I don't have any special insight to Rivendell's thinking, but I will guess
that cantilever bosses add cost. If you don't need to run extra large tires
(42mm seems to be around the limit for Tektro's R559), then why incur the
cost? The fork crown already has a cast-in brake hole, and all
Like Doug says, penetrating oil.
I have a drawer full of various sized slot head screwdrivers, jamming one into
an Allen head screw works to turn the screw because the blade spans the widest
points of the hex.
I use that method prior to actually stripping the Allen head or cutting a slot.
WD-40 is a water dispersing agent. Try some form of liquid wrench,
penetrating oil or similar product intended to loosen stubborn objects. In
my experience, it needs several hours to soak in, sometimes overnight or a
couple of applications to work.
dougP
On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at
Lots of folks are intimidated by cantilever brakes. That's just a fact. In
any case, until you get beyond 42mm tires, centerpulls work fine--my Dia
Compes allow the easy installation and removal of a 700x43 BG Rock and Road
with no deflation. Not sure what the clearance is for the biggest
[image: Image result for legolas bicycle]
On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 4:51:28 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> For me on a "road bike" build sans a stack of racks and bags, the choice
> would be aesthetics: I think a lightish steel road bike looks "right" with
> sidepulls.
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Ergon biocork? I think that's are area that would be ok to introduce a bit
of heat - I'd go for that before adding more torque to the bolt head -
maybe lighter/butane lighter grade heat, not torch heat. If'n that fails,
I'd drip a bit more oil in there and go with short turning motions with the
I stripped a hex key style crank arm dust cap recently. I think I used a
paperclip or something slim to wedge in along with the wrench. It worked.
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I suppose at some point if you made them really really *really* long, you'd
be in danger of the front of the bike running into the back of the bike.
But this is probably only a theoretical problem. Just remember what the
good Duchess of Windsor said, "You can never have too many Rivs, and
Thanks, Patrick! That is exactly the direction I was headed. But I
paused...just in case someone had any more "proper tools" ideas I had missed.
Chris Johnson
Sanger, Texas
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The inanimate are a peculiar bunch and sometimes need, especially under
conditions such as actual use, motivations outside standard practices. When
proper tools fail, I fall back to duct tape and my Buck knife. If those fail,
it’s a rock as a hammer, the Buck knife or screwdriver as a chisel,
So I snugged the small hex screw (that holds the grip to the bar) down nice
and tight, then rode (and sweated) for a couple of years. Now I want to
remove my Ergon grips to install some new brake levers. But the screws
don't move. So far I've sprayed the screw with WD40 I had handy. My hex
Bag is sold. Thanks Bob, enjoy!
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Any idea when these will be available? I don’t need one, but I NEED one.
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Interesting; just realized my canti-Sam has longer (slightly) chainstays than
my Long Haul Trucker...
rod
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> Here is a person who extended the chainstays 25cm. of a donor mtb into a
> long tail cargo bike . Pretty cool !
http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/vehicles/cargobike/cargobikeindex.htm
Of course ... many cargo bikes have very long chainstays . The only
on-road differences I suppose
I’m still interested in the answers to “how long is too long?” and “what
are the drawbacks to long, as long as it’s not too long?”
My recent Appaloosa experience only confirms (for me at least) that Riv
long doesn’t seem to be too long.
Hugh “long in the tooth” Flynn
Newburyport, MA
On Tue,
One thing to note is that Jobst rode a very large frame, 64cm or maybe
taller. So shorter chainstays had him sitting over the rear wheel. We all
experience our own reality, and generalize from there. I remember Brian
Baylis claiming that Colnago's rode significantly better than other Italian
Welcome. That’s a great introduction and write up. Enjoy the Clem.
Erl
Kensington, MD
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Cranks were from the '90s 8-speed group, I bought 'em NOS for an obscene amount
of money. Since sold at probably a huge loss. Money comes, money goes!
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Thanks! BTW that crank is beautiful. Is it new(ish)? If so, where did you
find a square-taper XT crank?
On Monday, May 28, 2018 at 3:24:07 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Yep, those are M6 bolts, same as the bigger ones used on the front
> mounting blocks for struts on your Pletscher rack.
I’m looking for the old style 32F front rack that was a front light tab. Let me
know if you have one in good shape that you’d be willing to part with.
Isaac
PDX
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Price drop...$40 shipped
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I would say to Riv's business model that they strive on carrying 1-2
variations of an item and they pick those because they think they are the
best. Sort of eliminates the need for a star system.
HOWEVER! Having review/comment space about ride quality, or a place for
people to post their builds
AHA! I missed that! Don't I feel silly now. :D
I guess I was looking for the typical 'stars' or whatever up near the
product name rather than down at the bottom.
And I see that is also where you can leave a review of your own.
Thanks!
On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 1:16:44 PM UTC-5, David B
Bill, I definitely meant option B!
Eamon
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Aha! I missed that! Don't I feel silly now. :D
Guess I was looking for the typical "stars" or whatever up above by the
item name or something like that.
Now for what is probably another dumb question... how does one leave a
review?
Thanks!
On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 1:16:44 PM UTC-5, David B
Towards Deacon's point, I bought a hammock at REI and tried to sleep
overnight in my backyard. I just couldn't do it. Laying on my back my
knees hyperextending was unpleasant to the point that I moved inside. I
sleep outside on a flat mini-deck in my backyard several times per summer,
but I
Patrick, good point about the actual or perceived weight savings. My bigger
concern is space. I've got a light backpacking tent, but it is bulky. I can
stuff the hammock, extra long straps, and sleeping bag in one small
pannier, whereas I can't with a tent and sleeping bag and air mattress.
I
Hunqapillar has 11 reviews, going back at least 6 years, so reviews have
carried over from previous iterations of the site.
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/framesets/products/hunqapillar#shopify-product-reviews
With abandon,
Patrick
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Hey Brett ... as you allude to, hammocks are fantastic ... until they aren’t.
When aren’t they?
1. When trees don’t cooperate by being where you want to camp, or spaced right
(long lines help this)
2. Below xx˚F, at which point you have to haul insulation for outside/below
you. For me, that
Eamon said "I do hope all the Taiwan bikes don't go to that extreme"
That could mean one of two things
A. I hope that ZERO Taiwan-made Rivendell models have a chainstay length
of >50cm in any framesize
B. I hope that there remain one or more Taiwan-made Rivendell models that
are touring
This is a review section for every item. At the bottom of the description,
click on reviews and it'll show them. Not every product has a review, I'd
say most products don't have reviews, but there certainly is a space for it.
David
River Grove, IL
On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 11:08:07 AM UTC-5,
Hey Tim, great point about insulation. I've slept in a hammock overnight
before and not had that problem, but it was in July. I'm thinking that one
of those silvery emergency blanket type things might make for a good
lightweight insulator.
Incidentally, if you're free next weekend and want to
Sold and shipped.
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Morning, Brett!
I'm testing a set up right now. I'd suggest either finding a way to have
insulation beneath the hammock or using an sleeping pad inside the hammock. If
you don't do that, all the insulation from your bag will be squished and you'll
have a cold butt. No fun. If you can, give it
This wouldn't happen to be yours?
https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/53229637
On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 1:39:57 AM UTC-4, LeRoy wrote:
>
>
> This is my first post and follows the initial shakedown ride on my
> new-to-me second-hand Clem Smith Jr. I'll make the short story long. I
> returned
i didn't read every comment so apologies if this has been said, but
something that has happened to me in the past is the shift cable end that
pops out of the front derailer ends up bending out, then every pedal stroke
can pluck it and make a noise at that particular point in the crank
You guys are correct. I didn't consider the context of Jobst's comments,
and what length of stays were even available in that era. Obviously, as
those of you who were even more familiar with his contributions and
philosophy than me realized, he was pretty outspoken about this too. The
I think the models are also between sizes so it would allow Rivendell to
provide better sizing with the MTT bikes. I hear a lot of folks complain when
they fall between the size recommendations for a MTT bike. The Brake and wheel
size change seem to just add a little more variation.
I looked
I think every model should have a duplicate in a different color with disc
brakes. Grant probably disagrees! ;-)
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I believe consolidating to canti/v-brakes posts on all models would
actually add, rather than reduce, redundancy. Riv has a small but rather
varied line-up but one thing I think really sets them apart is the fact
that even the Roadini/Roadeo are designed and made to handle more
Love the report thanks for sharing.
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Another Michigan Riv rider! Congrats on your new ride. I love my 1st gen
Clem. I share your horror at a self-tapping sheet metal screw being used
anywhere on the bike. Glad you could remedy that easily.
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They had it on the previous iteration of the site.
-J
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Much appreciated, Peter!
On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 7:56:59 AM UTC-4, Peter White wrote:
>
> We've always used a 50mm cap screw for Rivendells with lights and fenders.
> Here's an example showing how you would figure it out.
>
> I have an Atlanta here from about 2002 when they were built in
Just curious. I like seeing user reviews of products.
Riv's site is probably unique from most other online shops because pretty
much ever single product chosen are great products that Grant and team
would choose for themselves.
But even hearing things like why someone chose that particular item
I've had several mystery click battles in recent years on a few different
bikes. The culprits were (in no particular order) front derailer cable tag
end/crimp clicking the crank each rotation, loose spokes, a worn out pedal,
creaking saddle nose (which I eventually learned to live with,)
Sorry I didn't read through every post, just now seeing this thread.
But every single time this has happened to me, it was a loose pedal. And by
"loose" I mean not reay tight in the crank arm.
Once I grabbed the pedal wrench and really "cranked" down on it, seeing
even just smidge of a turn,
I don't think canti's look wrong on most any bike, but there's plenty of
reasons to use side of center pull brakes. Brazing on cantilever posts also
cost more. I think they strike pretty good balance on the brake styles.
Eamon
Seattle
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1983 Trek 720's and 850's had 47 and 48.5 cm stays, respectively. I suspect
those were the maximum length you could get. Great riding bikes. I think most
people would objectively consider those long chainstays, and that's about in
the range of the current Waterford Atlantis. I doubt Jobst's
Hi all, I'm heading out this weekend for a 2 day trip with some friends and
planning to take a hammock and inflatable pillow instead of my usual tent
setup that I use for backpacking. The only other times I've camped via bike
I've lugged the tent, but I'm going for lighter this time around.
Why stop with brakes? Maybe Riv should just have one model, all things for
all people right? Your choice whether you want to run 23 mm tires or 63 mm
tires! One frame tubing spec, one wheel size, for all! Any color you
want, as long as it is grilliver?
/sarcasm
I agree with the poster that
We should also remember that it was Grant that convinced Tektro to start
producing the R559 (aka "Silver") caliper with it's 55-76mm reach and
clearance for ~38mm tires and fenders, and this brake was basically the
raison d'etre for the first A. Homer Hilsens. So it makes sense that he
would
I believe cantis means Riv would have to make tubing choices to accommodate
the stress on the fork and seat stay. When I was looking at getting a MUSA
AHH but a canti version, they told me that the fork and seat stay would
have to be beefed up a little and if I was okay with that.
On Monday,
Sold
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I mounted a Clem rack on my fat bike with 3.8" tires - easy install.
Just drill out the rivets that attach the rear struts to the rack. Attach
the rear struts to the side rail mounts with bolts. If you want to run side
rails also, just use longer bolts and use a spacer on the front side
rail
We've always used a 50mm cap screw for Rivendells with lights and fenders.
Here's an example showing how you would figure it out.
I have an Atlanta here from about 2002 when they were built in Japan. The
crown is 32mm thick. The Busch & Müller mount you refer to (my part number
B) is 4.2mm thick
Congratulations on your new to you bike. Also thanks for the write up. I
like reading stories like you have written.
As for getting on your bike, it is sometimes easier to angle the bike
towards yourself so that it lowers the height that you have to swing your
leg over.
>
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Congratulations! I think you'll enjoy the C19 - I've got it my Clem - the
dimensions are closer to a B17 than the C17 is, oddly enough. The cambium
is a bit springy: combined with huge tires and a long wheelbase...it's
heaven. Keep us updated.
-Jacob
BK
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Leroy,
Welcome to the group. Great story and not to long since it answers most
questions readers would have had with a more concise story.
Alway glad to add another RBW rider to the mitten state.
Sincerely,
Ryan Hankinson
West Michigan
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