To be precise: the 175s feel harder to spin at higher cadences; for me,
that;s 90+. They feel easier to spin, or to get up to a certain cadence,
*maybe,* at lower cadences, and given the bulk and diameter and contact
patch of the wheels -- 61 mm actual -- compared to the ~ 27 to 31 mm but
far small
I like to think I can get torque slightly more easily with the 175s on my
Matthews, but really, what I feel is that they are slightly harder to spin
compared to the 170s I use on everything else. I certainly couldn't tell a
difference when I briefly used 172.5s on a Ram. There are so many variables
I switched from 172.5 and 175 to 165 because I was getting knee pain and
some research told me that it may have to do with crank length. It worked,
after switching the distance my leg had to travel on each pedal stroke and
for some reason helped the knee pain. The short cranks helped with pedal
4.8 versus 5.1 gain ratio is the leap between 165 and 175 with a 38x16.
Obviously no change in gear inches, but more push needed to get those
inches.
On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 5:51:03 PM UTC-5, Kainalu V. wrote:
>
> I've got a lot of experience using levers, and I always like to use the
I've got a lot of experience using levers, and I always like to use the
longest lever I can that will fit within the confines of the job needing
doing. Sounds like you need a shorter lever to stay within the confines of
the job you need doing, but it'll cost you leverage. Sheldon uses crank arm