[RBW] Re: Model redundancy: Why not offer only canti/V brakes on all models? Why not offer a 650b on every model?
I don't have any special insight to Rivendell's thinking, but I will guess that cantilever bosses add cost. If you don't need to run extra large tires (42mm seems to be around the limit for Tektro's R559), then why incur the cost? The fork crown already has a cast-in brake hole, and all Rivendell bikes come with a nice multi-function seatstay bridge, so no extra work and material is necessary to support sidepull/centerpull brakes. As for wheels sizes, larger wheels roll better, in the context of the kind of moderate mixed terrain routes that Rivendell bikes are designed for. However, wheel sizes have impact on geometry, in that larger wheels constraint optimal design. For example, with my PBH of 81cm, given a requirement of 700x33C tires, and proper front end geometry, I couldn't avoid toeclip overlap, even on my custom. There is an optimal wheel size for each range of frame sizes, and smaller bikes will require smaller wheels, and larger bikes can benefit from larger wheels (without significant compromises). Shooing everyone into the 650B size is no different than expecting 700C to work well for everyone. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Help me remove my Ergon grip
Like Doug says, penetrating oil. I have a drawer full of various sized slot head screwdrivers, jamming one into an Allen head screw works to turn the screw because the blade spans the widest points of the hex. I use that method prior to actually stripping the Allen head or cutting a slot. Ray -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Help me remove my Ergon grip
WD-40 is a water dispersing agent. Try some form of liquid wrench, penetrating oil or similar product intended to loosen stubborn objects. In my experience, it needs several hours to soak in, sometimes overnight or a couple of applications to work. dougP On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 7:12:41 PM UTC-7, Pondero wrote: > > So I snugged the small hex screw (that holds the grip to the bar) down > nice and tight, then rode (and sweated) for a couple of years. Now I want > to remove my Ergon grips to install some new brake levers. But the screws > don't move. So far I've sprayed the screw with WD40 I had handy. My hex > key twists, and I fear I'm on the edge of stripping the head. What should > be my next step? > > Thanks for any tips... > > Chris Johnson > Sanger, Texas > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Model redundancy: Why not offer only canti/V brakes on all models? Why not offer a 650b on every model?
Lots of folks are intimidated by cantilever brakes. That's just a fact. In any case, until you get beyond 42mm tires, centerpulls work fine--my Dia Compes allow the easy installation and removal of a 700x43 BG Rock and Road with no deflation. Not sure what the clearance is for the biggest Tektro sidepulls, but I know my vintage Dia Compe G sidepulls (57mm reach?) take a 35 with no issues. Not everybody needs/wants to run the massive tires that seem to be so popular at the moment. I personally thing 38-42 works very well for most paved and dirt road conditions. The Legolas as I understand it is one of the lightest, if not the lightest Rivendell frameset, and certainly looks bad-ass with cantis. But that is specifically a bicycle built for racing in muddy conditions. I think the other issue running through this thread--redundancy in models--may have to do with the maturation of the designer's view of bicycles, and what makes a good and useful one. If you believe the best bikes are bikes that can carry more than a power bar and a CO2 cartridge and that have tires with a width greater than a quarter and should have high or swept back bars for premium enjoyment, then, after time, your bike models may start to resemble one another more than they don't. Eventually, they breed until you have a mutt, which as we all know is the healthiest, happiest breed of dog there is. Personally, I still think most of the models are distinct enough to be worthy of continued existence, but perhaps with most everything moving to MIT, that will eventually change. I think GP has built up a varied and eclectic and distinctive and fun and useful ouevre ever since 1994. And who knows what's down the road? On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 5:42:18 PM UTC-4, Drw wrote: > > The brake thing is something that I think people do care about. I > personally would like canti mounts on every frame, but I know people who > feel the exact opposite. > > I would love to see it go in the direction of race bike, real world road > bike, country bike, tour/off road, and plus mtn bike. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Model redundancy: Why not offer only canti/V brakes on all models? Why not offer a 650b on every model?
[image: Image result for legolas bicycle] On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 4:51:28 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote: > > For me on a "road bike" build sans a stack of racks and bags, the choice > would be aesthetics: I think a lightish steel road bike looks "right" with > sidepulls. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Help me remove my Ergon grip
Ergon biocork? I think that's are area that would be ok to introduce a bit of heat - I'd go for that before adding more torque to the bolt head - maybe lighter/butane lighter grade heat, not torch heat. If'n that fails, I'd drip a bit more oil in there and go with short turning motions with the hex key to simulate a hammer drill type of effect. If'n that fails I'd go full torque and prepare for the stripping of the bolt head. When that happens I'd whip out my dremel and cut a slot in the head of the bolt and start attacking it with a screwdriver. When that fails I'd start cutting away more of the bolt head with my dremel until it's substantially reduced or removed enough so as to be able to remove the grip because it's no longer holding tension. I'd then set about backing the remainder of the screw out of the grip if I were so inclined to not explain how I really felt about it with a sledgehammer. I might then contact Ergon about the extent of their warranty :) -Jeff Silver Spring, MD On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 10:12 PM, Pondero wrote: > So I snugged the small hex screw (that holds the grip to the bar) down > nice and tight, then rode (and sweated) for a couple of years. Now I want > to remove my Ergon grips to install some new brake levers. But the screws > don't move. So far I've sprayed the screw with WD40 I had handy. My hex > key twists, and I fear I'm on the edge of stripping the head. What should > be my next step? > > Thanks for any tips... > > Chris Johnson > Sanger, Texas > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Help me remove my Ergon grip
I stripped a hex key style crank arm dust cap recently. I think I used a paperclip or something slim to wedge in along with the wrench. It worked. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Jobst on short chainstays
I suppose at some point if you made them really really *really* long, you'd be in danger of the front of the bike running into the back of the bike. But this is probably only a theoretical problem. Just remember what the good Duchess of Windsor said, "You can never have too many Rivs, and chainstays can never be too long." (I may be paraphrasing somewhat.) So long, Mark "the long and the short of it" Roland On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 7:46:23 PM UTC-4, Hugh Flynn wrote: > > I’m still interested in the answers to “how long is too long?” and “what > are the drawbacks to long, as long as it’s not too long?” > > My recent Appaloosa experience only confirms (for me at least) that Riv > long doesn’t seem to be too long. > > Hugh “long in the tooth” Flynn > Newburyport, MA > > > On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 7:40 PM Metin Uz > > wrote: > >> One thing to note is that Jobst rode a very large frame, 64cm or maybe >> taller. So shorter chainstays had him sitting over the rear wheel. We all >> experience our own reality, and generalize from there. I remember Brian >> Baylis claiming that Colnago's rode significantly better than other Italian >> frames in 50cm or smaller sizes. Perhaps most designs were (are) based on >> 56cm, than extrapolated. >> >> --Metin >> >> >> On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 8:53:46 AM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote: >>> >>> Further comments by Jobst on chainstay length can be found here: >>> >>> http://yarchive.net/bike/frame_dimensions.html >>> http://yarchive.net/bike/short_chainstays.html >>> >>> A couple of good quotes: >>> >>> For road bikes in the range that is available, the longer the chainstays the better the bike handles in all but 10mph turns. >>> and: >>> >>> Chainstay length is primarily a comfort effect of sitting directly over the rear wheel or not. Secondarily, a short wheelbase makes weight transfer on braking less advantageous and least of all steering motions more disruptive to straight line riding. >>> >>> >>> In the frame dimensions thread Jobst also says that when he was speccing >>> his custom frames, he would basically have the builders (Tom Ritchey and >>> Peter Johnson) leave the chainstays as long as possible, which I would >>> guess put them somewhere around 45cm or more, so long for a traditional >>> road or touring bike but not into the territory that Grant has pioneered, >>> mainly because I don't think chainstays that long were available from tube >>> manufacturers. Pictures of his Peter Johnson show that there was clearly >>> more than adequate space behind the seat tube for a frame pump: >>> >>> http://bikecult.com/works/archive/04bicycles/pjohnsonJB04.html >>> >>> I wonder what Jobst would have made of Grant's recent designs. >>> >>> I ride my long chainstay bike (Clem) mainly as a MTB and I would say all >>> of this holds true for off-road riding as well, where you are far more >>> likely to encounter grades of 10% or more, and the bikes ability to keep >>> the front wheel down while going up without significant body english feels >>> like a real boon. On the way down, it feels stable and like it has a huge >>> "sweet spot" where I am well balanced between the wheels. >>> >>> On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 7:09:16 AM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote: I was daydreaming about a bike project and looking for information about some old IGHs this memorial day morning, and stumbled on a google group thread from 1991 in which Jobst Brandt participated. I thought this off-topic comment about chainstay length was interesting. Echoes everything Rivendell (or vice versa, given the chronology), but it is the first time I've heard the 'drafting' component of the racer-driven designs explained. jobst_b...@hp1900.desk.hp.com K C- writes: > Try as I might, I just cannot for the life of me figure out how short > chainstays are going to help climbing. Someone enlighten me before I go > nuts with this one!! That's simple. Short chainstays help you do wheelies if the hill gets steep. It's this kind of thinking that brought us bike with so little tire clearance that a one inch cross section damn near scrapes the fork crown and requires letting the air out of the rear tire for removal. I think someone noticed that the fastest road bikes are the ones ridden by TTT riders. These bikes are the shortest road bikes and therefore, short bikes are fast. The trouble is, they are short to allow four riders to draft as close together as possible, not because a short bike is inherently fast. This concept seems to have escaped the advocates of short bikes. They use terms like " they're rsponsive" amd "accelerate quickly". What can you say to such a claim? It is so patently unfounded that a response is difficult to construct without being argumetative
[RBW] Help me remove my Ergon grip
Thanks, Patrick! That is exactly the direction I was headed. But I paused...just in case someone had any more "proper tools" ideas I had missed. Chris Johnson Sanger, Texas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Help me remove my Ergon grip
The inanimate are a peculiar bunch and sometimes need, especially under conditions such as actual use, motivations outside standard practices. When proper tools fail, I fall back to duct tape and my Buck knife. If those fail, it’s a rock as a hammer, the Buck knife or screwdriver as a chisel, followed by the purchase of new part(s). This system is fool proof, obviously, and has never failed. Grin. With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Help me remove my Ergon grip
So I snugged the small hex screw (that holds the grip to the bar) down nice and tight, then rode (and sweated) for a couple of years. Now I want to remove my Ergon grips to install some new brake levers. But the screws don't move. So far I've sprayed the screw with WD40 I had handy. My hex key twists, and I fear I'm on the edge of stripping the head. What should be my next step? Thanks for any tips... Chris Johnson Sanger, Texas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Green Guru Backpack 24L
Bag is sold. Thanks Bob, enjoy! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Made in Taiwan AHH?
Any idea when these will be available? I don’t need one, but I NEED one. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] New geometry charts available
Interesting; just realized my canti-Sam has longer (slightly) chainstays than my Long Haul Trucker... rod -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Jobst on short chainstays
> Here is a person who extended the chainstays 25cm. of a donor mtb into a > long tail cargo bike . Pretty cool ! http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/vehicles/cargobike/cargobikeindex.htm Of course ... many cargo bikes have very long chainstays . The only on-road differences I suppose would be getting used to the different cornering of a very long wheelbase. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Jobst on short chainstays
I’m still interested in the answers to “how long is too long?” and “what are the drawbacks to long, as long as it’s not too long?” My recent Appaloosa experience only confirms (for me at least) that Riv long doesn’t seem to be too long. Hugh “long in the tooth” Flynn Newburyport, MA On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 7:40 PM Metin Uz wrote: > One thing to note is that Jobst rode a very large frame, 64cm or maybe > taller. So shorter chainstays had him sitting over the rear wheel. We all > experience our own reality, and generalize from there. I remember Brian > Baylis claiming that Colnago's rode significantly better than other Italian > frames in 50cm or smaller sizes. Perhaps most designs were (are) based on > 56cm, than extrapolated. > > --Metin > > > On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 8:53:46 AM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote: >> >> Further comments by Jobst on chainstay length can be found here: >> >> http://yarchive.net/bike/frame_dimensions.html >> http://yarchive.net/bike/short_chainstays.html >> >> A couple of good quotes: >> >> For road bikes in the range that is available, the longer the >>> chainstays the better the bike handles in all but 10mph turns. >>> >>> >> and: >> >> Chainstay length is primarily a comfort effect of sitting directly >>> over the rear wheel or not. Secondarily, a short wheelbase makes >>> weight transfer on braking less advantageous and least of all steering >>> motions more disruptive to straight line riding. >> >> >> In the frame dimensions thread Jobst also says that when he was speccing >> his custom frames, he would basically have the builders (Tom Ritchey and >> Peter Johnson) leave the chainstays as long as possible, which I would >> guess put them somewhere around 45cm or more, so long for a traditional >> road or touring bike but not into the territory that Grant has pioneered, >> mainly because I don't think chainstays that long were available from tube >> manufacturers. Pictures of his Peter Johnson show that there was clearly >> more than adequate space behind the seat tube for a frame pump: >> >> http://bikecult.com/works/archive/04bicycles/pjohnsonJB04.html >> >> I wonder what Jobst would have made of Grant's recent designs. >> >> I ride my long chainstay bike (Clem) mainly as a MTB and I would say all >> of this holds true for off-road riding as well, where you are far more >> likely to encounter grades of 10% or more, and the bikes ability to keep >> the front wheel down while going up without significant body english feels >> like a real boon. On the way down, it feels stable and like it has a huge >> "sweet spot" where I am well balanced between the wheels. >> >> On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 7:09:16 AM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote: >>> >>> I was daydreaming about a bike project and looking for information about >>> some old IGHs this memorial day morning, and stumbled on a google group >>> thread from 1991 in which Jobst Brandt participated. I thought this >>> off-topic comment about chainstay length was interesting. Echoes >>> everything Rivendell (or vice versa, given the chronology), but it is the >>> first time I've heard the 'drafting' component of the racer-driven designs >>> explained. >>> >>> jobst_b...@hp1900.desk.hp.com >>> >>> K C- writes: >>> >>> > Try as I might, I just cannot for the life of me figure out how short >>> > chainstays are going to help climbing. Someone enlighten me before I >>> go >>> > nuts with this one!! >>> >>> That's simple. Short chainstays help you do wheelies if the hill gets >>> steep. It's this kind of thinking that brought us bike with so little >>> tire clearance that a one inch cross section damn near scrapes the fork >>> crown and requires letting the air out of the rear tire for removal. >>> >>> I think someone noticed that the fastest road bikes are the ones >>> ridden by TTT riders. These bikes are the shortest road bikes and >>> therefore, short bikes are fast. The trouble is, they are short to >>> allow four riders to draft as close together as possible, not because >>> a short bike is inherently fast. This concept seems to have escaped >>> the advocates of short bikes. They use terms like " they're >>> rsponsive" amd "accelerate quickly". What can you say to such a >>> claim? It is so patently unfounded that a response is difficult to >>> construct without being argumetative without just playing stupid. >>> >>> Bicycle lore is great, and shave those legs before climbing hills. >>> >>> jobst_...@hplabs.hp.com >>> >>> >>> R.I.P., Jobst. >>> >>> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- Hugh Flynn Newburyport,
[RBW] Re: Jobst on short chainstays
One thing to note is that Jobst rode a very large frame, 64cm or maybe taller. So shorter chainstays had him sitting over the rear wheel. We all experience our own reality, and generalize from there. I remember Brian Baylis claiming that Colnago's rode significantly better than other Italian frames in 50cm or smaller sizes. Perhaps most designs were (are) based on 56cm, than extrapolated. --Metin On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 8:53:46 AM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote: > > Further comments by Jobst on chainstay length can be found here: > > http://yarchive.net/bike/frame_dimensions.html > http://yarchive.net/bike/short_chainstays.html > > A couple of good quotes: > > For road bikes in the range that is available, the longer the >> chainstays the better the bike handles in all but 10mph turns. >> >> > and: > > Chainstay length is primarily a comfort effect of sitting directly >> over the rear wheel or not. Secondarily, a short wheelbase makes >> weight transfer on braking less advantageous and least of all steering >> motions more disruptive to straight line riding. > > > In the frame dimensions thread Jobst also says that when he was speccing > his custom frames, he would basically have the builders (Tom Ritchey and > Peter Johnson) leave the chainstays as long as possible, which I would > guess put them somewhere around 45cm or more, so long for a traditional > road or touring bike but not into the territory that Grant has pioneered, > mainly because I don't think chainstays that long were available from tube > manufacturers. Pictures of his Peter Johnson show that there was clearly > more than adequate space behind the seat tube for a frame pump: > > http://bikecult.com/works/archive/04bicycles/pjohnsonJB04.html > > I wonder what Jobst would have made of Grant's recent designs. > > I ride my long chainstay bike (Clem) mainly as a MTB and I would say all > of this holds true for off-road riding as well, where you are far more > likely to encounter grades of 10% or more, and the bikes ability to keep > the front wheel down while going up without significant body english feels > like a real boon. On the way down, it feels stable and like it has a huge > "sweet spot" where I am well balanced between the wheels. > > On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 7:09:16 AM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote: >> >> I was daydreaming about a bike project and looking for information about >> some old IGHs this memorial day morning, and stumbled on a google group >> thread from 1991 in which Jobst Brandt participated. I thought this >> off-topic comment about chainstay length was interesting. Echoes >> everything Rivendell (or vice versa, given the chronology), but it is the >> first time I've heard the 'drafting' component of the racer-driven designs >> explained. >> >> jobst_b...@hp1900.desk.hp.com >> >> K C- writes: >> >> > Try as I might, I just cannot for the life of me figure out how short >> > chainstays are going to help climbing. Someone enlighten me before I go >> > nuts with this one!! >> >> That's simple. Short chainstays help you do wheelies if the hill gets >> steep. It's this kind of thinking that brought us bike with so little >> tire clearance that a one inch cross section damn near scrapes the fork >> crown and requires letting the air out of the rear tire for removal. >> >> I think someone noticed that the fastest road bikes are the ones >> ridden by TTT riders. These bikes are the shortest road bikes and >> therefore, short bikes are fast. The trouble is, they are short to >> allow four riders to draft as close together as possible, not because >> a short bike is inherently fast. This concept seems to have escaped >> the advocates of short bikes. They use terms like " they're >> rsponsive" amd "accelerate quickly". What can you say to such a >> claim? It is so patently unfounded that a response is difficult to >> construct without being argumetative without just playing stupid. >> >> Bicycle lore is great, and shave those legs before climbing hills. >> >> jobst_...@hplabs.hp.com >> >> >> R.I.P., Jobst. >> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] How I came to own, and enjoy, a Clem Smith Jr
Welcome. That’s a great introduction and write up. Enjoy the Clem. Erl Kensington, MD -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Rack mounting on Clem
Cranks were from the '90s 8-speed group, I bought 'em NOS for an obscene amount of money. Since sold at probably a huge loss. Money comes, money goes! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Rack mounting on Clem
Thanks! BTW that crank is beautiful. Is it new(ish)? If so, where did you find a square-taper XT crank? On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 3:24:07 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote: > > Yep, those are M6 bolts, same as the bigger ones used on the front > mounting blocks for struts on your Pletscher rack. Here's a pic of mine > mounted on the same 45cm Clem H. I mounted to the inside of the braze-ons, > but you may want to stretch to the outside for more tire clearance..as > you've discovered, that rack is not friendly with fat tires. > > Joe Bernard > Novato CA. > > On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 2:54:45 PM UTC-7, Alan H wrote: > > So I'm looking for a bit of advice or insight. Sorry if this question > has been asked before and I missed it. > > > > > > I'm building up a new 45 cm Clem H as an off-road tourer/trail bike. > Really as a circa 1989 mountain bike. It's a not-very Rivendell inspired > build with an all Shimano drivetrain (42/32/24 triple up front and 11-36 > 10-speed in the rear) and 2.4" Conti X-King nobbies. Incidentally this > fairly massive tire easily fits within the frame limits, though I do have > to deflate them to get them past the v-brakes (even when they're opened > up). So far I love the bike. Fun on trails as long as they don't get too > gnarly. > > > > > > Now to my question. I'm trying to mount a Plescher Clem rack to the back > of the bike, but I'll be darned in the mounts on the rear dropouts aren't > odd sizes. There are three different mount points on the rear dropouts. One > is the normal screw size and fits the hardware supplied with the rack. The > problem is that it's the lowest mount point and the rack won't clear the > 2.4" tire if I mount it there. The other two mount points use larger screw > sizes that weren't supplied with the rack (even though the Riv video says > to mount the rack to the highest point in the rear dropout). > > > > > > Has anyone else had this issue with their Clem and mounting a rear rack? > If so, how did you deal with it? Does anyone know the size of the screws > needed for the other mount points on the rear dropout? Again, maybe I've > missed something, but I'm a little frustrated trying to get the rack > mounted. > > > > > > Thanks! > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] WTB: 32F front rack with light tab
I’m looking for the old style 32F front rack that was a front light tab. Let me know if you have one in good shape that you’d be willing to part with. Isaac PDX -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Green Guru Backpack 24L
Price drop...$40 shipped -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Has a product review or comment system on the Riv site ever been considered?
I would say to Riv's business model that they strive on carrying 1-2 variations of an item and they pick those because they think they are the best. Sort of eliminates the need for a star system. HOWEVER! Having review/comment space about ride quality, or a place for people to post their builds would be cool as it really speaks to showing off the flexibility each model has! On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:14 PM, d2mini wrote: > AHA! I missed that! Don't I feel silly now. :D > I guess I was looking for the typical 'stars' or whatever up near the > product name rather than down at the bottom. > And I see that is also where you can leave a review of your own. > Thanks! > > > On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 1:16:44 PM UTC-5, David B wrote: > >> This is a review section for every item. At the bottom of the >> description, click on reviews and it'll show them. Not every product has a >> review, I'd say most products don't have reviews, but there certainly is a >> space for it. >> David >> River Grove, IL >> >> On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 11:08:07 AM UTC-5, d2mini wrote: >>> >>> Just curious. I like seeing user reviews of products. >>> Riv's site is probably unique from most other online shops because >>> pretty much ever single product chosen are great products that Grant and >>> team would choose for themselves. >>> But even hearing things like why someone chose that particular item over >>> another, how it might compare to a similar item, how they've gotten along >>> with it, things they like, things I might not have thought of before >>> purchasing, etc can all be interesting and quite helpful. >>> Grant's descriptions are great but never hurts to hear a second opinion, >>> and when on the fence it could really help. Fences are not very >>> comfortable! :) >>> >>> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Has a product review or comment system on the Riv site ever been considered?
AHA! I missed that! Don't I feel silly now. :D I guess I was looking for the typical 'stars' or whatever up near the product name rather than down at the bottom. And I see that is also where you can leave a review of your own. Thanks! On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 1:16:44 PM UTC-5, David B wrote: > > This is a review section for every item. At the bottom of the description, > click on reviews and it'll show them. Not every product has a review, I'd > say most products don't have reviews, but there certainly is a space for it. > David > River Grove, IL > > On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 11:08:07 AM UTC-5, d2mini wrote: >> >> Just curious. I like seeing user reviews of products. >> Riv's site is probably unique from most other online shops because pretty >> much ever single product chosen are great products that Grant and team >> would choose for themselves. >> But even hearing things like why someone chose that particular item over >> another, how it might compare to a similar item, how they've gotten along >> with it, things they like, things I might not have thought of before >> purchasing, etc can all be interesting and quite helpful. >> Grant's descriptions are great but never hurts to hear a second opinion, >> and when on the fence it could really help. Fences are not very >> comfortable! :) >> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Jobst on short chainstays
Bill, I definitely meant option B! Eamon -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Has a product review or comment system on the Riv site ever been considered?
Aha! I missed that! Don't I feel silly now. :D Guess I was looking for the typical "stars" or whatever up above by the item name or something like that. Now for what is probably another dumb question... how does one leave a review? Thanks! On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 1:16:44 PM UTC-5, David B wrote: > > This is a review section for every item. At the bottom of the description, > click on reviews and it'll show them. Not every product has a review, I'd > say most products don't have reviews, but there certainly is a space for it. > David > River Grove, IL > > On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 11:08:07 AM UTC-5, d2mini wrote: >> >> Just curious. I like seeing user reviews of products. >> Riv's site is probably unique from most other online shops because pretty >> much ever single product chosen are great products that Grant and team >> would choose for themselves. >> But even hearing things like why someone chose that particular item over >> another, how it might compare to a similar item, how they've gotten along >> with it, things they like, things I might not have thought of before >> purchasing, etc can all be interesting and quite helpful. >> Grant's descriptions are great but never hurts to hear a second opinion, >> and when on the fence it could really help. Fences are not very >> comfortable! :) >> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Hammock camping?
Towards Deacon's point, I bought a hammock at REI and tried to sleep overnight in my backyard. I just couldn't do it. Laying on my back my knees hyperextending was unpleasant to the point that I moved inside. I sleep outside on a flat mini-deck in my backyard several times per summer, but I can't hammock-sleep. I may re-visit the concept with a quilt so I can get my legs apart and bent. Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 11:19:19 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote: > > Hey Brett ... as you allude to, hammocks are fantastic ... until they > aren’t. When aren’t they? > 1. When trees don’t cooperate by being where you want to camp, or spaced > right (long lines help this) > 2. Below xx˚F, at which point you have to haul insulation for > outside/below you. For me, that point is about freezing, which is a > possibility any night of the year where I camp. > > So, for ideal summer camping in climes that don’t turn to winter in a > flash, you’re golden. But if you are at altitude (8,000 ft. plus) I don’t > recommend it. Been there, done that, and never need to do it again. My > Hilleberg Akto tent is lightish (3+ lbs?), and for the “extra” two pounds > over an ultralight or hammock set up I have a warm and dry and hearty > shelter that is easy to set up anywhere regardless of conditions. I’m happy > to carry those two pounds. Grin. > > With abandon, > Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Hammock camping?
Patrick, good point about the actual or perceived weight savings. My bigger concern is space. I've got a light backpacking tent, but it is bulky. I can stuff the hammock, extra long straps, and sleeping bag in one small pannier, whereas I can't with a tent and sleeping bag and air mattress. I suppose that, since I don't know whether the trees will cooperate, even with long straps, I can bring an inflatable sleeping bag, just in case. Brett On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 11:19 AM, Deacon Patrick wrote: > Hey Brett ... as you allude to, hammocks are fantastic ... until they > aren’t. When aren’t they? > 1. When trees don’t cooperate by being where you want to camp, or spaced > right (long lines help this) > 2. Below xx˚F, at which point you have to haul insulation for > outside/below you. For me, that point is about freezing, which is a > possibility any night of the year where I camp. > > So, for ideal summer camping in climes that don’t turn to winter in a > flash, you’re golden. But if you are at altitude (8,000 ft. plus) I don’t > recommend it. Been there, done that, and never need to do it again. My > Hilleberg Akto tent is lightish (3+ lbs?), and for the “extra” two pounds > over an ultralight or hammock set up I have a warm and dry and hearty > shelter that is easy to set up anywhere regardless of conditions. I’m happy > to carry those two pounds. Grin. > > With abandon, > Patrick > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the > Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ > topic/rbw-owners-bunch/5XQ1k7Cc2do/unsubscribe. > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- -Brett Callahan 503-740-9815 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Has a product review or comment system on the Riv site ever been considered?
Hunqapillar has 11 reviews, going back at least 6 years, so reviews have carried over from previous iterations of the site. https://www.rivbike.com/collections/framesets/products/hunqapillar#shopify-product-reviews With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Hammock camping?
Hey Brett ... as you allude to, hammocks are fantastic ... until they aren’t. When aren’t they? 1. When trees don’t cooperate by being where you want to camp, or spaced right (long lines help this) 2. Below xx˚F, at which point you have to haul insulation for outside/below you. For me, that point is about freezing, which is a possibility any night of the year where I camp. So, for ideal summer camping in climes that don’t turn to winter in a flash, you’re golden. But if you are at altitude (8,000 ft. plus) I don’t recommend it. Been there, done that, and never need to do it again. My Hilleberg Akto tent is lightish (3+ lbs?), and for the “extra” two pounds over an ultralight or hammock set up I have a warm and dry and hearty shelter that is easy to set up anywhere regardless of conditions. I’m happy to carry those two pounds. Grin. With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Jobst on short chainstays
Eamon said "I do hope all the Taiwan bikes don't go to that extreme" That could mean one of two things A. I hope that ZERO Taiwan-made Rivendell models have a chainstay length of >50cm in any framesize B. I hope that there remain one or more Taiwan-made Rivendell models that are touring capable with a chainstay length of <50cm in my size The wording of Eamon's comment sounds like A, but I think he meant more like B. Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 8:43:59 AM UTC-7, Eamon Nordquist wrote: > > 1983 Trek 720's and 850's had 47 and 48.5 cm stays, respectively. I > suspect those were the maximum length you could get. Great riding bikes. I > think most people would objectively consider those long chainstays, and > that's about in the range of the current Waterford Atlantis. I doubt > Jobst's stays were any longer than that. > > Now, if one has reasons to find stays well into the 50's too long for > their purposes, that doesn't necessarily make you a long chainstay denier > who insists on 42-43 cm stays. I bet the very looong Riv's do ride great, > but I do hope all the Taiwan bikes don't go to that extreme. That doesn't > mean not making long bikes, but hopefully still keeping a Taiwan made > option that can tour, without having chainstays well into the 50-60 cm > range. > > Eamon > Seattle > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Has a product review or comment system on the Riv site ever been considered?
This is a review section for every item. At the bottom of the description, click on reviews and it'll show them. Not every product has a review, I'd say most products don't have reviews, but there certainly is a space for it. David River Grove, IL On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 11:08:07 AM UTC-5, d2mini wrote: > > Just curious. I like seeing user reviews of products. > Riv's site is probably unique from most other online shops because pretty > much ever single product chosen are great products that Grant and team > would choose for themselves. > But even hearing things like why someone chose that particular item over > another, how it might compare to a similar item, how they've gotten along > with it, things they like, things I might not have thought of before > purchasing, etc can all be interesting and quite helpful. > Grant's descriptions are great but never hurts to hear a second opinion, > and when on the fence it could really help. Fences are not very > comfortable! :) > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Hammock camping?
Hey Tim, great point about insulation. I've slept in a hammock overnight before and not had that problem, but it was in July. I'm thinking that one of those silvery emergency blanket type things might make for a good lightweight insulator. Incidentally, if you're free next weekend and want to camp out at Stub Stewart, you should joint us! Glad to hear you're enjoying the boscos. I recently ordered some billie bars, but haven't had enough miles on them yet to form an opinion. On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 10:51 AM, Tim O. (Portland, OR) < timothycharles...@gmail.com> wrote: > Morning, Brett! > > I'm testing a set up right now. I'd suggest either finding a way to have > insulation beneath the hammock or using an sleeping pad inside the hammock. > If you don't do that, all the insulation from your bag will be squished and > you'll have a cold butt. No fun. If you can, give it a try in your backyard > for a night first. > > Cheers, > Tim > > Ps. I'm still loving that Bosco bars! > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the > Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ > topic/rbw-owners-bunch/5XQ1k7Cc2do/unsubscribe. > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- -Brett Callahan 503-740-9815 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: FS: Compass Rat Trap Pass EL Tan
Sold and shipped. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Hammock camping?
Morning, Brett! I'm testing a set up right now. I'd suggest either finding a way to have insulation beneath the hammock or using an sleeping pad inside the hammock. If you don't do that, all the insulation from your bag will be squished and you'll have a cold butt. No fun. If you can, give it a try in your backyard for a night first. Cheers, Tim Ps. I'm still loving that Bosco bars! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: How I came to own, and enjoy, a Clem Smith Jr
This wouldn't happen to be yours? https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/53229637 On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 1:39:57 AM UTC-4, LeRoy wrote: > > > This is my first post and follows the initial shakedown ride on my > new-to-me second-hand Clem Smith Jr. I'll make the short story long. I > returned to cycling three years ago after a 20-year hiatus. I haven’t > really been an avid cyclist since my twenties and that period is about 40 > years in the rearview mirror. > On returning to cycling I dusted off and gave a mechanical once-over to a > 25 year old Kettler Alu-Rad, a bike I bought new in 1991 while living in > Germany. The Kettler is an aluminum-framed German bike fitted out as what > would probably be called a hybrid today. Its geometry is early ’90s > mountain bike style but, following the German norms, it’s a fully-fendered > bike with lights, generator, rear rack, spare spokes and another kilo or > two of paraphernalia. So much for the lightness of an aluminum frame. As I > rode the Kettler at this stage of life, it became clear that it was no > longer the bike for me. The wheelbase is quite short, the fork rake > somewhat steep and the whole bike rides in a twitchy and jarring fashion. I > knew within a few months of returning to cycling that a new bike was in > order. The search commenced. > > The first good move that I made was not to buy anything the first year, or > the second. It took me that long to get reacquainted with what’s on the > market these days. I didn’t really know what would suit my riding style and > anticipated future uses. As things developed, I found myself turning away > from the mountain bike look and configuration. What I mean by that is the > more I looked, the more I found that things like flat bars, front > suspension, aluminum frames and the latest whizz-bangery didn’t seem to add > much to the riding I was doing. Plus, I don’t look good in lycra – not that > there’s anything wrong with the look, just not on me! > > I stumbled across Brooklyn bikes one day and found the style interesting > but the overall presentation a little too hipster-ish. However, the > brochure and website both referenced Grant Peterson and Rivendell for their > guidance. That brought me to the rivbike site. I spent a year or so getting > acquainted with the product line. So much for the preamble. > > Ultimately I began looking for a used Clem Smith Jr in the 52 or 59 size. > The drivers of this focus were budgetary, the Clem’s general versatility, > the ability to fit wide tires and various styles of racks, and the expected > benefits of an improved ride and more upright seating position. However, I > didn’t want to make an expensive mistake. Hence a search among used bikes. > > Since Rivendell bikes are thin on the ground here in southeast Michigan, I > used a search function to scan Craigslist nationwide. On a side note, > had I found this RBW Owners Bunch sooner, I’d likely also have found a > Clem sooner. I eventually found the bike I bought in New Jersey, > conveniently close-ish to my brother’s place in Delaware. On a recent trip > there I looked at and bought what I understand is a first generation Clem > 59: green frame and swept rear seat stays are among its tell-tales. The > bike included fenders, front and rear Soma racks, Clem pedals, Schwalbe Big > Apple tires and a generic saddle. Overall it’s a very good-looking > combination. > > On reassembling the bike at home (extensive disassembly is necessary to > fit a Clem 59 into a Jeep Renegade with three fellows and luggage on board) > I was glad that this required going over the bike pretty extensively. As I > got it, the bike was in overall good shape. However, I found some buggered > threads in a few braze-ons, a tie-wrap where a bolt would have been better > on the rear fender installation, and one really horrifying use of a > self-tapping metal screw used in a stripped braze-on. That one had me > cursing a previous owner’s butchery. Chasing the threads and enlarging a > few from M5 to M6 threads cured the issues. Everything went back together > in a sound and solid fashion. > > So, what about my first impressions after the shakedown ride? It’s a > delight! My chief point of comparison is the overly stiff and compact > Kettler described above. The Clem is a whole different ride and much the > better for its differences. First, the wheelbase is nearly 8 inches longer > and the Clem’s seating position is well forward of the rear wheel. As a > result, feedback from the road, bumps and thumps are all muted due both to > the geometry and the damping characteristic of the steel frame. The 29-inch > wheels and Schwalbe tires add an easy-rolling feel compared to the 26-inch > wheels and ancient Continental Town and Country tires on the Kettler. The > upright seating position and Bosco bars redistribute my weight such that my > hands are more naturally-positioned and are carrying
[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.
i didn't read every comment so apologies if this has been said, but something that has happened to me in the past is the shift cable end that pops out of the front derailer ends up bending out, then every pedal stroke can pluck it and make a noise at that particular point in the crank rotation. this is often overlooked because ppl think it's a grease issue. On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 4:52:06 PM UTC-7, Nathan Neuberger wrote: > > I'm in need of some help with an aggravating problem. Several years ago my > bike developed a clicking sound. It occurs at the same spot in the crank > rotation. Curiously, the click does not always happen (sometimes its > sleeping), but tends to wake up most often during a climb or when I'm > hauling a load. But it occurs during easy riding as well. > > > This winter, my bike was in need of some TLC, so I replaced the chain, > cassette, chainring set (but not the crank arms) and the bottom bracket. > Overhauled the hubs too. That covered almost every moving part, so I > figured that would solve it. Nope. > > > I think it is likely a pedal issue. The clicking only occurs when my right > pedal is at about 12:00 (about to start a downstroke) and under relatively > heavy pressure. Just pedaling with my left foot does not seem to trigger > the click. > > > Bike is a Rivendell Homer Hilsen (2009-ish). The pedals are MKS grip > kings. I took off both pedals, cleaned them, replaced all bearings, and put > in tons of grease. I did not see or feel any issues with the races. The > click is still there, and seems to have gotten a little worse since I > overhauled the pedals. Could the click be caused by the pedal cone being > too tight? > > > Any other ideas? > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Jobst on short chainstays
You guys are correct. I didn't consider the context of Jobst's comments, and what length of stays were even available in that era. Obviously, as those of you who were even more familiar with his contributions and philosophy than me realized, he was pretty outspoken about this too. The lightbulb for me was the idea that the ultra-short stays preference came about by trying to emulate a "team" of riders who worked in a tightly-grouped paceline pack, drafting each other. Too bad someone didn't make the argument that the REALLY fast riders - the ones who could be competitive on their own merits and without the team - were better off with a more stable bike in which more of their exertion was transmitted into forward motion instead of some of it being necessary to keep a wobbly, twitchy bike pointed straight. Like a speed skate vs a figure skate. But I don't really know what I'm talking about here, because I've always been a non-racer type bike enthusiast in addition to mostly mountain biking. All I know is that every time I get used to a longer chainstay, I lose all interest in riding my old, shorter bikes that I once thought I'd keep forever. Since I very rarely do group road rides, I couldn't understand why so many people are so resistant to them - until now. The weight and 'quickness' arguments are so evident in their fallacy. Twitchy might 'feel' the same as quick but a cycle computer tells you it's not, and all anyone has to do is try it. I'm sure there's a limit to what length makes sense, but I'm personally looking forward to finding it. I too wonder what Jobst would have thought about Rivendell's new chainstays. I'm sure people will get their wish of some models being retained that don't quite push that limit and that stay well short of the 50s. Looking at the new geometry chart again just now I see that, as their designs are updated and production moved, SOME of the models (Atlantis) seem to moving completely toward *proportional* chainstays which increase incrementally with the frame size, with other models (Homer) less so - at least for now. Interesting that the newer Roadini is proportional AND mostly intended as a go-fast. I'm guessing the bottom bracket shell casting complication is the difference? On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 9:43:59 AM UTC-6, Eamon Nordquist wrote: > > 1983 Trek 720's and 850's had 47 and 48.5 cm stays, respectively. I > suspect those were the maximum length you could get. Great riding bikes. I > think most people would objectively consider those long chainstays, and > that's about in the range of the current Waterford Atlantis. I doubt > Jobst's stays were any longer than that. > > Now, if one has reasons to find stays well into the 50's too long for > their purposes, that doesn't necessarily make you a long chainstay denier > who insists on 42-43 cm stays. I bet the very looong Riv's do ride great, > but I do hope all the Taiwan bikes don't go to that extreme. That doesn't > mean not making long bikes, but hopefully still keeping a Taiwan made > option that can tour, without having chainstays well into the 50-60 cm > range. > > Eamon > Seattle > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Model redundancy: Why not offer only canti/V brakes on all models? Why not offer a 650b on every model?
I think the models are also between sizes so it would allow Rivendell to provide better sizing with the MTT bikes. I hear a lot of folks complain when they fall between the size recommendations for a MTT bike. The Brake and wheel size change seem to just add a little more variation. I looked at the catalogue and thought how Rivendell did actually simplify their models down to Loaded touring, country or gravel by today’s language, and Road, plus the Clem L. That seems like a great lineup though one disc model would be appreciate for us folks in rainy commute climates. I can’t say brake choices would be dispositive for me on either model. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Model redundancy: Why not offer only canti/V brakes on all models? Why not offer a 650b on every model?
I think every model should have a duplicate in a different color with disc brakes. Grant probably disagrees! ;-) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Model redundancy: Why not offer only canti/V brakes on all models? Why not offer a 650b on every model?
I believe consolidating to canti/v-brakes posts on all models would actually add, rather than reduce, redundancy. Riv has a small but rather varied line-up but one thing I think really sets them apart is the fact that even the Roadini/Roadeo are designed and made to handle more rubber/fenders/luggage than your average road bike but while still hitting the mark for those that may want a stripped down, lightweight, go fast. I think the impression that Riv is hard pressed (in the new catalog) to differentiate significant differences in their line-up is even more telling of this versatility of their frames and the fact that although they may be optimized for certain types of riding/builds they are still very capable of handling more (or less) if/when the opportunity or need ever arises. Such as with their more stout/rugged models, like the Clem, which is made to withstand rough terrain and heavy loads but which I've also greatly enjoyed riding unloaded on pavement without ever feeling over-equipped. Brian Cole Lawrenceville NJ On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 11:50:18 AM UTC-4, Eamon Nordquist wrote: > I don't think canti's look wrong on most any bike, but there's plenty of > reasons to use side of center pull brakes. Brazing on cantilever posts also > cost more. I think they strike pretty good balance on the brake styles. > > Eamon > Seattle > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: How I came to own, and enjoy, a Clem Smith Jr
Love the report thanks for sharing. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: How I came to own, and enjoy, a Clem Smith Jr
Another Michigan Riv rider! Congrats on your new ride. I love my 1st gen Clem. I share your horror at a self-tapping sheet metal screw being used anywhere on the bike. Glad you could remedy that easily. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Has a product review or comment system on the Riv site ever been considered?
They had it on the previous iteration of the site. -J -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Fork Crown Fender Bolt length
Much appreciated, Peter! On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 7:56:59 AM UTC-4, Peter White wrote: > > We've always used a 50mm cap screw for Rivendells with lights and fenders. > Here's an example showing how you would figure it out. > > I have an Atlanta here from about 2002 when they were built in Japan. The > crown is 32mm thick. The Busch & Müller mount you refer to (my part number > B) is 4.2mm thick at the crown. A 6mm Nylock nut is a hair under > 6mm thick. You'll probably want a washer between the head of the allen cap > screw and the mount. I like to use a large OD washer for that purpose. All > metric cap screws I know of are sold in 5mm increments in that size range, > so without the fender mount you'll need a minimum 45mm cap screw. Your > fender mount may add enough thickness to require a 50mm cap screw. Since > you probably can't measure your fork crown thickness, and since it may be > different from this 2002 version, I'd buy the 50mm cap screw. > > Peter White > Peter White Cycles > > On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 3:28 PM, John G. > > wrote: > >> You'd think this would be a simple matter of, "Let me google that for >> you," but I've had little luck with that so far. >> >> I'm looking to mount my Edelux from the fork crown of my fendered >> Atlantis. I'll be using the Edelux "long" light mount that Rivendell sells, >> but I think the bolt I currently use to attach my front fender won't give >> be long enough. Does anyone with a similar setup know how long of a bolt I >> should use? I want to say a 50mm M5 should work, but I'm away from my bike >> and hoping to grab one on my way home later today. >> >> Thanks! >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . >> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com >> . >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > > > > -- > Peter White > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Has a product review or comment system on the Riv site ever been considered?
Just curious. I like seeing user reviews of products. Riv's site is probably unique from most other online shops because pretty much ever single product chosen are great products that Grant and team would choose for themselves. But even hearing things like why someone chose that particular item over another, how it might compare to a similar item, how they've gotten along with it, things they like, things I might not have thought of before purchasing, etc can all be interesting and quite helpful. Grant's descriptions are great but never hurts to hear a second opinion, and when on the fence it could really help. Fences are not very comfortable! :) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.
I've had several mystery click battles in recent years on a few different bikes. The culprits were (in no particular order) front derailer cable tag end/crimp clicking the crank each rotation, loose spokes, a worn out pedal, creaking saddle nose (which I eventually learned to live with,) creaking stem/bar clamp, and my longest battle to date resulted in finally finding a cracked seatstay at the seat-tube junction on an old lugged road frame. That one drove me nuts more than any other and only found the crack after going back to make saddle adjustments after a saddle change and just happened to be looking from the right angle in the right lighting to see it. My most obvious was a clunking sound from a worn cartridge bottom bracket since it was paired with a matching grinding sensation I felt through the crank/pedal. On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 10:47:59 PM UTC-4, spru...@gmail.com wrote: > > I share your frustration with a mystery click. I had a similar problem > once, and although the story is not to my credit, it may help. > > I had the mystery clicking only when I pedaled hard. It didn't occur when > I was coasting, and I couldn't reproduce the sound in my work stand. > > Only after I had removed and reinstalled the pedals, cranks, and bottom > bracket and was preparing to address the seat post and saddle did I notice > that my banana bag was unbuckled and the part of the strap with the buckle > was in a position to knock against the seat post when I twisted the saddle > with strong pedaling. I would have sworn that the sound was much lower in > the bike. > > Good luck with your quest. Let us know what you find out. > > David Sprunger > Fargo, ND > > > On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 8:43 PM David B > > wrote: > >> Highly unlikely for a 2009 Riv, but no one has mentioned it: check around >> bottom bracket shell for cracks. >> I had a Schwinn Voyageur crack were the seattube met the bottom bracket >> shell. The tube had almost clear through with a bit of the bb lug. >> Examining it after, it had been a very slow crack that had been clicking >> for a while before it became structurally noticeable. >> Again, very unlikely but worth taking a look. >> David >> River Grove, IL >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . >> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com >> . >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.
Sorry I didn't read through every post, just now seeing this thread. But every single time this has happened to me, it was a loose pedal. And by "loose" I mean not reay tight in the crank arm. Once I grabbed the pedal wrench and really "cranked" down on it, seeing even just smidge of a turn, no more clicking sound. On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 6:52:06 PM UTC-5, Nathan Neuberger wrote: > > I'm in need of some help with an aggravating problem. Several years ago my > bike developed a clicking sound. It occurs at the same spot in the crank > rotation. Curiously, the click does not always happen (sometimes its > sleeping), but tends to wake up most often during a climb or when I'm > hauling a load. But it occurs during easy riding as well. > > > This winter, my bike was in need of some TLC, so I replaced the chain, > cassette, chainring set (but not the crank arms) and the bottom bracket. > Overhauled the hubs too. That covered almost every moving part, so I > figured that would solve it. Nope. > > > I think it is likely a pedal issue. The clicking only occurs when my right > pedal is at about 12:00 (about to start a downstroke) and under relatively > heavy pressure. Just pedaling with my left foot does not seem to trigger > the click. > > > Bike is a Rivendell Homer Hilsen (2009-ish). The pedals are MKS grip > kings. I took off both pedals, cleaned them, replaced all bearings, and put > in tons of grease. I did not see or feel any issues with the races. The > click is still there, and seems to have gotten a little worse since I > overhauled the pedals. Could the click be caused by the pedal cone being > too tight? > > > Any other ideas? > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Model redundancy: Why not offer only canti/V brakes on all models? Why not offer a 650b on every model?
I don't think canti's look wrong on most any bike, but there's plenty of reasons to use side of center pull brakes. Brazing on cantilever posts also cost more. I think they strike pretty good balance on the brake styles. Eamon Seattle -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Jobst on short chainstays
1983 Trek 720's and 850's had 47 and 48.5 cm stays, respectively. I suspect those were the maximum length you could get. Great riding bikes. I think most people would objectively consider those long chainstays, and that's about in the range of the current Waterford Atlantis. I doubt Jobst's stays were any longer than that. Now, if one has reasons to find stays well into the 50's too long for their purposes, that doesn't necessarily make you a long chainstay denier who insists on 42-43 cm stays. I bet the very looong Riv's do ride great, but I do hope all the Taiwan bikes don't go to that extreme. That doesn't mean not making long bikes, but hopefully still keeping a Taiwan made option that can tour, without having chainstays well into the 50-60 cm range. Eamon Seattle -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Hammock camping?
Hi all, I'm heading out this weekend for a 2 day trip with some friends and planning to take a hammock and inflatable pillow instead of my usual tent setup that I use for backpacking. The only other times I've camped via bike I've lugged the tent, but I'm going for lighter this time around. I've a tarp to string above the hammock in case of light rain, and if the forecast calls for anything more than that, I'll scrap this plan and bring a tent. Seeing as there seems to be a pretty big cross section between Riv riders and bike campers, I wondered if anyone has any tips to share? I'm specifically asking for tips for a first time hammock camper, but if anyone has any great tips for camping via bike in general, I'm happy to take those as well. Also, I realize the "Riv-content" of this post is pretty loose, so if it's not appropriate, someone let me know and I'll delete. Cheers, Brett -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Model redundancy: Why not offer only canti/V brakes on all models? Why not offer a 650b on every model?
Why stop with brakes? Maybe Riv should just have one model, all things for all people right? Your choice whether you want to run 23 mm tires or 63 mm tires! One frame tubing spec, one wheel size, for all! Any color you want, as long as it is grilliver? /sarcasm I agree with the poster that said it would reduce sales. Some people prefer a bike with sidepulls, if Riv did not have them, they'd be likely to go elsewhere. A Roadeo or a Roadini is a very different animal than the Atlantis and Appaloosa and thusly different part types accommodated. Then there's the other point of model overlap. If Riv wants to have different models in a similar space what's it to the OP? Is this some kind of reaction to the cash flow problems over the wintertime? I mean, the big manufacturers not only differentiate by model, but then also by build groupsets, wheels and so forth. So outfits like Trek, Giant and Specialized have a byzantine array of models to offer. In light of this I don't think having some model overlap in Riv models is a problem, I mean, the big OEMs have a huge amount of overlap when you consider the difference between some of these models is as little as 100 grams when talking about 105 vs Ultegra, etc. Here's something I ripped from Trek's site about just the various kind of uses they are thinking about addressing. And Rivendell has too much overlap? On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 9:35 AM, Jeremy Till wrote: > We should also remember that it was Grant that convinced Tektro to start > producing the R559 (aka "Silver") caliper with it's 55-76mm reach and > clearance for ~38mm tires and fenders, and this brake was basically the > raison d'etre for the first A. Homer Hilsens. So it makes sense that he > would keep speccing it on that bike. > > > On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 10:24:13 AM UTC-7, tc wrote: >> >> Looking at the new Homer vs. new (canti/V) Sam, the question popped up in >> my mind, why bother with side pull and center pull brakes any longer? >> Aesthetics? And if so, are the aesthetics of canti/V *that *offensive >> to some? Is there some technical reason? I'm asking because I'm truly >> interested what others think, and don't know why *I* would choose a bike >> with side/center pulls over canti/V's, all else the same. >> >> If Riv, in an effort to reduce redundancy, and *if* it allowed them to >> offer more different models (I don't know that it would, just guessing), >> determined that all future bikes will be offered only with canti/V posts, >> is there anyone that would be significantly miffed? The new catalog almost >> seems hard pressed to justify *significant* differences in Homer/Sam, >> Atlantis/Joe. >> >> It seems that most on this forum at least, and Riv, are in the bigger >> tire with fender camp. I've never read a post about someone wishing for >> less room for tires and fenders. The majority tend not to be weight >> weenies, or at least keep 1 featherweight in their stable for racing, but >> like their other frames for other reasons. I don't know if we on this >> forum are in the majority of all Riv owners, but by looking at the >> more-decked-out-than-my-Riv "New Bike Saturday" pictures on Riv's >> instagram, I'm guessing weight is their last concern >> >> In general, I would prefer Riv offer either a Homer or a Sam, and either >> an Atlantis or a Joe. I'm making a big assumption that doing so would be >> financially better, but for some reason it might not be. Anyway, pick the >> best of each and introduce Homer Hillborne and Joe Atlantis (kidding, but >> you know what I mean) Each would offer 650b options in the mid sizes and >> only canti/V brakes. >> >> And, after ridding itself of those 2 redundancies, inject 1 or 2 new >> bikes into the mix that are not loaded tourers or country bikes. I'm no >> business major, but seems to me that redundant models of bikes isn't far >> off from the GM failed strategy of offering basically the same car but >> calling one a Buick X vs. a Pontiac Y vs. a Olds Z, and we know where that >> ended up. >> >> I just want Riv to succeed in a big way. I so love their bikes. So, I >> started thinking, in a curious way, if it were me, what would I do >> differently? Starting with only canti/V brakes and some 650b options in >> all/most models might be a place to start. Curious about others thoughts. >> >> Tom >> >> >> >> >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- -- signature goes here -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the
[RBW] Re: Model redundancy: Why not offer only canti/V brakes on all models? Why not offer a 650b on every model?
We should also remember that it was Grant that convinced Tektro to start producing the R559 (aka "Silver") caliper with it's 55-76mm reach and clearance for ~38mm tires and fenders, and this brake was basically the raison d'etre for the first A. Homer Hilsens. So it makes sense that he would keep speccing it on that bike. On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 10:24:13 AM UTC-7, tc wrote: > > Looking at the new Homer vs. new (canti/V) Sam, the question popped up in > my mind, why bother with side pull and center pull brakes any longer? > Aesthetics? And if so, are the aesthetics of canti/V *that *offensive to > some? Is there some technical reason? I'm asking because I'm truly > interested what others think, and don't know why *I* would choose a bike > with side/center pulls over canti/V's, all else the same. > > If Riv, in an effort to reduce redundancy, and *if* it allowed them to > offer more different models (I don't know that it would, just guessing), > determined that all future bikes will be offered only with canti/V posts, > is there anyone that would be significantly miffed? The new catalog almost > seems hard pressed to justify *significant* differences in Homer/Sam, > Atlantis/Joe. > > It seems that most on this forum at least, and Riv, are in the bigger tire > with fender camp. I've never read a post about someone wishing for less > room for tires and fenders. The majority tend not to be weight weenies, or > at least keep 1 featherweight in their stable for racing, but like their > other frames for other reasons. I don't know if we on this forum are in > the majority of all Riv owners, but by looking at the > more-decked-out-than-my-Riv "New Bike Saturday" pictures on Riv's > instagram, I'm guessing weight is their last concern > > In general, I would prefer Riv offer either a Homer or a Sam, and either > an Atlantis or a Joe. I'm making a big assumption that doing so would be > financially better, but for some reason it might not be. Anyway, pick the > best of each and introduce Homer Hillborne and Joe Atlantis (kidding, but > you know what I mean) Each would offer 650b options in the mid sizes and > only canti/V brakes. > > And, after ridding itself of those 2 redundancies, inject 1 or 2 new bikes > into the mix that are not loaded tourers or country bikes. I'm no business > major, but seems to me that redundant models of bikes isn't far off from > the GM failed strategy of offering basically the same car but calling one a > Buick X vs. a Pontiac Y vs. a Olds Z, and we know where that ended up. > > I just want Riv to succeed in a big way. I so love their bikes. So, I > started thinking, in a curious way, if it were me, what would I do > differently? Starting with only canti/V brakes and some 650b options in > all/most models might be a place to start. Curious about others thoughts. > > Tom > > > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Model redundancy: Why not offer only canti/V brakes on all models? Why not offer a 650b on every model?
I believe cantis means Riv would have to make tubing choices to accommodate the stress on the fork and seat stay. When I was looking at getting a MUSA AHH but a canti version, they told me that the fork and seat stay would have to be beefed up a little and if I was okay with that. On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 1:24:13 PM UTC-4, tc wrote: > > Looking at the new Homer vs. new (canti/V) Sam, the question popped up in > my mind, why bother with side pull and center pull brakes any longer? > Aesthetics? And if so, are the aesthetics of canti/V *that *offensive to > some? Is there some technical reason? I'm asking because I'm truly > interested what others think, and don't know why *I* would choose a bike > with side/center pulls over canti/V's, all else the same. > > If Riv, in an effort to reduce redundancy, and *if* it allowed them to > offer more different models (I don't know that it would, just guessing), > determined that all future bikes will be offered only with canti/V posts, > is there anyone that would be significantly miffed? The new catalog almost > seems hard pressed to justify *significant* differences in Homer/Sam, > Atlantis/Joe. > > It seems that most on this forum at least, and Riv, are in the bigger tire > with fender camp. I've never read a post about someone wishing for less > room for tires and fenders. The majority tend not to be weight weenies, or > at least keep 1 featherweight in their stable for racing, but like their > other frames for other reasons. I don't know if we on this forum are in > the majority of all Riv owners, but by looking at the > more-decked-out-than-my-Riv "New Bike Saturday" pictures on Riv's > instagram, I'm guessing weight is their last concern > > In general, I would prefer Riv offer either a Homer or a Sam, and either > an Atlantis or a Joe. I'm making a big assumption that doing so would be > financially better, but for some reason it might not be. Anyway, pick the > best of each and introduce Homer Hillborne and Joe Atlantis (kidding, but > you know what I mean) Each would offer 650b options in the mid sizes and > only canti/V brakes. > > And, after ridding itself of those 2 redundancies, inject 1 or 2 new bikes > into the mix that are not loaded tourers or country bikes. I'm no business > major, but seems to me that redundant models of bikes isn't far off from > the GM failed strategy of offering basically the same car but calling one a > Buick X vs. a Pontiac Y vs. a Olds Z, and we know where that ended up. > > I just want Riv to succeed in a big way. I so love their bikes. So, I > started thinking, in a curious way, if it were me, what would I do > differently? Starting with only canti/V brakes and some 650b options in > all/most models might be a place to start. Curious about others thoughts. > > Tom > > > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] FS: 58cm Atlantis complete
Sold -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Rack mounting on Clem
I mounted a Clem rack on my fat bike with 3.8" tires - easy install. Just drill out the rivets that attach the rear struts to the rack. Attach the rear struts to the side rail mounts with bolts. If you want to run side rails also, just use longer bolts and use a spacer on the front side rail mount, same width as the rear struts - the spacers that Riv sells are perfect. It is an asymmetric 135 mm frame so one side mounted inside the frame and the other side mounted outside the frame. Laing Cocoa, FL. On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 6:24:07 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote: > Yep, those are M6 bolts, same as the bigger ones used on the front > mounting blocks for struts on your Pletscher rack. Here's a pic of mine > mounted on the same 45cm Clem H. I mounted to the inside of the braze-ons, > but you may want to stretch to the outside for more tire clearance..as > you've discovered, that rack is not friendly with fat tires. > > Joe Bernard > Novato CA. > > On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 2:54:45 PM UTC-7, Alan H wrote: > > So I'm looking for a bit of advice or insight. Sorry if this question > has been asked before and I missed it. > > > > > > I'm building up a new 45 cm Clem H as an off-road tourer/trail bike. > Really as a circa 1989 mountain bike. It's a not-very Rivendell inspired > build with an all Shimano drivetrain (42/32/24 triple up front and 11-36 > 10-speed in the rear) and 2.4" Conti X-King nobbies. Incidentally this > fairly massive tire easily fits within the frame limits, though I do have > to deflate them to get them past the v-brakes (even when they're opened > up). So far I love the bike. Fun on trails as long as they don't get too > gnarly. > > > > > > Now to my question. I'm trying to mount a Plescher Clem rack to the back > of the bike, but I'll be darned in the mounts on the rear dropouts aren't > odd sizes. There are three different mount points on the rear dropouts. One > is the normal screw size and fits the hardware supplied with the rack. The > problem is that it's the lowest mount point and the rack won't clear the > 2.4" tire if I mount it there. The other two mount points use larger screw > sizes that weren't supplied with the rack (even though the Riv video says > to mount the rack to the highest point in the rear dropout). > > > > > > Has anyone else had this issue with their Clem and mounting a rear rack? > If so, how did you deal with it? Does anyone know the size of the screws > needed for the other mount points on the rear dropout? Again, maybe I've > missed something, but I'm a little frustrated trying to get the rack > mounted. > > > > > > Thanks! > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Fork Crown Fender Bolt length
We've always used a 50mm cap screw for Rivendells with lights and fenders. Here's an example showing how you would figure it out. I have an Atlanta here from about 2002 when they were built in Japan. The crown is 32mm thick. The Busch & Müller mount you refer to (my part number B) is 4.2mm thick at the crown. A 6mm Nylock nut is a hair under 6mm thick. You'll probably want a washer between the head of the allen cap screw and the mount. I like to use a large OD washer for that purpose. All metric cap screws I know of are sold in 5mm increments in that size range, so without the fender mount you'll need a minimum 45mm cap screw. Your fender mount may add enough thickness to require a 50mm cap screw. Since you probably can't measure your fork crown thickness, and since it may be different from this 2002 version, I'd buy the 50mm cap screw. Peter White Peter White Cycles On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 3:28 PM, John G. wrote: > You'd think this would be a simple matter of, "Let me google that for > you," but I've had little luck with that so far. > > I'm looking to mount my Edelux from the fork crown of my fendered > Atlantis. I'll be using the Edelux "long" light mount that Rivendell sells, > but I think the bolt I currently use to attach my front fender won't give > be long enough. Does anyone with a similar setup know how long of a bolt I > should use? I want to say a 50mm M5 should work, but I'm away from my bike > and hoping to grab one on my way home later today. > > Thanks! > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- Peter White -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: How I came to own, and enjoy, a Clem Smith Jr
Congratulations on your new to you bike. Also thanks for the write up. I like reading stories like you have written. As for getting on your bike, it is sometimes easier to angle the bike towards yourself so that it lowers the height that you have to swing your leg over. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: How I came to own, and enjoy, a Clem Smith Jr
Congratulations! I think you'll enjoy the C19 - I've got it my Clem - the dimensions are closer to a B17 than the C17 is, oddly enough. The cambium is a bit springy: combined with huge tires and a long wheelbase...it's heaven. Keep us updated. -Jacob BK -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] How I came to own, and enjoy, a Clem Smith Jr
Leroy, Welcome to the group. Great story and not to long since it answers most questions readers would have had with a more concise story. Alway glad to add another RBW rider to the mitten state. Sincerely, Ryan Hankinson West Michigan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
