There is a website I frequent called Quora where people post questions and
others answer them. For some reason this site has attracted many high profile
and top experts in many fields who regularly answer questions.
Today I ran across a question about whether it was safe to jump start an old
I believe the rears are adjustable with shims.
Write up that uses shims:
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?257949-HOW-TO-Fit-Adjustable-camber-toe-EZ-Shims-to-the-rear-beam-stub-axle
Shims:
http://www.eurosportacc.com/products/euro-sport-1-degree-rear-camber-shims-vw-mk1-mk2-mk3
So you’re going to yank the 2.0 and swap in a tdi? I wonder which trans you
have, there are several. Give us a heads up when you eBay the old parts.
The last time I had mine smogged it was at a buddy’s shop, they were dyno
testing them back then and it was close to passing with a hollowed out
Well, you have some issues. Your front camper is way off side to side. From
the factory, it was not adjustable. You can make it adjustable by getting
some special lower strut mount bolts, which will give you some
adjustability. If you change both bolts on each side, you should have about
4 degrees
Is this the starting point or is this the best that the tech could do before he
give up?
Caster isn't adjustable on these cars but camber and toe are easily adjusted in
the front. In the rear, shims are required but they aren't rocket science.
The biggest problem with rear shims is that they
i think i sold them for best offer on ebay for $75, had allot of interest.
i took a bunch of pictures, etc.
i noticed on my emissions tests barely anything registered. so i guess an
engine that is basically working with a tune up and new catalytic converter
will do that? i think california
Congrats.
What did you do with the old cams? Just curious.
On Apr 25, 2016, at 12:21 PM, damac2004 wrote:
looks like i forgot to update my thread. i ended up leaving the second knock
sensor hooked up to the engine which was between cylinder 2 and 3. never
detected
The "how to" you quoted is probably a little extreme for most of us. It
sounds like the car he was dealing with probably sat for decades. It also
has a glaring no no. Where he says he cranked the engine for 5 - 10 minutes
to verify oil pressure would likely fry the starter. You generally never
Hence the reason that so many states are adopting CARB standards defacto,
which solves the inconsistent problem, and for the most part, not in a good
way for the owners of post 1974 pre OBD2 vehicles. Under CARB standards, if
you install say, a Chevy LS3 engine in your '68 Camaro, you must use all
Gee Matt, all this time I thought you lived in the U.S.! ;-). Seriously,
California is, and has been from the beginning of the smog era, thanks to
CARB, just the absolute worst when it comes to emissions testing. And
unfortunately for the rest of the country, many states have followed suit,
and
looks like i forgot to update my thread. i ended up leaving the second
knock sensor hooked up to the engine which was between cylinder 2 and 3.
never detected any pinging on this car. drove the hell out of it, it
seems happy at current timing and isn't hesitating when i stomp on the
pedal.
yet another reason for me to stick to old vw mechanical diesels :)
if there was fuel left over i will just crank them and run them. if not i
could bring an electrical pump in a bucket of fuel to force some new
fuel/atf into the system, maybe sit for a day if the fuel system is crusty
and then
Diesel fuel is inherently more stable than gasoline, at least it used to
be. I've heard some stories about the new low sulfur diesel not being as
stable as the old stuff. That said, it seems the main thing with diesel, is
water in the fuel, but I think most current diesel vehicles have water
traps
What a saga!! I'm glad I don't live in a communist country where smog
inspections are run by Nazis.
On Monday, April 25, 2016 12:31 PM, Holland Phillips
wrote:
Congratulations! Persistence always pays off in the end. I think most of the
smog guys these
Camber correction bolts from Techtonics Tuning website:
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info=2_12_55_id=2510=f462f2ffef5391e33ad16bcb956a4709
On 25 Apr 2016, at 18:03, Holland Phillips wrote:
Bottom line is I would get 4 of the adjustable front camber bolts, and
Excellent, this is what I had in mind, I thought all cars were like this from
factory.
Thanks all.
> On Apr 25, 2016, at 7:39 PM, Holland Phillips
> wrote:
>
> I'm pretty sure that from the factory, all four lower strut bolts are
> identical. I recall that New
I'm pretty sure that from the factory, all four lower strut bolts are
identical. I recall that New Dimensions used to sell the special bolts
which provide the adjustabilty. They were sold in pairs, since most people
were just interested in the ability to set the camber to factory specs, or
to add
Yeah, I'm fortunate to live in a rural county where all my neighbors seem to
own tractors. With the exception of my F350, seemingly ALL the one-tonne
trucks around me have "stacks" and "blow coal". My truck blows coal but it's
hidden underneath and I don't advertise my sympathies for the loss
The bolts and nuts that hold the strut to the wheel bearing housing are one of
two sizes, I believe the size of the shaft of the bolt is 11mm and 12mm, the
thinner one allowing for camber adjustment. Torque nuts with 19mm hex head to
59 ft. lb. and torque the 18mm hex head to 70 ft. lb. Any VW
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