[RBW] Re: Hunqs. How do I know what year mine is?

[Chris L]

I would be curious, as well.  My Hunqapillar is from the very first batch 
and I'm not even sure what year that was.  2011?  Taiwan?  I've heard of 
Toyo and Wisconsin Hunqapillars but I'm assuming that first batch was from 
Taiwan.

I have four different Hunqapillar brochures, one of which specifies the 
brand and number of the main tubes, but I have no idea if that brochure 
applies to mine or not.  

The serial number format is RIV"P"XXX.  I'm not sure the "P" is actually a 
"P".  The paint is pretty heavy in that spot.  

What color is your Hunqapillar?  Mine is gray and orange.  
On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 11:01:27 PM UTC-5 Nikko in Oakland wrote:

> Hey y’all,
>
> Just out of curiosity... How do I know what year and location my Hunq was 
> manufactured in? Any particular details I should look at? Is there a Hunq 
> manufacturing timeline somewhere? 
>
> Nikko in Oakland 

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[RBW] Hunqs. How do I know what year mine is?

[Nikko Mendoza]

Hey y’all,

Just out of curiosity... How do I know what year and location my Hunq was 
manufactured in? Any particular details I should look at? Is there a Hunq 
manufacturing timeline somewhere? 

Nikko in Oakland 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Increasing Spring Tension - Rear Derailleur

[Martin Alvarez]

I've got an old Atlantis w crazy chain slap.  I can't look at a stick on 
the road without the chain slapping around.  The gears are always slipping 
on the rear as well.  Drives me nuts.

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 7:16:26 PM UTC-5 KenP wrote:

> With the clutch on, shifting the chain is tight moving onto the big front 
> chainring of 52 while the rear is in certain positions, plus, to remove the 
> wheel the clutch needs to be turned off anyhow, so I just left it off.  
> Next ride I'll test it again. The largest practical rear is 28 on my 
> setup.  I tried 30 but the chain  when long enough to go big-big is too 
> loose small-small.   It took a long time to figure out to  grind away some 
> of the front derailleur cage and bend it down some to shift the front 
> reliably. It's an IRD one specifically designed for the size chainrings 
> installed.   I like your idea of tightening the spring on the  
> rear  derailleur now that there is the old Shimano one to experiment with.  
> Thanks for asking.
>
> On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 2:33 PM Matthew P  wrote:
>
>> Hi Ken,
>> I'm curious. Why do you leave the clutch de-activated? Are there 
>> downsides to using the clutch?
>> Thanks
>> -Matthew
>>
>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 4:36:27 PM UTC-7 KenP wrote:
>>
>>> I changed my derailler to one of the newer Shimano shadow; it has a 
>>> clutch switch, but I leave said switch off and it still provides more wrap 
>>> and tension than my older derrailler.   It's not rapid rise thouigh.  I'm 
>>> running 30 34 52 in front and 11-28 in back. 9 speed.
>>> KenP
>>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 8:05:15 AM UTC-4 J Schwartz wrote:
>>>
 Greetings
 I have a couple of older long cage Deore LX, 9-speed Rapid Rise rear 
 derailleurs in great shape on 2 bikes.

 RD-M580 SGS

 Given the longer chainstays and hence longer chain on my Appa, I'm 
 thinking it may be advisable to try to increase the spring tension on one 
 of them.

 I take the bike off-road a lot and there's a lot of slap.  I could 
 change up components but I want to try this first.

 It's my understanding the spring tension can be increased by placing 
 the spring end into a different hole in the derailleur cage.

 However, from my limited internet research on this, it appears that 
 this particular derailleur may only provide 1 hole and therefore no 
 adjustability.

 There's not a lot of info on the Shimano site for this mech.

 So, I'm coming to the group before taking the derailleur apart.

 Does anyone know if that particular derailleur allows spring tension to 
 be increased?

 Thank you
 J Schwartz

>>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Free: NOS unused replacement water bottle tops.

[Patrick Moore]

I think I bought these from Rivendell decades ago. Never used; dirt is from
storage.

I'll pay postage, you be patient. CONUS only. Please respond off list:
bertin...@gmail.com

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum



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---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: Race Face Chester flat (spiked) pedals, < 40 miles, $45 shipped CONUS

[Patrick Moore]

Update: I am not looking for the M324 or A530, just the EH5000 or a nice
pair of old mtb or some other large and grippy clip/strap pedal.

On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 3:55 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Sealed bearings, I was told, and rebuildable, not bushings on the outside.
> Ridden 30 miles at most, long enough to tell me that I need a retention
> option.
>
> Open to trade for Shimano PD EH500s, with appropriate adjustments.
>
> Open to discussing trade for clip and strap pedals of similar value and
> condition with wide platforms. Not GR-9, not Sylvan touring, not Urban --
> don't like 'em. Willing to discuss cash adjustments for different trade
> values. Don't need clips or straps.
>
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: Increasing Spring Tension - Rear Derailleur

[Kenneth Peyton]

With the clutch on, shifting the chain is tight moving onto the big front
chainring of 52 while the rear is in certain positions, plus, to remove the
wheel the clutch needs to be turned off anyhow, so I just left it off.
Next ride I'll test it again. The largest practical rear is 28 on my
setup.  I tried 30 but the chain  when long enough to go big-big is too
loose small-small.   It took a long time to figure out to  grind away some
of the front derailleur cage and bend it down some to shift the front
reliably. It's an IRD one specifically designed for the size chainrings
installed.   I like your idea of tightening the spring on the
rear  derailleur now that there is the old Shimano one to experiment with.
Thanks for asking.

On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 2:33 PM Matthew P 
wrote:

> Hi Ken,
> I'm curious. Why do you leave the clutch de-activated? Are there downsides
> to using the clutch?
> Thanks
> -Matthew
>
> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 4:36:27 PM UTC-7 KenP wrote:
>
>> I changed my derailler to one of the newer Shimano shadow; it has a
>> clutch switch, but I leave said switch off and it still provides more wrap
>> and tension than my older derrailler.   It's not rapid rise thouigh.  I'm
>> running 30 34 52 in front and 11-28 in back. 9 speed.
>> KenP
>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 8:05:15 AM UTC-4 J Schwartz wrote:
>>
>>> Greetings
>>> I have a couple of older long cage Deore LX, 9-speed Rapid Rise rear
>>> derailleurs in great shape on 2 bikes.
>>>
>>> RD-M580 SGS
>>>
>>> Given the longer chainstays and hence longer chain on my Appa, I'm
>>> thinking it may be advisable to try to increase the spring tension on one
>>> of them.
>>>
>>> I take the bike off-road a lot and there's a lot of slap.  I could
>>> change up components but I want to try this first.
>>>
>>> It's my understanding the spring tension can be increased by placing the
>>> spring end into a different hole in the derailleur cage.
>>>
>>> However, from my limited internet research on this, it appears that this
>>> particular derailleur may only provide 1 hole and therefore no
>>> adjustability.
>>>
>>> There's not a lot of info on the Shimano site for this mech.
>>>
>>> So, I'm coming to the group before taking the derailleur apart.
>>>
>>> Does anyone know if that particular derailleur allows spring tension to
>>> be increased?
>>>
>>> Thank you
>>> J Schwartz
>>>
>> --
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> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Hub Area Rack (HAR) Bag Information Request.

[Philip Barrett]

Looks like some beautiful work there. You'll keep us all posted here, yes?

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 4:59:32 PM UTC-5 David B wrote:

> After waiting for what seemed like a very long time, the Hub Area racks 
> were restocked a while back and luckily I snagged one out of what must've 
> been a small batch that were available as they sold out within a day.
>
> My request is about the bags that originally accompanied this rack. First 
> off, I'm a hobby bag maker, so I'll be making my own bags. I am not 
> interested in buying the Sackville bags.
> My request is more about the original size of these bags so I'm sticking 
> to a similarly sized bag, as Rivendell had designed the rack for.
> I know the bags have a neat pocket that slides into the bottom of the rack 
> to secure it. 
>
> I am wondering if someone might point me to detailed photos, or perhaps 
> somewhere that has a little info. Even better if someone has the bags and 
> would be able to measure the dimensions and maybe send a photo or two.
>
> Please note that I would not be making this request if Rivendell were 
> still making and selling these, but it seems like these won't be made 
> again. I also have no intention of selling bags for this rack either - just 
> making a pair for my own use. They'll be going on this bike: 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CMNYBW9lbWk/
>
> Thanks,
> David
> River Grove, IL
>

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[RBW] Re: Race Face Chester flat (spiked) pedals, < 40 miles, $45 shipped CONUS

[Patrick Moore]

Pedals shipped CONUS: $45 *net*, please.

On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 3:55 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Sealed bearings, I was told, and rebuildable, not bushings on the outside.
> Ridden 30 miles at most, long enough to tell me that I need a retention
> option.
>
> Open to trade for Shimano PD EH500s, with appropriate adjustments.
>
> Open to discussing trade for clip and strap pedals of similar value and
> condition with wide platforms. Not GR-9, not Sylvan touring, not Urban --
> don't like 'em. Willing to discuss cash adjustments for different trade
> values. Don't need clips or straps.
>
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Hub Area Rack (HAR) Bag Information Request.

[David B]

After waiting for what seemed like a very long time, the Hub Area racks 
were restocked a while back and luckily I snagged one out of what must've 
been a small batch that were available as they sold out within a day.

My request is about the bags that originally accompanied this rack. First 
off, I'm a hobby bag maker, so I'll be making my own bags. I am not 
interested in buying the Sackville bags.
My request is more about the original size of these bags so I'm sticking to 
a similarly sized bag, as Rivendell had designed the rack for.
I know the bags have a neat pocket that slides into the bottom of the rack 
to secure it. 

I am wondering if someone might point me to detailed photos, or perhaps 
somewhere that has a little info. Even better if someone has the bags and 
would be able to measure the dimensions and maybe send a photo or two.

Please note that I would not be making this request if Rivendell were still 
making and selling these, but it seems like these won't be made again. I 
also have no intention of selling bags for this rack either - just making a 
pair for my own use. They'll be going on this 
bike: https://www.instagram.com/p/CMNYBW9lbWk/

Thanks,
David
River Grove, IL

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[RBW] FS: Race Face Chester flat (spiked) pedals, < 40 miles, $45 shipped CONUS

[Patrick Moore]

Sealed bearings, I was told, and rebuildable, not bushings on the outside.
Ridden 30 miles at most, long enough to tell me that I need a retention
option.

Open to trade for Shimano PD EH500s, with appropriate adjustments.

Open to discussing trade for clip and strap pedals of similar value and
condition with wide platforms. Not GR-9, not Sylvan touring, not Urban --
don't like 'em. Willing to discuss cash adjustments for different trade
values. Don't need clips or straps.


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: Increasing Spring Tension - Rear Derailleur

[J Schwartz]

So according to the drawing , *if* there's a 2nd hole for greater tension , 
it will be in the Outer Cage Assembly (part 10) ...which would allow the 
cage tension spring (part 9) to be wound up more.

random photo from Park Tool website:
[image: der109.jpg]

I've heard, but not confirmed, that this derailleur doesn't have that 2nd 
hole.

I studied electrical engineering rather than mechanical, so naturally I 
don't really feel like taking the derailleur apart to find out.


Regarding Jim's suggestion on replacing the spring with one from a more 
off-road specific derailleur ...
I assume that Part 9 is the same spring to replace?
Should I look for an XT or XTR spring from that particular era , 9 speed, 
etc?

Thanks


On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 5:37:11 PM UTC-4 aeroperf wrote:

> Just so we know what we're talking about, here is the exploded view.
> https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-RD-M580-2367.pdf
> There is a spring that runs the body (2), and a spring that tensions the 
> cage (9).
> As a Mechanical Engineer, if I had two of these, I'd take one apart just 
> on general principle.  :-)
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Increasing Spring Tension - Rear Derailleur

[aeroperf]

Just so we know what we're talking about, here is the exploded view.
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-RD-M580-2367.pdf
There is a spring that runs the body (2), and a spring that tensions the 
cage (9).
As a Mechanical Engineer, if I had two of these, I'd take one apart just on 
general principle.  :-)

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[RBW] Re: Increasing Spring Tension - Rear Derailleur

[J Schwartz]

Jim
That's a great suggestion ...I didn't even know that was a possibility 
I'll look into the stronger springs 
Jason

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 2:54:17 PM UTC-4 Jim M. wrote:

> I would suggest replacing the spring with from an XT or XTR. You can get a 
> new spring for $5 or so.
>
> When I had too much slap and occasional thrown chain from an LX (which 
> worked fine otherwise), I switched to an XT  derailer and the problems 
> disappeared. I assume it's mostly the chain tension that helps.
>
> jim m
> walnut creek, ca
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 11:33:18 AM UTC-7 Matthew P wrote:
>
>> Hi Ken,
>> I'm curious. Why do you leave the clutch de-activated? Are there 
>> downsides to using the clutch?
>> Thanks
>> -Matthew
>>
>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 4:36:27 PM UTC-7 KenP wrote:
>>
>>> I changed my derailler to one of the newer Shimano shadow; it has a 
>>> clutch switch, but I leave said switch off and it still provides more wrap 
>>> and tension than my older derrailler.   It's not rapid rise thouigh.  I'm 
>>> running 30 34 52 in front and 11-28 in back. 9 speed.
>>> KenP
>>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 8:05:15 AM UTC-4 J Schwartz wrote:
>>>
 Greetings
 I have a couple of older long cage Deore LX, 9-speed Rapid Rise rear 
 derailleurs in great shape on 2 bikes.

 RD-M580 SGS

 Given the longer chainstays and hence longer chain on my Appa, I'm 
 thinking it may be advisable to try to increase the spring tension on one 
 of them.

 I take the bike off-road a lot and there's a lot of slap.  I could 
 change up components but I want to try this first.

 It's my understanding the spring tension can be increased by placing 
 the spring end into a different hole in the derailleur cage.

 However, from my limited internet research on this, it appears that 
 this particular derailleur may only provide 1 hole and therefore no 
 adjustability.

 There's not a lot of info on the Shimano site for this mech.

 So, I'm coming to the group before taking the derailleur apart.

 Does anyone know if that particular derailleur allows spring tension to 
 be increased?

 Thank you
 J Schwartz

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Clem H sizing, availability

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

Thanks Andrew! They're rusting pretty good, even after a clear coat of 
Penetrol, but strong and regularly carrying 70lb grocery loads on the lower 
front.
And Coal Bee Rye Anne, there's 12 in the world. I thought there was 6 and I 
might've spread that rumor, but a recent post of Will's cleared it up. And 
thanks to Ryan, I've got 2 (A SIXTH OF THE WORLDS SUPPLY) and I can 
sleep at night because of it. I got run down by an illegal turner that left 
me flustered and mostly fearful for the fate of the frame, which was fine, 
but it put the fear in me.
-Kai
On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 8:48:02 PM UTC-4 Andrew Letton wrote:

> Kai- 
> That is some truly glorious rack and basket work on your Bubbe! Bravo!
> Is it new (hence no rust) or does it have some sort of clearcoat on it?
> cheers,
> Andrew in Sydney
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 10:38:59 AM UTC+10 Abcyclehank wrote:
>
>> I heard some people like the jumbo mountain mixte Rosco so much they have 
>> more than one in their fleet 樂   .
>> Wish I had been that smart...
>>
>> Ryan Hankinson
>> West Michigan
>>
>> On Friday, April 2, 2021 at 1:29:55 PM UTC-4 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Here's the answer to everything- search the world for one of these (the 
>>> precious, the Rosco Bubbe) and be forever happy- 
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/5UqTJPoisD1FiHJc9  
>>> Doesn't look as steppy throughy as the Clem L, but still gives some 
>>> room, and (risking offense to my fellow Clem 65 owners, sorry folks) rides 
>>> better than the Clems.
>>> -Kai
>>>
>>> On Friday, April 2, 2021 at 11:15:26 AM UTC-4 Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>>>
 I am another 65cm H owner... with approx 97-ish pbh, 6'5" height.  My 
 seatpost and bar height are extended nearly the same as in Julian's pic 
 except I'm using a vintage B72 saddle which is not as tall has his sprung 
 saddle (flyer/conquest?) which likely accounts for some overall saddle 
 height difference I expect we'd have.

 Sounds like you certainly fall between sizes of 59 and 65H... I forget 
 the specific min/max but recall I was right near the minimum recommended 
 pbh for the 65H.  I almost went with a 59 with the initial Clem release 
 (and was really tempted when the first 59 prototype became a webspecial) 
 but hesitated having always been stuck with too small off the shelf bikes 
 and knew I wanted a more upright and comfortable sized bike for my casual 
 local riding (mixed pavement/gravel/multiuse trails.)  I have very little 
 standover clearance with the 65 but once I'm in the saddle I'm perfectly 
 content and couldn't imagine wanting to go smaller.  I've swapped from 
 55cm 
 Bosco to Jones Loop(660mm 2.5 Riser) to ChocoMoose like Julian shows and 
 now have a regular Bullmoose installed. However, if I did a little more 
 rough stuff or off-road riding I think I'd actually prefer a 59cm for 
 slightly easier mounting/dismounting and a more aggressive bar position 
 using my Jones or Bullmoose bars. 

 I also thought it was mentioned they'd at least never do the 65cm H 
 again but don't recall where/when specifically.

 Best,
 Brian Cole
 Lawrence NJ



 On Friday, April 2, 2021 at 7:34:46 AM UTC-4 weste...@gmail.com wrote:

> I have a 101 pbh and ride a 65 Clem (pic attached).  I really like it, 
> but if my pbh were 5-6 cm smaller I think it would be an issue -- esp. if 
> I 
> was not using it primarily as a town bike as you see it set up here. 
>
> I think the 65 is history. 
>
> I'm with Kai -- get the L.   I've been seriously tempted to do so 
> myself. It is also a unicorn of sorts
>
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL 
>
> On Thursday, April 1, 2021 at 2:28:41 PM UTC-5 Kevin wrote:
>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> I am semi in the market for a Clem H and am looking for some first 
>> person thoughts on fit. I worry I am in between the 59 and the massive 
>> 65. 
>> Can anybody who has ridden either or both of those chime in with their 
>> measurements and how the bikes felt? I think the proper solution to this 
>> problem is to just get the 64 L but I am just not sympatico with the 
>> aesthetics there.
>>
>> I'm about a 95-96 PBH and ride a 62 Sam pretty comfortably with 
>> drops, would prefer more reach every time I've set it up with flats.
>>
>> Also, the bike seems to have been excised from the models section of 
>> Riv's site. Anyone know if they are planning on only offering the step 
>> through model moving forward?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailleurs / Derailers / Whatever

[Patrick Moore]

I had to cut off the stop only because I perversely insisted on using an 8
or 9 speed-era road front der with a much later and 2-piece mountain bike
triple.

Without the stop, the derailleur will kick the chain over the bash guard
and off the crank entirely; the reason is that the derailleur has to be
positioned high enough (*just* high enough) for the outer cage to clear the
bash guard, otherwise it won't move outward enough to shift the chain onto
the "middle" ring. Note that my bash guard is the equivalent of a 44 t
ring, IIRC; ie, not much bigger that the 42 now in "middle" position.

The matching curves is purely fortuitous.

On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 12:31 PM Matthew P 
wrote:

> Patrick that looks great.
> Nice coupling of the two arcs of the toothless outer ring/guard and the fd
> cage.
> Did you really have to hack off the stop, as in, backing out or removing
> altogether the limit screw wasn't enough? I believe you regardless.
>
> I'm slowly grasping a few things:
> 1. the fd has to clear the toothless outer ring, which probably places it
> a little high with respect to the outermost ring that has teeth
>   1.a. when people say "mount the FD high" is it high with respect to
> that ring (middle in the triple) or high wrt the toothless outer (aka
> really high for the middle ring)?
> 2. I bet that guard/toothless-ring also works great as a chain stop.
> pretty hard to throw the chain off your biggest ring when you have one of
> those, no?
> But if the chain never comes off I don't get to do my current favorite
> bike trick: put the chain back on just using the fd (and pedalling, of
> course)
>
> - Matthew
> "I passed on the bash guard triple but am liking them more" and
> "i can always throw it off the inner ring for fun" and
> "but I can barely get the chain there in the first place right now" and
> "would like to see this ugly-functional fd" and
> "doesn't yet comprehend long (road?) vs. short (mtb?) fd's"
> P

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleurs / Derailers / Whatever

[Joe Bernard]

I'm just talking about derailers, mate. Or derailleurs, your choice. 


On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:59:09 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> Oh man, when you said "mount it high" I tried to, but sort of lost 
> interest half way through the project & called out for pizza.
>
>
>
> I'll be here all week, try the veal.
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 2:55:35 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> When people (me) say "mount it high", it means high over the small pant 
>> guard which would be a bigger chainring if that triple crank still had that 
>> ring. But it seems to matter a lot which fd you use because they don't all 
>> need that trick. Here's a pic I stole from Leah's (Bicycle Belle Ding Ding) 
>> Instagram after remembering she uses the Silver 24-38-guard crank setup on 
>> her (extremely rad) Platy. I don't know what derailer that is but it's 
>> sitting right over the guard with barely a gap and still clears the 
>> chainstay. Buy whatever is on her bike! 
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 11:31:20 AM UTC-7 Matthew P wrote:
>>
>>> Patrick that looks great. 
>>> Nice coupling of the two arcs of the toothless outer ring/guard and the 
>>> fd cage.
>>> Did you really have to hack off the stop, as in, backing out or removing 
>>> altogether the limit screw wasn't enough? I believe you regardless.
>>>
>>> I'm slowly grasping a few things:
>>> 1. the fd has to clear the toothless outer ring, which probably places 
>>> it a little high with respect to the outermost ring that has teeth
>>>   1.a. when people say "mount the FD high" is it high with respect 
>>> to that ring (middle in the triple) or high wrt the toothless outer (aka 
>>> really high for the middle ring)?
>>> 2. I bet that guard/toothless-ring also works great as a chain stop. 
>>> pretty hard to throw the chain off your biggest ring when you have one of 
>>> those, no?
>>> But if the chain never comes off I don't get to do my current favorite 
>>> bike trick: put the chain back on just using the fd (and pedalling, of 
>>> course)
>>>
>>> - Matthew 
>>> "I passed on the bash guard triple but am liking them more" and 
>>> "i can always throw it off the inner ring for fun" and 
>>> "but I can barely get the chain there in the first place right now" and
>>> "would like to see this ugly-functional fd" and
>>> "doesn't yet comprehend long (road?) vs. short (mtb?) fd's"
>>> P
>>> in San Diego / Kumeyaay Land
>>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 1:54:22 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 Yes, or as Patrick mentioned you can use any old (and cheap) Shimano 
 mtb triple. The 24-38 Silver cranks are a triple with the big ring 
 replaced 
 by a smaller pant guard; if you mount the derailer in its normal position 
 the cage contours will hit the middle and granny rings in the right spot. 
 The only "problem" is the big gap over the pant guard looks a little 
 funky. 

 Joe "funky is good" Bernard

 On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 9:01:43 AM UTC-7 Tom Wyland wrote:

> I had the same question about the front derailleur and the silver 
> low-high 38-24 crank.  It's my first build with a FD.  The gist is to get 
> a 
> road double and mess around until it works?  I have no intention of 
> spending $80 if a cheap one will work.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: A Cyclist on the English Landscape

[David Person]

Thanks for the link, Eric.

http://www.theartoftheride.com/
On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 7:45:04 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> A few more...
>
> [image: IMG_1690.JPG]
> [image: IMG_20181204_111813.jpg]
> [image: L1020188.JPG]
> [image: IMG_1543920215272.jpg]
> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 9:43:58 PM UTC-5 Philip Barrett wrote:
>
>> I saw that today, my parents live about a mile from him! 
>>
>> It's an interesting part of the world blessed with the nicest climate in 
>> the UK (which is a bit like saying it's a light Rivendell). But unlike 
>> other South Coast towns with excellent rail links to London whose 
>> popularity and property values have skyrocketed, poor Hastings is served by 
>> an old, slow & unreliable rail service which eliminates all but the 
>> hardiest commuter from the area. Left over from it's heyday as THE place to 
>> see & be seen are huge Victorian piles, many of which have been broken up 
>> into small apartments and are used for social housing. Not a bad place to 
>> live on the dole, there's beaches and the weather is perfectly tolerable 
>> but obviously the downside to this is the same that can be seen in places 
>> like San Francisco or Portland.
>>
>> However, surrounding Hastings & St. Leonards are some of the most 
>> exclusive retirement towns, Bexhill is one that he mentioned, 8 miles down 
>> the road and and incredibly pricey. Eastbourne is the next major town West 
>> with a similar makeup & if you head East you get to the ancient fishing 
>> port of Rye, an incredibly picturesque village with a tidal harbor & 
>> medieval homes.
>>
>> So in a small geographic area you have photographer's paradise. Run down 
>> Victorian and Art Deco combine with an old town dating from the 1500s and 
>> before, Tudor pubs and mystical salt marshes, beautiful beaches and a 
>> highly photogenic local fishing industry where rusty bulldozers launch 
>> gaily painted wooden boats into the surf directly from the beach. With the 
>> hard light coming from the sea or the soft misty sprays I find new subjects 
>> every time I visit.
>>
>>  For cycling, all I can say is, be prepared for hills almost of San 
>> Francisco proportions in places! Even with those, it's a very popular town 
>> and seafront for 2 wheel vehicles of both the motorized and non-motorized 
>> type and is infamous for the running Mods vs. Rockers battles fought on 
>> it's beaches in the 60s!
>>
>> [image: IMG_20181207_163841.jpg]
>> [image: IMG_20181207_163822.jpg]
>>  [image: IMG_20181206_152604.jpg]
>>
>>
>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 3:28:44 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Yankeebird: From his blog: "I have three bicycles but the one that 
>>> appears in nearly every image  is an old-school tourer custom-built for me 
>>> some years ago by Mark Reilly (now of Reilly Cycleworks 
>>> ) back when he was the master 
>>> builder for Enigma . Assisting him at the 
>>> time was Matthew Sowter, now of Saffron Frameworks 
>>> . So you could say it has a 
>>> pedigree of the best of British framebuilding."
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 4:27:20 PM UTC-4 Yankeebird wrote:
>>>
 But what's the bike?!

 On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 4:18:51 PM UTC-4 David Person wrote:

> He used to have a really nice blog called my-bicycle-and-I, that has 
> now gone the way of many cycling blogs.  He would post lots of beautiful 
> pictures of his rides in the south of England.
>
> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 11:15:47 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I couldn't believe there were so many pictures, more and more as I 
>> kept scrolling! Glad you liked it, Marty. 
>>
>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 1:15:00 PM UTC-4 Marty Gierke, 
>> Stewartstown PA wrote:
>>
>>> Now that is inspiring - especially the part about all these photos 
>>> taken within ten miles of home. Might be a challenge I am willing to 
>>> accept. 
>>>
>>> Thanks for posting the link Eric.
>>>
>>> Marty 
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 12:54:25 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Very nice series of cycling self-portraits by Roff Smith in the New 
 York Times today. 

 Part of the lovely feature series World Through a Lens. Worth 
 exploring :) 


 https://www.nytimes.com/2021/04/05/travel/sussex-bicycle-portraits.html?action=click=Editors%20Picks=Homepage

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleurs / Derailers / Whatever

[Philip Barrett]

Oh man, when you said "mount it high" I tried to, but sort of lost interest 
half way through the project & called out for pizza.



I'll be here all week, try the veal.

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 2:55:35 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> When people (me) say "mount it high", it means high over the small pant 
> guard which would be a bigger chainring if that triple crank still had that 
> ring. But it seems to matter a lot which fd you use because they don't all 
> need that trick. Here's a pic I stole from Leah's (Bicycle Belle Ding Ding) 
> Instagram after remembering she uses the Silver 24-38-guard crank setup on 
> her (extremely rad) Platy. I don't know what derailer that is but it's 
> sitting right over the guard with barely a gap and still clears the 
> chainstay. Buy whatever is on her bike! 
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 11:31:20 AM UTC-7 Matthew P wrote:
>
>> Patrick that looks great. 
>> Nice coupling of the two arcs of the toothless outer ring/guard and the 
>> fd cage.
>> Did you really have to hack off the stop, as in, backing out or removing 
>> altogether the limit screw wasn't enough? I believe you regardless.
>>
>> I'm slowly grasping a few things:
>> 1. the fd has to clear the toothless outer ring, which probably places it 
>> a little high with respect to the outermost ring that has teeth
>>   1.a. when people say "mount the FD high" is it high with respect to 
>> that ring (middle in the triple) or high wrt the toothless outer (aka 
>> really high for the middle ring)?
>> 2. I bet that guard/toothless-ring also works great as a chain stop. 
>> pretty hard to throw the chain off your biggest ring when you have one of 
>> those, no?
>> But if the chain never comes off I don't get to do my current favorite 
>> bike trick: put the chain back on just using the fd (and pedalling, of 
>> course)
>>
>> - Matthew 
>> "I passed on the bash guard triple but am liking them more" and 
>> "i can always throw it off the inner ring for fun" and 
>> "but I can barely get the chain there in the first place right now" and
>> "would like to see this ugly-functional fd" and
>> "doesn't yet comprehend long (road?) vs. short (mtb?) fd's"
>> P
>> in San Diego / Kumeyaay Land
>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 1:54:22 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Yes, or as Patrick mentioned you can use any old (and cheap) Shimano mtb 
>>> triple. The 24-38 Silver cranks are a triple with the big ring replaced by 
>>> a smaller pant guard; if you mount the derailer in its normal position the 
>>> cage contours will hit the middle and granny rings in the right spot. The 
>>> only "problem" is the big gap over the pant guard looks a little funky. 
>>>
>>> Joe "funky is good" Bernard
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 9:01:43 AM UTC-7 Tom Wyland wrote:
>>>
 I had the same question about the front derailleur and the silver 
 low-high 38-24 crank.  It's my first build with a FD.  The gist is to get 
 a 
 road double and mess around until it works?  I have no intention of 
 spending $80 if a cheap one will work.

 Tom





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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Spectrum lugged tandem frameset

[Ed Felker]

Julian,

we are still riding tandem, thanks for asking! We're primarily on mixed
surfaces these days on our Co-Motion that can take big tires.


On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 2:43 PM Julian Westerhout 
wrote:

>
> Ed, that's a spectacular bike -- and now that Spectrum has closed, a
> lugged modern tandem like this is more rare than ever -- very few builders
> will undertake that job, and those that will will justifiably charge a lot
> more that hat this one will cost someone used.
>
> Did you guys replace it with something else? Please tell me that you are
> still riding a tandem -- my wife/stoker and I both enjoy your stoker's
> Chasing Mailboxes blog -- especially the tandem content!
>
> If it were our size I'd be all over this -- it will be a treat for
> someone.
>
> GLWTS,
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:52:18 PM UTC-5 Ed Felker wrote:
>
>> We're letting go of our 2015 custom Spectrum lugged tandem frameset, with
>> some extras.
>>
>> The captain top tube is 57.5 cm effective. I'm 5"11" and I have the
>> saddle about as low as it can go at about 72.5 cm and still accommodate the
>> stoker boom. Steerer is uncut.
>>
>> My stoker is 5'8" and it was built for a stretched stoker position. It
>> can easily handle someone shorter and a bit taller.
>>
>> We set it up with drop bars, 700x32mm tires with fenders and disk brakes.
>> It's got a fast, solid feel, it reminds me of my Rambouillet.
>>
>> Other details: King headset; quick release dropouts; 145mm rear/100mm
>> front hub spacing; front and rear rack mounts. (It was not meant for loaded
>> touring, however).
>>
>> Includes stoker boom and fenders.
>>
>> See a full set of photos and the frame sizing schematic here:
>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1gJq14wBO-aJbcl4uwFv6IAtF102f8EJC
>>
>> Asking $3,650 plus actual ship or pick up in the Washington, D.C. area.
>> No dents, minimal marks. I also have wheels and the NItto 32F rack to sell,
>> please inquire if needed.
>>
>> Thanks for looking!
>> Ed Felker
>>
>>
>> --
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[RBW] Re: Increasing Spring Tension - Rear Derailleur

[Jim M.]

I would suggest replacing the spring with from an XT or XTR. You can get a 
new spring for $5 or so.

When I had too much slap and occasional thrown chain from an LX (which 
worked fine otherwise), I switched to an XT  derailer and the problems 
disappeared. I assume it's mostly the chain tension that helps.

jim m
walnut creek, ca



On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 11:33:18 AM UTC-7 Matthew P wrote:

> Hi Ken,
> I'm curious. Why do you leave the clutch de-activated? Are there downsides 
> to using the clutch?
> Thanks
> -Matthew
>
> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 4:36:27 PM UTC-7 KenP wrote:
>
>> I changed my derailler to one of the newer Shimano shadow; it has a 
>> clutch switch, but I leave said switch off and it still provides more wrap 
>> and tension than my older derrailler.   It's not rapid rise thouigh.  I'm 
>> running 30 34 52 in front and 11-28 in back. 9 speed.
>> KenP
>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 8:05:15 AM UTC-4 J Schwartz wrote:
>>
>>> Greetings
>>> I have a couple of older long cage Deore LX, 9-speed Rapid Rise rear 
>>> derailleurs in great shape on 2 bikes.
>>>
>>> RD-M580 SGS
>>>
>>> Given the longer chainstays and hence longer chain on my Appa, I'm 
>>> thinking it may be advisable to try to increase the spring tension on one 
>>> of them.
>>>
>>> I take the bike off-road a lot and there's a lot of slap.  I could 
>>> change up components but I want to try this first.
>>>
>>> It's my understanding the spring tension can be increased by placing the 
>>> spring end into a different hole in the derailleur cage.
>>>
>>> However, from my limited internet research on this, it appears that this 
>>> particular derailleur may only provide 1 hole and therefore no 
>>> adjustability.
>>>
>>> There's not a lot of info on the Shimano site for this mech.
>>>
>>> So, I'm coming to the group before taking the derailleur apart.
>>>
>>> Does anyone know if that particular derailleur allows spring tension to 
>>> be increased?
>>>
>>> Thank you
>>> J Schwartz
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Spectrum lugged tandem frameset

[Julian Westerhout]

Ed, that's a spectacular bike -- and now that Spectrum has closed, a lugged 
modern tandem like this is more rare than ever -- very few builders will 
undertake that job, and those that will will justifiably charge a lot more 
that hat this one will cost someone used. 

Did you guys replace it with something else? Please tell me that you are 
still riding a tandem -- my wife/stoker and I both enjoy your stoker's 
Chasing Mailboxes blog -- especially the tandem content! 

If it were our size I'd be all over this -- it will be a treat for someone. 

GLWTS, 

Julian Westerhout
Bloomington, IL 


On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:52:18 PM UTC-5 Ed Felker wrote:

> We're letting go of our 2015 custom Spectrum lugged tandem frameset, with 
> some extras. 
>
> The captain top tube is 57.5 cm effective. I'm 5"11" and I have the saddle 
> about as low as it can go at about 72.5 cm and still accommodate the stoker 
> boom. Steerer is uncut.
>
> My stoker is 5'8" and it was built for a stretched stoker position. It can 
> easily handle someone shorter and a bit taller. 
>
> We set it up with drop bars, 700x32mm tires with fenders and disk brakes. 
> It's got a fast, solid feel, it reminds me of my Rambouillet.  
>
> Other details: King headset; quick release dropouts; 145mm rear/100mm 
> front hub spacing; front and rear rack mounts. (It was not meant for loaded 
> touring, however).
>
> Includes stoker boom and fenders.
>
> See a full set of photos and the frame sizing schematic here: 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1gJq14wBO-aJbcl4uwFv6IAtF102f8EJC
>
> Asking $3,650 plus actual ship or pick up in the Washington, D.C. area. No 
> dents, minimal marks. I also have wheels and the NItto 32F rack to sell, 
> please inquire if needed. 
>
> Thanks for looking! 
> Ed Felker
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Increasing Spring Tension - Rear Derailleur

[Matthew P]

Hi Ken,
I'm curious. Why do you leave the clutch de-activated? Are there downsides 
to using the clutch?
Thanks
-Matthew

On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 4:36:27 PM UTC-7 KenP wrote:

> I changed my derailler to one of the newer Shimano shadow; it has a clutch 
> switch, but I leave said switch off and it still provides more wrap and 
> tension than my older derrailler.   It's not rapid rise thouigh.  I'm 
> running 30 34 52 in front and 11-28 in back. 9 speed.
> KenP
> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 8:05:15 AM UTC-4 J Schwartz wrote:
>
>> Greetings
>> I have a couple of older long cage Deore LX, 9-speed Rapid Rise rear 
>> derailleurs in great shape on 2 bikes.
>>
>> RD-M580 SGS
>>
>> Given the longer chainstays and hence longer chain on my Appa, I'm 
>> thinking it may be advisable to try to increase the spring tension on one 
>> of them.
>>
>> I take the bike off-road a lot and there's a lot of slap.  I could change 
>> up components but I want to try this first.
>>
>> It's my understanding the spring tension can be increased by placing the 
>> spring end into a different hole in the derailleur cage.
>>
>> However, from my limited internet research on this, it appears that this 
>> particular derailleur may only provide 1 hole and therefore no 
>> adjustability.
>>
>> There's not a lot of info on the Shimano site for this mech.
>>
>> So, I'm coming to the group before taking the derailleur apart.
>>
>> Does anyone know if that particular derailleur allows spring tension to 
>> be increased?
>>
>> Thank you
>> J Schwartz
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleurs / Derailers / Whatever

[Matthew P]

Patrick that looks great. 
Nice coupling of the two arcs of the toothless outer ring/guard and the fd 
cage.
Did you really have to hack off the stop, as in, backing out or removing 
altogether the limit screw wasn't enough? I believe you regardless.

I'm slowly grasping a few things:
1. the fd has to clear the toothless outer ring, which probably places it a 
little high with respect to the outermost ring that has teeth
  1.a. when people say "mount the FD high" is it high with respect to 
that ring (middle in the triple) or high wrt the toothless outer (aka 
really high for the middle ring)?
2. I bet that guard/toothless-ring also works great as a chain stop. pretty 
hard to throw the chain off your biggest ring when you have one of those, 
no?
But if the chain never comes off I don't get to do my current favorite bike 
trick: put the chain back on just using the fd (and pedalling, of course)

- Matthew 
"I passed on the bash guard triple but am liking them more" and 
"i can always throw it off the inner ring for fun" and 
"but I can barely get the chain there in the first place right now" and
"would like to see this ugly-functional fd" and
"doesn't yet comprehend long (road?) vs. short (mtb?) fd's"
P
in San Diego / Kumeyaay Land
On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 1:54:22 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Yes, or as Patrick mentioned you can use any old (and cheap) Shimano mtb 
> triple. The 24-38 Silver cranks are a triple with the big ring replaced by 
> a smaller pant guard; if you mount the derailer in its normal position the 
> cage contours will hit the middle and granny rings in the right spot. The 
> only "problem" is the big gap over the pant guard looks a little funky. 
>
> Joe "funky is good" Bernard
>
> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 9:01:43 AM UTC-7 Tom Wyland wrote:
>
>> I had the same question about the front derailleur and the silver 
>> low-high 38-24 crank.  It's my first build with a FD.  The gist is to get a 
>> road double and mess around until it works?  I have no intention of 
>> spending $80 if a cheap one will work.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: Spectrum lugged tandem frameset

[Ed Felker]

We're letting go of our 2015 custom Spectrum lugged tandem frameset, with 
some extras. 

The captain top tube is 57.5 cm effective. I'm 5"11" and I have the saddle 
about as low as it can go at about 72.5 cm and still accommodate the stoker 
boom. Steerer is uncut.

My stoker is 5'8" and it was built for a stretched stoker position. It can 
easily handle someone shorter and a bit taller. 

We set it up with drop bars, 700x32mm tires with fenders and disk brakes. 
It's got a fast, solid feel, it reminds me of my Rambouillet.  

Other details: King headset; quick release dropouts; 145mm rear/100mm front 
hub spacing; front and rear rack mounts. (It was not meant for loaded 
touring, however).

Includes stoker boom and fenders.

See a full set of photos and the frame sizing schematic here: 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1gJq14wBO-aJbcl4uwFv6IAtF102f8EJC

Asking $3,650 plus actual ship or pick up in the Washington, D.C. area. No 
dents, minimal marks. I also have wheels and the NItto 32F rack to sell, 
please inquire if needed. 

Thanks for looking! 
Ed Felker


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[RBW] Re: Clem H sizing, availability

[Jeremy Till]

I have pretty much exactly the same PBH as you and I ride a 59cm first-gen 
Clem H. However, I ride my saddle a few cm lower than the Rivendell 
recommendation--around 78.5-79cm from crank bolt to top of saddle, 
depending on crank length. I have tight hamstrings and use a mid-foot 
pedaling position with flat pedals, and this saddle height has worked well 
for me for a number of years. Here's a picture of my Clem H to give you a 
sense of seatpost and stem extension. Where the bars clamp to the stem, 
they are ~4cm above the saddle nose

https://flic.kr/p/2iaCxSi

All that being said, my understanding is that Rivendell has no intention of 
doing another run of Clem H's. I don't think they ever sold as well as the 
L models. So at this point you're probably looking for one on the used 
market.  

-Jeremy Till
Sacramento, CA

On Thursday, April 1, 2021 at 12:28:41 PM UTC-7 Kevin wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> I am semi in the market for a Clem H and am looking for some first person 
> thoughts on fit. I worry I am in between the 59 and the massive 65. Can 
> anybody who has ridden either or both of those chime in with their 
> measurements and how the bikes felt? I think the proper solution to this 
> problem is to just get the 64 L but I am just not sympatico with the 
> aesthetics there.
>
> I'm about a 95-96 PBH and ride a 62 Sam pretty comfortably with drops, 
> would prefer more reach every time I've set it up with flats.
>
> Also, the bike seems to have been excised from the models section of Riv's 
> site. Anyone know if they are planning on only offering the step through 
> model moving forward?
>
> Thanks!
>

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[RBW] Re: Racks & Baskets - weight on the front...

[Philip Barrett]

For those liking the folding rears these look interesting?

https://www.amazon.com/Bushwhacker-Omaha-Bicycle-Grocery-Accessories/dp/B00B4ZKZK0/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1=BUSHWHACKER+USA=1617729448=8-18

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 11:45:08 AM UTC-5 Jim Whorton wrote:

> Those Wald rear baskets are great--I use one for grocery shopping 
> routinely.  I have the larger version, the Wald 535 (18 inches long).  It 
> is very sturdy--no problem loading it with cans, milk cartons, etc and you 
> can strap a big bag of dog food or whatever over the top.  I have a set of 
> the Wald folding baskets too, but they are much flimsier than the 
> non-folding kind, and they rattle.
>
> It is true that these rear baskets do not match the shape of an ordinary 
> grocery bag (paper sack, or the reusable kind).  Takes a little repacking 
> at the bike rack.
>
> At one point I had this rear basket on my 59cm Clem H.  It didn't 
> work--for some reason it created a bad shudder in the fork.  But it works 
> fine on this old Peugeot.  And, getting back to the original question: on 
> this bike I always load the rear first, and only put light things in the 
> front basket.  Handling gets weird if there is much weight up front:
>
> Jim Whorton in Rochester, NY
>
> [image: IMG_1696 (1).jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 8:16:16 AM UTC-4 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Funny you should say that but I was thinking the Wald folding basket 
>> would be interesting particularly as I'm sure you could come up with an 
>> easy mount/dismount system with a trip to the local Ace Hardware. Certainly 
>> not boutique PNW custom pricing either.
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Rear-Bicycle-Basket/dp/B0012DVQVQ?th=1
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 7:08:03 AM UTC-5 E. Ricky Creek wrote:
>>
>>> I've been toying with this for a few weeks: 
>>>
>>> https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Rear-Medium-Basket-13-5X6-25X11/dp/B001EL7P34?th=1
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Racks & Baskets - weight on the front...

[Roberta]

I have two of those in black (which disappeared into my black rack and 
tires), used them for years for grocery shopping and they were fantastic.  
Always with me, but out of the way when not needed.  

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 8:16:16 AM UTC-4 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> Funny you should say that but I was thinking the Wald folding basket would 
> be interesting particularly as I'm sure you could come up with an easy 
> mount/dismount system with a trip to the local Ace Hardware. Certainly not 
> boutique PNW custom pricing either.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Rear-Bicycle-Basket/dp/B0012DVQVQ?th=1
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 7:08:03 AM UTC-5 E. Ricky Creek wrote:
>
>> I've been toying with this for a few weeks: 
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Rear-Medium-Basket-13-5X6-25X11/dp/B001EL7P34?th=1
>>
>> I see folks piling ridiculous amounts of junk on baskets and strapped to 
>> saddlebags because panniers aren't "cool" anymore. Why not start your own 
>> new style of basket pannier packing. If it takes off, I'm sure a new 
>> cottage industry of makers will sell custom Wald 520 bags to go in the 
>> baskets (thus become panniers again), available in any waxed canvas color 
>> you want. I'm joking, of course.  
>> (I'm not joking about the Wald pannier baskets on my Clem...)
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:35:40 AM UTC-5 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Unfortunately throwing money at it until I'm happy doesn't sit as well 
>>> with my inner light!
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:32:36 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>>>
 Considering gravity is at best theoretical, so are it's associated 
 calculations. So I'd say adorn the bike any way you wish, whatever the 
 "inner light" reveals. We all have an unfiltered and unquestionable 
 inherent sense of that.  
 On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:52:41 AM UTC-4 dougP wrote:

> On my Atlantis, I always have a handlebar bag.  When I use panniers, 
> the fronts are always used, and the rears only when needing to carry a 
> camping load.  After much experimentation, I've come to the conclusion 
> that 
> for me & my bike, when using 4 bags, 60% front load & 40% rear gave best 
> handling.  Others probably have different preferences.  
>
> dougP
>
> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 7:50:37 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> ...or the rear?
>>
>> Discuss.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Racks & Baskets - weight on the front...

[Bill Lindsay]

What kind of weight?

Normal riding weight:  Front
Touring s240 wieght:   Front first, overflow in back
Grocery weight:  No opinion.  I don't buy groceries on my bike
Errand weight:  Front

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 7:50:37 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> ...or the rear?
>
> Discuss.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Racks & Baskets - weight on the front...

[Shoji Takahashi]

I've thrown lots of money at this problem over the years... given this 
list, I think many others have, too.

Unfortunately, there's a lot of personal preference, variety of needs among 
different people, types of bikes, etc. Also, for me and others, there's the 
desire to experiment. I think the first set-up that I had was fine... and 
so have been the other iterations. 

What are you carrying generally? Terrain? Risk of theft? Bike? 

My first set-up was a Breezer Uptown 8, which included a rear rack with 
rat-trap. I started as a commuter and decided not to-use a backpack. I got 
the Wald 582 folding rear basket for one side and zip-tied it on. It held 
my work bag fine. I could use the rat-trap for smaller items when 
necessary. It was great. 

My current commuter is AHH. It has a Saddlesack medium and Wald 137 front 
basket. It's great. I generally put items in the saddlesack since it's big 
and protected, and AHH rides better (for me) with rear loads. Front basket 
is perfect for light items and overflow when grocery getting. 

I've been tempted to try Ron's Fabio's chest, but I know it'll be fine, as 
have been my other choices.

Choosing now, after having experience with many choices, I would go with a 
Saddlesack, particularly a Riv frame. This is based on style, function, how 
I'd mostly use it, value. If you're tall enough and don't need a rack under 
it, even better value.  

YMMV,
Good luck!
shoji
Arlington MA


On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 7:35:40 AM UTC-4 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> Unfortunately throwing money at it until I'm happy doesn't sit as well 
> with my inner light!
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:32:36 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>
>> Considering gravity is at best theoretical, so are it's associated 
>> calculations. So I'd say adorn the bike any way you wish, whatever the 
>> "inner light" reveals. We all have an unfiltered and unquestionable 
>> inherent sense of that.  
>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:52:41 AM UTC-4 dougP wrote:
>>
>>> On my Atlantis, I always have a handlebar bag.  When I use panniers, the 
>>> fronts are always used, and the rears only when needing to carry a camping 
>>> load.  After much experimentation, I've come to the conclusion that for me 
>>> & my bike, when using 4 bags, 60% front load & 40% rear gave best 
>>> handling.  Others probably have different preferences.  
>>>
>>> dougP
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 7:50:37 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 ...or the rear?

 Discuss.




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[RBW] Re: Racks & Baskets - weight on the front...

[Philip Barrett]

I have a Linus sac which is nice heavy canvas & can clip pannier-style to a 
rack or be used with a basket -

https://www.linusbike.com/products/the-sac

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 8:40:49 AM UTC-5 willms...@gmail.com wrote:

> One last consideration may be the WB Loader bag.  It's a decent price 
> point compared to something like a sugar loaf and though the pictures don't 
> show it, it has 4 velcro straps on the front and back and two clips on the 
> sides once the bag is rolled down to use for attaching it to a 137.  Just 
> got mine last week for my Hillborne and couldn't be happier.  It also has a 
> padded bottom.  See here: 
> https://www.sim.works/collections/ral/products/ral-wb-loader?variant=31467798659124
> . 
>
> Joe
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 7:16:16 AM UTC-5 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Funny you should say that but I was thinking the Wald folding basket 
>> would be interesting particularly as I'm sure you could come up with an 
>> easy mount/dismount system with a trip to the local Ace Hardware. Certainly 
>> not boutique PNW custom pricing either.
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Rear-Bicycle-Basket/dp/B0012DVQVQ?th=1
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 7:08:03 AM UTC-5 E. Ricky Creek wrote:
>>
>>> I've been toying with this for a few weeks: 
>>>
>>> https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Rear-Medium-Basket-13-5X6-25X11/dp/B001EL7P34?th=1
>>>
>>> I see folks piling ridiculous amounts of junk on baskets and strapped to 
>>> saddlebags because panniers aren't "cool" anymore. Why not start your own 
>>> new style of basket pannier packing. If it takes off, I'm sure a new 
>>> cottage industry of makers will sell custom Wald 520 bags to go in the 
>>> baskets (thus become panniers again), available in any waxed canvas color 
>>> you want. I'm joking, of course.  
>>> (I'm not joking about the Wald pannier baskets on my Clem...)
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:35:40 AM UTC-5 philipr...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Unfortunately throwing money at it until I'm happy doesn't sit as well 
 with my inner light!

 On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:32:36 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

> Considering gravity is at best theoretical, so are it's associated 
> calculations. So I'd say adorn the bike any way you wish, whatever the 
> "inner light" reveals. We all have an unfiltered and unquestionable 
> inherent sense of that.  
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:52:41 AM UTC-4 dougP wrote:
>
>> On my Atlantis, I always have a handlebar bag.  When I use panniers, 
>> the fronts are always used, and the rears only when needing to carry a 
>> camping load.  After much experimentation, I've come to the conclusion 
>> that 
>> for me & my bike, when using 4 bags, 60% front load & 40% rear gave best 
>> handling.  Others probably have different preferences.  
>>
>> dougP
>>
>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 7:50:37 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> ...or the rear?
>>>
>>> Discuss.
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Racks & Baskets - weight on the front...

[Joseph Willms]

One last consideration may be the WB Loader bag.  It's a decent price point 
compared to something like a sugar loaf and though the pictures don't show 
it, it has 4 velcro straps on the front and back and two clips on the sides 
once the bag is rolled down to use for attaching it to a 137.  Just got 
mine last week for my Hillborne and couldn't be happier.  It also has a 
padded bottom.  See 
here: 
https://www.sim.works/collections/ral/products/ral-wb-loader?variant=31467798659124.
 

Joe

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 7:16:16 AM UTC-5 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> Funny you should say that but I was thinking the Wald folding basket would 
> be interesting particularly as I'm sure you could come up with an easy 
> mount/dismount system with a trip to the local Ace Hardware. Certainly not 
> boutique PNW custom pricing either.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Rear-Bicycle-Basket/dp/B0012DVQVQ?th=1
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 7:08:03 AM UTC-5 E. Ricky Creek wrote:
>
>> I've been toying with this for a few weeks: 
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Rear-Medium-Basket-13-5X6-25X11/dp/B001EL7P34?th=1
>>
>> I see folks piling ridiculous amounts of junk on baskets and strapped to 
>> saddlebags because panniers aren't "cool" anymore. Why not start your own 
>> new style of basket pannier packing. If it takes off, I'm sure a new 
>> cottage industry of makers will sell custom Wald 520 bags to go in the 
>> baskets (thus become panniers again), available in any waxed canvas color 
>> you want. I'm joking, of course.  
>> (I'm not joking about the Wald pannier baskets on my Clem...)
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:35:40 AM UTC-5 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Unfortunately throwing money at it until I'm happy doesn't sit as well 
>>> with my inner light!
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:32:36 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>>>
 Considering gravity is at best theoretical, so are it's associated 
 calculations. So I'd say adorn the bike any way you wish, whatever the 
 "inner light" reveals. We all have an unfiltered and unquestionable 
 inherent sense of that.  
 On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:52:41 AM UTC-4 dougP wrote:

> On my Atlantis, I always have a handlebar bag.  When I use panniers, 
> the fronts are always used, and the rears only when needing to carry a 
> camping load.  After much experimentation, I've come to the conclusion 
> that 
> for me & my bike, when using 4 bags, 60% front load & 40% rear gave best 
> handling.  Others probably have different preferences.  
>
> dougP
>
> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 7:50:37 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> ...or the rear?
>>
>> Discuss.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Clem H sizing, availability

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Ha, yeah, I thought there was someone trying to hoard the few Jumbo Roscos 
that exist!  I forget the total but isn't it single digits?

I really wanted one, but went for the Jumbo 65cm Clem H presale that 
preceeded it to secure my first and only Rivendell, and missed the Jumbo 
Rosco release announcement by a longshot anyway.

On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 8:38:59 PM UTC-4 Abcyclehank wrote:

> I heard some people like the jumbo mountain mixte Rosco so much they have 
> more than one in their fleet 樂   .
> Wish I had been that smart...
>
> Ryan Hankinson
> West Michigan
>
> On Friday, April 2, 2021 at 1:29:55 PM UTC-4 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY wrote:
>
>> Here's the answer to everything- search the world for one of these (the 
>> precious, the Rosco Bubbe) and be forever happy- 
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/5UqTJPoisD1FiHJc9  
>> Doesn't look as steppy throughy as the Clem L, but still gives some room, 
>> and (risking offense to my fellow Clem 65 owners, sorry folks) rides better 
>> than the Clems.
>> -Kai
>>
>> On Friday, April 2, 2021 at 11:15:26 AM UTC-4 Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>>
>>> I am another 65cm H owner... with approx 97-ish pbh, 6'5" height.  My 
>>> seatpost and bar height are extended nearly the same as in Julian's pic 
>>> except I'm using a vintage B72 saddle which is not as tall has his sprung 
>>> saddle (flyer/conquest?) which likely accounts for some overall saddle 
>>> height difference I expect we'd have.
>>>
>>> Sounds like you certainly fall between sizes of 59 and 65H... I forget 
>>> the specific min/max but recall I was right near the minimum recommended 
>>> pbh for the 65H.  I almost went with a 59 with the initial Clem release 
>>> (and was really tempted when the first 59 prototype became a webspecial) 
>>> but hesitated having always been stuck with too small off the shelf bikes 
>>> and knew I wanted a more upright and comfortable sized bike for my casual 
>>> local riding (mixed pavement/gravel/multiuse trails.)  I have very little 
>>> standover clearance with the 65 but once I'm in the saddle I'm perfectly 
>>> content and couldn't imagine wanting to go smaller.  I've swapped from 55cm 
>>> Bosco to Jones Loop(660mm 2.5 Riser) to ChocoMoose like Julian shows and 
>>> now have a regular Bullmoose installed. However, if I did a little more 
>>> rough stuff or off-road riding I think I'd actually prefer a 59cm for 
>>> slightly easier mounting/dismounting and a more aggressive bar position 
>>> using my Jones or Bullmoose bars. 
>>>
>>> I also thought it was mentioned they'd at least never do the 65cm H 
>>> again but don't recall where/when specifically.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> Brian Cole
>>> Lawrence NJ
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, April 2, 2021 at 7:34:46 AM UTC-4 weste...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I have a 101 pbh and ride a 65 Clem (pic attached).  I really like it, 
 but if my pbh were 5-6 cm smaller I think it would be an issue -- esp. if 
 I 
 was not using it primarily as a town bike as you see it set up here. 

 I think the 65 is history. 

 I'm with Kai -- get the L.   I've been seriously tempted to do so 
 myself. It is also a unicorn of sorts


 Julian Westerhout
 Bloomington, IL 

 On Thursday, April 1, 2021 at 2:28:41 PM UTC-5 Kevin wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> I am semi in the market for a Clem H and am looking for some first 
> person thoughts on fit. I worry I am in between the 59 and the massive 
> 65. 
> Can anybody who has ridden either or both of those chime in with their 
> measurements and how the bikes felt? I think the proper solution to this 
> problem is to just get the 64 L but I am just not sympatico with the 
> aesthetics there.
>
> I'm about a 95-96 PBH and ride a 62 Sam pretty comfortably with drops, 
> would prefer more reach every time I've set it up with flats.
>
> Also, the bike seems to have been excised from the models section of 
> Riv's site. Anyone know if they are planning on only offering the step 
> through model moving forward?
>
> Thanks!
>


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[RBW] Re: Racks & Baskets - weight on the front...

[Philip Barrett]

Funny you should say that but I was thinking the Wald folding basket would 
be interesting particularly as I'm sure you could come up with an easy 
mount/dismount system with a trip to the local Ace Hardware. Certainly not 
boutique PNW custom pricing either.

https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Rear-Bicycle-Basket/dp/B0012DVQVQ?th=1

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 7:08:03 AM UTC-5 E. Ricky Creek wrote:

> I've been toying with this for a few weeks: 
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Rear-Medium-Basket-13-5X6-25X11/dp/B001EL7P34?th=1
>
> I see folks piling ridiculous amounts of junk on baskets and strapped to 
> saddlebags because panniers aren't "cool" anymore. Why not start your own 
> new style of basket pannier packing. If it takes off, I'm sure a new 
> cottage industry of makers will sell custom Wald 520 bags to go in the 
> baskets (thus become panniers again), available in any waxed canvas color 
> you want. I'm joking, of course.  
> (I'm not joking about the Wald pannier baskets on my Clem...)
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:35:40 AM UTC-5 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately throwing money at it until I'm happy doesn't sit as well 
>> with my inner light!
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:32:36 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> Considering gravity is at best theoretical, so are it's associated 
>>> calculations. So I'd say adorn the bike any way you wish, whatever the 
>>> "inner light" reveals. We all have an unfiltered and unquestionable 
>>> inherent sense of that.  
>>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:52:41 AM UTC-4 dougP wrote:
>>>
 On my Atlantis, I always have a handlebar bag.  When I use panniers, 
 the fronts are always used, and the rears only when needing to carry a 
 camping load.  After much experimentation, I've come to the conclusion 
 that 
 for me & my bike, when using 4 bags, 60% front load & 40% rear gave best 
 handling.  Others probably have different preferences.  

 dougP

 On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 7:50:37 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> ...or the rear?
>
> Discuss.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Racks & Baskets - weight on the front...

[E. Ricky Creek]

I've been toying with this for a few weeks: 
https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Rear-Medium-Basket-13-5X6-25X11/dp/B001EL7P34?th=1

I see folks piling ridiculous amounts of junk on baskets and strapped to 
saddlebags because panniers aren't "cool" anymore. Why not start your own 
new style of basket pannier packing. If it takes off, I'm sure a new 
cottage industry of makers will sell custom Wald 520 bags to go in the 
baskets (thus become panniers again), available in any waxed canvas color 
you want. I'm joking, of course.  
(I'm not joking about the Wald pannier baskets on my Clem...)

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:35:40 AM UTC-5 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> Unfortunately throwing money at it until I'm happy doesn't sit as well 
> with my inner light!
>
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:32:36 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>
>> Considering gravity is at best theoretical, so are it's associated 
>> calculations. So I'd say adorn the bike any way you wish, whatever the 
>> "inner light" reveals. We all have an unfiltered and unquestionable 
>> inherent sense of that.  
>> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:52:41 AM UTC-4 dougP wrote:
>>
>>> On my Atlantis, I always have a handlebar bag.  When I use panniers, the 
>>> fronts are always used, and the rears only when needing to carry a camping 
>>> load.  After much experimentation, I've come to the conclusion that for me 
>>> & my bike, when using 4 bags, 60% front load & 40% rear gave best 
>>> handling.  Others probably have different preferences.  
>>>
>>> dougP
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 7:50:37 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 ...or the rear?

 Discuss.




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[RBW] Re: Racks & Baskets - weight on the front...

[Philip Barrett]

Unfortunately throwing money at it until I'm happy doesn't sit as well with 
my inner light!

On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 6:32:36 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

> Considering gravity is at best theoretical, so are it's associated 
> calculations. So I'd say adorn the bike any way you wish, whatever the 
> "inner light" reveals. We all have an unfiltered and unquestionable 
> inherent sense of that.  
> On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:52:41 AM UTC-4 dougP wrote:
>
>> On my Atlantis, I always have a handlebar bag.  When I use panniers, the 
>> fronts are always used, and the rears only when needing to carry a camping 
>> load.  After much experimentation, I've come to the conclusion that for me 
>> & my bike, when using 4 bags, 60% front load & 40% rear gave best 
>> handling.  Others probably have different preferences.  
>>
>> dougP
>>
>> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 7:50:37 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> ...or the rear?
>>>
>>> Discuss.
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Racks & Baskets - weight on the front...

[Garth]

Considering gravity is at best theoretical, so are it's associated 
calculations. So I'd say adorn the bike any way you wish, whatever the 
"inner light" reveals. We all have an unfiltered and unquestionable 
inherent sense of that.  
On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:52:41 AM UTC-4 dougP wrote:

> On my Atlantis, I always have a handlebar bag.  When I use panniers, the 
> fronts are always used, and the rears only when needing to carry a camping 
> load.  After much experimentation, I've come to the conclusion that for me 
> & my bike, when using 4 bags, 60% front load & 40% rear gave best 
> handling.  Others probably have different preferences.  
>
> dougP
>
> On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 7:50:37 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> ...or the rear?
>>
>> Discuss.
>>
>>
>>

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