Re: [RBW] Re: You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed......

2010-07-17 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Well, I just measured saddle setback and found it fully a cm or more back
than my already far back normal measurement of 3 1/2 (71* sa instead of my
others' 73) and I changed that. I'll see what a bit more forward does. And,
I adjusted the wheel circumference measurement; not by a huge amount but
probably by 3% which will make about half a mph at 16-19 mph cruising
speeds. And, probably, the front and rear panniers make a difference in the
breezes we always have (they were unladen today).

On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:32 PM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.comwrote:

 yea... If that was a 58 I'd be all over it.  Hill or no hill.

 Patrick, as another Hillborne owner I am having the opposite
 expereince with mine. It seems really fast for a bike with 38mm tires
 ( Marathon Racers).  I'm very happy with the ride and handling of the
 bike.

 ~Mike~


 On Jul 16, 7:20 pm, jinxed hbcl...@yahoo.com wrote:
  I'll vote yes.
 
  I saved this from a long slow rusty death years ago and made it my
  single speed.
 
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/42027...@n00/4800182153/#/photos/4202757...
 
  Although I have not used it much since picking up a Rivendell, I am
  glad I have it. I routinely rode it up a 15% (albeit short .25 mile)
  hill on my commutes home with a 42/17. Although the hills in and
  around Denver can get steep in places, it was still great for the
  majority of my riding. I could roll the flats at 20mph with a good
  spin, but still get up the hills without too much grunt.
 
  Plus, Kenneth nailed it on the Rohloff.

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Re: [RBW] Re: How do you Southerners do this?

2010-07-17 Thread Dan Abelson
On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:23 PM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:

 Wednesday, it was hot and humid enough here in the Twin Cities I took
 the day off from riding.  The dewpoint ended up at 77 degrees.  Temp
 about 91 and heat index of 106.  Although will admit we're usually not
 in the DC category.  And that comes from having a couple of business
 trips out there in 2007 and 2008.


 no early start.)

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN



I also took Wednesday off from riding in the Twin Cities.  It was just too
hot and humid for me to ride.  I actually much prefer riding in zero degree
weather in the winter to hot humid days.  Hot and not humid does not bother
me as much.

Dan Abelson
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Schwalbe Dureme Supply, and others

2010-07-17 Thread Garth
I've been trying to track down some 28x2.0 Duremes, and it seems even
Schwalbe is out, and they have no idea when they'll be in stock
again. . other than 8 weeks minimum. Not what I wanted to hear.
So, I started looking outside the US, but only found one place that
had modest shipping costs. This place is in Belgium.
http://bike-parts.at-cost.org/tyres.html

They seem to have all Schwalbe tires, including some XR's in 50-622.

I'm not sure if I trust them or not, but I may place an order. They
only take Paypal for US buyers. Shipping appears to be $20 for two
tires. $40 for up to five.

I thought I'd pass it along , as I know some have wanted some XR's .
Buy at your own risk I suppose. But if you need some like I do . I
don't know  maybe. It appears legit, but don't they all.

-cheers

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[RBW] Re: How do you Southerners do this?

2010-07-17 Thread SISDDWG
Michael:

I live one block off the Pacific Hwy. in Montara, CA about 20 miles
south of S.F. The temp here almost never gets above 70 degrees. San
Diego has the most perfect weather in the entire USA. Beautiful any
time of the year. I lived most of my life in New Orleans where the
temp and humidity is unbearable much of the time. A bike ride May
through September is like a swim in the Mississippi River. Once I got
dehydrated and was hospitalized. Very hot weather is dangerous.

On Jul 16, 6:48 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 It's been in the high 80's to mid 90s here in nothern VT for the past
 two weeks, with dew ponts around 70.  I find I'm getting slower and
 slower.  I keep topped up on fluids and electrolites, but I am finding
 myself feeling pretty fried.  This mornings commute  took about 20
 -25% longer, just because ... well just because I went so much
 slower.  I'm pretty good riding in temps between 15 - 85, but this is
 draining me.

 How do those of you from souther Cal, or NM do this?  You must have to
 ride in this kind of weather for a big chunk of the year.

 Michael
 Westford, Vt

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[RBW] Re: You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed......

2010-07-17 Thread Garth

There's always another frame.  Wait until the bids are done, you may
not feel so bad.

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[RBW] Re: Friday Mixed Terrain Ride Report

2010-07-17 Thread Mike
Looks like a great ride. Glad you're enjoying the bike and putting it
to good use.

--mike

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[RBW] Re: How do you Southerners do this?

2010-07-17 Thread Garth

I deal with it by taking a small towel and/or bandanna with me to wipe
the sweat off. The towel works great for a quick stop to dry off,
especially after a big hill, and I have lots of them around my
home so I usually just end up holding the towel in my hands the
whole time.

I'm old school on drinks and foods. Melons. Honeydew and Crenshaw are
favorites. I can eat one a day. They are perfect consumables for the
heat and do well to replenish you.

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Re: [RBW] Re: You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed......

2010-07-17 Thread Andreas Taenzer
You totally need it.
Hope that helps.

There are three roads to my house:
1) 18%
2) 14%
3) 13%

The bike I road most is my quickbeam (fixed).

Actually, some when last week I passed the 25,000 mile mark on the 'beam.
Have to celebrate and treat it to a new handlebar wrap... but that harlekin
wrap is just too pretty.

On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 4:36 PM, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:

 I lived on a 15% grade for a while.  Get the singlespeed.

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[RBW] Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread Powderpiggy
I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
only bike has a cassette.

What would you upgrade and why?

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[RBW] Re: Silver shifter break apart diagram

2010-07-17 Thread David T.
I had that happen, I looked at the other one to figure it out. After I
spent about half an hour finding the little spring on the carpet.

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[RBW] Re: Maximum Honjo fender size compatible with Silver Sidepull and/or Paul Racer brakes

2010-07-17 Thread Powderpiggy
So I am planning to purchase a betty foy and wanted to put Hetres on
it.  Did you find a problem with brake clearance and fenders large
enough to accommodate the hetres?

On Jun 24, 1:45 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm getting a Betty Foy for my daughters to ride (and me to use as well...),
 but the frame arrival is still 3+ weeks away...

 I decided to order red Hetre tires and their corresponding Honjo fenders,
 which upon arrival, happen to have a label that states they are 60mm (sold
 by BQ).

 It dawned on my, after talking with Keven, that the frame clearance wasn't
 going to be the issue, but the brake clearance. I'm going to measure the
 clearance that my Racer brakes have on my AHH, and I also have a spare set
 of Silver brakes that originally came with the AHH. Knowing that what I'll
 measure may not necessarily correlate to real-life use, I'm wondering if
 anyone here has had any experience with what the maximum clearance for Honjo
 fenders with these brakes will be.

 I know I'll be able to use the tires fenderless, and Keven thinks that the
 SKS fenders will probably fit as well. I was set on the Honjos, and the
 version BQ sells is very beautiful. I'd hate not to be able to use them.

 Thanks for any feedback!

 René

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[RBW] Re: You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed......

2010-07-17 Thread David T.
I just looked up something that I read in Frank Berto’s book:

“With a cyclist’s entire weight on the pedal, the maximum rideable
gear in inches is seven times the slope denominator. Thus, a 1-in-10
incline requires a 70-inch gear.”

(In other words, on a 10 % slope, with all your weight on the pedal,
and a 70-inch gear you would just be stationary. But in reality, if
you pulled up on the handlebars, you could make a little progress. )

If I work things out correctly, a 15 % grade would be 1-in-6.67. Using
the formula above, this would give a maximum usable gear of 7 X 6.67 =
46.7 gear inches.

( That’s the maximum usable gear, not that it would be a fun ride. )

I am not sure how people know the grade of a hill either, other than
just by eyeballing it.

But I can say, in my experience, riding a single-speed bike will
gradually make you a better climber, so that after maybe six months or
a year, you can go up  hills quicker and easier than you would have
done previously in a lower gear.


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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Dureme Supply, and others

2010-07-17 Thread Michael_S
catchy web address name.  It seems lately with the Pound and Euro down
against the dollar that buying from Europe is much more commonplace. I
have done it many times.

~Mike~

On Jul 16, 11:06 am, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've been trying to track down some 28x2.0 Duremes, and it seems even
 Schwalbe is out, and they have no idea when they'll be in stock
 again. . other than 8 weeks minimum. Not what I wanted to hear.
 So, I started looking outside the US, but only found one place that
 had modest shipping costs. This place is in 
 Belgium.http://bike-parts.at-cost.org/tyres.html

 They seem to have all Schwalbe tires, including some XR's in 50-622.

 I'm not sure if I trust them or not, but I may place an order. They
 only take Paypal for US buyers. Shipping appears to be $20 for two
 tires. $40 for up to five.

 I thought I'd pass it along , as I know some have wanted some XR's .
 Buy at your own risk I suppose. But if you need some like I do . I
 don't know  maybe. It appears legit, but don't they all.

 -cheers

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[RBW] S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-17 Thread Mike
So tent or no tent for an S24O? This is actually more of a +24O where
I'm gonna do approx 60 miles the first day and maybe 100+ the second
day, taking in SW portions of the Mt Hood National Forest. I'm
tentatively planning on camping by a lake so I'm thinking there's
gonna be mosquitos so I'm thinking I might want my tent... well, and
it is OR, so rain is always a possibility... I like the idea of nixing
the tent as I could just carry everything in my Carradice Nelson LF
and a medium Wald basket up front. Just kind of curious what people
think. Obviously if there's any chance of rain in the forecast I'll
take the tent.

Tentative plan is to do this ride over two days as opposed to one day
which totally wrecked me last year.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157621778650380/

Riv content: I'm gonna ride my Hilsen.

--mike

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[RBW] Re: How do you Southerners do this?

2010-07-17 Thread MichaelH
At about 3:00 AM this morning I realized that the absence of home AC
is probably a big difference between VT  NM.  I estimate that I've
lost the equivalent of 2 hours sleep every night for the past two
weeks.
Hard to recover from that and feel like yourself on a bicycle.

michael
On Jul 16, 10:48 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Shoot, swamp coolers don't work well unless the humidity is under 20%, and
 one does notice 20%;  I've seen it as low as 4%, lower than the Sahara, and
 sub 10% is common, but, really, 20% is quite bearable. Now 30% 

 I was born in the WDC area and moved back there for five years in 1984, so I
 know the climate. I remember thinking that, in summer, when the humidity
 dropped into the 30s on a hot afternoon, it felt dry. And I remember 85
 degree mornings with 90 percent humidity.

 Much prefer an oven.





 On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 2:15 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
  On Fri, 2010-07-16 at 13:22 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
   It's when the humidity soars to over 20% that things get unbearable.
                           ^
  That really is funny.  Only a desert dweller would have come up with
  that.  Do we EVER have humidity as low as 20% here in the DC area?
  Right now, it's 97 degrees with 38% humidity.  By 3 am, it's supposed to
  get down to a mere 81 degrees with 69% humidity.

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 For professional resumes, contact
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 - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed......

2010-07-17 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 6:56 PM, David T. davidtren...@yahoo.ca wrote:



 But I can say, in my experience, riding a single-speed bike will
 gradually make you a better climber, so that after maybe six months or
 a year, you can go up  hills quicker and easier than you would have
 done previously in a lower gear.


I've found this too, to the extent that, trying to twiddle up the same hills
in a granny gear on the Sam Hill, my only multispeed bike, I very quickly
get winded; odd to discover that. I have to upshift and pedal harder to get
my breath back.

(Tho' of course there is a measure here; unwarmed up, on a hot day, facing a
1/2 mile long steep hill, it certainly feels nice to have, say, a 52 gear
instead of a 67; even when the 31 is too low -- 36X19, 46X19, 36X32.)



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Re: [RBW] Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread PATRICK MOORE
First, I'd get a cassette hub instead of a fw hub; much easier to find
replacement clusters. Perhaps others know something I don't and fws are
easier to find that I know, but one certainly sees more ads for cassettes
than for fws.

As to PW quality: My 1999 custom Joe Starck road fixied turned 10,000 miles
not too long ago -- I found that the Avocet 35 had been stuck at 9,999 for
some time, so I don't know how long ago -- and the Phil rear hub and the
Phil bb are as new, to tell by their smoothness. Of course, the old SunTour
cartridge front and the Tange RollerBall headseat are also as new 

On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 3:02 PM, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.netwrote:

 I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
 online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
 her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
 huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
 thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
 get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
 not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

 I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
 longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
 or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
 purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

 Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
 thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
 hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
 intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
 that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
 only bike has a cassette.

 What would you upgrade and why?

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Albuquerque, NM
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Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-17 Thread cyclotourist
I've never used a tent on S24Os, but don't live in OR... try leaving it if
the forecast is solid.

On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 7:27 AM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

 So tent or no tent for an S24O? This is actually more of a +24O where
 I'm gonna do approx 60 miles the first day and maybe 100+ the second
 day, taking in SW portions of the Mt Hood National Forest. I'm
 tentatively planning on camping by a lake so I'm thinking there's
 gonna be mosquitos so I'm thinking I might want my tent... well, and
 it is OR, so rain is always a possibility... I like the idea of nixing
 the tent as I could just carry everything in my Carradice Nelson LF
 and a medium Wald basket up front. Just kind of curious what people
 think. Obviously if there's any chance of rain in the forecast I'll
 take the tent.

 Tentative plan is to do this ride over two days as opposed to one day
 which totally wrecked me last year.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157621778650380/

 Riv content: I'm gonna ride my Hilsen.

 --mike

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David
Redlands, CA

Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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Re: [RBW] Re: How do you Southerners do this?

2010-07-17 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 8:38 AM, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

 At about 3:00 AM this morning I realized that the absence of home AC
 is probably a big difference between VT  NM.  I estimate that I've
 lost the equivalent of 2 hours sleep every night for the past two
 weeks.
 Hard to recover from that and feel like yourself on a bicycle.


I know that feeling; long ago, used to suffer from insomnia but, now, thank
God, I usually sleep very well.

Fortunately I have refrigerated air and I keep the thermostat at a 24/7 76F
-- cheaper that way and thus more energy efficient; highest bill, last
month's with 10 to 14 days of near 100F cost me $63 and change for a 1250 sq
ft house -- and have ceiling fans in every room. If you have shade and a bit
of breeze -- typical --  here in the desert, and it is not the rainy
season, you will be comfortable at 80+ thanks to sweat evaporation. My
mother's house, shaded by trees from the south, is cool until 4 or 5 pm --
one finds a house hottest at the first part of after-dark as the house
radiates it's peak heat. My pear tree is a baby so my house gets much
hotter.

But even dry heat will get you down if you push yourself too hard, as I
found out early this season.

Patrick master of the subordinate clause Moore

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread Patrick in VT
On Jul 16, 5:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:

  I am hugely
 intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
 that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
 only bike has a cassette.

phil hubs are great.  and so are white industries' and chris king's.
but so are shimano's.  if you work on your own stuff, it might simply
be a question of whether you prefer sealed bearings or repacking the
hub.  both are pretty easy to work on.   phil's are blingy, so there
are points for that if it matters to you.  is it a big upgrade from,
let's say shimano ultegra to phil?  i say no.  the money saved can go
elsewhere on the bike.

regarding, freewheels - you should consider what kind of drivetrain
you want to use.  If you're in love with 6 or 7 speed friction
shifting and sourcing your favorite freewheels, then by all means, go
with the phil.  if not, then stick with modern hubs and cassettes.

have fun.  sounds like it will be a great bike!


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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread SISDDWG
You're on target about upgrading wheels. I have two bikes with Phil
Wood freewheel hubs. Other than a polish now and then I haven't
touched them in twelve years! Freewheel hubs are less expensive than
the cassette hubs and there still seems to be a good availability of
freewheels. Unless the Phils will break you I would bite the bullet
and get them. You'll never have to even think about hubs again.

On Jul 16, 2:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
 online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
 her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
 huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
 thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
 get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
 not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

 I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
 longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
 or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
 purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

 Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
 thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
 hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
 intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
 that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
 only bike has a cassette.

 What would you upgrade and why?

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[RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-17 Thread Jim Cloud
If mosquitos are a significant concern, I'd suggest that you carry a
tent.  Most of my camping experiences (backpacking and bicycle
touring) have included a tent.  I've always had a small backpacking
tent which was lightweight and easy to carry (currently an older
Sierra Designs Flashlight model, which weighs slightly over 3 lbs.).

Having mosquitos hungrily humming around your exposed body is not a
nice way to experience the great outdoors!  Depending on where you
plan to camp, a tent also gives you a bit of privacy.

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

On Jul 17, 7:27 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 So tent or no tent for an S24O? This is actually more of a +24O where
 I'm gonna do approx 60 miles the first day and maybe 100+ the second
 day, taking in SW portions of the Mt Hood National Forest. I'm
 tentatively planning on camping by a lake so I'm thinking there's
 gonna be mosquitos so I'm thinking I might want my tent... well, and
 it is OR, so rain is always a possibility... I like the idea of nixing
 the tent as I could just carry everything in my Carradice Nelson LF
 and a medium Wald basket up front. Just kind of curious what people
 think. Obviously if there's any chance of rain in the forecast I'll
 take the tent.

 Tentative plan is to do this ride over two days as opposed to one day
 which totally wrecked me last year.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157621778650380/

 Riv content: I'm gonna ride my Hilsen.

 --mike

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Re: [RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-17 Thread Bill Connell
I'm with Jim. Weather- and weight-wise there's no reason to carry a
tent this time of year around here, but i'd do it just for the bugs
after dark. When shopping for a family tent earlier this year, my 2
main criteria were very good ventilation for hot buggy nights, and
full coverage with the rain fly (because when it does rain on me
camping, it seems to come sideways).

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN



On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 10:04 AM, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:
 If mosquitos are a significant concern, I'd suggest that you carry a
 tent.  Most of my camping experiences (backpacking and bicycle
 touring) have included a tent.  I've always had a small backpacking
 tent which was lightweight and easy to carry (currently an older
 Sierra Designs Flashlight model, which weighs slightly over 3 lbs.).

 Having mosquitos hungrily humming around your exposed body is not a
 nice way to experience the great outdoors!  Depending on where you
 plan to camp, a tent also gives you a bit of privacy.

 Jim Cloud
 Tucson, AZ

 On Jul 17, 7:27 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 So tent or no tent for an S24O? This is actually more of a +24O where
 I'm gonna do approx 60 miles the first day and maybe 100+ the second
 day, taking in SW portions of the Mt Hood National Forest. I'm
 tentatively planning on camping by a lake so I'm thinking there's
 gonna be mosquitos so I'm thinking I might want my tent... well, and
 it is OR, so rain is always a possibility... I like the idea of nixing
 the tent as I could just carry everything in my Carradice Nelson LF
 and a medium Wald basket up front. Just kind of curious what people
 think. Obviously if there's any chance of rain in the forecast I'll
 take the tent.

 Tentative plan is to do this ride over two days as opposed to one day
 which totally wrecked me last year.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157621778650380/

 Riv content: I'm gonna ride my Hilsen.

 --mike

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread rperks
I love mine, five or 6 speeds in the rear is all I seem to need.  I
think with the Foy you can get a dishless 7 speed wheel build that
will be very strong and last a very long time as others have stated.
If you are heavy or plan to load the rear the benifits of added
strength and even spoke length are enough to sway the decision for
me.  Yes there are other makers of nice hubs, but the Phil freewheels
hit a sweet spot for me.

Plus they look really cool

Rob

On Jul 16, 2:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
 online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
 her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
 huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
 thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
 get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
 not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

 I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
 longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
 or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
 purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

 Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
 thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
 hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
 intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
 that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
 only bike has a cassette.

 What would you upgrade and why?

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread jamison brosseau
i would get a non budget shimano wheelset.  those hubs last a long
time, and with the money you save, you can afford to outfit your  bike
with all the racks and bags you will need.
jamison


On Jul 17, 11:30 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 I love mine, five or 6 speeds in the rear is all I seem to need.  I
 think with the Foy you can get a dishless 7 speed wheel build that
 will be very strong and last a very long time as others have stated.
 If you are heavy or plan to load the rear the benifits of added
 strength and even spoke length are enough to sway the decision for
 me.  Yes there are other makers of nice hubs, but the Phil freewheels
 hit a sweet spot for me.

 Plus they look really cool

 Rob

 On Jul 16, 2:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:

  I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
  online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
  her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
  huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
  thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
  get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
  not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

  I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
  longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
  or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
  purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

  Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
  thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
  hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
  intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
  that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
  only bike has a cassette.

  What would you upgrade and why?



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[RBW] Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-17 Thread manueljohnacosta
Grant's new post intrigued some thoughts within my weary brain. Found
on the Rivendell site.

Now almost every bike abovet $300 has a shock fork and almost no bike
below a Surly is steel. Fuji has one. Raleigh has eleven. Raleigh's
slogan in the ancient days, way before mom and dad met, was The All-
Steel Bicycle, and I think Raleigh now is trying to recapture the
spirit, maybe.

It would be so easy to tig-weld a cheap bike that was Affordable Yet
Fully Wholeheartedly Endorseable, but we're locked in to lugs, and
it's staying that way. Over the years we've talked a little about
making a Super Cheap with lugs, but the lower limit isn't all that
low, because the labor is so much more intensive.

It makes some sense, though. Everybody needs a beater and too many
people are afraid to make their Rivbike into the bike they can lock
outside the movie theater or bookstore for a few hours. I'm thinking
of a way to do it, and it's not looking likely, but it's not been
ruled out yet, either, and it's not a front-burner project. I will get
to it if at all in many moons.

I for one love my bleriot. The ride and the functionally has far
surpassed my expectations. I make it my bike to do anything with,
short of fast road rides( more because I'm not strong enough and I'm
too stubborn to leave the carradice bag at home). Over the course of a
half of year after owning my bleriot this bike has turned into some
what a beater in a sense that I don't mind leaving it outside out at
a farmers market locked with an irish strap. My nicks and scratches
have far pass the point of beasuage and the low model campy components
aren't holding up well because of the abused/misuse. But I don't feel
bad for that I'm using the bike for it's purposes despite  being a
covet Rivendell Bike. Just curious of how others treat their
rivendells? Are they really used to their full potential? Or locked
away shameless in the garage because of their face value?

-Manny

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-17 Thread eflayer
From a list member I recently purchased an SS coupled Rambouillet.
The bike was used quite a bit and came to me with numerous paint
chips.  But it still looks damn good in its green and cream paint.  I
took on its first trip of 500 miles a few weeks ago.  Packed in the
case, unpacked it and indeed it came back with some new chips in the
paint.  Off to Walgreens to find the closest nail polish.  I swear the
bike must now have 30 or so dabs of polish to cover the many little
flaws.  Still rides like a dream and looks good from 5 feet away.

On Jul 17, 9:08 am, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
wrote:
 Grant's new post intrigued some thoughts within my weary brain. Found
 on the Rivendell site.

 Now almost every bike abovet $300 has a shock fork and almost no bike
 below a Surly is steel. Fuji has one. Raleigh has eleven. Raleigh's
 slogan in the ancient days, way before mom and dad met, was The All-
 Steel Bicycle, and I think Raleigh now is trying to recapture the
 spirit, maybe.

 It would be so easy to tig-weld a cheap bike that was Affordable Yet
 Fully Wholeheartedly Endorseable, but we're locked in to lugs, and
 it's staying that way. Over the years we've talked a little about
 making a Super Cheap with lugs, but the lower limit isn't all that
 low, because the labor is so much more intensive.

 It makes some sense, though. Everybody needs a beater and too many
 people are afraid to make their Rivbike into the bike they can lock
 outside the movie theater or bookstore for a few hours. I'm thinking
 of a way to do it, and it's not looking likely, but it's not been
 ruled out yet, either, and it's not a front-burner project. I will get
 to it if at all in many moons.

 I for one love my bleriot. The ride and the functionally has far
 surpassed my expectations. I make it my bike to do anything with,
 short of fast road rides( more because I'm not strong enough and I'm
 too stubborn to leave the carradice bag at home). Over the course of a
 half of year after owning my bleriot this bike has turned into some
 what a beater in a sense that I don't mind leaving it outside out at
 a farmers market locked with an irish strap. My nicks and scratches
 have far pass the point of beasuage and the low model campy components
 aren't holding up well because of the abused/misuse. But I don't feel
 bad for that I'm using the bike for it's purposes despite  being a
 covet Rivendell Bike. Just curious of how others treat their
 rivendells? Are they really used to their full potential? Or locked
 away shameless in the garage because of their face value?

 -Manny

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Re: [RBW] Re: found on the interwebs: SRAM Rival 170mm 110bcd Compact double crankset

2010-07-17 Thread cyclotourist
Hi Jeremy, here's a pic of the chainline:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4801716397/



On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 10:17 AM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey David, what are your chainlines with this crankset?

 On Jul 16, 8:10 am, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  Nice set of 110bcd cranks.  I have a
  sethttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2362969780/,
  and really like  recommend them.  Finish is nice although a bit
 delicate.
  Rings are really good though.
  This is in the NLA polished finish.  They're black now.  If you can get
 over
  the outboard bearings, they're really good cranks.
 
  http://www.ediscountbike.com/SRAM-Rival-Compact-Crankset/Cranks-Botto...
 
  No affiliation/connection/kickback/shadiness with retailer.
 
  --
  Cheers,
  David
  Redlands, CA
 
  Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
  wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
  scientist guy

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-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread muckum
Yes, they are worth it - if you like stuff that will out live you that
you can pass on to a special person.
IRD makes great freewheels and parts.



On Jul 16, 2:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
 online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
 her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
 huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
 thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
 get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
 not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

 I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
 longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
 or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
 purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

 Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
 thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
 hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
 intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
 that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
 only bike has a cassette.

 What would you upgrade and why?

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-17 Thread Justin August
I thought Grant's little musings were nice -and reassuring given my
recent Bleriot purchase - but I wonder if he's being obtuse and
purposefully ignoring the Velo-Orange Polyvalent or finds something
seriously wrong with it.

On Jul 17, 12:08 pm, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
wrote:
 Grant's new post intrigued some thoughts within my weary brain. Found
 on the Rivendell site.

 Now almost every bike abovet $300 has a shock fork and almost no bike
 below a Surly is steel. Fuji has one. Raleigh has eleven. Raleigh's
 slogan in the ancient days, way before mom and dad met, was The All-
 Steel Bicycle, and I think Raleigh now is trying to recapture the
 spirit, maybe.

 It would be so easy to tig-weld a cheap bike that was Affordable Yet
 Fully Wholeheartedly Endorseable, but we're locked in to lugs, and
 it's staying that way. Over the years we've talked a little about
 making a Super Cheap with lugs, but the lower limit isn't all that
 low, because the labor is so much more intensive.

 It makes some sense, though. Everybody needs a beater and too many
 people are afraid to make their Rivbike into the bike they can lock
 outside the movie theater or bookstore for a few hours. I'm thinking
 of a way to do it, and it's not looking likely, but it's not been
 ruled out yet, either, and it's not a front-burner project. I will get
 to it if at all in many moons.

 I for one love my bleriot. The ride and the functionally has far
 surpassed my expectations. I make it my bike to do anything with,
 short of fast road rides( more because I'm not strong enough and I'm
 too stubborn to leave the carradice bag at home). Over the course of a
 half of year after owning my bleriot this bike has turned into some
 what a beater in a sense that I don't mind leaving it outside out at
 a farmers market locked with an irish strap. My nicks and scratches
 have far pass the point of beasuage and the low model campy components
 aren't holding up well because of the abused/misuse. But I don't feel
 bad for that I'm using the bike for it's purposes despite  being a
 covet Rivendell Bike. Just curious of how others treat their
 rivendells? Are they really used to their full potential? Or locked
 away shameless in the garage because of their face value?

 -Manny

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[RBW] Re: You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed......

2010-07-17 Thread William
I am not sure how people know the grade of a hill either, other than
just by eyeballing it.

I would just eyeball it if it weren't right in front of my house.  In
fact the hill up to my house is the kind that I have generally avoided
on bike rides.  I've never ridden a bicycle up Moser or Centennial
here in the East Bay hills.

Since it is right here, what I do is take out my 4 foot level and a
ruler.  Just measure how high you have to elevate one end to make it
level.  rise over run.

On Jul 16, 5:56 pm, David T. davidtren...@yahoo.ca wrote:
 I just looked up something that I read in Frank Berto’s book:

 “With a cyclist’s entire weight on the pedal, the maximum rideable
 gear in inches is seven times the slope denominator. Thus, a 1-in-10
 incline requires a 70-inch gear.”

 (In other words, on a 10 % slope, with all your weight on the pedal,
 and a 70-inch gear you would just be stationary. But in reality, if
 you pulled up on the handlebars, you could make a little progress. )

 If I work things out correctly, a 15 % grade would be 1-in-6.67. Using
 the formula above, this would give a maximum usable gear of 7 X 6.67 =
 46.7 gear inches.

 ( That’s the maximum usable gear, not that it would be a fun ride. )

 I am not sure how people know the grade of a hill either, other than
 just by eyeballing it.

 But I can say, in my experience, riding a single-speed bike will
 gradually make you a better climber, so that after maybe six months or
 a year, you can go up  hills quicker and easier than you would have
 done previously in a lower gear.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-17 Thread Johnny Alien
My guess is that with tires, stem, handlebars, tires, etc, etc that
the VO Poly gets up to $1000 pretty easy which is the cost of the
Surly he mentions.

On Jul 17, 1:12 pm, Justin August justinaug...@gmail.com wrote:
 I thought Grant's little musings were nice -and reassuring given my
 recent Bleriot purchase - but I wonder if he's being obtuse and
 purposefully ignoring the Velo-Orange Polyvalent or finds something
 seriously wrong with it.

 On Jul 17, 12:08 pm, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
 wrote:



  Grant's new post intrigued some thoughts within my weary brain. Found
  on the Rivendell site.

  Now almost every bike abovet $300 has a shock fork and almost no bike
  below a Surly is steel. Fuji has one. Raleigh has eleven. Raleigh's
  slogan in the ancient days, way before mom and dad met, was The All-
  Steel Bicycle, and I think Raleigh now is trying to recapture the
  spirit, maybe.

  It would be so easy to tig-weld a cheap bike that was Affordable Yet
  Fully Wholeheartedly Endorseable, but we're locked in to lugs, and
  it's staying that way. Over the years we've talked a little about
  making a Super Cheap with lugs, but the lower limit isn't all that
  low, because the labor is so much more intensive.

  It makes some sense, though. Everybody needs a beater and too many
  people are afraid to make their Rivbike into the bike they can lock
  outside the movie theater or bookstore for a few hours. I'm thinking
  of a way to do it, and it's not looking likely, but it's not been
  ruled out yet, either, and it's not a front-burner project. I will get
  to it if at all in many moons.

  I for one love my bleriot. The ride and the functionally has far
  surpassed my expectations. I make it my bike to do anything with,
  short of fast road rides( more because I'm not strong enough and I'm
  too stubborn to leave the carradice bag at home). Over the course of a
  half of year after owning my bleriot this bike has turned into some
  what a beater in a sense that I don't mind leaving it outside out at
  a farmers market locked with an irish strap. My nicks and scratches
  have far pass the point of beasuage and the low model campy components
  aren't holding up well because of the abused/misuse. But I don't feel
  bad for that I'm using the bike for it's purposes despite  being a
  covet Rivendell Bike. Just curious of how others treat their
  rivendells? Are they really used to their full potential? Or locked
  away shameless in the garage because of their face value?

  -Manny

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[RBW] Dura-Ace vs Ultegra front bar-end shifter

2010-07-17 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Hi, all.

Does anyone know what, if anything, is the difference between the 
front/left/friction-only shifters of the Dura Ace (9spd, SL-BS77, I believe) 
and the Ultegra (8spd, SL-BS64, I believe) sets that RBW sells?

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread andy
Yes, They are worth it.  I have ridden thousands of problem free miles
on phil hubs,  I got my first set in the mid 1970s and they are still
running.

On Jul 16, 5:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
 online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
 her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
 huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
 thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
 get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
 not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

 I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
 longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
 or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
 purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

 Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
 thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
 hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
 intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
 that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
 only bike has a cassette.

 What would you upgrade and why?

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread Ginz

If you are fine with 7 speed and, especially if you are using the
Silver bar end shifters, the Phils are fantastic. 7 speed index
shifters and 8 speed freewheels are almost non existent. So, that's
why I raise that issue.

7speed freewheels are still very available and relatively cheap. If
you are worried, just stockpile a few. I bought a used set from the
90s and they are butter smooth.  I would not hesitate to buy a new set
today. You could save some money and get the regular version, rather
than the Rivy version.

If there were a *similarly priced*, classy cassette hub with cartridge
bearings, sure that'd be great. Until that option exists, the Phils
will remain popular.




On Jul 17, 1:12 pm, muckum toddjeffr...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Yes, they are worth it - if you like stuff that will out live you that
 you can pass on to a special person.
 IRD makes great freewheels and parts.

 On Jul 16, 2:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:



  I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
  online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
  her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
  huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
  thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
  get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
  not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

  I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
  longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
  or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
  purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

  Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
  thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
  hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
  intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
  that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
  only bike has a cassette.

  What would you upgrade and why?

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Re: [RBW] Dura-Ace vs Ultegra front bar-end shifter

2010-07-17 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Sat, 2010-07-17 at 13:59 -0500, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote:
 
 Hi, all.
 
 Does anyone know what, if anything, is the difference between the
 front/left/friction-only shifters of the Dura Ace (9spd, SL-BS77, I
 believe) and the Ultegra (8spd, SL-BS64, I believe) sets that RBW
 sells?

The color of the coating on the end of the shifter might be different.
Otherwise, the internal mechanisms are the same.




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Re: [RBW] Re: You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed......

2010-07-17 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Sat, 2010-07-17 at 10:55 -0700, William wrote:
 I am not sure how people know the grade of a hill either, other than
 just by eyeballing it.

Plot it in ridewithgps.com, then run your mouse pointer over the
elevation diagram at the bottom of the screen and observe the numbers
indicated.



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Re: [RBW] Dura-Ace vs Ultegra front bar-end shifter

2010-07-17 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Kinda what I thought. Thanks!

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean


On Jul 17, 2010, at 2:51 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On Sat, 2010-07-17 at 13:59 -0500, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote:
 
 Hi, all.
 
 Does anyone know what, if anything, is the difference between the
 front/left/friction-only shifters of the Dura Ace (9spd, SL-BS77, I
 believe) and the Ultegra (8spd, SL-BS64, I believe) sets that RBW
 sells?
 
 The color of the coating on the end of the shifter might be different.
 Otherwise, the internal mechanisms are the same.
 
 
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-17 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Why impute or wonder about base motives? I am a writer; I know that  one
often writes from the hip and only after hitting send (so to speak)
remembers that there is also this or that that one ought to have
mentioned. I expect Grant didn't spend hours analyzing his statement-to-be.
and there is no reason why he should do so.

Back to the Topic: I bit the bullet several years ago and had my 2003 custom
Curt gofast converted by Dave Porter here in ABQ into a Fixed Commuter, to
be tossed casually onto bus bike racks along with the miserable Huffys,
Magnas and leftover 1990 mtbs (whose riders, miserable, unshaven, hung over,
eyes glazed, muttering feebly, facial muscles twitching, in dirty flannel
shirts and jeans shiny with years of grime, sweating and stinking, dozens of
plastic grocery bags containing their weird, magpie assortments of personal
possessions,  swinging from the handlebars, matted grey hair half-covering
wild, bloodshot eyes --- but I digress) and it survived with a few scuffs
and nicks.

On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 11:12 AM, Justin August justinaug...@gmail.comwrote:

 I thought Grant's little musings were nice -and reassuring given my
 recent Bleriot purchase - but I wonder if he's being obtuse and
 purposefully ignoring the Velo-Orange Polyvalent or finds something
 seriously wrong with it.

 On Jul 17, 12:08 pm, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
 wrote:
  Grant's new post intrigued some thoughts within my weary brain. Found
  on the Rivendell site.
 
  Now almost every bike abovet $300 has a shock fork and almost no bike
  below a Surly is steel. Fuji has one. Raleigh has eleven. Raleigh's
  slogan in the ancient days, way before mom and dad met, was The All-
  Steel Bicycle, and I think Raleigh now is trying to recapture the
  spirit, maybe.
 
  It would be so easy to tig-weld a cheap bike that was Affordable Yet
  Fully Wholeheartedly Endorseable, but we're locked in to lugs, and
  it's staying that way. Over the years we've talked a little about
  making a Super Cheap with lugs, but the lower limit isn't all that
  low, because the labor is so much more intensive.
 
  It makes some sense, though. Everybody needs a beater and too many
  people are afraid to make their Rivbike into the bike they can lock
  outside the movie theater or bookstore for a few hours. I'm thinking
  of a way to do it, and it's not looking likely, but it's not been
  ruled out yet, either, and it's not a front-burner project. I will get
  to it if at all in many moons.
 
  I for one love my bleriot. The ride and the functionally has far
  surpassed my expectations. I make it my bike to do anything with,
  short of fast road rides( more because I'm not strong enough and I'm
  too stubborn to leave the carradice bag at home). Over the course of a
  half of year after owning my bleriot this bike has turned into some
  what a beater in a sense that I don't mind leaving it outside out at
  a farmers market locked with an irish strap. My nicks and scratches
  have far pass the point of beasuage and the low model campy components
  aren't holding up well because of the abused/misuse. But I don't feel
  bad for that I'm using the bike for it's purposes despite  being a
  covet Rivendell Bike. Just curious of how others treat their
  rivendells? Are they really used to their full potential? Or locked
  away shameless in the garage because of their face value?
 
  -Manny

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread Bruce
I have Phil hubs (FW) on the Ram and White Ind hubs on the Saluki. Both have 
been excellent, and cost the same or less than some racer type hubs you'll see. 
The Phils are heavier. FWs are readily available. Try Loosescrews.com for old 
stuff like 7 speed shifters or FWs, or Ebay. Tons of stuff there. Even Nashbar 
sells 6  7 speed FWs for $17.99l that actually work pretty well. That's what I 
currently have on the Ram (13 - 32).



From: Patrick in VT swing4...@gmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sat, July 17, 2010 3:40:48 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

On Jul 17, 3:40 pm, andy arula...@tx.rr.com wrote:
 Yes, They are worth it.  I have ridden thousands of problem free miles
 on phil hubs


  

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Re: [RBW] S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-17 Thread Anne Paulson
On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 7:27 AM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 So tent or no tent for an S24O?

I just got back from a S25O  fifteen minutes ago. I was very glad of
my tent-- mosquitos AND flies AND some kind of swarming beetle made me
happy to be able to retreat at the end of the day. The next morning,
there the mosquitos were again.

I tested out my new alcohol stove. I'm happy to report that my
experiment with pancakes spread with Nutella was a huge success, and
that recipe will now be included in my touring repertoire.

-- 
-- Anne Paulson

My hovercraft is full of eels

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Re: [RBW] S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-17 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Sat, 2010-07-17 at 14:00 -0700, Anne Paulson wrote:
 
 I tested out my new alcohol stove. I'm happy to report that my
 experiment with pancakes spread with Nutella was a huge success, and
 that recipe will now be included in my touring repertoire.

Why alcohol rather than any of the alternatives?



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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread Ginz
i think that there is one additional consideration:

If you ever want indexed shifting, better get a cassette hub. That is
not to say you SHOULD ever want index shifting on that bike or that
you will ever NEED it.  You won't find an 8 speed freewheel, nor will
you find 7 speed indexed bar end shifters, at least not easily.

If you are fine with friction, I say go for the Phils and get a 7
speed freewheel.

Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread Tim McNamara


On Jul 16, 2010, at 4:02 PM, Powderpiggy wrote:


Are the Phil Wood hubs really worth the money?


I have one bike (tandem) with a 1984 Phil rear hub.  It has never  
needed servicing.  I have another bike (Rivendell) with 14 year old  
Phil hubs; they too have never needed servicing.  Ditto the Phil rear  
hub on my wife's bike which is about 12 years old.  If decades of  
hassle-free service are your thing, Phil hubs are a great thing.


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[RBW] Re: You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed......

2010-07-17 Thread Justin August
When I lived at the corner of Fillmore and Oak in San Francisco there
was no way to avoid an insane hill - all four sides were bananas. The
Haight Wiggle helped some but there was always some uncomfortable
grunting at the end of my commute home.

On Jul 17, 1:55 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am not sure how people know the grade of a hill either, other than
 just by eyeballing it.

 I would just eyeball it if it weren't right in front of my house.  In
 fact the hill up to my house is the kind that I have generally avoided
 on bike rides.  I've never ridden a bicycle up Moser or Centennial
 here in the East Bay hills.

 Since it is right here, what I do is take out my 4 foot level and a
 ruler.  Just measure how high you have to elevate one end to make it
 level.  rise over run.

 On Jul 16, 5:56 pm, David T. davidtren...@yahoo.ca wrote:



  I just looked up something that I read in Frank Berto’s book:

  “With a cyclist’s entire weight on the pedal, the maximum rideable
  gear in inches is seven times the slope denominator. Thus, a 1-in-10
  incline requires a 70-inch gear.”

  (In other words, on a 10 % slope, with all your weight on the pedal,
  and a 70-inch gear you would just be stationary. But in reality, if
  you pulled up on the handlebars, you could make a little progress. )

  If I work things out correctly, a 15 % grade would be 1-in-6.67. Using
  the formula above, this would give a maximum usable gear of 7 X 6.67 =
  46.7 gear inches.

  ( That’s the maximum usable gear, not that it would be a fun ride. )

  I am not sure how people know the grade of a hill either, other than
  just by eyeballing it.

  But I can say, in my experience, riding a single-speed bike will
  gradually make you a better climber, so that after maybe six months or
  a year, you can go up  hills quicker and easier than you would have
  done previously in a lower gear.

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Re: [RBW] S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-17 Thread Anne Paulson
Good question. I've always used a white gas stove when I toured, but
it's difficult to buy white gas in touring amounts. Moreover, the gas
stoves I've had have either been noisy (MSR Dragonfly) or unable to
maintain a low enough heat to cook things like rice and pancakes
(every other gas stove I've had).

I don't like cartridge stoves because I don't like the idea of
disposable cartridges.

The Esbit stove is cute, but again it's hard to resupply the fuel. And
the Esbit doesn't put out a lot of heat.

So far, the Trangia alcohol stove is working out. It got hot enough to
cook noodles last night and quickly boil water for coffee this
morning, but I was able to moderate the heat for pancakes. And it's
blessedly silent. I'm not sure I'm using exactly the right fuel,
though. The can is labelled  Denatured Alcohol/Marine Stove Fuel, but
I thought alcohol wasn't supposed to soot up pots, and this stuff is
sooting them up in a big way.

On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 2:13 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:


 Why alcohol rather than any of the alternatives?

-- 
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My hovercraft is full of eels

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread Patrick in VT


On Jul 17, 4:49 pm, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I have Phil hubs (FW) on the Ram and White Ind hubs on the Saluki.

how long have you had your WIs?  I blew through the bearings on an H2
hub in a year - lots of wet miles though.  replaced original bearings
with Phils.

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[RBW] Re: healdsburg century, this weekend

2010-07-17 Thread dpco
todd,
sory i missed you. i spotted two rivs at the first stop in
geyserville: an orange hilsen( looked like 650 wheels) and a light
blue saluki. both beautiful bikes. the weather was stunning.
don c.

On Jul 16, 6:53 pm, Todd Olsen todd_ol...@comcast.net wrote:
 i will be there on a blue hilsen.  wearing a kaiser jersey with
 blueberries and a bunch of other people from kaiser.  i will look for
 you.  todd olsen

 On Jul 16, 8:26 am, BykMor byk...@gmail.com wrote:



  I wish. That really is a beautiful ride. I organized a little Wine
  Powered Tour with some friends last summer and we rode that route one
  of the days. Idyllic.

  Have a great ride!

  bykmor

  On Jul 15, 10:07 pm, dpco dcompton1...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

   are any of you riv-owners doing the healdsburg century this weekend? i
   will be on my mary's blue rodeo. hope to see a few rivs.
   don c.- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread Powderpiggy
Thanks for all the replies.The PW 'Rivy' hubs probably would not
break the bank while the PW cassette hubs would.  But I was a little
unsure about the freewheel but it sounds like maybe that should not be
so much of a concern.

Anything else you would recommend upgrading??

On Jul 17, 8:30 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 I love mine, five or 6 speeds in the rear is all I seem to need.  I
 think with the Foy you can get a dishless 7 speed wheel build that
 will be very strong and last a very long time as others have stated.
 If you are heavy or plan to load the rear the benifits of added
 strength and even spoke length are enough to sway the decision for
 me.  Yes there are other makers of nice hubs, but the Phil freewheels
 hit a sweet spot for me.

 Plus they look really cool

 Rob

 On Jul 16, 2:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:



  I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
  online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
  her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
  huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
  thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
  get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
  not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

  I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
  longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
  or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
  purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

  Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
  thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
  hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
  intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
  that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
  only bike has a cassette.

  What would you upgrade and why?

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread Powderpiggy
It true...I do need racks and bagsfenders...etc.

On Jul 17, 9:06 am, jamison brosseau jamison.bross...@gmail.com
wrote:
 i would get a non budget shimano wheelset.  those hubs last a long
 time, and with the money you save, you can afford to outfit your  bike
 with all the racks and bags you will need.
 jamison

 On Jul 17, 11:30 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:



  I love mine, five or 6 speeds in the rear is all I seem to need.  I
  think with the Foy you can get a dishless 7 speed wheel build that
  will be very strong and last a very long time as others have stated.
  If you are heavy or plan to load the rear the benifits of added
  strength and even spoke length are enough to sway the decision for
  me.  Yes there are other makers of nice hubs, but the Phil freewheels
  hit a sweet spot for me.

  Plus they look really cool

  Rob

  On Jul 16, 2:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:

   I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
   online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
   her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
   huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
   thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
   get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
   not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

   I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
   longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
   or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
   purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

   Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
   thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
   hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
   intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
   that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
   only bike has a cassette.

   What would you upgrade and why?

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread hobie
I have always considered Phil Hubs but never took the plunge.My first
Riv was a Saluki w. 650b budget wheelset.I have since took the plunge
on Phil wheels and B.B..One wheelset is a cassette for my touring
Saluki,pricey though.The other is a Phil rear freewheel not to
pricey.They are both excellent. I would go for the freewheel,it
doesn't cost a fortune and your getting Phil quality that just rools
and rolls and rolls.If your concerned w. the avalability of freewheels
in the future buy 2 IRD's.Store one for the future.If you get the Phil
you have piece of mind that you have the best.If you get the budget
set you'll always be thinking how you should have gotten the Phil.They
will last you a lifetime.

On Jul 16, 5:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
 online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
 her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
 huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
 thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
 get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
 not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

 I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
 longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
 or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
 purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

 Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
 thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
 hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
 intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
 that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
 only bike has a cassette.

 What would you upgrade and why?

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-17 Thread mr.trout
i have a hillborne that is my everyday bike. i have it pitlocked and
the vulnerable bolts are stuffed with foil to keep it from being
stripped. the paint chips pretty easily on this frame, i have a few
city flag stickers covering the big ones. rain or shine, snow slop,
locked up outside of bars, whatever. i don't worry about it too much,
it's framesaved and waxed. i spend a lot of time on my daily rider and
want something good and solid, but nothing i would really worry about.
the hillborne is pretty perfect for that.

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[RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-17 Thread velomann
I made myself one of these a couple of years ago. Along with the Ray-
way quilt, it's how i always camp now. I prefer to sleep outside a
tent, but the tarp is super-light and compact, and if rain's a
possibility, I pitch it. I also made the netting insert, but have
never used it. have yet to camp in conditions where the bugs are
terrible in the middle of the night, and a couple bites doesn't really
bother me much; worth the price to sleep under the stars, IMHO.

You can also buy something similar pretty cheap, like Kent Peterson
describes here:
http://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2009/05/closer-to-fine.html

Keep it simple and light.


On Jul 17, 7:27 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 So tent or no tent for an S24O? This is actually more of a +24O where
 I'm gonna do approx 60 miles the first day and maybe 100+ the second
 day, taking in SW portions of the Mt Hood National Forest. I'm
 tentatively planning on camping by a lake so I'm thinking there's
 gonna be mosquitos so I'm thinking I might want my tent... well, and
 it is OR, so rain is always a possibility... I like the idea of nixing
 the tent as I could just carry everything in my Carradice Nelson LF
 and a medium Wald basket up front. Just kind of curious what people
 think. Obviously if there's any chance of rain in the forecast I'll
 take the tent.

 Tentative plan is to do this ride over two days as opposed to one day
 which totally wrecked me last year.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157621778650380/

 Riv content: I'm gonna ride my Hilsen.

 --mike

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[RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-17 Thread velomann
Whoops - forgot the link to the Ray-Way tarp tent:
http://www.rayjardine.com/ray-way/Tarp-Kit/index.htm


On Jul 17, 4:03 pm, velomann velom...@gmail.com wrote:
 I made myself one of these a couple of years ago. Along with the Ray-
 way quilt, it's how i always camp now. I prefer to sleep outside a
 tent, but the tarp is super-light and compact, and if rain's a
 possibility, I pitch it. I also made the netting insert, but have
 never used it. have yet to camp in conditions where the bugs are
 terrible in the middle of the night, and a couple bites doesn't really
 bother me much; worth the price to sleep under the stars, IMHO.

 You can also buy something similar pretty cheap, like Kent Peterson
 describes here:http://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2009/05/closer-to-fine.html

 Keep it simple and light.

 On Jul 17, 7:27 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:



  So tent or no tent for an S24O? This is actually more of a +24O where
  I'm gonna do approx 60 miles the first day and maybe 100+ the second
  day, taking in SW portions of the Mt Hood National Forest. I'm
  tentatively planning on camping by a lake so I'm thinking there's
  gonna be mosquitos so I'm thinking I might want my tent... well, and
  it is OR, so rain is always a possibility... I like the idea of nixing
  the tent as I could just carry everything in my Carradice Nelson LF
  and a medium Wald basket up front. Just kind of curious what people
  think. Obviously if there's any chance of rain in the forecast I'll
  take the tent.

  Tentative plan is to do this ride over two days as opposed to one day
  which totally wrecked me last year.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157621778650380/

  Riv content: I'm gonna ride my Hilsen.

  --mike

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread EricP
My Sam Hillborne has a Phil f/w rear hub.  It's very nice.  Very
little dish and strong.  Since building the wheel earlier this year,
have yet to touch it with a spoke wrench.

Another bike has Shimano XT hubs and I repacked the rear hub bearings
after about 1,000 miles.

That said - the repack was easy with the right tools and, again with
the right tools, is quite easy to take a cassette off.  Not
necessarily the case with a freewheel.

Purchased the Phil hub because I really wanted a Phil hub.  Had lusted
after them since the early 1980's.  Finally decided to take the
plunge.  Plus my LBS gave me a price I could not refuse.  (Thanks
again to Jim at Hiawatha for that and for teaching me how to build a
wheel.)

If you really want a Phil, go for it.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Jul 17, 4:05 pm, hobie moho1...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I have always considered Phil Hubs but never took the plunge.My first
 Riv was a Saluki w. 650b budget wheelset.I have since took the plunge
 on Phil wheels and B.B..One wheelset is a cassette for my touring
 Saluki,pricey though.The other is a Phil rear freewheel not to
 pricey.They are both excellent. I would go for the freewheel,it
 doesn't cost a fortune and your getting Phil quality that just rools
 and rolls and rolls.If your concerned w. the avalability of freewheels
 in the future buy 2 IRD's.Store one for the future.If you get the Phil
 you have piece of mind that you have the best.If you get the budget
 set you'll always be thinking how you should have gotten the Phil.They
 will last you a lifetime.

 On Jul 16, 5:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:



  I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
  online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
  her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
  huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
  thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
  get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
  not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

  I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
  longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
  or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
  purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

  Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
  thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
  hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
  intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
  that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
  only bike has a cassette.

  What would you upgrade and why?- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-17 Thread EricP
Well, my Rivendell is not a beater.  Yes, I ride it around and even
commute on it when I feel like.  However, it's not the bike I take out
on the icy, salty roads of winter.  Others do.  In that case, the bike
of choice (for this coming winter) will be a Surly.

Earlier this week, received a snide remark from a rider on a nice new
steel Fuji that my Hillborne was a decent commuting bike.  Yup.
Guess it is that, too.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Jul 17, 11:26 am, mr.trout ianet...@yahoo.com wrote:
 i have a hillborne that is my everyday bike. i have it pitlocked and
 the vulnerable bolts are stuffed with foil to keep it from being
 stripped. the paint chips pretty easily on this frame, i have a few
 city flag stickers covering the big ones. rain or shine, snow slop,
 locked up outside of bars, whatever. i don't worry about it too much,
 it's framesaved and waxed. i spend a lot of time on my daily rider and
 want something good and solid, but nothing i would really worry about.
 the hillborne is pretty perfect for that.

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[RBW] Comparing Mark's bar with the Noodle.

2010-07-17 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I have a 46 cm Noodle on the Sam Hill and find the reach a bit much. The
Mark's is 113 mm shorter per the Riv description, but then, too, the Noodle
bends back. Can anyone tell me the overall difference in reach between
Mark's and Noodle?

I did correct much of the problem of too far away with the Noodle by finding
that I had slammed my Turbo some 4 1/2 behind the bb, instead of my usual 3
1/2, so putting the saddle correctly in place made the reach considerable
more comfortable. But I do find that the slope of the ramps on the 185
(which Mark copied) is more comfortable for the hoods when the bars are a
bit lower relative to the saddle.

Thanks, PAM

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-17 Thread EricP
Am a tent person.  But always have a tendency to overpack.  Even for
S24O.  Plus, I like the privacy a tent provides.  Especially at a
campground.

Another idea could be a bivy sack.  Small enough to fit in a
saddlebag, but gives some protection from the elements and bugs.

Have discovered through festivals that while mosquitos quiet down a
bit after dark, they never seem to disappear.  Sometimes makes
jamming, um, interesting.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Jul 17, 6:06 pm, velomann velom...@gmail.com wrote:
 Whoops - forgot the link to the Ray-Way tarp 
 tent:http://www.rayjardine.com/ray-way/Tarp-Kit/index.htm

 On Jul 17, 4:03 pm, velomann velom...@gmail.com wrote:



  I made myself one of these a couple of years ago. Along with the Ray-
  way quilt, it's how i always camp now. I prefer to sleep outside a
  tent, but the tarp is super-light and compact, and if rain's a
  possibility, I pitch it. I also made the netting insert, but have
  never used it. have yet to camp in conditions where the bugs are
  terrible in the middle of the night, and a couple bites doesn't really
  bother me much; worth the price to sleep under the stars, IMHO.

  You can also buy something similar pretty cheap, like Kent Peterson
  describes here:http://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2009/05/closer-to-fine.html

  Keep it simple and light.

  On Jul 17, 7:27 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

   So tent or no tent for an S24O? This is actually more of a +24O where
   I'm gonna do approx 60 miles the first day and maybe 100+ the second
   day, taking in SW portions of the Mt Hood National Forest. I'm
   tentatively planning on camping by a lake so I'm thinking there's
   gonna be mosquitos so I'm thinking I might want my tent... well, and
   it is OR, so rain is always a possibility... I like the idea of nixing
   the tent as I could just carry everything in my Carradice Nelson LF
   and a medium Wald basket up front. Just kind of curious what people
   think. Obviously if there's any chance of rain in the forecast I'll
   take the tent.

   Tentative plan is to do this ride over two days as opposed to one day
   which totally wrecked me last year.

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157621778650380/

   Riv content: I'm gonna ride my Hilsen.

   --mike- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-17 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Despite my published reservations about the SH, I'd unhesitatingly choose it
as a beater commuter -- I prefer to call such bikes no worries, mate
bikes -- since despite not being the equal of any of my 3 custom Rivs it is
still a very nice bike compared to most others I've owned.

(Tho' I bet my 1989 Sante equipped Falcon -- 531C, steep 'n' short in front
(TCO!!!) and long, long in back -- would have made an excellent sporty
commuter for, say, Tubus Fly and Carradice Kendals; one of those I am sorry
I sold. Wisdom in hindsight.)

On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 6:47 PM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:

 Well, my Rivendell is not a beater.  Yes, I ride it around and even
 commute on it when I feel like.  However, it's not the bike I take out
 on the icy, salty roads of winter.  Others do.  In that case, the bike
 of choice (for this coming winter) will be a Surly.

 Earlier this week, received a snide remark from a rider on a nice new
 steel Fuji that my Hillborne was a decent commuting bike.  Yup.
 Guess it is that, too.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Jul 17, 11:26 am, mr.trout ianet...@yahoo.com wrote:
  i have a hillborne that is my everyday bike. i have it pitlocked and
  the vulnerable bolts are stuffed with foil to keep it from being
  stripped. the paint chips pretty easily on this frame, i have a few
  city flag stickers covering the big ones. rain or shine, snow slop,
  locked up outside of bars, whatever. i don't worry about it too much,
  it's framesaved and waxed. i spend a lot of time on my daily rider and
  want something good and solid, but nothing i would really worry about.
  the hillborne is pretty perfect for that.

 --
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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-17 Thread cyclotourist
I'd love to see another collaboration between Rivendell and either QBP
(Surly/Salsa) or Merry Sales (Soma).  Similar to the Bleriot arrangement
they had.  Let Grant design and spec it, let them sell it.  TIG welded 
powder coated would be awesome for this application.  Let the distributor
worry about the on-line low-balling.  Just have that Rivendell touch in the
design and components.  Something similar to the idea of the LHT or
Casserole.

The non Trek or Specialized branded shops could sell it pretty well I'm
guess (knowing nothing of the bike biz).  On-line sites (Air Bomb, Jenson,
etc) could sell bunches of them.  And I think a lot of us would buy one just
have it as a back-up/borrower bike.  Or a snow  slush bike.  Would be
great!


On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 9:08 AM, manueljohnacosta 
manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Grant's new post intrigued some thoughts within my weary brain. Found
 on the Rivendell site.

 Now almost every bike abovet $300 has a shock fork and almost no bike
 below a Surly is steel. Fuji has one. Raleigh has eleven. Raleigh's
 slogan in the ancient days, way before mom and dad met, was The All-
 Steel Bicycle, and I think Raleigh now is trying to recapture the
 spirit, maybe.

 It would be so easy to tig-weld a cheap bike that was Affordable Yet
 Fully Wholeheartedly Endorseable, but we're locked in to lugs, and
 it's staying that way. Over the years we've talked a little about
 making a Super Cheap with lugs, but the lower limit isn't all that
 low, because the labor is so much more intensive.

 It makes some sense, though. Everybody needs a beater and too many
 people are afraid to make their Rivbike into the bike they can lock
 outside the movie theater or bookstore for a few hours. I'm thinking
 of a way to do it, and it's not looking likely, but it's not been
 ruled out yet, either, and it's not a front-burner project. I will get
 to it if at all in many moons.

 I for one love my bleriot. The ride and the functionally has far
 surpassed my expectations. I make it my bike to do anything with,
 short of fast road rides( more because I'm not strong enough and I'm
 too stubborn to leave the carradice bag at home). Over the course of a
 half of year after owning my bleriot this bike has turned into some
 what a beater in a sense that I don't mind leaving it outside out at
 a farmers market locked with an irish strap. My nicks and scratches
 have far pass the point of beasuage and the low model campy components
 aren't holding up well because of the abused/misuse. But I don't feel
 bad for that I'm using the bike for it's purposes despite  being a
 covet Rivendell Bike. Just curious of how others treat their
 rivendells? Are they really used to their full potential? Or locked
 away shameless in the garage because of their face value?

 -Manny

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Re: [RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread cyclotourist
Re-packing hubs is one of my favorite bike maintenance things to do.  Just a
good feeling of satisfaction after completing it.

On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 5:40 PM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:

 My Sam Hillborne has a Phil f/w rear hub.  It's very nice.  Very
 little dish and strong.  Since building the wheel earlier this year,
 have yet to touch it with a spoke wrench.

 Another bike has Shimano XT hubs and I repacked the rear hub bearings
 after about 1,000 miles.

 That said - the repack was easy with the right tools and, again with
 the right tools, is quite easy to take a cassette off.  Not
 necessarily the case with a freewheel.

 Purchased the Phil hub because I really wanted a Phil hub.  Had lusted
 after them since the early 1980's.  Finally decided to take the
 plunge.  Plus my LBS gave me a price I could not refuse.  (Thanks
 again to Jim at Hiawatha for that and for teaching me how to build a
 wheel.)

 If you really want a Phil, go for it.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Jul 17, 4:05 pm, hobie moho1...@yahoo.com wrote:
  I have always considered Phil Hubs but never took the plunge.My first
  Riv was a Saluki w. 650b budget wheelset.I have since took the plunge
  on Phil wheels and B.B..One wheelset is a cassette for my touring
  Saluki,pricey though.The other is a Phil rear freewheel not to
  pricey.They are both excellent. I would go for the freewheel,it
  doesn't cost a fortune and your getting Phil quality that just rools
  and rolls and rolls.If your concerned w. the avalability of freewheels
  in the future buy 2 IRD's.Store one for the future.If you get the Phil
  you have piece of mind that you have the best.If you get the budget
  set you'll always be thinking how you should have gotten the Phil.They
  will last you a lifetime.
 
  On Jul 16, 5:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 
 
 
   I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
   online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
   her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
   huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
   thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
   get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
   not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.
 
   I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
   longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
   or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
   purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).
 
   Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
   thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
   hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
   intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
   that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
   only bike has a cassette.
 
   What would you upgrade and why?- Hide quoted text -
 
  - Show quoted text -

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wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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[RBW] Thoughts on assorted recent threads

2010-07-17 Thread Bruce
4 of us went 80 miles today (Montgomery to Tuskeegee and then around the 
countryside on our way back) and covered roads which ranged from new asphalt to 
dirt. In between, we had rough roads that would knock your dental fillings out. 
 Morning temps were mid 70s with near 100% humidity and by afternoon, the Sun 
was broiling and it was 93F. I rode a '95 Riv Road. My son pointed out to me 
the 
paint dings, and I beat the tar out of it. I also left it unlocked at breakfast 
in Tuskeegee. So it's a great beater bike. :) It was also a big attention 
getter when the kit crowd of Auburn Flyers out for their morning 50 miles came 
up to the same gas Station  in Notasulga on Cervelos, Colnagos, BMC and the 
like.  Is that a RIVENDELL!?!  :)

Other notes:

 Despite the disparagement for it's Sartorial Excellence for Cyclists 
advertising, the Rapha cap I got (used, Ebay, England) this week and wore 
for the first time on a ride today was flat out wonderful at handling sweat, 
maintaining it's shape and looking great when soaking wet.

Wool is great no matter what the climate. Soaking wet (humidity caused) 
microfiber jerseys abrade my nipples raw. No such issue with wool.  It dried 
quickly once the Sun came out as well.

Pascenti Pari Motos handled every surface today with aplomb. Very comfortable 
as 
well. No flats yet either. Surefooted in gravel as well.

A few pictures (no captions yet) at Picasa. One shows a bit of the oogly road 
surface in rural Macon County.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Bruce.Herbitter/20100717#


  

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[RBW] Re: 50cm Rambouillet FS at PedalRev/SF

2010-07-17 Thread Rene
jim,

thanks for the tip. i went up to sanfo this noon and got it. the
components are no cheapo. i just asked that the saddle be swapped to
b17.

i will ride it for a while to see if it needs fenders or not. it looks
bare though without them.

here's a photolink:

http://tinyurl.com/25q24vs

-- rene


On Jul 15, 7:36 am, cyclofiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Hey all -

 Just caught this on the Pedal Revolution blog (was from 7/12). If
 anyone was looking for a 50 cm Rambouillet in blue, they seem to have
 one, all built up with priest bars for around $1500 -

 http://pedalrevolutionblog.wordpress.com/2010/07/12/july-update/

 Not mine, no connection to seller.

 - Jim

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Re: [RBW] Thoughts on assorted recent threads

2010-07-17 Thread cyclotourist
Looked like a nice bike over at Ben's Bargains... do you know if they ship?

On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 6:10 PM, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:

 4 of us went 80 miles today (Montgomery to Tuskeegee and then around the
 countryside on our way back) and covered roads which ranged from new asphalt
 to dirt. In between, we had rough roads that would knock your dental
 fillings out.  Morning temps were mid 70s with near 100% humidity and by
 afternoon, the Sun was broiling and it was 93F. I rode a '95 Riv Road. My
 son pointed out to me the paint dings, and I beat the tar out of it. I also
 left it unlocked at breakfast in Tuskeegee. So it's a great beater bike.
 :) It was also a big attention getter when the kit crowd of Auburn Flyers
 out for their morning 50 miles came up to the same gas Station  in Notasulga
 on Cervelos, Colnagos, BMC and the like.  Is that a RIVENDELL!?!  :)

 Other notes:

  Despite the disparagement for it's Sartorial Excellence for Cyclists
 advertising, the Rapha cap I got (used, Ebay, England) this week and wore
 for the first time on a ride today was flat out wonderful at handling sweat,
 maintaining it's shape and looking great when soaking wet.

 Wool is great no matter what the climate. Soaking wet (humidity caused)
 microfiber jerseys abrade my nipples raw. No such issue with wool.  It dried
 quickly once the Sun came out as well.

 Pascenti Pari Motos handled every surface today with aplomb. Very
 comfortable as well. No flats yet either. Surefooted in gravel as well.

 A few pictures (no captions yet) at Picasa. One shows a bit of the oogly
 road surface in rural Macon County.

 http://picasaweb.google.com/Bruce.Herbitter/20100717#

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Redlands, CA

Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread Ginz
Tell us more about your build.  We'll gladly spend your money.

On Jul 17, 11:44 am, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 Thanks for all the replies.    The PW 'Rivy' hubs probably would not
 break the bank while the PW cassette hubs would.  But I was a little
 unsure about the freewheel but it sounds like maybe that should not be
 so much of a concern.

 Anything else you would recommend upgrading??

 On Jul 17, 8:30 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:



  I love mine, five or 6 speeds in the rear is all I seem to need.  I
  think with the Foy you can get a dishless 7 speed wheel build that
  will be very strong and last a very long time as others have stated.
  If you are heavy or plan to load the rear the benifits of added
  strength and even spoke length are enough to sway the decision for
  me.  Yes there are other makers of nice hubs, but the Phil freewheels
  hit a sweet spot for me.

  Plus they look really cool

  Rob

  On Jul 16, 2:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:

   I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
   online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
   her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
   huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
   thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
   get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
   not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

   I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
   longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
   or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
   purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

   Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
   thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
   hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
   intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
   that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
   only bike has a cassette.

   What would you upgrade and why?

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[RBW] Re: Comparing Mark's bar with the Noodle.

2010-07-17 Thread SISDDWG
I just replaced a Noodle with a Mark's bar on my Rivendell Longlow. I
like the Mark's bar a lot. Because of the relatively shallow drop and
shorter reach I can more easily ride in the drops. I am very pleased
with the change.

On Jul 17, 5:53 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a 46 cm Noodle on the Sam Hill and find the reach a bit much. The
 Mark's is 113 mm shorter per the Riv description, but then, too, the Noodle
 bends back. Can anyone tell me the overall difference in reach between
 Mark's and Noodle?

 I did correct much of the problem of too far away with the Noodle by finding
 that I had slammed my Turbo some 4 1/2 behind the bb, instead of my usual 3
 1/2, so putting the saddle correctly in place made the reach considerable
 more comfortable. But I do find that the slope of the ramps on the 185
 (which Mark copied) is more comfortable for the hoods when the bars are a
 bit lower relative to the saddle.

 Thanks, PAM

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-17 Thread All Rounder 2000
I have bikes with PW (Freewheel), SunTour (FW), and Shimano hubs
(Cassette).
I agree with all I've seen here.
For me, the most practical difference has been the service after the
sale.
On two occasions I've had slight problems with PW gear and a quick
phone call to PW HQ and the bearings or other parts are on their way,
one time for free.
Specifically, the issues were:
*Car camped throughout southern Utah Red Rock, with my bike on the
back of the car. Grit got into the BB bearings and killed it. PW
replaced the BB. (for free!)
*Needed to repurpose a hub for use on a 135 rear spacing 7 speed, to a
132.5 5 speed. On the phone, PW told me what I needed, and sent for a
very small fee.

UPGRADE IDEA for you:
For touring, and general night riding, I can highly recommend the
Schmidt Dynohub for the front wheel. I've ridden this hub at least
50 miles per week for the last 10 years, and it is like new.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-17 Thread charlie
Holy cow they are just bicycles !  I don't think a cheaper bicycle
would be any less likely to be stolen or damaged by use. Lets face it,
you can't take this stuff with you when you die so enjoy it now.
Quality things are nice to own and use and.if you can afford
something expensive then use it (don't wreck it) but do use it. I
wouldn't waste all my hard work on something that just sat in my
garage never to be ridden except on a perfectly paved bike path, on a
sunny day, when the pollen count and bugs are low and the planets are
in perfect alignment. Ghee whizz ! I'm done being dramatic
now  ; )

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