I have tubeless tires on all four of my 650b bikes. I've used the following
640b tires tubeless: Hetre, Pari Moto, Babyshoe Pass Extralight, Quasi Moto,
Racing Ralph, Thunder Burt, Maxxis Ardent Race. I use tubeless compatible rims
with Stan's tape and Stan's sealant and more recently Orange
That's a really good question, and since obviously the seat stay bridge is
a lot thinner than a crown, it does introduce the possibility of some
rotation from the torque. On the other hand, traditional brazed on housing
stops that bridge the stays much like a seat stay bridge are made from
What’s the gear inches resulting from that ring/cog combo?
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Moore
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2015 6:48 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch
Subject: Re: [RBW] Rivendell gofast!
I've posted this photo
Very very good condition. 140.00 shipped
This is the super stout version of the regular Campee racks.
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Set up here for gravel, the Vaya is great for touring and road riding too.
Orange, the fastest color! In excellent condition: Midge bars, Sram
drivetrain, double compact, Crank Brothers Eggbeaters, WTB Tubeless Ready
rims, with 2 sets of tires *$1100*.
*Fish sold separately... *
Sorry, couldn't resist. BB
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 8:08:03 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
Overdue for a bike project, picked up a steel cross frame in my size and
plan to build a gravel bike with bullmoose bars.
Going the compact double route with 9-speed rear
I seated my WTB's with a combination of CO2 cartridges and a bike pump.
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 5:12:46 AM UTC-8, Jim Bronson wrote:
What all is involved with initial setup on tubeless? Is there a Riv-ish
guide to doing so?
My LBS told me that I needed to have an air compressor to
Thank you Patrick. I plan to ride with abandon!
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 5:40:05 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
That's a brilliant all-round country bike build! Beautiful!
With abandon,
Patrick
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You don't need the pressure spec; just pump to 60 psi ride until mushy
(sometime next month), then pump up again. Tire pressure is highly
over-rated. :-)
dougP
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 6:18:40 PM UTC-8, Z wrote:
Don't worry Bill, the pressure specs are near the valve stems even
I opened the thread, and saw Seth Vidal's post as the #2.
RIP Seth - your spirit lives on, mate ..
KJ
On Monday, January 4, 2010 at 4:54:01 PM UTC-5, sjauch wrote:
I currently have a 2005 Specialized Allez Comp. It was my first road
bike and it is about a size too big and only recently got
disapproval officially RESCINDED
change approval state to APPROVE
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 6:18:40 PM UTC-8, Z wrote:
Don't worry Bill, the pressure specs are near the valve stems even though
the brand logos are not. We could ask the snob to ask Jan to relocate the
logos... PLZ
Steve asks:
Last I heard, those raw clearcoat powdercoated bikes rusted pretty quickly
under the finish. Has that changed?
I doubt that it has changed. However I think the rate of rusting is quite
dependent on the particular environment, so as to how fast rust accumulates
YMMV.
Furthermore,
Nah, that's just what I told my friends who are generally horrified by my
mental cache of Tolkien trivia.
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 5:56:41 PM UTC-7, Wildcat96 wrote:
Clever LOTR reference Z. Is that what Rivendell called the color? I got
a close but not perfect match using Dupicolor
Don't worry Bill, the pressure specs are near the valve stems even though
the brand logos are not. We could ask the snob to ask Jan to relocate the
logos... PLZ APPROVE
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 5:33:47 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Is that a Rivendell dead-stock stem? APPROVE.
For the Quickbeam!
Let me know if you've got one available for purchase please, and thanks!
Amit
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Maybe this will work? I used my google drive to insert...
IMG_0589.JPG
https://docs.google.com/a/uwalumni.com/file/d/0B6fPQCWekvygOHF5MkZHdllFdTNSb09mVHVvekwwZ0dJZWlB/edit?usp=drive_web
On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 5:53 PM, Wildcat96 cschoentha...@gmail.com wrote:
Hmm...for some reason your pic is
I agree Doug. Just adding the bottle cages this afternoon spoiled the
clean look in a way. But such a versatile machine! I'm excited.
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 5:25:04 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
Looking good! A couple of bottle cages some bar tape you're on the
road. I've mentioned
My kids have the $3 Ikea vests and they've held up really well! For $3
they don't have zippers and rely on inadequate velcro patches as closures,
which don't really work. But the kids just were them open. The reflective
portions are very effective! The kids have had them for a couple of
If I want to ride this bike before summer, must sell something to buy
parts - going to throw out 5 rods on a couple of fishing boards, hoping to
sell 2, but this is by far the best of them
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 9:16:13 AM UTC-6, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
*Fish sold separately... *
From my experiences with tubeless on a variety of UST and non-tubeless
tires, there's the hard way and the easy way. 2 things are essential if you
prefer easy:
- A compressor (I *have* been successful with a hand pump... once I
think, and that was a bionic effort after 10 cups of coffee;
My Bombadil has a brazed on stop.
The two BRUTE_FORCE workarounds for you could be: 1. Switch to V-Brakes
and 2. Get the Paul Funky Monkey that clamps to the seat post.
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 10:47:29 AM UTC-8, Tom Harrop wrote:
Thanks for the replies, everyone. I have one of
We've been building some tubeless clincher wheelsets using the Pacenti SL23 and
the Velocity A23 rims and have had great luck with mounting the tires and
seating them. We do use a compressor, however, and we use the Orange Seal
tubeless sealant. The best thing about the Orange Seal is that, in
46/15 X 24.5 = 75. I have a 17 tooth on the flip side that gives a 65
gear for extended hills (over 1 mile) or hill/wind combos.
Aside: my errand fixed Riv, that often carries loads and that is 6-7 lb
heavier is geared at ~ 70/63. My cruising gear on the derailleur Ram, at
26 lb/8+ lb heavier and
But I generally finish up at the 20 mile point while you go on for double
that, no?
On Sun, Feb 8, 2015 at 8:26 PM, hsmitham hughsmit...@gmail.com wrote:
Yeah it's guy's like you burning past me on hills with me on my go slow
'03 Atlantis running 55mm BB's sloughing along :-p Glad you took
Noah-Cool to hear you're doing the DK this year. I started a post on it a few
weeks ago. I'm in for the Half Pint again this year with a goal to at least
finish. I'm curious to hear about your bike choice and setup for this year.
I've had good look with the Force Field Fatty Rumpkins, though
Road levers are designed for larger-diameter bars, so you shouldn't have
any problem sliding them on Albas and clamping them at the curves. I
imagine you would have to get them at just the right spot to have enough
room to pull the lever back without bottoming..a point which may not be
ideal
Wow that is a ton of wool jerseys!!
On Feb 9, 2015 3:28 PM, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
Check on ebay under cyclingwool jerseys or seller RGZ4AMS
Thanks!!
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I was in RE Bicycles here in Seattle about a week ago. I was there with a
friend of mine who is thinking about having his 30 year old DeRosa
repainted with a powder coat. RE said they don't do powder coats because
it allows moisture to get in and rust the frame. Better to go with an
enamel. RE
I have the same issue with a 9 speed bar end. It's been in a bucket of
turpentine for a couple of weeks and it's still gummed up. Some suggested
that it was something mechanical, but I have played with it incessantly and
I don't think it is mechanical. So apparently it's now a throwaway item.
I can't say they are spouting hogwash, it can be done with a pump, but its
s much easier with a compressor. One trick is to wrap the
perimeter (tread side, all the way around) with a ratchet strap or similar.
By pushing down on the tread area, it causes the beads to flair out,
thusly
Bump! Thought I'd try one more time here before sending them to Ebay.
On Tuesday, February 3, 2015 at 7:08:22 PM UTC-8, Michael Ullmer wrote:
I have some silver shifters for sale on CL here in Seattle. If you're
local you can take $5 off and have them for $60. Otherwise, I can ship them
for
Thanks for the replies, everyone. I have one of the longer Nitto
binder-bolt-mounted stops, but it interferes with the binder bolt. Not the
end of the world, and I can make it work, just looking for other options.
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Yes, compressors are most helpful. Even then it can still be a pain IMHO. I
had a chance to buy a second wheelset to set up tubeless, but passed on it.
I've never had a set come off from inactivity. I did have a nasty burp out
on the trails that sent me down pretty hard, glad to have not
If you mean these SunRace thumbies, they don't index:
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh3.htm
If these, they sorta-do-but-not-really:
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/shsrtsr.htm
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 7:27:34 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:
If I want to ride this bike before summer, must
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 5:12:46 AM UTC-8, Jim Bronson wrote:
They also said that if you don't ride them regularly, it's better to use
tubes because the tire will come off the bead, which relates to needing
(again) to have an air compressor to seat.
A compressor plus soapy water
I wouldn't worry about a Bomba, but
Why avoid the seatpost one?
I used one of these on my Bomba:
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/ca23.htm
FWIW
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 9:42:46 AM UTC-5, Tom Harrop wrote:
Hi All,
Does anyone see any issues with using a one of the
ok Joe, I was asking about these,
then http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=60220
offered in 8 or 9 rear and separate front, so it would be $40, not $20
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 11:19:11 AM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
If you mean these SunRace thumbies, they
Hi Kellie, curious on how the Vaya rides unladen. It's marketed as a
touring bike, and am wondering if it's built up with heavy tubing similar
to a Long Haul Trucker. I'm looking at one locally, but don't need an
over-built (relative) touring frame.
Just wondering what your thoughts on that
I've lost track of who is the manufacturer, and who is the label. SunRace has
been around much longer than MicroSHIFT, and now my ANT Roadster is shifting a
3-speed hub with a SunRace/MicroSHIFT thumbie labeled Sturmey-Archer!
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Is that a Rivendell dead-stock stem? APPROVE.
Are your tire labels really randomly oriented relative to your valve-stems?
DISAPPROVE.
;-P
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 3:21:49 PM UTC-8, Z wrote:
Oops... I built it!
[image: Displaying IMG_0589.JPG]
On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at
That's a brilliant all-round country bike build! Beautiful!
With abandon,
Patrick
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How did you find a 5-year-old thread?? ;)
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Hmm...for some reason your pic is not displaying for me. Still can't wait
to see it!
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 5:21:49 PM UTC-6, Z wrote:
Oops... I built it!
[image: Displaying IMG_0589.JPG]
On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 8:35:02 PM UTC-7, Wildcat96 wrote:
Great news Z! I'm so
Clever LOTR reference Z. Is that what Rivendell called the color? I got a
close but not perfect match using Dupicolor GM Silver touchup
paint/primer.
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 5:16:31 PM UTC-6, Z wrote:
*Mithril* and gold... am I right?
On Friday, February 6, 2015 at 1:48:02 PM
That's awesome! And super price. Congrats!
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 4:10:40 PM UTC-8, Will wrote:
Thanks for the post. Turns out the seller is a local bike shop. The bike
is in as-new condition.
I have it in my living room, waiting for the wife to come home so I can
explain myself.
Congrats, nice score!
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IKEA?... probably delaminate if you get caught in the rain!
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 12:52:10 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
FYI: Ikea, to my surprise, now sells reflective vests with real, legit,
3M reflective stripes, for $4. $3 in kids sizes. That's pretty darn cheap.
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Replied to all. Thanks for your interest.
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 8:44:52 AM UTC-8, Kendallspower wrote:
Very very good condition. 140.00 shipped
This is the super stout version of the regular Campee racks.
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Interested in a frame of either model. Thanks.
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Love it!! If I may ask, what chain rings are you running, and BB spindle
length? I've got white 44/30 on my Atlantis. Thinking of dropping to a 44/28.
Beautiful bike!
On Feb 9, 2015, at 11:21 PM, Z ztahr...@uwalumni.com wrote:
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 5:53:21 PM UTC-7, Wildcat96
Thanks Bill, my other Bomba (MTB) also has a brazed on stop, which is
nice. I'm actually switching from V-brakes to cantis on this bike
(tourer/commuter) for some extra fender clearance, but the Funky Monkey is
plan A2. And I could always try sudo cablestop I guess...
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Awesome! Non-epic rides are my mainstay. I just got out (after way too
long!) to enjoy this brilliant, sunny, warm, breezy pre-spring day of 50˚F!
Gadzooks! I'd forgotten what that feels like. Amazing. Delicious.
Stupendous. Awe-full! Grin. Rode up to a back trail, rode it till the ice
began,
Joe,
Why do you say that you would not use a tire that wasn't tubeless specific
on the road? As opposed to off road? Is it the higher pressures?
I mean, I can understand the hesitation to use any widget in a way that the
manufacturer didn't recommend or intend, but what is it about on road
oops, never mind I found microshift thumbies - I'll be going with those
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 12:28:41 PM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
ok Joe, I was asking about these, then
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=60220
offered in 8 or 9 rear and separate front, so
I have both a Rivendell Saluki and a 650B Lyon and I like the Lyon a lot.
On Monday, January 4, 2010 at 2:54:01 PM UTC-7, sjauch wrote:
I currently have a 2005 Specialized Allez Comp. It was my first road
bike and it is about a size too big and only recently got comfortable
riding it once I
William!,
Drill through the lug, no bigger than you need to clear the wire + a piece
of heat-shrink reinforcement, and deburr carefully. It'll be fine, esp. if
it is a heavy downtube (like that used on the Atlantis). Alex Singer has
done this for over seventy years and it hasn't been an
Greetings All,
I have been in contact with this CL Lister (Ben) regarding his Atlantis for
sale:
http://madison.craigslist.org/bik/4881590302.html
Seems like a good deal. If I had not just built up a 26 lugged steel
camping bike, I would have bought it already. Lister states the bike is in
Check on ebay under cyclingwool jerseys or seller RGZ4AMS
Thanks!!
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Bruce, I'm new to RBW but check in often. I'd like to give a plug for
Groody Brothers in Kansas City, Missouri. They have a very informative
website. I've had them powder coat a frame which turned out nicely. To
remove the old paint, they used a glass bead blasting process which is much
Patrick,
Have you looked into setting up one of your 559/571 bikes with tubular
tires similar to how you have the Ram set up? That could be a way to get
the plush construction you want out of a mythic 28mm 571 ERD tire.
Continental makes the Sprinter 250 in a 650c analog size and it has a
cotton
I need to correct myself: my Bomba did come w/ one of those in the link,
but I didn't use it. (I went w/ v-brakes.)
Could you just switch to the other style?
Thing is, it's only acting as a guide: the cable is pulling up on the
brakes, passing through the guide, but there shouldn't be
David,
Having owned both the LHT, A Bruce Gordon Rock 'n' Road, and the Orange
Vaya (it is the fastest color), the Vaya seems to me to feel the most
sprightly unladen. I haven't ever loaded it up with the crazy heavy weight
I put on my LHT, but with 4 day loads, it rides well, but not
I have an almost brand new set of Ultegra 8spd bar end shifters that I'd
sell you. I used them on my Sam for only a couple of days before deciding I
didn't care for indexed shifting and preferred the ratios of a 7spd
cassette I had better anyway. In fact, I suppose I have a practically new
FYI: Ikea, to my surprise, now sells reflective vests with real, legit, 3M
reflective stripes, for $4. $3 in kids sizes. That's pretty darn cheap.
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sudo cablestop!!!
That's geek-TASTIC!
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 12:37:40 PM UTC-8, Tom Harrop wrote:
Thanks Bill, my other Bomba (MTB) also has a brazed on stop, which is
nice. I'm actually switching from V-brakes to cantis on this bike
(tourer/commuter) for some extra fender
I wish I could find 28s in the 571 or the 559 size -- alas, no ...
On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 5:53 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
I ran 23 mm michelins and then continentals on my Ram but switched to the
29 mm Cerfs. I don't think the bike is one bit slower, and it is
definitely
Jim-
In my experience with setting up my fat bike tires tubeless, I definitely
needed a compressor to get them to seat. I carry a tube in case the tire
does come off the rim, but I've never had that happen yet.
There are multiple methods to setup tubeless. Some factory designs like
UST have
Just for reference, I finally got around to taking some pictures of the
Louis Garneau bag on my Handsome over the weekend. Already I can tell
that it wont be popular and the bag rides REALLY high. You don't see it
when you are riding it, but when I stepped back 10 feet to photograph it, I
Nice. Please do, Tim.
On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 2:01 PM, Tim Gavin tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com
wrote:
I wanted to try this, so I recently had my vintage Schwinn KOM frame bead
blasted. My local powder coater wasn't convinced that his coatings would
be as crystal clear as I'd like, so he
Hi Jim,
My primary reluctance for using non-tubeless-specific tires set up as tubeless
for road use is the higher tire pressures. This may not be as big an issue when
using higher volume tires like the Hetre, where you can run them at lower
pressures. This is why MTB tubeless can often be done
On 02/08/2015 06:43 PM, Steven Butcher wrote:
Bruce, I'm new to RBW but check in often. I'd like to give a plug for
Groody Brothers in Kansas City, Missouri. They have a very
informative website. I've had them powder coat a frame which turned
out nicely. To remove the old paint, they used
Hi David. I haven't ridden it loaded. Unloaded rides really nice,
responsive without being squirrely. My daughter rode it loaded from Santa
Cruz to New Orleans and loved it. She had back panniers and a handlebar bag
carrying all her stuff: tent, sleeping bag, cooking gear, food, etc. Can't
I wanted to try this, so I recently had my vintage Schwinn KOM frame bead
blasted. My local powder coater wasn't convinced that his coatings would
be as crystal clear as I'd like, so he hooked me up with a former employee
of his who now paints auto finishes. That gent is putting on a couple
The SunRace thumbies are Microshift.
On Feb 9, 2015 2:21 PM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:
oops, never mind I found microshift thumbies - I'll be going with those
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 12:28:41 PM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
ok Joe, I was asking about these, then http://www.
Jay,
If you're using levers as pedestrian as Weinmann or Dia-Compe non-aero
levers, there are clamps which fit a 7/8/22.2mm handlebar. I probably
have some in a bucket of spare parts.
I don't know if there is sufficient room on an Albatross handlebar. I have
an old Priest handlebar and
I ran 23 mm michelins and then continentals on my Ram but switched to the
29 mm Cerfs. I don't think the bike is one bit slower, and it is
definitely more comfortable. What a great bike.
Our thermometer hasn't budged from 9 degrees in more than 24 hours. We're
enjoying snowshoeing now,
What all is involved with initial setup on tubeless? Is there a Riv-ish
guide to doing so?
My LBS told me that I needed to have an air compressor to make the tires
seat, but I have a hard time imagining that to be true. They also said
that if you don't ride them regularly, it's better to use
that may be true about the internal mechanism, but the Microshift thumbies
have much hardware on the outside
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 4:42:37 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:
The SunRace thumbies are Microshift.
On Feb 9, 2015 2:21 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:
oops,
Thanks for the post. Turns out the seller is a local bike shop. The bike is
in as-new condition.
I have it in my living room, waiting for the wife to come home so I can
explain myself. :-)
Will
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 10:17:13 AM UTC-6, Batwing wrote:
Greetings All,
I have been in
Congrats on the new ride!
On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 4:10 PM, Will waller.will...@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks for the post. Turns out the seller is a local bike shop. The bike
is in as-new condition.
I have it in my living room, waiting for the wife to come home so I can
explain myself. :-)
Will
Looking good! A couple of bottle cages some bar tape you're on the
road. I've mentioned this before but bikes always look so good before we
clutter them up with racks'n'bags. But that's the price we pay for
usefulness. Definitely a first world problem.
dougP
On Monday, February 9, 2015
First, you'll find a good number of folks who well understand the desire to
find the perfect bar, and focus a stunning amount of effort on it. I
started out with the Albatross, tried moustache, and settled on the
Albastache. The Albatross' curves were all wrong for my wrists as a major
Overdue for a bike project, picked up a steel cross frame in my size and
plan to build a gravel bike with bullmoose bars.
Going the compact double route with 9-speed rear (worked out a perfect for
me gear chart, 24 inches to 90 inches in 6-inch steps).
Want to index shift on thumbies.
I
Can't tell you how many times I've wished for make install and killall at
the repair stand.
Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 1:07:57 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
sudo cablestop!!!
That's geek-TASTIC!
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 12:37:40 PM UTC-8, Tom
*Mithril* and gold... am I right?
On Friday, February 6, 2015 at 1:48:02 PM UTC-7, Wildcat96 wrote:
Okay, I think you folks have convinced me to stick with the silver and
gold combo. I might just cover the kickstand plate with a good coat of
primer and enjoy the Bomba as is. It's kind of
On 02/09/2015 06:08 PM, Geoffrey wrote:
One thing you could do is keep sanding and polishing until it's at a
point that you like. Heck, you could make it look like chrome. No
need to send to the powder coater, try P.C. Glisten, self leveling
clear coat. It dries unbelievably hard and is
Oops... I built it!
[image: Displaying IMG_0589.JPG]
On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 8:35:02 PM UTC-7, Wildcat96 wrote:
Great news Z! I'm so happy to hear it's going work out for you! Make
sure to post some pics when you get it built up.
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One thing you could do is keep sanding and polishing until it's at a point
that you like. Heck, you could make it look like chrome. No need to send
to the powder coater, try P.C. Glisten, self leveling clear coat. It dries
unbelievably hard and is very easy to use.
On Tuesday, August 21,
Hi All,
Does anyone see any issues with using a one of the Tektro fork-mount cable
stops http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/ca15089.htm that Riv sells on the
seatstay bridge on a Bombadil, for the rear brake?
The only thing that makes me hesitate is the possibility of destroying the
seatstay
The bolt it comes with is too long. You'd have to find a shorter one. It
might have too much forward reach for the rear brakes; I can't tell you
if the spacing matches up front to rear.
The seatpost binder bolt ones will be easier to install and better looking,
imho.
On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at
I will add that DIY tubeless has worked very well for my Fargo, allowing
me to use very, very light (360 gram!) Furious Freds in goathead country.
The rims, SnoCat SLs, have quarter-sized holes around the perimeter for
lightening, and tires tend to fit loosely on them. Stevie's built up the
rim
I think the pressure on the cable stop is significant. Have you ever
watched the way a stamped steel front cable hanger bends when you apply the
brake? I switched mine from steel to Al to eliminate the flex, which made
the front brake feel significantly firmer.
If I recall correctly the Simple
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