Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-04-09 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Hey Larry hope your doing well. I talked with Wilton the other day, he and his 
wife are doing well.

I think Curly finally replaced the t-stat as well as some other stuff, he 
should update us again.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC


Apr 9, 2020 2:24:11 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes :

> Hello All -
> Back when I had the car, I replaced the Rad when the upper nozzle broke. At 
> that time I cleaned between the rad & the condensor so that should still be 
> clean.
> 
> One thing about the T'Stat - 1st one I bought was right catalog # but it was 
> too small (or vice versa) so I got the right one and all was well. That 
> doesn't mean it didn't fail soon after I started using it. I also put a new 
> Fan Clutch on. But at one point, I had cooling issues and I replaced 
> everything assoc w/the cooling - at least the front of engine components.
> 
> I also noticed the Aux fans only seemed to run when the AC was on - I thought 
> that might be the way it was supposed to run. IAC, as Curley found, when AC 
> is on the Aux fans work and Temp is not a problem.
> 
> Hopefully, by now Curley has found / fixed the problem.
> 
> I hope everyone is staying healthy in these times...
> 
> LarryT
> '06 E350 (which may a new the Conductor Plate)
> 
> On 3/14/2020 8:51 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
> 
> > Curley, I've got three of these cars, '87 with OM603 and two '95's with
> > OM606NA. None of them need the aux fan running in the summer heat, unless
> > the AC is running or I'm carrying a big load or running fast on the highway
> > up hill and then suddenly slow down.
> > 
> > Just driving around town at 75 deg F, with no AC running, the car should
> > not need the aux fans running.
> > 
> > I disagree, you've got evidence that the t-stat is failed. They can fail
> > right out of the box!
> > 
> > In your place, I would remove the front bumper and the fan shroud and clean
> > out the leaves and bugs between shroud and condenser, pull the radiator and
> > clean between radiator and condenser, spray your garden hose through both
> > while you have it all apart, and then pull the t-stat and check it for
> > function.
> > 
> > Here are the specs from MB:
> > 
> > OM601, 602.91, 603.91: begin opening @ 85 +/-2 deg C, minimum stroke 8mm @
> > 94 deg C
> > 
> > If the AC refrigerant has leaked down, then only the high speed function of
> > the aux fans will work.
> > -
> > Max
> > Charleston SC
> > 
> > 
> > On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 11:38 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > because the problem is not the thermostat. On this one, the radiator is
> > > blocked by a shroud, except for where the 2 fans are. I'm guessing that
> > > is to keep bugs out of the radiator. So without the fans running, it
> > > runs too hot. when the fans run it is fine. Larry put a new
> > > thermostat in it not that long ago. If I had evidence of a thermostat
> > > problem I would change it. so far it is quite clear: Fans running, no
> > > overheat. Fans not running, overheating. With the sensor on top of
> > > the engine plugged in, the fans never run. THat is a problem. When
> > > that sensor is unplugged, the fans are intermittent.
> > > 
> > > If the R134a has leaked out, would the low pressure switch cause the
> > > fans not to run? Seems to me that the fans should be independent of
> > > the a/c, but obviously they are linked at the drier. Fans should run
> > > when the A/c is off.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-04-09 Thread Larry Turner via Mercedes

Hello All -
Back when I had the car, I replaced the Rad when the upper nozzle 
broke.  At that time I cleaned between the rad & the condensor so that 
should still be clean.


One thing about the T'Stat - 1st one I bought was right catalog # but it 
was too small (or vice versa) so I got the right one and all was well.  
That doesn't mean it didn't fail soon after I started using it.  I also 
put a new Fan Clutch on.  But at one point, I had cooling issues and I 
replaced everything assoc w/the cooling - at least the front of engine 
components.


I also noticed the Aux fans only seemed to run when the AC was on - I 
thought that might be the way it was supposed to run. IAC, as Curley 
found, when AC  is on the Aux fans work and Temp is not a problem.


Hopefully, by now Curley has found / fixed the problem.

I hope everyone is staying healthy in these times...

LarryT
'06 E350 (which may a new the Conductor Plate)

On 3/14/2020 8:51 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Curley, I've got three of these cars, '87 with OM603 and two '95's with
OM606NA.  None of them need the aux fan running in the summer heat, unless
the AC is running or I'm carrying a big load or running fast on the highway
up hill and then suddenly slow down.

Just driving around town at 75 deg F, with no AC running, the car should
not need the aux fans running.

I disagree, you've got evidence that the t-stat is failed.  They can fail
right out of the box!

In your place, I would remove the front bumper and the fan shroud and clean
out the leaves and bugs between shroud and condenser, pull the radiator and
clean between radiator and condenser, spray your garden hose through both
while you have it all apart, and then pull the t-stat and check it for
function.

Here are the specs from MB:

OM601, 602.91, 603.91: begin opening @ 85 +/-2 deg C, minimum stroke 8mm @
94 deg C

If the AC refrigerant has leaked down, then only the high speed function of
the aux fans will work.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 11:38 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


because the problem is not the thermostat.  On this one, the radiator is
blocked by a shroud, except for where the 2 fans are.  I'm guessing that
is to keep bugs out of the radiator.   So without the fans running, it
runs too hot.  when the fans run it is fine.   Larry put a new
thermostat in it not that long ago.   If I had evidence of a thermostat
problem I would change it.  so far it is quite clear:  Fans running, no
overheat.  Fans not running, overheating.   With the sensor on top of
the engine plugged in, the fans never run.   THat is a problem.   When
that sensor is unplugged, the fans are intermittent.

If the R134a has leaked out, would the low pressure switch cause the
fans not to run?   Seems to me that the fans should be independent of
the a/c, but obviously they are linked at the drier.  Fans should run
when the A/c is off.



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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-16 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
The 201 chassis is the only place I've seen electric fan clutches on MBs.

On Sun, Mar 15, 2020 at 6:54 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>  Interesting, yours is a 602 NA?Mine were both 601 and both were electric.
> -Curt
>
> On Saturday, March 14, 2020, 4:38:06 PM EDT, Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>  > The 190 had an electric clutch if I remember correctly, while the W124
> has a viscous clutch.
>
>
> W201's vary.  Ours (diesel) has a visco-clutch.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-16 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
> Interesting, yours is a 602 NA?
> Mine were both 601 and both were electric.

Yes.  OM602 NA, visco-fan.

-- Jim

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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-15 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 Interesting, yours is a 602 NA?Mine were both 601 and both were electric.
-Curt

On Saturday, March 14, 2020, 4:38:06 PM EDT, Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 > The 190 had an electric clutch if I remember correctly, while the W124 has 
 > a viscous clutch.


W201's vary.  Ours (diesel) has a visco-clutch.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

thanks Dan.

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 5:03 PM:

Here’s a BW thread about using a resistor to lower the resistance of the sensor 
on the block:

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/auxillary-fan-turn-on-set-point-resistor-modification.1629476/

It’s kind of convoluted reading, but I seem to recall using a couple of 2.2k 
ohm resistors in parallel to get my cut in point to about 92C.

-D


On Mar 14, 2020, at 5:55 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes  
wrote:

Found relays K9 and K10. pulled them out, and when I put one (k10) in I had low 
speed!   Put the other in and had high speed!(Dryer switch jumped and top 
sensor unplugged.)

With both relays back in , I plugged in the top sensor, and the dryer switch 
and went for a drive.  all ok for a while,  Temp stable at 82.  Then temp 
climbing/no fans.  Stopped  pulled out the top sensor plug. fans running/ temp 
going back to normal.

Came home, pulled the relays.   changed the low speed one. everything appears 
to be working again.

Could be a bad relay, bad contact on the pins or bad connection on the pins 
where the relay plugs in.

The 87 has a double top sensor.  one 2 pin and one 1pin.  resistance, cold 
between the 2 pins is infinity, compared to 5K ohm on the 91 with a 2 pin 
sensor.  SDL has the same 3 pin sensor.  I need to go back and pull the plug 
off it and check cold resistance.   (it was stuck too tight to get it off by 
hand)  Since they are not he same as the 91 OM602, I don't know if their 
resistance is meaningful for comparison or not.

I stole a relay from the SDL and stuck it in the low speed (k10) slot.

We will see what happens now.

I think the dryer switch may be ok, but no way to test it right now.
not sure if the top sensor is right and I don't know what its resistance 
cold/hot  should be.   Anyone got information about it?


I also did further testing on the viscous clutch. It is low on oil.  Had a 
spare used MB one, but it had leaked oil all over.   Not a good sign!

Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 3:04 PM:

I think that low speed fan circuit has a big resistor between the ABS pump and 
the fender. If that resistor is open circuit, no fan operation. Had that on my 
'87.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Mar 14, 2020 3:42:46 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes :


Done that. it has no effect whatsoever. (indicates electrical problem, not 
mechanical)

Craig via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 2:30 PM:


otherwise, the next fix is to put a manual switch on the fans or wire
them to run whenever the key is on.


You can do that by shorting the terminals at the receiver/filter/dryer I
mentioned in one of my emails. I had to do that on our '90 E300D because
the switch on the side of the receiver/filter/driver was bad and removing
it would have opened the A/C system.


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Here’s a BW thread about using a resistor to lower the resistance of the sensor 
on the block:

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/auxillary-fan-turn-on-set-point-resistor-modification.1629476/

It’s kind of convoluted reading, but I seem to recall using a couple of 2.2k 
ohm resistors in parallel to get my cut in point to about 92C.

-D

> On Mar 14, 2020, at 5:55 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Found relays K9 and K10. pulled them out, and when I put one (k10) in I had 
> low speed!   Put the other in and had high speed!(Dryer switch jumped and 
> top sensor unplugged.)
> 
> With both relays back in , I plugged in the top sensor, and the dryer switch 
> and went for a drive.  all ok for a while,  Temp stable at 82.  Then temp 
> climbing/no fans.  Stopped  pulled out the top sensor plug. fans running/ 
> temp going back to normal.
> 
> Came home, pulled the relays.   changed the low speed one. everything appears 
> to be working again.
> 
> Could be a bad relay, bad contact on the pins or bad connection on the pins 
> where the relay plugs in.
> 
> The 87 has a double top sensor.  one 2 pin and one 1pin.  resistance, cold 
> between the 2 pins is infinity, compared to 5K ohm on the 91 with a 2 pin 
> sensor.  SDL has the same 3 pin sensor.  I need to go back and pull the plug 
> off it and check cold resistance.   (it was stuck too tight to get it off by 
> hand)  Since they are not he same as the 91 OM602, I don't know if their 
> resistance is meaningful for comparison or not.
> 
> I stole a relay from the SDL and stuck it in the low speed (k10) slot.
> 
> We will see what happens now.
> 
> I think the dryer switch may be ok, but no way to test it right now.
> not sure if the top sensor is right and I don't know what its resistance 
> cold/hot  should be.   Anyone got information about it?
> 
> 
> I also did further testing on the viscous clutch. It is low on oil.  Had a 
> spare used MB one, but it had leaked oil all over.   Not a good sign!
> 
> Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 3:04 PM:
>> I think that low speed fan circuit has a big resistor between the ABS pump 
>> and the fender. If that resistor is open circuit, no fan operation. Had that 
>> on my '87.
>> 
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> 
>> Mar 14, 2020 3:42:46 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes :
>> 
>>> Done that. it has no effect whatsoever. (indicates electrical problem, not 
>>> mechanical)
>>> 
>>> Craig via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 2:30 PM:
>>> 
> otherwise, the next fix is to put a manual switch on the fans or wire
> them to run whenever the key is on.
> 
 You can do that by shorting the terminals at the receiver/filter/dryer I
 mentioned in one of my emails. I had to do that on our '90 E300D because
 the switch on the side of the receiver/filter/driver was bad and removing
 it would have opened the A/C system.
 
 
 Craig
 
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>>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes
Found relays K9 and K10. pulled them out, and when I put one (k10) in I 
had low speed!   Put the other in and had high speed!    (Dryer switch 
jumped and top sensor unplugged.)


With both relays back in , I plugged in the top sensor, and the dryer 
switch and went for a drive.  all ok for a while,  Temp stable at 82.  
Then temp climbing/no fans.  Stopped  pulled out the top sensor plug. 
fans running/ temp going back to normal.


Came home, pulled the relays.   changed the low speed one. everything 
appears to be working again.


Could be a bad relay, bad contact on the pins or bad connection on the 
pins where the relay plugs in.


The 87 has a double top sensor.  one 2 pin and one 1pin.  resistance, 
cold between the 2 pins is infinity, compared to 5K ohm on the 91 with a 
2 pin sensor.  SDL has the same 3 pin sensor.  I need to go back and 
pull the plug off it and check cold resistance.   (it was stuck too 
tight to get it off by hand)  Since they are not he same as the 91 
OM602, I don't know if their resistance is meaningful for comparison or not.


I stole a relay from the SDL and stuck it in the low speed (k10) slot.

We will see what happens now.

I think the dryer switch may be ok, but no way to test it right now.
not sure if the top sensor is right and I don't know what its resistance 
cold/hot  should be.   Anyone got information about it?



I also did further testing on the viscous clutch. It is low on oil.  Had 
a spare used MB one, but it had leaked oil all over.   Not a good sign!


Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 3:04 PM:

I think that low speed fan circuit has a big resistor between the ABS pump and 
the fender. If that resistor is open circuit, no fan operation. Had that on my 
'87.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Mar 14, 2020 3:42:46 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes :


Done that. it has no effect whatsoever. (indicates electrical problem, not 
mechanical)

Craig via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 2:30 PM:


otherwise, the next fix is to put a manual switch on the fans or wire
them to run whenever the key is on.


You can do that by shorting the terminals at the receiver/filter/dryer I
mentioned in one of my emails. I had to do that on our '90 E300D because
the switch on the side of the receiver/filter/driver was bad and removing
it would have opened the A/C system.


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Even though this wiring diagram says it is for 93 and later, I think it
will work for your car for the aux fan circuits.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 5:24 PM Meade Dillon  wrote:

> There are two relays: K9, which operates the high speed function of the
> aux fans, and K10 which is for the low speed function (low speed circuit
> goes through a big resistor to drop the voltage).  K9 is in position C in
> the fuse box, K10 is position B in the fuse box.
>
> High speed circuit:  Test by jumping the  temperature sensor/switch at the
> top front of head, makes both fans run in high speed, I think you've
> confirmed that this works.
>
> This information is for an '87 diesel, and also works for a '93 diesel, so
> I think it will cover your '91 diesel.
>
> Low speed circuit: Signaling side of the relay: Fuse 7 to K10 pin 4.  K10
> pin 5 goes to S32 (refrigerant pressure switch) which goes to ground.
> Powering side of the relay: K10 pin 3 is power from Fuse D.  K10 pin 1 goes
> to the resister (located by the ABS pump and the reciever/dryer, behind the
> left front headlight), then to the fans.
>
>
> Test for power from Fuse 7 to K10 pin 4 with key on.  Test for power from
> Fuse D to K10 pin 3 with key on.  Test if the resistor is open or 0.2 ohms
> (correct value is 0.2 ohms).  Test that K10 pin 5 has continuity to one of
> the connections as the S32 pressure switch, and test that the other
> connector has continuity to ground.  Test that there is continuity from the
> resistor to the motors.
>
> Order a new t-stat, so that after you get all that straightened out and
> the car is still running too hot, you can fix the real problem (I predict)
> which is a bad t-stat.
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
>
>
>
>
>>


2483500.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
There are two relays: K9, which operates the high speed function of the aux
fans, and K10 which is for the low speed function (low speed circuit goes
through a big resistor to drop the voltage).  K9 is in position C in the
fuse box, K10 is position B in the fuse box.

High speed circuit:  Test by jumping the  temperature sensor/switch at the
top front of head, makes both fans run in high speed, I think you've
confirmed that this works.

This information is for an '87 diesel, and also works for a '93 diesel, so
I think it will cover your '91 diesel.

Low speed circuit: Signaling side of the relay: Fuse 7 to K10 pin 4.  K10
pin 5 goes to S32 (refrigerant pressure switch) which goes to ground.
Powering side of the relay: K10 pin 3 is power from Fuse D.  K10 pin 1 goes
to the resister (located by the ABS pump and the reciever/dryer, behind the
left front headlight), then to the fans.


Test for power from Fuse 7 to K10 pin 4 with key on.  Test for power from
Fuse D to K10 pin 3 with key on.  Test if the resistor is open or 0.2 ohms
(correct value is 0.2 ohms).  Test that K10 pin 5 has continuity to one of
the connections as the S32 pressure switch, and test that the other
connector has continuity to ground.  Test that there is continuity from the
resistor to the motors.

Order a new t-stat, so that after you get all that straightened out and the
car is still running too hot, you can fix the real problem (I predict)
which is a bad t-stat.
-
Max
Charleston SC




>
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
> The 190 had an electric clutch if I remember correctly, while the W124 has a 
> viscous clutch.


W201's vary.  Ours (diesel) has a visco-clutch.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
I think that low speed fan circuit has a big resistor between the ABS pump and 
the fender. If that resistor is open circuit, no fan operation. Had that on my 
'87.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Mar 14, 2020 3:42:46 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes :

> Done that. it has no effect whatsoever. (indicates electrical problem, not 
> mechanical)
> 
> Craig via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 2:30 PM:
> 
> > 
> > > otherwise, the next fix is to put a manual switch on the fans or wire
> > > them to run whenever the key is on.
> > > 
> > You can do that by shorting the terminals at the receiver/filter/dryer I
> > mentioned in one of my emails. I had to do that on our '90 E300D because
> > the switch on the side of the receiver/filter/driver was bad and removing
> > it would have opened the A/C system.
> > 
> > 
> > Craig
> > 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes
Done that.  it has no effect whatsoever.  (indicates electrical problem, 
not mechanical)


Craig via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 2:30 PM:

otherwise, the next fix is to put a manual switch on the fans or wire
them to run whenever the key is on.

You can do that by shorting the terminals at the receiver/filter/dryer I
mentioned in one of my emails. I had to do that on our '90 E300D because
the switch on the side of the receiver/filter/driver was bad and removing
it would have opened the A/C system.


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Sat, 14 Mar 2020 13:52:28 -0500 Curley McLain via Mercedes
 wrote:

> I do not see any way to take off/take out the front shroud and fans, 
> other than removing radiator, condensor etc.  Trying to avoid that for
> now.

For sure, you do not have to remove the condenser. IIRC, you also do not
have to remove the radiator. You may have to loosen the mounting clips
and tip it backwards with the condenser.


> If anyone can find a wiring diagram, that would be very helpful.

I already posted them to the List; check your email.


> I have been looking at the manual on Dave M's site and on the 
> w124-zone.com site, I don't find any diagnostic for the fan circuits 
> other than the 83-544 posted earlier for the dryer switch.


> If I could get to it, I'd be tempted to cut out the lower part of the 
> front shroud to allow airflow other than past the electric fans.   But 
> will run as designed if I can find the problem.

No, don't do that! If you cut out the lower portion of the front shroud
you will greatly reduce the effect of the auxiliary fans when they are
needed.


> otherwise, the next fix is to put a manual switch on the fans or wire
> them to run whenever the key is on.

You can do that by shorting the terminals at the receiver/filter/dryer I
mentioned in one of my emails. I had to do that on our '90 E300D because
the switch on the side of the receiver/filter/driver was bad and removing
it would have opened the A/C system.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

yep got that.

Craig via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 12:39 PM:

On Fri, 13 Mar 2020 19:26:04 -0500 Curley McLain via Mercedes
 wrote:


I think in some prior discussion I remember that the )M60x has 2 fan
switches.  Apparently they are in parallel.   Anyone know if or where
this other switch could be?

I sent the schematics with another email.

Attached is the picture of the A/C filter dryer/reservoir and its
switches. The auxiliary fan switch is the red one with the flying leads
which connect with faston terminals to two wires which go off into the
wiring harness.


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

Ok, here is the latest.

Top sensor, 2 pin, at the top of the head, next to 1 pin temp sensor 
(coolant exit to radiator)

5,000 ohm resistance, cold between the 2 pins
Blue/white wire: 5 v
brown wire 0 volts


Dryer fan switch
Infinite resistance cold = open circuit
Brown/Blue wire 12v
brown wire  0 volts.

with key on, fans are running with plug on top sensor disconnected. the 
dryer fan connectors open or jumped made no difference.



Took loose the rear shroud
took loose the radiator.
Front of radiator/back or condensor are clean.

I do not see any way to take off/take out the front shroud and fans, 
other than removing radiator, condensor etc.  Trying to avoid that for now.


Because there is 5 v., not 12v. on the blue/brown wire at the top 
sensor, there has to be some other device in the circuit that is 
reducing voltage from 12 to 5.Is this the resistor near the dryer?


If anyone can find a wiring diagram, that would be very helpful.

I have replace many viscous clutches, and refilled 3 or 4 others.   This 
viscous clutch is ok.   It looks like it may have been replaced when the 
radiator was replaced.


I have been looking at the manual on Dave M's site and on the 
w124-zone.com site, I don't find any diagnostic for the fan circuits 
other than the 83-544 posted earlier for the dryer switch.


As for changing antifreeze,  that has been planned for months for after 
everything is working and the shakedown is done.   right now, I want to 
get the electric fan controls fixed before I change the antifreeze, so I 
am trying to leave the coolant system intact and trying to leave the 
refrigerant system intact for now.


If I could get to it, I'd be tempted to cut out the lower part of the 
front shroud to allow airflow other than past the electric fans.   But 
will run as designed if I can find the problem.   otherwise, the next 
fix is to put a manual switch on the fans or wire them to run whenever 
the key is on.

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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
Correct 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2020, at 12:17 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> The 190 had an electric clutch if I remember correctly, while the W124 has a 
> viscous clutch.  
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes
The 190 had an electric clutch if I remember correctly, while the W124 has a 
viscous clutch.  
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes
>Are you sure the fan clutch kicks on at 80? 

In my 190e 2.6 it is supposed to come on at 100c or 105c, but not 80c. There is 
a resistor mod you can do at the temp sensor connector that can lower it 
(assuming they are similarly set up).  Dan posted on that years ago when he had 
the 140 coupe. 

Rick


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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Dwight Giles via Mercedes
Yes overheating in my 90 300D 2.5t (now Dimitri's) was cured by a new fan
clutch.
Dwight E. Giles Jr.
Wickford RI


On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 11:39 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>  If the engine fan is working and its 75F and its overheating you've got
> some other problem(s). The aux fans should be unneeded in those conditions.
> I agree that a thermostat would be one of my first things to test. The car
> has sat awhile no? I'd probably swap the coolant too.
> Angie's Golf had a mystery coolant leak only discovered when my TDI guru
> used a pressure tester. Perhaps you're loosing pressure somewhere, a
> cracked tank maybe?
> I drove 2 different 190Ds with bad fan clutches, those use an electric
> clutch. In each case the car was fine as long as it didn't have to sit in
> heavy traffic. The second car had a working aux fan so it'd just cycle up
> to 105F, the fan would come on and bring it down, then it would cycle back
> up. The first car I had to be dammed careful in heavy traffic...
> -Curt
>
> On Saturday, March 14, 2020, 1:59:59 AM EDT, Curley McLain via
> Mercedes  wrote:
>
>  Yes, the belt driven fan is whirring away nicely, otherwise, it would be
> dead in the water in about 200 yards. (or suffer an engine meltdown if
> you didn't stop)  It keeps the temp from getting abouve ~105º C.
>
> This one is different in that the front of the radiator is blocked by a
> front shroud, except for the 2 electric fans.  apparently they are
> supposed to run at one speed for normal driving and at a higher speed
> for running with the air cond. on.   When they are stopped, they block
> the airflow to the radiator even more.
>
> That is why I have to find out how to get them to run as they are
> supposed to.
>
> Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 12:25 AM:
> > Stupid question. Is the fan clutch working?
> > You would be amazed at the difference a working vs. non-working fan
> clutch can make. Most folks think that above 30 mph, the fan has no impact,
> but I can tell you with first hand experience, that is not true.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes
Roughly 80C at the fan clutch I think.  Might be a bit warmer, but well below 
"overheat" on the temp gauge.

I think I've replaced three over the years.  
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 80C at the fan itself though right? I was under the impression that the 
viscous fan clutch requires itself to get hot to operate.
-Curt

On Saturday, March 14, 2020, 10:43:59 AM EDT, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 Are you sure the fan clutch kicks on at 80? I thought the thermostat didn’t 
even start opening till 80 or so and was not fully opened till warmer than 
that. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2020, at 9:02 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> The fan clutch kicks in around 80C and should keep you at normal operating 
> temp unless you have the AC on, in which case as long as there is high 
> temperature on the high pressure side of the compressor the fans will run at 
> low speed.
> 
> They should NOT be on in normal driving.
> 
> You have a bad fan clutch -- easy to test.  With the engine warm enough for 
> the clutch to be engaged you should hear it roaring and when the engine is 
> shut of it should stop within a second or two.  On startup cold you should 
> hear it run for a few seconds as the clutch fluid spins out of the plates.
> 
> If it's not pushing quite a bit of air with a warm engine, it's dead and 
> needs to be replaced.
> 
> Been there a number of times, probably 90% of your trouble is a dead visco 
> clutch.
> 
> The rest of it is either a bad ground or a bad electric fan motor or two.  
> Since they both run it's not the last issue, something stuck in them to 
> prevent rotation.
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 If the engine fan is working and its 75F and its overheating you've got some 
other problem(s). The aux fans should be unneeded in those conditions.
I agree that a thermostat would be one of my first things to test. The car has 
sat awhile no? I'd probably swap the coolant too.
Angie's Golf had a mystery coolant leak only discovered when my TDI guru used a 
pressure tester. Perhaps you're loosing pressure somewhere, a cracked tank 
maybe?
I drove 2 different 190Ds with bad fan clutches, those use an electric clutch. 
In each case the car was fine as long as it didn't have to sit in heavy 
traffic. The second car had a working aux fan so it'd just cycle up to 105F, 
the fan would come on and bring it down, then it would cycle back up. The first 
car I had to be dammed careful in heavy traffic...
-Curt

On Saturday, March 14, 2020, 1:59:59 AM EDT, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 Yes, the belt driven fan is whirring away nicely, otherwise, it would be 
dead in the water in about 200 yards. (or suffer an engine meltdown if 
you didn't stop)  It keeps the temp from getting abouve ~105º C.

This one is different in that the front of the radiator is blocked by a 
front shroud, except for the 2 electric fans.  apparently they are 
supposed to run at one speed for normal driving and at a higher speed 
for running with the air cond. on.   When they are stopped, they block 
the airflow to the radiator even more.

That is why I have to find out how to get them to run as they are 
supposed to.

Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 12:25 AM:
> Stupid question. Is the fan clutch working?
> You would be amazed at the difference a working vs. non-working fan clutch 
> can make. Most folks think that above 30 mph, the fan has no impact, but I 
> can tell you with first hand experience, that is not true.
>
> Rick
>
>


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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
On that engine, the t-stat starts to open at 85. They run a little hotter than 
earlier engines.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Mar 14, 2020 10:43:59 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :

> Are you sure the fan clutch kicks on at 80? I thought the thermostat didn’t 
> even start opening till 80 or so and was not fully opened till warmer than 
> that.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> > On Mar 14, 2020, at 9:02 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > The fan clutch kicks in around 80C and should keep you at normal operating 
> > temp unless you have the AC on, in which case as long as there is high 
> > temperature on the high pressure side of the compressor the fans will run 
> > at low speed.
> > 
> > They should NOT be on in normal driving.
> > 
> > You have a bad fan clutch -- easy to test. With the engine warm enough for 
> > the clutch to be engaged you should hear it roaring and when the engine is 
> > shut of it should stop within a second or two. On startup cold you should 
> > hear it run for a few seconds as the clutch fluid spins out of the plates.
> > 
> > If it's not pushing quite a bit of air with a warm engine, it's dead and 
> > needs to be replaced.
> > 
> > Been there a number of times, probably 90% of your trouble is a dead visco 
> > clutch.
> > 
> > The rest of it is either a bad ground or a bad electric fan motor or two. 
> > Since they both run it's not the last issue, something stuck in them to 
> > prevent rotation.
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> > 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
Are you sure the fan clutch kicks on at 80? I thought the thermostat didn’t 
even start opening till 80 or so and was not fully opened till warmer than 
that. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2020, at 9:02 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> The fan clutch kicks in around 80C and should keep you at normal operating 
> temp unless you have the AC on, in which case as long as there is high 
> temperature on the high pressure side of the compressor the fans will run at 
> low speed.
> 
> They should NOT be on in normal driving.
> 
> You have a bad fan clutch -- easy to test.  With the engine warm enough for 
> the clutch to be engaged you should hear it roaring and when the engine is 
> shut of it should stop within a second or two.  On startup cold you should 
> hear it run for a few seconds as the clutch fluid spins out of the plates.
> 
> If it's not pushing quite a bit of air with a warm engine, it's dead and 
> needs to be replaced.
> 
> Been there a number of times, probably 90% of your trouble is a dead visco 
> clutch.
> 
> The rest of it is either a bad ground or a bad electric fan motor or two.  
> Since they both run it's not the last issue, something stuck in them to 
> prevent rotation.
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
And aftermarket viscous fan clutches are notoriously poor quality and rarely in 
spec. I had some success in refilling them, which is pretty simple to do. Over 
time the oil leaks out and they start acting up.

-D

> On Mar 14, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> The fan clutch kicks in around 80C and should keep you at normal operating 
> temp unless you have the AC on, in which case as long as there is high 
> temperature on the high pressure side of the compressor the fans will run at 
> low speed.
> 
> They should NOT be on in normal driving.
> 
> You have a bad fan clutch -- easy to test.  With the engine warm enough for 
> the clutch to be engaged you should hear it roaring and when the engine is 
> shut of it should stop within a second or two.  On startup cold you should 
> hear it run for a few seconds as the clutch fluid spins out of the plates.
> 
> If it's not pushing quite a bit of air with a warm engine, it's dead and 
> needs to be replaced.
> 
> Been there a number of times, probably 90% of your trouble is a dead visco 
> clutch.
> 
> The rest of it is either a bad ground or a bad electric fan motor or two.  
> Since they both run it's not the last issue, something stuck in them to 
> prevent rotation.
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes
The fan clutch kicks in around 80C and should keep you at normal operating temp 
unless you have the AC on, in which case as long as there is high temperature 
on the high pressure side of the compressor the fans will run at low speed.

They should NOT be on in normal driving.

You have a bad fan clutch -- easy to test.  With the engine warm enough for the 
clutch to be engaged you should hear it roaring and when the engine is shut of 
it should stop within a second or two.  On startup cold you should hear it run 
for a few seconds as the clutch fluid spins out of the plates.

If it's not pushing quite a bit of air with a warm engine, it's dead and needs 
to be replaced.

Been there a number of times, probably 90% of your trouble is a dead visco 
clutch.

The rest of it is either a bad ground or a bad electric fan motor or two.  
Since they both run it's not the last issue, something stuck in them to prevent 
rotation.
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes
Switches are in the hot side line --  receiver/dryer switch wire goes to a 
resistor located close by, the engine switch wire goes to the 'far' side of the 
same resistor for full fan speed.

If the hot side is hot, you have a bad ground.  I'm guessing it's in the same 
general area as the resistor, but I've personally never looked.



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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Curley, I've got three of these cars, '87 with OM603 and two '95's with
OM606NA.  None of them need the aux fan running in the summer heat, unless
the AC is running or I'm carrying a big load or running fast on the highway
up hill and then suddenly slow down.

Just driving around town at 75 deg F, with no AC running, the car should
not need the aux fans running.

I disagree, you've got evidence that the t-stat is failed.  They can fail
right out of the box!

In your place, I would remove the front bumper and the fan shroud and clean
out the leaves and bugs between shroud and condenser, pull the radiator and
clean between radiator and condenser, spray your garden hose through both
while you have it all apart, and then pull the t-stat and check it for
function.

Here are the specs from MB:

OM601, 602.91, 603.91: begin opening @ 85 +/-2 deg C, minimum stroke 8mm @
94 deg C

If the AC refrigerant has leaked down, then only the high speed function of
the aux fans will work.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 11:38 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> because the problem is not the thermostat.  On this one, the radiator is
> blocked by a shroud, except for where the 2 fans are.  I'm guessing that
> is to keep bugs out of the radiator.   So without the fans running, it
> runs too hot.  when the fans run it is fine.   Larry put a new
> thermostat in it not that long ago.   If I had evidence of a thermostat
> problem I would change it.  so far it is quite clear:  Fans running, no
> overheat.  Fans not running, overheating.   With the sensor on top of
> the engine plugged in, the fans never run.   THat is a problem.   When
> that sensor is unplugged, the fans are intermittent.
>
> If the R134a has leaked out, would the low pressure switch cause the
> fans not to run?   Seems to me that the fans should be independent of
> the a/c, but obviously they are linked at the drier.  Fans should run
> when the A/c is off.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-14 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes
Yes, the belt driven fan is whirring away nicely, otherwise, it would be 
dead in the water in about 200 yards. (or suffer an engine meltdown if 
you didn't stop)  It keeps the temp from getting abouve ~105º C.


This one is different in that the front of the radiator is blocked by a 
front shroud, except for the 2 electric fans.  apparently they are 
supposed to run at one speed for normal driving and at a higher speed 
for running with the air cond. on.   When they are stopped, they block 
the airflow to the radiator even more.


That is why I have to find out how to get them to run as they are 
supposed to.


Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/20 12:25 AM:

Stupid question. Is the fan clutch working?
You would be amazed at the difference a working vs. non-working fan clutch can 
make. Most folks think that above 30 mph, the fan has no impact, but I can tell 
you with first hand experience, that is not true.

Rick





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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-13 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes
Stupid question. Is the fan clutch working?
You would be amazed at the difference a working vs. non-working fan clutch can 
make. Most folks think that above 30 mph, the fan has no impact, but I can tell 
you with first hand experience, that is not true. 

Rick


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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-13 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes
because the problem is not the thermostat.  On this one, the radiator is 
blocked by a shroud, except for where the 2 fans are.  I'm guessing that 
is to keep bugs out of the radiator.   So without the fans running, it 
runs too hot.  when the fans run it is fine.   Larry put a new 
thermostat in it not that long ago.   If I had evidence of a thermostat 
problem I would change it.  so far it is quite clear:  Fans running, no 
overheat.  Fans not running, overheating.   With the sensor on top of 
the engine plugged in, the fans never run.   THat is a problem.   When 
that sensor is unplugged, the fans are intermittent.


If the R134a has leaked out, would the low pressure switch cause the 
fans not to run?   Seems to me that the fans should be independent of 
the a/c, but obviously they are linked at the drier.  Fans should run 
when the A/c is off.


Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote on 3/13/20 8:22 PM:

Why don't you replace the thermostat?

If you dig into the FSM for the HVAC system, it will have the test
procedures for both low and high cooling fan operation.  Section 83 I
believe.
-
Max
Charleston SC




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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

2020-03-13 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Why don't you replace the thermostat?

If you dig into the FSM for the HVAC system, it will have the test
procedures for both low and high cooling fan operation.  Section 83 I
believe.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 8:26 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I took off this afternoon with all fans a blazing away, and a nice rock
> solid 92º C temp.   Great!   On the way back from a BP session, I saw
> the temp at 105 again.
>
> Got stuck while a bridge opened for a barge.  Shut off the engine.
> Turned the key back on, could not hear the fan running.   After 5 min or
> so, the fans suddenly turned on.  I started the car and the temp came
> down.The fans shut off again, and the temp rose.   Opened the hood
> to be sure the plug contacts were not grounding somewhere..  (not.)
>
> I think in some prior discussion I remember that the )M60x has 2 fan
> switches.  Apparently they are in parallel.   Anyone know if or where
> this other switch could be?
>
> Thanks!
>
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