Just like old times...Very nice project.
I remember Radio Shack had lifetime guaranteed tubes, and they wouldn't
replace them if they were marginal. So, I'd pop the tube into a different
socket for a much higher filament voltage, let it glow like a light bulb
till it died (about 1-2 minutes),
https://www.flickr.com/photos/32165280@N02/albums/72157674341385913
Sorry about my feet in one picture.
Terry
On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 1:55:19 PM UTC-5, John Snow wrote:
>
> Congratulations! Looking forward to the finished picture!
>
> On Monday, 3 September 2018 21:01:56 UTC+1,
OK, schematic looks right now
Large filter caps (> 100uF) by themselves wont solve the spike problem. You
will need some series inductance (try 100uH), and some lower-value caps
(0.1uF) in parallel because larger caps dont filter high-frequency noise
very well. Also be sure to have a series
The 3.3V pin can handle up to 50mA of current, and supposedly more if you
use the 5V input power pin rather than the 8V to 20V. I will be using 10mA
LEDs I plan on using this setup, 12V car wire ---> buck converter -->
Arduino Nano 5V input pin. Like you said auto voltage has a lot of
Schematic looks like it has some crossovers, etc. The path for the neon
bulb is: 160 VDC --> Neon bulb ---> Transistor 'C' ---> Transistor 'E'
---> Emitter resistor ---> GND. Then connect the transistor base to your
Arduino device.
If you are driving the LEDs directly from the Arduino, be
The Nano is 43.18mm by 18.54mm so it will fit perfectly into the gauge
housing, the nano has everything I need (14) 5V digital pins 6 analog pins,
though realistically I only need one or two and a 3.3V pin to run the
LED's. And yes I plan on using depth of the gauge housing to my advantage,
Instead of using a Nano, have you considered just using the ATMega328 chip
by itself? I do this all the time for various projects. You can purchase
the DIP-package chip pre-programmed with the Arduino bootloader - just add
a crystal and use a TTL-level USB-serial converter and you're in
By the way I really appreciate all the help you've been, and when I get
this project up and running I will send you a gauge, on me.
On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 2:06:13 PM UTC-4, gregebert wrote:
>
> The value of the emitter resistor is easy to calculate:
>
> Re = (Arduino Output voltage -
Congratulations! Looking forward to the finished picture!
On Monday, 3 September 2018 21:01:56 UTC+1, Terry S wrote:
>
> Mission accomplished! The tester slots are full, and no further tubes are
> needed. Thanks to all of you who helped me fill the tester drawers!
>
> Terry
>
>
--
You received
Yes, the Arduino only has one 3.3V output pin, and I am using that for the
LEDs the rest are all 5V
On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 2:06:13 PM UTC-4, gregebert wrote:
>
> The value of the emitter resistor is easy to calculate:
>
> Re = (Arduino Output voltage - 0.7) / Bulb current
>
> If the
The value of the emitter resistor is easy to calculate:
Re = (Arduino Output voltage - 0.7) / Bulb current
If the Arduino puts out 5V (are you sure it isn't 3.3 ?), and you want
0.7mA, Re is 6140 ohms; I think the nearest standard value is 6.2K
--
You received this message because you are
For arduino nano you may be interested:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/neonixie-l/2p5bFReY7ko
вт, 4 сент. 2018 г. в 7:36, Thomas Kummer :
>
> Sorry I meant 5k resistor.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 4, 2018, at 12:06 AM, gregebert wrote:
>
> For the LEDs, yes
>
> For the neon bulbs,
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