Patrick asked me to elaborate on what I liked about a 42t-28t double set
up. Sorry it took so long to respond. This thread is about a single chain
ring setup and I haven't been able to mentally come up with a mathematical
combination of a single chain ring and 8spd cassette that would really
Thanks Dave!
With abandon,
Patrick
On Saturday, March 29, 2014 2:53:17 PM UTC-6, Dave Johnston wrote:
Patrick asked me to elaborate on what I liked about a 42t-28t double set
up. Sorry it took so long to respond. This thread is about a single chain
ring setup and I haven't been able to
When I lived in south east Mi. a long time ago, I had a bike with 44-52 chain
rings and a 14-18 straight block. It was great. These days, living in the SF
east Bay Area, I'm really pleased with 30-46 rings and a 9sp 11-32 cassette. I
am convinced that the right gear setup is entirely dependent
Philip: It IS about chain line, but it's also in defense of the front
derailleur, which to me is indispensible.
BB
On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 7:08:29 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:
I couldn't get my brain around you loving 5 speed internal gear hubs but
hating a 1x setup because they
I think that for people who tend to ride bikes to the extent that they are
on this list would be fairly well versed in bike maintenance. Thus doing
things like preventative maintenance shouldn't be that big of a deal. I
tend to install a new chain about once a year, I actually just ordered 2
Just for grins, here's the 1x1 set up:
It's an old late 70's Fuji Finest that I restored, replaced the fork,
repainted, and had a machinist friend take the teeth off the outer
chainring so it could serve as a bash guard. Then, I flipped the axle caps
on the rear Phil hub to move everything
I run my Handsome Speedy as a 1x (8or9 depending on the wheelset) and
never care too much about cross chaining or anything else on it. It might
wear my chain a tad faster, but it is only going to be used for a season
anyway. $15 toss a new one on and forget it for another year.
The concern
I agree with Doug. The middle rings of triples have for a long time been
generally OK'd for all the rear cogs, and while adding #s10 and 11 have
widened the cogset a bit, with the long stays that most listers have and
with modern very flexible chains I agree it is largely a non-issue.
And this
Regarding widening of the cogset, not all the 10/11 speed setups are wider.
Feel free to correct me here but this is my understanding:
Shimano's 11 is wider than their 7(+spacer)-8-9-10. The 11 speed setup
uses a different hub. The 10 speed is no different than the 8 speed in
total cassette
In my experience fiddling with these things, this is what I've found. All
Shimano, since I've never used any other system (well, Am Classic 10 sp
cassette, but it was designed for use on a Shimano hub).
7 speed is narrower than 8; the freehub body is a wee bit shorter.
8 and 9 are the same
Note that a full cm in additional width between 5 and 10 would mean a total
deflection to each side of only 5 mm.
On Wed, Mar 26, 2014 at 3:02 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
As much as a cm between 5 and 10?
--
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
C'mon, Patrick, you know where to find this info.
http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html
AASHHTA! (although it doesn't have 11 speed Shimano on there yet)
On Wed, Mar 26, 2014 at 4:02 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
In my experience fiddling with these things, this is
Of course, of course.
I note that there is a 1.1 mm difference between S 8 and 9. Is this spec or
is it manufacturing tolerance?
So, between 5 and Shimano 10, 132 mm, or just shy of 7 mm of additional
chain flex. Certainly not inconsiderable, but still, with modern chains and
long stays, I don't
Given the same chain, the wider cassettes would cause a tiny bit more
cross-flex. Probably not worth worrying about.
However, the 9, 10, and 11 speed chains are increasingly thinner. Internet
response seems to feel that the thinner chains wear out dramatically sooner
than a 6-7-8 speed chain.
I read all sorts of contradictory information about the wear of narrower
chains and cogs. Some swear up and down that 10 speed systems wear just
fine. The last thing I heard from someone at a bike shop was that his 9
speed Shimano drivetrain wore faster, but his new 10 lasts at least as long
as 8.
my 2 cents is that chainline is everything in chain wear. Wide 11-rear and
a compact crank gives you a lot of versatility and no waste, but I can see
how chainline is generally better on wide 7-rear and a triple crank.
On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 4:26:50 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
I
I couldn't get my brain around you loving 5 speed internal gear hubs but
hating a 1x setup because they lack a front derailleur... unless it's all
about chainline.
For me, after riding a fixed or dingle setup, having NINE GEARS to choose
from is a crazy luxury.
Philip
www.biketinker.com
On
Ok. So I'm now caught up. I understand the cost and how to shift to a
double 40-24. What range could I get if I wanted to go single ring front
and change the cassette (currently an 8 speed 11-32), without changing
shifters to get the maximum range out of a 24 or 26 ring up front? I have
Silver
I found expander sprocket for a 10-speed
cassette:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/hope-t-rex-expander-sprocket/rp-prod119003
which then gives an 11-40 range. Will a 10-speed cassette require different
shifters, derailure, etc?
RIv. sells the 9-speed cassette (for $50) that is
Hi Patrick,
I read through the thread, and I hope I understand what you're trying to do:
The riding I do is mostly in the 24...-- Is the 24T adequate? Is it too
high or too low for your 8-spd 11-32 cassette? Do you spend your time
mainly on the 11 or mainly on the 32 or in the middle (or maybe
Thanks, Shoji. As I play with this more, It makes sense to me to take
things one step at a time. I am thinking:
-- update cassette to 9-speed 12-36. This will allow me to ride most all
the time in my middle chainring with my current 24/36/46 front chain rings.
(You are right, I almost never
I think that 12-36 with a 26/40/chainguard in front would be perfect for
you, Deacon
On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 10:10:06 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Thanks, Shoji. As I play with this more, It makes sense to me to take
things one step at a time. I am thinking:
-- update cassette to
Possibly, Bill. I'm going to see how I like riding the 36 front/36 rear and
staying mostly in the middle front cog. To just the middle cog to a 40
means I lose that most often in the middle cog capability and I end up with
the same issue I have now of often shifting between low and middle. I'm
Converted my Handsome Devil from a Sugino XD triple to a compact double to
finally a single chain ring 1x9 set up 36t chain ring and 12-36t 9 speed
cassette. The gear inch range from 27.2 to 81.5 works well for hilly West
Seattle and I have had so few issues with chain drops that the Paul
Sorry, but I'm just not getting (or buying into) this 1x fad... AND I
believe chain line is really important and cross-chaining IS bad, despite
what some claim about their ridiculous 1x11 setups. Someone please
convince me otherwise. WHAT is so awful about a front derailleur and a
triple
I put the 12-36 on the tandem and we ride it 95% in the 40 middle ring.
Since you're riding offroad, I would think the 36-36 combo would be plenty
low for most situations. If you have a gnarly grade to climb, then flog
your granny ;)
I did have to change the derailer to work with the 36 btw. I
Deacon,
Map out your most travelled route or routes with Google Pedometer/Earth (or
similar).
Extract an elevation profile.
Discuss those results with the folks at Riv. Or post links here... for
discussion.
Seems to me that establishing your vertical terrain challenges is the place
to
Bobby - I agree with you for the most part. The only reasons I converted
one of my road bikes to a 1xSS are 1) the rails/trails MUPs around the area
here are surfaced with compacted limestone tailings or screenings (the
final remnant left over from when crushed limestone rock is sifted
George:
Perhaps you might consider an internal-geared hub? I am building up a 1x5
Spectro on an old mid-80s Rockhopper... simplicity, decent range, and
low-maintenance.
BB
On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 4:41:20 PM UTC-4, George Schick wrote:
Bobby - I agree with you for the most part. The
I ride my Sam everywhere I go, which is mostly to and from work and around
town, about 2000 miles a year. When I was building it up I got the
26/40/bashguard Sugino crank from Riv and an 11-28 (32?) 8 speed cassette.
I delayed putting a front derailer on it until I saw my usage patterns.
After
I think it depends on the terrain one is riding. Here in Chicago, I know I
will never need more than a single chainring and that using the larger cogs
or smallest cog in the rear will be at a minimum. I understand concerns
about cross-chaining, but I know that 99% of my riding will be within
Bobby,
It's all about simplicity. I used to ride a bike with all the different
gears, a Garmin GPS to track my mileage and speed, a cadence meter, etc. I
just got sick of all that extra stuff. On my new bike, I originally had
the double chainrings, but I was never using the big ring, so it
I was looking at these, too. Apparently the thick/thin chainrings are the
new thing. I could go with a 1x9 for a bike...
Philip
www.biketinker.com
On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:52:31 PM UTC-7, Sine Wave wrote:
Check out the Wolf Tooth chainrings; they're designed specifically to work
with
When I was at NAHBS SRAM was showing off their new 1 X 11 cyclocross group
set. It looks very promising. Now if I could get a thumb shifter with this
set up it might work really well for me.
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This intrigues me. I'm getting frustrated with the complexity of my triple,
and essentially my big ring is my ring guard. I got lost in the technical
jargon though. Could you please explain things to a dummy (because you
would be. Grin.)? I currently have the Sugino XD2 Crank, Triple 46x36x24.
Most gears I have are 1x5. Could not be happier.
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To post to
Patrick:
Rivendell can help you with your cranky desires. :)
Ring guard http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/chrg.htm.
Chainrings in 40t http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/chr-40.htm, or in 43
and 45 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/chr2.htm.
If you change your triple to a double + ring guard,
On 03/24/2014 05:30 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
This intrigues me. I'm getting frustrated with the complexity of my
triple, and essentially my big ring is my ring guard. I got lost in
the technical jargon though. Could you please explain things to a
dummy (because you would be. Grin.)? I
Oh, I understand that about the triple. But I would prefer to get rid of
the cross over. The riding I do is mostly in the 24, but then there are
sections of flat and down where pedaling is needed at higher speeds. I'd
prefer to simplify things. I spoke with Riv, and it's not too bad to shift
On 03/24/2014 06:18 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Oh, I understand that about the triple. But I would prefer to get rid
of the cross over. The riding I do is mostly in the 24, but then there
are sections of flat and down where pedaling is needed at higher
speeds. I'd prefer to simplify things. I
Thanks, Steve. Maybe I'm using cross over incorrectly. I mean the issue
where you don't want to use your small gears when you're in your small
front ring and vice-versa for the big cog. I'm fine with shifting down or
up five gears when I shift the front one.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Monday,
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7aVBgxuotQA/UzDQr09B-sI/ADo/efYAQ7tb6UQ/s1600/42-28T.JPG
Patrick,
I can highly recommend a double using your Sugino crank and only the middle
and inner positions.
I am using a BBG Guard-42t-28t on an old XTR 110/74 crank with a wide range
11-34t on
Thanks, Dave. Would you mind elaborating on what you love about the wide
range double? I realize we ride different surfaces and terrain, but I am
trying to understand the experiential difference. Can I use all the gears
in each?
With abandon,
Patrick
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You received this message because you
Patrick:
In addition to Steve's mention of the wear factor on the 24, another good
reason to shift up as soon as you're over the top of a climb is to avoid
chain slap / fall-off. It's easy to just shift up 2-3 cogs in back while
leaving the front on the granny. The chain can be pretty slack
Except for the price tag, the 11x1 drivetrains sure look attractive. Thank
you all for helping me explore the pros and cons of a wide range double.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Monday, March 24, 2014 7:15:47 PM UTC-6, dougP wrote:
Patrick:
In addition to Steve's mention of the wear factor on
On 03/24/2014 09:53 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Except for the price tag, the 11x1 drivetrains sure look attractive.
However, chain angularity doesn't look too good for such drivetrains;
what's more, the range isn't as good as you can get with two chain rings.
Honestly, it's not like chain
On 03/24/2014 09:12 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Thanks, Dave. Would you mind elaborating on what you love about the
wide range double? I realize we ride different surfaces and terrain,
but I am trying to understand the experiential difference. Can I use
all the gears in each?
No, you do not
On 03/24/2014 07:53 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Thanks, Steve. Maybe I'm using cross over incorrectly. I mean the
issue where you don't want to use your small gears when you're in your
small front ring and vice-versa for the big cog. I'm fine with
shifting down or up five gears when I shift the
Patrick,
I changed my 26/36/46 to 26/40/bashguard last year. It was easy to do and I
couldn't be happier with it. All that was required was to remove the middle
and outer chainrings and install the new ones. No messing around with BB,
FD or anything else.
In fact, I liked not shifting in
To get more tension from the RD and fewer chain drops try adjusting the
RD's spring. See step
7: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul
Jon
Watertown, MA
On Monday, February 24, 2014 6:38:55 PM UTC-5, HunqRider wrote:
Wondering if anyone is thinking about
Jon,
Thanks for the advice! I did not know about that tension adjustment hole
in the rear derailler. My setup is dialed in perfectly right now, but if
the chain gets slack over time, it's nice to know that I can adjust the RD
spring tension instead of messing with the chain length.
--
You
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