On Jun 21, 1:02 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
Lighter rubber and/or lighter wheels on the Sam are an excellent place to
start.
And I appreciate the suggestion to enjoy the slowness. :)
But it's not really an illusion - on a different bike (29er mtn bike with
2.2 knobbys) i
My similar data-point:
http://cyclotourist.blogspot.com/2010/05/bike-servations.html
That was on a flat route though.
On Sun, Jun 20, 2010 at 5:54 PM, Bill Gibson bill.bgib...@gmail.com wrote:
Perception of speed is just that: subjective. Enjoy your ride! To go
fast, get a good night's
Perception of speed is just that: subjective. Enjoy your ride! To go
fast, get a good night's sleep, eat drink well, be well, don't wear
flappy clothes, find your fast tires (which may or may not the most
durable). In that order.
The engine, the air, then tires. If it's hilly, OK, lose weight,
On Mon, 2010-06-14 at 20:30 -0700, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
But now that you mentioned
it, maybe Jan Heine can repeat his tire rolling resistance tests,
except to test the effect of different numbers and lacing patterns of
spokes.
Wouldn't a drum test work even better?
--
Or, my favorite solution: reject the dominant racing paradigm and
embrace your slowness!
By far the best advice!
On Jun 14, 8:39 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote:
The spoke count matters very little compared to the weight of the tire/
tube/rim combination. You can
I posted similar questions to yours a while back as Speed Up My
Sam. I had just abandoned my racing bike for a Sam and was
struggling with how sluggish it felt when climbing and generally
losing 2-3 mph over my average pace. I ultimately just rode the
century with my commuting wheels, fenders
Just my humble opinion but finishing a ride slower that a previous
one of equal distance can be due to many factors, fitness level, wind
and weather, proper hydration and food intake, tire pressure, etc.
etc.
Most people ( not here for the most part) think bigger tires means
slower. I guess I
Good point Mike. Rolling resistance is a huge factor. If the rides
are on relatively debris free roads, the Schwalbe Kojak is another
comfotably wide tire that rolls very freely.
On Jun 15, 1:13 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
Just my humble opinion but finishing a ride slower
i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara
Supremems.
Andrew: Those are pretty big tires. For sure quite comfortable to
ride (I know mine are!), but a lot of rubber to move as well. A
lighter, tire coupled to lighter wheelset will make a big difference.
Andrew
Dont forget to consider the rear wheel spacing. Your Hillborne is
135mm, but if you go to a traditional go-fast, you may find yourself
shopping for a 130mm rear wheel all over again.
On Jun 13, 10:39 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
thanks guys - good suggestion.
i'm using
Don't forget the upcoming Rivendell/Soma collaboration (Amos?)-
basically a road bike for 57mm calipers (like Ram, Rom, and Roadeo)
with the expanded geos. Sounds like exactly what you're looking for.
On Jun 13, 7:17 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
hi folks,
i loved riding my first
ah.. i had forgotten the not-Amos.
that or a SimpleOne will prob be my next, then..
thanks!
andrew
On Jun 14, 2010, at 11:37 AM, Jeremy Till wrote:
Don't forget the upcoming Rivendell/Soma collaboration (Amos?)-
basically a road bike for 57mm calipers (like Ram, Rom, and Roadeo)
with the
The spoke count matters very little compared to the weight of the tire/
tube/rim combination. You can save a bunch of rolling weight and
probably improve rolling resistance, for example, simply by switching
to an ultralight tube (I almost always use ultralight tubes). You save
even more rolling
you might find a subtle, yet fine difference with an off the rack
Gunnar Sport...with a carbon fork. i think bikes with longer
chainstays seem slower. the Sport is just a bit shorter that way
and the geometry is a tad more upright in the front and about the same
in the seat tube compared to the
Eric Hjertberg, who knows more about wheels than the rest of the
planet combined, told me that the combined frontal area of 36 spokes
is more than the bicycle frame itself, plus the spokes are spinning
through the air as the bike moves forward, further adding drag to our
forward movement. Thus,
I don't want to get into a 2nd hand argument with Eric Hjertberg about
aerodynamics of spokes, but I would suggest that the OP is riding a
Hillborne (not the usual choice for the TT crowd) and that he just did
his first century with relatively large, heavy touring tires. I'm sure
there are at
FWIW, my buddy uses 26 tubes in his 29er wheels. They're lighter than 29er
UL tubes (and half the cost) as well as the tubeless fluids/strips. He's
pretty happy with his set up, and doesn't puncture very often. He says it's
not a hassle to mount them, but YMMV.
On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 8:30
Now that you mention Jan Heine, today I received my BQ for the summer of
2010 and in it, there is a very interesting article and discussion regarding
whether modern bicycles are actually faster than older ones based on an
analysis of Tour de France speed. I haven't read it yet, just finished
We use UL 26x2.4-2.7 tubes in Surly Endomorph/Larry 26x3.7 tires.
Saves about a pound per wheel over the standard tube. Haven't had one
of these flat yet.
On Jun 14, 11:01 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
FWIW, my buddy uses 26 tubes in his 29er wheels. They're lighter than 29er
A pound per wheel... wow!
On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 9:17 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
thill@gmail.com wrote:
We use UL 26x2.4-2.7 tubes in Surly Endomorph/Larry 26x3.7 tires.
Saves about a pound per wheel over the standard tube. Haven't had one
of these flat yet.
On Jun 14, 11:01 pm,
If you like your Sam, you may be able to get the extra boost you want
for cheap with an event wheel set. You do not say what you are using
currently, but if it is optimal for commuting, it is a probably
heavier with wider tires.
Get your favorite hubsets in 32h configuration, match them to a set
Seems to me that the Sam would be just fine for both, unless you have
a heavy rack/heavy tires on it.
I wanted a fast-ish, stripped-down skinny tire bike and found an old
Trek on Craiglist for $120. Lots of great deals out there for nice
old steel bikes.
Ryan
On Jun 13, 7:46 pm, JoelMatthews
I would recommend some lighter, and more importantly, far more aero
wheels. In this day and age, such wheels, with, for example, 24 spokes
front and rear, are totally bomber if you buy from a reputable brand.
I have ridden piles of miles on such wheels in the dirt, without a
hitch. Cyclocross
thanks guys - good suggestion.
i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara
Supremems.
a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and
then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :)
best,
andrew
--
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