I often use a lab coat when working on cars.
Luther wrote:
and keeps your white lab coat white :D
Luther
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
(2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
Some years ago I bought some really good white cotton jumpsuits for $1
each at a surplus store. They are size 52 and have some nuclear reactor
lapel labels on them. I don't need shop lights or anything when I wear
them, and they keep me warm in the winter too! Kinda big on me, but I
seem to
] best way to pull an engine
I often use a lab coat when working on cars.
Luther wrote:
and keeps your white lab coat white :D
Luther
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
(2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72
As long as EVERYTHING grows in proportion I guess you will be OK.
Tom Potter
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 8:08 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
I have never pulled one using a leveler, maybe I should get one.
OK Don wrote:
I'm on Richard's level -done a few, and both ways. I now leave the
tranny on the engine - pull them as a unit. I've only done 115/617 and
107/117 chassis though.
My cheap Chinese hoist and leveler worked fine with
It takes all that pushing and shoving out of the job.
On 3/20/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have never pulled one using a leveler, maybe I should get one.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
Oh yes, this is done on dirt with a single 4'x8' sheet of 3/4 plywood under
the crane.
On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 07:47:05 -0600, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Luther, you made my day.
On 3/19/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If I can pull an engine/tranny (done it twice now) as a
and keeps your white lab coat white :D
Luther
On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 19:11:21 -0600, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It takes all that pushing and shoving out of the job.
On 3/20/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have never pulled one using a leveler, maybe I should get one.
It doesn't even keep my sneakers white ---
On 3/20/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
and keeps your white lab coat white :D
Luther
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78
-
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I think one of the key things is to have an engine leveller on the
engine
on a MB, you pull the engine and tranny, much easier and thats just the
way its done.
Hans Neureiter wrote:
Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together.
Here's my question:
The book says pull the engine and tranny as a unit.
My indy (super mechanic, but not an expert on
yea, doing it under the car is WAY worse. The book says pull as a unit,
I have always done that an its much easier to do what needs to be done
while out of the car.
Richard Hattaway wrote:
Well, I dont have Kleb's experience level I don't think, but have done
this half dozen times so far.
I did pull the pum pan and #1 rod has play.
So, you _did_ find the smoking gun! Congratulations, and I'm sorry.
I'd still be tempted, given a replacement engine all lined up, to
try to slip in one used bearing from another dead engine just to
see how it held up.
-- Jim
I'm on Richard's level -done a few, and both ways. I now leave the
tranny on the engine - pull them as a unit. I've only done 115/617 and
107/117 chassis though.
My cheap Chinese hoist and leveler worked fine with the iron 117 V8
and it's tranny. That leveler is really nice to work with compared
it won't
if it is knocking, there is .040 to .080 wear on the journal. The crank is
toast.
Loren Faeth
If I can pull an engine/tranny (done it twice now) as a unit, anyone can. It's
a cake walk. :)
On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 09:37:26 -0600, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the rest of us together.
Here's my question:
The book says pull the engine
The shop manual of course pictured a technician in spotless white
coveralls easily removing the equally spotless engine with
transmission attached, at a moderate angle.
Allan
Yeah, Allan, and he did it in 10 minutes with no help. Just like the
truck rebuild TV shows.. ROFLMAO
Richard
Luther, you made my day.
On 3/19/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If I can pull an engine/tranny (done it twice now) as a unit, anyone can. It's
a cake walk. :)
On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 09:37:26 -0600, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb has prolly pulled more engines than the
It can be tricky, but the Benz specified method works well. The trick is to
lift and tilt simultaneously so that you get the bell housing past the drag
link before the rear of the tranny drops too far, then pull forward as you
rotate back to about 45 degrees and lift to clear the radiator
HF has the engine lifts on sale this week.
--R
I recommend getting the 2-ton unit. On my cars, I had to fully extend
the boom to avoid hitting the front bumper with the hydraulic cylinder
when positioning the engine.
-Dave Walton
On 3/20/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
HF has the engine lifts on sale this week.
--R
I'll defer to other people more experienced than I, but if a mechanic
told me he was going to pull the transmission with the engine
suspended in mid air, I'd look for another mechanic. Use some wood
blocks and let the thing down to earth. Gheez.
In the case of the 87SDL and the 94S350, I do not
I have almost always let the trans hang in the car. I can say that it is
much easier to put the AUTO trans on the engine outside the car, then
install as a unit. Most of what I have done is manual trans. It makes NO
sense to me to pull the trans out of the car with an MB 4 speed. I think
I did pull the pum pan and #1 rod has play.
I have my sights on a very reasonable replacement motor thanks to
Kaleb and doing a transplant is likely more economical than attempting
a repair.
Getting to the tranny flange bolts is not bad if you have a lift long
egoungh extensions, which I have
When I pulled my 240D I left the AT in place. I also put a block of wood
across the TC to make sure it stayed engaged to the primary pump properly.
Ya'll are right about the difficult of splitting the engine and AT when both
are out of the car. When I removed my 911 engine and its 5-speed I
Hans,
Ok. From the symptoms, i thought from the start it was a bad rod, but it
is hard to tell from this distance. I didn't want to see you go to the
expense of pulling the engine if, in fact it was a different problem. Best
wishes.
Loren
At 12:07 PM 3/19/2007, you wrote:
I did pull
Well, I dont have Kleb's experience level I don't think, but have done
this half dozen times so far.
I leave the tranny on the engine every time, AT or manual. Sorry to
not be part of the majority, but it is much easier IMO. I dont want to
have to deal with bell housing bolts under the car.
: Re: [MBZ] best way to pull an engine
When I pulled my 240D I left the AT in place. I also put a block of wood
across the TC to make sure it stayed engaged to the primary pump properly.
Ya'll are right about the difficult of splitting the engine and AT when
both
are out of the car. When I
Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I think one of the key things is to have an engine leveller on the
engine crane. That way you can alter the angle of the engine and
tranny. Also once the unit is out it would make it easier to
position the tranny on blocks of wood.
If you are tempted
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