wishes. Loren At 12:07 PM 3/19/2007, you wrote: I did pull the pum pan and #1 rod has play. I have my sights on a very reasonable replacement motor thanks to Kaleb and doing a transplant is likely more economical than attempting a repair. Getting to the tranny flange bolts is not bad if you have a lift long egoungh extensions, which I have both. On 3/19/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have almost always let the trans hang in the car. I can say that it is much easier to put the AUTO trans on the engine outside the car, then install as a unit. Most of what I have done is manual trans. It makes NO sense to me to pull the trans out of the car with an MB 4 speed. I think one time I pulled the pair, and re-installed the engine and trans together. Yes, the torque converter will come out with the engine, you only have to unbolt the bolts that hold the trans to the engine. Removing the 2 top bolts IS a pain without the right tools, but i have done it many times. I have never done this on a 126, so i can't say for sure. OM 603 and TC may not clear the radiator support. I think the 617 will clear. Before you go through this, I still think you should take off the vacuum pump and drop the oil sump pan to be sure you have a bad rod bearing and not something else. At 10:37 AM 3/19/2007, you wrote: Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Loren Faeth ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Loren Faeth
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
Well, I dont have Kleb's experience level I don't think, but have done this half dozen times so far. I leave the tranny on the engine every time, AT or manual. Sorry to not be part of the majority, but it is much easier IMO. I dont want to have to deal with bell housing bolts under the car. Someone said it is a PITA to get the tranny and engine to line up outside the vehicle.. I can only say that doing it under the car has to be worse. The only thing you must do on a 300D level car is to remove the radiator and slide the AC condenser into the grill a bit and out of the way. This is due to the length of the 5 cyl as opposed to the 4 cyl. An SD may present some other issues, I have done only 123's. Then disconnect the flex joint and other paraphanalia to the tranny (please dont forget the lockout wires, they don't stretch... (c: ), put a jack under the back end of the tranny to give it some support, and plan on lifting the engine almost straight up, IE vertical, out of the car. The jack rolls foward with the tranny end till it begins to take flight. A weight/CG shifter on the lift is a handy thing, although I have done it w/o one. If you dont have one, then make a bar with a very short connection to the front of the engine, and a come-along for the rear connection. I do not remove the hood, but instead stand it up vertical. At several points in the adventure, you will find the rear chain slack. Oh yes, remove that pos bracket across the back of the engine for a lift point and replace it with a bit of flat iron or something of your own design. The sheet metal one will bend, which is unnerving as the engine dangles above your favorite car... Oh again, replace the motor mounts while you're there. And those little shocky things on the sides. And spray wash the engine bay, and and and and... Good luck Richard --- Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D __ It's here! Your new message! Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I think one of the key things is to have an engine leveller on the engine crane. That way you can alter the angle of the engine and tranny. Also once the unit is out it would make it easier to position the tranny on blocks of wood. I have a transmission adaptor for my trolley jack, get one of these and once the engine and tranny are out of the car, attach the transmission to the trolley jack and it should make the split easier. - Original Message - From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 4:24 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine When I pulled my 240D I left the AT in place. I also put a block of wood across the TC to make sure it stayed engaged to the primary pump properly. Ya'll are right about the difficult of splitting the engine and AT when both are out of the car. When I removed my 911 engine and its 5-speed I pulled both as a unit. When I unbolted the 2 units, it was a real chore to manipulate the tranny as it is seperated from the engine on the floor. Care must be taken to guarantee no damage is done. Also, when aligning it for reassembly can be tiresome. I had a floor jack under engine and another under the tranny. Was still a chore. If it were me, I'd leave the tranny in the car - and make sure the TC is secured so it cannot move - keeping it engaged is not easy Good luck. Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 11:37 AM Subject: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together. Here's my question: The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit. My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on MB) thinks it be just as easy to pull the engine alone. He worries about splitting the tranny off with the whole thing hanging in mid air. Is he right? Can't the converter stay bolted to the engine? -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.13/726 - Release Date: 18/03/2007 3:34 PM
Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I think one of the key things is to have an engine leveller on the engine crane. That way you can alter the angle of the engine and tranny. Also once the unit is out it would make it easier to position the tranny on blocks of wood. If you are tempted to buy a cheap Chinese engine crane, be aware that they sometimes come with an even cheaper engine leveler accessory. I pulled the M180 engine from my W110 with this, and it bent the leveler so much it was unusable thereafter. The crane itself was fine. I pulled that engine with the tranny attached, and it was sooo difficult to get it all out. I had the hood off, radiator out, all accessories off the block, pullys removed, etc. and still ended up crushing a heater tube on the firewall because of the tight clearance. Maybe if I had raised the car first so I could get the engine absolutely vertical without the tranny hitting the floor it would have worked. Oh I also had to remove the drag link from the suspension. The shop manual of course pictured a technician in spotless white coveralls easily removing the equally spotless engine with transmission attached, at a moderate angle. Also I have no idea how this experience will translate to your W123. When I reinstalled I put the tranny in first then the engine it was much easier. Allan -- 1983 300D 1966 230
