[RBW] Re: It’s dull around here, let me bring some color

[Joe Bernard]

Joyce, what's funny is I got shiney new all silver wheels from Rich @ Riv 
yesterday. I didn't even bother to show them on my "Joe's Custom" thread 
because Leah's came today and I'm crazy about HER multicolor-spectacular wheels!

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[RBW] Re: It’s dull around here, let me bring some color

[JAS]

Leah, you have gone and done it now.the colors are brilliant and I can 
hardly wait to hear how your Clem rides with these new wheels.  I don't 
want to be envious, but I will be anyway. What a beautiful pair of new 
"shoes" sporting all the colors of the rainbow much like your sandals.  
Your bike is going to stand out with those bright hubs and the light 
housing.  Of course, you had to carry the color theme through with your 
accessorizing (repair kit and other stuff).  Pure wonderfulness! 
Congratulations!

--Joyce
#RivSisters

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Re: [RBW] Re: It’s dull around here, let me bring some color

[Joe Bernard]

It's all impossibly cool and rad and other words denoting coolness and radness 
I can't think of right now. Check out the spoke nipples, they look like the 
stages of a sunset! 

I can't wait to see this built up and in a hundred pics and videos on 
Instagram. Bring it! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: It’s dull around here, let me bring some color

[Shoji Takahashi]

"I’m going to ride and be satisfied " famous last words that I say 
every few years.

tailwinds, 
shoji



On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 11:38:36 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> Doug,
>
> Well. You’re not wrong. But you know what else? I blame all of you. I used 
> to be a perfectly reasonable person (with a disconcerting affinity for 
> sparkle), but now look at how things have gotten. I was tickled to swap my 
> Walmart Special for a Betty Foy and I was happy for so many years. But then 
> I started haunting this place and hearing about long chainstays and higher 
> bars and fancy wheels and now I have Rainbow Brite wheels that cost more 
> than my bike. 
>
> I regret nothing. Those wheels are so 朗.
>
> But, mark my words, after this bike and the mixte (which I’m still hoping 
> isn’t a ‘Pus) I’m swearing off improvements. I’m going to ride and be 
> satisfied and immune to all the bike charms. For at least 10 years...
>
> Hold me to this,
> Leah
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 20, 2020, at 8:28 PM, dougP > 
> wrote:
>
> 
> Welcome to the rabbit hole of bike nerdery.  I suspected a developing case 
> when you gave up the Best Bicycle in the Whole World (did I get that 
> right?) for the Clementine.  
>
> dougP
>
> On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 6:41:10 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>>
>> Friends, 
>>
>> I have one bike to ride. It’s a Clementine with mostly stock parts, and 
>> it’s heavy. 
>>
>> I love it. 
>>
>> I have been riding nearly every day and I’ve got 997.9 miles on it for 
>> 2020! The hills here are brutal, and the temps are approaching triple 
>> digits. So, I want to ride at night, and I want to get up the hills more 
>> easily. James and Candice at Analog Cycles in Vermont have showcased their 
>> beautiful work on Instagram, and I’ve long been an admirer. #RivSister 
>> Roberta knows them and had planned to have them do similar work on her 
>> Appaloosa (I’m sure she’ll delight us with her story here when the time 
>> comes), and because we girls tend to stick together, I got in touch with 
>> Analog. Dyno lighting and lighter wheels with tubeless tires were what was 
>> decided. 
>>
>> So, here’s one photo from Analog that can’t do these wheels one whit of 
>> justice; the wheels arrived today and they are showstoppers in real life. I 
>> am going to follow up right after this post with a video (2nd post 
>> necessary for video to work, I don’t know why) that you can access if you 
>> choose to download it. The video is the only way to really capture any of 
>> the beauty in these wheels. I told them to go wild with color, and they 
>> did. I think the bold colors and patterns capture the zany nature of a 
>> Clem. 
>>
>> Don’t ask me what all the details are, who KNOWS, this is me you’re 
>> talking to. I do know I got tubeless Gravel Kings (Evan Elliot, I think 
>> these were your suggestion months ago), something about machined sidewalls, 
>> Shutter Precision/Edelux II, Son rear light. Oh, enough, what really 
>> matters here is there are COLORED SPOKE NIPPLES AND VALVE STEMS. And guess 
>> what they do? They fade into other colors because Analog is a straight-up 
>> master of color. These wheels are a lot, which is saying something for a 
>> woman whose favorite color is sparkle. I LOVE them. More is more. Too much 
>> is enough. And so on... 
>>
>> Tomorrow, I’m taking my bike in for a list of stuff I’m having done to 
>> it, and I really hope the mechanics know how to set up dyno lighting - I’ve 
>> been burned by Vegas bike shops before, and this is a new shop for me. See 
>> the Wiggly Fender thread.  
>>
>> More later when everything is on the bike and I have gotten to ride it. 
>>
>> Thanks for looking, this is made even more fun in the presence of like 
>> minds. 
>> Leah 
>>
>>
>> -- 
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> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: It’s dull around here, let me bring some color

[Leah Peterson]

Doug,

Well. You’re not wrong. But you know what else? I blame all of you. I used to 
be a perfectly reasonable person (with a disconcerting affinity for sparkle), 
but now look at how things have gotten. I was tickled to swap my Walmart 
Special for a Betty Foy and I was happy for so many years. But then I started 
haunting this place and hearing about long chainstays and higher bars and fancy 
wheels and now I have Rainbow Brite wheels that cost more than my bike. 

I regret nothing. Those wheels are so 朗.

But, mark my words, after this bike and the mixte (which I’m still hoping isn’t 
a ‘Pus) I’m swearing off improvements. I’m going to ride and be satisfied and 
immune to all the bike charms. For at least 10 years...

Hold me to this,
Leah
Sent from my iPad

> On May 20, 2020, at 8:28 PM, dougP  wrote:
> 
> 
> Welcome to the rabbit hole of bike nerdery.  I suspected a developing case 
> when you gave up the Best Bicycle in the Whole World (did I get that right?) 
> for the Clementine.  
> 
> dougP
> 
>> On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 6:41:10 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>> Friends, 
>> 
>> I have one bike to ride. It’s a Clementine with mostly stock parts, and it’s 
>> heavy. 
>> 
>> I love it. 
>> 
>> I have been riding nearly every day and I’ve got 997.9 miles on it for 2020! 
>> The hills here are brutal, and the temps are approaching triple digits. So, 
>> I want to ride at night, and I want to get up the hills more easily. James 
>> and Candice at Analog Cycles in Vermont have showcased their beautiful work 
>> on Instagram, and I’ve long been an admirer. #RivSister Roberta knows them 
>> and had planned to have them do similar work on her Appaloosa (I’m sure 
>> she’ll delight us with her story here when the time comes), and because we 
>> girls tend to stick together, I got in touch with Analog. Dyno lighting and 
>> lighter wheels with tubeless tires were what was decided. 
>> 
>> So, here’s one photo from Analog that can’t do these wheels one whit of 
>> justice; the wheels arrived today and they are showstoppers in real life. I 
>> am going to follow up right after this post with a video (2nd post necessary 
>> for video to work, I don’t know why) that you can access if you choose to 
>> download it. The video is the only way to really capture any of the beauty 
>> in these wheels. I told them to go wild with color, and they did. I think 
>> the bold colors and patterns capture the zany nature of a Clem. 
>> 
>> Don’t ask me what all the details are, who KNOWS, this is me you’re talking 
>> to. I do know I got tubeless Gravel Kings (Evan Elliot, I think these were 
>> your suggestion months ago), something about machined sidewalls, Shutter 
>> Precision/Edelux II, Son rear light. Oh, enough, what really matters here is 
>> there are COLORED SPOKE NIPPLES AND VALVE STEMS. And guess what they do? 
>> They fade into other colors because Analog is a straight-up master of color. 
>> These wheels are a lot, which is saying something for a woman whose favorite 
>> color is sparkle. I LOVE them. More is more. Too much is enough. And so 
>> on... 
>> 
>> Tomorrow, I’m taking my bike in for a list of stuff I’m having done to it, 
>> and I really hope the mechanics know how to set up dyno lighting - I’ve been 
>> burned by Vegas bike shops before, and this is a new shop for me. See the 
>> Wiggly Fender thread.  
>> 
>> More later when everything is on the bike and I have gotten to ride it. 
>> 
>> Thanks for looking, this is made even more fun in the presence of like 
>> minds. 
>> Leah 
>> 
>> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: It’s dull around here, let me bring some color

[dougP]

Welcome to the rabbit hole of bike nerdery.  I suspected a developing case 
when you gave up the Best Bicycle in the Whole World (did I get that 
right?) for the Clementine.  

dougP

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 6:41:10 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> Friends, 
>
> I have one bike to ride. It’s a Clementine with mostly stock parts, and 
> it’s heavy. 
>
> I love it. 
>
> I have been riding nearly every day and I’ve got 997.9 miles on it for 
> 2020! The hills here are brutal, and the temps are approaching triple 
> digits. So, I want to ride at night, and I want to get up the hills more 
> easily. James and Candice at Analog Cycles in Vermont have showcased their 
> beautiful work on Instagram, and I’ve long been an admirer. #RivSister 
> Roberta knows them and had planned to have them do similar work on her 
> Appaloosa (I’m sure she’ll delight us with her story here when the time 
> comes), and because we girls tend to stick together, I got in touch with 
> Analog. Dyno lighting and lighter wheels with tubeless tires were what was 
> decided. 
>
> So, here’s one photo from Analog that can’t do these wheels one whit of 
> justice; the wheels arrived today and they are showstoppers in real life. I 
> am going to follow up right after this post with a video (2nd post 
> necessary for video to work, I don’t know why) that you can access if you 
> choose to download it. The video is the only way to really capture any of 
> the beauty in these wheels. I told them to go wild with color, and they 
> did. I think the bold colors and patterns capture the zany nature of a 
> Clem. 
>
> Don’t ask me what all the details are, who KNOWS, this is me you’re 
> talking to. I do know I got tubeless Gravel Kings (Evan Elliot, I think 
> these were your suggestion months ago), something about machined sidewalls, 
> Shutter Precision/Edelux II, Son rear light. Oh, enough, what really 
> matters here is there are COLORED SPOKE NIPPLES AND VALVE STEMS. And guess 
> what they do? They fade into other colors because Analog is a straight-up 
> master of color. These wheels are a lot, which is saying something for a 
> woman whose favorite color is sparkle. I LOVE them. More is more. Too much 
> is enough. And so on... 
>
> Tomorrow, I’m taking my bike in for a list of stuff I’m having done to it, 
> and I really hope the mechanics know how to set up dyno lighting - I’ve 
> been burned by Vegas bike shops before, and this is a new shop for me. See 
> the Wiggly Fender thread.  
>
> More later when everything is on the bike and I have gotten to ride it. 
>
> Thanks for looking, this is made even more fun in the presence of like 
> minds. 
> Leah 
>
>
>

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[RBW] PSA legolas

[maxcr]

No connection to the seller, wish it was bigger: 
https://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/bik/d/weston-rivendell-legolas-lugged-steel/7127317892.html
Max, lusting after a bike I don’t need

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[RBW] Re: New batch of Sam Hillbornes this fall.

[Surlyprof]

I own the original Hillborne orange (maybe 2009 or ‘10) which is almost 
pearlescent shifting to shades of gold in the sunlight.  I love both the color 
and fit of that second generation size 56 frame (when they shifted the top tube 
down to 57.5). That said, I thought the black and cream was one of Riv’s 
sharpest color schemes.  And, if my Sam had a longer chainstay, I think I’d 
still love it every bit as much or more.  I have tried some of those longer 
chainstay Rivs and there’s something about them that is really appealing.

John
Niles, CA

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Re: [RBW] It’s dull around here, let me bring some color

[Brendan Willard]

They really did paint with all the colors of the wind! ❤️李

Speaking in Thumbs 

> On May 20, 2020, at 6:42 PM, Leah Peterson  wrote:
> 
> And the accessories that shipped with the wheels:
> 
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> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 20, 2020, at 6:41 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Friends,
>> 
>> I have one bike to ride. It’s a Clementine with mostly stock parts, and it’s 
>> heavy. 
>> 
>> I love it. 
>> 
>> I have been riding nearly every day and I’ve got 997.9 miles on it for 2020! 
>> The hills here are brutal, and the temps are approaching triple digits. So, 
>> I want to ride at night, and I want to get up the hills more easily. James 
>> and Candice at Analog Cycles in Vermont have showcased their beautiful work 
>> on Instagram, and I’ve long been an admirer. #RivSister Roberta knows them 
>> and had planned to have them do similar work on her Appaloosa (I’m sure 
>> she’ll delight us with her story here when the time comes), and because we 
>> girls tend to stick together, I got in touch with Analog. Dyno lighting and 
>> lighter wheels with tubeless tires were what was decided.
>> 
>> So, here’s one photo from Analog that can’t do these wheels one whit of 
>> justice; the wheels arrived today and they are showstoppers in real life. I 
>> am going to follow up right after this post with a video (2nd post necessary 
>> for video to work, I don’t know why) that you can access if you choose to 
>> download it. The video is the only way to really capture any of the beauty 
>> in these wheels. I told them to go wild with color, and they did. I think 
>> the bold colors and patterns capture the zany nature of a Clem.
>> 
>> Don’t ask me what all the details are, who KNOWS, this is me you’re talking 
>> to. I do know I got tubeless Gravel Kings (Evan Elliot, I think these were 
>> your suggestion months ago), something about machined sidewalls, Shutter 
>> Precision/Edelux II, Son rear light. Oh, enough, what really matters here is 
>> there are COLORED SPOKE NIPPLES AND VALVE STEMS. And guess what they do? 
>> They fade into other colors because Analog is a straight-up master of color. 
>> These wheels are a lot, which is saying something for a woman whose favorite 
>> color is sparkle. I LOVE them. More is more. Too much is enough. And so on...
>> 
>> Tomorrow, I’m taking my bike in for a list of stuff I’m having done to it, 
>> and I really hope the mechanics know how to set up dyno lighting - I’ve been 
>> burned by Vegas bike shops before, and this is a new shop for me. See the 
>> Wiggly Fender thread.  
>> 
>> More later when everything is on the bike and I have gotten to ride it.
>> 
>> Thanks for looking, this is made even more fun in the presence of like minds.
>> Leah
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
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>> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Congratulations, Scott! I may have missed some details, so apologies in 
advance if a suggestion is off.

I love my bullmoose bars on my QB. They shine on all routes and especially 
so on singletrack or technical dirt roads. Albastache bars are excellent, 
but on technical descents, the brakes are in the drops, making weighting 
the rear of the bike harder. Still, very ridable.

Gearing: I live on Pikes Peak. Ain't nuffin' flat here. Here is what I ride 
for everything:

I'm pretty sure my silver QB is 120 rear spacing, so you may want to 
confirm that. I have a Paul 120 track hub and a 18/21 dingle cog with a 44t 
chain ring, yielding a 57" low and 70" high. The 57" is great gearing for a 
go fast cross bike. Rene Herse Stelacoom tires are brilliant. WIthout a 
dingle cog, I'd run an 18t freewheel and 21 or 22t fixed cog for 
trails/steeps.

SS and Fixed cultivate the mentality of ride till you can't, walk till you 
can. LCG (lowest common gear, the gear every bike comes with) is always an 
option, and one you will always use, more so while you build up your 
muscles and stamina for SS and fixed. Expect this and allow it to jsut be 
part of the ride, because ... it is. Grin. Enjoy!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 7:00:05 PM UTC-6, Scott Calhoun wrote:
>
> And by pimp I mean, "make into a functional and kinda handsome bicycle." I 
> always wanted a Quickbeam, and I've just missed a few for sale here. Last 
> week a friend alerted me that our own Reid Echols was putting out feelers 
> on Instagram about selling his 64cm QB. Long story short, a frameset is 
> headed my way.
>
> In preparation, I've been futzing in the parts bins, and thinking about 
> the build. I realized that it's been a good long while since I built up a 
> single speed--way back in 2011 when I did up a dumpster find Trek 720 frame 
> for my daughter's college bike. I'm getting the F/F/HS, so I have some 
> decisions to make. The frame has been re-spaced in the rear to 130mm OLN.
>
> A bit of info about my likely use-case scenarios. I live about 16 miles 
> from the center of town, and almost all my rides are longish. I do run 
> errands to the Post Office (7 miles round trip) and store (around 12), but 
> most of my rides are at least 25 miles. I'll also jump on dirt roads when I 
> can. Tucson is pretty flat in the valley, but we are surrounded on all 
> sides by mountains. If I want to climb, I can. On my geared bikes, my 
> average speed is16.5-18.5mph for rides up to 65 miles or so (I mention this 
> only for purposes of helping me decide gearing--see below).
>
> Parts I have:
>
>- SKF 110 bottom bracket
>- Beat up but functional Campy Record Double 172.5 crankset 135bcd 
>with various rings, mostly of the 53/39 variety
>- Nitto F32 front Rack just picked up from RBW member Joe Lonner
>- A set of vintage Mafac Canti brakes f/r
>- A nice light set silver set of Ritchey Classic tubeless compatible 
>wheels (1440 grams!)
>- Nitto Pearl 100mm stem, maybe a 110 too
>- Nitto Noodle 46cm (or maybe 44cm?) bars
>- Gravel King SK 38mm and 43mm TLC tires (a pair of each)
>
> Reid had it built at least two ways, both really attractive to my eye 
> (photos to follow): one with drops, one with risers. Seeing that I have 
> Noodles already, I'll likely just use those initially. I'm generally a drop 
> bar guy anyhow. So, my main questions are drivetrain/gearing.
>
>- Should I keep the rear spacing at 130mm and use a Surly Speed Spacer 
>kit: https://surlybikes.com/parts/spacer_kit
>- Or respace to 120mm (I also have a 120 fixed/free hub I could build 
>up).
>- Suggestions for gearing set ups. I noticed that I can buy 46t and 
>48t rings for the Campy 135bcd crankset I have. I typically ride bikes 
> with 
>a 46/48/49 tooth big ring and don't get out of the big ring in the valley. 
>Chain is somewhere mid-cassette. 
>- What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What 
>would Grant's preferred set up be?
>- What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 
>- Tell me about basket life? I've mostly done rando bag set ups, but 
>maybe one of those Wald racer baskets on this? What do you put in the 
>basket to keep your sh** from falling through the holes? 
>
> So many choices for such a "simple" bike, right?
>
> Scott Calhoun
> Tucson, AZ
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Sun Protection in Sunny Climes

[masmojo]

Mixed use trail in uptown Dallas 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katy_Trail_(Dallas)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Robert Gardner]

I have the same QB and run a Marks rack with Wald large basket up front. Added 
a sackville and it is what I use to grocery shop. 

I also added a carradice bagman and swift zeitgeist under the saddle and that 
works for my work/gym stuff. 

I also recommend honjos — they look awful nice on the silver QB...

You have a darn nice bike there!

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 20, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Scott Calhoun  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 6:00:05 PM UTC-7, Scott Calhoun wrote:
>> And by pimp I mean, "make into a functional and kinda handsome bicycle." I 
>> always wanted a Quickbeam, and I've just missed a few for sale here. Last 
>> week a friend alerted me that our own Reid Echols was putting out feelers on 
>> Instagram about selling his 64cm QB. Long story short, a frameset is headed 
>> my way.
>> 
>> In preparation, I've been futzing in the parts bins, and thinking about the 
>> build. I realized that it's been a good long while since I built up a single 
>> speed--way back in 2011 when I did up a dumpster find Trek 720 frame for my 
>> daughter's college bike. I'm getting the F/F/HS, so I have some decisions to 
>> make. The frame has been re-spaced in the rear to 130mm OLN.
>> 
>> A bit of info about my likely use-case scenarios. I live about 16 miles from 
>> the center of town, and almost all my rides are longish. I do run errands to 
>> the Post Office (7 miles round trip) and store (around 12), but most of my 
>> rides are at least 25 miles. I'll also jump on dirt roads when I can. Tucson 
>> is pretty flat in the valley, but we are surrounded on all sides by 
>> mountains. If I want to climb, I can. On my geared bikes, my average speed 
>> is16.5-18.5mph for rides up to 65 miles or so (I mention this only for 
>> purposes of helping me decide gearing--see below).
>> 
>> Parts I have:
>> SKF 110 bottom bracket
>> Beat up but functional Campy Record Double 172.5 crankset 135bcd with 
>> various rings, mostly of the 53/39 variety
>> Nitto F32 front Rack just picked up from RBW member Joe Lonner
>> A set of vintage Mafac Canti brakes f/r
>> A nice light set silver set of Ritchey Classic tubeless compatible wheels 
>> (1440 grams!)
>> Nitto Pearl 100mm stem, maybe a 110 too
>> Nitto Noodle 46cm (or maybe 44cm?) bars
>> Gravel King SK 38mm and 43mm TLC tires (a pair of each)
>> Reid had it built at least two ways, both really attractive to my eye 
>> (photos to follow): one with drops, one with risers. Seeing that I have 
>> Noodles already, I'll likely just use those initially. I'm generally a drop 
>> bar guy anyhow. So, my main questions are drivetrain/gearing.
>> Should I keep the rear spacing at 130mm and use a Surly Speed Spacer kit: 
>> https://surlybikes.com/parts/spacer_kit
>> Or respace to 120mm (I also have a 120 fixed/free hub I could build up).
>> Suggestions for gearing set ups. I noticed that I can buy 46t and 48t rings 
>> for the Campy 135bcd crankset I have. I typically ride bikes with a 46/48/49 
>> tooth big ring and don't get out of the big ring in the valley. Chain is 
>> somewhere mid-cassette. 
>> What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What would 
>> Grant's preferred set up be?
>> What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 
>> Tell me about basket life? I've mostly done rando bag set ups, but maybe one 
>> of those Wald racer baskets on this? What do you put in the basket to keep 
>> your sh** from falling through the holes? 
>> So many choices for such a "simple" bike, right?
>> 
>> Scott Calhoun
>> Tucson, AZ
>> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Scott Calhoun]

[image: IMG_6143.jpg]

[image: IMG_6142.jpg]


On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 6:00:05 PM UTC-7, Scott Calhoun wrote:
>
> And by pimp I mean, "make into a functional and kinda handsome bicycle." I 
> always wanted a Quickbeam, and I've just missed a few for sale here. Last 
> week a friend alerted me that our own Reid Echols was putting out feelers 
> on Instagram about selling his 64cm QB. Long story short, a frameset is 
> headed my way.
>
> In preparation, I've been futzing in the parts bins, and thinking about 
> the build. I realized that it's been a good long while since I built up a 
> single speed--way back in 2011 when I did up a dumpster find Trek 720 frame 
> for my daughter's college bike. I'm getting the F/F/HS, so I have some 
> decisions to make. The frame has been re-spaced in the rear to 130mm OLN.
>
> A bit of info about my likely use-case scenarios. I live about 16 miles 
> from the center of town, and almost all my rides are longish. I do run 
> errands to the Post Office (7 miles round trip) and store (around 12), but 
> most of my rides are at least 25 miles. I'll also jump on dirt roads when I 
> can. Tucson is pretty flat in the valley, but we are surrounded on all 
> sides by mountains. If I want to climb, I can. On my geared bikes, my 
> average speed is16.5-18.5mph for rides up to 65 miles or so (I mention this 
> only for purposes of helping me decide gearing--see below).
>
> Parts I have:
>
>- SKF 110 bottom bracket
>- Beat up but functional Campy Record Double 172.5 crankset 135bcd 
>with various rings, mostly of the 53/39 variety
>- Nitto F32 front Rack just picked up from RBW member Joe Lonner
>- A set of vintage Mafac Canti brakes f/r
>- A nice light set silver set of Ritchey Classic tubeless compatible 
>wheels (1440 grams!)
>- Nitto Pearl 100mm stem, maybe a 110 too
>- Nitto Noodle 46cm (or maybe 44cm?) bars
>- Gravel King SK 38mm and 43mm TLC tires (a pair of each)
>
> Reid had it built at least two ways, both really attractive to my eye 
> (photos to follow): one with drops, one with risers. Seeing that I have 
> Noodles already, I'll likely just use those initially. I'm generally a drop 
> bar guy anyhow. So, my main questions are drivetrain/gearing.
>
>- Should I keep the rear spacing at 130mm and use a Surly Speed Spacer 
>kit: https://surlybikes.com/parts/spacer_kit
>- Or respace to 120mm (I also have a 120 fixed/free hub I could build 
>up).
>- Suggestions for gearing set ups. I noticed that I can buy 46t and 
>48t rings for the Campy 135bcd crankset I have. I typically ride bikes 
> with 
>a 46/48/49 tooth big ring and don't get out of the big ring in the valley. 
>Chain is somewhere mid-cassette. 
>- What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What 
>would Grant's preferred set up be?
>- What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 
>- Tell me about basket life? I've mostly done rando bag set ups, but 
>maybe one of those Wald racer baskets on this? What do you put in the 
>basket to keep your sh** from falling through the holes? 
>
> So many choices for such a "simple" bike, right?
>
> Scott Calhoun
> Tucson, AZ
>
>

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[RBW] Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Scott Calhoun]

And by pimp I mean, "make into a functional and kinda handsome bicycle." I 
always wanted a Quickbeam, and I've just missed a few for sale here. Last 
week a friend alerted me that our own Reid Echols was putting out feelers 
on Instagram about selling his 64cm QB. Long story short, a frameset is 
headed my way.

In preparation, I've been futzing in the parts bins, and thinking about the 
build. I realized that it's been a good long while since I built up a 
single speed--way back in 2011 when I did up a dumpster find Trek 720 frame 
for my daughter's college bike. I'm getting the F/F/HS, so I have some 
decisions to make. The frame has been re-spaced in the rear to 130mm OLN.

A bit of info about my likely use-case scenarios. I live about 16 miles 
from the center of town, and almost all my rides are longish. I do run 
errands to the Post Office (7 miles round trip) and store (around 12), but 
most of my rides are at least 25 miles. I'll also jump on dirt roads when I 
can. Tucson is pretty flat in the valley, but we are surrounded on all 
sides by mountains. If I want to climb, I can. On my geared bikes, my 
average speed is16.5-18.5mph for rides up to 65 miles or so (I mention this 
only for purposes of helping me decide gearing--see below).

Parts I have:

   - SKF 110 bottom bracket
   - Beat up but functional Campy Record Double 172.5 crankset 135bcd with 
   various rings, mostly of the 53/39 variety
   - Nitto F32 front Rack just picked up from RBW member Joe Lonner
   - A set of vintage Mafac Canti brakes f/r
   - A nice light set silver set of Ritchey Classic tubeless compatible 
   wheels (1440 grams!)
   - Nitto Pearl 100mm stem, maybe a 110 too
   - Nitto Noodle 46cm (or maybe 44cm?) bars
   - Gravel King SK 38mm and 43mm TLC tires (a pair of each)

Reid had it built at least two ways, both really attractive to my eye 
(photos to follow): one with drops, one with risers. Seeing that I have 
Noodles already, I'll likely just use those initially. I'm generally a drop 
bar guy anyhow. So, my main questions are drivetrain/gearing.

   - Should I keep the rear spacing at 130mm and use a Surly Speed Spacer 
   kit: https://surlybikes.com/parts/spacer_kit
   - Or respace to 120mm (I also have a 120 fixed/free hub I could build 
   up).
   - Suggestions for gearing set ups. I noticed that I can buy 46t and 48t 
   rings for the Campy 135bcd crankset I have. I typically ride bikes with a 
   46/48/49 tooth big ring and don't get out of the big ring in the valley. 
   Chain is somewhere mid-cassette. 
   - What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What would 
   Grant's preferred set up be?
   - What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 
   - Tell me about basket life? I've mostly done rando bag set ups, but 
   maybe one of those Wald racer baskets on this? What do you put in the 
   basket to keep your sh** from falling through the holes? 

So many choices for such a "simple" bike, right?

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

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[RBW] Re: Susie Tire suggestions?

[Paul Richardson]

the first set of tires i'll be trying out on my xl wolbis are the 55cm from 
compass, mounted to cliffhangers.  they'd probably fit fine on several 
other riv models, and aren't fully making use of susie's generous 
clearance, but i've got them already and they're plenty wide compared to 
what i usually ride on my homer.

i'd love to hear from anyone else what you've got planned in the way of 
parts.

can.  not.  wait.  any longer.

paul
takoma park, md.

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[RBW] Re: FS late 70's Nobilette ffh w/ bb (sf bay area only)

[ted]

This frame is gone, picked up today by the first person to express interest.
Thanks to everybody who expressed interest.


On Monday, May 18, 2020 at 12:21:42 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:
>
> I'd like to find a new home for this frame. Its too small for me to ever 
> use again, and its been in the garage for years now. I'm hoping that since 
> Nobilette builds some frames for RBW these days offering it here won't be 
> too far off topic.
>
> What it is:
> This is a Mark Nobilette built frame I bought new in the late 70's. 
> Reynolds 531 tubing of standard for the time diameters (i.e. not "oversize" 
> like most steel frames these days). About 51.5 cm seat tube measured c-t-c. 
> Takes a 27.2 seat post. It takes "normal" reach (from back when, not the 
> current normal that is actually short) side/center pull brakes of the 
> through bolt style. I used both mafac racer and suntour campi copy side 
> pulls on it. I believe it was supposed to be able to accommodate either 27" 
> or 700c wheels. I had 700c tubular wheels on in most of the time I rode it. 
> Long horizontal campi drop outs. It has short fancier lugs, as opposed to 
> the simple long point lugs. The chain stays are on the longer side, and not 
> crimped. The uncrimped stays limit tire clearance but I did fit tubular 
> cyclocross tires (33mm?) on it 20 odd years ago. It also required a long bb 
> for the small ring of a road double crank to clear the stay. There are baze 
> ons for fenders and a rear rack. Downtube decals age gone, most of the N on 
> the seat tube is still there. Paint is rough with badly touched up 
> scratches and primer on the down tube where Tallerico added dt shifter 
> bosses for me in the 90s. If you want pretty get it painted and get some 
> resurecto decals from RBW (if they still have those someplace).
>
> I think this could make an excellent sport touring / rando bike for a 
> shorter individual. Not a race bike but I did race on it back in the early 
> 90s. Should be able to be seen as a "go fast" ride. Probably too flexy for 
> a real touring bike. The frame and I are close to the 580 680 interchange, 
> and I'm willing to drive a ways to deliver. But I'm not willing to ship it. 
> I would like to get this to somebody who will build it up and enjoy it, not 
> somebody looking to flip it to make some money. I don't know what its worth 
> but a glance at 531 frames on clist suggests $80 cash and carry might be a 
> good deal for the buyer.
>
> Any interest?
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 65cm A Homer Hilsen (Waterford) F/F/HS

[scott minor]

Reid,  thanks for the good word.  I’m living on the other side of the pond now 
and getting a custom from a small builder in France who is semi-local.  

John,  I’m not sure of the year but determined that it’s a waterford frame at 
one point, and probably an early-ish one seeing how it has a single top tube, 
not double like the more recent ones from waterford.  There’s some useful sales 
literature on the cyclofiend site and the geometry of this frame matches those 
specs.  My PBH is 95, saddle height is 84cm.  

http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/rr38_pg47lg.jpg


 

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Re: [RBW] Sun Protection in Sunny Climes

[George Schick]

Mas - I'm a bit confusticated about your riding along the "katy trail" with 
"bamboo shading" when it seems like your regular posts indicate that you 
live in Texas.  As far as I know, the Katy Trail runs E-to-W through 
central Missouri.  Please explain.


On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 7:21:18 AM UTC-5, masmojo wrote:
>
> True, we can't control every harmful factor, but I figure it would be 
> silly not to avoid those that I can easily avoid.
> I can avoid absorbing chemicals into my body by simply not buying or 
> wearing sunscreen. I'll probably still use it in certain situations were I 
> know I'm just going to be more or less stationary in the sun in the middle 
> of the day with no shade (outdoor concert for example), but as I've gotten 
> older (even before Covid) I prefer to avoid these types of venues anyway. 
> If I avoid riding middle of the day, or organize my ride in such a way as 
> to maximize the natural  elements along the way that will shade me; trees, 
> buildings, etc. I find I very rarely need sunscreen. Especially since 
> moderate exposure is a healthy source of vitamin D. 
> Humans have been living in the sun for thousands of years (and probably 
> been putting sunscreens on for almost as long) but there are those things 
> that we don't find out were bad for us for years and years until people 
> start dying of cancer or whatever. So I'll continue to use sunscreen 
> sparingly if at all. 
> I know Leah prefers to ride at night anyway; probably partly because of 
> the sun element. I am guessing that maybe she's looking to expand her 11 
> mile loop. Which might entail leaving earlier and therefore being exposed 
> to increased sunlight. 
> When I was riding to work last year, in July thru early September I would 
> stay late at work, another hour or so. At that point I knew that the angle 
> of the sun would start getting low enough in the sky that the bamboo along 
> the West side of the Katy trail or the trees would keep me out of the 
> direct sun and when I was in the sun it would be at my back.
> Basically, a little forethought can be your most effective tool. 

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[RBW] WTB: CroMo Bosco Handlebars

[Tim Tetrault]

Hi Group-

I'm in the Seattle area, but I'd be willing to mail a check and wait for it 
to clear if we were talking about a shipment, but- I am seeking a CroMo 
Bosco bar to purchase. Riv is sold out, currently. 

I'm building up a 55CM MB-1 and I have long legs and a short torso. I will 
likely replace the stem with an original 125mm Ricthey, but the quill 
extension is too short for me to be comfortable on there. 

Let me know if you have one collecting dust,

Tim

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[RBW] Re: FS: 65cm A Homer Hilsen (Waterford) F/F/HS

[John Rinker]

Hey Scott,

Lovely bike. Any idea what year this frame was made? What is your PBH for 
that seat setup? Thanks.

John

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 5:11:13 AM UTC-7, scott minor wrote:
>
> 65cm A Homer Wilson frame / fork / headset for sale.  Rides straight and 
> true, has a few nicks and scratches from riding but presents itself well. 
>  No dings or anything.  I bought this from a trusted list member a while 
> back and have enjoyed it very much.  I'm selling to make way for a custom 
> that will take its place.  I've attached pics showing a couple iterations 
> of how I had it set up.  Frame / fork will be professionally packed by my 
> LBS at no charge to buyer.  $1150 + bikeflights shipping from TN.  Also 
> available for pickup at my LBS.  
>
> Thanks!  -Scott 
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Looking for a zero offset Thomson seatpost

[John G.]

This is all really interesting info. I just recently replaced an old Dura 
Ace seatpost on my Roadeo with a Thomson Masterpiece zero offset seatpost 
that I had laying around. My Berthoud saddle is as far back as it could go. 
The position hasn't bothered me so far, which surprises me a bit. I'm not 
sure what I was expecting, but my Roadeo is a hair small for me, so I guess 
I predicted I would feel cramped. The fact that I've felt fine so far (for 
about 150 miles total) almost has me nervous.

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 3:44:15 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Regarding Steve Hogg's approach:
>
> "Let’s not forget Steve Hogg (IBFI):
>
> https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/
> "
>
> That approach is essentially identical to how I approached bike fitting.  
> I was not a KOPS zealot.  The longer and lower your body would allow you to 
> go, the further back the saddle can go.  Sliding the saddle forward is 
> totally appropriate in balance with a higher-height shorter-reach stem.  
> It's all about the total body position in relationship to the bike.  I 
> really like his illustrations of three riders with identical torso 
> measurements requiring different setups to account for their differences in 
> flexibility.   
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 12:06:29 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>>
>> Appreciate hearing about your experience, Bill. If looking for a cheapo 
>> post for the sake of experimentation there's always Origin8.
>>
>> Probably worth noting that not everyone feels the same about zero setback:
>>
>> http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2011/12/on-seatpost-setback-and-related-matters.html
>>
>> Analog’s stance, which seems to follow prevalent attitudes and perhaps 
>> fuels 0mm stem interest:
>> https://www.analogcycles.com/zero-offset-seatposts-make-zero-sense-mostly/
>>
>> Let’s not forget Steve Hogg (IBFI):
>>
>> https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/
>>
>> There are few hard / fast rules regarding bike fit that I follow. A big 
>> YES on cockpit experimentation to find one's optimal riding position 
>> (ideally established over yrs of micro tuning) on various cycling machines 
>> from different eras and with unique geos. Zero setback works perfectly for 
>> me *on a few of my bikes*. I’m 155-lbs, pbh ~35.5” and 5’11”… so even with 
>> an inline post my weight is distributed quite evenly within my 
>> semi-aero-levered “masters” cockpit. Most of my rides these days are 2.5-4 
>> hours in length w/ average speeds of 18mph.
>>
>> In any case, zero setback in the 27.0 diameter is very difficult to come 
>> by as of late, given global shipping restrictions.
>>
>> Always up for Seattle rides with new friends...
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 10:22:41 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> This is obvious and self-evident to a lot of people, but is 
>>> counter-intuitive to a lot of people: slamming your saddle forward to fix a 
>>> reach problem will often make your problem worse rather than better.  If 
>>> your bars are too far away, and you are 'hunched over' too much, slamming 
>>> your saddle forward also pushes your weight forward, so now you will have a 
>>> lot more weight on your hands, making your hands, elbows, shoulders, neck 
>>> and upper back all worse off.  
>>>
>>> Most road bikes from the 1980s have way too steep seat tubes, and 
>>> require you to slam the seat all the way back, often with an extra laid 
>>> back seatpost, to get your bum back as far back as it ought to be.  When 
>>> that weight distribution is right, you should be able to just lay your 
>>> hands on the handlebars.  If you are bent over too far when your saddle is 
>>> in the right position, then the right way to fix that is to get the bars 
>>> up.  Slamming the saddle forward on a 1980s road bike would destroy my 
>>> shoulders.  It makes my neck tense even thinking about it.  
>>>
>>> It's worth experimenting with a zero-offset seatpost if you don't mind 
>>> the expense of it.  Just know that you may find that you've made things 
>>> worse rather than better.  
>>>
>>> On Monday, May 18, 2020 at 10:45:35 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:

 Anyone have a 27.0 Thomson zero offset seatpost they'd be willing to 
 sell and ship to me in Seattle? Need something for my old Centurion tourer 
 - to bring my aging self just a little closer to the handlebars... ;-/
 thx



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[RBW] Re: Looking for a zero offset Thomson seatpost

[Bill Lindsay]

Regarding Steve Hogg's approach:

"Let’s not forget Steve Hogg (IBFI):
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/
"

That approach is essentially identical to how I approached bike fitting.  I 
was not a KOPS zealot.  The longer and lower your body would allow you to 
go, the further back the saddle can go.  Sliding the saddle forward is 
totally appropriate in balance with a higher-height shorter-reach stem.  
It's all about the total body position in relationship to the bike.  I 
really like his illustrations of three riders with identical torso 
measurements requiring different setups to account for their differences in 
flexibility.   

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 12:06:29 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>
> Appreciate hearing about your experience, Bill. If looking for a cheapo 
> post for the sake of experimentation there's always Origin8.
>
> Probably worth noting that not everyone feels the same about zero setback:
>
> http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2011/12/on-seatpost-setback-and-related-matters.html
>
> Analog’s stance, which seems to follow prevalent attitudes and perhaps 
> fuels 0mm stem interest:
> https://www.analogcycles.com/zero-offset-seatposts-make-zero-sense-mostly/
>
> Let’s not forget Steve Hogg (IBFI):
>
> https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/
>
> There are few hard / fast rules regarding bike fit that I follow. A big 
> YES on cockpit experimentation to find one's optimal riding position 
> (ideally established over yrs of micro tuning) on various cycling machines 
> from different eras and with unique geos. Zero setback works perfectly for 
> me *on a few of my bikes*. I’m 155-lbs, pbh ~35.5” and 5’11”… so even with 
> an inline post my weight is distributed quite evenly within my 
> semi-aero-levered “masters” cockpit. Most of my rides these days are 2.5-4 
> hours in length w/ average speeds of 18mph.
>
> In any case, zero setback in the 27.0 diameter is very difficult to come 
> by as of late, given global shipping restrictions.
>
> Always up for Seattle rides with new friends...
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 10:22:41 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> This is obvious and self-evident to a lot of people, but is 
>> counter-intuitive to a lot of people: slamming your saddle forward to fix a 
>> reach problem will often make your problem worse rather than better.  If 
>> your bars are too far away, and you are 'hunched over' too much, slamming 
>> your saddle forward also pushes your weight forward, so now you will have a 
>> lot more weight on your hands, making your hands, elbows, shoulders, neck 
>> and upper back all worse off.  
>>
>> Most road bikes from the 1980s have way too steep seat tubes, and require 
>> you to slam the seat all the way back, often with an extra laid back 
>> seatpost, to get your bum back as far back as it ought to be.  When that 
>> weight distribution is right, you should be able to just lay your hands on 
>> the handlebars.  If you are bent over too far when your saddle is in the 
>> right position, then the right way to fix that is to get the bars up.  
>> Slamming the saddle forward on a 1980s road bike would destroy my 
>> shoulders.  It makes my neck tense even thinking about it.  
>>
>> It's worth experimenting with a zero-offset seatpost if you don't mind 
>> the expense of it.  Just know that you may find that you've made things 
>> worse rather than better.  
>>
>> On Monday, May 18, 2020 at 10:45:35 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>>>
>>> Anyone have a 27.0 Thomson zero offset seatpost they'd be willing to 
>>> sell and ship to me in Seattle? Need something for my old Centurion tourer 
>>> - to bring my aging self just a little closer to the handlebars... ;-/
>>> thx
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Looking for a zero offset Thomson seatpost

[Bill Lindsay]

Fryfam pointed out:

"Probably worth noting that not everyone feels the same about zero setback:
http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2011/12/on-seatpost-setback-and-related-matters.html
"

There are several major qualifiers there, and the linked article discusses 
it appropriately and in context.  That linked article is about moving the 
saddle forward on a frame with a very very slack seat tube angle and an 
unusually long top tube.  That first generation 52cm Sam Hillborne has a 
71.5 degree seat tube angle and a 57.5cm top tube on a "small".  The author 
has already put a short stem on to partially correct the reach.  A typical 
1980s road bike like a Centurion may have a 73 or maybe even a 74 degree 
seat tube angle.  That means that the saddle setback on a Hillborne would 
start out more than an inch further back.  A zero-offset seatpost on a 
Hillborne and a mega laid back seatpost on a Centurion would likely achieve 
a similar amount of saddle setback.  On my own Sam Hillborne, with a small 
setback post (Nitto 65), my saddle is near mid-rail, biased maybe a couple 
mm forward.  On my vintage 1980s bikes, I slam the saddle back as far back 
as it will go.  Many of us oldtimers remember the standard saddle setup of 
hammering one's saddle back with a rubber mallet.  

If your Centurion has a 71.5 degree seat tube angle, and you've already 
shortened the stem as much as is appropriate, adding a zero offset seatpost 
is a worthwhile next step, just like the article.  A zero-offset seatpost 
on a typical 1980s road bike would result in more of a triathlon/time 
trial/aero bars kind of fit, which may be OK.  

For context, my experience has been as a 'decent' bike fitter in 15 years 
of working at bike shops in my youth.  Maybe 1000 customers asked me over 
the years to slide their saddle forward because they were too leaned over.  
Maybe 800 of those 1000 agreed to try sliding it back instead.  Maybe 500 
of those 800 were surprised to see that it helped a lot.   

I hope it all works out for you and you get the fit you are after.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 12:06:29 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>
> Appreciate hearing about your experience, Bill. If looking for a cheapo 
> post for the sake of experimentation there's always Origin8.
>
> Probably worth noting that not everyone feels the same about zero setback:
>
> http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2011/12/on-seatpost-setback-and-related-matters.html
>
> Analog’s stance, which seems to follow prevalent attitudes and perhaps 
> fuels 0mm stem interest:
> https://www.analogcycles.com/zero-offset-seatposts-make-zero-sense-mostly/
>
> Let’s not forget Steve Hogg (IBFI):
>
> https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/
>
> There are few hard / fast rules regarding bike fit that I follow. A big 
> YES on cockpit experimentation to find one's optimal riding position 
> (ideally established over yrs of micro tuning) on various cycling machines 
> from different eras and with unique geos. Zero setback works perfectly for 
> me *on a few of my bikes*. I’m 155-lbs, pbh ~35.5” and 5’11”… so even with 
> an inline post my weight is distributed quite evenly within my 
> semi-aero-levered “masters” cockpit. Most of my rides these days are 2.5-4 
> hours in length w/ average speeds of 18mph.
>
> In any case, zero setback in the 27.0 diameter is very difficult to come 
> by as of late, given global shipping restrictions.
>
> Always up for Seattle rides with new friends...
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 10:22:41 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> This is obvious and self-evident to a lot of people, but is 
>> counter-intuitive to a lot of people: slamming your saddle forward to fix a 
>> reach problem will often make your problem worse rather than better.  If 
>> your bars are too far away, and you are 'hunched over' too much, slamming 
>> your saddle forward also pushes your weight forward, so now you will have a 
>> lot more weight on your hands, making your hands, elbows, shoulders, neck 
>> and upper back all worse off.  
>>
>> Most road bikes from the 1980s have way too steep seat tubes, and require 
>> you to slam the seat all the way back, often with an extra laid back 
>> seatpost, to get your bum back as far back as it ought to be.  When that 
>> weight distribution is right, you should be able to just lay your hands on 
>> the handlebars.  If you are bent over too far when your saddle is in the 
>> right position, then the right way to fix that is to get the bars up.  
>> Slamming the saddle forward on a 1980s road bike would destroy my 
>> shoulders.  It makes my neck tense even thinking about it.  
>>
>> It's worth experimenting with a zero-offset seatpost if you don't mind 
>> the expense of it.  Just know that you may find that you've made things 
>> worse rather than better.  
>>
>> On Monday, May 18, 2020 at 10:45:35 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>>>
>>> Anyone have a 27.0 Thomson zero offset 

[RBW] Re: Looking for a zero offset Thomson seatpost

[Fryfam]

Appreciate hearing about your experience, Bill. If looking for a cheapo 
post for the sake of experimentation there's always Origin8.

Probably worth noting that not everyone feels the same about zero setback:
http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2011/12/on-seatpost-setback-and-related-matters.html

Analog’s stance, which seems to follow prevalent attitudes and perhaps 
fuels 0mm stem interest:
https://www.analogcycles.com/zero-offset-seatposts-make-zero-sense-mostly/

Let’s not forget Steve Hogg (IBFI):
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/

There are few hard / fast rules regarding bike fit that I follow. A big YES 
on cockpit experimentation to find one's optimal riding position (ideally 
established over yrs of micro tuning) on various cycling machines from 
different eras and with unique geos. Zero setback works perfectly for me 
*on a few of my bikes*. I’m 155-lbs, pbh ~35.5” and 5’11”… so even with an 
inline post my weight is distributed quite evenly within my 
semi-aero-levered “masters” cockpit. Most of my rides these days are 2.5-4 
hours in length w/ average speeds of 18mph.

In any case, zero setback in the 27.0 diameter is very difficult to come by 
as of late, given global shipping restrictions.

Always up for Seattle rides with new friends...



On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 10:22:41 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> This is obvious and self-evident to a lot of people, but is 
> counter-intuitive to a lot of people: slamming your saddle forward to fix a 
> reach problem will often make your problem worse rather than better.  If 
> your bars are too far away, and you are 'hunched over' too much, slamming 
> your saddle forward also pushes your weight forward, so now you will have a 
> lot more weight on your hands, making your hands, elbows, shoulders, neck 
> and upper back all worse off.  
>
> Most road bikes from the 1980s have way too steep seat tubes, and require 
> you to slam the seat all the way back, often with an extra laid back 
> seatpost, to get your bum back as far back as it ought to be.  When that 
> weight distribution is right, you should be able to just lay your hands on 
> the handlebars.  If you are bent over too far when your saddle is in the 
> right position, then the right way to fix that is to get the bars up.  
> Slamming the saddle forward on a 1980s road bike would destroy my 
> shoulders.  It makes my neck tense even thinking about it.  
>
> It's worth experimenting with a zero-offset seatpost if you don't mind the 
> expense of it.  Just know that you may find that you've made things worse 
> rather than better.  
>
> On Monday, May 18, 2020 at 10:45:35 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>>
>> Anyone have a 27.0 Thomson zero offset seatpost they'd be willing to sell 
>> and ship to me in Seattle? Need something for my old Centurion tourer - to 
>> bring my aging self just a little closer to the handlebars... ;-/
>> thx
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Kurt Manley]

Sorry if this was already discussed but what is the purpose of that 
cassette? 

On Tuesday, May 19, 2020 at 3:10:54 PM UTC-7, J Imler wrote:
>
> On Tuesday, May 19, 2020 at 3:08:30 PM UTC-7, J Imler wrote: 
> > eJoe now fully functional. Smart Sam’s feel great. Gearing mod alllows 
> for more steep climbs. My utility biking range has increased along with 
> ignoring wind/rain as an excuse. 
>
> Attached is the cassette hack.

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[RBW] Re: Looking for a zero offset Thomson seatpost

[Bill Lindsay]

This is obvious and self-evident to a lot of people, but is 
counter-intuitive to a lot of people: slamming your saddle forward to fix a 
reach problem will often make your problem worse rather than better.  If 
your bars are too far away, and you are 'hunched over' too much, slamming 
your saddle forward also pushes your weight forward, so now you will have a 
lot more weight on your hands, making your hands, elbows, shoulders, neck 
and upper back all worse off.  

Most road bikes from the 1980s have way too steep seat tubes, and require 
you to slam the seat all the way back, often with an extra laid back 
seatpost, to get your bum back as far back as it ought to be.  When that 
weight distribution is right, you should be able to just lay your hands on 
the handlebars.  If you are bent over too far when your saddle is in the 
right position, then the right way to fix that is to get the bars up.  
Slamming the saddle forward on a 1980s road bike would destroy my 
shoulders.  It makes my neck tense even thinking about it.  

It's worth experimenting with a zero-offset seatpost if you don't mind the 
expense of it.  Just know that you may find that you've made things worse 
rather than better.  

On Monday, May 18, 2020 at 10:45:35 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>
> Anyone have a 27.0 Thomson zero offset seatpost they'd be willing to sell 
> and ship to me in Seattle? Need something for my old Centurion tourer - to 
> bring my aging self just a little closer to the handlebars... ;-/
> thx
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Clem L as an ebike frame?

[Dave Redmon]

Chris, did you strap your downtube battery to your rear rack using its
downtube radle to secure it? Any special technique?

Dave

On Wed, May 20, 2020, 8:34 AM Chris  wrote:

> Get a rear rack and mount the battery there. I have a large downtube
> battery mounted on a Riv similarly and it works great. I have ridden bikes
> with downrube batteries mounted to the frame and the weight distribution
> when mounted to a rear rack isn't very different, especially on my Atlantis.
>
>
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> .
>

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[RBW] FS: 65cm A Homer Hilsen (Waterford) F/F/HS

[Reid Echols]

Great bike at a great price! Love the builds Scott. 

Not to hijack the thread, but what’s the custom going to be?

Reid in Austin (who once owned this Homer, sold it, and has since bought 
another 65 Homer after seeing the error of his ways)

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Re: [RBW] Clem L as an ebike frame?

[Chris]

Get a rear rack and mount the battery there. I have a large downtube battery 
mounted on a Riv similarly and it works great. I have ridden bikes with 
downrube batteries mounted to the frame and the weight distribution when 
mounted to a rear rack isn't very different, especially on my Atlantis.
 

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[RBW] Re: Brake lever preference with Nitto Noodles

[Wally Estrella]

Another vote for TRP RRLs.  I have them on my Quickbeam with Nitto Dirt 
Drops and on my bikepacker w Klampers.  


On Saturday, May 16, 2020 at 10:45:55 AM UTC-4, Erik Wright wrote:
>
> Howdy,
>
> I have a Roadini set up with 46cm Noodles. I'm using 9spd 105 brifters 
> that I took off my old road bike, and I'm struggling to dial in the feel of 
> the hoods. This is partially due to the lever / hood design (pretty boxy 
> and bulky, don't like it that much), but I also can't work out the bar to 
> hood transition, if that makes sense. I'd like a smooth transition from the 
> top of the bar into the hood position of the lever, in effect creating a 
> feel of the bullhorn handlebar. After many micro adjustments, I just can't 
> get that with this lever/bar combo. Either the levers feel too close and 
> create a harsh/abrupt transition to the hoods, or they're too far below the 
> bend for my liking.
>
> I figured I'd switch to downtube shifters and go with the Tiagra BL-R400 that 
> Riv sells 
> 
>  
> and uses on most of their bikes, but wanted to check in and see if anyone 
> here has a different lever that they *love* with Noodles. Brakes are Paul 
> Racers, if that's a factor.
>
> Let's hear 'em!
>
> Erik, Philly
>
> p.s. Riv's out of stock with those Tiagra levers so if you have some in 
> your bin that you'd like to get rid of, consider this a low key WTB post.
>

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Re: [RBW] Sun Protection in Sunny Climes

[masmojo]

True, we can't control every harmful factor, but I figure it would be silly not 
to avoid those that I can easily avoid.
I can avoid absorbing chemicals into my body by simply not buying or wearing 
sunscreen. I'll probably still use it in certain situations were I know I'm 
just going to be more or less stationary in the sun in the middle of the day 
with no shade (outdoor concert for example), but as I've gotten older (even 
before Covid) I prefer to avoid these types of venues anyway. 
If I avoid riding middle of the day, or organize my ride in such a way as to 
maximize the natural  elements along the way that will shade me; trees, 
buildings, etc. I find I very rarely need sunscreen. Especially since moderate 
exposure is a healthy source of vitamin D. 
Humans have been living in the sun for thousands of years (and probably been 
putting sunscreens on for almost as long) but there are those things that we 
don't find out were bad for us for years and years until people start dying of 
cancer or whatever. So I'll continue to use sunscreen sparingly if at all. 
I know Leah prefers to ride at night anyway; probably partly because of the sun 
element. I am guessing that maybe she's looking to expand her 11 mile loop. 
Which might entail leaving earlier and therefore being exposed to increased 
sunlight. 
When I was riding to work last year, in July thru early September I would stay 
late at work, another hour or so. At that point I knew that the angle of the 
sun would start getting low enough in the sky that the bamboo along the West 
side of the Katy trail or the trees would keep me out of the direct sun and 
when I was in the sun it would be at my back.
Basically, a little forethought can be your most effective tool. 

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[RBW] WTB/ISO Nitto 26.8 300mm S83, possibly S65

[Garth]

Anyone have a  Nitto 26.8mm, 300mm length,  S83 Seatpost for sale ?  I'd 
possibly consider a S65 also. I'm only interest in ones that are in VG 
condition not only in appearance but the bolts also, meaning a hex wrench 
fits in snug. Contact off list . 


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