I know this has been posted before, but I can’t find it.
What’s the best way to remove the gas tank filter that’s situated where the
petcock screws in. Is it possible to remove without damaging/scrapping it.
I need to seal the inside of the tank, so I need to remove the filter.
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I rode 15 miles to see a friend, the bike ran really well. On returning, the
bike lost power after 750 yards and came to a halt. I started it again but it
was running really bad, would not rev. I managed to crawl along at 20-30 mph,
but when climbing hills it would cut out. I opened the choke
Hi Graham,
My 96 NH had the same problem. A previous owner drilled and tapped the end and
put a small screw in place with a lock nut. Works really well. Do you know
someone with a lathe, that would be the best way to go.
Hope this helps.
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My speedo wasn’t working, the speedo drive at the wheel was the problem. Inside
the drive there is a thin metal disc that has two indents that the drive
locates in. Mine was split. I brazed it together and now it’s fine.
Also, I tested the speedo itself by inserting a cut off screwdriver into
Hi Graham. No, all standard parts. I think the European bikes had different
tanks than the US bikes. I did have to repair/replace quite a few parts and
then spray the blue bits and the wheels. The original colour was green, but I
prefer the blue. My daughter has a Ford Focus ST that is this
Thanks Darin,
Looks like mine is the CB750 F2T.
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Thank you Graham. I didn’t realise the CB750 was around in 1942 lol.
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I have a 1996 CB750 RC42. Looking on Facebook, someone mentioned that this bike
is different to a Nighthawk. If that is true, does anyone know what the
difference is between the two.
Also, what size main jets should be used. Is it, 110, 112, 112, 110 across the
carbs.
I live in the UK.
Thank
Hi Graham. I misunderstood what you were saying. As I previously said, I
haven’t used a sync tool before and I thought that each carb had a screw that
was taken out and replaced with a screw in rod that was then attached to the
tubes from the gauges. I now realise that only three carbs have
Thanks Graham, just to clarify, you are saying that if I place a T-piece on #2
tube and run an extra pipe from that down to the vacuum pipe.
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I’ve just bought a carb sync set. I’ve never used one before, but as I need to
remove the tank, I was wondering if I need to do anything with the little tube
that the vacuum pipe from the petcock locates on.
Hope you guys are all keeping safe. Due to Coronavirus I haven’t ridden my
bikes this
What’s a good starting point to set the fuel/air screw on the carbs. I’ve seen
settings between 1 3/4 — 2 5/8 turns mentioned.
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I haven’t bypassed the tank. I did bench sync the carbs. Fresh petrol. #4 plug
was dry but with black soot.
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Hi Graham,
I’ve just replaced the carbs for the fourth time after cleaning everything.
Every time I replace them I seem to have a different problem. I replaced the
float valve in #4 because the same problem was there before. I have tried in
the past to remove the float bowl in situ, but gave up
1996 750 NH.
Hi Guys, hope everyone is ok.
The bike appears to running on three cylinders nders.
#4 cylinder appears to be not firing. If I pull the plug lead, the revs stay
the same indicating that there is no spark. Pulled the plug and tested and
there was a really good spark. There is fuel
1996 750 NH.
I’ve just put the carbs back on after completely stripping and cleaning them,
new O rings ( there was a leak ). Cleaned with carb cleaner and blown out with
compressed air.
Started the bike and after a couple of minutes it was idling nicely, but the
number 1 header was cold.
1996 750 Nighthawk.
I dismantled the front brake master cylinder a couple of months back, but left
it as I’ve been doing various other things to the bike. I’ve bought a rebuild
kit for it but I’m confused about a certain washer that is in the kit. In the
diagram ( 13 ) shows the replacement
Sorry Jenya, I didn’t explain my post very well. It’s the 30 amp fuse that has
the solenoid or relay attached, ( not sure what it’s called ).
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1996 N/H.
The flasher switch on the handle bars wasn’t working. I decided to take both
left and right hand switches off and clean them. After replacing them, the
flasher switch was working but the starter switch was dead. Also, turning on
the ignition switch there was no red light, no
Thank you Kyle.
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1996 Nighthawk. Changing my indicators to LED. I’m not familiar with LED, so
can somebody point me in the right direction as to what type ( wattage, size
etc ) I will need. Also, some people say use resistors, others say change the
relay. Is there a straight swap relay that fits the NH that
I’ve seen some new indicators that I like, but the bulbs are only 10W. I’ve
read some reviews about them and they seem to be ok. Would these be ok for my
96 NH.
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I’ve just removed the front brake discs on my 1996 750 NH so I can spray the
wheels. Behind each disc, there are six damping washers item no 45128ME2003. In
The UK each washer is nearly £4.00 each and I need twelve for the two discs. As
the washers that I took off are still in good condition, I
Have a look at WWW.Honda-decals.com.
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I’ve prepped the plastic, do I spray the adhesion promoter on the painted
surface, or just the bare plastic. I have just bought a plastic primer that is
supposed to give extra adhesion to plastic surfaces.
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"Nighthawk
Thank you Surf.
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I want to paint the plastic parts on my Nighthawk. What’s the best primer and
topcoat paint to use. I will be using a compressor in my garage, so 2 pack is
not an option. Also, do I need to strip the old paint back to the plastic or
can I just rub it down.
I have sprayed metal parts before but
1996 CB750.
Does anyone know the dimensions of the O rings that fit on the fuel pipe T
piece that locates between carbs 2 and 3. I replaced mine with 8 x 12 x 2mm
rings. On assembly, I was expecting a tight push fit, but the T piece ( with
Vaseline ) went in quite easily.
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Yes, CMS, but they are very expensive.
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1996 750. I’ve got the carbs off the bike and thought it would be a good idea
to clean the airbox. How are the air tubes that run from the airbox to the
carbs attached to the airbox. Do they just pull out or is there a grommet type
fitting.
I’m concerned about spitting the rubber on removal.
It looks like mine is the A version VE66B = 112 main jet.
Thank you Darin.
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The carb identification number is VE66 ERKB7. Does that identify it as VE66B,
if so the service manual states that a 112 jet is required.
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Took the carbs off today and dismantled them. Checking the jets, carbs 1 & 3
had 112 jets, but carbs 2 & 4 had 110 jets. Is that normal ?.
I’m waiting for some carb cleaner to arrive from eBay, then I’ll give it all a
good clean.
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He had them rebuilt about 12 months ago, but I’ve been starting it ( with a bad
engine ) since then.
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Yes, good spark on all cylinders.
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Hi Graham. No I didn’t rebuild the carbs, but the guy that I bought the bike
from had them rebuilt, with bills as proof. I’ve got a good spark on all
cylinders.
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I tried to remove the carb bowl today but the bolts were really tight and it
looked like the Phillips head was going to strip, so I didn’t go any further.
I started the bike, but it ran really bad. I touched the manifold pipes and 1
and 3 were hot, but 2 was warm and 4 cold. I then noticed that
Thanks guys, I’m in Portugal at present, I’ll give that a try when I get home.
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Yes 4 carb.
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1996 750. I bought this bike as a winter project last year. The bike did start,
so I’ve been concentrating on bits and pieces that needed some work. Tried to
start the bike last week, but it wouldn’t start, so I started looking through
previous posts on this site and decided it was probably the
That’s lovely, what year is it.
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Any recommendations for spark plugs for a 1996 CB750F2 Nighthawk.
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Dyslexia setting in.
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I now have the exhaust back on the bike. Using Graham’s ratchet strap idea on
the mufflers, I then placed a trolley jack under the exhaust. I fitted the
headers in position and then gently jacked up the exhaust. This lifted the
exhaust up, but more importantly, it also pushed the system back
Hi Guys,
I’m having trouble refitting my exhaust. I used the ratchet method (great idea)
and fitted the headers in place, but the other fittings don’t line up for the
bolts to be inserted. I pretty sure it’s the middle bracket that’s the problem,
the one that is attached to the bottom of the
Took the exhaust off to sort some problems, I am now ready to put it back on.
It’s a 96 750.
What’s the best way to put it back on the bike. I had trouble taking it off by
myself, the middle bracket that attaches to the crankcase ( 2 bolts ) seemed to
stop me from moving the exhaust forward to
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