[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-24 Thread palincss

Quoting PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com:

 http://flickr.com/photos/t2architect/3128394163/in/set-72157610331529941/

 Gawd, that's even *pretty!


It certainly is.  And, like every other attractive threadless stem  
I've ever seen, it lacks the one major advantage commonly associated  
with threadless stems, the open front faceplate.  I wonder if that's  
not an accident.




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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

2008-12-24 Thread JoelMatthews

There is a service that makes a special bike box and ships Fedex store
to Fedex store in the lower 48.  I think they are looking at expanding
over seas but have not got the numbers to work yet.  Forget the name,
but I saw someone who used it last summer.  The boxes are very well
designed.  You do not have to take the pedals off or turn the bars.
There is room in the box for packs.

On Dec 23, 6:46 pm, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 To get your bikes around domestically, look into shipping via either Fed Ex
 or UPS ground.  Contact your motel  ask them to take delivery of your bike
  ship it so it gets there a day or 2 ahead of you.  Then when you leave you
 just re-pack your bike,  ship it home.  Usually runs around $45-50 each
 way, at least this year.  Plus you can load it up with clothes, tools, etc 
 not be as concerned about weight as if you were dealing with the airlines.
 And you don't have the hassle of getting your bike from the airport to your
 motel.  

 dougP



 -Original Message-
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

 [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris
 Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 4:25 PM
 To: RBW Owners Bunch
 Subject: [RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

 Jim,
 I wish I could bring my Bleriot, but I fear the airline prices might
 be a little high...
 We should try and have a RBW List get together...

 On Dec 22, 3:09 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
 wrote:
  Thanks all for the input. I found a bike map online that indicates a
  number of greenways and other bike trails, in addition to bike-able
  city streets, etc. The NAHB show itself is good for about 4 hours of
  entertainment for me, but the real reason I want to go is to ride my
  bike (probably Atlantis) in an unfamiliar city. Indy isn't Portland,
  but it doesn't look that bad.

  Jim

  On Dec 22, 1:31 pm, Sarah Gibson sadieja...@hotmail.com wrote:

   never ridden bikes there myself
   but this was one listmember
   or was it ibob
   anyhoos
   this is what he had to say

   damn, flying there so i won't have wheels. kind of a shame, as the
 town  empties at night with huge spread out roads- I was there for a 
 conference and yearning for a bike. It will be a blast for you all.  the
 one thing a bit troublesome with the town was the difficulty finding 
 vegetarian, but i am not terribly picky (outside of that constraint) and 
 can eat quite minimally.peace

   well behaved women rarely make history_ride yr friggin bicycle_- Hide 
   quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread John McMurry

On Dec 24, 1:06 am, Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com
wrote:
 I'm not a fan of the 7 shaped stem, and I really really don't like the
 looks of track stems. A track stem and an Albatross bar? I don't think
 so.

In all seriousness, and in no way bruskly; if you don't like 7-shaped
stems and you don't like stems with even less rise (track stems), you
must be using a riser stem...right?

And so, if you have a problem with getting the bars down low enough,
the problem isn't with the type of steertube you have: I think it's
your aesthetic choices determining how high your bars are.

That said, I find conveniences to both setups.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread Atlantean

Joel, use whatever you like. That's what I do. I am not trying to make
you use a threadless fork, after all. Lots of people have managed to
work out the aesthetics somehow. For me the most important issue is
flex, and it will not go away no matter how lovely Nitto quill stems
may be. Also, there is nothing ratty about my guest bike. It's
actually a pretty nice ride, even if the frame is 12 years old.

Steve, I explained the limitations in my previous post. Possibly not
very clearly. The Atlantis has an extra tall steer tube, accommodated
by some spacers. I am glad I did not cut the fork, because I found
handlebar bliss on my Atlantis with an old Bridgestone Moustache bar
that takes V brake levers (rare item that should not be), and a
Periscopa stem. That extra tall steer tube helps keep the flex to a
tolerable level, at least on my comfort bike. My point was that it
would have been very easy to try the lowest position afforded by a 17
degree stem without cutting anything. This is very common. To say
threadless stems are a solution in search of a problem is nonsense. I
don't care who said it. Whoever it was probably hates mountain bikes,
a common affliction among roadies.

On Dec 24, 7:24 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  That whole process can get pretty fiddly, but then so can unwrapping
  bars and removing levers in order to try a different stem. With modern
  mountain bike stems, and increasingly common road setups, it's easy to
  swap between stems.

 Fiddly and an aesthetic nightmare.  Most (all? - not sure) headset
 makers do not make stems and vice versa.  My custom Oswald with
 threadless fork has a Ti King headset.  Before I had a custom stem
 made, it had a silver Thomson stem.  King does not make Ti spacers.
 So I wound up using the Thomson spacers which did not match the
 headset.  Not a complete aesthetic nightmare, but not optimal.  It
 gets even worse if you use stems and headsets by other manufacturers
 who do not make spacers.  You wind up with three different colors in
 one of the more prominent parts of the bike.

 Not a problem if the bike is a ratty old GT.  Looks are certainly an
 issue when you fork out the big bucks for a Rivendell, Velo-Orange or
 custom steel bike.  As a result, most people who buy these bikes are
 very grateful Nitto continues to make threaded stems with modern
 alloys and to high tolerances possible with the new forging machinery.

  It's a very simple matter to swap stems on that bike, and it
  gets done often. It has air springs on each end, so at the most we
  swap out saddles, stems, pedals and adjust the air pressure and it's
  good to go. This is a very common practice.

 Seems to me you could accomplish the same just as well by adjusting a
 threaded stem up or down and simply rotating the angle of the bars to
 meet the riders' preferences.

 If you are changing the bars as well as the stem, the open face of
 most threadless stems speeds the task somewhat.  Unless the bike is
 fixed gear, however, it really is not so easy to swap bars.  Brake
 levers are going to be in different positions on the bars, meaning at
 best you are going to have extra brake cable to deal with.  If you are
 switching from Albatross to drops, you most likely will have to
 replace the brake cable as the existing cable will not be long enough,
 and, depending on the levers, may not use the same cable end.  And
 that is assuming you are using non-aero levers that do not route the
 cable under the tape.

 So again, it seems to me we are back to a tie in usefullness between
 the two.  I concur that there are many beautiful custom threadless
 stems.  As I have said multiple times here, the custom threadless
 Jonnycycles made for my Oswald is very lovely.  When it comes to off
 the shelf, however, Nitto is a very special product at a price that is
 hard to beat.  GP has had a tight relationship with Nitto since the
 Bridgestone era.  Under the circumstances, I think his decision to
 stay with threadless makes a lot of sense.

 On Dec 24, 12:06 am, Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com
 wrote:



  I'm not a fan of the 7 shaped stem, and I really really don't like the
  looks of track stems. A track stem and an Albatross bar? I don't think
  so.

  The Atlantis comes with 15mm of spacers (I think) under the top nut. I
  couild have shortened the steer tube up by that much and that might
  have lowered the Albatross bar enough, but since the stem I was using
  (an old Cinelli 13cm with a home brewed shim) was far from ideal, I
  was not willing to make such a committment for an experiment. Bike
  shop mechanics cut steer tubes of all description routinely, by the
  way. Anyway, if that same frame had come with a threadless fork, it
  would have been very easy to try the lowest postion available before
  cutting the fork. People do this all the time with mountain bike
  builds. Yes, it looks pretty funny with spacers on top of the stem,
  but once the position is 

[RBW] Re: F/S 1pr 650B Nifty Swifties

2008-12-24 Thread RodC

A good rule of thumb for tire width WRT to INSIDE Rim Width, IRW:

ROAD:

1.4 to 2/2.5 times IRW so for a rim with inside width of 17mm: Tires
of 24mm - 35/42mm or so. Brake and QR release will temper max tire
width choice for easy tire removal.

MTB

1.4-3 times IRW

The IRW of most rims will be about 4-5mm the outside width.

The width data above is consistent with recommendations given from
various sources: Peter White, Sheldon Brown, Mavic, Barnett's Manual,
and others no doubt. Look-up and validation is left as an exercise to
the reader.

So for the Hetre. IRW of Synergy rim = 17mm.

40mm/17mm = 2.35, within the range mentioned above.

I have Synergy rims and can say Hetres work fine with them.
--
Rod   *~*~*Happy Holidays*~*~*

On Dec 20, 12:53 pm, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:
 What rim width does a red balloon, err, Hetre need?  Will the Velocity 
 Synergy 650B wheel handle it?

 
 From: RodC rcer...@gmail.com

 After riding Fatty Rumpkins and Hetres, 40+ mm, I just can't see me
 riding a tire as skinny as 33m any longer. At least not on my 650B
 bikes. Once you go fat, you won't go back! :-)
 --
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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

2008-12-24 Thread BPustow
That would be _www.aircaddy.com_ (http://www.aircaddy.com)  . I used them 
this summer  and it was a very positive experience. I believed they charged me 
$99 and they  say the box will last for about 3 round trips. At that point, a 
replacement  box costs $39. 
   What's really nice is that you only need to remove the front  wheel, maybe 
the seat (if you have a small bike you maybe able to simply lower  the seat 
tube), and loosen the handle bars and turn them to lower the break  hoods.
   The bad part was that FedEx charged me $150 to ship the box  from 
Louisville, Ky to Killespell, Mt. and the same from El Paso to Kentucky. I  
found out 
you can ship the box by UPS but, since there was a Kinkos across the  street 
from the hotel in El Paso, I took the more convenient shipper and maybe  not 
the cheapest.
   It's a cardboard box but really sturdy with a lot of cross  supports so 
that the bike will not be damaged.
Bill
 
 
 
In a message dated 12/24/2008 9:29:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
joelmatth...@mac.com writes:

There is  a service that makes a special bike box and ships Fedex store
to Fedex  store in the lower 48.  

**One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0025)

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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread Atlantean

John, the stem I was using with the Albatross was an old Cinelli 7
stem, down as low as it would go. It actually looked pretty good, but
I could not get the grips level with the saddle without removing the
stock spacers and cutting the fork. Even then it might not have gotten
the job done. The combination of old Bridgestone M bar and Periscopa
stem puts the grip area at the same level as the saddle. I did try the
steel Albatross upside down, but it looked goofy and still required a
very long extension. 160mm would not have been too long. The old M bar
solved all those problems and actually works best with the Periscopa.
If a Nitto 7 type stem had been called for, then that's what would
be on there.

7 stems look fine in their natural element, but I would need them to
be raised up high with anything but an Albatross on an Atlantis, and
that looks silly to me and also just makes the whole system more
flexible. Lots of people think that setup looks great; more power to
'em! It's their bike!

On Dec 24, 7:52 am, John McMurry johnmcmu...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Dec 24, 1:06 am, Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  I'm not a fan of the 7 shaped stem, and I really really don't like the
  looks of track stems. A track stem and an Albatross bar? I don't think
  so.

 In all seriousness, and in no way bruskly; if you don't like 7-shaped
 stems and you don't like stems with even less rise (track stems), you
 must be using a riser stem...right?

 And so, if you have a problem with getting the bars down low enough,
 the problem isn't with the type of steertube you have: I think it's
 your aesthetic choices determining how high your bars are.

 That said, I find conveniences to both setups.

 John McMurry
 Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread palincss

Quoting Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com:

 Steve, I explained the limitations in my previous post. Possibly not
 very clearly. The Atlantis has an extra tall steer tube, accommodated
 by some spacers. I am glad I did not cut the fork, because I found
 handlebar bliss on my Atlantis with an old Bridgestone Moustache bar
 that takes V brake levers (rare item that should not be), and a
 Periscopa stem. That extra tall steer tube helps keep the flex to a
 tolerable level, at least on my comfort bike.

So the solution to you can't get the handlebars low enough is to use  
an upwards sloping stem with an extra long quill?

 My point was that it
 would have been very easy to try the lowest position afforded by a 17
 degree stem without cutting anything.

Almost as easy as pushing a quill stem down all the way.  That takes  
two turns of a 5mm allen key.

I'm so confused my head hurts.





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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

2008-12-24 Thread BPustow
Jim, 
   I agree in part. Taking the bike to your local bike shop to  pack works 
well. They have the boxes, protective packing material ,and the  experience to 
pack you bike and get it to your destination safely. They're going  to do it 
right because they have a relationship with you. The problem I've had,  early 
in 
my bicycling experience, is shipping the bike home. Now I'm using a  bike 
shop that doesn't know me and will probably never see me again and  depending 
on 
the person packing the bike (probably the newest kid on the  payroll) it can 
be a negative experience. In my case it was.
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 12/23/2008 10:48:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
thill@gmail.com writes:

I'd also  recommend paying a bike shop that does mail order to pack and
ship the  bike. The shop will generally provide a used box and packing
materials for  free or at a small cost, and will pack it better than
you would  yourself.

**One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

2008-12-24 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

If you don't have to turn the bars or remove the pedals, it will
necessarily be much larger than a standard bike box. I don't know the
exact size criteria, but there's usually a point where the box goes
from one size category to the next, and the price more or less
doubles. If you can pack it in a normal bike box, say 50x30x7, there's
a bit more (dis)assembly involved, but the shipping will be more
affordable. Even a little bit bigger than that will typically trigger
the OS price hike.

I did SS couplers on my Atlantis last year, and took the bike to
Portland for NAHBS 2008. It was great to have my own bike with me for
the trip. Of course, it was free to take the packed bike on the plane,
but the conversion set me back about $750. I have to use it a few more
times before I see a profit! If I go to Indianapolis in 2009, it'll be
a road-trip, and I won't have to use the couplers.

On Dec 24, 9:10 am, bpus...@aol.com wrote:
 That would be _www.aircaddy.com_(http://www.aircaddy.com)  . I used them
 this summer  and it was a very positive experience. I believed they charged me
 $99 and they  say the box will last for about 3 round trips. At that point, a
 replacement  box costs $39.
    What's really nice is that you only need to remove the front  wheel, maybe
 the seat (if you have a small bike you maybe able to simply lower  the seat
 tube), and loosen the handle bars and turn them to lower the break  hoods.
    The bad part was that FedEx charged me $150 to ship the box  from
 Louisville, Ky to Killespell, Mt. and the same from El Paso to Kentucky. I  
 found out
 you can ship the box by UPS but, since there was a Kinkos across the  street
 from the hotel in El Paso, I took the more convenient shipper and maybe  not
 the cheapest.
    It's a cardboard box but really sturdy with a lot of cross  supports so
 that the bike will not be damaged.
 Bill

 In a message dated 12/24/2008 9:29:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  

 joelmatth...@mac.com writes:

 There is  a service that makes a special bike box and ships Fedex store
 to Fedex  store in the lower 48.  

 **One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail,
 Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now.
 (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolco...)
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread palincss

Quoting Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com:


 As stated, I *did* push the Cinelli stem all the way down, but the
 Albatross was still too high. Cutting the fork *might* have gotten the
 bar low enough, but there were other issues and if it did not work,
 then I would still have a shortened steer tube. They are quite
 difficult to lengthen. :)

No kidding.  That's one of the big issues many of us have with  
threadless.  I didn't see that msg until after I'd replied.


 In the end, I used a different bar, a rare old Bridgestone bar that
 has about 2 of drop (I just measured). This is the opposite of the
 Albatross, which has rise unless you turn it over. The Bridgestone bar
 also requires far less stem extension

Yes, different handlebars require different stem extensions.  It's a  
challenge figuring out what you need ahead of time.  That's one reason  
there's so much stem exchanging going on on the lists.  It's a good  
thing you can use an albatross bar - it's one of the most  
controversial designs ever.

I've seen the Albatross mounted upside-down.  I think it looks great,  
very much like the sporting bikes pre-WWI.




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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread Atlantean

I don't mean to contribute to thread drift, but I have an Albatross on
a tandem, and I love it. That bike has a 1-1/4 threaded fork, so the
quill stem is very beefy. 150mm of extension and 90 degrees worked out
very well and is quite stiff. The Albatross is the extra wide chromoly
version, and the whole setup makes it easy to herd that beast around
corners. I'd try one on a mountain bike, but they don't work well in
rock gardens. I have enough trouble staying upright without the
handlebar whacking my legs.

On Dec 24, 8:51 am, palin...@his.com wrote:
 Quoting Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com:



  As stated, I *did* push the Cinelli stem all the way down, but the
  Albatross was still too high. Cutting the fork *might* have gotten the
  bar low enough, but there were other issues and if it did not work,
  then I would still have a shortened steer tube. They are quite
  difficult to lengthen. :)

 No kidding.  That's one of the big issues many of us have with  
 threadless.  I didn't see that msg until after I'd replied.



  In the end, I used a different bar, a rare old Bridgestone bar that
  has about 2 of drop (I just measured). This is the opposite of the
  Albatross, which has rise unless you turn it over. The Bridgestone bar
  also requires far less stem extension

 Yes, different handlebars require different stem extensions.  It's a  
 challenge figuring out what you need ahead of time.  That's one reason  
 there's so much stem exchanging going on on the lists.  It's a good  
 thing you can use an albatross bar - it's one of the most  
 controversial designs ever.

 I've seen the Albatross mounted upside-down.  I think it looks great,  
 very much like the sporting bikes pre-WWI.
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread tarik saleh

On Wed, Dec 24, 2008 at 8:53 AM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:


 To say threadless stems are a solution in search of a problem is nonsense. I
 don't care who said it. Whoever it was probably hates mountain bikes,
 a common affliction among roadies.

 The quote is attributed to Richard Sachs.  I do not know what his
 feelings are about mountain bikes.  He makes cross bikes and sponsors
 a cross team, so he cannot be considered a pure roadie.

Yet Richard Sachs uses threadless on most of his new bikes:
http://www.richardsachs.com/signaturered.html
http://www.richardsachs.com/signatureblue.html
http://www.richardsachs.com/cxred.html

as does JP weigle:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49353...@n00/2811014159/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49353...@n00/2617014370/



Personally I will never buy a new bike that specs threaded it is a
dealbreaker for me on a new bike. If clinging to obsolete standards I
would much rather cling to 1 threadless for road use than quill
stems.

Tarik



-- 
Tarik Saleh
tas at tariksaleh dot com
in los alamos, po box 208, 87544
http://tariksaleh.com
all sorts of bikes blog: http://tsaleh.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-24 Thread PATRICK MOORE
 Or, if you're really picky, use an NVO stem system:

  http://www.nvocomponents.com/
 
  -Jim G



Gawd, that's **ugly**!!

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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread Jeremy Till

Frankly, i'm a surprised that this topic has brought up so many
arguments on both sides.  I always thought that 1 threaded headsets
and quill stems were a Rivendell thing, as integral to the identity
of the bikes as steel and lugs (excepting the Legolas, of course). I
wouldn't ask GP to change that. I'm cool with that and appreciate the
bikes for other reasons, and I know that if i ever own one it'll
probably have a threaded headset.

I'm firmly in the threadless camp (3 bikes, all threadless, 2 even
with the illusive 1 threadless!  no, headsets are not impossible to
find, and most stems come with a shim to make it work), but i'll
readily admit that my preference is mostly psychosomatic*.  I'm a big
guy, mostly ride fixed gear, and i like the idea of wrenching on a bar/
stem that's firmly clamped to the outside of a circular steel steerer
tube more than one that is literally wedged into place.

I do think the threadless stems make it harder to fine-tune the
height adjustment thing isn't as true as many make it out to be.
Yes, you'll probably want to cut the steerer tube if there's excessive
length above the stem and yes, you have to take the headset out of
adjustment to adjust the height of the stem, but they make headset
spacers down to 1mm and I doubt that any of you really adjust your
stem in increments of less than a millimeter.  An advantage of
threadless is that you always know by how much you're raising or
lowering your bars- no measuring required!

*It does help to have Jobst reinforcing my preference:
http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/threadless-headset.html
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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-24 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Tue, Dec 23, 2008 at 7:26 PM, John McMurry johnmcmu...@gmail.com wrote:



 Well, here in the Northeast, that doesn't fly.

 If you ride in the rain, in the snow, in the mud, or dirt around here
 for several thousand a year, annual maintenance is necessary; unless
 you're willing to dispose of these parts a couple years later.


I rode in plenty of rain with cheap steel components (Kenya, early '70s,
Delhi, late '60s) and never had a stem jam.

Oh well, perhaps your riding is different from mine.

Back to quill versus Aheadset: I think I'd choose an Aheadset for a new
custom, with a custom stem so that I would not have to use spacers. Or
perhaps custom made spacer to avoid the rings on the neck look.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Kayan_woman_with_neck_rings.jpg

Now here is a useful question: let's say you absolutely refused to have
steerer sticking up above your stem, as any good Christian and gentleman
would. So you leave, let's say, 2 of steerer poking up above the upper
bearing race. Fine. Now could one not make a stem with a collar that clamped
on this 2 portion but rose higher, being in effect a quill that clamped on
the outside of the steerer?

Better yet, why not a system whereby you have such an external, clamping
quill with a separate stem that clamps to said quill, so that you can
replace said quills to raise and lower without the humiliation of having
spacers on top of your stem? You'd lose much of the simplicity of the
threadless system, yet it still would be simpler than the old quill system.

I think I personally would have a new custom threadless stem made.

Patrick despite my loquacity on the subject, have no dog fighting in it
Moore

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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread palincss

Quoting Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com:

 One advantage of threadless forks, from a manufacturing and commercial
 point of view, is the fact that you only need to make one fork to fit
 a whole size run of frames. This makes things much easier and
 significantly less expensive. It would be pretty easy for Grant to
 order some threadless forks for, say, AHH owners who might want to buy
 one. I am not saying I think he should, and I do understand why he
 does not, but it's not like it would be a big deal to do it. It is
 also not likely to be a big money maker for someone like Rivendell. I
 do not expect it to happen, and it makes no difference in my opinion
 of Riv.

The only manufacturer I can think of off the top of my head who  
actually has done something like this is Kogswell, with its  
Konversion Forks.



 The way these things go, I expect that at some point there will be
 some decent chromoly forks with 1 threadless steer tubes readily
 available for a good price. There are millions of frames out there
 that they could be used on.

Kogswell.




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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-24 Thread JoelMatthews

 Back to quill versus Aheadset: I think I'd choose an Aheadset for a new
 custom, with a custom stem so that I would not have to use spacers. Or
 perhaps custom made spacer to avoid the rings on the neck look.

Guess I am the opposite.

My first custom is threadless.  I ultimately had a custom stem made
for it that does not require spacers.  Its beautiful, but came at an
additional $450.00.

My second custom I specified threadless.  The builder double checked
as most of his customers ask for threadless.  For the record, builder
and I are both very happy with how it turned out.

On Dec 24, 10:55 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Tue, Dec 23, 2008 at 7:26 PM, John McMurry johnmcmu...@gmail.com wrote:

  Well, here in the Northeast, that doesn't fly.

  If you ride in the rain, in the snow, in the mud, or dirt around here
  for several thousand a year, annual maintenance is necessary; unless
  you're willing to dispose of these parts a couple years later.

 I rode in plenty of rain with cheap steel components (Kenya, early '70s,
 Delhi, late '60s) and never had a stem jam.

 Oh well, perhaps your riding is different from mine.

 Back to quill versus Aheadset: I think I'd choose an Aheadset for a new
 custom, with a custom stem so that I would not have to use spacers. Or
 perhaps custom made spacer to avoid the rings on the neck look.

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Kayan_woman_with_neck_rings.jpg

 Now here is a useful question: let's say you absolutely refused to have
 steerer sticking up above your stem, as any good Christian and gentleman
 would. So you leave, let's say, 2 of steerer poking up above the upper
 bearing race. Fine. Now could one not make a stem with a collar that clamped
 on this 2 portion but rose higher, being in effect a quill that clamped on
 the outside of the steerer?

 Better yet, why not a system whereby you have such an external, clamping
 quill with a separate stem that clamps to said quill, so that you can
 replace said quills to raise and lower without the humiliation of having
 spacers on top of your stem? You'd lose much of the simplicity of the
 threadless system, yet it still would be simpler than the old quill system.

 I think I personally would have a new custom threadless stem made.

 Patrick despite my loquacity on the subject, have no dog fighting in it
 Moore
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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

2008-12-24 Thread Dr. Bill

Here's a link to some links regarding riding options in the Indpls/
central Indiana area.

http://circlecitybicycles.com/ccinbike.htm

Bill Evans

On Dec 23, 10:47 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
thill@gmail.com wrote:
 I just shipped a bike to a UPS customer center near the customer's
 home. It was much cheaper than it usually is when I ship it to a
 business or residential address.

 I'd also recommend paying a bike shop that does mail order to pack and
 ship the bike. The shop will generally provide a used box and packing
 materials for free or at a small cost, and will pack it better than
 you would yourself. If there is damage or loss, the claim is more
 likely to be paid if a regular shipping customer files it. At least
 that's been my experience.

 On Dec 23, 6:46 pm, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

  To get your bikes around domestically, look into shipping via either Fed Ex
  or UPS ground.  Contact your motel  ask them to take delivery of your bike
   ship it so it gets there a day or 2 ahead of you.  Then when you leave you
  just re-pack your bike,  ship it home.  Usually runs around $45-50 each
  way, at least this year.  Plus you can load it up with clothes, tools, etc 
  not be as concerned about weight as if you were dealing with the airlines.
  And you don't have the hassle of getting your bike from the airport to your
  motel.

  dougP

  -Original Message-
  From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

  [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris
  Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 4:25 PM
  To: RBW Owners Bunch
  Subject: [RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

  Jim,
  I wish I could bring my Bleriot, but I fear the airline prices might
  be a little high...
  We should try and have a RBW List get together...

  On Dec 22, 3:09 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
  wrote:
   Thanks all for the input. I found a bike map online that indicates a
   number of greenways and other bike trails, in addition to bike-able
   city streets, etc. The NAHB show itself is good for about 4 hours of
   entertainment for me, but the real reason I want to go is to ride my
   bike (probably Atlantis) in an unfamiliar city. Indy isn't Portland,
   but it doesn't look that bad.

   Jim

   On Dec 22, 1:31 pm, Sarah Gibson sadieja...@hotmail.com wrote:

never ridden bikes there myself
but this was one listmember
or was it ibob
anyhoos
this is what he had to say

damn, flying there so i won't have wheels. kind of a shame, as the
  town  empties at night with huge spread out roads- I was there for a 
  conference and yearning for a bike. It will be a blast for you all.  the
  one thing a bit troublesome with the town was the difficulty finding 
  vegetarian, but i am not terribly picky (outside of that constraint) and 
  can eat quite minimally.peace

well behaved women rarely make history_ride yr friggin bicycle_

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[RBW] cross country rider

2008-12-24 Thread Sarah Gibson

thought yall might enjoy this


http://www.bikingforobama.com/



even have a place for him stay
ifn yr on the route
peace






well behaved women rarely make history
_ride yr friggin bicycle_
 



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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread Tim McNamara


On Dec 24, 2008, at 10:53 AM, Jeremy Till wrote:

 Frankly, i'm a surprised that this topic has brought up so many
 arguments on both sides.  I always thought that 1 threaded headsets
 and quill stems were a Rivendell thing, as integral to the identity
 of the bikes as steel and lugs (excepting the Legolas, of course). I
 wouldn't ask GP to change that. I'm cool with that and appreciate the
 bikes for other reasons, and I know that if i ever own one it'll
 probably have a threaded headset.

 I'm firmly in the threadless camp (3 bikes, all threadless, 2 even
 with the illusive 1 threadless!  no, headsets are not impossible to
 find, and most stems come with a shim to make it work), but i'll
 readily admit that my preference is mostly psychosomatic*.  I'm a big
 guy, mostly ride fixed gear, and i like the idea of wrenching on a  
 bar/
 stem that's firmly clamped to the outside of a circular steel steerer
 tube more than one that is literally wedged into place.

 From a mechanical perspective, clamping the stem around the steerer  
tube is a better design than a quill stem.  The quill rocks inside  
the steerer, the wedge may bulge or weaken the steerer causing it to  
crack, stems with conical expanders tend to break at the slot in the  
quill, etc.  And of course there is the infamous stem frozen into the  
steerer by corrosion (I've fortunately never had that happen to one  
of my bikes, but saw it many times at bike shops where I worked).

I have two problems with threadless stems.  First, most of them are  
butt-ugly.  Fugly even.  Big, fat, anodized or painted tubes sticking  
up at ungainly angles.  I really hate the looks of the ones with  
removable face plates (BTW the two-bolts face plates are dangerous;  
use the 4 bolt ones to provide redundancy in case a bolt breaks).   
But that's a subjective opinion based on taste.

The second is mechanical.  The stem clamp is used to maintain the  
bearing preload of the headset.  This is initially set with the 5 mm  
Allen bolt in the stem cap, but the preload is held by the stem's  
pinch bolts.  In a crash or even just from the bike getting knocked  
over, if the bars get knocked askew you can't just twist them back  
into alignment without gumming up the bearing preload.  Out with the  
Allen wrenches and ten minutes of fiddling with it instead of  
riding.  Is this actually a big issue?  Probably not, I've never  
heard people who use threadless stems moaning about it.

I think the best solution is the one used by the old French  
constructeurs, who were making threadless stems 50 years before  
MTBs discovered them.  The headset was threaded as per usual, but the  
stem was clamped onto a tube brazed into the steerer.  If I went  
threadless, this is the system I'd use.  Interestingly, the  
constructeurs went back to the standard quill design after a decade  
or two because of the adjustability issue.

Also Tom Ritchey made bikes with clamped-on stems in the 70s- at  
which time Jobst criticized the design because it was non-standard  
and could be hard to fix in the boonies; Jobst has since come around  
to seeing threadless stems as the superior design; you can get  
replacement parts almost anywhere in the world now.



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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread Atlantean

Kogswell! Who knew? Thanks for the tip, Steve. That's exactly the sort
of info I was hoping to find when I dove into this discussion. I just
went to the Kogswell site, and could not find any forks for sale, so I
guess the telephone is their preferred marketing tool. I like Kogswell
and check their site from time to time. Their prices seem very
reasonable, but they do seem to have an unusual approach to marketing.

On Dec 24, 10:54 am, palin...@his.com wrote:
 Quoting Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com:

  One advantage of threadless forks, from a manufacturing and commercial
  point of view, is the fact that you only need to make one fork to fit
  a whole size run of frames. This makes things much easier and
  significantly less expensive. It would be pretty easy for Grant to
  order some threadless forks for, say, AHH owners who might want to buy
  one. I am not saying I think he should, and I do understand why he
  does not, but it's not like it would be a big deal to do it. It is
  also not likely to be a big money maker for someone like Rivendell. I
  do not expect it to happen, and it makes no difference in my opinion
  of Riv.

 The only manufacturer I can think of off the top of my head who  
 actually has done something like this is Kogswell, with its  
 Konversion Forks.



  The way these things go, I expect that at some point there will be
  some decent chromoly forks with 1 threadless steer tubes readily
  available for a good price. There are millions of frames out there
  that they could be used on.

 Kogswell.
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread Atlantean

I usually just leave the bike on the floor, straddle it, remove the
top cap, loosen the stem and pull it off. You can hold the hadlebar in
one hand while moving spacers around with the other, and then put it
all back together. I usually use a similar procedure when swapping
stems, but you need to have the new stem in easy reach if you don't
have anyone around to assist.

On Dec 24, 11:07 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
   I'm a big guy, mostly ride fixed gear, and i like the idea of wrenching on 
  a bar/
  stem that's firmly clamped to the outside of a circular steel steerer
  tube more than one that is literally wedged into place.

 I have bikes with either set up.  I always worry about the little
 bolts holding the threadless stem as opposed to the big honking bolt
 in the middle of the quill.

  I do think the threadless stems make it harder to fine-tune the
  height adjustment thing isn't as true as many make it out to be.
  Yes, you'll probably want to cut the steerer tube if there's excessive
  length above the stem and yes, you have to take the headset out of
  adjustment to adjust the height of the stem, but they make headset
  spacers down to 1mm and I doubt that any of you really adjust your
  stem in increments of less than a millimeter.  An advantage of
  threadless is that you always know by how much you're raising or
  lowering your bars- no measuring required!

 Yeah, but you have to put the bike on the stand, put the bars
 somewhere, take the ahead cap then stem off, fool with the spacers and
 put it all back together.  On the other hand, I can stop in the middle
 of a ride, pull out my trusty Park Y allen wrench and move the quill
 up and down in a matter of seconds.

 On Dec 24, 10:53 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:



  Frankly, i'm a surprised that this topic has brought up so many
  arguments on both sides.  I always thought that 1 threaded headsets
  and quill stems were a Rivendell thing, as integral to the identity
  of the bikes as steel and lugs (excepting the Legolas, of course). I
  wouldn't ask GP to change that. I'm cool with that and appreciate the
  bikes for other reasons, and I know that if i ever own one it'll
  probably have a threaded headset.

  I'm firmly in the threadless camp (3 bikes, all threadless, 2 even
  with the illusive 1 threadless!  no, headsets are not impossible to
  find, and most stems come with a shim to make it work), but i'll
  readily admit that my preference is mostly psychosomatic*.  I'm a big
  guy, mostly ride fixed gear, and i like the idea of wrenching on a bar/
  stem that's firmly clamped to the outside of a circular steel steerer
  tube more than one that is literally wedged into place.

  I do think the threadless stems make it harder to fine-tune the
  height adjustment thing isn't as true as many make it out to be.
  Yes, you'll probably want to cut the steerer tube if there's excessive
  length above the stem and yes, you have to take the headset out of
  adjustment to adjust the height of the stem, but they make headset
  spacers down to 1mm and I doubt that any of you really adjust your
  stem in increments of less than a millimeter.  An advantage of
  threadless is that you always know by how much you're raising or
  lowering your bars- no measuring required!

  *It does help to have Jobst reinforcing my 
  preference:http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/threadless-headset.html- Hide 
  quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread erik jensen
Dear Rivendellians,

Clearly none have considered the benefits of planing as regards the
problematic of threaded stem flex. This slight, often imperceptible,
distortion under duress netted by a quill pays off greatly in the
subharmonic release of said stored energy and propells the rider through the
dead zone of her pedal stroke resulting in a smoother ride and gentler
disposition.
I do have a threadless surly, and I do note it is significantly slower. I
attribute this to stem planing, which is the only clear scientifically
rigorous explanation I care for.

I like quills for a plethora of reasons, philosophic and aesthetic--none of
them performance aside from the quick change of height during a long ride or
tour. If they're good enough for thousands of miles by others in
multivariate conditions, that's good enough for me. I even like greasing my
stem, so...

On a serious note, all this talk about so and so prefers x over y for
reasons {a1, a2, a3} really misses the point in my opinion.

They both work fine, and I still have no idea what the original 'problem'
even was. Ride your bike, and by all means if you need that extra .3 mph in
a sprint convert to threadless--just don't overlook my concise introduction
to the oft-overlooked reality of stem planing, ok?

Have a great thursday eve and a fine holiday,

erik


On Wed, Dec 24, 2008 at 11:54 AM, palin...@his.com wrote:


 Quoting Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com:

  One advantage of threadless forks, from a manufacturing and commercial
  point of view, is the fact that you only need to make one fork to fit
  a whole size run of frames. This makes things much easier and
  significantly less expensive. It would be pretty easy for Grant to
  order some threadless forks for, say, AHH owners who might want to buy
  one. I am not saying I think he should, and I do understand why he
  does not, but it's not like it would be a big deal to do it. It is
  also not likely to be a big money maker for someone like Rivendell. I
  do not expect it to happen, and it makes no difference in my opinion
  of Riv.

 The only manufacturer I can think of off the top of my head who
 actually has done something like this is Kogswell, with its
 Konversion Forks.


 
  The way these things go, I expect that at some point there will be
  some decent chromoly forks with 1 threadless steer tubes readily
  available for a good price. There are millions of frames out there
  that they could be used on.

 Kogswell.




 


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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

2008-12-24 Thread Doug Peterson

That sounds fantastic - please try to remember the name of the service 
post.  

Packing  re-assembling the bike is always a challenge.  I urge people to do
it themselves so they know how to at the other end.  But just popping it
into a box  picking up at the destination city is probably worth $100 each
way.  

dougP

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of JoelMatthews
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 6:29 AM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis


There is a service that makes a special bike box and ships Fedex store
to Fedex store in the lower 48.  I think they are looking at expanding
over seas but have not got the numbers to work yet.  Forget the name,
but I saw someone who used it last summer.  The boxes are very well
designed.  You do not have to take the pedals off or turn the bars.
There is room in the box for packs.





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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis: SS

2008-12-24 Thread Doug Peterson

Jim:

Who did the conversion for you?  Did they insist on re-painting the entire
frame?

dougP

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Thill - Hiawatha
Cyclery
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 7:31 AM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis


I did SS couplers on my Atlantis last year, and took the bike to
Portland for NAHBS 2008. It was great to have my own bike with me for
the trip. Of course, it was free to take the packed bike on the plane,
but the conversion set me back about $750. I have to use it a few more
times before I see a profit! If I go to Indianapolis in 2009, it'll be
a road-trip, and I won't have to use the couplers.




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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

2008-12-24 Thread JoelMatthews

Doug:

Almost certain it is the AirCaddy Bill links above.

On Dec 24, 12:46 pm, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 That sounds fantastic - please try to remember the name of the service 
 post.  

 Packing  re-assembling the bike is always a challenge.  I urge people to do
 it themselves so they know how to at the other end.  But just popping it
 into a box  picking up at the destination city is probably worth $100 each
 way.  

 dougP



 -Original Message-
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

 [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of JoelMatthews
 Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 6:29 AM
 To: RBW Owners Bunch
 Subject: [RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

 There is a service that makes a special bike box and ships Fedex store
 to Fedex store in the lower 48.  I think they are looking at expanding
 over seas but have not got the numbers to work yet.  Forget the name,
 but I saw someone who used it last summer.  The boxes are very well
 designed.  You do not have to take the pedals off or turn the bars.
 There is room in the box for packs.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: cross country rider

2008-12-24 Thread JoelMatthews

Thanks for the link.  Guy is truly inspired.  Even the southern tier
this time of the year can get dicey weather.

On Dec 24, 8:44 am, Sarah Gibson sadieja...@hotmail.com wrote:
 thought yall might enjoy this

 http://www.bikingforobama.com/

 even have a place for him stay
 ifn yr on the route
 peace

 well behaved women rarely make history
 _ride yr friggin bicycle_
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread PATRICK MOORE
In my considered opinion, Erik was being facetious.

On Wed, Dec 24, 2008 at 12:35 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:


  They both work fine, and I still have no idea what the original 'problem'
  even was. Ride your bike, and by all means if you need that extra .3 mph
 in
  a sprint convert to threadless--just don't overlook my concise
 introduction
  to the oft-overlooked reality of stem planing, ok?

 Well, thank you for the holiday wishes Erik (and back at you!), but I
 fear your planing theory does not advance the debate, at least as I
 understand it.

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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread JoelMatthews

 In my considered opinion, Erik was being facetious.

I was trying to be as well.  Unfortunately, I note my spelling is
rather poor.

On Dec 24, 1:37 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 In my considered opinion, Erik was being facetious.



 On Wed, Dec 24, 2008 at 12:35 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

   They both work fine, and I still have no idea what the original 'problem'
   even was. Ride your bike, and by all means if you need that extra .3 mph
  in
   a sprint convert to threadless--just don't overlook my concise
  introduction
   to the oft-overlooked reality of stem planing, ok?

  Well, thank you for the holiday wishes Erik (and back at you!), but I
  fear your planing theory does not advance the debate, at least as I
  understand it.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis: SS

2008-12-24 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

Curt Goodrich did the conversion, along with a few other braze-ons.
The paint was beat up before Curt took the torch to it, and it was
absolutely scorched afterward. I had it powdercoated all black at
Spectrum.

On Dec 24, 12:56 pm, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Jim:

 Who did the conversion for you?  Did they insist on re-painting the entire
 frame?

 dougP

 -Original Message-
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

 [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Thill - Hiawatha
 Cyclery
 Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 7:31 AM
 To: RBW Owners Bunch
 Subject: [RBW] Re: NAHBS Indianapolis

 I did SS couplers on my Atlantis last year, and took the bike to
 Portland for NAHBS 2008. It was great to have my own bike with me for
 the trip. Of course, it was free to take the packed bike on the plane,
 but the conversion set me back about $750. I have to use it a few more
 times before I see a profit! If I go to Indianapolis in 2009, it'll be
 a road-trip, and I won't have to use the couplers.
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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-24 Thread Steve Palincsar

On Tue, 2008-12-23 at 12:03 -0800, Chris Halasz wrote:
 Tried a bike this past year with a threadless stem; it was the largest
 sized, and I could *not* find a production stem that brought the bars
 within a cm of saddle height (cm to zero difference) that wasn't
 stretched too far, or just incredibly ugly. Even then, I couldn't get
 it to work. Maybe if the steerer hadn't been pre-cut.


That's definitely an issue - most threadless stems are butt ugly.  The
Nitto TFL was not, but that was an accident, and we won't see them
again.  The Nitto lugged threadless stem is nice, but definitely not
inexpensive.  Same is true for the fillet brazed Nitto track threadless
stem - and they're not only expensive, they're only in 25.4 and long
sizes.  And what's more, none of these have removable faceplates.

There are some gorgeous custom threadless stems out there.   They're
expensive, and again as a rule they don't have removable faceplates.




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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-24 Thread Invisible

With respect to your opinion, I don't think standard threadless stems
are ugly. I also don't think it's relevant.

I prefer threadless stems for the reasons I listed in my first post to
this thread: they make it easier to change stems and handlebars, and
they can be serviced or adjusted with just a 5mm Allen wrench, while
threaded headsets require large wrenches that have no other purpose on
a bike (or anywhere in my life).

Others here clearly prefer threaded stems. That's fine, too.

It looks like I'd need to ask Rivendell if they have uncut stems
available for use with a threadless headset. I still believe that
using a threadless headset on a threaded steer tube is no problem.

-Wesley
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread Angus

Eric,

Stem Planing  You might be on the something...I wonder, with
insufficient fastener torque, if one could induce brake lever planing
or handlebar planing.

I have an old Guerciotti Aluminum (I belive it was made by Alan) that
has a 1 threaded, all aluminum fork...think about this...the steerer
tube had the same outside diameter as a steel fork AND the same inside
diameter as a steel fork but made with a material that is 1/3rd as
stiff.  Fork planing!  No wonder I used to be so much faster

Angus

On Dec 24, 12:22 pm, erik jensen radiophonicworks...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Dear Rivendellians,

 Clearly none have considered the benefits of planing as regards the
 problematic of threaded stem flex. This slight, often imperceptible,
 distortion under duress netted by a quill pays off greatly in the
 subharmonic release of said stored energy and propells the rider through the
 dead zone of her pedal stroke resulting in a smoother ride and gentler
 disposition.
 I do have a threadless surly, and I do note it is significantly slower. I
 attribute this to stem planing, which is the only clear scientifically
 rigorous explanation I care for.

 I like quills for a plethora of reasons, philosophic and aesthetic--none of
 them performance aside from the quick change of height during a long ride or
 tour. If they're good enough for thousands of miles by others in
 multivariate conditions, that's good enough for me. I even like greasing my
 stem, so...

 On a serious note, all this talk about so and so prefers x over y for
 reasons {a1, a2, a3} really misses the point in my opinion.

 They both work fine, and I still have no idea what the original 'problem'
 even was. Ride your bike, and by all means if you need that extra .3 mph in
 a sprint convert to threadless--just don't overlook my concise introduction
 to the oft-overlooked reality of stem planing, ok?

 Have a great thursday eve and a fine holiday,

 erik



 On Wed, Dec 24, 2008 at 11:54 AM, palin...@his.com wrote:

  Quoting Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com:

   One advantage of threadless forks, from a manufacturing and commercial
   point of view, is the fact that you only need to make one fork to fit
   a whole size run of frames. This makes things much easier and
   significantly less expensive. It would be pretty easy for Grant to
   order some threadless forks for, say, AHH owners who might want to buy
   one. I am not saying I think he should, and I do understand why he
   does not, but it's not like it would be a big deal to do it. It is
   also not likely to be a big money maker for someone like Rivendell. I
   do not expect it to happen, and it makes no difference in my opinion
   of Riv.

  The only manufacturer I can think of off the top of my head who
  actually has done something like this is Kogswell, with its
  Konversion Forks.

   The way these things go, I expect that at some point there will be
   some decent chromoly forks with 1 threadless steer tubes readily
   available for a good price. There are millions of frames out there
   that they could be used on.

  Kogswell.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-24 Thread Atlantean

Wesley, the problem is with using a threadless stem on the threaded
portion of a steer tube. That would not be a secure connection, but it
would be a good way to start cutting threads into the clamp area of
the stem. If you mean using a threaded fork with the threaded part cut
off, then yes, people have been dong that for years.

On Dec 24, 3:27 pm, Invisible brooks.wes...@gmail.com wrote:
 With respect to your opinion, I don't think standard threadless stems
 are ugly. I also don't think it's relevant.

 I prefer threadless stems for the reasons I listed in my first post to
 this thread: they make it easier to change stems and handlebars, and
 they can be serviced or adjusted with just a 5mm Allen wrench, while
 threaded headsets require large wrenches that have no other purpose on
 a bike (or anywhere in my life).

 Others here clearly prefer threaded stems. That's fine, too.

 It looks like I'd need to ask Rivendell if they have uncut stems
 available for use with a threadless headset. I still believe that
 using a threadless headset on a threaded steer tube is no problem.

 -Wesley
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread Mike

Stem Planing  You might be on the something...I wonder, with
insufficient fastener torque, if one could induce brake lever planing
or handlebar planing.

I love it!
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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-24 Thread JoelMatthews

 I also don't think it's relevant

Looks are relevant when the discussion is Rivendell.  Certainly Rivs
have a lot more going for them than their good looks, but looks is
part of the reason they have such a loyal following.  Otherwise, a lot
more Riv owners would have bought a Surly.

 they can be serviced or adjusted with just a 5mm Allen wrench, while
 threaded headsets require large wrenches that have no other purpose on
 a bike (or anywhere in my life).

I don't follow this.  You don't have to do anything with the headset
when you adjust a quill stem.

On Dec 24, 4:27 pm, Invisible brooks.wes...@gmail.com wrote:
 With respect to your opinion, I don't think standard threadless stems
 are ugly. I also don't think it's relevant.

 I prefer threadless stems for the reasons I listed in my first post to
 this thread: they make it easier to change stems and handlebars, and
 they can be serviced or adjusted with just a 5mm Allen wrench, while
 threaded headsets require large wrenches that have no other purpose on
 a bike (or anywhere in my life).

 Others here clearly prefer threaded stems. That's fine, too.

 It looks like I'd need to ask Rivendell if they have uncut stems
 available for use with a threadless headset. I still believe that
 using a threadless headset on a threaded steer tube is no problem.

 -Wesley
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[RBW] ride report: circling Manhattan on a Ramb

2008-12-24 Thread Will

Happy holidays everyone. Since the perimeter of the island of
Manhattan is now mostly bike paths, it's possible to circle the island
by bike with minimal street use. Best time of year? Now, when it's
cold outside, and the usual congestion of joggers/rollerbladers/
walkers are indoors. Best tool for the job? Something with clearance
for wider tires (some sections are rough!). Here's just a few scenes
along the way...

The USS Intrepid is back at Pier 86 (W46th Street) after a 2-year
overhaul.
www.flickr.com/photos/millhiser/3133793495

One of the fastest sections of the bike path, under the West Side
Highway in the Upper West Side (in the 60s).
www.flickr.com/photos/millhiser/3134614862

Along the Hudson near the 79th St Boat Basin (note GWB in the
background).
www.flickr.com/photos/millhiser/3134614622

Enjoy,
Will
Chelsea, NYC
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[RBW] Re: Hillborne Foy Mini Report - From Monday

2008-12-24 Thread RonLau

Jim,

Nice, I tried the mixte a few weeks ago, feel lighter than other.
What did GP say about the tubing choice?

Also, I myself prefer the plastic cable guide on the BB, which is new
for them.

Ron

On Dec 24, 6:17 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Hey there -

 Had a chance to scoot by RBWHQL on Monday, scoring one of the brand new
 wool caps and getting a chance to ride both the 56 Sam Hillborne and the
 Betty Foy.

 Wrote it up here -http://ramblings.cyclofiend.com/?p=316

 Hope to get back over there for a longer Hillborne loop when the testers
 arrive. In the meantime, I think that those are pretty interesting bikes
 they've come up with.

 Happy Holidays!

 - Jim

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes

 You must be the change you want to see in the world.
     Mahatma Gandhi
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[RBW] Re: ride report: circling Manhattan on a Ramb

2008-12-24 Thread David Estes
OK, be honest now, are you BSNYC?

How many miles is a ride around the island?

Cheers,
DE

On Wed, Dec 24, 2008 at 6:23 PM, Will wpm...@gmail.com wrote:


 Happy holidays everyone. Since the perimeter of the island of
 Manhattan is now mostly bike paths, it's possible to circle the island
 by bike with minimal street use. Best time of year? Now, when it's
 cold outside, and the usual congestion of joggers/rollerbladers/
 walkers are indoors. Best tool for the job? Something with clearance
 for wider tires (some sections are rough!). Here's just a few scenes
 along the way...

 The USS Intrepid is back at Pier 86 (W46th Street) after a 2-year
 overhaul.
 www.flickr.com/photos/millhiser/3133793495

 One of the fastest sections of the bike path, under the West Side
 Highway in the Upper West Side (in the 60s).
 www.flickr.com/photos/millhiser/3134614862

 Along the Hudson near the 79th St Boat Basin (note GWB in the
 background).
 www.flickr.com/photos/millhiser/3134614622

 Enjoy,
 Will
 Chelsea, NYC
 



-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: ride report: circling Manhattan on a Ramb

2008-12-24 Thread Weird Harold

Hey Will -

I live right by Chelsea Pier. I'll be looking for your bike on the
path... I have a white Bridgestone XO-2..
Going to the Riv store in SF in a week or so.. very excited...




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