Lambbo, you can use a circular file to remove some of the material at the
end of the caliper arm, thereby allowing you to run the pads slightly
lower. I've had to do this as well.
As for long-reach brakes in the wet. I have a rim-brake road bike that was
my daily commuter here in Portland,
If I were going to buy new bars today to put on my road bike AND I were using
modern-shaped levers (longer than the Shimanos that Riv sells) I would get the
VO Nouveau Rando Bar with their 31.8 quill stem. It looks supremely
comfortable, is silver and is designed for larger/longer/more reach
Brooks seems to have evolved the fabric top a bit. More/slicker rubber
coating?
On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 1:13 PM Hoffsta wrote:
> I tried an early Cambium C17 but experienced it eating all my shorts very
> quickly and it seemed the fabric textured top was responsible. I saw one in
> a shop the
Mark- When I was out from NYC to Riv headquarters in October they measured my
pbh at 87.5. They loaned my son and me a pair of atlantises and I rode the 56cm
all over town and Shell ridge trails. I loved the 56 and I usually ride larger
bikes on road (60 ram, 62 quickbeam). I tried the 59 but
Actually, I'm thinking about the top of the Cambium All-Weather, which is
what I have on my bikes. Its top is better (in my opinion) than the
original Cambium.
https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/saddles/cambium/cambium-c17-carved-all-weather-black.html
On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 1:22 PM Tim Gavin
Thanks Ed. Valuable feedback.
Justin, I was going to use some Tektro RL200s I have laying aroun. I also
have some 340s but those are currently on my QB. I am going barcon
friction.
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Will's recent Email about selecting a Brooks has me thinking about trying a
Cambium again. I've tried the Cambium C17 in the past. At first I liked it
well enough but that changed the first time I had to do a long ride. I ride
my Sam with Alba's and Appaloosa with Billie's. I would say that my
I tried an early Cambium C17 but experienced it eating all my shorts very
quickly and it seemed the fabric textured top was responsible. I saw one in
a shop the other day and it looked smoother. Are there different textures
available or did it get updated at some point? I found the saddle
Good grief, Andy. Awful. I’m glad you ALL have been able to ride despite your
injuries. I remember feeling miserable on the flat-bar Trek I had scored on
Craigslist. I sold it and got a Rivendell and now no other bike will do. That
was 2012, and I was 31, so there are a few of us 30-somethings
“With that type of tracking one day you’ll be a Supreme Court Justice!”
Given the amount of political reference/underpinning/agreement/disagreement
required to understand this statement, is this something best left for
elsewhere?
With abandon,
Patrick
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I'll chime in regarding my mileage tracking...I use a combo of gaiagps and
google maps for route planning if its just a "bumbling around" ride or my
regular commute (no need to record those). However, I'll use a garmin watch
when I'm training to get a better idea of distance, pace, grades, etc.
I had a similar experience with the C17: I tried it on my Appaloosa with
Albatross and it was only ok for short distances. I put the C17 on a
Roadini with drops and it's excellent there. I now have a B17 Standard on
the Appaloosa.
I saw Will's statement on the carved saddle and, though I
I also prefer the slotted Cambium. It has more flex. The non-slotted C17
felt like a Brooks Professional; the stiff top keeps its "dome" shape.
Whereas the slotted C17 flexes under my sitbones a little and feels more
like a B17. Not as comfy as a broken-in B17, but more like a fresh one
(which
Congrats. I'm on the bottom end of the sizing on my 51cm Roadini and I too
don't like to be too stretched out.
After lots of experimentation, I ended up with Nitto Noodles and a very
short 50mm stem. (I started at 80mm and went shorter by 10mm increments. As
others have noted on the board, I
I had/have the same experience with the crotch on every pair of pants and
shorts getting torn up. I ended up putting a saddle cover on it (the
Aardvark from rivbike.com, which I bought to disguise it in NYC) which
helps tremendously. I hate not seeing it though! It's a beautiful saddle. I
had the
I have a C17S (short nosed version) my wife didn’t care for but I found felt
great on my singlespeed for most rides. When I tried more upright bars during
some bar swaps it no longer felt as good with the posture change so I went with
another, wider saddle. Since then I’ve traded other items
Been thinking about going with wider tires on my Ram. I have Pasela 32’s on
there now but I know it will fit 38’s. Question is, will it fit THESE 38’s?
Anyone have experience putting these on their Ram?
- Mike
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Todd in NYC asked if the 56cm 650b Atlantis I rode had a light affixed with
pink newbaums
It did not. It had no light at all. It did have Choco bars and a C17 saddle.
173mm triple cranks and Deore v-brakes
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Those have relatively long bodies. I would look into the VO bars. Mainly so I
can vicariously experience them.
-J
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Hi Daniel,
My first reaction to this post was “we can attach videos?”, I tried to watch,
but can’t seem to.
I love my Roadini and have been riding it a lot lately. I’ve been doing shorter
rides in the cold with lots of climbing to stay warm. The Roadini climbs so
well with its light and
On 12/19/18 6:27 PM, Evan E. wrote:
I've found, on my commuter bike, that the front fender (SKS Commuter)
is too short because it doesn't reach forward quite far enough to
cover the top, or apex, of the tire. Because of this shortfall, I can
coast down a hill on wet pavement and watch a
I've found, on my commuter bike, that the front fender (SKS Commuter) is
too short because it doesn't reach forward quite far enough to cover the
top, or apex, of the tire. Because of this shortfall, I can coast down a
hill on wet pavement and watch a stream of water leap off the front tire
Another sure fire way to improve your mood is to go and do something nice for
someone else for no reason. It will make both your feel good.
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Mike's comment on considering all factors is good. I have had no trouble with
my 556 (Black factory pads) or Silver brand (salmon kool stops) on Velocity
Synergy rims. These are wider than many people use. My most recent bike came
with centerpull braze ons so I am using a Mafac and centerpull
I have been having this problem of pads eating through the tire wall as well on
my Cheviot, with Paul's, adjusted as low as possible... it's incredibly
frustrating.
I thought it was the fork somehow changing but now you're making me think it's
the new rim I have (H + Son)
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Calendar. A paper calendar with enough room on each date to write a few
words including total miles, type of ride (trail, gravel, paved, etc) which
bike, a word or two about weather/surface conditions and how I felt, and
any noteworthy experiences or encounters. At the end of the year I tot
I recovered from a leg injury using my (then) bike and became absorbed and
got into the business. I rode a series of flat bar, drop bar, and odd bar
(Bridgestone) bikes over the time. In my life's next stage, in my late
thirties, I agreed to join a trio of folks riding across the country in
I'm looking for a nitto hi riser for an experiment. On my Quickbeam I have sim
works get around bars on a 10 cm tallux stem. I feel a little hunched over
because of the drop of the tallux and want to get up higher. I am concerned
about the 13.5 cm reach of the hi riser though, hence the
So I finally got a Roadini frameset! I have most everything I will need
for the build except for a stem and bars. I would love some
recommendations from you "Roadies" on bars and a stem. I went with a 61 on
the Roadini even though I am at the bottom end of sizing and I don't want
to be very
thanks Alex - sounds perfect!
> On Dec 18, 2018, at 7:07 PM, tc wrote:
>
> Win-Win-Win Thank you Alex!
>
> Tom
>
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>
With that type of tracking one day you’ll be a Supreme Court Justice!
-J
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Does a shellacked Cambium rub off on clothing?
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To post to
B17: 176mm wide
C17: 162mm (14mm narrower)
C19: 184mm (8mm wider)
The C19 width is closer to the B17 than the C17. I ride one on upright and more
aggressive bikes. No complaints. It is a bit shorter in the nose, which is a
bonus in my book.
I ride it in all weather although it’s not an “all
I just use a Garmin GPS and have a mount for it on each bike. I upload the
rides to Garmin Connect and on the Connect website I can see weekly and
monthly distances. If you don't want any of the mapping capabilities they
sell a fairly cheap unit that just functions as a bike computer (Garmin
Tim, I have both c17 with and w/o carve. Carve is way more squishy. I have a
spare carve you can demo. One thing that is not mentioned too often is how long
the c17 is. This gives a long sweet spot to slide fore aft, which compliments
handlebars with long fore aft like albatross. But to make it
I have a 51cm. I'm 5'8 with a longish torso, towards the taller end for
that frame size. Unsure how helpful my experience on a much smaller frame
will be.
I went with a 90mm technomic deluxe stem and nitto "randoneur" handlebars.
I felt really stretched out on my first ride. So stretched
I have a 61 Roadini, and am at the bottom of the PBH for it as well. I started
with a Nitto 110mm, and realized after a few brevets and long rides that I
didn't like being so stretched out, and switched to 70mm Nitto Pearl. Noodles
all the way.
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I think we can all agree that the calendar was amazing regardless of political
preference or association. What type of amazing is up to you!
-J
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I have those bars! Not on my Riv, but another bike. I love them, Very comfy. I
ride them in the drops and on the hoods, mostly. The tops are thick and
somewhat flat on top, also a very comfy position. They are good for me because
I move around a lot, and the shallow drops, with their slight
The C17 is too wide for me, even on upright bikes. I use one for a couple
years on my comutter but it caused some pain on my inner thighs on rides
over 20 miles. I now use the C15 on two of my most-ridden bikes and
rally like it. One slotted and one standard. I agree that the carved
I ride the c19 on my Cheviot, done a century and some other long rides on it,
including off road and aggressive riding. I have boscos so I'm pretty upright
but it really feels fantastic and not too wide. I've had two stolen, so sadly
I'm going to stop buying new ones.
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The Noodles have a lot more reach and drop compare to something like a
Cowbell. I'd suggest setting up the bar so you can use the drops
comfortably. Because of that long flat section on the tops, I think the
Noodles work good with a smaller lever (like the Tiagra one Riv sells).
Otherwise,
Also, the new all weather version has a tacky feeling that sticks to your pants
, the original canvas top is more slippery , though not as slippery as a
leather saddle. But you could shellack one for max slippery-ness.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/Brl1nrWlnBC/
There's still time for that last minute gift to yourself...but why hasn't
Grant informed us of this Pine Tar & Bees Wax elixir for leather...I'm
going to see how it works on the old work boots...wood cutting season is on
us and my black beast is eating
I can’t compare the MIT Atlantis to original Atlantis but can compare the 58
Toyo Atlantis to 55 Joe Appaloosa. From my understanding the Joe Appaloosa is a
700c version of the MIT Atlantis.
The JA’s long chain stays make a real difference and add a ride quality that is
hard to describe. The
I suspect that what brakes to see using will be part the deciding factor.
Centerpulls typically help maximize clearance at the crown and bridge as
compared to dual pivot sidepulls, but they're not all the same. How much space
do you have between the top of your 32mm tires and the brake?
Eamon
Steve P asked why I did things my way instead of his way.
I decided to cut the fender off because I decided the front fender was too long
for my use on this bike. If I decided to leave the fender too long for my
liking on this bike, I would have run another stay.
Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito Ca
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