[RBW] Re: A Hydraulic Disc Brake Rivendell...

[tuolumne bikes]

I switched mine so the (cable) disc is the main brake. If 650B rim brake 
rims are going to go extinct, I don't see any point in wearing one out, and 
the back of a tandem takes a lot of the braking load. I think you could 
replace lots of discs and pads for the price of rebuilding the wheel. The 
stoker has an XC thumbshifter controlling the v-brake which works better 
than you might think for a drag brake and works great as a parking brake. 
She almost never uses the drag brake. We haven't had problems with 
overheating the disc brake even with touring loads.

I'm not big on disc brakes since rim brakes are so simple and meet my 
needs. But I won't be building wheels for loaded tandem touring myself so 
the replacement cost for wearing out the rim is significant.

Carl

On Wednesday, December 9, 2020 at 7:55:11 AM UTC-8 Patrick Cronin wrote:

> Bill,
>
> I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on how that hydraulic lever/caliper 
> works as a tandem brake compared to a drag brake set up. My HHH has a Paul 
> Klamper linked to a DuraAce bar-end shifter on the stoker's bosco end. The 
> captain's controls are XTR V-brakes like yours. My stokers are used to 
> actuating an Arai drum brake with a friction shifter, so my thinking was 
> that setting up the HHH with a drag function, rather than with a 
> traditional lever, would be most similar. In practice, that has held only 
> somewhat true because the efficiency of the Klamper is exponentially 
> greater than a drum; my 4-year old delights in testing the friction 
> threshold of the rear tire using the Klamper, a feat the Arai drum brake 
> could never accomplish even with herculean effort. The Klamper/bar-end 
> set-up works like a dream on long descents because it can be set and stay 
> on for minutes, if necessary, just like the old Arai drum.
>
> Do you prefer to have the stoker feather the rear disc brake rather than 
> have the Captain feather using the V-brakes? How do you handle this with 
> communication/commands? Generally, I go with, "brake on", "more", "good", 
> and "brake off". The stoker brake then is only used for drag applications, 
> never feathered or for short bursts. Thus, I have no experience Captaining 
> with a Stoker who has a traditional brake lever.
>
> Cheers,
> Patrick
>
> On Tuesday, December 8, 2020 at 9:49:57 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Tonight I finally got around to an upgrade that I'd been planning for a 
>> long long time.  I installed a hydraulic disc brake on the back of my 
>> Rivendell HubbuHubbuH tandem.  I'd been making do with XTR V-brakes, but 
>> have had a few situations where I definitely wanted a bit more.  Now I have 
>> a reliable no-nonsense Shimano M447 hydro disc for the stoker to actuate.  
>> Shimano hydro discs work absurdly well, are dead simple to work on, cost 
>> practically nothing.  It's a win win win.  I also installed a stoker bell.  
>>
>> One of my favorite stokers is coming back from college for the holidays, 
>> so the upgrades serve as a welcome back.  
>>
>> Pics prove even big bikes can enjoy their time in the stand:
>>
>> Hydro brake lever | Flickr 
>>  
>> Cheap Shimano Hydro Drag | A Shimano M447 hydro caliper give… | Flickr 
>>  
>> Stoker Bell | This mini Crane gives the stoker a friendly wa… | Flickr 
>> 
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ideas needed for offseting front rack from exposed cable

[tuolumne bikes]

I may be more likely than most group members to use cheap and inelegant 
solutions. I would look for a reflector bracket that goes on the fork under 
the headset nut. They used to be used to take the place of the headset 
washer and often served as an unsuitably flexy cable housing stop. If a big 
reflector isn't low enough to keep the bag off the cable, an aluminum tube, 
plate, or similar could be mounted on the bracket. Mount it above the cable 
stop and drill a hole in the bracket for the cable housing to pass through.

Carl

On Wednesday, November 18, 2020 at 12:44:24 PM UTC-8 Roberta wrote:

> Does anyone have  suggestions for something to "offset" a front handlebar 
> bag from rubbing on the front exposed cable?  
>
> With John H's help, we found this 
> https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-f16-front-handlebar-hook-bag-supporter-bag-part-nitto--870-288-10/p
>  
> , but it's a bit pricey.  The support "shelf" is nice but not required.
>
> I'm not interested in a permanently fixed item. as I'd move it from Riv to 
> Riv.  Other than the price, I like this item.
>
> Thanks,
> Roberta
>

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[RBW] Re: Talk Me Out of Building My Own Wheels

[tuolumne bikes]

Steven, the list members seem to have a hard time following instructions. 
Don't build your own wheels.

I have built two sets of wheels using the bikes as truing stands with blue 
masking tape across the seat stays/fork as a guide. Make sharpie marks on 
the tape as needed, and flip the wheels. I also used YouTube, an online 
spoke length calculator, a Phillips bit with one set of the fins ground 
off, a cordless drill, and a spoke wrench. Any competent professional could 
tell you my wheels suck, and building would certainly go faster with better 
tools and training. I've used them for five years without problems beyond 
the occasional truing that all wheels need. If you're planning on extended 
touring, have more money than time and aptitude, or are a bike abuser have 
a pro make some bombproof wheels.

Carl

 
On Tuesday, October 20, 2020 at 6:18:56 AM UTC-7 Paul in Dallas wrote:

> Garth, did you mean Jim Langley for the YouTube wheel building video and 
> perhaps auto correct screwed ut up?
>
> I could not find a Jim Land wheel building video but found this Jim 
> Langley one.
>
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XUqul03hbZ8
>
>
> ...
> Garth wrote,
> " Jim Land on youtube has the best video of building/truing wheels I've 
> seen, his way is presentation is very easy going and more intuitive than 
> all the books that I once read, and hated."
> ..
>
> Thanks for this thread and all who contributed. 
> I'm another who has been on the fence about giving it a try. Perhaps this 
> will get me motivated as well.
>
> Paul in Dallas 
>

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[RBW] Re: Shifting Theory with a Wide/Low Double

[tuolumne bikes]

Ben, there are lots of different points of view about riding. Nobody's 
right or wrong. I would only worry about cross chaining if it was noisy and 
bothering me. I would cruise up hills that are unlikely to need the small 
ring by just shifting the back. If I thought I would need the small ring, I 
would think about whether I should shift that big gap on the front sooner 
than later so I'm not stuck with the big shift when the going is harder. 
Doubly so on dirt.

In general, cutting switchbacks undermines trails that people work hard to 
maintain. It's not a good look. Clearly I don't know the specifics of your 
trail, so I don't want to be too judgemental.

Carl
On Sunday, October 11, 2020 at 5:08:37 PM UTC-7 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello!
> I did try a few searches for some discussion or an answer to this question 
> and came up empty...but I'm sure someone will provide a link with 
> everything I'm looking for!
>
> But here's my question...if I have the Clipper wide/low double (42/26) 
> with a 9 speed cassette, am I "cross-chaining" and putting premature stress 
> on my chain by staying on the 42t at all times unless climbing? The way I 
> understand it, in a double crankset with a guard, the big ring is where the 
> middle ring would be in a triple and can use all the rear cogs. Am I wrong?
>
> If I'm out riding for fun, I'm usually on the big ring and the smaller 
> half of the cassette and I'll shift the FD to the small ring if I have a 
> climb (there's a really fun short cut through one end of a switchback that 
> I like dropping down and climbing). On my work commute, I'm riding uphill 
> for about a mile before things level off, then theres a series of descents 
> and climbs that keep the ride interesting. But that first mile is boring 
> and I stick with the big ring in the first three cogs most of the time. 
> Would it be easier on my chain to use the 26t ring with the middle of the 
> cassette for that section instead?
>
> Thanks for your thoughts!
> -Ben
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Good wishes for those on list affected by CA wildfires

[tuolumne bikes]

The Bear Fire is to the north and the Creek Fire is to the south. Neither 
is close enough to be a concern for our safety. They shut off our power 
around midnight on Monday. We have a generator so we can keep the well 
going and power most of the house, but it can't run the AC. The smoke is 
smelly with gray haze visible over the RV Park next door. Last night we had 
to decide between cooler air and cleaner air, and we opened the windows. 
The smoke usually gets worse overnight as the cool air settles, and we had 
a nasty night and morning. Power just came back on at 3:00 and AC is 
running with a new filter. Lungs feel exactly like LA smog from the 70s. I 
rode a dozen or so figure eights in the driveway just because I could. 

USFS has deemed that outdoors is closed. Ask me how I feel after another 
week.

Carl

On Wednesday, September 9, 2020 at 3:19:17 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> ...and it looks like 8:00 at night out there. 
>
> On Wednesday, September 9, 2020 at 3:16:32 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> 66° in Marin, I can't really feel the smoke in my throat but the smell is 
>> strong and I sound raspy. The last part I didn't realize 'til I sent a 
>> couple voice texts yesterday and discovered I sound like Burgess Meredith 
>> in Rocky!
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 9, 2020 at 3:04:25 PM UTC-7 ted wrote:
>>
>>> "Can you feel the heat from the fires? "
>>>
>>> Actually its relatively cool today, I think because the smoke is 
>>> reflecting the sun thereby neutralizing that big radiant heat lamp in the 
>>> sky.
>>> If you are close enough to feel the heat you should have already left.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 9, 2020 at 2:41:19 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding 
>>> Ding! wrote:
>>>
 Kim, the firefighters - yes, I can’t even imagine. My brother was a 
 Hotshot and you’d never believe the stories he has to tell. The working 
 conditions are just unreal. God be with them.

 Joe - Vegas is harsh but not so many natural disasters here. And 
 really, most of the year the weather is lovely for riding, though the 
 terrain is tough. If you want to give up the Golden State and come to the 
 Silver State I’ll tell you where all my top secret trails are. I got 
 spoiled when I (briefly) lived in California -  it’s hard to forego 
 California’s finery... I have a feeling you’ll weather these fires and 
 stay 
 put.

 Those photos of Berkeley don’t even look real. 

 What is it like to go outside? Can you feel the heat from the fires? Is 
 it hard to breathe or can’t you discern a difference?

 Leah

  

 Sent from my iPad

 On Sep 9, 2020, at 1:43 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

 "And it’s not just CA on fire, but now several states in the West. 
 It’s all a lot to take. How is everyone? Are you guys all safe out there? 
 How’s your breathing? What about your homes?

 Gosh, I’m just so sorry. Let us know how you’re doing.
 Leah"

 A year ago I marveled at the crazy climate Leah lives and rides in near 
 Vegas. Two days ago it was 113° in lovely Marin County, CA. Today at 
 1:30pm 
 the sky is dark and I have the lights on in my apartment. Vegas is looking 
 pretty good right now...

 Joe Bernard 
 On Wednesday, September 9, 2020 at 12:04:23 PM UTC-7 Flowerfang wrote:

> I feel that Leah. 
> It’s been heartbreaking.
> I hope this cooler weather will help-  those dear firefighters must be 
> so exhausted. 
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 11:34 AM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello All, I’ve been seeing the photos that Rivendell has been 
>> posting of the land during the fires and the best word to describe it 
>> was 
>> Will’s...which was “hellscape.” 
>>
>>
>>
>> And it’s not just CA on fire, but now several states in the West. 
>> It’s all a lot to take. How is everyone? Are you guys all safe out 
>> there? 
>> How’s your breathing? What about your homes? 
>>
>>
>>
>> Gosh, I’m just so sorry. Let us know how you’re doing.
>>
>> Leah
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
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[RBW] Re: friction mode on silver shifters and shimano down tube dura ace shifters slip!

[tuolumne bikes]

Are you absolutely sure the cable is slipping? Does it always move in the 
same direction? (Gets harder to pedal for traditional rear derailleur.) 
Never happens in index mode? Skipping on worn cogs with a newer chain can 
seem like a shifting problem especially if it's on the larger cogs and 
you're pedaling hard uphill. If the cassette is oldish, replacing it can 
narrow down the possibilities.

Carl
On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 7:14:40 AM UTC-7 Sam Perez wrote:

> does any one know how to trouble shoot friction shifters that wont hold 
> gears under hard effort, i have riv silver shifters and 9speed dura ace 
> down tube shifters that slip on friction mode.
>
> I have done the following only to have the lever loose grip after a few 
> shifts. (lots of hills)
> -tightened the bolt (done) 
> -tightened the D ring (done)
> -adjusted the rear  deralure (done) 
>
> any thoughts?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clems, racks and P-clamps

[tuolumne bikes]

P-clamps are fine for loads that push/pull along the wide dimension of the 
clamp--usually up/down and front/back. They will eventually fail under 
loads that flex the clamps in the skinny dimension--usually side to side, 
vibration, and heavy loads. They should be fine for a long time with pizza 
and laundry, and if they fail on the way to the laundromat, you probably 
won't be in the desert where nobody speaks your language.

Carl

On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 7:14:14 AM UTC-7 ack...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey all.  Trying to find the perfect setup for my Clem L.  I have a Nitto 
> Campee 34F and a Wald 157 basket currently mounted to my new Clementine.  I 
> love it all, but have been alerted that perhaps the p-clamps aren’t best 
> suited for long-term use.  Thoughts?  Advicc? Alternatives?  I really love 
> the 157 for laundry and pizza deliveries.  But I’m open to trying a 
> different rack or mounting setup...
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Thoughts on albastach bars

[tuolumne bikes]

I put them on my road bike after rejecting drops one last time. I very 
rarely ride the hoods, occasionally use the swept position to relax, mostly 
vary position along the hooks to change the angle of my wrists. I don't use 
bar ends. See https://www.instagram.com/p/CBO2uXtsqt9/

I very much agree with Patrick. They are comfortable but not so good for 
any kind of technical descent where you need your weight back but the 
levers are way out front. I don't think they look any better or worse than 
drops, just different.

I agree with Bill that you wouldn't necessarily use the same stem as drops. 
If you're already set up with drops, lay the Albastache on top of the drops 
with the front of the hooks lined up with the comfortable grip spot on the 
hoods (plus or minus). Then measure the difference in extension you'll need 
for the stem.

Carl

On Saturday, August 15, 2020 at 1:11:05 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Another note I'll add because I was being nice in my first one and just 
> answered the question without an opinion: Me no likey! Moustache and 
> Albastache looked great but gave me all the agonies, even before my basal 
> thumb arthritis made the situation even worse. If you like 'em well God 
> bless ya, kids. I'm not that guy! ✋

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Re: [RBW] Re: Weird handlebar idea

[tuolumne bikes]

You can't do this (attached) with Crazy Bars unless you have hinged brake 
levers. The relaxed hand position is palms at about 45 degrees with thumbs 
around the bar ends and heel of the hand on the handle bar. On sketchy 
descents you have a standard straight bar with two finger braking. Shifting 
and braking are accessible in either position. I'm not currently using 
this, but it worked for several years. Using Northroad variations now since 
my wrists like the 45 degree angle.

I realize this photo may disturb some folks, but the thread is called weird 
handlebar idea.

Carl

On Saturday, August 8, 2020 at 1:44:17 PM UTC-7 Jim M. wrote:

> On Saturday, August 8, 2020 at 8:53:11 AM UTC-7, Zack Medow wrote:
>>
>> So I maybe didn't describe this well enough. Just imagine a mustache bar 
>> but with the brake hoods in the standard position for a drop bar. So it's 
>> like a normal dop bar, but all parts of the bar are on the same plane. The 
>> idea is to have a normal hoods position, plus a swoop back part of the bar 
>> that's on the same level with the drops. 
>>
>>>
>>> I've been intrigued by Velo Orange's Crazy Bar, though I don't know if 
> you can put drop levers on those horns: 
> https://velo-orange.com/collections/handlebars/products/crazy-bars-1 
>
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Earl Craig's Atlantis on the Blug

[tuolumne bikes]

Patrick has set (ok tied) a new record for drifting off topic--original post!

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[RBW] Path Less Pedaled will review a Riv!

[tuolumne bikes]

Agree on the s-word. I try be flexible on these things though. When the day 
comes that someone starts marketing brake pads as supple, I may be headed for 
hermit land.

Carl

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[RBW] Re: Paul Netro-Retro Cantilevers & Straddle Cable Height: where is your happy place?

[tuolumne bikes]

I'm seeing a lot of mathematicians talking without any math. :-) So far, Paul's 
comments square with my understanding and experience. 

Excepting some of the dumbed down, no choices, 90s low profile Shimanos, I've 
generally don't find cantis to lack stopping power, and even the worst are fine 
for the rear where low profile is needed. If the pads are aligned sensibly, the 
straddle cable makes a roughly 90 deg bend over the saddle, and the straddle 
cable pulls at right angles to the line through the pivot and straddle 
attachment point on the arms, they all seem to work. It seems like some of the 
very long armed low profile brakes are intended to be set up not optimized as I 
just described to reduce the effective lever arm. In essence part of the cable 
tension pulls the arms up rather than together which reduces power and 
increases a sense of modulation.

If braking is poor and the cable/arm geometry is sensible, check the rims and 
pads. Squealing is the main issue with cantis for me.

Carl

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[RBW] Re: Shoe recommendations for wet fall

[tuolumne bikes]

Check out Crocs Swiftwater Mesh. I have  previous version without drainage 
holes. They are a tighter fit than most Crocs, but still very light and grippy. 
Seem to be on sale everywhere.

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[RBW] Fire Season Smoke Ridin' Tips

[tuolumne bikes]

We encounter two common scenarios in the Sierra foothills. 

1. Fires dispersed across CA and generally bad air quality. When this happens 
the air doesn't usually smell like smoke, but it looks bad. I have to decide 
whether to ride based on AQ data--unhealthful for... When I was a teen in LA 
this was routine without fires.

2. Fire nearby in the Sierra. Smells like smoke and AQ data is not really 
applicable. The smoke sinks overnight and shifts to rise as the day heats up. 
Often some minimal riding can be done by paying attention to winds and time of 
day.

As seasons go fire season smoke is more limiting than the summer heat.

Carl

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[RBW] Re: Problems with Nitto stems and bars?

[tuolumne bikes]

Regarding the nut, hex or otherwise. I've never needed to put a wrench on 
it, but if it were spinning, I would. If you can get the bolt tight, it 
works fine regardless of how the nut was restrained while tightening it. If 
I worked in a bike shop, I'd hold the nut with a wrench to avoid putting a 
nick in the bottom of someone else's stem.

Regarding the creaks. Quill to steel steerer tube has always been greased 
because steel rusts. Using a super long quill with minimal insertion might 
be cause for creaking there, since the lever arm from the top of the stem 
about the top of the quill/steerer interface is so long. Nitto would get 
the blame since they make the long quill stems, but it's not really an 
indicator that the stem is faulty.

There are two (significant) ways the bars exert force on the bar/stem 
interface. The center of the bars can deform slightly due to 
up/down/forward/rearward forces on the bars, and the bars can rotate in the 
clamp. Back in the day road bars were 40-42 cm wide plus or minus. Many 
bars are much wider now, so the lever arm for up/down/forward/rearward is 
longer. Similarly for bars with long backsweep, especially Boscos, the 
lever arm for rotation of the bars in the clamp is much longer. The 
stresses of "big bars" are larger at the clamp.

I've never lubed the bar to stem interface in forty years and creaking 
hasn't been an issue until using wide Albastache bars. They creak if I pull 
hard on them, I ignore so far. Seems like the sleeve/bar interface would be 
the more likely culprit, so maybe I'll try some chain lube there.

As an experiment, you could try riding your creaky bars hard and bumpy in 
the narrower/more forward position to see if you can get a creak. That 
won't solve the creaking problem, but would prove the point about the lever 
arm. 

Carl

>

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[RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[tuolumne bikes]

Maybe another way to say it: this is a modern Rivendell redesign of the 
All-Rounder with long stays and swoop tube.

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[RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[tuolumne bikes]

Maybe I'm more sensitive to this than most due to my short torso, but this 
looks like a new bike designed for widish tires and drops. Isn't that cause for 
celebrating? Rivendell has plenty of long top tube bikes. I would probably 
still wind up with Northroads or Albastache on this because I'm a freak, but 
this geometry looks to add some diversity to the lineup for folks that don't 
want Boscos on everything.

Carl

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[RBW] Re: Hot Waxing Chains

[tuolumne bikes]

For cleaning, I mostly hose off the drivetrain after a dusty ride, bounce the 
bike a few times and dry in the sun, and then wipe down the chain. Sometimes I 
over lube and wipe. 

When it's time to do a rare major cleaning, the chain goes in an old wide mouth 
nalgene with Dawn dish soap and boiling water. I wrap an old bath towel around 
it and shake the hell out of it. The towel is absolutely mandatory for opening 
the nalgene since it usually spurts like a hot radiator. It takes a couple wash 
and rinse cycles. Hang to dry before installing and lubing. Nalgene was (and 
still is) a lab equipment company before it became an outdoor brand; their hard 
bottles handle boiling water without issues.

There's a theory that this kind of cleaning removes lube from deep inside the 
chain and that relubing the chain can't penetrate to replace it. I figure if 
hot water and detergent got in there, then super slippery chain lube probably 
can too. I over lube and wipe.

The notion that chains need to be really really clean is silly to me given how 
much work that would take. I run 3 x 6/7/8 speeds, so chains are cheap, and 
steel is recyclable. I also really like steel chainrings. Old Sugino VP cranks 
from MTBeaters often have great steel 110/74 BCD rings. What a sensible place 
to add weight to your bike.

Carl

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[RBW] Re: Sun Protection in Sunny Climes

[tuolumne bikes]

Agreed on the long sleeve Merino base layers. I prefer the long sleeves to 
wearing more sunscreen, and prefer them on the slightly loose side. Wool won't 
stink, but it can build up a noticeable white salt layer on extended rides in 
extreme heat--evidence that the wicking works. Lightweight Merino tops do start 
to get faded/thread bare on the shoulders/back after about three years at which 
point I don't think they have much sun screening effect.

I have taken to wearing REI Savanna pants on the bike. They are remarkably 
light and tough, and they have bungee drawstrings sewn into the cuffs. I hike 
them up over my calves when riding and slip them down if I need to look like 
less of a goofball. Best of all, they're sized by waist/length, so I can get 
them to fit my ridiculously long legs. Buy a size up in waist if you have bike 
rider thighs.

Around here (CA Sierra) summer rides either start early or are in the high 
country.

Carl

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[RBW] Re: Fancy Cheviot!

[tuolumne bikes]

I enjoy the ambiguity of "...I've always felt a little bit closer to them, a 
little fonder of them and interested in them, than my friends." 

But will a platypus come to your funeral? 

Carl

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Re: [RBW] Apaloosa front derailleur clearance problem

[tuolumne bikes]

You're welcome. Some of the older Sugino MTB triple cranks I still use have the 
same issue. There's not a lot of extra space between the big ring and the crank 
arm.

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[RBW] Apaloosa front derailleur clearance problem

[tuolumne bikes]

If you're using friction,  an older (mid to late 80s) fd may be the solution. 
Before front indexing, the outer fd plates were pretty flat. eBay time...

Carl

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[RBW] bike recs for my son

[tuolumne bikes]

Seems like a 5' 8" sixth grader would be spending about two years on his next 
bike. Looking for a particular bike is a pretty likely way to overpay or make 
yourself miserable.

I'd be looking for off-premium sport touring with eyelets for racks. 
Off-premium meaning not a canti touring, or for example, a True Temper (late 
80s) era Trek vs the earlier 531 Treks. My sweet spot would be seven speed 
cassette or better, fat enough tires and a noticeable dent in the top tube that 
won't affect the ride at all. 

If social distancing allows, I suggest a trip to Trips for Kids/The Recyclery 
in San Rafael to look at used bikes. Not the cheapest, but supports charity 
work with inner city kids.

Carl

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[RBW] Stand up for anagrams!

[tuolumne bikes]

There's been some anagram bashing on the "Fancy Cheviot" thread. I spent at 
least 1 1/2 hours moving Scrabble tiles around while my wife and daughter 
made pizza for dinner. Then I had to find a postcard and a stamp! I'm sure 
others suffered similarly to come up with those anagrams, so it would be 
good to put them to use.

I suggest reversing the process. Instead of making up names for existing 
bikes, anagrams can be used to inspire thinking about the new kinds of 
bikes a changing world needs. 

The new world needs an auto social distancing bike. One look from potential 
riding partners at the paint, graphics, and head badge of the Nut Breath 
Greg will keep you riding solo.

The post Covid 19 world will need more cargo bikes with more cargo 
capacity. The Grunt Barge is an uber-cargo bike with Extracycle back and 
Dutch style bucket front. Trailer is available as an option. Groceries, 
building supplies, kids, and the dogs will keep you grunting along while 
you slay climate change and build thighs like tree stumps. Also an excuse 
to make a really long bike.

I'm anxiously awaiting the artwork! 

What's your favorite underutilized anagram and how can it help change the 
world?

Happy May fools day, Carl

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[RBW] Re: Causes for bike noises

[tuolumne bikes]

Creaks, usually on the downward pedal stroke of my stronger right leg: 
usually the saddle (stand up to test), worst case (twice now) cracked drop 
out. It's odd, but when you hear a noise timed to pedal cadence, the ear 
points to the pedals, crank, bb regardless of where it's actually coming 
from. I think it's uncertain enough that the bias from the brain will make 
it seem to come from the crank area.

On Friday, May 1, 2020 at 1:31:12 PM UTC-7, Clark Fitzgerald wrote:
>
> Sheldon Brown has a great article on Creaks, Clicks, & Clunks 
> .
>
> Yesterday I fixed an annoying ticking noise that happened on most crank 
> rotations, but only in warm weather. The culprit turned out to be the 
> pedals, which I forgot to grease when I installed new pedals on new cranks. 
> Another bike I had (not a Rivendell) had a bad creaking noise that turned 
> out to be from the square taper bottom bracket that was installed at the 
> factory without grease.
>
> I'm curious- what annoying noises have others fixed on their bikes? What 
> caused it?
>

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[RBW] Re: Tool for fender stays

[tuolumne bikes]

I've been able to cut them with bolt cutters without having to mark the 
stays and remove the fenders. For SKS, they get covered with the rubber 
tips, so I don't file them. But if you use bolt cutters, please wear 
glasses. I've had the cut ends shoot clear across the room.

Carl

On Tuesday, April 28, 2020 at 2:03:47 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> This is a really dumb question but I don't know the answer. I need to 
> mount some fenders on my Frank Jones and y'all seem to use a big cutting 
> tool for trimming the stays..which one do I buy? I have a Dremel and tried 
> that once, but it was an ear-splitting hot mess. I just want to lop off the 
> ends. 

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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[tuolumne bikes]

This thread has drifted a bit from my perception of the Rivendell ethos. We 
all have frustrations whether with vehicles or other road and trail users, 
and I appreciate that the shelter in place measures are affecting more 
urban people in very different ways than they are affecting me.

The Golden Gate Bridge is my ultimate model of MUP conflict. We stay in the 
city fairly often during better times, and I follow the migration across to 
Marin to ride the Headlands. For me, negotiating the bridge is time to 
relax and let it flow. Being patient and being kind to the other users on 
the bridge is very much akin to stopping for red lights on the city 
streets--it slows you down so not every bike rider does it. Efforts to 
promote bike riding as a happy and healthy way to travel suffer from our 
impatience.

When I'm working my way across the bridge among the throngs of tourists on 
rented bikes (also mixed with the pedestrians on weekdays), I treat it like 
people watching time. Most of those people probably haven't ridden a bike 
in ten years or more, and though many of them come from freezing winter 
climates, I enjoy seeing them bundled up in the mid-60s fog and wind. 
They've made the choice to try one of the more challenging and immersive 
activities available on their visit. Yes, they can be clueless to the needs 
of locals trying to travel. Well meaning attempts to communicate and share 
the space can easily fail at that density, but sometimes they way they are 
treated by rushed bikers can be downright horrible. How much goodwill for 
biking is lost when we can't bring ourselves to slow down, smile, wave, and 
be kind to others. I've always found a cheerful "Hello!" from an adequate 
distance and speed for a response to be the most effective way to let folks 
know I'm coming.

Sorry for the Pollyanna-ish rant. Go ahead and vent a bit if it helps you 
to be kind in person. I expect that is the case.

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[RBW] ISO/WTB Very tall roadish frame, short top tube

[tuolumne bikes]

My oddly proportioned mid 80s Raleigh sport touring bike has its second 
cracked dropout, so I'm looking into alternatives for fixing and/or 
replacing it. This bike has 68 cm seat tube and 56 cm top tube, and it's 
the only bike I can comfortably fit with drop bars. It serves as my road 
bike; I have others for all roads and townie/beater. 

With swept bars I can work with up to a 60 cm top tube, but I prefer to 
have more choices on bars/stems, so shorter is nice. The Raleigh has a 260 
mm head tube. If you have anything in any condition other than wrecked or 
rust bucket approaching these dimensions that you would consider selling, 
please let me know. I'm shooting for 700c in the neighborhood of 32s with 
fenders. 

Thanks, Carl

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[RBW] Re: 30 Days of Biking!

[tuolumne bikes]

Forgot to take off the rear fender for the photo.


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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[tuolumne bikes]

Good topic.

The biggest change in my personal riding has been to ride more directly 
from home which gives me more time to play (usually poke around and take 
pictures) on the way. There's a lot of life in between the cracks if you 
stop and really look.

I've been working with friends to expand the Motherlode Bicycle Coalition 
to encourage and facilitate biking of all types in our rural counties, and 
that effort is pretty much 100% on hold. I've had a blog for years 
describing local rides (Tuolumne Bikes), and while I've heard from many how 
helpful it was to them, the MLBC had scheduled our first season of pop up 
rides to build community and encourage folks to get their bikes out of the 
garage. All cancelled. Thankfully, we hadn't purchased insurance yet. 

The point is "Join us for a ride" is a much more compelling message than 
"Here's some places to ride", and making that transition is a big push out 
of the comfort zone for me and for many other rural riders that are used to 
just going. The current situation makes it extra clear how much we depend 
on each other and our communities to make biking more appealing and 
approachable for others. The flip side of the reduction in traffic.

>>Fellow riders on the road are actually friendly. I think they are slowing 
down enough (re: not concerned about PBs, or whatever their electronic 
tracking devices are telling them) to wave and say hi. It is refreshing.

CalBike is promoting "Waving Wednesdays". With any luck it would catch on 
and people wouldn't be able to remember what day it is and wave anyway. 
Don't see this going very far on Market Street in San Francisco. We wave 
here--hey there's someone else on a bike! Works for cars too.


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Re: [RBW] Wald Bag

[tuolumne bikes]

I agree with Eric and with most of the comments in response about the value 
of the local bags. It's great that the market meets so many needs. What I 
have issue with is the contradiction between wanting to widen the scope of 
biking past the stereotypes (roadie, etc) but then pushing marketing/style 
that effectively excludes those that either can't afford top shelf or that 
enjoy riding but just aren't *obsessed* with bikes and bike stuff. When do 
we invite the basic family bike shop Wald/Jandd/cheaper yet folks to the 
groovy Instagram party?  

I don't expect manufacturers to not market their products, but being 
inclusive as a community might mean we don't need all our stuff to be 
exclusive.

Carl, Columbia, CA

On Tuesday, April 7, 2020 at 9:04:48 AM UTC-7, Eric Daume wrote:
>
> I’m referring to any $200 bag made in San Francisco of organic hemp and 
> compostable plastic buckles, vs. the $50 Wald bag (and that cost includes 
> the basket). 
>
> Sorry, I just get a little burned out by bag preciousness :)
>
> Eric
>
> On Tuesday, April 7, 2020, 'Keith Swanson' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
>> Which are you referring to?  Aside from Riv I found Troutman and 
>> Porcelain Rocket when I searched. Thanks. 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2020, at 3:36 AM, Eric Daume > 
>> wrote:
>>
>> +1 to Tim’s comments. I have the bigger one that I use all the time, and 
>> I really value it. Made in the USA too! I think these bags are both under 
>> rated and overlooked as people spend a lot more money on fancier offerings.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Monday, April 6, 2020, Tim O. (Portland, OR) > > wrote:
>>
>>> They're great. I have both sizes. The medium is perfect for commuting. 
>>> The large is great if you need to snag something extra at the store. They 
>>> hold up to rain pretty well, especially if they aren't packed full and you 
>>> can fold the zipper over. Not fully waterproof in sustained hard rain. Very 
>>> convenient for everyday, around town use. Most the time I just plop in the 
>>> bag without bungies. I haven't tried other basket bags, I don't have much 
>>> to compare to, but I haven't felt much need for anything else.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Tim 
>>> PDX
>>>
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>>> .
>>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
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>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Act of Thoughtfulness

[tuolumne bikes]

Duh, picture...

On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 9:25:23 AM UTC-8, tuolumne bikes wrote:
>
> One of my Christmas presents. The blade locks closed as well as open, 6.5 
> oz, and 7" blade. Much lighter than the Corona I was carrying on Forest 
> rides. Cuts fine, we'll see about longevity. Pretty much a must for 
> exploring in the Sierra these days with tree mortality and reduced road 
> maintenance.
>

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[RBW] Re: Act of Thoughtfulness

[tuolumne bikes]

One of my Christmas presents. The blade locks closed as well as open, 6.5 
oz, and 7" blade. Much lighter than the Corona I was carrying on Forest 
rides. Cuts fine, we'll see about longevity. Pretty much a must for 
exploring in the Sierra these days with tree mortality and reduced road 
maintenance.

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[RBW] Re: Tips for mounting tubeless tires with tubes

[tuolumne bikes]

The difference between the first bead and the second is that there's the 
opposite bead and tube conspiring to push the second bead out of the groove. 
Two suggestions.

1. After starting the second bead, stuff a length of 1/4 inch nylon tube 
between the rim and bead to ensure the bead isn't being pushed out of the 
groove. Not usually necessary, but you have presented a worst case.

2. Since the valve stem fills the groove, leave the valve stem as the last 
place to push on the bead. Also, if you have to use a tool for the final push, 
the reinforcement of the tube at the stem and ability to push the stem into the 
tire may make it a bit easier to avoid pinching the tube.

Carl, Columbia, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA - 1997 All-Rounder on Bay Area CL (not mine)

[tuolumne bikes]

That's a short flume on the PG Main Ditch trail segment between Kewen 
Mill Road and Old Oak Ranch Road. That ditch segment is pretty long and 
undeveloped--five miles mostly through the Stanislaus Forest. There's a 
short video clip of riding the ditch on my IG post: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/B7sZtxRB6fv/

There's also the Utica Ditch on your side of the river, but I don't know 
how much is accessible as trail. You can see the flume from across the 
river and it looks pretty hairy. 

The Philadelphia Ditch trail goes east from Spring Gap to the South Fork 
Stanislaus--a good hike with lots of moderate length flume segments. The 
water flows over the ridge between the South Fork and Middle Fork to run a 
powerhouse on the Middle Fork.


On Friday, January 24, 2020 at 7:37:43 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Carl
>
> Can you tell me where that gangplank/catwalk is in the second photo?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> part-time Arnold,CA
>
> On Thursday, January 23, 2020 at 11:44:36 PM UTC-8, tuolumne bikes wrote:
>>
>> Here are a few from a ride today to try it with weight on the front--less 
>> than 10 pounds. More photos on Instagram @tuolumnebikes. Still a lot of 
>> changes in store.
>>
>> I'm too short torso for the drop bars that came on it. The Albastache 
>> bars came in a box with the bike. I like the reach and hand positioning, 
>> but...
>>
>> Don't want the brakes at the most forward position if I need to shift 
>> weight back to descend sketchy downhills.
>> Don't really like the chance of having the cable end pop out of the lever 
>> when releasing the straddle cable for flats etc. Fine in my garage; sucks 
>> on the side of the road.
>>
>> Will probably switch to dirtdrop stem with northroadish bar. This will 
>> also reduce the "stork" look on the stem. May put the Albastache set up on 
>> my road bike with a longer stem extension (68/55 frame).
>>
>> The bike rides nice with weight on front. Less twitchy and no wobbles.
>>
>> Let me know if you want cleaner photos--I can do some leaning on the 
>> garage door.
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 22, 2020 at 8:46:42 AM UTC-8, iamkeith wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes, congratulations and please post some pictures that you wouldn't 
>>> mind me copying.  I neglected to save the listing photo, but I at one time 
>>> assembled a collection of images of most (or all?) other known All Rounders 
>>> in those large 58-61cm sizes.
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Of Bikes and Bread

[tuolumne bikes]

Sourdough pancake recipe attached. The pancakes are on the thin side and 
far tastier than the norm, and making them includes feeding the starter. My 
wife is a sourdough nut--crust, crumb, size of the holes, whole 
wheat...always experimenting and rarely completely satisfied. It's all 
great bread to me.

Carl

On Tuesday, January 21, 2020 at 5:26:37 PM UTC-8, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> Gah, Philip, we’d be 400 pounds and diabetic if we did that. I do not know 
> how the settlers brought their starter along, but I know they slept with it 
> at night to keep it warm. There’s a guy somewhere in the PNW who died many 
> years ago, but his starter lives on. He used to have a mail-order starter 
> club. He’d send you his starter in the mail! His friends have kept it alive 
> and distribute it out for nothing but the cost of shipping, just as he did. 
>
> I bake bread twice per week. 
>
> Joe - #clemsaregems is totally my hashtag and you know it. 
>
> PS I decided we can grow Rivendell one Clem at a time. I just need some 
> really exciting hashtags. So far I have: #clemsaregems and 
> #betterlivingthroughclemistry... 
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad 
>
> > On Jan 21, 2020, at 5:17 PM, Philip Williamson  > wrote: 
> > 
> > That’s awesome! Shame the school can’t provide a vegetarian cheese 
> sandwich or something on Hamburger Day. 
> > 
> > How often do you bake bread? It looks from the recipe like the starter 
> rhythm could work without discarding any if you baked twice a day? Or no? 
> > 
> > I’m not suggesting we SHOULD, just imagining how the people-and-yeast 
> symbiosis might have worked a few generations ago. 
> > 
> > Philip who doesn’t need another hobby 
> > Santa Rosa, CA 
> > 
> > -- 
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>  
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA - 1997 All-Rounder on Bay Area CL (not mine)

[tuolumne bikes]

Thanks Kevin. I'm long legs/short torso, so tall bike/short top tube/fattish 
tires has been a need for a long time.

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[RBW] Who Has A Hubbuhubbuh?

[tuolumne bikes]

Hi Robert,

My wife and I have the xl orange with green fork sample tandem--not necessarily 
the most representative HHH. It came with Boscos front and rear and neither of 
us liked them. I prefer a 45 degree swept bar to avoid the boxed in feel. 
Unless you have an extremely long torso or run the stem backwards, the long top 
tube will rule out drop bars for the captain. I have settled on VO Tourist 
bars. 

We have done up to one week tours on it, and it rides great loaded. With two on 
one bike it's pretty much a given that the load is split front/rear. We have 
low riders with a rack top bag and handlebar bag on front. It's a tank loaded 
but handles great with no wobbles whatsoever. 

I converted the disk from drag brake to full time with the rear v-brake as back 
up and parking brake. With weight on the rear wheel, the rear brake can take on 
much more work than on a single. We run 1 3/4" tires with fenders and 2" with 
fenders off.

Transporting it is the biggest challenge. We got a Yakima Sidewinder roof top 
rack and it works fine. We'd like to be able to use Amtrak and airlines, but 
haven't crossed that bridge yet.

Carl, Columbia,CA

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[RBW] PSA - 1997 All-Rounder on Bay Area CL (not mine)

[tuolumne bikes]

Emailed them. We'll see if it's gone before I can get there.

Carl, Columbia,CA

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[RBW] Re: FS: Pletscher Inova Clem Rack

[tuolumne bikes]

Price reduced, $30 plus shipping.

On Monday, November 4, 2019 at 11:21:30 AM UTC-8, tuolumne bikes wrote:
>
> This is the exact rack in the photos for the Clem rack on the Rivendell 
> website--green fork with orange headtube. It's cleaner now. One of the 
> struts has been bent to clear the V-brake for front mounting. Otherwise in 
> great functional shape with minimal wear/scuffing. We've set up touring 
> racks, so we don't need it.
>
> $40 plus shipping from 95310
>
> Carl, Columbia, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Question about wide tire fit on 700c rims

[tuolumne bikes]

Also, since the valve stem takes up the channel, start removal and end 
installation at the stem, so the bead can be in the channel.

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[RBW] Re: Question about wide tire fit on 700c rims

[tuolumne bikes]

I went through this with the first tire changes on the Cliffhangers. The bead 
really really really has to be in the center channel. I cut some 1/4 inch nylon 
tubing into 1 1/2 inch lengths and put them in the bag with the spare tube. 
Stick them between the bead and the rim at various spots around the rim to 
force the bead into the channel. I don't use them anymore--I gotten the hang of 
it, but they're still in the tool bag for some frozen frustrating morning.They 
don't weigh much.

The foolproof way to stop fighting with the tire going back onto the shelf 
(tight part of rim) is to get the air out and lay the wheel flat, push the tire 
down around the full cicumference and let gravity keep it in the channel while 
you work with the tire irons.

Carl

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[RBW] Re: Ride/Race Report: Old Growth Classic in Santa Cruz

[tuolumne bikes]

I lived at Big Basin in the late 1990s/early 2000s when my wife was a 
ranger at the park. At that time it might have been thought pretty funny to 
propose hosting an insanely successful (sold out second year!) bike event 
on the legal to ride unpaved roads in the park and at Butano. It was all 
about not being able to ride the single track hiking trails. So congrats to 
us all for the mainstreaming of unpaved road riding and to MBOSC and park 
management for working to cooperate on this event. Keep it crumb clean at 
Big Basin! 

Carl, Columbia, CA 


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[RBW] Ride report: Tom Frost Old Priest Grade Climb--Bikes, film, and rock climbing

[tuolumne bikes]

Not about Rivendells, but I thought I'd share this due to several points of 
general interest to the group--black and white film, bike community in 
general, some cool history. It may be among the shortest rides reported on 
this list. I didn't ride my Rivendell, because it's a tandem, and this is 
*really* not the kind of riding my wife is interested in.


Old Priest Grade is the old road rising from the lower Sierra Foothills to 
Big Oak Flat and Groveland on the northern route to Yosemite. What modern 
SR 120 climbs in 4.6 miles, Old Priest Grade climbs in 1.8 miles. The grade 
averages 14 percent and maxes out at about 17. There is a pullout about 
halfway up the hill that the locals stock with gallon bottles of radiator 
water. It has heavy car traffic due to drivers avoiding the slow speeds of 
trucks, buses, and RVs ascending and descending on SR 120. There are 
multiple blind corners and little to no shoulders on OPG, so when open to 
traffic, OPG is a pretty unsafe place to ride your bike. There are much 
safer steep hills to climb. Youtube has lots of people acting stupid on OPG.


https://ridewithgps.com/routes/31054658


Tom Frost, one of the pioneer Yosemite climbers, passed away on August 24, 
2018. He was also a photographer, and he documented climbs in Yosemite from 
the late 50s and the 60s in black and white. He was also a cyclist and had 
recently wished to climb OPG; he even commissioned a frame by Rob English 
for the feat. There is a documentary of his life, climbing, and photography 
currently in production, and the film company worked with the climbing 
community and locals to close OPG for a hill climb on the one year 
anniversary of his death. Footage from the event will be part of the film. 
The Motherlode Bicycle Coalition helped with ride operations.


About 100 riders, including about 30 invited to an unsanctioned race, made 
the climb and enjoyed breakfast at the Priest Station Cafe at the top of 
the grade. Rob English won the race at about 15 minutes, while us regular 
folks clustered around 28 minutes which inspired the surprisingly 
previously unused #snailspaceline. Local roadie Erv Kroeker made the climb 
at 78 years young.


For more see:

https://motherlodebike.org/2019/09/05/tom-frost-memorial-hill-climb-on-old-priest-grade/


Info on the film with trailers and clips, articles about Tom Frost's 
photography etc. I'm not a climber, but I found his story to be pretty 
interesting:

https://flatlanderfilms.com/


Photos of the event including black and white finish line photos (Starts 
with racers--gets funkier as they go on including tweed on fixies--I'm 
guessing he won't be wearing that jacket to his next job interview. Fellow 
Riv owner Jack Becker is photo 36 on his Bridgestone, yours truly 67--just 
another hill to climb):

https://flatlanderfilms.com/bike-ride/


Carl Baker, Columbia, CA

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[RBW] Glacier Point Road in Yosemite open to bikes only Sat May 4

[tuolumne bikes]

See https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/tioga.htm

for info and updates on not yet announced bikes only dates for Tioga Road.

Glacier Point is a 36 mile round trip out-and-back from Wawona Road. I 
recall entry fee as $30/car from last year. Facilities along the road are 
usually closed, so be self-sufficient. Photo is lunch from last year. On 
bikes only days the only visitors out at the point either biked in or hiked 
up from the valley. The website isn't entirely clear, but it looks like 
Sunday may be bikes only too. Will be out there Sat on orange tandem.

Carl, Columbia, CA

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[RBW] Re: Big Bottle and Cage Recommendations

[tuolumne bikes]

If you want to use the Blackburn Outposts to carry bottles, consider adding 
nylon tubing to the areas where the cages contact the bottles. It will 
reduce (not eliminate) how badly the bottles get scarred. Slit the tubing 
lengthwise and slide on.


Wide Jandd velcro ankle straps are perfect for replacing the straps to hold 
the bottles. They will thread between the cage and frame or fork, are just 
the right length for Nalgenes, and grip well. Because they hold their shape 
well (don't sag), they are much less fiddly than the provided straps when 
removing/inserting the bottles. They are also my favorite for securely 
strapping jackets/pants onto stems or bag loops etc. They seem to always be 
available for as seconds for $5.00 on their website.
 

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[RBW] Re: Last Call: Parts donations for San Diego BSC hubbahubbah tandem

[tuolumne bikes]

Added some parts to list, please let me know where to send them. They are 
used, so I won't be offended if someone has new to contribute. I don't have 
the adapter bracket from the brake--needed it for the new brake. Thanks, 
Carl 

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[RBW] Re: A visit to Sea Otter with my Appaloosa

[tuolumne bikes]

Have contemplated a scaled down event for the less conventional bike world--the 
Be Odder Classic. The guy on the Schwinn would fit right in.

Carl, Columbia,CA

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for satellite mapping thing

[tuolumne bikes]

The cheapskate way can have additional advantages, depending on your needs. 
A cheap Android cell phone with an app like Backcountry Navigator or some 
of the other apps previously mentioned will be much cheaper than a 
dedicated handheld or bike GPS. It will usually have a much bigger 
touchscreen with better user interface and USB charging. The GPS works 
without cell service, but navigation like Google Maps needs cell data or 
wifi. 

If you carry a cell phone already, consider a (small) second phone for 
extended trip use of GPS. The "GPS phone" doesn't need a cell account--just 
connect it via wifi at home to set up the app and download maps, and keep 
it in airplane mode (with GPS on) when out in the field. The GPS function 
doesn't drain the phone battery much--it's usually the constant search for 
cell signal that kills your battery, so the "GPS phone" will usually keep 
working long after your regular cell is dead. With a USB block battery, you 
can have GPS for a pretty long trip in the boonies.

I use Backcountry Navigator Pro out in the Nationall Forest. It does 
everything a handheld does except turn by turn navigation and has detailed 
maps available for download. Caltopo maps are excellent USGS topos for the 
USA, and there are other providers for most of the rest of the world. Some 
of the fancier maps require a subscription, and the app cost about $10 when 
I bought it years ago. Always carry a paper map also.

Carl, Columbia, CA

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