[RBW] Re: FS: 2011 A. Homer Hilsen 61cm Custom Color

[Brian Campbell]

Sold

On Thursday, January 13, 2022 at 2:09:32 PM UTC-5 Brian Campbell wrote:

> Sold pending payment
>
> On Sunday, January 9, 2022 at 7:43:17 PM UTC-5 Brian Campbell wrote:
>
>> Still looking for a new steward..
>>
>> On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 3:32:05 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>
>>> Just here to say this bike is perfect, WOW.  GLWS 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, 2 January 2022 at 03:09:40 UTC-8 brendonoid wrote:
>>>
>>>> I am likewise pretty amazed this hasn't sold yet. I have been tempted 
>>>> to get a Homer the same vintage as mine 2cm smaller to run drop bars on. 
>>>> Could have been a very fun addition to my stable but alas I just threw the 
>>>> dough at a Susie.
>>>>
>>>> GLWS
>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Waterford Roadeo

[Brian Campbell]

33 w/ fenders.
On Friday, January 14, 2022 at 11:14:45 AM UTC-5 BobW wrote:

> Nice looking Roadeo!   I thought the Roadeo maxed out at 33.3 width 
> tires??  How did you manage to get 38's on there?   Are the clearances 
> really tight??
>
>
>
> On Thursday, January 13, 2022 at 8:07:33 PM UTC-5 Gabriel Bruguier wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Up for sale is my 59cm Roadeo, built by Waterford, with threaded fork.  
>> It is the Maroon colorway shown on the Riv product page 
>>  (or very close to that 
>> color).  This frame has mid-fork eyelets installed.  As far as I know, I am 
>> the third owner.  I bought it off a fellow RBWOB lister last winter, rode 
>> it over the spring and summer, but it has been stored in the garage since 
>> then.  I love the bike but I don't foresee as much use as I'd like, and 
>> would rather send it on to a new home.
>>
>> Frame is in good used shape.  There are plenty of signs of beausage on 
>> the paint, but no dents or rust.  I sprayed it with Boeshield before 
>> building it up.  It has never been crashed to my knowledge.
>>
>> Here's Riv's geometry chart with a link to PBH sizing recommendations. 
>>   My PBH is 
>> right around 85, and this size worked for me.
>>
>> Photos are here. 
>> 
>>  
>>
>> The build list is below.  The front der, wheels, brakes, brake levers, 
>> and shifters were from a previous build, but are in good shape.  Though 
>> there is some scraping on shifters and levers.  All other parts were bought 
>> new.
>>
>> I am asking $3500 for the complete bike, plus LBS packing fee, and 
>> shipping to lower 48.  Located in Lincoln, NE.  I am not interested in 
>> trades.  I might be open to parting it out, if there isn't interest in the 
>> complete.
>>
>> Please contact me off list with questions or offers.  Thank you for 
>> reading,
>> -Gabe
>>
>> Cockpit: 
>> Nitto/Crust Shaka bars, 54cm
>> Nitto/Crust stem (30 degree, 60mm)
>> TRP RRL SL levers
>> Microshift bar ends, 11 sp
>> ESI bar tape
>> Cane Creek 100 headset
>>
>> Drivetrain:
>> Wheels: Velocity A23 rims, XT hubs, hand built at Monkey Wrench Cyles 
>> 
>> Butted spokes, black hardware
>> Compass Barlow Pass EL
>> Tubes with Orange Seal sealant
>> White Industries R30 double crankset (46tX36t)
>> White Industries bottom bracket
>> Simworks bubbly pedals
>> Ultegra rear der (11 speed)
>> 9 Sp XT cassette 11-32
>> 105 front der
>>
>> Brakes:
>> Paul Racer centerpulls
>> Paul Funky Monkey cable stop
>> Paul Moon units
>>
>> Saddle: Brooks C17 carved
>> Seatpost: Nitto S65
>>
>> (Spurcycle bell in photos is not included) 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 2011 A. Homer Hilsen 61cm Custom Color

[Brian Campbell]

Sold pending payment

On Sunday, January 9, 2022 at 7:43:17 PM UTC-5 Brian Campbell wrote:

> Still looking for a new steward..
>
> On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 3:32:05 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> Just here to say this bike is perfect, WOW.  GLWS 
>>
>> On Sunday, 2 January 2022 at 03:09:40 UTC-8 brendonoid wrote:
>>
>>> I am likewise pretty amazed this hasn't sold yet. I have been tempted to 
>>> get a Homer the same vintage as mine 2cm smaller to run drop bars on. Could 
>>> have been a very fun addition to my stable but alas I just threw the dough 
>>> at a Susie.
>>>
>>> GLWS
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 2011 A. Homer Hilsen 61cm Custom Color

[Brian Campbell]

Still looking for a new steward..

On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 3:32:05 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> Just here to say this bike is perfect, WOW.  GLWS 
>
> On Sunday, 2 January 2022 at 03:09:40 UTC-8 brendonoid wrote:
>
>> I am likewise pretty amazed this hasn't sold yet. I have been tempted to 
>> get a Homer the same vintage as mine 2cm smaller to run drop bars on. Could 
>> have been a very fun addition to my stable but alas I just threw the dough 
>> at a Susie.
>>
>> GLWS
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Suggestions for better braking?

[Brian Campbell]

As others have suggested the Paul Racer brakes were a big improvement on my 
AHH vs. the Tektro 559. I have a second bike with the modern Dia Compe 610 
brakes and find that they work very well. Might they be an option?

I also recently switched to using compressionless housiing brake/shift kits 
and felt it helped quite a bit in the braking department for the two bikes 
I put them on.

On Tuesday, January 4, 2022 at 2:59:36 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> If you are going to a builder, why not have the builder add V brake posts 
> on the Sam? Of course, if there are other reasons for a new frame, they 
> please go ahead and report!
>
> I had lowrider brazeons made to my first edition Sam, the one designed 
> more sensibly for V or canti brakes.
>
> On Tue, Jan 4, 2022 at 12:30 PM Thomas Blak  wrote:
>
>> Late to the game on this one but I specifically came back to this group 
>> because I have always had problems with the braking performance with my Sam 
>> and 559 brakes. To put it bluntly this is the worst braking setup I have 
>> ever had, though my Brompton is a close second. I have tried almost 
>> everything to get the brakes to work, new cables, new housing, new salmon 
>> pads, brass ferrules. The only thing I haven't tried is machined sidewall 
>> rims which cyclist1959 suggested above. I think the solution for me is a 
>> new frame with V brakes. 
>>
>> Eric said it best "Those long reach calipers are a bad design concept." I 
>> agree 100%. 
>> On Tuesday, December 21, 2021 at 3:58:45 PM UTC-5 cycli...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I've found that rims with machined sidewalls (Velocity Dyads and Quills) 
>>> provide much better breaking than rims that do not have machined sidewalls 
>>> (VO Voyagers, Grand Bois Papillon).  FWIW.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 21, 2021 at 6:22:21 AM UTC-8 bjmi...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Again, thanks to everyone who chimed in on this thread. I actually 
 particularly love when people start talking about their own 
 situations/solutions, even if they don't apply to me...just because they 
 don't apply now doesn't mean they never will.

 Semi-resolution of my original question...

 I went ahead and ripped off the tape, installed Sliver2 shifters/pods, 
 new housing and cables, retaped and retwined...
 [image: sambars.jpg]

 I definitely see some little mistakes in the wrap, but this is my first 
 attempt at a drop bar and I'm pleased as punch. I might redo the drive 
 side 
 tape before I shellac (there are two little gaps on the inside drop and I 
 have the tiniest bit of bar showing under the hood. I also think that dark 
 blue is THE move on this sage green bike. I hated undoing Mark's work, but 
 I think for my first time doing it, it went as well as it could have. Pro 
 tip...if you're not buying the hemp twine Rivendell sells to finish your 
 bar tape, throw away your current twine and order some. Night and day 
 difference in quality and uniformity of thickness on the twine. 


 So...did it make a difference in braking?
 While I'm still a far cry from the power of V-brakes, I think new 
 cables/housing and freshly set up brakes gave me a little more grab on my 
 ride this morning. I did carefully decrease the pad/rim distance gap to 
 about 1/8" and things are definitely feeling sungger/more secure. I'm 
 still 
 going to replace the Kool Stop with the Yokozuna salmons, though. The kind 
 of riding I generally do with this bike requires VERY little braking power 
 in the first place. If I were going to make this a daily commuter, I'd 
 probably go searching for some Paul's or even try the VO Grand Cru. 
 But...I 
 have a daily commuter that stops on a dime. 

 At the end of the day, maybe the changes I made gave me a marginal 
 improvement. Even if so, I have the satisfaction of doing this kind of 
 work 
 on a bike for the first time and the peace of mind knowing that my housing 
 and cables are fresh...and that ain't nothing! 

 Thanks again for all your thoughts and feedback!

 Ben in Omaha 

 On Tue, Dec 21, 2021 at 6:29 AM ascpgh  wrote:

> Not of the reach of your Sam but my Rambouillet was considered to be a 
> pretty far reach bike, specified for the longest reach caliper out there 
> at 
> the time which was a non-group Shimano part. They were fine and I 
> replaced 
> stock pads with something similar when necessary but I was alarmed by a 
> long descent in pouring rain that came up during a local charity ride. It 
> was like there was no braking at all. 
>
> I went beyond different pads and got a set of Paul Racer center pulls 
> center mount version with the salmon pads and all is well. I have to 
> admit 
> I was in the market for more clearance around the tires so I could better 
> size fenders 

[RBW] Re: FS: 2011 A. Homer Hilsen 61cm Custom Color

[Brian Campbell]

Price Drop to $2900 and I can ship. I finally found a box big enough.

On Sunday, December 26, 2021 at 9:14:03 PM UTC-5 Brian Campbell wrote:

> Selling this 2011 A. Homer Hilsen complete, minus saddle and pedals. I 
> would like to sell this complete and am not yet interested in breaking it 
> down into a parts sale yet. I m the only owner.
>
> Made for Rivendell by Waterford cycles using a mix of True Temper Ox 
> Platimnum, Kaisei and Reynolds 725 tubing
>
> Also, I am not looking to ship this myself but will deliver to the shop of 
> your choice in the greater Philadelphia area. I will also drive an hour or 
> so to deliver and local pick-up is fine as well.
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pk56pssWXUgiLBPQ9
>
> 61cm A. Homer Hilsen
> "Grilver" color with matching painted Honjo (50mm) Fenders
> Made by Waterford Cycles
> 61cm Seat tube c-t
> 59cm top tube c-c
> 135mm rear spacing
> Schmidt Wide Body Dyno-hub front wheel (Peter White Built)
> Mavic Open Pro rims
> Rene Herse 35mm Bon Jon Pass EL tires
> Ultegra Rear Hub (8/9/10 speed) 
> 10 Speed XT Cassette 11-34
> Shimano CX70 Front Derailleur
> Shimano Triple crank (170mm)
> TA 46/36/28 Chainrings
> Shimano XT Rear Derailleur
> Nitto 80mm Deluxe Technomic Stem
> 46cm Nitto Noodle handle bars (26.0)
> Braze-on Paul Racer Brakes
> Schmidt Edelux II headlight
> Velo Lumino Tailight
> MAP Headlight Fender mount
> Internal wiring in front fork
> Internal wiring in downtube for taillight
> Tubus Fly rear rack
> Chris King 1" Threaded headset
> Newish Kool-Stop brake pads
> Shimano 10 speed indexed bar end shifters
> Nitto NJS Jaguar(?) post 27.2
> Extra set of Original Decals and some touch up paint in the correct color.
>
> Asking $3,000 with payment via Venmo or paypal with the buyer responsible 
> for any fees.
>
> Please let me know if you have any questions.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian Campbell
> Berwyn, Pa
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Legolas frame/fork & extras

[Brian Campbell]

Sold. Thanks all.

On Monday, December 27, 2021 at 9:34:49 AM UTC-5 Brian Campbell wrote:

> Sold pending payment
>
> On Monday, December 27, 2021 at 8:34:48 AM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>
>>
>> Message sent! What’s your pbh? And the widest tire you can fit on the 
>> Legolas?
>> Max not downsizing in Boston
>> On Monday, December 27, 2021 at 1:21:49 AM UTC+1 bdcamp...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Selling this 59cm Legolas frame & fork built by Mark Nobilette. 
>>> I was told by Mark at Rivendell(who I placed the order through) that 
>>> this was the last Legolas they would make, as they no longer had decals due 
>>> to the suit from the Lord of the Rings people.
>>>
>>> 59cm seat  tube c-t
>>> 58cm top tune c-c
>>> 130 rear spacing
>>> 1" quill style fork
>>> FSA headset
>>> Dia-Comp 980 cantilever brakes with straddle wire holders, new Kool Stop 
>>> Dura pads and fork mounted front cable stop
>>> 110mm Tange square taper bottom bracket (used with a Sugino 901d double 
>>> crankset)
>>> 1 set of Portland Design Works Full metal fenders 45mm
>>>
>>> The frame has front and rear rack braze-ons for LIGHT loads. It was not 
>>> built as a touring bike. It is constructed of Columbus Life & Columbus Zona 
>>> tubing, per Mark Nobilette. It has fender mounting braze-ons in the rear 
>>> and a Velo Lumino Plug Nut for front fender mounting under the fork crown.
>>>
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/tVGLmqVrAGajr4Mg7
>>>
>>> When fully built, with a Brooks saddle and pedals it weighed a bit over 
>>> 22lbs.
>>>
>>> I am asking $2,000 plus shipping via Bike Flights. I am in Berwyn, Pa 
>>> (19312) and will also deliver within an 1 hour drive or allow for local 
>>> pick up if you are in the area.
>>>
>>> Payment through Paypal of Venmo and buyer is responsible for payment of 
>>> any fees.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Brian CAmpbell
>>> Berwyn, Pa
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: 61cm Ritchey Road Frame/Fork/ Headset

[Brian Campbell]

Corwin,

It fit 28mm tires with no problem. Those tires mounted on Pacenti Brevet 
rims were closer to 30mm actual.

I was running Dura Ace Dual pivot brakes on it so they limited me on tire 
size more than the bike. I think you could fit a 32mm with a different 
brake set.

Below are some pictures to give you and idea.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cgUf7LXJVYkpcsEB8

Thanks.

Brian Campbell


On Monday, December 27, 2021 at 11:24:59 PM UTC-5 Corwin wrote:

> Hi Brian -
>
> What are the widest tires this frame will handle?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Corwin
>
> On Sunday, December 26, 2021 at 4:53:40 PM UTC-8 bdcamp...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Given the shared DNA between Ritchey & Rivendell, I thought this might be 
>> of some interest to RBW members. It is also posted on the i-BOB list.
>>
>> Selling what I believe to be a 1977 or 1978, Tom Ritchey road frame, fork 
>> and alloy Campagnolo Record headset. The frame is fully fillet brazed as 
>> was Tom's specialty.
>>
>> 61cm seat tube c-t
>> 57cm top tube c-c
>> 1" threaded Campagnolo alloy headset
>> 130mm rear spacing
>> 27.2 seat post
>>
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/WyXABuccLLtM4rR19
>>
>> I purchased this frame from the second owner (that is what he told me) 
>> who moved from Northern California to Swarthmore, Pa to teach at Swarthmore 
>> College in the 1980's.
>>
>> The bike sat in his damp basement for a couple of decades and as such 
>> needed a complete restoration to bring it back to riding condition. He also 
>> drilled the brake mounting holes so he could mount recessed brake calipers.
>>
>> I sent it to Franklin Frames where it was stripped, primed and re-painted 
>> in Imron Metallic Berry. The decals are vinyl transfers from Velocals.
>>
>> I had Jack at Franklin Frames inspect the brake mounting holes ( he said 
>> they were fine) cold set the rear to 130mm and add a second set of water 
>> bottle mounts. The bike was aligned (front & rear) and shifted flawlessly 
>> when I had it set up with 10 speed indexed Shimano components.
>>
>> I am asking $1,000 plus shipping via Bike Flight.  I am in Berwyn PA, 
>> 19312. Payment via Paypal or Venmo with the buyer to cover and fees. I am 
>> also willing to drive and hour to deliver or have some one pick up if they 
>> are local.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Brian Campbell
>> Berwyn, PA
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Legolas frame/fork & extras

[Brian Campbell]

Sold pending payment

On Monday, December 27, 2021 at 8:34:48 AM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:

>
> Message sent! What’s your pbh? And the widest tire you can fit on the 
> Legolas?
> Max not downsizing in Boston
> On Monday, December 27, 2021 at 1:21:49 AM UTC+1 bdcamp...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Selling this 59cm Legolas frame & fork built by Mark Nobilette. 
>> I was told by Mark at Rivendell(who I placed the order through) that this 
>> was the last Legolas they would make, as they no longer had decals due to 
>> the suit from the Lord of the Rings people.
>>
>> 59cm seat  tube c-t
>> 58cm top tune c-c
>> 130 rear spacing
>> 1" quill style fork
>> FSA headset
>> Dia-Comp 980 cantilever brakes with straddle wire holders, new Kool Stop 
>> Dura pads and fork mounted front cable stop
>> 110mm Tange square taper bottom bracket (used with a Sugino 901d double 
>> crankset)
>> 1 set of Portland Design Works Full metal fenders 45mm
>>
>> The frame has front and rear rack braze-ons for LIGHT loads. It was not 
>> built as a touring bike. It is constructed of Columbus Life & Columbus Zona 
>> tubing, per Mark Nobilette. It has fender mounting braze-ons in the rear 
>> and a Velo Lumino Plug Nut for front fender mounting under the fork crown.
>>
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/tVGLmqVrAGajr4Mg7
>>
>> When fully built, with a Brooks saddle and pedals it weighed a bit over 
>> 22lbs.
>>
>> I am asking $2,000 plus shipping via Bike Flights. I am in Berwyn, Pa 
>> (19312) and will also deliver within an 1 hour drive or allow for local 
>> pick up if you are in the area.
>>
>> Payment through Paypal of Venmo and buyer is responsible for payment of 
>> any fees.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Brian CAmpbell
>> Berwyn, Pa
>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: 2011 A. Homer Hilsen 61cm Custom Color

[Brian Campbell]

Selling this 2011 A. Homer Hilsen complete, minus saddle and pedals. I 
would like to sell this complete and am not yet interested in breaking it 
down into a parts sale yet. I m the only owner.

Made for Rivendell by Waterford cycles using a mix of True Temper Ox 
Platimnum, Kaisei and Reynolds 725 tubing

Also, I am not looking to ship this myself but will deliver to the shop of 
your choice in the greater Philadelphia area. I will also drive an hour or 
so to deliver and local pick-up is fine as well.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pk56pssWXUgiLBPQ9

61cm A. Homer Hilsen
"Grilver" color with matching painted Honjo (50mm) Fenders
Made by Waterford Cycles
61cm Seat tube c-t
59cm top tube c-c
135mm rear spacing
Schmidt Wide Body Dyno-hub front wheel (Peter White Built)
Mavic Open Pro rims
Rene Herse 35mm Bon Jon Pass EL tires
Ultegra Rear Hub (8/9/10 speed) 
10 Speed XT Cassette 11-34
Shimano CX70 Front Derailleur
Shimano Triple crank (170mm)
TA 46/36/28 Chainrings
Shimano XT Rear Derailleur
Nitto 80mm Deluxe Technomic Stem
46cm Nitto Noodle handle bars (26.0)
Braze-on Paul Racer Brakes
Schmidt Edelux II headlight
Velo Lumino Tailight
MAP Headlight Fender mount
Internal wiring in front fork
Internal wiring in downtube for taillight
Tubus Fly rear rack
Chris King 1" Threaded headset
Newish Kool-Stop brake pads
Shimano 10 speed indexed bar end shifters
Nitto NJS Jaguar(?) post 27.2
Extra set of Original Decals and some touch up paint in the correct color.

Asking $3,000 with payment via Venmo or paypal with the buyer responsible 
for any fees.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks,

Brian Campbell
Berwyn, Pa


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[RBW] 61cm Ritchey Road Frame/Fork/ Headset

[Brian Campbell]

Given the shared DNA between Ritchey & Rivendell, I thought this might be 
of some interest to RBW members. It is also posted on the i-BOB list.

Selling what I believe to be a 1977 or 1978, Tom Ritchey road frame, fork 
and alloy Campagnolo Record headset. The frame is fully fillet brazed as 
was Tom's specialty.

61cm seat tube c-t
57cm top tube c-c
1" threaded Campagnolo alloy headset
130mm rear spacing
27.2 seat post

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WyXABuccLLtM4rR19

I purchased this frame from the second owner (that is what he told me) who 
moved from Northern California to Swarthmore, Pa to teach at Swarthmore 
College in the 1980's.

The bike sat in his damp basement for a couple of decades and as such 
needed a complete restoration to bring it back to riding condition. He also 
drilled the brake mounting holes so he could mount recessed brake calipers.

I sent it to Franklin Frames where it was stripped, primed and re-painted 
in Imron Metallic Berry. The decals are vinyl transfers from Velocals.

I had Jack at Franklin Frames inspect the brake mounting holes ( he said 
they were fine) cold set the rear to 130mm and add a second set of water 
bottle mounts. The bike was aligned (front & rear) and shifted flawlessly 
when I had it set up with 10 speed indexed Shimano components.

I am asking $1,000 plus shipping via Bike Flight.  I am in Berwyn PA, 
19312. Payment via Paypal or Venmo with the buyer to cover and fees. I am 
also willing to drive and hour to deliver or have some one pick up if they 
are local.

Thanks,

Brian Campbell
Berwyn, PA

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[RBW] FS: 59cm Legolas frame/fork & extras

[Brian Campbell]

Selling this 59cm Legolas frame & fork built by Mark Nobilette. 
I was told by Mark at Rivendell(who I placed the order through) that this 
was the last Legolas they would make, as they no longer had decals due to 
the suit from the Lord of the Rings people.

59cm seat  tube c-t
58cm top tune c-c
130 rear spacing
1" quill style fork
FSA headset
Dia-Comp 980 cantilever brakes with straddle wire holders, new Kool Stop 
Dura pads and fork mounted front cable stop
110mm Tange square taper bottom bracket (used with a Sugino 901d double 
crankset)
1 set of Portland Design Works Full metal fenders 45mm

The frame has front and rear rack braze-ons for LIGHT loads. It was not 
built as a touring bike. It is constructed of Columbus Life & Columbus Zona 
tubing, per Mark Nobilette. It has fender mounting braze-ons in the rear 
and a Velo Lumino Plug Nut for front fender mounting under the fork crown.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tVGLmqVrAGajr4Mg7

When fully built, with a Brooks saddle and pedals it weighed a bit over 
22lbs.

I am asking $2,000 plus shipping via Bike Flights. I am in Berwyn, Pa 
(19312) and will also deliver within an 1 hour drive or allow for local 
pick up if you are in the area.

Payment through Paypal of Venmo and buyer is responsible for payment of any 
fees.

Thanks!

Brian CAmpbell
Berwyn, Pa

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Re: [RBW] Opinions re Roadeo colors

[Brian Campbell]

Let's see if this works:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/utN4Zjcr5r6xhvVv6

On Wednesday, December 8, 2021 at 3:37:19 PM UTC-5 ttoshi wrote:

> Yes, I'm very fortunate to have some beautiful bikes.  My daughter just 
> turned 14 (the picture is quite old).  She rides a ~42 cm cross check 
> ("ugly brown bike" according to her) and is demanding that I get her a 
> beautiful Betty Foy like her mom's bike (she is threatening to just steal 
> that bike).  Maybe a Platy is calling in a few years.
>
> Toshi
>
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 8, 2021 at 4:55 AM Ryan  wrote:
>
>> Especially under Eddy Merckx...I do like the orange of my 93 X0-1. Not 
>> sure it made ME any faster
>>
>> Your red Roadeo is very racyI think you had a grassy-green custom 
>> built up shortly after I got mine, correct? You have some beautiful bikes 
>> there, also  a lovely shot of your daughter beside one of your bikes. A 
>> future cyclist?
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 7, 2021 at 7:38:09 PM UTC-6 ttoshi wrote:
>>
>>> Ryan, that's a beautiful bike.  I originally wanted my Roadeo to have a 
>>> darker Bing cherry color, but after all these years I've had the bike, I'm 
>>> sure that I'm actually faster with this hotter red color.  I can't argue 
>>> with the fact that orange is the fastest color though.
>>>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/42771204@N00/8443093499/
>>>
>>> Toshi
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Dec 7, 2021 at 3:08 PM Ryan  wrote:
>>>
 I do like green and Harvest Gold or mustard to you clem owners and I 
 really like maroon with cream; one of the Roadeos had that maroon/cream 
 colour scheme that I thought looked elegant and understated. 

 I like maroon so much I had my 2016  custom mixte painted in that 
 colour. 

 Back to the wayback machine for the work-in-process minus Brooks Select 
 and drivetrain...but you get the idea

 https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/grant-petersens-blog/good-reads-jr  

 This was of course when I was still gainfully employed as a software 
 developer and decided I should buy myself a nice retirement 
 present...so...let's just say I pretty much went full out with the 
 build...however the bike needs a seatpost with more setback ...so...for my 
 birthday I ordered a lugged seatpost to replace  the S83 it already has.

 On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 7:58:56 PM UTC-6 reynoldslugs wrote:

> P.s., as shown in the pics, mine is the  “official” Team Strawberry 
> Pancakes color scheme.
>
> Campana in, Testico Sicca 
>
> Max B
>
> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 5:55:54 PM UTC-8 reynoldslugs wrote:
>
>> Have fun with this.  I went through the same exercise.  Each of these 
>> suggestion thus far have merit and a certain flair.
>>
>> I went with the conservative, classic and relatively rare maroon and 
>> battleship grey:
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/gp/41563482@N06/60vu9a
>>
>> Whatever the color, these are great bikes.
>>
>> Max Beach
>> Santa Rosa CA
>>
>> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 3:03:16 PM UTC-8 Kushan wrote:
>>
>>> Rivendell used to have a AHH color called Copper Metallic 
>>> . Why 
>>> they stop carrying this color is beyond me. If I were to have any of my 
>>> bikes repainted, it would be this color scheme. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 2:16:16 PM UTC-8 Matt Beecher wrote:
>>>
 There are not enough purple bikes, though I read a post a while 
 back where Rivendell recognized that.  I have a purple Saluki and a 
 purple 
 XO-2.  The purple Saluki is one of my favorites and made the rounds 
 before 
 I got it.  

 Here is a previous owner of my Saluki, for the color.  

 http://dr2dc.blogspot.com/2014/03/new-bike-day.html

 Best regards,
 Matt B in Oswego, IL

 On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 12:29:01 PM UTC-6 bjmi...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I’m ALL in on green bikes (or shades of green) with my Russian Sub 
> Green Atlantis and Sage Green Sam. If I were getting a custom or 
> having a 
> Rodeo repainted, it’d HAVE to be green with cream accents. No 
> question.
>
> Ben, who would argue it is quite easy being green, in Omaha
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Dec 6, 2021, at 12:06 PM, David Hallerman  
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> British Racing Green, or a shade lighter, with a complementary 
> off-white downtube panel.
>
> Classic, and goes nicely with tanwall tires and honey shaded B.17s.
>
> I love both seeing and imagining bicycle paint jobs. Want to make 
> my wife laugh? See a car color you like, and say to her “Wouldn’t 
> that make 

[RBW] Re: Opinions re Roadeo colors

[Brian Campbell]

My Legolas was painted the same color green as the now defunct Rivendell 
Redwood. I would post a pic but can't seem to get one to show up using and 
iphone...

On Tuesday, December 7, 2021 at 1:52:47 PM UTC-5 Paul G wrote:

> ^^^ Thumbs up for orange/cream. Remember the creamsicle Rambouillets?
>
> [image: 2599416524_f7b2e34a50_o (1).jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, December 7, 2021 at 10:42:12 AM UTC-8 lconley wrote:
>
>> As has been pointed out here before, it is a proven fact that orange 
>> bikes are faster and Molteni orange are the fastest of the orange bikes.
>> [image: frame.jpg]
>>
>> [image: IMG_0595su.jpg]
>>
>> I am also partial to yellow.
>>
>> [image: Capture.JPG]
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 12:25:18 PM UTC-5 Jim S. wrote:
>>
>>> Hi, I recently obtained a used Roadeo. It needs a new paint job. Does 
>>> anyone have opinions on the ideal colors for a Roadeo? Photos are 
>>> encouraged, of course.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Opinions re Roadeo colors

[Brian Campbell]

test
On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 12:25:18 PM UTC-5 Jim S. wrote:

> Hi, I recently obtained a used Roadeo. It needs a new paint job. Does 
> anyone have opinions on the ideal colors for a Roadeo? Photos are 
> encouraged, of course.

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Re: [RBW] Roadini 650b conversion

[Brian Campbell]

I have a 61cm,  2011, A. Homer Hilsen with braze-on Paul racers, internal 
wiring, custom paint that runs 38mm with full fenders. I am the only owner 
since I bought the frame from Riv. It will be going up for sale soon to 
help offset a long over-due kitchen renovation. Let me know if you have 
interest and I can send a set of pictures. I am near Philadelphia.

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:11:17 PM UTC-5 Kushan wrote:

> Thanks Joe and Eric. I guess my Roadini will be going up for sale soon :) 
>
> On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 12:04:50 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I know you asked Eric but I'll chime in anyway, it's what I do!
>>
>> I think the Roadini is a fine road bike as is, and will work great for 
>> someone else if your needs have changed and you need bigger tires, fenders, 
>> and brakes that will work with both in wet weather. There's a lot of 
>> v-brake Rivs that fit that picture, plus disc bikes like the Pass Hunter. 
>> You're gettin' a new bike! 
>>
>> Joe Bernard
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 11:17:09 AM UTC-8 Kushan wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks all for your thoughts so far. This is shaping up to be a more 
>>> complicated change than I thought (but then again, aren't all bike changes 
>>> are?) ... 
>>>
>>> Joe - I like your suggestion of using centerpulls. I actually thought 
>>> that center pull required dedicated braze-on on frames but a quick research 
>>> indicated that they can be fork crown mounted similar to calipers.
>>>
>>> Eric - The discussion so far is definately dissudaing me but out of 
>>> curiousity - does your take on low stopping power with long reach calipers 
>>> + wet rims extend to center pull brakes as well? I am wondering if it woul 
>>> be better off getting a disc braked bike (e.g. VO Pass Hunter) instead of 
>>> mucking around with 650bs on Roadini. 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 10:15:12 AM UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:
>>>
 Long reach calipers + wet rims = no noticeable stopping power.  Not 
 recommended, even if you can live with a very low bottom bracket. 

 Eric

 On Wednesday, November 17, 2021, Kushan  wrote:

> Hi all -
>
> I currently own a 2020 Roadini (61 cm) with 38 mm slick tires. I have 
> tried 32 mm and 35 mm in past but find 38 mm perfect in terms of comfort 
> vs. speed trade off. I am planning to move to the land of daily rain 
> (Seattle!!) in a near future and have been told that permanent fenders 
> are 
> a must have for getting any real use out of the bike. 
>
> The problem is that I don't want to use 32 mm tires (which is the 
> advertised max clearance with fenders) for this frame. I am contemplating 
> if conversion to 650b wheels will give me sufficient clearance for 38 mm 
> tires with fender (smaller frame 650b Roadinis are known to clear upto 42 
> mm). 
>
> My questions to the group are:
> - Is this even an option or would the chain/seat stays and fork will 
> simply not cover this much tire + fenders?
> - Based on Rivendell 650b conversion guide, the conversion should be 
> straightforward by switching to long reach caliper brakes and bottom 
> bracket will have sufficient clearance for 170 mm cranks. However, I 
> wanted 
> to see if anyone has attempted this conversion before and what their 
> experience was. 
>
> Best
> Kushan
>
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> 
> .
>


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[RBW] Re: 11 speed cassette for pre-2017 Homer?

[Brian Campbell]

This might be wworth a look.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cazQt5oleo4

On Monday, November 8, 2021 at 11:49:00 AM UTC-5 jkg...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks!
>
> On Saturday, November 6, 2021 at 3:24:20 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
>> This is a good resource to keep btw about compatibility .   
>> https://bike.bikegremlin.com/category/technical-part/compatibility/
>>
>> On Saturday, November 6, 2021 at 6:18:16 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> Do you really want to use 11-speed stuff Jason, or are you letting the 
>>> 105 stuff you have dictate what you ride ? Your frame is 135mm spacing so 
>>> an 11sp capable cassette body will work. But I'm getting the impression 
>>> you're letting the derailleurs you have yank your chain, so to speak. With 
>>> the 8-10sp stuff you have a lot more flexibility, and you won't have to 
>>> replace the 350 freehub body, assuming it is the 8-10sp version. 
>>> Derailleurs are easy to sell and buy. The obvious thing to me is simply get 
>>> a replacement FD for the one that "broke" and be on your merry way. How 
>>> does a FD break, by the way ? 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, November 6, 2021 at 4:18:19 PM UTC-4 jkg...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I have a technical question and can't find an answer, so I'm hoping 
 that some with experience may be able to help.

 I'll put the details below, in case anyone wants them, but my question 
 is this:  *Does anyone run an 11 speed cassette with a pre-2017 Homer?*  
 My Homer is 2011.

 Details:
 The front derailleur on my new-to-me 2011 Homer broke the other day.  
 For a number of reasons, I am considering putting the nearly Shimano 105 
 front and rear derailleurs on the bike, which would require an 11 speed 
 cassette, which I also have.  The 11 speed drivetrain doesn't work on my 
 1980s bike that I foolishly bought them for.  

 To put the cassette on the hub, I need to replace the free hub body on 
 the rear hub (DT Swiss 350).  Apparently it's easy to do, but the people 
 at 
 DT Swiss don't know if the frame is compatible with an 11 speed cassette 
 and say the only way to know is by trying.  

 I'd prefer not to buy the part only to discover that it doesn't fit -- 
 that's how I wound up with the 105 parts in the first place.  Hoping that 
 someone here might have the set up.

 Thanks,
 jason




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[RBW] WTB/WTT: Shimano CX70 Front Derailleur

[Brian Campbell]

Hi. Wondering if anyone who has transitioned to 1x shifting, or in the 
parts pile<, that they woul be willing to part with?

I could use either clamp on or braze-on style in the bottom pull format.

Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] WTB / ISO - A. Homer Hilsen, 58cm

[Brian Campbell]

I have a PBH of 87 and a 61ch AHH (old style). Let me know if you might 
want some pictures.

On Sunday, October 24, 2021 at 4:39:47 PM UTC-4 jro wrote:

> Bump
>
> I’m still on the lookout for an A. Homer Hilsen (58-61cm - appropriate for 
> 87 pbh).
>
> If you happen to have one you’re willing to part with, please let me know.
>
> A couple interesting opportunities have come up, but I remain hopeful that 
> I might find a used AHH.
>
>
> Thanks for reading!
>
>
> Jason
>
> Oak Park, IL
> On Sunday, October 17, 2021 at 4:36:16 PM UTC-5 jro wrote:
>
>> Mathieu, Eric, and Ryan - thanks for the feedback so far.
>>
>>
>> @Mathieu - Totally agreed - the AHH at Mack’s was in all ways a dreamy 
>> bike and a joy to ride. It was listed as 61.5cm, and by the book was really 
>> close to fitting my PBH (87). It felt just a slight bit tall for me, but I 
>> debated buying it anyways. In the end, I decided to hold out for something 
>> that feels 100% natural. I’m finding that my particular PBH is transitional 
>> for many of the Riv frames and could go either up or down a size. Thanks 
>> for mentioning the San Marcos at Mack’s - definitely worth a shot to check 
>> if it fits.
>>
>>
>> @Eric - Cheers!
>>
>>
>> @John - The Hillborne posted a couple days back is a beaut’. Somehow I’ve 
>> become intent on a blue frame, which the AHHs seem to consistently feature, 
>> so I’m holding out for one for now. Since initially posting this, I’ve been 
>> in contact with a former Riv dealer who has a nice grey/blue SH in a close 
>> size, which I’m hoping might work out... Thanks for the note.
>>
>>
>> Jason
>>
>> Oak Park, IL
>>
>> On Saturday, October 16, 2021 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hey, Jason
>>>
>>> While it's not an AHH, maybe the gold  57 Sam Hilllborne  someone posted 
>>> today  is worth a look. Nice looking frame and it's a great colour. But if 
>>> that's not an option, good luck with your search!
>>> On Saturday, October 16, 2021 at 6:24:18 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Best of luck with your search, Jason. I'm glad the scans have been 
 helpful!

 On Saturday, October 16, 2021 at 2:20:47 PM UTC-4 mathie...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Good afternoon Jason,
>
> I got a chance to ride that same AHH over at Mack’s and had the 
> opposite problem - the bike rode like an absolute dream but was just a 
> little too small for me.
>
> Which unfortunately means that anything in my stable would also be a 
> little large for you.
>
> I think that AHH was a 61cm which would make it the same size as the 
> bike that just got posted up for sale but it might be worth chatting with 
> the owner.
>
> Go Huskies!
>
> Mathieu Brown
>
> Sent from my iPhone.
>
> On Oct 16, 2021, at 11:08 AM, jro  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Hi Riv’ers,
>
> I post this in hopes someone in the RBWOB might have a sadly unused 
> AHH in their stable, wishing to find a new Home for their Homer.
>
> I’m looking for a size 58cm or thereabouts (appropriate for an 87.3 
> PBH). A frameset would be preferred, but a built up bike would also be 
> great. If you have one you’re willing to give up, please let me know!
>
>
> The RWB Owners Bunch has been a resoundingly useful resource since 
> I’ve gone from admiring these beautiful bikes from a distance for some 
> time 
> to finding myself in the market to own one. Eric and Reed’s cataloguing 
> of 
> past Rivendell Readers and literature has been valuable in helping get an 
> understanding of the history of these fine bikes and the ideas behind 
> them. 
> Mack’s Bike and Goods in Evanston, IL turned me on to this group after I 
> test rode a Riv in their shop recently that was, unfortunately, slightly 
> too big. I’m happy they did so.
>
> If I’m unable to locate a used one, I’ll likely be entering the lotto 
> for one of the new ones released later this year (or however the Walnut 
> Creekers decide to to release after the Clem Ls). I’ve also had an eye on 
> the “used” threads to see if one might come up eventually. At any rate, 
> glad to have found this community and thanks for reading.
>
>
> Jason
>
> Oak Park, IL
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Nitto Technomic Deluxe/Pearl 80mm 26.0

[Brian Campbell]

Howdy all.

I am in the midst of a reconfiguration of my Legolas. I am currently 
looking for an 80mm Technomic Deluxe or Pearl Stem ( or Dia Compe ENE/ 
Soma) that is 80mm, with 26.0 bar size. I don't need the extra length of 
the Technonic for this build. 

Thanks!

Brian Campbell
Berwyn, PA

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Dia Compe 980 Brakeset

[Brian Campbell]

Thanks Mike! I got the Crust notification via email and brakes have been 
bought.

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 1:10:40 PM UTC-4 Mike Godwin wrote:

> Hey Brian, Crust, a while back, had silver and black 980s on their web 
> pages for a reasonable price.
>
> Mike SLO CA
>
> On Sunday, October 3, 2021 at 12:28:38 PM UTC-7 bdcamp...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Howdy.
>>
>> I am looking for set (front and rear) of these brakes in sliver and 
>> looking for the modern version, not the classic version.
>>
>> Please contact me if you have a set that you would like to re-home.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Brian
>> Berwyn, PA
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: And the winner of best handlebar is....

[Brian Campbell]

Agreed. #teamnoodle

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 7:49:18 PM UTC-4 mrb wrote:

> The 'stache is nice but NOODLE IS BEST!
>
> #teamnoodle
>
> On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 7:34:33 PM UTC-4 Berkeleyan wrote:
>
>> Agree. I have Albastache bars on my new Riv-ish Custom, and they're 
>> really good. I had Moustache bars and then Noodles on my actual Riv custom 
>> over the past 22 years, and think these are the right bars for at least the 
>> next decade. 
>>
>> - Andrew, Berkeley
>>
>> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kTnjBCS/0/L/i-kTnjBCS-L.jpg
>>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Dia Compe 980 Brakeset

[Brian Campbell]

Howdy.

I am looking for set (front and rear) of these brakes in sliver and looking 
for the modern version, not the classic version.

Please contact me if you have a set that you would like to re-home.

Thanks.

Brian
Berwyn, PA

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[RBW] Re: Switching hosts for this forum?

[Brian Campbell]

I would join. I mostly use my iphone now and laptop less so. This format 
does not lend itself to well to iphones. 

On Sunday, October 3, 2021 at 10:09:29 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi all -- I'm relatively new in these parts but I do love and appreciate 
> the community, information, gear swaps and laughs of the RBW Owners Bunch. 
>
> But, man, Google Groups is awful. I'm a member of a few other forums that 
> use phpBB  which is, to my mind, real nice and 
> easy to use. 
>
> Problems I see here: 
>
>- Generally difficult to keep up with rolling posts, format doesn't 
>lend to quick scanning and visual organization
>- Threads don't have pages! Infinite scroll
>- DMs get lost
>- Sharing images is a total pain
>- We don't have discussion folders for broad categories. Spitballing 
>here but we could have: General discussion, For Sale, Repairs and 
>maintenance, etc. 
>- A For Sale folder with a tagged/pinned mega thread with frames for 
>sale would be cool, supplemented by our rolling gear posts. 
>
> I believe phpbb would add some much needed functionality, editing 
> capability, sharing capability and browsing capability! I have not done *any 
> *research into the cost or what it would take to set up a new forum but 
> I'd wager that a few of us would gladly chip in to cover the costs. 
>
> Food for thought. Perhaps this has been discussed previously. But I think 
> there are better ways for us to get together. 
>
> Did I mention Google groups is awful?
>
> Okay, peace and love!
> Eric
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: SunXCD cranks, Nitto posts/stems Compass Tires

[Brian Campbell]

Final bump and price adjustment. Closing out later  his week. Thanks again 
to folks who have purchased items. 

 *Pictures here:*
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6

*Crankset:*
Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun XCD Chainrings 170mm. 
$225. Chainring bolts to make it a double included. Can also run TA ProVis 
V rings as well, 50.4 BCD. Arms flair a bit so no issue with modern/shaped 
FD cages.
*Stems*
Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $35
*Handle Bars*
Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $40
*Brakes*
Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $75  

On Wednesday, September 15, 2021 at 9:19:23 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:

> *Pictures here:*
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
>
> *Crankset:*
> Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun XCD Chainrings 170mm. 
> $250. Chainring bolts to make it a double included. Can also run TA ProVis 
> V rings as well, 50.4 BCD. Arms flair a bit so no issue with modern/shaped 
> FD cages.
> *Stems*
> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
> *Handle Bars*
> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
> *Brakes*
> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $85  
>
>
> On Wednesday, September 15, 2021 at 3:17:20 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>
>>   Updated List
>>
>> *Pictures here:*
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
>>
>> *Crankset:*
>> Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun XCD Chainrings 
>> 170mm. $250. Chainring bolts to make it a double included. Can also run TA 
>> ProVis V rings as well, 50.4 BCD. Arms flair a bit so no issue with 
>> modern/shaped FD cages.
>> *Seat post*
>> Thomson Elite 27.2 w/setback 27.2 250mm $55
>> *Stems*
>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>> *Handle Bars*
>> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>> *Brakes*
>> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $85  
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 14, 2021 at 4:53:54 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks to all who have purchased items. Here is an updated list:
>>> *Pictures here:*
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
>>> *Updated*
>>> *Cranksets:*
>>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun XCD Chainrings 
>>> 170mm. $250 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>>> *Seat posts*
>>> 1. Thomson Masterpiece w/setback 27.2 250mm $65
>>> 2.Thomson Elite 27.2 w/setback 27.2250mm  $75
>>> *Stems*
>>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>>> *Handle Bars*
>>> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>>> *Tires-All 700c*
>>> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $65
>>> *Other*
>>> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $95
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, September 14, 2021 at 10:04:33 AM UTC-4 Sam Perez wrote:
>>>
>>>> Is the seat post the 250 or 300 length?
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Sep 14, 2021, at 4:07 AM, Brian Campbell  
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> 
>>>> *Updated*
>>>> *Cranksets:*
>>>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 
>>>> 170mm. $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>>>> *Seat posts*
>>>> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>>>>
>>>> *Stems*
>>>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>>>>
>>>> *Handle Bars*
>>>>
>>>> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
>>>> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>>>>
>>>> *Tires-All 700c*
>>>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
>>>> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
>>>> *Other*
>>>>
>>>> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125
>>>>
>>>> On Sunday, September 12, 2021 at 8:03:56 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> *Updated*
>>>>> *Cranksets:*
>>>>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 
>>>>> 170mm. $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>>>>> 2. Sun XCD Triple 44/34/28 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>>>>> double. $275 
>>>>> (Stock dust caps).
>>>>> 3. Sun XCD Triple 46/34/30 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>>>>> double. $275 (8mm crank bolts)
>>>>>
>>>>> *Seat posts*
>>>>> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>>>>>
>>>>> 3. Thomson Elite $

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: SunXCD cranks, Nitto posts/stems Compass Tires

[Brian Campbell]

*Pictures here:*
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6

*Crankset:*
Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun XCD Chainrings 170mm. 
$250. Chainring bolts to make it a double included. Can also run TA ProVis 
V rings as well, 50.4 BCD. Arms flair a bit so no issue with modern/shaped 
FD cages.
*Stems*
Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
*Handle Bars*
Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
*Brakes*
Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $85  


On Wednesday, September 15, 2021 at 3:17:20 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:

>   Updated List
>
> *Pictures here:*
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
>
> *Crankset:*
> Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun XCD Chainrings 170mm. 
> $250. Chainring bolts to make it a double included. Can also run TA ProVis 
> V rings as well, 50.4 BCD. Arms flair a bit so no issue with modern/shaped 
> FD cages.
> *Seat post*
> Thomson Elite 27.2 w/setback 27.2 250mm $55
> *Stems*
> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
> *Handle Bars*
> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
> *Brakes*
> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $85  
>
> On Tuesday, September 14, 2021 at 4:53:54 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>
>> Thanks to all who have purchased items. Here is an updated list:
>> *Pictures here:*
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
>> *Updated*
>> *Cranksets:*
>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun XCD Chainrings 
>> 170mm. $250 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>> *Seat posts*
>> 1. Thomson Masterpiece w/setback 27.2 250mm $65
>> 2.Thomson Elite 27.2 w/setback 27.2250mm  $75
>> *Stems*
>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>> *Handle Bars*
>> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>> *Tires-All 700c*
>> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $65
>> *Other*
>> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $95
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 14, 2021 at 10:04:33 AM UTC-4 Sam Perez wrote:
>>
>>> Is the seat post the 250 or 300 length?
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Sep 14, 2021, at 4:07 AM, Brian Campbell  wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>> *Updated*
>>> *Cranksets:*
>>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
>>> $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>>> *Seat posts*
>>> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>>>
>>> *Stems*
>>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>>>
>>> *Handle Bars*
>>>
>>> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
>>> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>>>
>>> *Tires-All 700c*
>>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
>>> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
>>> *Other*
>>>
>>> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125
>>>
>>> On Sunday, September 12, 2021 at 8:03:56 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>>>
>>>> *Updated*
>>>> *Cranksets:*
>>>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 
>>>> 170mm. $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>>>> 2. Sun XCD Triple 44/34/28 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>>>> double. $275 
>>>> (Stock dust caps).
>>>> 3. Sun XCD Triple 46/34/30 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>>>> double. $275 (8mm crank bolts)
>>>>
>>>> *Seat posts*
>>>> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>>>>
>>>> 3. Thomson Elite $85 27.2
>>>> 4. Thomson Masterpiece $75 27.2
>>>>
>>>> *Stems*
>>>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>>>> Nitto Technomic Deluxe 26.0/100mm $50
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *Levers*
>>>> Cane Creek Drop bar lever for V-brakes. Never used. $50
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *Handle Bars*
>>>> Deda Zero 100 handle bars 31.8 46cm $45
>>>> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
>>>> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>>>>
>>>> *Tires-All 700c*
>>>> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Black)
>>>> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Tan)
>>>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
>>>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $115 (Tan) Not tubless compatible, I think
>>>> Panaracer Gravel King SK+ 38mm $75
>>>> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
>>>> *Other*
>>>>
>>>> Box One Min V brakes for

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: SunXCD cranks, Nitto posts/stems Compass Tires

[Brian Campbell]

  Updated List

*Pictures here:*
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6

*Crankset:*
Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun XCD Chainrings 170mm. 
$250. Chainring bolts to make it a double included. Can also run TA ProVis 
V rings as well, 50.4 BCD. Arms flair a bit so no issue with modern/shaped 
FD cages.
*Seat post*
Thomson Elite 27.2 w/setback 27.2 250mm $55
*Stems*
Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
*Handle Bars*
Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
*Brakes*
Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $85  

On Tuesday, September 14, 2021 at 4:53:54 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:

> Thanks to all who have purchased items. Here is an updated list:
> *Pictures here:*
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
> *Updated*
> *Cranksets:*
> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun XCD Chainrings 
> 170mm. $250 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
> *Seat posts*
> 1. Thomson Masterpiece w/setback 27.2 250mm $65
> 2.Thomson Elite 27.2 w/setback 27.2250mm  $75
> *Stems*
> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
> *Handle Bars*
> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
> *Tires-All 700c*
> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $65
> *Other*
> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $95
>
> On Tuesday, September 14, 2021 at 10:04:33 AM UTC-4 Sam Perez wrote:
>
>> Is the seat post the 250 or 300 length?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 14, 2021, at 4:07 AM, Brian Campbell  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> *Updated*
>> *Cranksets:*
>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
>> $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>> *Seat posts*
>> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>>
>> *Stems*
>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>>
>> *Handle Bars*
>>
>> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
>> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>>
>> *Tires-All 700c*
>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
>> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
>> *Other*
>>
>> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125
>>
>> On Sunday, September 12, 2021 at 8:03:56 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>>
>>> *Updated*
>>> *Cranksets:*
>>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
>>> $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>>> 2. Sun XCD Triple 44/34/28 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>>> double. $275 
>>> (Stock dust caps).
>>> 3. Sun XCD Triple 46/34/30 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>>> double. $275 (8mm crank bolts)
>>>
>>> *Seat posts*
>>> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>>>
>>> 3. Thomson Elite $85 27.2
>>> 4. Thomson Masterpiece $75 27.2
>>>
>>> *Stems*
>>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>>> Nitto Technomic Deluxe 26.0/100mm $50
>>>
>>>
>>> *Levers*
>>> Cane Creek Drop bar lever for V-brakes. Never used. $50
>>>
>>>
>>> *Handle Bars*
>>> Deda Zero 100 handle bars 31.8 46cm $45
>>> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
>>> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>>>
>>> *Tires-All 700c*
>>> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Black)
>>> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Tan)
>>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
>>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $115 (Tan) Not tubless compatible, I think
>>> Panaracer Gravel King SK+ 38mm $75
>>> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
>>> *Other*
>>>
>>> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125
>>>
>>> Please ask any questions.
>>>
>>> Brian Campbell
>>> Berwyn, PA
>>>
>>> On Sunday, September 12, 2021 at 5:30:45 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>>>
>>>> Howdy all. 
>>>>
>>>> Selling off some extra things. All prices include shipping to the lower 
>>>> 48 states via USPS. Looking to sell these items not currently looking for 
>>>> any trades.
>>>>
>>>> All payment through either Paypal (Friends and Family or you cover fees 
>>>> for other payment options) or Venmo.
>>>>
>>>> Happy to do a local pick up for anyone close by. I am and my whole 
>>>> family are fully vaccinated.
>>>>
>>>> Please follow the link for pictures:
>>>>
>>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
>>>>
>>>> *Cranks

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: SunXCD cranks, Nitto posts/stems Compass Tires

[Brian Campbell]

Thanks to all who have purchased items. Here is an updated list:
*Pictures here:*
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
*Updated*
*Cranksets:*
1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun XCD Chainrings 
170mm. $250 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
*Seat posts*
1. Thomson Masterpiece w/setback 27.2 250mm $65
2.Thomson Elite 27.2 w/setback 27.2250mm  $75
*Stems*
Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
*Handle Bars*
Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
*Tires-All 700c*
Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $65
*Other*
Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $95

On Tuesday, September 14, 2021 at 10:04:33 AM UTC-4 Sam Perez wrote:

> Is the seat post the 250 or 300 length?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 14, 2021, at 4:07 AM, Brian Campbell  wrote:
>
> 
> *Updated*
> *Cranksets:*
> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
> $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
> *Seat posts*
> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>
> *Stems*
> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>
> *Handle Bars*
>
> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>
> *Tires-All 700c*
> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
> *Other*
>
> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125
>
> On Sunday, September 12, 2021 at 8:03:56 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>
>> *Updated*
>> *Cranksets:*
>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
>> $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>> 2. Sun XCD Triple 44/34/28 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>> double. $275 
>> (Stock dust caps).
>> 3. Sun XCD Triple 46/34/30 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>> double. $275 (8mm crank bolts)
>>
>> *Seat posts*
>> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>>
>> 3. Thomson Elite $85 27.2
>> 4. Thomson Masterpiece $75 27.2
>>
>> *Stems*
>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>> Nitto Technomic Deluxe 26.0/100mm $50
>>
>>
>> *Levers*
>> Cane Creek Drop bar lever for V-brakes. Never used. $50
>>
>>
>> *Handle Bars*
>> Deda Zero 100 handle bars 31.8 46cm $45
>> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
>> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>>
>> *Tires-All 700c*
>> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Black)
>> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Tan)
>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $115 (Tan) Not tubless compatible, I think
>> Panaracer Gravel King SK+ 38mm $75
>> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
>> *Other*
>>
>> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125
>>
>> Please ask any questions.
>>
>> Brian Campbell
>> Berwyn, PA
>>
>> On Sunday, September 12, 2021 at 5:30:45 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>>
>>> Howdy all. 
>>>
>>> Selling off some extra things. All prices include shipping to the lower 
>>> 48 states via USPS. Looking to sell these items not currently looking for 
>>> any trades.
>>>
>>> All payment through either Paypal (Friends and Family or you cover fees 
>>> for other payment options) or Venmo.
>>>
>>> Happy to do a local pick up for anyone close by. I am and my whole 
>>> family are fully vaccinated.
>>>
>>> Please follow the link for pictures:
>>>
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
>>>
>>> *Cranksets:*
>>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
>>> $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>>> 2. Sun XCD Triple 44/34/28 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>>> double. $275 
>>> (Stock dust caps).
>>> 3. Sun XCD Triple 46/34/30 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>>> double. $275 (8mm crank bolts)
>>>
>>> *Seat posts*
>>> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>>> 2. Nitto 65 27.2 $55
>>> 3. Thomson Elite $85 27.2
>>> 4. Thomson Masterpiece $75 27.2
>>>
>>> *Stems*
>>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>>> Nitto Technomic Deluxe 26.0/100mm $50
>>> Nitto Dirt Drop stem 100mm/26.0 $60
>>>
>>> *Levers*
>>> Cane Creek Drop bar lever for V-brakes. Never used. $50
>>> Tektro TRP Road levers $55
>>>
>>> *Handle Bars*
>>> Deda Zero 100 handle bars 31.8 46cm $45
>>> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
>>> S

[RBW] Re: FS: SunXCD cranks, Nitto posts/stems Compass Tires

[Brian Campbell]

*Updated*
*Cranksets:*
1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
$275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
*Seat posts*
1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140

*Stems*
Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40

*Handle Bars*

VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45

*Tires-All 700c*
Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
*Other*

Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125

On Sunday, September 12, 2021 at 8:03:56 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:

> *Updated*
> *Cranksets:*
> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
> $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
> 2. Sun XCD Triple 44/34/28 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a double. 
> $275 
> (Stock dust caps).
> 3. Sun XCD Triple 46/34/30 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a double. 
> $275 (8mm crank bolts)
>
> *Seat posts*
> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>
> 3. Thomson Elite $85 27.2
> 4. Thomson Masterpiece $75 27.2
>
> *Stems*
> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
> Nitto Technomic Deluxe 26.0/100mm $50
>
>
> *Levers*
> Cane Creek Drop bar lever for V-brakes. Never used. $50
>
>
> *Handle Bars*
> Deda Zero 100 handle bars 31.8 46cm $45
> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>
> *Tires-All 700c*
> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Black)
> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Tan)
> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $115 (Tan) Not tubless compatible, I think
> Panaracer Gravel King SK+ 38mm $75
> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
> *Other*
>
> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125
>
> Please ask any questions.
>
> Brian Campbell
> Berwyn, PA
>
> On Sunday, September 12, 2021 at 5:30:45 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>
>> Howdy all. 
>>
>> Selling off some extra things. All prices include shipping to the lower 
>> 48 states via USPS. Looking to sell these items not currently looking for 
>> any trades.
>>
>> All payment through either Paypal (Friends and Family or you cover fees 
>> for other payment options) or Venmo.
>>
>> Happy to do a local pick up for anyone close by. I am and my whole family 
>> are fully vaccinated.
>>
>> Please follow the link for pictures:
>>
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
>>
>> *Cranksets:*
>> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
>> $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
>> 2. Sun XCD Triple 44/34/28 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>> double. $275 
>> (Stock dust caps).
>> 3. Sun XCD Triple 46/34/30 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a 
>> double. $275 (8mm crank bolts)
>>
>> *Seat posts*
>> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
>> 2. Nitto 65 27.2 $55
>> 3. Thomson Elite $85 27.2
>> 4. Thomson Masterpiece $75 27.2
>>
>> *Stems*
>> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
>> Nitto Technomic Deluxe 26.0/100mm $50
>> Nitto Dirt Drop stem 100mm/26.0 $60
>>
>> *Levers*
>> Cane Creek Drop bar lever for V-brakes. Never used. $50
>> Tektro TRP Road levers $55
>>
>> *Handle Bars*
>> Deda Zero 100 handle bars 31.8 46cm $45
>> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
>> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>>
>> *Tires-All 700c*
>> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Black)
>> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Tan)
>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
>> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $115 (Tan) Not tubless compatible, I think
>> Panaracer Gravel King SK+ 38mm $75
>> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
>> *Other*
>> Set of VO bottle cages $35
>> Shimano 10 speed index bar end shifters $60
>> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125
>>
>> Please ask any questions.
>>
>> Brian Campbell
>> Berwyn, PA
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: SunXCD cranks, Nitto posts/stems Compass Tires

[Brian Campbell]

*Updated*
*Cranksets:*
1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
$275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
2. Sun XCD Triple 44/34/28 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a double. 
$275 
(Stock dust caps).
3. Sun XCD Triple 46/34/30 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a double. 
$275 (8mm crank bolts)

*Seat posts*
1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140

3. Thomson Elite $85 27.2
4. Thomson Masterpiece $75 27.2

*Stems*
Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
Nitto Technomic Deluxe 26.0/100mm $50


*Levers*
Cane Creek Drop bar lever for V-brakes. Never used. $50


*Handle Bars*
Deda Zero 100 handle bars 31.8 46cm $45
VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45

*Tires-All 700c*
Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Black)
Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Tan)
Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $115 (Tan) Not tubless compatible, I think
Panaracer Gravel King SK+ 38mm $75
Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
*Other*

Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125

Please ask any questions.

Brian Campbell
Berwyn, PA

On Sunday, September 12, 2021 at 5:30:45 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:

> Howdy all. 
>
> Selling off some extra things. All prices include shipping to the lower 48 
> states via USPS. Looking to sell these items not currently looking for any 
> trades.
>
> All payment through either Paypal (Friends and Family or you cover fees 
> for other payment options) or Venmo.
>
> Happy to do a local pick up for anyone close by. I am and my whole family 
> are fully vaccinated.
>
> Please follow the link for pictures:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6
>
> *Cranksets:*
> 1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
> $275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
> 2. Sun XCD Triple 44/34/28 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a double. 
> $275 
> (Stock dust caps).
> 3. Sun XCD Triple 46/34/30 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a double. 
> $275 (8mm crank bolts)
>
> *Seat posts*
> 1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
> 2. Nitto 65 27.2 $55
> 3. Thomson Elite $85 27.2
> 4. Thomson Masterpiece $75 27.2
>
> *Stems*
> Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
> Nitto Technomic Deluxe 26.0/100mm $50
> Nitto Dirt Drop stem 100mm/26.0 $60
>
> *Levers*
> Cane Creek Drop bar lever for V-brakes. Never used. $50
> Tektro TRP Road levers $55
>
> *Handle Bars*
> Deda Zero 100 handle bars 31.8 46cm $45
> VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
> Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45
>
> *Tires-All 700c*
> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Black)
> Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Tan)
> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
> Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $115 (Tan) Not tubless compatible, I think
> Panaracer Gravel King SK+ 38mm $75
> Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
> *Other*
> Set of VO bottle cages $35
> Shimano 10 speed index bar end shifters $60
> Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125
>
> Please ask any questions.
>
> Brian Campbell
> Berwyn, PA
>
>

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[RBW] FS: SunXCD cranks, Nitto posts/stems Compass Tires

[Brian Campbell]

Howdy all. 

Selling off some extra things. All prices include shipping to the lower 48 
states via USPS. Looking to sell these items not currently looking for any 
trades.

All payment through either Paypal (Friends and Family or you cover fees for 
other payment options) or Venmo.

Happy to do a local pick up for anyone close by. I am and my whole family 
are fully vaccinated.

Please follow the link for pictures:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z55XgXy1xH2jMPSZ6

*Cranksets:*
1.Electra Ticino Crank arms (Made by FSA) 44/34/30 Sun Chainrings 170mm. 
$275 Chainring bolts to make it a double included.
2. Sun XCD Triple 44/34/28 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a double. 
$275 
(Stock dust caps).
3. Sun XCD Triple 46/34/30 170mm arms. Included bolts to make if a double. 
$275 (8mm crank bolts)

*Seat posts*
1. Lugged Nitto post 27.2  $140
2. Nitto 65 27.2 $55
3. Thomson Elite $85 27.2
4. Thomson Masterpiece $75 27.2

*Stems*
Ritchey Stem 1 1/8 100mm 31.8 silver $40
Nitto Technomic Deluxe 26.0/100mm $50
Nitto Dirt Drop stem 100mm/26.0 $60

*Levers*
Cane Creek Drop bar lever for V-brakes. Never used. $50
Tektro TRP Road levers $55

*Handle Bars*
Deda Zero 100 handle bars 31.8 46cm $45
VO New Rando bar  31.8 44cm $45
Soma Portola (Never used) 26.0 $45

*Tires-All 700c*
Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Black)
Compass Stampede Pass EL 32mm $115 (Tan)
Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $100 (Black) Not tubless compatible, I think
Compass Barlow Pass EL 38mm $115 (Tan) Not tubless compatible, I think
Panaracer Gravel King SK+ 38mm $75
Vittoria Corsa Control Graphene 2.0 28mm $80
*Other*
Set of VO bottle cages $35
Shimano 10 speed index bar end shifters $60
Box One Min V brakes for standard road levers $125

Please ask any questions.

Brian Campbell
Berwyn, PA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who likes the original Atlantis?

[Brian Campbell]

I own two "old style" Rivendells:

2011 A. Homer Hilsen
2019 Legolas

I recently picked up a used, fillet brazed L' avecaise (Jeff Lyon) built 
frame with a light wieght top tube, down tube and its bit lighter overall 
than the similarly sized Legolas. The ride is great and it feels easier to 
pedal and climbs easier than either of the lugged Rivendells. I have a 46 
mile loop that I do regulalry and measure my rides on Rides with GPS. The 
L'avecaise speed was 1.6 mph faster than either of the Rivendells. I 
believe its the tubes and not the lugs.

On Thursday, August 5, 2021 at 12:25:16 PM UTC-4 Fullylugged wrote:

> Doing some interwebs reading over a lunchtime sandwich, it seems most 
> people side with Bill. Lugs are apparently stronger, and possibly prettier, 
> and they are easier to do a tube replacement with, but tube size, frame 
> geometry, wall thickness and tube alloy are more where the stiffness enters 
> in.  YMMV 
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 5, 2021, at 9:12 AM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
> Fullylugged said about lugs:  " It's not the look, it's the livelier 
> action you get in a lugged frame, I think"
>
>
> That's a pretty hot take.  I wonder how many others feel the same way?  
> The vast majority of folks attribute "liveliness" and "deadness" to tubing 
> specs:  tubing that flexes more is more lively.  Tubing that is stiffer is 
> more dead.  The prevailing theory lumps thick walled OS diameter tubing 
> bikes into the 'dead' camp, and thinwall, standard diameter tubing into the 
> 'lively' camp.  Personally, I have a bunch of bikes with standard diameter 
> thin wall tubing and a bunch of bikes with OS tubing, and I don't think of 
> any of them as being more dead than the others.  
>
> Yours is the first take I've seen attributing 'liveliness' to the lugs, or 
> that tig-welds will make an otherwise lively frame become dead.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, August 4, 2021 at 4:29:12 PM UTC-7 Fullylugged wrote:
>
>>
>> Bill wrote, " It does not have the lugged look if you need that look".
>> The Salsa and the Crust are welded frames. It's not the look, it's the 
>> livelier action you get in a lugged frame, I think.  A Rawland Norvindian 
>> felt dead underneath me, and so did a LHT.  My fullylugged Ram and Road 
>> OTOH are lively (as are my other 2 fully lugged steel bikes. An old Nashbar 
>> by Maruishi and a Waterford).  I'd take a Toyo Atlantis in a heartbeat if 
>> one came along in my size.  or an AR for that matter. 
>> No disrespect to the original color, but that new mermaid color is the 
>> bomb and I'd gladly use it for my next paint job.  
>> On Friday, July 30, 2021 at 2:31:39 PM UTC-5 Edwin W wrote:
>>
>>> The first Riv I ever saw was an Atlantis on the BART when I was living 
>>> in Berkeley in the late 2000s. Didn't know what it was at the time, but I 
>>> thought, that looks cool! Had a Sam, now a Joe, but I always loved that 
>>> original Atlantis. Not the current one with the bow-flex second tube in my 
>>> size.
>>> I think Rivendell should do a run of the original(ish) Atlantis, with 
>>> some of these aspects from those first runs:
>>>
>>>1. The color (of course)
>>>2. Single top tube (doubles aren't for everyone)
>>>3. 26' wheels in small sizes, 700c in the bigger ones (I'd be cool 
>>>with 26' in all sizes)
>>>4. 45mm chainstays (maybe a hair smaller in the smaller sizes, a 
>>>hair bigger in the large sizes)
>>>5. Clearance for 2in tires with fenders
>>>
>>> Who else would sign up for one?
>>> What other aspects would you like?
>>>
>>> Hankering for an Atlantis (61 or 64cm if you have one) in Nashville,
>>>
>>> Edwin
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Stubborn Brooks Saddle

[Brian Campbell]

Maybe this type of process would work?

https://pactour.blogspot.com/2011/01/breaking-in-leather-saddle.html

On Monday, August 2, 2021 at 12:01:53 PM UTC-4 Lynn Haas wrote:

> I have a honey colored Brooks Imperial saddle that I bought in 2018. It 
> has about 2,000 miles on it, and it looks and feels like new... in the 
> worst possible way.
>
> I've doused it in leather dressing, stored it in a hot garage for a 
> summer, and put way more miles on it than I want to contemplate. It's had 
> decent exposure to rain and more than enough heat and sweat. Today I'm 
> going to swap back to an older Brooks that is nicely broken in, but that I 
> don't want to use long term for multiple reasons.
>
> What to do?
>
> Lynn 
> (just moved to Iowa - anyone in Cedar Rapids want to do a happy hour ride?)
>

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[RBW] Re: Yet another round of name that sound

[Brian Campbell]

I would try the following (assumning you have not already):

1. Swap the bb.
2. Light bit of grease of the tapers when installing the cranks
3. Uninstall and re-install the cassette
4. Check the chain for wear and make sure the master link is proerly 
secured.
5. Check the front derailer adujustment to make sure the cage it not 
hitting the chain or possibly somethig else
6. If you re wearing cleated shoes make sure the cleats are tight. Lower 
gearrs means lower pressure/contact with the pedals.
7.  Make sure the chainring bolts are tight.
8. IS the spacer (if there is one for 11 speed ) the correct width?

Good luck and hope you solve it quickly!

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 11:47:06 AM UTC-4 brettjc...@gmail.com wrote:

> This is going to sound crazy, but is it the saddle, seatpost, or their 
> interface? That's happened to me more than once, and I've chased sounds 
> that I'm sure are bottom bracket, crank, or cassette related only to 
> discover that in certain gears or at certain effort levels, my saddle is 
> clicking. (In fact, this is happening with a Berthoud on my NFE at the 
> moment. It only clicks when I shift my weight and ride upright at low 
> cadence). 
>
> Just a thought...
> Brett in Portland
>
> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 5:35:26 AM UTC-7 David Wadstrup wrote:
>
>> We've played this game before, and I'm reluctant to begin another round. 
>>  But after a fruitless deep dive into a general internet search trying to 
>> identify the source of my sound, I thought bringing up my issue here might 
>> be of help.  Here goes
>>
>> I am the proud owner of a beautiful, creamsicle colored Roadeo that I 
>> purchased from a fellow list member here a couple of years ago.  I 
>> purchased only the frameset, and built up it up myself.  A short while ago 
>> I began to notice a creaking, clicking, cracking-type sound when climbing 
>> steep-ish hills.  I loosened and re-tightened just about everything(except 
>> the bottom bracket) in an attempt to fix whatever the source of the sound 
>> might be.  No luck.  While out on a ride yesterday, I noticed that the 
>> sound was apparently getting worse.  I started to fear that there was maybe 
>> a crack somewhere in the frame, and made a plan to remove the crank and 
>> re-install the BB to eliminate it as a possible source(which I ended up not 
>> doing.)  But further into the ride, I happened to discover that the sound 
>> only occurs when I am in one of the 3 largest cogs on the cassette.  I made 
>> about 7 or 8 trips up and down one of the steeper hills on my route, and 
>> was able to confirm that it did not happen in the 4th, or 5th, or any other 
>> cog in back -- just the 3 largest.  
>>
>> For clarification, I am running a Shimano 11sp Ultegra group.  The sound 
>> is NOT regular.  Meaning that it doesn't occur in the same place in either 
>> my wheel's or crank's rotation. It happens both when seated and while I am 
>> out of the saddle. It is more of a cracking, creaking, sound rather than a 
>> clicking sound(although it does sound clicky,) if that makes any sense.  It 
>> sounds like what I'd imagine a a cracked something-or-other to sound like.
>>
>> I suppose I'll remove and reinstall the cassette when I get a chance, but 
>> figured I reach out to you all to see whether anyone has an inkling of what 
>> the trouble might be.  Please let me know your thoughts!
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Comebacks for when people think your bikes cost too much

[Brian Campbell]

Take them to a bike shop. Most people are out of touch relative to the cost 
of a modern bicycle. I have found that most folks seem to equate bicyles 
with childrens toys and as such, interact with them mos;ty in big box store 
toy departments. 



On Monday, June 28, 2021 at 6:39:56 AM UTC-4 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> I typically find that the critics are the same people who eat out 3 times 
> a week & a buy a new car every 2 years. $,3500? You know, same as you lost 
> in depreciation when you drove off the dealer lot last week!
>
> On Monday, June 28, 2021 at 5:16:25 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>
>> I'd likely shrug my shoulders and smile.
>>
>> I put myself in the "other" shoes, so to speak. From that position, fully 
>> aware of the comedic situation I apparently now find myself playing 
>> "both".I "return" to where I never left. 
>>
>> So where's the offense, the call for justice, equality and such ?
>>
>> Nowhere.
>>
>> Now what ? 
>>
>> I shrug my shoulders and laugh, smile . 
>> On Monday, June 28, 2021 at 1:22:41 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> If I have to explain you better be married to me. Otherwise we're not 
>>> discussing the price of my bicycle. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, June 27, 2021 at 10:02:16 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
>>>
 I like the line I heard from my friends who built and rode motorcycles:

 "If I have to explain, you'd never understand."



 On Jun 27, 2021, at 8:12 PM, Kushan  wrote:

 Wife and recently marked the 10th anniversary and decided to get each 
 other nice presents. She is getting me an Appaloosa built and I got her 
 something she really wanted in the jewelry department (of 20-30% higher 
 value than the bike). 

 We are both financially responsible people, don't live lavishly, and 
 can afford both items. However, the reactions of the friends and family 
 who 
 hear about our gifts and their values have been somewhat puzzling for me. 
 While no one has given a second thought to the price of the jewelry, the 
 reactions on the bike have almost universally been that of astonishment. 
 And these are from people who know me well, know I enjoy cycling, and that 
 I only have one bike right now which I am planning to sell when the new 
 one 
 arrives.

 So that got me thinking, I can't be the only one who has experienced 
 this. What are some other similar stories? More importantly, what do you 
 say to a well-meaning loved one when they ask things like "$3500 for a 
 bike?" and "but isn't your current bike orange too?"

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Stem, Shimano Barend Shifters etc.

[Brian Campbell]

Thanks everyone. Remaining items now on ebay.

On Sunday, June 20, 2021 at 9:19:06 PM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:

>
> Howdy!
>
> Selling off some extras. All prices include shipping in the US. Payment 
> via paypal (friends and family or you pay the additional fee) or Venmo. 
> Local pickup is ok as well I am in Berwyn PA.
>
> Cane Creek SCR-5 Brake Levers- 1 Sets gum hoods $45 
> 1 Cane Creek Lever- Black hood and extra hood $20 (Right side lever)
> Shimano 10 Speed Bar end Shifter Set-$65
> Nitto Pearl Stem 90mm extension 26.0 bar diameter $50
> Shimano Ultegra Long Cage Rear Derailleur-$55 (6600) which I think is ten 
> speed compatible
> Tektro Linear Pull  4 finger Brake Levers- New.$15
>
> Links to pictures:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/r8dCTxY7FFnqrfWq7
>

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[RBW] FS: Nitto Stem, Shimano Barend Shifters etc.

[Brian Campbell]

Howdy!

Selling off some extras. All prices include shipping in the US. Payment via 
paypal (friends and family or you pay the additional fee) or Venmo. Local 
pickup is ok as well I am in Berwyn PA.

Cane Creek SCR-5 Brake Levers- 1 Sets gum hoods $45 
1 Cane Creek Lever- Black hood and extra hood $20 (Right side lever)
Shimano 10 Speed Bar end Shifter Set-$65
Nitto Pearl Stem 90mm extension 26.0 bar diameter $50
Shimano Ultegra Long Cage Rear Derailleur-$55 (6600) which I think is ten 
speed compatible
Tektro Linear Pull  4 finger Brake Levers- New.$15

Links to pictures:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/r8dCTxY7FFnqrfWq7

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Re: [RBW] Being Precious About Your Favorite Bike

[Brian Campbell]

I would vote to take it with you. I have a Legolas that I ride regularly 
and travel with attached to the back of my car. Its worth is in the riding, 
not the fetishizing. If it gets stole, you know how to replace it. 

On Sunday, June 13, 2021 at 12:52:37 PM UTC-4 JAS wrote:

> Leah, I can't even imagine your angst if the Platy got stolen!  I'm with 
> Eric...take it on the trip ONLY if you can secure it in your room at 
> night.  Yes, it will be crowded and your family will think you're nuts 
> (about that bike), but they already know that!
>
> If I know I'm going to be traveling through a lot of rain, I remove the 
> seat post, marking it well first so I can get it back to the perfect 
> position.  I stuff a bit of plastic bag in the hole then cover it with the 
> rest of the bag and secure it with a rubber band (wide broccoli type).  
> Storing the saddle/seat post makes for one more thing to fit into the car 
> and in your case 4 things, but you won't have to worry about ruining your 
> leather saddles.
>
> Have a fabulous trip!  Kids "running wild" is the best...all kids need 
> that.  Enjoy your family!
>
> #RivSisters,
> Joyce
>
> On Sunday, June 13, 2021 at 9:18:22 AM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> I think your biggest risk is leaving it on the rack overnight. U locks 
>> are easy to break. Take the bikes into the room, hassle though it may be. 
>> At least then you can admire them!
>>
>> My Bike Friday easily fits into my trunk, so I don't have these kinds of 
>> worries :)
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 2:08 AM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
>> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Every summer I leave for five weeks or so. I drive across the country to 
>>> our home states and spend that time with our families. Our kids get out of 
>>> the desert and get to have lake life and grandma time and run wild. I have 
>>> a Saris Freedom 4 bike rack, and I can/might take my Clem, my Platypus and 
>>> the boys’ Clems. We get a lot of riding done up North, and with temps 110 
>>> in Vegas in the summer, I relish that riding time. Hassle though it is, 
>>> I’ll bring our Rivendells. Four of them. 
>>>
>>> But which ones? 
>>>
>>> I can remember last year as we journeyed out of Yellowstone, we thought 
>>> it would be great to take the Beartooth Highway out of the park. One moment 
>>> we were enjoying views from the top of the world and the next, we were in a 
>>> June snowstorm that barely allowed visibility 20 feet in front of us. I 
>>> worried for my dyno hub, and also that we’d be rear-ended. When we got to 
>>> Billings, those poor bikes suffered through the most torrential downpour I 
>>> can ever remember driving through. My son’s Brooks B17 Select still bears 
>>> the scars (yes, it had a Randi Jo saddle cover). And then there’s the theft 
>>> risk (we u lock them to the rack overnight on our drive), and maybe it’s 
>>> higher in the Bicycle Shortage of 2020 and 2021. Oh, and the risk of being 
>>> knocked over by exuberant little nieces and nephews as we jam our bikes 
>>> into family garages…
>>>
>>> The struggle is this. I don’t want to leave my most favorite bike ever 
>>> behind for 5 weeks. The Clem is just not the same, and though I plan to 
>>> bring it, I would really, REALLY miss my Platy if I ONLY took the Clem. But 
>>> if tragedy should befall me, the raspberry Platy can’t exactly be replaced. 
>>> There’s only one. 
>>>
>>> Should I just take my chances because high risk, high reward? Suck every 
>>> last drop of joy out of it and stop worrying, because after all, it is a 
>>> bike, and it’s meant to be ridden? Or should I protect it, keep it safe 
>>> like Gollum and his Precious? Just ride the Clem and pine for the Platy? I 
>>> have hand-wrung about this for weeks. I decide, IT WILL BE FINE JUST BRING 
>>> IT and then back to JUST THINK OF HOW YOU WILL REGRET IT IF YOUR PLATY GETS 
>>> HURT OR STOLEN. We leave Friday and the pressure is mounting.
>>>
>>> Who has an irreplaceable bike and can relate and would offer an opinion?
>>> Thanks!
>>> Leah
>>>
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Front Derailleur setup problems

[Brian Campbell]

Not sure. That seems like it should work.

On Wednesday, June 9, 2021 at 10:17:46 PM UTC-4 lug...@gmail.com wrote:

> I am having trouble making a triple setup work on my Rivendell Sam 
> Hillborne.
> I am trying to use a Specialized "Flag" triple crankset and a Deore XT FD 
> and Shimano barend shifters (set on friction.) 
>
> I have I think followed the standard FD setup steps.
> - in Small Front/Big Rear set the limit screw to just allow the chain to 
> clear.
> - set the FD cages basically parallel to the chain rings
> - allow a coin's thickness height clearance of the cages over the big ring.
> - while the Specialized "Flag" triple crank is not in Sheldon Brown's 
> database of compatible Cranksets and BB I think I used a 117mm axle BB and 
> the small ring seems to just be clearing the chainstay reasonably.
>
> But I cannot seem to get enough "throw" to both shift into the big 
> chainring AND to drop down into the small ring.
>
> As I wasn't even sure the XL SH would fit or work for me, I was basically 
> just trying to set it up quickly to see if it fit.
> it seems it does.
> But having quickly grabbed a few parts that I thought might work maybe 
> just dipping into my parts bin for parts I think should work has left me 
> again with incompatible components.
> and know my setup problems have nothing to do with the frame but, here's 
> the real quesion - AM I NOT CORRECT  that a Deore XT FD and Shimano (or 
> other) barend shifters are one of the setups of choice of Rivendell riders?
> should these not play together well. should a shimano LH barend shifter  
> have enough range to cover a triple shift.?[image: Hull SH.JPG]
> [image: SH FD side view.JPG]
> [image: SH trip FD alignment.JPG]
> [image: SH RH barend.JPG]
>

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[RBW] Re: An Evolving Shorthand... posting to "daily post ur riv"

[Brian Campbell]

Still trying to figure out how to post a pic from an iphone. I am no longer 
interested in using photo hosting sites as they constantly change user 
agreements and pricing.  Any instuctions anywhere?

On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 10:24:57 PM UTC-4 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

> ahhh... interesting.. Thank you for that. 
>
> Did a little digging and it appears that the max file size for google 
> group attachments is around 8 MB (a few threads describe it as maxing at 
> 6.8 MB). 
>
> So that sounds like maybe a pretty high rez single image might work. 
> Multiple images are probably limited to 5 or so (ha... this is sounding 
> like back in the day with the old cyclofiend site...) 
>
> - J
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 2:39:39 PM UTC-7 Paul Clifton wrote:
>
>> I'm pretty sure Google Groups has limited the size of files that can be 
>> shared, but I'm not sure if it's file size or pixel size.
>>
>> I've had good luck resizing them to "2MP Best for Sharing" using the 
>> built in tool on Windows. It lets me include 3 or 4 decent quality photos 
>> that way, as attachments or inline.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 3:22:28 PM UTC-5 Robert Dowtin wrote:
>>
>>> Jim, I feel like you are speaking to me. Although, I tend to have that 
>>> problem some times...
>>>
>>> Speaking of high quality photos, I seem to be unable to upload anything 
>>> to a post that is of larger file size than something shot with a flip phone 
>>> camera from 2003? Should I be putting photos in a post as an attachment? 
>>> Are there 177 examples of people asking this question and giving each other 
>>> confusing answers as to how best to post photos? Ok, Ok, off to use the 
>>> search function before I try to show more Roswell quality photos of 
>>> bicycles.
>>> ~R
>>>
>>> On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 11:58:31 AM UTC-5 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>>>
 I will say that the quickest way to gain unmoderated status is by 
 posting a great photo to the "daily post ur riv" thread

 If the first (second, or third) post you make is in a WTB/WTT/FS/FT 
 thread, that won't likely nudge you into the free to post gang. 

 I want to thank everyone who has been emphasizing the ride, the bikes 
 and the beauty of being on two wheels in their posts and content. And good 
 answers or great questions, of course. 

 - J / list admin

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleurs / Derailers / Whatever

[Brian Campbell]

Where are the cheap ones?

On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 12:01:43 PM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:

> I had the same question about the front derailleur and the silver low-high 
> 38-24 crank.  It's my first build with a FD.  The gist is to get a road 
> double and mess around until it works?  I have no intention of spending $80 
> if a cheap one will work.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleurs / Derailers / Whatever

[Brian Campbell]

Save yourself the time and aggravation of trying to find the correct rd. 
This one will.

https://www.interlocracing.com/shop/product/60110-ird-front-derailleur-sub-c-braze-on-2351?search=derailleur

Buy the bolt on mount and your done. Its not the cheapest option but it 
works really well. Also for Shimano drive trains the gap between the front 
derailleur and the the large ring should only be a few millimeters. Yes you 
can make other derailleurs  work and it might be fine.

On Thursday, April 1, 2021 at 12:26:47 AM UTC-4 Erik wrote:

> I'm working on putting together my shiny new gold Sam H that I picked up 
> from the Rivendell shop today.  Everything was coming together beautifully, 
> until I went to install the front derailleur. It's a Shimano 105-5700 for a 
> 2x set up.  I'm running a Silver Wide/Low double with a 38 / 24.  The cage 
> on the derailed is too long to set it up with the correct spacing between 
> the large chainring / guard and the cage.  It ends up hitting the chain 
> stay when I shift.  
>
> Does anyone else on here have a similar set up with a wide / low double? 
>  If so, what front derailleur do you use?  For the life of me, I can't 
> figure out a suitable replacement for the 105 and am dreading trying to 
> find one for sale anywhere.
>
> Any thoughts or advice?
>

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[RBW] Re: Regarding Fenders - My Sam w/VO Wavy Fenders

[Brian Campbell]

I have used the Plugnut on my Homer and my Legolas, They work great.

On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:07:29 AM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:

> Veloman,
> Go to velolumino and look under fender widgets, there is an item called a 
> TM Plugnut. It’s the solution to your fender mounting. 
>
> Ray
>
> On Sunday, March 28, 2021 at 11:49:03 AM UTC-7 velomann wrote:
>
>> I had intended my new Sam to be fender-free; maybe inspired by all those 
>> sunny California photos of fender-less Rivs playing in the hills.
>> But I realized when it's wet out - which is often October-May here in 
>> Portland - I'm usually choosing not to ride the Sam t avoid the skunk 
>> stripe up my backside and having to deal with a mucky drivetrain. So I 
>> ordered up a set of Velo Orange aluminum Wavy fenders in 650b x 60mm, 
>> hoping they would fit. They do. 
>> A coupe notes: I did need to dimple the sides of the fenders at the fork 
>> and the chainstays. I use a short piece of 1-inch dowel and just press it 
>> against the fender and it worked easy on these.
>>
>> The front fender comes with hardware for mounting a daruma inside the 
>> steer tube or hanging it from an L-bracket at the fork crown. I've found 
>> L-brackets more likely to crack fenders, and since I already have a Mark's 
>> rack on this, I hung the Daruma from that mounting bolt. I had to hacksaw 
>> about 1/4" off the bolt - it was rubbing on the tire once everything was 
>> snugged up. 
>>
>> What I *wish* is that all Rivs came with a fender boss inside the bottom 
>> of the steer tube. My new Taiwan-made Black Mountain Cycles Road+ has one, 
>> all the (Taiwan-made) Velo Orange bikes have them, so it seems like a 
>> simple add-on to the specs. I've mounted a lot of fenders - aluminum, 
>> plastic, stainless - and It seems to me that one of the problems is having 
>> the nuts on the inside of the fender, where - especially at the fork crown 
>> or under the seatstay bridge - they create a pinch point and a good place 
>> to grab debris, possibly causing a fender failure or even a crash. And it 
>> always seems odd to me when a bike - like Rivs - have a threaded fender 
>> boss at the seatstay bridge but not one under the fork.
>> And if folks don't want to use it they probably wouldn't even know it was 
>> there. Kind of like how many Riv riders don't use the kickstand plate.
>> [image: File_000 (3).jpeg][image: File_000.jpeg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: 7 Speed to 9 Speed Conversion Question

[Brian Campbell]

Thanks all!

On Sunday, December 13, 2020 at 9:42:53 PM UTC-5 Mark Roland wrote:

> Brian--a 10-speed cassette with one cog removed will turn your 7sp into an 
> indexing 9sp.
>
> On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 9:57:40 AM UTC-5 Brian Campbell wrote:
>
>> Hi. 
>>
>> I am helping a friend with a Kestrel 200 sc that is currently set up with 
>> 7-speed down tube shifters. It is a 7 speed Hyperglide cassette on a 105 
>> level Shimano 105, FH-1055 rear hub and the rear spacing is 130mm.
>>
>> He wants to covert it to bar end shifters and provided me with a set of 9 
>> speed, indexed Microshift bar end shifters.
>>
>> I am wondering if it is possible to to simply swap in a 9 speed cassette?
>>
>> Also, for anyone who might know, the rear derailleur in a 105, RD-1055 
>> what is the max cog size for that the RD can handle? 26 or 28?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: 7 Speed to 9 Speed Conversion Question

[Brian Campbell]

Bill,

Thanks. 

On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 10:37:45 AM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Brian
>
> As with many things, how things go will depend on the details
>
> You say that the bike is running 7sp hyperglide right now.  That would 
> suggest a 126mm rear hub.  You claim the rear hub is a FH-1055, which is a 
> 126mm stock rear hub.  But then you go on to claim that the rear hub is 
> 130mm spacing.  
>
> So, is it a FH1055 that somebody swapped the axle to 130mm later?
> Is it a FH-1055 that somebody later swapped the axle and the freehub body 
> to make it 8/9/10 speed compatible, but continued to run a 7sp cassette 
> with a spacer, just for kicks?
> Or is it actually a 126mm rear hub?
>
> If it really is a 7sp cassette running on there, with no spacer, then a 
> 9sp cassette just wont fit on that hub.  I think that's your first step.  
> Remove the existing cassette and look at what you actually have.  Take a 
> picture and share it if you need advice.  If your rear hub doesn't have the 
> right freehub body to take your 9-speed cassette then you may be stuck.  
> Sheldon Brown has the unambiguous photos of the different cassette bodies.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 6:57:40 AM UTC-8 Brian Campbell wrote:
>
>> Hi. 
>>
>> I am helping a friend with a Kestrel 200 sc that is currently set up with 
>> 7-speed down tube shifters. It is a 7 speed Hyperglide cassette on a 105 
>> level Shimano 105, FH-1055 rear hub and the rear spacing is 130mm.
>>
>> He wants to covert it to bar end shifters and provided me with a set of 9 
>> speed, indexed Microshift bar end shifters.
>>
>> I am wondering if it is possible to to simply swap in a 9 speed cassette?
>>
>> Also, for anyone who might know, the rear derailleur in a 105, RD-1055 
>> what is the max cog size for that the RD can handle? 26 or 28?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: 7 Speed to 9 Speed Conversion Question

[Brian Campbell]

Thanks for the info! I just realized I posted this in the wrong forum. My 
apologies

On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 10:15:22 AM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:

> Max cog size is listed as 28.
> https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-T-6B-000-00-ENG.pdf
>
>
> On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 9:57:40 AM UTC-5 Brian Campbell wrote:
>
>> Hi. 
>>
>> I am helping a friend with a Kestrel 200 sc that is currently set up with 
>> 7-speed down tube shifters. It is a 7 speed Hyperglide cassette on a 105 
>> level Shimano 105, FH-1055 rear hub and the rear spacing is 130mm.
>>
>> He wants to covert it to bar end shifters and provided me with a set of 9 
>> speed, indexed Microshift bar end shifters.
>>
>> I am wondering if it is possible to to simply swap in a 9 speed cassette?
>>
>> Also, for anyone who might know, the rear derailleur in a 105, RD-1055 
>> what is the max cog size for that the RD can handle? 26 or 28?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>>

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[RBW] 7 Speed to 9 Speed Conversion Question

[Brian Campbell]

Hi. 

I am helping a friend with a Kestrel 200 sc that is currently set up with 
7-speed down tube shifters. It is a 7 speed Hyperglide cassette on a 105 
level Shimano 105, FH-1055 rear hub and the rear spacing is 130mm.

He wants to covert it to bar end shifters and provided me with a set of 9 
speed, indexed Microshift bar end shifters.

I am wondering if it is possible to to simply swap in a 9 speed cassette?

Also, for anyone who might know, the rear derailleur in a 105, RD-1055 what 
is the max cog size for that the RD can handle? 26 or 28?

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Has anyone tried the new Tosco bar?

[Brian Campbell]

Thanks Garth. Now if you could show me how to post from my iphone...

On Wednesday, December 2, 2020 at 4:34:33 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

> Okay, I changed the format to .jpg and that worked to post both as an "add 
> attachment" and "insert photo attachment". So if anyone has issues with 
> posting photos , open the image, "save as" and change the file format to 
> .jpg. I'm posting this with Chrome(book) OS and browser at the moment. 
>
> On Wednesday, December 2, 2020 at 4:30:33 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>
>> Testing testing  [image: Tosco.jpg]
>> On Wednesday, December 2, 2020 at 4:28:02 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Riv has a schematic of the Tosco with it's images. This #%&*^! format 
>>> wouldn't post the .png image of the bars, then the page malfunctioned and I 
>>> had to reload the page, rendering my entire reply lost in cyberspace.  The 
>>> gist of which is  everything is alright. no matter what.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1403/7343/products/ScreenShot2020-11-24at11.51.45AM_1600x.png
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Leah’s Rivendell Raspberry Platypus

[Brian Campbell]

Bikes, at the level they are considered and discussed in this group, are as 
much a means of self-expression as conveyance and utility.  It is the 
marriage of these things that makes it fun and its value is dependent upon 
the person. 

I like the fact that people go in so many different directions with their 
builds. I feel that I am participating vicariously and continually learning 
about things that I was often times unaware of previously.

I say "Bring on the anno!" in whatever form you like. Who cares if it is a 
temporary thing? All of these choices make me aware and for that, I am 
grateful.

Says the person who just installed purple cloth tape on his green 
Legolas...keep it weird, people!



On Wednesday, December 2, 2020 at 11:44:30 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Not only does anodizing fade or wear (nothing looks more bedraggled than 
> anodized braking surfaces after a year of use), but after a year or so 
> you'll have to put the anodized bits in storage until the colors become 
> fashionable again. I should have saved my bright purple anodized Sun M14A 
> rims from 1992, not to mention my blue Grafton pedals!
>
> OTOH, for Leah's particular build, I think rose colored rims would be very 
> nice, as long as the braking tracks were silver.
>
> On Wed, Dec 2, 2020 at 9:28 AM Dave S  wrote:
>
>> Last year I spoke with some of the folks at the Paul booth @ Philly Bike 
>> Expo about some pink ano bits for my lilac BMC Road+ and they talked me out 
>> of it.  They said that pink ano fades really quickly in comparison to other 
>> colors.  I've heard the same about turquoise.  So much for my Miami Vice 
>> themed build ;)
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB Nitto Big Back Rack - LARGE

[Brian Campbell]

I have used one of these bags on my AHH for years. It will allow you to 
carry what you need for a long day ride and a couple of straps on the 
outside through the D-rings allow for bulky clothing to be attached. 

https://www.acornbags.com/collections/rear-bags/products/medium-saddlebag?variant=1113866272

You would easily be saving yourself a couple of pounds by not having the 
large rack. 

On Tuesday, December 1, 2020 at 7:25:36 AM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:

> Leah,
> Have you considered a saddlebag with a quick release?
> Nitto makes a very nice one and the part that stays attached to your 
> saddle doesn’t weigh much.
>
> Ray
>
> On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 5:14:55 PM UTC-8 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
> wrote:
>
>> Bagboy up front is great, I have Rosco A set up like that with lowriders 
>> when I need to haul stuff. Rosco B has as light of a fully integrated 
>> basket/rack as I've yet to make. Probably do a basket on Rosco A soon 
>> (exposing it's lovely headbadge like sibling B's)
>> Ditching all rear weight is nice when you want to hammer out of the 
>> pedals on a slim waisted mixte frame, not that that's something to aspire 
>> to, but I've got a seemingly rational fear of creating flex in and around 
>> my bottom brackets, and I'm fortunate that the Rosco Bigs have a burly fork 
>> (75 lbs in lowriders over the bridge? Totally!!) 
>> Made this rear rack for my light awhile back-
>> [image: IMG-1096.jpg]
>> this way I'm not tempted to load it up :)
>> -Kai
>>
>> On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 4:27:01 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> It would be a smaller bag in this scenario and no, they don't interfere 
>>> with v-brakes. 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 1:23:39 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 One more possible problem with a large saddlebag and no rack: the bag 
 when full can press against the rear brake cable and prevent strong 
 braking. I think Leah has V brakes instead of cantilevers, and perhaps V 
 brakes aren't so affected -- I've not used Vs for a decade -- but the 
 medium Saddlesack, temporarily substituting for rack and panniers on the 
 new Matthews road bike, really does interfere with the action of the rear 
 cantilever. Fortunately, I have one of those Nitto wire standoff things.

 I think Rivendell-design saddlebags do this worse than Carradice-design 
 saddlebags.

 Thigh rub doesn't bother me -- I find it comforting -- but it is a real 
 thing.

 On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 2:15 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Of course it's sold out! 臘
>
> Another issue with rackless is I don't think you've ever ridden a 
> saddlebag that way, the rubbing on the back of the legs bothers some 
> people 
> (I'm one of those people). Your results may vary and whatnot. 
>
> On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 12:57:14 PM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding 
> Ding! wrote:
>
>> Joe, I agree. Amd they’re sold out at Rivendell!!! 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 30, 2020, at 12:49 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> I'm #TeamLightness, too, and I like the idea of a rackless 
>> saddlebag. If it's not too big empty and clears the fender, you can load 
>> it 
>> up and have it rest on said fender without pushing down too hard on it. 
>> A 
>> grid-gray Bag Boy to match your Banana Bag should work. 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 11:32:11 AM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>> Ding! wrote:
>>
>>> Kai, you may be right. I’m hesitant to add weight to the bike, I’ve 
>>> enjoyed its lightness so much. I am slightly bothered about the 
>>> limitations 
>>> of going rack-less. Yesterday I was on my Clementine and wanted to shed 
>>> my 
>>> down vest. Where to put that on the Platypus?! Maybe a small Saddlesack 
>>> will work without needing a rack...
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On Nov 30, 2020, at 11:17 AM, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY <
>>> kaivi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> The correct answer is:
>>> "C) Ditch the rear rack entirely" 
>>> Especially with a step throughish bike (when you're standing and 
>>> giving it your all up whatever hill of death you may come across), but 
>>> doubley especially considering your kids can carry their own stack of 
>>> textbooks now.
>>> -Kai
>>>
>>> On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 1:14:25 AM UTC-5 masmojo wrote:
>>>
 Leah, A couple/few suggestions here:
>
 A) There are plenty of lights that fit that little tab on the rack. 
 (Unfortunately that would make the existing light obsolete) You could 
 still 
 use the same cable routing as now, just extend it up through the 
 fender to 
 the rack mounting point.
 B) Take a hack saw and saw the light tab off the rack. cover up 
 scar with some 

[RBW] Re: Homeschool Project: Build a Clem L

[Brian Campbell]

Paul,

Great story and a wonderful project. I am in the midst of the same thing 
with my 14 year old daughter.  We went the route of the "vintage mixte" 
refurb. My daughter has been riding quite a bit since the onset of the 
pandemic and no in-person school. She too has "shot up " and is now a bit 
over 5'8", so it was time for a new bike.

We ended up with an old Centurion Mixte that she went with me to inspect 
when we purchased it. She has picked all of the parts and I help by 
ordering what we need and we pick through the parts I have, to see what 
works. Then she with my help, she took it completely apart, de-greased and 
waxed the frame while we are awaiting parts.

She has a very developed opinion on the form and function (black 
frame/silver hammered fenders/ brown saddle and grips/ 6 speed friction 
thumb shifters/ 38-30 chainrings with a chainguard/bottle dynamo and LED 
lights) and I am there to provide the technical bits.

She is really excited and looks for the mail everyday, as we accumulate 
what we need to finish the project.

Its a lot of fun spending time with her and really interesting to see how 
adept she is a problem-solving. 

Glad you had such a great experience. Just wanted to share mine as well. 
Humble daughter brag now over ;-)

On Tuesday, December 1, 2020 at 8:47:04 AM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I can’t express enough how delighted I was reading this story over my 
> coffee this morning. 
>
> What a perfect 2020 homeschooling project, and one for the family memory 
> book, at that. She built a Rivendell in the bike boom during the pandemic 
> of 2020, sounds like a good writing project for ELA, to boot! 
>
> This 12 year old child knows more than I do about bike mechanics, so I am 
> blown away. What a bright child. And I’m sure she got to spend loads of 
> time alongside her dad as she learned, another bonus. Your friend is wrong 
> in his estimation of this bike...
>
> It is not expensive; it is priceless. 
>
> There is another List member who gave a blue 52 Clem L to his daughter for 
> her 11th birthday just recently. The great thing about the Clems is that 
> you can grow into them. At 12, if your daughter can fit a 52 you’re golden; 
> unless she is taller than 5’ 10” in a few years, this is her size. 
> Permanently. Another reason to sing the praises of the Clementine, as if we 
> needed one more. But anyway, my kids are both on Clems, so you’ll get no 
> criticism from ME. The boys each have a Clem H, and I hope riding good, 
> comfortable, capable bikes fosters a love for cycling that will stay with 
> them as adults. There is one List member who gave her teen girl an 
> ATLANTIS, and Analog decked it out with the teenager’s favorite Lord of the 
> Rings quotes - typed it on bar tape with a typewriter!
>
> What is your wife’s Clem like? Does she have the same color? Different? 
> And as Clems are rare as hen’s teeth these days, where did you find one for 
> your daughter? 
>
> Thanks so much for sharing this story. It’s wonderful!
> Leah 
>
>
>
> On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 11:11:53 PM UTC-8 Paul in Vermont wrote:
>
>> Hello RBW Friends.
>>
>> My 12 year old daughter shot up this year, and it was time for a new 
>> bicycle!
>>
>> We've homeschooled her since Kindergarten. One of the great advantages is 
>> that the kids drive the curriculum (with our guidance) so when we do stuff, 
>> it's stuff they tend to be REALLY interested in. So when she asked to build 
>> her own bike with me as the tutor I was all in.
>>
>> We toyed with the idea of finding and rebuilding a vintage mixte, but 
>> turns out used awesome step-through frames are hard to come by.  We 
>> eventually settled on a 53 Clem L like her mother rides.
>>
>> Images attached, including notes, drawings of tools, and instant photos 
>> of progress. She's fitted every screw with her own hands, and even sweated 
>> putting on the Big Bens by herself. 
>>
>> It may not look like it, but lots of the parts are from the parts bin — 
>> they don't look it because she scrubbed everything before we started, even 
>> made an old 10-speed cassette and shifter shine with degreaser. All that's 
>> left is chain, derailleur, rack, and fenders. 
>>
>> Plus, she'll maintain it herself (and I won't have to! Woo!). 
>>
>> One of my friends made a side comment about setting up a kid with such a 
>> nice (read: not cheap) bike. I totally disagree. It's my experience that a 
>> good bike with solid components is a killer investment, especially for a 
>> teenager. She'll ride it twice as much as a cheap clunker, and this one 
>> will last all the way to adulthood and beyond. Plus if she ever wants a 
>> different ride, a used Riv sells on this forum for a good percentage of 
>> what it cost us to put together!
>>
>> Besides learning actual skills and getting to spend time together working 
>> with our hands, almost the most important lesson is respect for good 
>> things, rather than just buying more 

Re: [RBW] Leah’s Rivendell Raspberry Platypus

[Brian Campbell]

That. Is. A . Beautiful. Bicycle. 

On Saturday, November 28, 2020 at 9:28:26 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I have low photo standards; as long as the file is big and the photo was 
> taken in bright sunlight, it's probably better than mine. Wait until you've 
> got the bike set up properly, then post some big daytime files.
>
> Ditto ride impressions: let's have your 100 mile and 500 mile reports. The 
> contrast with the Clem is interesting. One day, weigh both and let us know 
> the difference. (FWIW, my bikes weight, ascending: 18, 26 (28 with *aluminum 
> shell* AM hub!!), 29.5, and 31, but last 3 with bags and kit small or 
> large, first without saddle wedge.)
>
> Rack: Tubus makes these; I don't know if they will solve your problem, but 
> perhaps they might work until you find a rack that fits properly.
>
> https://www.campfirecycling.com/product/tubus-extension-adapter-p-1030.html
>
> BTW, Campfire had stock and was prompt for questions and shipping when I 
> dealt with them a few months ago.
>
> Patrick "must trick out my Monocog to make it competitively pretty" Moore
>
> On Sat, Nov 28, 2020 at 2:21 PM Leah Peterson  wrote:
>
>> ...
>>
> Patrick wants more details about the ride and high res photos. To which I 
>> say: Oh bother. I don’t know how to do high-res photos, and I’ve only got 
>> like 23 miles on the bike, so my impressions aren’t worth much yet. The 
>> bike is just easy. This may be because I’ve built the quads (a gift from 
>> the long, heavy Clementine) to handle these massive hills for 3,000 miles. 
>> In comparison, the Platypus is no work, it’s almost too easy. But, maybe 
>> that changes when I add the rear rack and the Randi Jo Bartender bag. 
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FOR SALE: NITTO S83, Continental Tires, Carradice Bag

[Brian Campbell]

Hi. I would like the saddle bag.

On Tuesday, November 24, 2020 at 7:15:16 PM UTC-5 RDS wrote:

> See pics at link 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fa0woQ5CT1ZrVdPOsqz0iJ7KvAlYtxj8?usp=sharing
>
> On Tuesday, November 24, 2020 at 7:14:20 PM UTC-5 RDS wrote:
>
>> For sale .. ships from Georgia zip 30040:
>>
>> *Nitto S83 Seatpost* .. 26.8 and I think is the shorter one at 250mm .. 
>> This is the seat post that came  new w/ my Gus and I have not used it, so 
>> it is new to my knowledge.  Riv sells them for $118, I'll ask $100 + 
>> shipping.
>>
>> *Continental Contact Tires* 700 x 32, lots of tread left, in good 
>> condition, wire bead, reflective strip.  $15 + shipping
>>
>> *Carradice Bag* -- I believe they refer to this bag as the "*Lightweight 
>> Audax Saddlebag Black*".  See link for details.  
>> https://www.carradice.co.uk/bags/saddlebags/lightweight-audax-saddlebag-black-cordura
>> I'll ask $25 + shipping.
>>
>> Contact off list.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Revelate, SKF, XTR, Nitto, Velo Orange, more!

[Brian Campbell]

I would like the Shimano Thumb shifters if still available. Can't seem to 
contact you off list on my iphone.

On Sunday, November 22, 2020 at 6:31:41 PM UTC-5 esoter...@gmail.com wrote:

>
> The Velo Orange and the Blackburn racks are sold. 
>
> On Nov 22, 2020, at 14:40, esoterica etc  wrote:
>
> 
>
>
> Greetings all,
>
> Like many this time of year, I find myself going through my parts stash 
> and discovering things that aren't being used and probably won't be in the 
> foreseeable future. So here's a random assortment of parts that I'd like to 
> offer up to the group. *Prices listed include shipping anywhere in the US*. 
> All items are gently used and in good or better condition unless otherwise 
> noted. Thanks for looking and have a great Thanksgiving week!
>
> link to pictures: 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-KZRFfctZScgJb2YrECDBK4v5cEeORUB
>
>
> 1. *Shimano XT FD-M780 Front Derailleur for 3x drivetrains**  $20* (new 
> in box)
>
> 2. *Revelate Gas Tank bag*  *$40*
>
> 3. *North St. Pioneer 9 Handlebar/Waist bag*  *$45* (includes waist belt)
>
> 4. *Shimano XTR front hub w/ matching XTR skewer, 32 hole HB-900*   *$45*
>
> 5. *DMR Bikes Single Speed Chain Tensioner*  *$15*
>
> 6. *Surly Singleator*  *$35*
>
> 7. *Shimano XT M730 6-speed Indexing Thumb Shifters*  *$40*
>
> 8. *Velo Orange Decaleur Fork Receiver for 1 1/8" stems*  *$10*
>
> 9. *The Original Italian Road Bike Mirror*  
> *$30 *
>
> 10. *SKF bottom bracket - JIS square taper 113mm length for 70mm shell*  
> *$100* (this was only installed to test fit but never ridden)
>
> 11. *Nitto RM013 handlebars - 26.0 clamp, 46mm center-to-center at ends*  
> *$50*
>
> 12. *Velo Orange Pass Hunter/Randonneur front rack*  *$40*
>
> 13. *Jim Blackburn vintage Lowrider front rack*  *$30* (includes U-clamps 
> for mounting on fork legs without mid braze-ons)
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ideas needed for offseting front rack from exposed cable

[Brian Campbell]

Roberta,

What front bag is being used?


On Wednesday, November 18, 2020 at 3:44:24 PM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:

> Does anyone have  suggestions for something to "offset" a front handlebar 
> bag from rubbing on the front exposed cable?  
>
> With John H's help, we found this 
> https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-f16-front-handlebar-hook-bag-supporter-bag-part-nitto--870-288-10/p
>  
> , but it's a bit pricey.  The support "shelf" is nice but not required.
>
> I'm not interested in a permanently fixed item. as I'd move it from Riv to 
> Riv.  Other than the price, I like this item.
>
> Thanks,
> Roberta
>

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[RBW] Re: "Cross-training" for cycling: walking? Also: Inexpensive but large and practical backpack?

[Brian Campbell]

This post is much like your post about needing to eat so you don't bonk 
while riding but that you don't like to eat before you ride...

FWIW, I cracked 3 vertebrae while sledding with my kids in 2008. Back pain 
entered my life afterward and like you, I didn't "like"  to exercise. I 
rode my bike and walked and tried all manner of "bike fitting" to alleviate 
the back pain that has become associated with riding.

After years of dealing with intermittent "spasms"  and seemingly random 
events that triggered excruciating back pain, I read about strengthening my 
core and decided to direct some focus in that direction.

My take away is that the core strengthening worked/works for me. Instances 
of back pain are pretty much a thing of the past and if I do get a twinge 
it is not long lasting. It has also improved my riding in that I don't have 
to rely on my hands as the sole means of support for my upper body.

Pick 2 or three things that you can rotate so as to not get too bored and 
if something doesn't work for you, be open minded enough to try something 
else.

If you need motivation just think of exercise as a "tax" to be paid on your 
relatively cushy lifestyle vs. the many billions of others on the planet 
who do not have the luxury of choosing "exercise" or not. If they don't 
exert themselves, they will not be around very long.



On Monday, November 16, 2020 at 12:56:12 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I should be doing more of other sorts of exercise besides cycling anyway, 
> but what brings this to mind is that my lower back -- center, just above 
> hips -- has been moderately painful off and on for the last 7-10 days; I 
> think that the cause or occasion was insufficient muscle tone while 
> spending too much time all at once bent over working on the Monocog and 
> other things; this exacerbated by bending over too forcefully a couple of 
> times afterward to reach things on the ground (dog shit, if you must know). 
> It's not more than mild, and for a long time I've been stiff down there 
> after sitting (I do try to sit straight) or bending, and it has been worse 
> in the past; generally my back is fine, thank God; but I'd like to nip it 
> in the bud.
>
> Besides cycling, I do pushups, but that aside, I despise "exercise." I've 
> heard, read, and felt when I do it that simple walking is a good all-over 
> exercise and that, in particular, it strengthens your core -- of course, it 
> will do this only moderately but moderately is all I want.
>
> Can anyone comment on walking for general health and, in particular, to 
> keep your core in basic tone? I have noticed that, when I walk more, my 
> trunk and legs feel less "tight."
>
> Once again, I am not likely to do stretching or any methodical program of 
> exercise, so advice in regimens is likely wasted effort. (That's why God 
> invented bikes, fer heaven's sake!! To make "exercise" -- and "saving the 
> planet" -- fun.)
>
> If anyone has general useful information on lower back pain, I'll be 
> grateful to hear it.
>
> Next question: Can anyone recommend an inexpensive large backpack for 
> grocery runs? It should hold, and hold with reasonable comfort to the 
> wearer, at least a full paper grocery sack's worth of groceries, including 
> the weight of cans and bottles. Longest distance loaded will be 1 mile -- I 
> have 1 grocery store 1/4 mile away, another 7/10 mile away, even though I 
> live in a bosque enclave. 
>
> I just walked to and from the further one -- Sprout's -- and carried home 
> 36 lb of groceries, 29 lb in a very large Timbuktu courier bag; not the 
> best method. Carrying 36 lb of groceries on a bike is a lot easier! But the 
> wheels of my grocery bike are waiting at the bike shop for the rim tape 
> needed to make the Naches Pass tires tubeless.
>
> Patrick "18.53 minutes per mile outbound empty, 23.04 minutes per mile 
> return under load" Moore
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Running a Mark's rack/basket....AND a handlebar bag?!?!?!

[Brian Campbell]

Why have the bag there at all? 

On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 8:47:01 PM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Yeah...for the little I'm carrying in the basket, I'm probably being 
> overly cautious insisting on trying to find a permanent place for the 
> strap. 
> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 6:38:07 PM UTC-6 spencer robinson wrote:
>
>> I have a rack, basket and handlebar bag on my Sam. I do not have a strap 
>> on my basket, I do check all the mounting nuts and bolts when I clean and 
>> lube. I always have an Irish or full spectrum strap in the stuff I carry, 
>> then if I find a cool thing or 2 at a yard sale or carry home a 12 pack, I 
>> run the strap over the bag, from the stem, over the bars and to the front 
>> of the rack. Many times the heaviest thing I have in the basket is the 
>> coffee kit and a sweater.
>>
>> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 3:22:24 PM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Actually...even better, you mentioned the attachment doesn't need to do 
>>> anything until it's needed...would there be any issue using the irish strap 
>>> to handlebars connection but keeping it loose enough that it just goes 
>>> behind the bag? That might be my best move. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 2:20:33 PM UTC-6 Ben Mihovk wrote:
>>>
 Holy smokes I didn't even think about steering! I've just been 
 tinkering in the basement and haven't hopped on the bike to try any of 
 these configurations.

 So just to be clear, you think if I do something loosely connecting 
 head tube to tombstone, it'd work okay as a failsafe? 

 I appreciate it!
 Ben

 On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 1:59:08 PM UTC-6 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
 wrote:

> No, not ok. that's going to have ill, very ill, or maybe very very 
> very ill affects on your steering when it's even remotely snug (it could 
> tighten up at will). You're looking for a failsafe, not something to 
> actually do anything until it's needed. You might try a fairly loose loop 
> of paracord or heavy shoelace, just long enough to not catch or bind, but 
> not too long or it'll get into your brakes and wheel. Tying off to the 
> handlebar is straightforward because it moves with the rack, headtubes 
> don't so keep it loose[ish]. And to keep it up and out of the moving 
> bits, 
> consider tying off to the horizontal top bar of your basket directly in 
> front of the tombstone, that way it won't want to get fussy with your 
> headset.
> Have fun!
> -Kai
>
> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 11:54:22 AM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Here's a photo of what I'm thinking about doing with the strap and 
>> head tube...
>> [image: irish.jpg]
>> The strap is looped through each side of the tombstone twice...once 
>> through and around the head tube on the opposite side, and then once 
>> though 
>> the inside of the tombstone and back on the same side of the head tube 
>> (if 
>> that makes sense).
>>
>> It's snug...but my two concerns are...
>> 1. it won't stop the rack/basket from crashing into the front wheel 
>> if the rack fails (I'm not a physics person...but I'm guessing there's 
>> more 
>> holding power vertically than horizontally)
>> 2. The strap is going to dull up or rub off the paint on the head 
>> tube.
>>
>> HOWEVER...as I was typing this, I found this...
>>
>> https://13507435628737481763.googlegroups.com/attach/26c66c05ba4e4/IMG_1683.JPG?part=0.2=1=ANaJVrEq-9QnruTkMcmxuNN9WRRDupm4Sh5lxv-I6NA_WVq9zMoW7YG8PJm6dkg0zmWGvc0jPMXrF4yVRs-NP2B3aA4xDxxQ3P78klLrAgHSI79Llf-AOr8
>>
>> It looks like lashing the tombstone to the head tube has been an 
>> option for at least Soma and their "Manny Strap". I'm guessing I'm okay 
>> with it the way I have it.
>>
>> Right? 
>> On Saturday, November 7, 2020 at 10:19:16 AM UTC-6 Ben Mihovk wrote:
>>
>>> Hey all!
>>> I recently set up my Atlantis with a Mark's rack and medium Walk 
>>> zip-tied to it. I double strutted the rack and have the Irish strap 
>>> connecting the tombstone to the bars (Chocos). 
>>>
>>> I have an x-small saddle sack that I love and was offered a matching 
>>> one at a great price. I love the way the x-small sack looks/fits on my 
>>> handlebars, but I'm having some serious issues figuring out how to 
>>> strap 
>>> the tombstone for support while having a handlebar bag.
>>>
>>> One solution I might have is to strap the tombstone to the headtube 
>>> horizontally. I did it a minute ago and looped the Irish strap a bunch 
>>> of 
>>> times and tightened it up. Is this good enough for supporting the rack 
>>> if 
>>> the tange fails? Will the strap on the frame rub off the paint or 
>>> top/clear 
>>> coat? 
>>>
>>> Any ideas on how to have both a Mark's rack and 

[RBW] Re: cold weather winter riding tips

[Brian Campbell]

Fenders, lights, removable layers of clothing and a place to hold them on 
the bike. I am in SE PA

On Wednesday, November 11, 2020 at 8:56:19 AM UTC-5 br...@onenaturellc.com 
wrote:

> I'm curious to know what old time riders used to do to ride in sub 40 
> degree f weather. I figure my fellow riv superfans here might have some 
> experiences to share. I'm writing from 12508 zip code. We often get a 
> precious few sunny hours mid-day when the temps slip into mid-thirties in 
> the winter and the heavily salted country roads are for the most part ice 
> free. For the record, I already tried this "zwift" thing and it isn't for 
> me ha ha.
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar bags

[Brian Campbell]

This bag from Velo Orange might work if you hang it on the front. These are 
made for VO by Roadrunner. I have one on my AHH and really like. My AHH has 
drop bars so this might not work.

https://velo-orange.com/collections/bags/products/mini-rando-handlebar-bag?variant=33683680428169

On Friday, October 30, 2020 at 8:48:01 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I like Road Runner Bags out of Los Angeles. I just ordered a Buritto 
> Supreme bar bag and whatever their seat wedge is called in gray as a 
> light-load no-racks/fenders setup on my Riv Custom. They hold all the basic 
> essentials and my phone is on a Quad Lock on the bars. Ya know who hates 
> digging around for his phone in a bag when someone texts him? This guy! 
> ‍♂️
>
> https://roadrunnerbags.us/
>
> On Friday, October 30, 2020 at 9:58:11 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> While I wait for the wheelset of my Platypus, I’ve been thinking about 
>> how I want to set up my bars (sorry, I just cannot call it a ‘cockpit’). 
>> I’ve got 52 Boscos in aluminum to look forward to, and I want to keep my 
>> bike as svelte and light as I can. I did the unthinkable and paid for a 
>> Spurcycle bell just now ($49 for a bell?!) and now I need bags in keeping 
>> with the look. I’ve never ventured past Rivendell and Randi Jo for bags, so 
>> I’m unaware of what great offerings the market offers.
>>
>> As far as function goes, I’ve got that figured out. Attached are our pair 
>> of mom and kid Clems, which we have set up similarly with a Randi Jo bag 
>> for our Hydroflasks and a XS Saddlesack facing the rider for 
>> iPhones/keys/essentials. I like both of these bags, but neither holds all 
>> my items. I’d like to have only one bag so my bars aren’t so cluttered. I 
>> do know that Riv is re-doing some of their Sackville line, so I’ve emailed 
>> to ask about those details. I’d prefer to give Rivendell my money, but 
>> we’ll see what those new bags are like.
>>
>> Do you have any recommendations?
>> -light
>> -streamlined, unobtrusive
>> -zippers preferred
>> -no garish colors (frame is already a saturated color - raspberry 
>> metallic)
>> -hold a 32 oz flask AND an phone/keys/granola bar
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Leah
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Paul Touring Cantilever Brakes

[Brian Campbell]

Brakes acquired. Thanks!


On Monday, October 12, 2020 at 10:24:23 AM UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:

> Howdy all. 
>
> Wondering if anyone might have two wheels-worth of Paul Touring brakes in 
> Silver they are looking to re-home?
>
> Please let me know and thanks!
>
> Brian
> Berwyn, PA
>

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[RBW] Re: Fender clearance

[Brian Campbell]

Not an expert but it looks good to me. Seems you are right at what I would 
consider minimal clearance.

On Thursday, October 15, 2020 at 10:16:52 AM UTC-4 Sam Perez wrote:

> I have a steel frame that was designed around a 650x42 tire, I wanted to 
> go a little wider fir more buoyancy.so I tried a pari moto 48. Is this 
> enough clearance?  the tight spot is in the crimped fender /chain stay 
> area. What's good clearance? What's minimal clearance ? 
>

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Re: [RBW] FS Rivendell Sackville Tool Roll

[Brian Campbell]

Rats! If anyone else has one for sale, please feel free to let me know!

On Wednesday, October 14, 2020 at 12:03:05 PM UTC-4 nus...@gmail.com wrote:

> Sold!
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 14, 2020 at 9:53:55 AM UTC-6, Nikko in Oakland wrote:
>
>> I’ll take it! PM coming. 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 14, 2020, at 8:32 AM, Andrew Nussbaum  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Lightly used condition. $35 shipped CONUS. 
>>
>> Andrew in Denver
>>
>> [image: 1]
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] WTB: Paul Touring Cantilever Brakes

[Brian Campbell]

Howdy all. 

Wondering if anyone might have two wheels-worth of Paul Touring brakes in 
Silver they are looking to re-home?

Please let me know and thanks!

Brian
Berwyn, PA

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[RBW] Re: Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

[Brian Campbell]

Very nice!

On Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 8:59:10 PM UTC-4 Paul Brodek wrote:

> Took a little while, but I finally landed Ray Foss' '98 Custom Starck-Riv 
> Road frameset. Ray got it from the original owner, but with many other 
> awesome mounts to choose from, Ray never managed to build it up. Doesn't 
> look like Art M., the original owner, rode it much before selling it to 
> Ray. I did manage to build it up, but haven't managed to ride it yet. Maybe 
> tomorrow?
>
> It's only my second Riv, the first was an even earlier '95 Waterford-Riv 
> Road. Bought that one from Peter B. maybe 7-8yrs ago, sold it last 
> year-ish. If I do the math, gaining 3yrs every Riv buy over an 8yr stretch, 
> in about 64yrs I'll have myself a '21! I'm catching up!
>
> I mulled over the build while reeling it in, decided on this first 
> go-round to do a period-correct-ish Riv quasi-tribute, all silver 
> components, nothing insanely current. The frame came with Silver dt 
> shifters, so they had to stay. Very few silver-rimmed wheelsets under my 
> roof, at least ones that are modern-enough to have a 130mm rear OLN. All I 
> had was a clean set of Ultegra tri-color hubs on Mavic Reflex SUP. 'Sup? 
> Then I found a decent amount of Dura-Ace 7x00-series silver stuff, so 
> rder/brakes/cranks/stem are D-A. The top tube is a little on the long side 
> for me, 60.5cm, so the D-A stem is only 90mm. Tried a D-A post, but there's 
> not a lot of post showing, and the bottom of the flutes on the D-A post sat 
> below the lugline, providing a possible water incursion route, so a 
> cut-short Thomson Elite works for now. Been saving the green Brooks B-17 
> Champion standard for something, turns out it was this.
>
> I wanted non-aero brake cable routing, but I'm no longer thrilled with 
> those smaller vintage lever bodies. Then I remembered a pair of Campy 
> C-Record dual-routing levers weresomewhere...and they turned up. 
> Pairing them with the D-A 7800 dual-pivots is a little weird, I'm wishing 
> the caliper spring tension was higher, but it oughta work OK.
>
> It's geared for now with a 38/24 compact double, using a Peter 
> White-sourced TA Zephyr K tripelizer ring, mounted on the inside position. 
> 11-28t 8spd cassette in the rear, so I still get a decent low gear and can 
> use the med-cage D-A rder. The Shimano CX-70 fder sits a little high over 
> the outer ring, can't get it any lower without scraping the top of the 
> chainstay, but it shifts fine in the stand. I didn't have a BBG bashguard 
> small enough to use in the outer position, I'd have to raise the fder even 
> higher for that, so there's a weird BBG spacer thingie there. Coulda just 
> used track chainring bolts, but I guess I was looking for more silvery 
> bling, and an unused outer chainring ledge just looks a little lonely.
>
> The frame's built around 49mm-reach brakes, and the 33mm Soma Supple 
> Vitesse SLs at about 30mm on the narrow Mavic rims are close to max. Pinch 
> point is under the calipers, as it should be on a well-designed 49mm-reach 
> frame, so wider would work OK, but taller would get too tight.
>
> Having never shifted an 8spd cog range in friction mode before, I'm 
> looking forward to a nice ride with a fair amount of cussing.
>
> Flickr album here:
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsmQTkD5A
>
> [image: 50364618333_7b44b70f2e_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50365316941_5a20d1cf7d_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50364617503_09c1647a2e_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50365315696_71c9a96177_c.jpg]
>
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone interested in a Ride in NJ in October?

[Brian Campbell]

I am interested!

On Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 8:38:02 PM UTC-4 Brady Smith wrote:

> For a shorter ride, here's the Half-Dirty Populaire: 
> https://ridewithgps.com/routes/27124941
>
> On Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 7:08:56 PM UTC-4 John Hawrylak wrote:
>
>> Roberta
>>
>> The Cranbury 200K is fairly flat and some NJ Rando person may have a 
>> shorter version
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ, far southern NJ, The Garden Spot of the Garden State
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 4:05:18 PM UTC-4, Roberta wrote:
>>>
>>> It won't be as big or as exciting as our wonderful Eastern ride at 
>>> Mohonk for Riv's 25th anniversary, but I did notice a large number of New 
>>> Yorkers, especially from the boroughs.  I know there are a few of us from 
>>> NJ, and I'm not that far, in Philadelphia.
>>>
>>> I'm trying to learn more routes and was thinking that perhaps someone 
>>> (Bob E.???) could suggest something in NJ that we could meet at a NJ 
>>> Transit stop, making it easier for the NY-ers.  If there are more New 
>>> Yorkers than others, I'm willing to drive to you (as long as there's 
>>> parking).  I really don't know any routes other than the ones around 
>>> Philadelphia.
>>>
>>> I can do any Saturday or Sunday in October except for Oct 9 and 10. I'm 
>>> older and less strong than most of you; I cannot do "Mohonk" hills. 
>>>
>>> Roberta
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: TRP Drilled Brake Levers

[Brian Campbell]

Damien,
Thanks for getting in touch.

Sure. What were you thinking?


On Thu, Sep 17, 2020 at 10:24 AM Damien  wrote:

> Brian, I have a set of brand new never used drilled silver with gum hoods
> if interested
>
> On Wednesday, 16 September 2020 at 22:36:25 UTC-4 Brian Campbell wrote:
>
>> Paul,
>>
>> I want the levers. This new version of groups won't allow me to respond
>> via laptop or phone directly to you. I also did not get your message. My
>> e-mail is:
>>
>> bdcamp...@gmail.com
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 16, 2020 at 6:00:26 PM UTC-4 Paul Brodek wrote:
>>
>>> Sent an offlist PM, got clean silver/black ones available.
>>>
>>> Paul Brodek
>>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 16, 2020 at 3:44:30 PM UTC-4, Brian Campbell
>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi all. If anybody has any to sell, please get in touch.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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[RBW] Re: WTB: TRP Drilled Brake Levers

[Brian Campbell]

Paul,

I want the levers. This new version of groups won't allow me to respond via 
laptop or phone directly to you. I also did not get your message. My e-mail 
is:

bdcampbel...@gmail.com

On Wednesday, September 16, 2020 at 6:00:26 PM UTC-4 Paul Brodek wrote:

> Sent an offlist PM, got clean silver/black ones available.
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> On Wednesday, September 16, 2020 at 3:44:30 PM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:
>>
>> Hi all. If anybody has any to sell, please get in touch.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>

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[RBW] WTB: TRP Drilled Brake Levers

[Brian Campbell]

Hi all. If anybody has any to sell, please get in touch.

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Do you leave it alone...or must you monkey?

[Brian Campbell]

I bought both of my Riv's(AHH & Legolas) as frames only. I like swapping 
things around and trying different configurations. I have the Legolas 
dialed in pretty much and am now on to finishing a stem/brake lever/fender 
adjustment on the AHH which will have it set for a while. 

That said the AHH I have had since 2011 and have built it up many different 
ways. Its part of the joy of owning a Riv. They have a lot more flexibility 
when it comes to configuration than many other bikes.



On Tuesday, September 15, 2020 at 8:50:51 AM UTC-4 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

> As I wait for my first Rivendell (sort of) patiently, I can't help but 
> prowl their website and this group and stare at components and accessories 
> that I think I'd like to try. But...the only bike I've ever monkeyed with 
> is my current one that came with a fantastic Shimano RD...and that's about 
> it as far as solid components go. So I'm always playing with the idea of 
> getting a different crank, different brakes, different this or that. 
>
> My question (finally) is this - of those of you who have done an a la 
> carte build through Rivendell, who just leaves everything they picked out 
> and who is constantly trying different components? 
>
> I didn't spring for any Paul components or a set of Rich's wheels, but 
> everything that's coming on this bike is nicer than I need it to be...so 
> the plan is to never change anything except bar tape. But...there is a lot 
> of buying and selling of components here and elswhere.
>
> So yeah...do you tinker with a Riv build, or do you let it be? 
>
> -Ben
>

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[RBW] Re: shimmy 71.5 head angle

[Brian Campbell]

Headset installed correctly? Fork bent? Too much weight in the front? 
Weight too high on the bike? Lightweight tubing that flexes too much? 
Saddle height too high which generates a rocking motion and destabilizes 
the bikes center of gravity?

On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 1:54:05 PM UTC-4, Sam Perez wrote:
>
> why does my front loaded bike shimmy at speeds when I let go of the handle 
> bar head angle is 71.5. any thoughts?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who is using bike lights?

[Brian Campbell]

Patrick,

Yes. I think, for many, it reminds them of farm or construction equipment 
and they are pre-disposed to notice it. I have no proof of that but I have 
also found drivers giving me a bit more room, even in big pickup trucks. 
That did not always seem to be the case previously.

 Again, I have no proof of any of this, just an observation.



On Friday, August 21, 2020 at 7:33:09 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Brian: Sincere question: Was this during the day that drivers noticed this 
> so well?
>
> On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 3:44 PM Brian Campbell  > wrote:
>
>> In addition to using a generator powered headlight and taillight in 
>> "always on mode", I also use one of these:
>>
>>
>> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/odds-ends/products/miny-mini-mine-reflecto-triangle-minny
>>
>> I have had more than one passing driver mention that they noticed it.
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who is using bike lights?

[Brian Campbell]

In addition to using a generator powered headlight and taillight in "always 
on mode", I also use one of these:

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/odds-ends/products/miny-mini-mine-reflecto-triangle-minny

I have had more than one passing driver mention that they noticed it.



On Friday, August 21, 2020 at 5:11:08 PM UTC-4, Joel wrote:
>
>
> Thanks.  You are right about US drivers, Unless they also are cyclists 
> most are clueless 
>
> On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 4:36 PM aeroperf  > wrote:
>
>>
>> Interesting subject all around.
>>
>> Airplane studies, for both the Air Force and the FAA, indicate that 4 
>> cycles per second is the optimum flash rate for getting a pilot’s 
>> attention.  I use a Planet Bike Beamer 80 for the front, and Planet Bike 
>> Grateful Red taillight, both on quick flash mode.  They let folk know I’m 
>> there, without blinding anybody.  But here in the US I try to stay on the 
>> bike trail and off the roads.
>>
>> German bikes (at least 2002 - 2005 when I lived there) were required to 
>> come with a head and tail light, generally dynamo driven with those little 
>> snap-down-on-your-tire dynamos.  They were also required to have reflectors 
>> in the spokes and reflectors front and rear on the pedals.  You could 
>> always take these off, but that’s the way they were sold.  Apparently a 
>> study had been done and this was determined to be the most cost effective 
>> set of safety items, for both day and night.
>> For road touring, we’d add a light fluorescent green vest for daylight, 
>> and sometimes a pair of reflective ankle straps for night.  Dorky, sure, 
>> but you can see those vests pretty well on a moving bicyclist.
>>
>> I would say that US drivers have an order of magnitude less consideration 
>> for bicyclists than their European counterparts.  If I do plan on going on 
>> the road here for any distance, I still take that dorky green vest.  
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Converting a Legolas from threadless to threaded/quill

[Brian Campbell]

Maybe have a local builder replace the existing steerer tube with a longer, 
threaded version?

On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 8:16:32 AM UTC-4 Tom Goodmann wrote:

> This is a great bike, and not so easily found; and with the help of a 
> local friend from this list, the cockpit fits me well at the very limit of 
> spacers.  The steerer was cut too short to my liking by the previous owner, 
> and I am frustrated that the stem is not adjustable, a feature I enjoy with 
> quill stems.  I think the frame was made by Mark Nobilette.  Has anyone 
> converted a threadless steerer to threaded?  What do you think?  
> Appreciative, as ever, of this community.   --Tom in Miami 
>

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[RBW] WTB tall, vintage 26" cantilever frameset + requesting Rat Trap Pass reviews

[Brian Campbell]

I have a 22” 1986, Schwinn Cimarron frame and fork. Fork is a lugged unicrown 
and the frame is a mix of fillet brazing lugs an an ovalized top tube. Rear is 
130mm headset is 1”threaded.

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions for powerful, silver, light, 57 mm-reach front caliper brake for fixed gear

[Brian Campbell]

These look to be in ballpark

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tektro-R737-Long-Reach-Road-Caliper-Set-47-57mm-Silver/174333486467?epid=1137973691=item289715e583:g:NUMAAOSwelhe-1or

If
On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 1:37:13 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> This just in: Fixed loosening locknut problem by fixing another. What it 
> is I am ashamed to reveal on list. But the RGC caliper seems to be back to 
> design normal.
>
> But, still interested in hearing your opinions about your favorite front 
> calipers, and about the VO GC dual pivot in particular.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Patrick "Learning about his mistakes again, and again, and again, and 
> again, and again ..." Moore
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:56 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> I'm curious about alternatives to the RG Comp single pivot for the 
>> (single, front) brake for my 1999 Riv fixed gear. The RGC stops well and 
>> modulates well but has a habit of loosening, and the allen-head locknut is, 
>> as I discovered again yesterday, very finicky to tighten correctly -- I 
>> don't seem to be able to tighten firmly it against the pivot nut without 
>> binding the arms; IOW, I have to leave the allen locknut loose (applied 
>> blue Loctite, though). 
>>
>> Therefore the question: If you were relying on a single front caliper, 
>> and you like old fashioned and silver, what would you install?
>>
>> In particular, the VO G Cru long-reaches:
>> (
>> https://velo-orange.com/collections/brakes/products/grand-cru-long-reach-brakes
>> )
>>
>> Note: Prefer allen head, but nutted will be considered.
>>
>> I do like dual pivots overall for their power and ease of setup, but too 
>> many look klunky and bulky. The VOs aren't bad; what do you-plural think of 
>> them?
>>
>> And: If you each individually should have a nice such brake to sell, 
>> please do tell me. In particular, if you have a front VO G Cru in silver to 
>> sell, I'm interested; I don't want to buy a $170 pair if I don't have to.
>>
>> (And: Refresh my memory: Can I use a nutted rear in front with a longish 
>> allen nut? I think I can, but please confirm.)
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60cm Orange Rambouillet $800 Complete

[Brian Campbell]

Nice ! Any chance you would be interested in a frame only sale/shipping to 
PA?

On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 10:16:49 AM UTC-4 John Beaston wrote:

> Culling the herd. 
> Orange Rivendell Rambouillet. Serial RB 0419
> Original owner. My beloved, year-round commuter for many years.
> Paint in good condition. One area under rear stay has paint rubbed off 
> (but protected by clearcoat). Not visible under usual riding conditions.
> Set up as 1X9. Sugino XD cranks. 
> Ultegra rear derailleur. Ultegra downtube shifter.
> Ultegra brakes and levers.
> Ultegra hubs with Mavic Open Pro rims.
> Rear and partial front RCB Full Wood fenders.
> Nitto stem and Noodle bars.
> Nitto rear rack.
> WTB saddle with Nitto seatpost.
> Sans pedals.
>
> Prefer a local Portland, OR buyer (PayPal) but will ship via BikeFlights 
> if buyer pays the pack/ship. More pics upon request.
>
> [image: Rambouillet.jpg]
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: This is second time this happened and I am seriously annoyed. And I would like help to see this doesn't happen again.

[Brian Campbell]

Quick ebay search shows 4 used, silver, 26.8, 2 bolt posts available ATM. 
Not really scarce.

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 2:49:50 PM UTC-4 George Schick wrote:

> Ann is facing an interesting dilemma, as am I.  One of my bikes is a 
> nearly 50 year old Fuji road bike from the early 70's.  It was in pretty 
> bad shape when I got it and I fixed it up with various more modern 
> components, etc. into a Resurrectio.  But the one constraint is that 26.8 
> seat post.  I'd like something more modern, something with the two-bolt 
> saddle clamp, as described above.  But it's slim pickin's out there in the 
> component market and I'm pretty much stuck with a cheap old single-bolt, 
> hard to adjust accurately seat post, like it or not.
>
>
> On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 1:26:02 PM UTC-5, Ann L wrote:
>>
>> Dave:
>>
>> Thank you.  But I don't think it will work.  I currently have a 26.8 x 
>> 250 Nitto 65s seatpost and that one only comes in 27.2.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Your Favorite Adhesive for Riv Cork Grips???

[Brian Campbell]

The super glue. I haven't timed myself but sliding a grip on  does not take 
45 seconds. Also the working time is an estimate.

On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 7:12:34 PM UTC-4, John Phillips wrote:
>
> Hi Brian, 
>
>Do you mean the clear Gorilla Glue, or the clear Gorilla Super Glue. 
> The super glue says it only gives you 10-45 seconds of working time.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
> On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 10:55:07 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:
>>
>> Piece of cloth tape on the handle bar and some Gorilla brand Super Glue. 
>> Not the kind the expands as it dries. 
>>
>> On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 1:19:26 PM UTC-4, John Phillips wrote:
>>>
>>>   Do you have a favorite adhesive you use to keep them from rotating?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Your Favorite Adhesive for Riv Cork Grips???

[Brian Campbell]

Piece of cloth tape on the handle bar and some Gorilla brand Super Glue. 
Not the kind the expands as it dries. 

On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 1:19:26 PM UTC-4, John Phillips wrote:
>
>   Do you have a favorite adhesive you use to keep them from rotating?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Kellogg Spectrum Road Bike 62c-c x 56c-c

[Brian Campbell]

wish that was a 60cm, C-T with a 58cm top tube...oh well. Good luck!

On Sunday, July 5, 2020 at 8:39:51 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> Kellog Spectrum Road: $950 pickup/drop-off 
>
> I'm gonna try to clear a few hooks and made some space, spin off a 
> couple/few steeds that don't get out much. Between me not having any bike 
> boxes, and all my local LBS having a very hard time getting any new bikes, 
> so no free boxes readily available, I'm starting out saying no shipping 
> right now. I'll drive 50mi from NE Jersey, 07642, north, west or south, to 
> meetup and drop off. It that doesn't work, I'll look at shipping, but won't 
> make any promises until I can score some boxes.
>
> Obliquely ibobish/Rivvish like a Bridgestone RB-1..? 
>
> This is a Spectrum road frame of indeterminate age, tallish with a 
> shortish top tube. Some of the frame details, mainly the top-of-bb cable 
> guides and older Spectrum decal, say mid-'80s to me, but I don't see a ser# 
> on the bb shell, and there's a simple "94" stamped on the steerer tube. 
> 94th frame built? Can't imagine it was spec'd this way in '94, especially 
> with the older decals.
>
> Has all the Kellogg/Spectrum hallmarks: clean lugs, lovely scalloped seat 
> stay plugs, smooth/clean top tube internal brake casing routing with 
> internal guide tube, and beefy chain stays with minimal/precise dimples.
>
> It is a performance road frame, tight wheelbase, upright angles, no 
> fender/rack bosses. It rides fast and smooth, but with pretty neutral 
> handling. Never felt like an '80s crit bike to me. 
>
> I'd call 26-27mm actual width max, pinch point is under the front brake. 
> True 28mm tires rubbed the underside of the front brake, and were pretty 
> darn tight both at the chainstays and under the rear brake.
>
> No dents, dings, or scrapes deeper than primer. 
>
> Rides straight, threads are clean. My last pre-sale build was a test bed 
> for a 38/24 double, which didn't work in the rear with the bb-top cable 
> guides, so there's a drilled/tapped hole in the bb for an under-bb cable 
> guide. I'll plug it with a bolt.
>
> Pretty clean metalflake black overall, with a few scrapes, visible in the 
> photos. Biggest ones are on the outside of the drive-side seat stay, and 
> under the Kellogg name on the non-drive chainstay. No rust or paint 
> bubbling; the top tube brake casing openings are clean, which isn't always 
> the case. 
>
> Build is all the 740x Dura-Ace you can get, except for the bottom bracket. 
> Details below.
>
> Happy to answer questions. Some pix attached, more at flickr:
> [url]
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/26383479@N04/albums/72157662802506202[/url]
>
> 50mi of N-S-W Jersey/07642
>
> ST 62.0cm c-c, 63.5cm c-t
> TT: 56.0cm c-c
> HT: 200mm
> Saddle height in photos: 81.5cm (stem/post are at min insertion in pix)
> ST 72.8-deg, HT 74.0-deg
> Chainstay: 41.5cm, wheelbase 97.5cm
> BB drop: 66mm
> Standover: 86.0cm/33.8"
> Rear spacing: 126mm
> Tire clearance: 26-27mm actual
> 
> Frame: 4.5lb/2.0kg
> Fork: 1.7lb/0.78k
> F/F: 6.2lb/2.8kg
> Built weight: 22.13lb w/pedals
>
> Build is mostly Shimano Dura-Ace 740x series:
>
> FC-7402 crankset, 172.5mm, 39x52t
> FD-7403 front deraileur
> RD-7402 rear derailleur
> SL-740x shifters, 8spd indexed
> BR-7402 brakes
> BL-7402 brake levers
> SP-740x seatpost, 27.2mm
> D-A headset, sealed bearing
> D-A handlebar stem, 120mm, w/aluminum repop cap
>
> Wheels:
> D-A hubset, 32h, Uniglide 8spd 13-24t
> D-A qr skewers
> Mavic Open 4D rims
> Michelin Axial Pro 700x23 (actual 22.8mm rear; 23.5mm front)
>
> Other:
> Shimano UN-55 107mm sealed bearing bottom bracket
> KMC chain
> Nitto B-177 48cm bars
> Giro Pave saddle
>
> Apologies for the goofy Wellgo MG-1 screaming yellow pedals. They were on 
> my bench. Yours if you want them.
>
> Album with current FS build at the top, past builds below:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/26383479@N04/albums/72157662802506202
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> [image: 50079998238_9fdbe1e471_c.jpg]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant;s Ritchey Tandem?

[Brian Campbell]

I had a tandem almost exactly like the one linked, that I got from a local 
craigslist seller. I
Grant Petersen  
Sat, Jun 2, 2012, 7:18 AM
to me
Hi Brian,
I bought a custom Ritchey tandem in '81 that is almost identical, down to 
the color. It was Imron Berry Red metallic. Mine was 22-inches front and 
rear--this one seems about 24-inches, or at least 23. And my captain's seat 
binder tightened near the front, not the rear. My first year of Rivendell 
was so rough (mismanaged?) that I had to sell six Ritcheys. All of 'em. All 
fillet brazed and beautiful (but all too small by my current standards).

THis one is sooo much l ike mine. The long twin laterals with the X 
bracing---later simplified---is an example of Tom at his complicated best. 
He never got worse--I'm not implying that---but this is him probably in 
1979/80, I'm guessing. The reversed seat binder would follow the 
normal-direction one...the normal direction one would naturally be the 
default. At least, I think so.

Well. It's a beautiful bike, and I know how it rides. Thanks for the pix.

(I am really good friends with Tom's son, Jay---who worked at RIV for 3 
years before following his love life down to Arizona. And of course I know 
Tom. Tom doesn't dwell a lot on the past, but he'd know in an instant when 
this bike was built. I expect to see him within the month---but I also 
trust my guess of 79/80. It's a damn good guess.

THanks for sending. sent pictures to Grant since he had mentioned having 
one previously he sent the below email to me aa few years back:


Seems like the seller could be on level.


On Monday, June 29, 2020 at 10:18:56 PM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
>
> The seller says this tandem was owned by Grant. Maybe do a group by and 
> send it home? :-}
>
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ritchey-Tandem-Bike/254636142833?hash=item3b497f30f1:g:trwAAOSw4lte9liz
>

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[RBW] Grant;s Ritchey Tandem?

[Brian Campbell]

The seller says this tandem was owned by Grant. Maybe do a group by and 
send it home? :-}


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ritchey-Tandem-Bike/254636142833?hash=item3b497f30f1:g:trwAAOSw4lte9liz

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[RBW] Re: Bike frame suggestions for longish distance 95% road comfort

[Brian Campbell]

I have a 1974 Motobecane Grand Record frame 60cm. Full 531. Takes 38mm 
tires and will easily take 35 and fenders. Paint is a bit rough but if you 
have an interest let me know and I will send pictures.

On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 9:48:32 PM UTC-4, Mark Roland wrote:
>
> I thought some years RB-1s maxed out at about 28mm tires, though I could 
> be wrong. I think the issue would be the bottom of the brake calipers. But 
> maybe the '93 was one that took wider tires.
>
> While I would agree with Paul that some of the touring frames mentioned 
> would be a bit portly, a 70s/80s 531 frame in 60cm I think would be just 
> fine with one of those mini handlebar bags from VO or a Banana Sack, if you 
> want to be a rando kid.
>
> On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 7:11:35 PM UTC-4, Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>> Thank you all for the incredible information. I really do appreciate the 
>> time spent on my hunt for a glass hammer! Iv'e got a couple candidates so 
>> far, one being a local seller with a 93' (same age as me!) RB-1 frameset 
>> and another with a Mercian I'd like to get additional info on. The longer 
>> wheelbase of the Mercian is very tempting but I've also heard the RB-1 
>> rides stable for it's geo so more to come. 
>>
>> Wishing everyone good health, 
>> Andrew
>>
>> On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 3:19:47 PM UTC-5 Brady Smith wrote:
>>
>>> If you decide low trail is what you want, you might consider the Soma 
>>> Grand Randonneur. Designed by the Boulder Bicycle people, but way, way 
>>> cheaper than their All-Road. If I had funds for a third bike, it would 
>>> probably be the one I'd choose. 
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 27, 2020 at 10:06:09 PM UTC-4, Andrew Turner wrote:
>>>
 Hello Group.
 Maybe I'll just start this conversation off with what I'm searching for 
 and I'll add the backstory after. 

- steel frame + fork (lugged preferably) that could clear 700x32 
tires 
- rim brake
- lightish tubing ( I weigh a scant 132lbs at 6'1") 
- DT shifter braze-ons 
- Trying to keep the price to no more than $1000 for frame + fork
- Frames of all ages welcome 
- Designed to hold weight in the front (but I can make do with a 
saddlebag)

 Bikes I've had in the past to try to fit these requirements: 

- VO Campeur: way better suited for heavy touring. Way stouter than 
I need.
- Black Mtn Cycles monster cross: pretty nice but that frame really 
wanted tires in the 38mm+ range which is overkill for me. 
- Rivendell Roadini: damn fine frame and very comfortable. Tig 
welded though and I might've gotten too large of frame with the 61cm. 
 On my 
list of possibilities though. The quality was also a disappointment for 
 my 
first riv, chipped paint out of the box and very poorly installed 
 headset. 

 I just got done with my first longer ride on a 58cm Gazelle Champion 
 Mondial AA frame . I built it up because riding my first brevet on the VO 
 Campeur a year ago made me realize how important a more nimble bike, 
 especially for majority road use, is. But I might've gone too far. It's a 
 rocket no doubt but I found it fatiguing having to stay so vigilant on 
 descents. And putting the weight up front lead to a very close call down a 
 particularly sketchy downhill. I think slacker geometry might help with 
 that ;) 

 All this to say, if any of you rando kids have some suggestions I'm all 
 ears! 

 Thanks Group, 
 Andrew



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Re: [RBW] Most modified?

[Brian Campbell]

Thanks Jason! I got the tail light here:

https://www.velolumino.com/

Anton, is the maker, ibob and riv list member and all round good guy. The 
taillight has worked perfectly for years, in all kinds of weather.



On Tuesday, June 16, 2020 at 2:11:49 AM UTC-4, Jason Fuller wrote:
>
> I came across your bike Brian when researching ideas for how to run a tail 
> light wire on my Sam, just an hour ago, and immediately thought of it when 
> I saw this thread!  
>
> Related to that, I'm considering brazing the Rene Herse taillight on my 
> Sam, but in all likelihood i'll go with fender mounted. 
>
> On Sunday, 14 June 2020 15:01:50 UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:
>>
>> I had my AHH modified for internal wiring and Paul braze-on Center pull 
>> brakes.
>>
>> [image: hilsen.JPG]
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Headset/Headtube Issues on New Atlantis

[Brian Campbell]

I would call Rivendell as your next step. Maybe have the shop and Riv 
communicate about the problem, so everyone is on the same page? Maybe its a 
manufacturing issue vs. a damage in shipping in issue. I would try to get 
it resolved before going further. Good luck and sorry to hear about the 
issue.

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 12:35:05 PM UTC-4, AntiCorgi wrote:
>
> Hi All:
>
> Hope everyone reading this is doing well and staying healthy.
>
> I recently had a MIT 55cm 700c Atlantis built up for me, and upon 
> receiving it noticed a bit of play in the headset region (e.g. I held the 
> front brake and rocked back and forth and heard a "clunking/clicking" noise 
> and saw some movement between the threaded upper race and upper pressed 
> race). I took it to a local bike shop to have it tightened, but no matter 
> how much they tightened it, they were not able to get rid of the play. They 
> asked me to leave it with them so they could take apart the headset and 
> check out what was going on, which is what I did.
>
> Yesterday, I received a call back from them reporting that they started to 
> take apart my headset, and in the process of doing so they reported that 
> the "lower headset cup was moving around in the frame" and said that they 
> think the head-tube is ovalized and I should get in touch with "the 
> manufacturer" about it. Understandably, I'm pretty bummed about this 
> development, but I'm wondering if I should try to get a second opinion 
> here? Namely, are there other reasons why the lower headset cup could be 
> moving around in the frame? 
>
> I haven't even ridden the bike yet so it seems pretty unlikely that the 
> head-tube would be ovalized - the shipping box it came in was in good 
> condition and everything else was fine. I'm by no means an expert in bike 
> maintenance/mechanics so I can't think of a non-riding reason for this to 
> occur.  I did get insurance on the shipping, so if it ends up that it was 
> damaged due to a hard drop or something I should be covered.
>
> Thanks all!
>

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[RBW] WTB: Chris King 1" headset misc. bits

[Brian Campbell]

Joe,

I have a King 1” threaded in silver. It’s missing the crown race but has 
everything else. Is that what you are looking for?

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[RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[Brian Campbell]

VO is offering something similar:

https://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2020/05/mega-list-of-project-updates.html

Drop tube/drop bar bikes are a " thing" now.

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Re: [RBW] Next Level Clementine

[Brian Campbell]

Awesome bike! Glad everything worked out and you are getting to enjoy you 
Clem even more!

On Saturday, June 6, 2020 at 3:36:43 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Strange Magic

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[RBW] Re: Lightening up my Joe Appaloosa--a full makeover. AHH--a partial makeover. Thanks to Analog Cycles.

[Brian Campbell]

Spoke Nipples! Sorry. hit spost before proofreading.

On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 4:28:47 PM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> Congrats Roberta! So glad it all worked out so well for you!  Its always 
> nice to take something you enjoy and find a way to enjoy it even more! Hope 
> to see you on the trail sometime. I won't be able to miss the purple 
> nipples!
>

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[RBW] Re: Lightening up my Joe Appaloosa--a full makeover. AHH--a partial makeover. Thanks to Analog Cycles.

[Brian Campbell]

Congrats Roberta! So glad it all worked out so well for you!  Its always 
nice to take something you enjoy and find a way to enjoy it even more! Hope 
to see you on the trail sometime. I won't be able to miss the purple 
nipples!

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[RBW] Sunglasses

[Brian Campbell]

I use these:

https://www.underarmour.com/en-us/ua-igniter-2-0-storm-polarized-sunglasses/pid1268170

and find them frequently on eBay for less than half the retail price.

They are “men’s” but my wife wears mine so often I am getting her some for an 
upcoming birthday.

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[RBW] Re: Place-based bicycle design

[Brian Campbell]

I have an older, non-lengthened AHH and a Legolas. I live in SE PA, near 
Philadelphia so both of these bikes work very well for the environment 
where I ride.  No mountains and and mostly paved roads, albeit in bad shape 
but not single track or fire roads.

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[RBW] Re: It’s dull around here, let me bring some color

[Brian Campbell]

Leah,

Maybe include this link as a reference for the mechanic?

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/wiringinstructions.php

Best of luck and the wheels look great! You will love riding at night not 
having to worry about batteries. I know I do! 

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[RBW] Re: Brake lever preference with Nitto Noodles

[Brian Campbell]

I have the TRP drilled levers on one set of Noodles and Cane Creek SCR-5 on 
another set of noodles. I like the TRP levers better.


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[RBW] Re: Not Buying New Goat, WTB Clem

[Brian Campbell]

Here is a Clem/Betty alternate FS on a sister Google Group. I am in no way 
affiliated!

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/internet-bob/yQoMtMn95xE

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[RBW] Re: Admissions of Things You Ought to Have Known But Did Not: A Thread

[Brian Campbell]

4 or 5 years ago I picked up a vintage Trek 710 that ended up having a 
stuck seat post. I removed the crank set and put some penetrating fluid  
into the seat tube via the open bottom bracket. I let it sit for a few days 
and it still would not budge.

An internet search showed me that I could clamp the seat in a vise and use 
the frame as a lever to break the stuck post free. So I did.

A strong push, a cracking sound and movement! 

So I leaned in to it and split the seat lug down to the seat tube and bent 
it outward. The post was still stuck and it was the seat lug breaking 
rather than the post moving. l learned that force is not always your 
friend. Its one I have to keep remanding myself of over & over when it 
comes to bike repair..

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[RBW] Re: Joe's Custom

[Brian Campbell]

Can I put a bid in now for when your selling it for in 6 moths? ;-) Very 
nice and great color choices!I hope you thousands and thousands of happy 
miles from it!

On Tuesday, April 28, 2020 at 11:54:51 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Who wants to see pretty Joe Bell paint on a custom Rivendell 
> not-quite-a-mixte? You do, that's who!*
>
> *pics sent from JB, I don't have the frame yet 
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo - The Final Rivendell Edition

[Brian Campbell]

Very nice bike! Pretty much how I would have built a Roadeo.

On Monday, April 27, 2020 at 2:54:58 AM UTC-4, Jonathan D. wrote:
>
> Thanks for sharing. I have a 59 Roadeo coming next week and also have the 
> Road Plus. I am excited to compare and look forward to your impressions. 

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[RBW] Re: 30 Days of Biking!

[Brian Campbell]

Thank you!

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 7:54:42 PM UTC-4, truegolden wrote:
>
> That's a beautiful Legolas Brian.
>
> And what a great name for a bike. 
>
> Paul in Dallas 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] 30 Days of Biking!

[Brian Campbell]

Quick post work video call ride. 12 miles ad 1400' of climbing. Quick stop 
on the way home for photo op:



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