[RBW] Re: 90s Road Double paired with 11-36 9 speed rear cassette

[KenP]

Brenton,
   I ride road barend shifters, a ten speed 32/52 front and 11-28 rear with 
a modern Shimano clutch derailleur and a Tan-Pan adapter.  Gives me lots of 
gears.  When  keeping a  50+ in the front and a 36 in the back, if the 
chain is long enough to fit the large front ring and the large back ring, 
then, the derailleur probably won't wrap up the small front ring and the 
small back ring.
Ken P.

On Tuesday, December 26, 2023 at 1:11:45 PM UTC-5 brenton...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I am thinking about going NOS or near-new-vintage crankset for a build. 
> Nothing against modern stuff, but eBay seems to have a plethora of nice 
> shimano 105/600 cranksets in great shape for under $100.
>
> I know 90s road bike gearing was more focused on racing with small 
> cassettes in the rear. But has anyone had success or suggestions 
> for/against getting an older shimano square taper road double with 53/39 or 
> 52/42ish and paired with an 11-36 9spd cassette? Seems like Riv doesn't 
> offer any doubles with outer ring bigger than 46 and the smaller rings are 
> in the 20s. 
>
> I have a triple on my Sam and spend 90% of my time in the middle ring, 
> even on tough climbs, and I've had several doubles on vintage road bikes/CX 
> bikes in the past.
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: A Riv in SF on January 3rd. Also looking for some route tips

[KenP]

Ask Riv for a demo-loaner?

On Friday, December 22, 2023 at 9:04:28 PM UTC-5 James wrote:

> This may be a long-shot but I figured I would try.  I am traveling to SF 
> this new year and my cousin and I were looking to do an overnight bike 
> trip, leaving from and returning to SF.  I have been a long time lurker and 
> poster here, and I am wondering if anyone in the SF area would consider 
> lending me their Rivendell (size 59-65cm) from January 3rd to January 4th.  
> I have decided not to pack my 63cm AHH for the journey.  I am happy to put 
> down collateral of sorts.  It would be a pleasure to do the bike trip on a 
> Rivendell, and I think any model would do.  If this is something you would 
> consider, please reach out and we can talk on the phone and make sure we 
> are both comfortable with it.
>
> Secondly, I am open to any route recommendations.  We are looking for 
> 30ish miles each way.  Has anyone here camped on or around Pantoll?  We 
> haven't reservations so we would use hiker/biker sites.  Any specific 
> trails ya'll would recommend? 
>
> Thank you for considering this proposal and any route tips you may have.
>
> James
>

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Re: [RBW] ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[KenP]

sometimes a chainring gets bumped and half bent out of alignment

On Friday, June 9, 2023 at 12:16:31 PM UTC-4 Wesley wrote:

> Caroline,
> If you recently had the chain and cassette replace, then your problems 
> with the chain dropping may be because the chainring is worn. Most 
> chainrings are aluminum, which wears faster than steel cogs. And since the 
> same chainring is used for all riding while the cogs are changed by 
> shifting, the wear is more concentrated on the chainring. Both of these 
> lead to chainrings wiring out faster than cogs, and a worn chainring will 
> not hold the chain securely. This can act in combination with problems 
> others hav suggested here - especially bent detailer hanger and too-slack 
> chain - to drop the chain off the chainring.
> -Wes
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:53:07 AM UTC-7 Caroline Golum wrote:
>
>> Thanks everyone! I had the chain + cassette replaced in February, both 
>> new parts, so I'm assuming they both have plenty of life left. 
>>
>> The last mechanic I spoke with assured me the limits on my derailleur 
>> were good. FWIW I've had the same Shimano 105 rear derailleur since I built 
>> the bike in 2009. 
>>
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:42:45 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Did the derailleur service include verification that the derailleur 
>>> hanger is straight?
>>>
>>> Agree that it is unlikely to be a shifter issue.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:34:54 PM UTC-4 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 That sounds like an issue with chain retention and not the shifter. 
 Clutch RD ? New rings ? New chain ?

 On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 10:32 AM Caroline Golum  
 wrote:

> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've 
> had 
> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>
> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 
> 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
> .  
>
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>  
> 
> .
>


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[RBW] Re: spacing between chainrings

[KenP]

Over several years I went through all kinds of permutations trying to cure 
a problem like this;  I tried different chainrings, different derailleurs, 
different shifters.  I had changed the chairings on my Sugino XD2 to 30, 
38, 53 and originally took out the spacers.  The 9 speed chains and the 10 
speed chains would occasionally fall between the rings.  Riv even sent me 
some thin spacers that seemed to help some.  I think what cured it was 
getting compatible rings.  The middle ring is spec'd as a "middle ring" and 
the outer ring is of the same brand and they are ramped and pinned.  Mel at 
Tandems East sent them to me.  It has been at least three years now and 
they work.I have ended up with 10 speed shifters, indexed rear Shimano 
Clutch der. and 10 speed chain.  Quite a headache.   I don't want to even 
touch it again out of fear.
KenP

On Sunday, May 14, 2023 at 8:40:35 PM UTC-4 J Schwartz wrote:

> Thanks for the feedback
> I ended up changing the 5mm spacers to 4mm spacers, replaced the Phil 
> 113mm BB to a UN50 110mm BB I had laying around, made some front derailleur 
> limit adjustments and cleaned the drivetrain... Quick ride around and 
> things seems to be shifting very well.
> Haven't had the chain try to dive in between the rings either 
>
> On Saturday, May 13, 2023 at 9:27:16 PM UTC-4 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Joel, for purposes of chaining I'd suggest ignoring the bash guard and 
>> reference your chainline as you would for a conventional double (the bash 
>> guard is irrelevant to tchainline considerations. If you happen to have a 
>> long enough meter/yardstick (or something like it) you can lay one end 
>> between the two chainrings and check which cog on the cassette the other 
>> end.of stick rests on. For a nine speed the "ideal" would be a right on the 
>> 5th cog, i.e., the middle of the cassette. Anything fairly close to that is 
>> good. (Apologies if I'm belaboring what you already know).  
>> On Saturday, May 13, 2023 at 4:24:26 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> I would guess on 4mm. The worst that happens is you change em again! 
>>>
>>> On Saturday, May 13, 2023 at 12:44:23 PM UTC-7 J Schwartz wrote:
>>>
>>>> Well I already took the crank off
>>>> The spacers I used, which I really thought were the ones that came with 
>>>> the Silver crank, are indeed 5mm
>>>> [image: IMG_0592.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> But they very well may not be the ones that came with
>>>> I also have a set of each of these two below.  One is obviously larger 
>>>> around than the other
>>>> -The larger diameter spacer measures 3mm tall 
>>>> -The small diameter spacer measures 4mm tall
>>>> Which would be advisable to put on?
>>>> [image: IMG_0593.JPG]
>>>> Crazy to think that 1mm here or there would cause the issue of the 
>>>> chain slipping down between the rings.
>>>> Also, as all this pertains to chainline
>>>> I should be referencing the middle chainring in my case to the middle 
>>>> of the seat tube to get the appropriate chainline, correct?  (Even though 
>>>> this isn't really a triple, but a double with a bashguard in the large 
>>>> spot)
>>>> thanks
>>>> JS
>>>> On Saturday, May 13, 2023 at 2:56:12 PM UTC-4 John Hawrylak, Woodstown 
>>>> NJ wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> *Suggest calling/writing RBW.*
>>>>> I recall a Grant write up a few years ago comparing the Silver to the 
>>>>> XD2 2 and I remember something about spacers on the 74mm BCD posts.
>>>>>
>>>>>  If the crank is on the bike, you can measure the distance form the 
>>>>> end of the seat tube to the teeth of the Middle and Inner rings using 
>>>>> paper 
>>>>> cut to size, and then the difference is the middle to Inner ring spacing 
>>>>> and verify if > 5mm.
>>>>>
>>>>> For reference, my XD-2 with Sugino Rings have ring spacing > thr 5mm 
>>>>> Shimano standard:
>>>>> Outer to Middle,   7mm
>>>>> Middle to Inner,  8mm
>>>>>
>>>>> John Hawrylak
>>>>> Woodstown NJ
>>>>>
>>>>> On Saturday, May 13, 2023 at 8:50:06 AM UTC-4 J Schwartz wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> weird question...but here goes
>>>>>> I disassembled a Silver triple and had it apart for awhile and 
>>>>>> recently put it back together as a double with a bashguard.
>>>>>> So, i

[RBW] Re: 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[KenP]

   Analog sold me one of those SR years ago and I have been using it ever 
since.  I like it.  Would one of the Rivendell lugged seatposts work?  They 
have a setback and I have one of them on a bike and like it.  Probably hard 
to find.

On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 1:28:18 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Leah, I'm happy to be helpful! I'm also sorry to hear you tried and had a 
> bad experience with the IRD seatpost. I was excited when it was released 
> because it seemed like it would solve the 26.8 lots of setback problem. But 
> that seatpost is just a problem and a setback in and of itself. 
>
> Just as a note on the Kalloy post: it lists 24mm of offset. Compared to a 
> Nitto S83 at 23mm that's hardly a noticeable difference. I can get that 
> extra millimeter if I forego underwear. 
>
> I will again endorse the SR MTE-100. They're hard to find, they're pretty 
> ugly but they're stout and have *tons* of setback. I did have trouble 
> getting that quick release to stay put so I replaced mine with a long 8mm 
> bolt and a nylock nut. 
>
> [image: Screenshot 2023-04-13 at 1.25.06 PM.png]
>
> On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 12:07:01 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> Eric, I’m so glad you started this thread. I went through the same 
>> odyssey a few years ago and tried the IRD seatpost and it slipped like 
>> crazy. Riv took it back and stopped selling it because it was a widespread 
>> problem. I want a bit more setback on my Platy so I’m going to take Liz’s 
>> recommendation.
>>
>> Liz - thank you SO much! I was led to believe during my search that I was 
>> out of luck because most seatposts come in the-27-whatever size and not our 
>> uncommon 26.8. Can this seat post really work well at only $15?!? 
>>
>> Much thanks,
>> Leah
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 10:42:42 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> [image: Screenshot 2023-04-12 at 10.40.34 PM.png]
>>>
>>> Hi all — I'm comparing 26.8 seatposts and their varying setback. I'd 
>>> like the saddle on my MB-2 to be further back. 
>>>
>>> Does anyone have any firsthand experience with how a Thompson and Nitto 
>>> S83 compare in terms of setback? I've been searching around and can't find 
>>> any definitive measurements. 
>>>
>>> I'm currently running a Suntour XC Pro seatpost and it looks like either 
>>> of the above will give me more setback than I currently have.  
>>>
>>> I've tried and very much did *not* like the IRD wayback seatpost, it 
>>> slips. Others have reported the same. Don't buy this seatpost! 
>>>
>>> The vintage SR MTE-100 is good, solid, I run one on my Appaloosa. Would 
>>> rather try something different. Plus, they're hard to find! 
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[KenP]

Yep, been there too.  Usually an easy-out works if done carefully as 
mentioned in the other posts. You have to get that hole centered and 
deeper.  Usually works.  One more idea; drill the whole thing out bigger 
and put in a helicoil to replace the threads.  One more idea; take off the 
boss completely and there are strap-on bosses made for bikes that don't 
have any type of stops--a yucky fix though.  Riv used to sell them, you 
could give them a call.  

On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 2:43:21 PM UTC-5 ryan.tre...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello everyone, I've gotten myself into a bit of a predicament with one of 
> my downtube bosses; I've sheared off the bolt flush with the brazed on boss 
> (see pic below).  Any ideas on how to extract it?  I've tried using a drill 
> extractor bit with my drill, but didn't work. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ryan
>
> [image: 3DE5D487-0675-43CD-85A8-74193FE2964C.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus questions

[KenP]

To get on our tandem I have to step over the top tube to avoid hitting the 
rear handlebars were I to I swing my leg back there. It is not as 
step-through  as the Platypus.  It is a sloped top tube, so to make it even 
lower I tilt the tandem steeply toward me.  That puts the top tube lower 
and I can get my leg over the top tube..

On Monday, February 6, 2023 at 10:44:54 PM UTC-5 dougP wrote:

> I love my Atlantis, but it's getting harder to swing the old leg over the 
> saddle. Time to move on to a step thru. The Platypus looks like the best 
> option for my riding, mostly short trips around town. 
>
> The 55 cm fits my PBH (84) & saddle height. What I'm interested in doing 
> is comparing the geometry to my 58 cm Toyo Atlantis. Specifically, I'm 
> curious about the distance of the seat from the bars. I seem to be 
> shrinking in my old age & the reach on the Atlantis is just a bit too far. 
> Not unridable but a noticeable stretch, even with a short stem & swept back 
> bars.
>
> Let me know if you may be of assistance. Be forewarned I'll probably think 
> of some more questions if this looks promising. It would be fantastic is 
> you're in southern California.
>
> Doug Peterson 
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: I'm a New Bike Commuter

[KenP]

Roberta,
  Did anyone make a suggestion to develop a to-do/to-bring checklist?It 
took me a few months to develop a routine, gradually finding out what is 
needed for each trip and season.
Your needs will vary.  I have to remember my lights and to charge them the 
night before, my clothes, though I keep a set at my desk, water, bike 
tools, spare tube, lock and key, sun lotion, a magazine to read at lunch 
(and the bag lunch); we have to take our temperature at home before we can 
enter the office.  Lots of things to remember.  So, a list helps.
Inevitably I will forget something.  Just this week I forgot to bring a 
belt and now there's a new use for a bunch of Irish straps.
Ken 
   

On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 9:33:29 AM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:

> After living in the city for decades, my company moved its office and I 
> can finally bike or walk commute--just under 2 miles each way.   I've been 
> varying my method based on the weather (I don't like riding in the rain, 
> snow or ice) and both are fabulous ways to start and end the day, 
> physically and mentally.  Most of the ride is on streets with bike lanes.  
> I'll be riding one of my two step-through's--Platypus or She-Devil.  I can 
> take the bike into my office.
>
> I like using a backpack for walking, but not sure about riding.   What do 
> you use for a short commuter trips--backpack (current preference, not not 
> sure how hot I'll find it in the warmer months), pannier or saddle bag (I 
> have a Riv Small Saddlesack).  I have rack or rack and basket on the back 
> of each bike. I'll be carrying lunch, a change of clothes and shoes.
>
> I have lots of lights and reflectors on the bikes.  Any other suggestions?
>
> Roberta
>

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[RBW] Re: High and wide versus low and narrow drop bar for off road riding

[KenP]

Crust Shaka bar, 54mm?

On Saturday, January 15, 2022 at 11:40:34 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> So, I tried the Crust towel rack (narrow version) and it gave me neck pain 
> but the 50cm Simworks SoBar (basically a 50cm Noodle) works beautifully for 
> me; a 48cm Nitto Noodle is the closest still-available option. I have 
> somewhat broad shoulders for my size but I'm not a big guy, so normally I'd 
> run a 42 or so. Everyone is different, but I recommend this bar highly in 
> as wide as your body will allow - the control of a wider drop bar 
> off-pavement is undeniable. And the Noodle is such a classic and still hard 
> to beat shape IMO, especially coming off a randonneur style bar 
>
> On Friday, 14 January 2022 at 16:16:27 UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Thanks Richard, good idea; I'll contact Analog. In fact what got me
>> thinking about this was looking at someone's -- Analog's? -- very wide
>> but very, very short reach and drop drop bar on a very short stem. I
>> also want to talk to them about the Tanglefoot.
>>
>> Garth: Thanks. The problem is not that I'm forcing myself to sit up
>> higher than the bar comfortably allows but that the bar feels too
>> narrow for slow speed handling, especially with the fat (61 mm), soft
>> (20 psi) tires. I "feel" I need more leverage. In fact, I've been
>> thinking I ought to try riding this one particular section (about 2'
>> wide, fence and big Cottonwood on West, path sloping to ditch on East,
>> roots and erosion) in the hooks and see if that gives me more control.
>>
>> But you may be right that the solution might simply be to get the bar
>> a bit higher and regain the bank angle by bending my elbows more.
>> Perhaps flipping the -17* stem (high head tube!) upward and getting a
>> 46 cm version of the same bar might work ...?
>>
>> [Jim's stem calculator says that this will put the bar 56 mm higher
>> and 17 mm closer than with the stem flipped to -17*; anyone care to
>> guess how much reach would be regained with a bar 4 cm wider?]
>>
>> At any rate, I'm looking more for others' ideas and setups and not
>> only bar types. I've used the Cowbell (I think; I know I've used the
>> Woodchipper), the On OneMary, perhaps another modern wide, flared bar,
>> as well as various iterations of the old WTB flared bar, its Nitto and
>> Specializeds cousins, as well as the Noodle up to 46 cm, and didn't
>> like any; BUT -- here's the reason for my question: I may find that I
>> like or don't mind wider bars if properly high and close; and it's for
>> this that I'm seeking others' thoughts.
>>
>> I have a favorite "bend" at the hips when I ride the hoods and hooks
>> (which my current setups give me) and I'd like to keep that but -- as
>> I said -- with more slow speed control on sketchy sections. My brother
>> has fallen into one of the local irrigation ditches and I want to
>> avoid that fate!
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 1:23 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>> >
>> > Cross posting because, while the iBob is the bigger list, the RBW list
>> > is the home of high-bar afficionados.
>> >
>> > This is at the moment only an inquiry, but I wonder if I can get a
>> > better compromise bar setup on my Matthews 1:1 to maintain comfortable
>> > pavement cruising but gain more slow-speed, narrow-trail, sandy-soil
>> > control.
>> >
>> > Right now I have what for me is a wide-ish bar, a RH Maes Parallel 42
>> > cm at hoods and 44 cm at ends set about 5-7 mm below saddle with 10 cm
>> > stem; this compares with 38 cm MPs 3 cm below saddle with 8 cm stems
>> > for my road bikes. All give me me very comfortable pavement positions,
>> > with the wider, slightly higher and wider 42/44/10 cm giving a
>> > slightly more upright position on dirt.
>> >
>> > Is there any way I can maintain a comfortable pavement/hardpack
>> > cruising position with a higher and wider bar that will give me better
>> > slow speed control on narrow, bumpy, soft singletrack? I don't ride
>> > technical stuff except, but I do encounter not infrequent narrow,
>> > bumpy sections of acequia trails bordered closely by fences and trees
>> > on one side and 4' dropoffs into ditches on the other side, often
>> > eroded and crossed by tree roots.
>> >
>> > I think of wider and closer for better slow speed control on the
>> > hoods, with a sufficiently deep hook to allow a comfortable hard
>> > surface cruising position. I've tried many -- at least half a dozen,
>> > from the original WTBs to more modern, wider wide flared dirt drop
>> > bars up to about 660 mm wide, and never liked them, even when
>> > positioned higher than road bars, but perhaps I've not tried high
>> > enough.
>> >
>> > I repeat: I have repeatedly found very wide setups uncomfortable.
>> >
>> > I may be asking for incompatible setups, but does anyone have any ideas 
>> on this?
>> >
>> > I'd like to stick to drops.
>> >
>> > --
>> >
>> > ---
>> > Patrick Moore
>> > Alburquerque, Nuevo 

Re: [RBW] Platy front derailleur with Riv wide-low double (39x28)?

[KenP]

  Tom,
  in DC area bike coops Phoenix or Velocity have used parts. They sell 
old parts inexpensively.  You go and look through their bin.
  But I had trouble with a front triple myself.  Even after going to a 
shop.   Then I bought an  FD off Ebay that was spec'ed for 30 39 52. 
Finally bending it down to match the profile of the large ring helped.  
And  I took a strong grinder to the back part of the cage so it would go 
closer to the big ring .  The steel is quite tough.Crank is  30, 38, 
52.   For your double with experimenting You can probably make whatever you 
find work. 
Ken

On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 2:26:03 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:

> Tom
> Google
> IRD sub compact fr derailleur .Numerous bike shops sell them.
> I love mine.
>
> On Tue, May 25, 2021, 7:27 AM Tom Wyland  wrote:
>
>> OK, I'm still struggling to find a FD.  I tried a Microsoft R9 and that 
>> didn't seem to work.  The local bike shop said 10 speed won't work with 9 
>> speed (which is all they had).  I'm running friction. 
>>
>> Leah was nice enough to show how her older Deore (9 speed triple 
>> mountain?) was set up. Has anyone purchased a FD that works for them?  I'm 
>> having a hard time with all of the different variations (on ebay) or the 
>> myriad of 10-speed triples new.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Tom
>>
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Converting 650b Hilsen to Rene Herse 42/26 cranks

[KenP]

Hi Doug,
My Appaloosa needed a much longer bottom bracket.
RH shipped me a 121 & LBS had me return the BB because it needed to be 
even longer.  The RH crank has a different feel because of the Q factor.  
It puts the legs closer together.  It weighs about the same.  Advantages 
that you customize it with the rings you want, a longer/shorter crank arm, 
finish color, etc.  The rings have a different bolt pattern than the XD2. I 
switched front derailleur  and  I switched to a RH crank from XD2 and am 
satisfied.  I had been having trouble with the XD2 having the chain drop 
between the rings.  Riv's own new crank might be nice as well if they have 
them available.
Ken
On Sunday, May 2, 2021 at 3:53:47 PM UTC-4 Doug Williams wrote:

> I have a 58cm 650b A. Homer Hilsen that I purchased from Riv in 2014. I 
> have been loving it ever since! It has the Sugino Triple Crank 46-36-24 and 
> I run it all friction shifting with bar end silvers, 8 speed with a 11-32 
> cassette. The front derailer is Shimano Claris Triple. The bottom bracket 
> is  bbc110.
>
> So...I'm getting older and I notice I don't use the 46 ring much, at least 
> not with the higher gears in the back. I am definitely an "UnRacer" anyway. 
> I am thinking of getting the Rene Herse double cranks with 42-26 rings. If 
> I go with the 8 speed megarange 11-34 cassette in the back, I would give up 
> almost nothing in the lower gears and lose just some high gears that I 
> rarely use anyway. So two questions:
>
> 1. Is my bottom bracket compatible with the Rene Herse cranks? I think so, 
> but I'm not sure. Would now be a good time to replace it anyway?
>
> 2. Should I just keep my Claris triple FD and crank in the limit screw or 
> go with something like the Shimano CX70 or some other double FD that works 
> well with compact 42-26 rings?
>
> Any other comments or suggestions would be welcome.
>
> Doug
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Mouseproof handlebar bag

[KenP]

I've never had a mouse in my bike bags, but it's like wearing a helmet. You 
wear it even though you never got a broken skull.Maybe don't keep the 
bags outside.  Speaking of helmets, I did have a mouse make a nest in a 
helmet over one winter.   
So, the the helmets go inside now.  Did any one say get a cat?  Once my cat 
watched a mouse munch on his dry cat food,  and the sad cat looked at me 
and said Meow.  Might help to get a Rodini, though.  That head badge might 
do the trick.
Cheers
KenP
On Sunday, April 11, 2021 at 11:42:02 PM UTC-4 Drw wrote:

> I'm looking for a medium capacity handlebar bag with a few specific 
> requirements. 
>
> -rackless/decaleurless
> -larger than the little tube barrel style bags
> -uses a zipper or multi roll closure 
>
> The last requirement is on account that the bike gets left in a rural shed 
> and any bags with flap openings, like a carradice, become mouse nests 
> really fast (also if anyone knows how to keep mice out of nesting in lawn 
> mowers, that would be great intel).
>
> Id have bought the velo orange mini rando bag but its sold out. Open to 
> something bigger too, like a roadrunner jammer. Would like to keep it under 
> 100$
>
> I have a honey brooks conquest, green guru triangle bag, soma osprey 
> handlebars if a trade is of any interest. Also happy to pay. 
>
> email is  Dr ewbeck meyer @gmail.com
> Drew. Los angeles.
>

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[RBW] Re: Increasing Spring Tension - Rear Derailleur

[KenP]

I changed my derailler to one of the newer Shimano shadow; it has a clutch 
switch, but I leave said switch off and it still provides more wrap and 
tension than my older derrailler.   It's not rapid rise thouigh.  I'm 
running 30 34 52 in front and 11-28 in back. 9 speed.
KenP
On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 8:05:15 AM UTC-4 J Schwartz wrote:

> Greetings
> I have a couple of older long cage Deore LX, 9-speed Rapid Rise rear 
> derailleurs in great shape on 2 bikes.
>
> RD-M580 SGS
>
> Given the longer chainstays and hence longer chain on my Appa, I'm 
> thinking it may be advisable to try to increase the spring tension on one 
> of them.
>
> I take the bike off-road a lot and there's a lot of slap.  I could change 
> up components but I want to try this first.
>
> It's my understanding the spring tension can be increased by placing the 
> spring end into a different hole in the derailleur cage.
>
> However, from my limited internet research on this, it appears that this 
> particular derailleur may only provide 1 hole and therefore no 
> adjustability.
>
> There's not a lot of info on the Shimano site for this mech.
>
> So, I'm coming to the group before taking the derailleur apart.
>
> Does anyone know if that particular derailleur allows spring tension to be 
> increased?
>
> Thank you
> J Schwartz
>

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[RBW] Re: question re Brooks leather bar tape

[KenP]

Yes, nice tape.  I bought from ebay, then when I tried to wrap it broke at 
the seams;  lengths were joined together somewhere in the middle.   That 
must have been a bad roll. Too expensive to keep trying.  So, I bought 
another set from bike shop.  Let them put it on.  I like that it feels 
comfortable and matches my saddle.  Make sure you like the bars and the 
color first.  I wrapped different  bars myself with success after watching 
a bunch of youtube videos.  There are so many ways.  Hope you enjoy the 
tape.
KenP

On Sunday, March 7, 2021 at 9:03:48 AM UTC-5 Marc Irwin wrote:

> I felt the same way when I bought Brooks tape.  I even felt silly buying 
> it on a markdown.  But it lasts and lasts and still looks and feels great 
> 15 years later.
>
> Marc
>
>
> On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 9:30:11 PM UTC-5 Jim S. wrote:
>
>> So I splurged and bought this fancy, pricey bar tape. I'm embarrassed to 
>> admit what I paid for it, but now I've got it. Does anyone have any 
>> experience with it? That is, do I install it the same way I install 
>> Newbaum's, or is there some special method for this stuff? 
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any thoughts. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ideas for very unobtrusive and very QR saddlebag mounting system for non-Brooks saddles

[KenP]

Has anyopne mentioned one of the quick release behind the seat packs from 
this site:

https://kgear.eogear.com/collections/cycling-bags



On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 6:11:50 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> With my grocery bike currently away from home, I've been using my stripped 
> down gofast with Camper Longflap strapped directly to saddle rails. This is 
> not a heart-rending or earth shaking need, but it would be nice to have 
> some sort of -- I guess -- saddle-mounted or seatpost-mounted QR with which 
> I could swap quickly back and forth between a Camper or say a large 
> Saddlesack, and a small, Banana Bag-sized kit carrier -- or, for that 
> matter, the Ruthworks wedge I now have.
>
> I *do not* want a large clamp like the SQR bracket (I have several of 
> those) or even the Nitto QR mount, nor do I want something to clutter up a 
> wedge, though I certainly don't mind somewhat bulky hardware attached to a 
> large saddlebag.
>
> And I do have a stash of the VO saddle bag loops.
>
> I know that Carradice makes this: 
> https://www.carradice.co.uk/products/saddle-fixing-systems/carradice-classic-saddlebag-rack,
>  
> and I daresay one could rig it up with the VO loops, but they claim a 13 lb 
> limit and I'd like at least 20 lbs' capacity.
>
> Oh, and my bar is too narrow for full Camper or medium Sackville fitment.
>
> And I don't want to use a huge courier bag or backpack.
>
> Ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Widest wide range double chainring setup? How wide is too wide?

[KenP]

  Our Local bike shop recommended the"microSHIFT FD-R732-F Braze-on 3 x 10 
speed Road Bike 52-39-30T Front Derailleur" 
on Ebay to shift wide range gearing on my new front crank from Rene Hearse 
on the Appaloosa. Thank goodness it worked.  Glad to see this thread for 
other solutions as well.

Ken

On Saturday, March 14, 2020 at 1:22:36 PM UTC-4, Pancake wrote:
>
> Thanks to recommendations on this list (and from looking at Analog's 
> article 
> )
>  
> I ended up with:
> 46/30 front rings on Velo Orange double crankset with Shimano RX100 
> derailleur
> 11-40t sunrace cassette 9 speed with Shimano XT long cage derailleur (the 
> LX also worked)
>
> *Huge range (exactly the same as my prior 46/36/24 triple and 11-34t 
> cassette*), normal and widely available derailleurs/cassette, and similar 
> cranksets can be found for less than $100 (though not at pretty as this 
> shiny VO model that's not available anymore). 
>
> When cross chained small front, small rear, there's a chain rub on the 
> teeth of the large chainring which some .6mm spacers will eventually 
> correct, but for now it doesn't happen that I'm ever cross chained that way 
> so no problem!
>
> Abe "in a valley where he wants range for flats and hills"
>
> On Friday, March 13, 2020 at 11:41:37 AM UTC-7, James / Analog Cycles 
> wrote:
>>
>> We've run 46/20 with a 12-36 out back with fine success.  Middleburn lets 
>> you run a 110 big ring, no middle ring and 58 bcd granny gear for said 
>> combo.  Friction shifts fine with TA rings.  The resulting gear range is 
>> super wide.  690% gear range.  
>>
>> -James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Fifth Season Canvas / 
>> Discord Components
>>
>> On Friday, March 5, 2010 at 5:38:42 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm running Ritchey/Sugino cranks on my Hillborne and another set
>>> waiting for me to pay off my Bombadil.  These are 94/58mm bolt circle
>>> cranks.  I love them and would but 5 more sets in 172.5 if I could.
>>> They both came with 22/32/42 chainrings.  I am running the Hilborne
>>> right now as a wider range triple:  22/34/46.  The cranks that are
>>> going on to the Bombadil were last used as a double on a cyclocross
>>> bike and worked great with a 30/44 with Campy ergo brifters.  I'm
>>> wondering what's the biggest jump on a double you've run.  Kevens
>>> dream Bomba has a 24/40, for 16t of jump.  34/50 is standard on
>>> compact road cranks nowadays.  I'm thinking of trying a 46/29 on these
>>> Ritchey arms.  I've never run TA or TA-style cranks that I think allow
>>> even more flexibility.  Has anyone ever run a 20+ tooth jump between
>>> two chainrings?
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Walking boots -- not entirely unrelated to cycling

[KenP]

My dad bought several Redwings many years ago, and they lasted his whole 
life; so, I recently ordered a pair with my fingers crossed about the fit.  
I got lucky that way because they fit--I wear an 8 1/2 wide. They're the 
Oxford style. They are sturdy and heavy, and will probably last until I'm 
90.

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 5:26:39 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> This conversation has made it clear that I know very little about what 
> makes a good boot, a good work boot, or a good hiking or walking boot. To 
> ask one more question: Can anyone recommend a site, preferably not a mfr's 
> site, that analyzes the qualities of a good walking boot or shoe -- a sort 
> of "Hiking Boots for Dummies"?
>
> As to barefoot: sorry, not for me, but as Garth wisely said, I walk 
> barefoot in my socks and boots. But I recall reading, long ago, a lengthy 
> feature by a US journalist "embedding" (what a weird term!) with the 
> mujehaddin fighting the Reds in Afghanistan. This man, a youthful 30 or 40 
> something, ran 10 miles a day at home, but found it difficult to keep up 
> with Afghan peasants walking for 8 or 12 hours straight over steep, rocky, 
> ungroomed mountain paths in sandals home-made from old tire scraps. In 
> particular, I recall the anecdote about a middle aged peasant who'd walked 
> a round-trip total of 48 or 72 hours in tire sandals just so he could bring 
> home 200 grams of cheap tea and 500 grams of coarse sugar. And when people 
> hear that I ride 7 or 8 miles to church in damp weather (as this morning), 
> they are impressed. We are indeed a perverse and effete generation. (Except 
> for The Deacon.)
>
> On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:31 PM Drw > 
> wrote:
>
>> I guess mostly In the outsole material and the lack of any sort of 
>> insole. I’m sure anyone could do almost whatever they need to in 
>> redwings...They are super solid boots. 
>>
>> That said there are other great boots made more specifically for walking 
>> and hiking. I have 3 pairs of redwings, but If I had to go on a hike, I’d 
>> take hiking boots. If I had to go on a long walk, Id take something 
>> something different. 
>>
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>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Aero Albatross

[KenP]

Peter White sells a Nitto lamp holder that puts a cross bar in front of the 
albatross bars.  In addition to holding the headlight it gives a little 
extra space to put the hands on each side.  
Ken,
Alexandria, VA

On Tuesday, December 3, 2019 at 5:07:35 PM UTC-5, A. Douglas M. wrote:
>
> Has anyone had any luck putting aero extensions into albatross bars? I 
> love my upright position 80% of the time, but on long hauls I sometimes 
> like to lean into it and spin. Grips just forward of the bend would help 
> immensely with this. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> Aaron in El Paso
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Swapping Inner Chainrings on VBC Crank

[KenP]

Yes, I'm no wizzard at this, but found it to be the easiest to change 
because it has its own set of bolts  while the bigger rings both have to 
come off at the same time.  The inner chainring has to be small enough to 
clear the chainstay.  My inner rings are not ramped and pinned either.  

On Monday, January 28, 2019 at 4:25:18 PM UTC-5, Call Me Jay wrote:
>
> Has anyone swapped the inner chainring depending upon their seasonal or 
> event needs? Any issues with marking/beusage, set-up or shifting?  

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[RBW] Re: Riv-ish Rides near UNC Chapel Hill

[KenP]

Hi Tony,
   You might find something in this web 
site: https://www.ncdot.gov/travel-maps/maps/Pages/bike-routes.aspx.
Ken P.

On Wednesday, October 17, 2018 at 5:50:13 PM UTC-4, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> I'm going to be in Chapel Hill for a 5 day class next week, never been to 
> the area and I'm not positive how much free time I'll have but I plan on 
> bringing a bike.  Any locals care to chime in with a great before or after 
> work (<20 mile) ride idea?
>
> Thanks!
> Tony
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell All Rounder ridden less than 10 times!

[KenP]

Cyclofiend web has an image of the specs for the early bikes: 
http://cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/gen1/rivcat05_framespecs.jpg

On Tuesday, October 2, 2018 at 11:26:40 AM UTC-4, kevin spicher wrote:
>
> I will continue to post all requested measurements I receive via email.
> 20 3/4" from center of crank bolt to top of top tube. 
> I think this is the most this bike has ever been measured. :-)
>
> On Monday, October 1, 2018 at 8:46:35 AM UTC-7, kevin spicher wrote:
>>
>> 21 1/2" TTL from center of head tube to center of seat tube.
>>
>> On Sunday, September 30, 2018 at 10:32:22 AM UTC-7, kevin spicher wrote:
>>>
>>> Rivendell All Rounder ridden less than 10 times. Bought in 1997 (I 
>>> think, could have been 1998)
>>>
>>> This is my wifes bike, she is 5'7" 32" inseam.
>>>
>>> I'm selling it for her because she is not interested in riding it and 
>>> she would like to sell it.
>>>
>>>
>>> Will ship if buyer pays shipping, and details how and where bike is to 
>>> be shipped from (specific bike shop etc.)
>>>
>>> Bike is located in Phoenix AZ
>>>
>>> $1500.00 or best offer.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Problem with Roadinis?

[KenP]

Hi,
   Would 27 inch wheels work, like on the road bikes from the '80s?
Ken Peyton

On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 10:28:37 AM UTC-4, Alan H wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Looking for some feedback from folks here about the orange Roadinis.
>
> Last week I placed an order for one of the new orange Roadinis in a size 
> 50 (thanks to my darned 80 cm pbh). After a week without any news from Riv 
> (and having my cc charged), I called to find out when the bike would ship. 
> I was told that they had received a lot of orders and were running a light 
> crew because of Interbike and that my bike would pack and ship yesterday 
> (Friday).
>
> Yesterday I got a call from Vince saying that there was a problem. He told 
> me that the brake bridge on the orange Roadini frames was in the wrong 
> place and that standard road brake calipers wouldn't work. While he told me 
> the frame would work with longer pull brakes (like Tektros or Pauls), 
> frames with the correct brake bridge wouldn't be back in until December.
>
> Needless to say I'm a little disappointed and frustrated, especially since 
> I logged on here today and saw folks talking about their new orange 
> Roadinis. Has anyone else gotten a similar story from Riv? 
>
> On a related topic, since I'm apparently not getting a Roadini, does 
> anyone have experience with Soma's road frames? In particular I like the 
> look of the Stanyan 
>  in pearl 
> white. It has a geometry similar to their ES model and is a fully lugged 
> steel frame at a very attractive price point. The Roadini was obviously my 
> first choice, but I wonder how the Soma stacks up in terms of build and 
> ride qualities.
>
> Thanks in advance for you input!
>
> -Alan
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Shimming middle chainring of sugino XD2 for 10 speed chain?

[KenP]

I had a shifting problem with an XD2; I wanted larger chainrings.  Then the 
chain was dropping between rings.  I tried different rings of different 
brands; The ramped and pinned rings worked better.  Next, Riv sent me some 
small aluminum shims. Plus, I had some shims off another crank. I measured 
them with a micrometer to use all matching thickness; Finally, problem 
completely solved.
Ken P.,Alexandria,Va

  
On Wednesday, August 29, 2018 at 9:58:35 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>
> Riv has said that these cranks aren't 10 speed compatible and others have 
> said it's because the xd2 spider spaces the rings a bit too wide for 10 
> speed setups (either the narrower chain falls into the gap between rings or 
> an indexed FD doesn't push the chain sideways enough to make the shift, or 
> both.)
>
> If I wanted to run the xd2 as a compact double (42/28), do you think using 
> thin washers to shim the middle ring in closer to the granny ring would 
> prevent those 10 speed compatibility issues? I'd leave the outer ring off 
> or get a chain guard.
>
> I ask because I have a bike with 10 speed indexing in need of a new crank 
> and I just found a pair of xd2s in the coop parts bin for $10.
>
> Pete
> Arlington, VA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[KenP]

Hi, 
 Does anyone have any evidence that color makes a difference in 
safety?  Brighter colors=safer colors?  There was a study of motorcycle 
helmets, and the white ones have been shown to be more visible.  Lady 
pulled out in front of me a while back, she stopped and apologized said she 
did not see me.  I was wearing dark clothes; it was early, I had lights, 
That bike is green.  Does any one feel safer in silver or orange or blue?
KenP

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 11:30:55 AM UTC-4, John W wrote:
>
> I’ve been thinking a lot about safety, and about what it means to 
> “underbike” in the city, in the name of keeping oneself purposely at 
> lower-than-average speeds and maximally visible to pedestrians and cars. 
>
> Naturally, most of this is in the hands of the cyclist. The best safety is 
> defensive cycling. 
>
> That said, as I consider a Riv purchase within the next year, I’m 
> centering my decision of the frame and build kit around what would make for 
> an enjoyable cycling experience in the city while also reinforcing the 
> thought of, “Hey: slow down, be seen, be slow. Ride your bike, but don’t be 
> a cyclist.” 
>
> Yes, this is an indulgence. But if anyone who overthought this as much as 
> I’m doing, I’d welcome suggestions or thoughts of what worked for you. I’m 
> ruling out single speeds due to cranky knees. But gearing and handlebar 
> choices are in play. So, too are frames. I’m thinking either a Sam or 
> Atlantis might fit the bill. 
>
> I know I could strap a cinderblock to my bike. That sure would slow me 
> down. But this is all about creating a fun bike that’s purpose built for 
> this task. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[KenP]

I put drop bars, TRP levers, Dirt Drop stem, Shimano Cantilever brakes, and 
wide tires on my Appaloosa.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/9730557@N07/26791611818/in/dateposted-public/

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 3:42:59 PM UTC-5, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have not seen (m)any photos of Appaloosas with a drop bar. I wanted to 
> do something new this spring, and my wallet did not want me to get a new 
> bike, so I put on some drops.
> I had tried this a few years ago with my Sam, and it never felt great, so 
> I got a shorter stem this time (7cm vs 9cm). Then I put yellow Newbaum's on 
> with a light coat of clear shellac. Spring time!
>
> One thing I don't love is that I got the absolute tallest V Brakes I could 
> find when I bought this, and those tall V Brakes need the absolute most 
> cable pull... and the tektro v brake levers for drop bars bottom out. They 
> stop the bike, but no room to spare! Any ideas on how to pull more cable 
> save for getting those pulley add on things? I was thinking of trying 
> another washer on the inside of the arm to put the tops of the arms a 
> little further apart. Will that make a difference?
>
> Photos 
> 
>
> I would love to see pictures any other drop bar Appaloosas.
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Re: New Chain Too Short?

[KenP]

update: Yesterday the chain broke where I had connected it; so, from now on 
I will be using a quicklink to connect chains.  Thanks you for this 
thread... Ken P., Alexandria, Va.


On Tuesday, February 6, 2018 at 7:32:13 PM UTC-5, KenP wrote:
>
> I put 125 links on my Appaloosa 9 speed chain; put a 52 ring in the front 
> and 34 big ring on the back.  Works, but it's tight if I run big/big.  
>  Bike shop says if I put too many links, the derailleur will be too loose 
> and will scrape the chain.   I used a chain tool, to piece together the 
> chain and pushed the pin back and forth a few times to be sure the link 
> would swivel freely. It's using only one master link.  Works fine.  Ken P.
>
> On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 8:41:12 AM UTC-5, Tim Bantham wrote:
>>
>> I am in the process of building up my Sam and I ran into a frustrating 
>> snag with a brand new chain. Using the Sheldon Browne method for sizing a 
>> chain I put the chain on big/big without the rear der. and found that the 
>> chain was one or two links short. The gearing is 48 front and 34 on the 
>> rear cassette. I was surprised (and frustrated that a brand new KMC x9 
>> chain out of the box is too short. I had to add links for my Appaloosa 
>> which of course has the super long chainstay but I didn't think it would be 
>> needed on the Sam. I can add a link or two and then join the extra links by 
>> implementing two quicklinks instead of just one. To me it doesn't seam like 
>> it's correct to have two quick links with only one or two links between 
>> them.  Has anyone else encountered a chain that was two short out of the 
>> box on a Sam or other Riv with a fairly typical chain stay length? Does it 
>> create a weakness in the chain if I have two quick links so close to each 
>> other?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Chain Too Short?

[KenP]

I put 125 links on my Appaloosa 9 speed chain; put a 52 ring in the front 
and 34 big ring on the back.  Works, but it's tight if I run big/big.  
 Bike shop says if I put too many links, the derailleur will be too loose 
and will scrape the chain.   I used a chain tool, to piece together the 
chain and pushed the pin back and forth a few times to be sure the link 
would swivel freely. It's using only one master link.  Works fine.  Ken P.

On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 8:41:12 AM UTC-5, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> I am in the process of building up my Sam and I ran into a frustrating 
> snag with a brand new chain. Using the Sheldon Browne method for sizing a 
> chain I put the chain on big/big without the rear der. and found that the 
> chain was one or two links short. The gearing is 48 front and 34 on the 
> rear cassette. I was surprised (and frustrated that a brand new KMC x9 
> chain out of the box is too short. I had to add links for my Appaloosa 
> which of course has the super long chainstay but I didn't think it would be 
> needed on the Sam. I can add a link or two and then join the extra links by 
> implementing two quicklinks instead of just one. To me it doesn't seam like 
> it's correct to have two quick links with only one or two links between 
> them.  Has anyone else encountered a chain that was two short out of the 
> box on a Sam or other Riv with a fairly typical chain stay length? Does it 
> create a weakness in the chain if I have two quick links so close to each 
> other?
>

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[RBW] Did you stop using Compass tires?

[KenP]

I just got a pair of 650b Swichbacks which fit great.  I’ll revisit this thread 
at summer’s end.
Ken

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[RBW] Re: Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

[KenP]

I recked a road bike a few years back and a shop streaghtened the fork blades.  
Bike still leaned. Careful inspection the fork tube that goes into head tube 
was bent.  I discarded the bike. 

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[RBW] Re: Head Badge

[KenP]

 The headbadge on my Appaloosa was attached loosely with double-backed foam 
tape.  The curvature of the headbadge was a little wavy contributing to the 
looseness of the badge which bumped off without any damage to the paint or 
the badge. Just a gentle tug and it was off.   Rivendell sent me some 
double-backed automotive tape that was too thin to fill the waviness gap 
between the badge and the headtube. I found some clear and thick Gorilla 
brand double-sided indoor/outdoor  mounting tape from the local hardware 
store, then attached it to the badge, trimmed the excess, and after 
cleaning and measuring where to put it back on the bike, attached it to the 
headtube and taped it in place with masking tape for a day.  I had cleaned 
the badge and headtube with Coleman camp fuel.
 If ever the badge needs to come off, fishing-line or dental-floss would 
probably do the trick.
  The headbadges on earlier Rivendells I have owned were attached more 
firmly--one by glue and another by screws, and would have been difficult to 
take off for a repaint.

On Tuesday, January 2, 2018 at 8:07:54 PM UTC-5, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> If you have removed a head bage from a Sam how did you do it and did it 
> remove any paint? I might want to put a different one on. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: How to mount B tail light on this rack?

[KenP]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/9730557@N07/32373000565/in/dateposted-public/

I had a local shop braze in an aluminum plate

On Saturday, December 30, 2017 at 7:14:46 PM UTC-5, Ash [who works to bike] 
wrote:
>
> I recently replaced my rack with the one that came with Burley Piccolo kid 
> trailer.  The trailer system is wonderful, except, the rack has no option 
> to mount a light (picture attached).
>
> What option exist, if I'd want to still use my B dyno tail light?
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 46cm appa clearance

[KenP]

I have 51 Appaloosa and 42MM tires and fenders with lots of space, so, I 
think  ca. 46mm size would fit.  WTB has a 650BX47 tire.  For a wider tire, 
Riv suggested trying  wider fenders, by cutting out the fenders near the 
chain stay and around the front fork crown.

On Wednesday, November 8, 2017 at 4:48:01 AM UTC-5, Sky Coulter wrote:
>
> Looking to buy one soon for my wife. Just wondering if anyone who owns one 
> has fendered a rat trap pass w reasonable clearance? I’m trying to decide 
> what tires to build around.  I’d be happy w anything 40-50mm ish. 
>
> Thanks, 
>
> Sky in new west 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Lost & found anything while riding?

[KenP]

I left my keys in the lock one time and lost them for ever. So, I switched 
to a combination lock.  On the other hand, when I dropped pants straps and 
gloves I found them on the trail the next day.   Now I wonder if I see 
someone eles' things on the trail, I leave them hoping they find it. 

On Saturday, October 28, 2017 at 3:14:38 PM UTC-4, Conway Bennett wrote:
>
> I'm all but positive I lost all of my keys on my way to work yesterday. 
>  Has anyone here ever had success finding stuff you've lost while riding? 
>  I already posted in the local CL bicycles section and checked the 
> chainlink forum.

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[RBW] Re: New (old) bike day? An Eroica bike

[KenP]

Hi Bill,
Nice N+1!   My 1984 LaTour came with Symantec shifters like yours.  I 
like the way they trim, though they took some getting used to and some 
finesse getting them adjusted.  The rear shifter loosens up when the front 
gets shifted to the smaller ring.   I sourced a Riv Nitto Dirt Drop and had 
a machine shop turn the stem to fit the smaller headset.   I was used to 
upright bars, but the higher drop bar position inspired me to try drop bars 
on the Appaloosa and found that that arrangement works for me.  Took the 
Appaloosa on the Seagull Century comfortably all the way.

here are links to pics; I havent posted pics to the list before, do these 
work?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/9730557@N07/37767382712/in/dateposted-public/


https://www.flickr.com/photos/9730557@N07/37083284313/in/dateposted-public/

KenP

On Wednesday, October 18, 2017 at 3:51:16 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>
> There's a category and a classification for everything in the bike 
> industry now, making it really easy for an N+1 guy like me to invent new 
> slots in the stable that need (NEED!) to be filled.  The latest for me is 
> an Eroica bike.  An Eroica bike is an old road bike, kept period correct, 
> for use in Eroica events.  Reviews of these events are glowingly positive, 
> mainly for the social aspects of them.  I'm a social guy, so if I can get 
> another bike, and use that as my admission fee to a fun social event, I'm 
> in!  
>
> I found for myself a 1983 Univega Gran Premio.  There are many many little 
> reasons why this particular bike appealed to me, and I was able to get an 
> OK price on it.  It came in last night, and it was in such great shape that 
> I was able to overhaul and service everything I wanted to overhaul and 
> service and render it completely road ready.  So, here's new bike day:
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UIHQW4K9swY/Weevzxb7bZI/Dpc/Dqgx25WookoN-YwgHpVQ8aR6Y5OD17nggCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2220.JPG>
>
> Riv content:
>
>
> --I upgraded to Riv Rolly Polly tires
>
> --lugged steel
>
> --Eroica celebrates beausage over restorations, particularly repaints
>
> --great, legendary Suntour, SR and DiaCompe parts
>
> --once I finalize stem length, I'll re-do the bars with Newbaums
>
>
> I have not ruled out trying to get 200 miles in on this bike before 
> October ends, which would be bike #11 in my 10x200 challenge. 
>
> I have not yet signed up for Eroica California 2018, but I think I might
>
>
> Bill Lindsay
>
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: 2017 Seagull Century

[KenP]

I've taken my Saluki a couple of times; the All Rounder once, and I plan to 
take the new-to-me Appaloosa this year;  My wife and I have taken the 
Raleigh Tandem four times.  A few of those trips were in wind and rain.  
Assateague is amazing. I usually see a Riv or two, but mostly riders rush 
by on carbon bikes.  It  takes us about 10 hours.  

On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 8:20:15 PM UTC-4, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> I'm not going on it this year. I did it in 2013 (Sam) 2014 (Sam) and 2016 
> (Rambouillet). Fun!  2015 was cancelled due to double whammy 
> noreaster/hurricane weather, iirc.
>
>  Is this your first time? 
>

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[RBW] 2017 Seagull Century

[KenP]

It looks like we'll have good weather this year.  Anyone planning to 
attend? 

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[RBW] Re: Saluki Links

[KenP]

Hi John,
   I had an early 50 canti Saluki, but found it too small; then sold it and 
got a 54 sidepull Saluki;  My pbh 79.5; the 54 fits better.  I liked the 
cantilever brakes better though because they stopped better and opened 
easier. And I like the 650B wheel size.  However these days I'm beginning 
to like bikes with wider tires for the local trails.   
Ken, 
Virginia

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 6:28:16 PM UTC-4, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Does any one have any links to the RBW literature on the early 
> Saluki's???  looking at the 54cm on Seattle CL, since it is my size.
>
> I know the Saluki's transformed into the 650B AHHs, but there seems to be 
> subtle differences.
>
> I thought there were links on Cyclofiend's site, but have not located them
>
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>

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[RBW] Re: seeking Rivendell Saluki reviews...and maybe a lead

[KenP]

Hi Matt,
   I have a 53 Rivendell All Rounder with 26inch wheels, which is like an 
Atlantis, and a 54 650B Saluki. I like both.  The Saluki feels taller and 
steadier and lighter.  The All Rounder feels more sluggish but quick in the 
turns, and stronger and takes wider tires with fenders.  Lately I have been 
commuting with the All Rounder because there is a steep road with lots of 
potholes, patches, and speed bumps.  I have taken the Saluki on long trips 
on the GAP trail and the C Canal; It has racks and lots of bottle cages 
and it is perfect for those trips. One thing: get the right size, because I 
bought one of the first Salukies in a size 50 and even though I rode it 
comfortably for two years, I eventually traded for the 54 which fit me much 
better.  Hope you find your size.
Ken

On Sunday, April 2, 2017 at 7:10:53 PM UTC-4, Matt Beecher wrote:
>
> I cannot get a Rivendell Saluki out of my mind.  I've been watching 
> craigslist nationwide and Ebay, but have never seen any come up for sale 
> since I missed out on that purple one last year.  Were very few made, or 
> are they so cherished that they never go up for sale?  
>
> I've got an Atlantis and feel like I should be perfectly happy with that, 
> as they seem very similar in intentions.  For those that have had both, can 
> you give me any feedback on comparisons?  Am I nuts for wanting both?  (I 
> already have far more bikes than I should.)
>
> While on the topic, does anyone know of a 60cm cantilever Saluki that is 
> for sale?
>
> Thanks,
> Matt Beecher
> Oswego, IL
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross bar slipping

[KenP]

Second to that careful with the torque warning.  Once I stripped the 
threads inside the stem.  The fix was to re-tap the hole and install a 
helical thread spring.  Problem solved.  So, a slightly slipping bar could 
be better than a broken one. Also if something smacks the bar, it slips 
instead of breaking.  A tiny tiny slip might be Okay.

Ken P.

On Wednesday, March 1, 2017 at 10:51:57 AM UTC-5, CMR wrote:

> Thanks all, I will try greasing the threads
>

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[RBW] Re: Multi Use Path Etiquette

[KenP]

A while back there was a discussion on using bear bells; jingle bells. Try 
a cowbell?  It constantly announces presence.  That seems to help with some 
of trail denizens..

On Tuesday, December 27, 2016 at 8:33:06 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>
> Do you think it's ok, when riding on the path, if you can pass a 
> walker/runner/family, safely with 3 feet to spare, to go by without 
> warning? That means not saying "on your left" or something else, or not 
> ringing your bell if you have one. I ask because I was riding my Roadeo 
> today (50 degrees here in KC!) and it doesn't have a bell yet. A bell is my 
> much preferred method of warning that I'm there. But I find that many 
> people are startled by a bell just as much as "on your left." Or they have 
> earbuds in and don't here you. Also, my experience with "on your left" is 
> that 50% of the people who hear that, move to their left. I ALWAYS ride 
> with the knowledge that pedestrians have the right of way, NO MATTER WHAT. 
> I give a wide berth to others, really slow down when there's a family, and 
> try to smile and be friendly. But the more I think about it, it really 
> seems to me that a warning of any type only works with about half of the 
> people out there. On the other hand, I passed a woman one day without 
> warning her, she was on the far right and I was on the far left, at least 5 
> feet away, and she was pretty nasty about letting me know she didn't like 
> it. So sometimes it seems like you just can't win. What do you all think?

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[RBW] Re: HubbaHubbah HubbaHubbah HubbaHubbah HubbaHubbah HubbaHubbah

[KenP]

Hi,
   We tandem on local paved bike paths and canal towpath and usually choose 
the level rides.  Some rides we have gone up a few short steep hills.  It's 
a light mountain tandem with wide range gearing.  The lower gearing is more 
important because it is harder to go up a hill than down more so on a 
tandem. Going up, she wants to go faster, so I say "pedal harder"  And 
going back down if I push too hard I get screams that it's too fast!  We 
fell only once going too fast on a turn and got double the scrapes and half 
the egos.  She's always glad to get back on fortunately. Rear is 11-32 
Shimano 9 speed; Front tripple 28, 38, 48 (I think, I'll have to look again 
at the front).  Indexed shifting, which sometimes sticks because of the 
long cables that can get rubbed unexpectedly.
Ken P.

On Sunday, December 18, 2016 at 10:24:24 PM UTC-5, Alex Wirth- Owner, 
Yellow Haus Bicycles wrote:
>
> Any other listers want to chime in on drivetrain choices for their 
> upcoming HubbaHubbah tandem?
>
> I'm on the fence with my chainring choices...
>

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[RBW] Re: What are you hauling?

[KenP]

Thanks for posting the picture.  Last picture I saw it had upright bars. 
 You changed to the drop bars; it looks great.  How does your Knobby 
Alger-ego Hunq compare?  Load that up even more, or, is that one saved for 
the wilderness?


On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 8:51:40 PM UTC-5, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> I feel like there was a thread for this a while back but maybe I'm 
> thinking of a pickup truck related forum so what did you haul today?!?
>
> My Saluki made easy work of a short ride w/ 15lbs of dog food, a dozen 
> eggs up front and 4 1 liter diet cokes in the sackville (best rear bag 
> ever!).
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Your bike ride better with upright bars than drops?

[KenP]

   This depends on how one uses the bicycle.  I have been using Albatros 
bars on my Saluki with a big tall motorcycle style mirror on the left side 
and sitting upright for commuting in traffic, however, last year I picked 
up a LeTour and experimented with the drop bars.  This bicycle is lighter 
and much faster on the paved Mount Vernon trail.  The original drop bars 
felt too low, too close, and too narrow.  So I bought a Dirt Drop from Riv. 
to raise the bars higher.  Then took the stem to a machine shop to mill 
down the quill so it fits the smaller headset, picked up lighter, wider 44 
cm. bars.  Finally it felt comfortable.  I find watching out for traffic 
harder to look around when I'm in the drops, but glad to have the wider bar 
for handroom at the top of the bars so I can sit up occasionally.  I like 
the old style brake interrupter levers to slow down without having to move 
back into the drops.
   Has anyone compared the LeTour with the Rodeo?  I think the LeTour might 
have a longer top tube and more clearance for the fenders with the 25 cm. 
tires.

Ken P.

On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 8:39:54 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> And I mean upright...boscos, albatross.
>
> Wondering how your bike felt when you went from drops to upright riding.
>
> *"Better", as in, became easier to pedal down the road. More lively. Less 
> draggy.*
>

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[RBW] Anyone doing Seagull Century Saturday in Maryland?

[KenP]

Yes though I'll take  a silver LeT our.  Fingers crossed it's dry.  Ken P.

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[RBW] Which saddle for the Riv tandem?

[KenP]

My wife settled on a wide soft springy Cloud on our tandem. Heavy and happy...

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[RBW] Re: What size A. Homer Hilsen should I get, 54 or 56?

[KenP]

I once made a mistake and got a Saluki too small (50).  I have a 79.5 PBH. 
 I went personally to RBW and tested some sizes and changed to a 54.  The 
standover gives me acceptable clearance.  If you can standover the larger 
size you might prefer it. Can you test one?  You are just a little bit 
taller than I am and you would have enough standover in the 54 for sure.
Ken

On Wednesday, August 10, 2016 at 11:02:07 PM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:
>
> Yes, I have contacted Riv on this but I am leery of their suggestion as it 
> puts me on a bike that is smaller than I have ridden and this information 
> contradicts their own charts on the website.
>
> 81 cm PBH
> 71 cm Saddle height
>
> The chart on this page  
> would suggest a 55 or 56 (for 650 wheelset), yet I was told a 54 cm would 
> fit better. My inclination by looking at the geometry charts would be a 56. 
>
> What bothers me about the 54 is the amount of seat post that will be 
> showing. I dislike a lot of post showing. 
>
> Here is a photo 
> 
>  
> of a 54 with a 70 cm saddle height and for my tastes, too much post is 
> showing. My post would be 1 cm. higher and more of it showing because I 
> would use a shallower saddle.
>
> For those who have a 54 or 56 what is your PBH and or saddle height? What 
> would you suggest?
>
> For the record I own a 52 cm Sam Hilborne. It is built as a 
> commuter/picnic bike. Full fenders, front rack, basket, rear rack Albatross 
> bars, Brooks B67, dynamo, Schwalbe Marathons and kickstand. The Hilsen 
> would be a bare bones bike with Map/Ahearne bars, Hetre's etc. I have 
> everything for this build but I just don''t have a frame yet. This is going 
> to be my non-commuter bike.  
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
>
> Thomas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Stop, Swap and Save 2016

[KenP]

Thanks for the nice pictures. I went too and  bought a Riv cap and the 
Reader from Gravel and Grind; Frederick is an equally long drive, but it 
would be nice to visit and test ride James' Hunq which is a size 51.  Glad 
to know you two went.  Cheers, Ken

On Sunday, February 14, 2016 at 4:33:06 PM UTC-5, WETH wrote:
>
> Group member Steve (islaysteve) invited me to join him in attending the 
> Stop, Swap and Save in Westminster, MD.  The organizers describe it as the 
> largest indoor swap meet and bicycle expo on the East Coast: 
> http://www.stopswapandsave.com
>
> We left the DC area this morning about 7:30am and arrived in Westminster 
> with plenty of time for the 9am start.  Temperatures were 11* F as we 
> waited in line.  
>
> Inside the Carroll County Ag Center it was true bike geekery!  I loved 
> it!!  I am hard pressed to imagine new and vintage bike parts and gear not 
> available for sale.  
>
> A highlight for me was meeting James, a co-owner of Gravel & Grind, an 
> authorized Rivendell dealer in Frederick, MD.  They had the beautiful Red 
> Atlantis (that was shared in a recent post) on display along with a 
> Hunqapillar, a Clem, and a gorgeous black, double toptube Sam!  It was 
> wonderful to see these bikes in person-photos: 
> https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157662336106174. They also 
> had an assortment of Riv bags and hats.  Of course they also had coffee. 
>  The black Sam Hillborne is stunningly beautiful in person!
>
> Other highlights were the Bob Jackson and 1954 Holdsworth Sirocco 
> frames-photos here: 
> https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157662336106174
> Fortunately for my wallet, they were too big for me.
>
> I didn't buy much, but I enjoyed taking in so much bike goodness.  I 
> appreciate Steve letting me tag along.
>
> All the best,
> Erl
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: OT slightly: DCBR: DC Bike Ride May 22, 2016

[KenP]

I'm looking forward to it; Hope to see some fellow Riv riders.  Plan to 
bring the Saluki.

On Wednesday, February 3, 2016 at 1:04:57 PM UTC-5, WETH wrote:
>
> http://dcbikeride.com/?utm_source=WABA_medium=email_campaign=WABA
>
> http://www.waba.org/blog/2016/02/announcing-dc-bike-ride-lets-celebrate-life-on-two-wheels/
>
> This organized ride seems similar to the former BikeDC event organized by 
> WABA.  
> This ride is a 17 mile car free experience around the mall, through 
> Georgetown, and out toward the Pentagon.   
> It would be fun to get a group together if others are interested.
> -Erl
>

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[RBW] Re: Saluki - Dog Trailers?

[KenP]

Um, does anyone carry a saluki with a Saluki?  :)

On Tuesday, June 2, 2015 at 10:12:43 AM UTC-4, rasterdogs wrote:

 I'm exploring the use of a dog trailer so I can take our new pup to work 
 with me.  

 I'll use my Saluki if I do this.

 I'm interested of others have experience towing trailers with their Riv's. 
 I'm thinking a Doggyride trailer looks like a good choice.

 Thanks,
 JimD


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[RBW] Re: (OT) ADVICE FOR NEWLY WEDS WITH TANDEM BICYCLE and how to stay married

[KenP]

Try to always communicate what's coming up, if there's a bump call it. 
 If you're coming to a stop say it. It took some getting used to because 
riding in the back you have to give up a certain sense of control to the 
captain.   We enjoy our aluminum Raleigh.  It's a mid priced bike lighter 
than the one we went quite a few years with-- a heavier Schwinn Twin, and 
enjoyed it, but appreciate the lighter weight and more gears these days. 
 It took a bit of exchanging of parts to get the fit and to get used to the 
captain's front tube where the Schwinn had a step through front.  When 
taking a trip be sure the trip is short enough to be fun for both riders. 
 We've enjoyed the Seagull Century several times, and the Six Pillars 
Century a few times too, including this year which was great.  We actually 
saw someone on a Rivendell on the Cambridge Six Pillars.  He said he 
doesn't follow this group.  Anyone know him?  He had a brown basket in 
front, and a dog.  Said the dog hasn't volunteered to pedal yet.  Ha ha... 
  Someday Rivendell will make a tandem???

 

On Friday, May 8, 2015 at 6:11:49 PM UTC-4, Jon Dukeman in the foothills of 
Colorado wrote:

 True with some humor! 
 You want your experience to be fun for both of you. Otherwise your tandem 
  might end up in the garage getting dusty or worse yet..looking for another 
 stoker.

 Rule #1: The stoker  (person in back) pedals and the Captain ( person in 
 front) steers the bike.

 Communicate! Communicate! Communicate!

 ***Do not stop peddling without notifying your partner first. Unannounced 
 sudden pedal stops can get pretty annoying to the person giving his or her 
 all to the effort ..then you lockup the crank arms..
 Announce :Left Turn orRight turn.  One rider leaning one way and the 
 other rider leaning the other doesn't make for a smooth turn.

 When you want to stop or  approach an intersection announce  Red Light or 
 stopping the stoker may not be paying attention.
 If you have clip-in pedals or not... when stopped for a light or stop sign 
 the stoker usually stays 'clipped in' or feet on the pedals and the captain 
 puts his foot out to balance the bike and the stoker.Then when the Captain 
 pushes off to get going the stoker is already on the pedals and can help 
 with the take off.
  You don't want to let her fall over with feet on the pedals.This is a 
 trust and confidence builder for sure .Practice! Practice!

 A tandem allows two people with different physical abilities or fitness 
 levels ride together. Don't assume that just because you can pedal 60 RPM 
 uphill for X minutes that your partner can also. Time will even out fitness 
 levels
 Install a mirror on the stokers handle bar so she can look back for 
 traffic while you concentrate on the potholes ahead.The mirror can also be 
 used so she can touchup her make-up just before reaching your destination 
 .:)

 If you have cantilevers front and rear plus a rear disk brake she might 
 like controlling the disk. Makes it more interesting for her..Again 
 communicate when using the rear disk.It allows for a shorter cable too. A 
 earlier style  Mtn index shift lever works good for operating the disk 
 brake.*THE STOKER MUST NEVER OPERATE THE DISK BRAKE UNLESS THE CAPTAIN 
 ASKS FOR IT! Both of you applying too much brake can be dangerous.*

 If the stoker starts complaining that she is doing all the work.refer 
 to Rule # 1.( Smiling)
 Just a little humor.
 It's  been raining all week and a bit bored today.Snow Sunday! 70s 
 Wednesday 





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[RBW] Re: Solvent tank for drivetrain cleaning

[KenP]

Has anyone thought of using an old crockpot to soak parts in?

On Tuesday, February 24, 2015 at 1:35:22 PM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Does anyone have a solvent tank for drivetrain parts cleaning?  That seems 
 like the ultimate solution for cleaning greasy parts.  It would be nice to 
 have two chains and just leave one in there all the time.

 The drawbacks are, potential fumes in an enclosed area and they're 
 expensive.

 I found this one on Amazon but it's $205...

 http://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Pressure-Cleaner-Solvent-Electric/dp/B0029443HG

 Plus 20 gallons of solvent, may put this in the category of maybe someday

 I also do some work on my cars though and it would be nice to have for 
 that as well.  So maybe the dual use will justify it ;)

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!
  

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[RBW] Re: Splats question

[KenP]

How about get a roll of velcro and cut a piece long enough to wrap around 
foot?

On Monday, October 20, 2014 8:33:57 PM UTC-4, Beth H wrote:

 I boug a pair of Splats when they first came out almost three years ago. I 
 wear shoes without a raised heel -- usually Chrome Kursks because they-so 
 comfortable.
 I have noticed that, even though I'm careful to remove the splats at my 
 destination, I still am wearing out the strap that goes underneath my foot.
 Has anyone else experienced this?  Is there a good fix that will keep me 
 from having to buy another pair right away? I don't own an industrial 
 sewing machine so lower-ech solutions are sought. I LOVE these and want to 
 keep them going before buying replacements.
 Beth in pdx, where the rain has returned for the season

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[RBW] Re: Oxford UK/Cotswolds Bicycle Shop/Attractions

[KenP]

Brooks has a small shop and display in London that you might find 
interesting.  

On Wednesday, October 8, 2014 9:38:20 AM UTC-4, David Hays wrote:

 Jeannie and I are off for London/Oxford and the Cotswolds tomorrow for 
 nine days.
 If anybody has any suggestions of things Rivendell related I shouldn't 
 miss I would appreciate it.
 Thanks.
 David Hays
 Kenmore, NewYork


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Re: [RBW] Dyno light recommendation

[KenP]

That's a nice set up.  Where does the RM clamp come from?  Also, have you 
experimented  using the Luxos with a battery instead of the hub generator?

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 8:22:56 AM UTC-4, doc wrote:

 I have a Luxos U on my LHT, mounted off the handlebars using an RM 
 clamp.  The USB plug is strapped to the stem.  The placement works well for 
 lighting things up, and the unit is as robust as any other dynamo light 
 I've used.
  
 http://gspiess.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/dscn1600.jpg?w=300h=225
  

 On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 11:21:07 PM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:

 Manny, how is the Luxos U for trail rides? How is it for durability? 
 Can you attach it to a handlebar? Can you charge an iPhone with it? 

 On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 8:19 PM, Manuel Acosta 
 manueljo...@hotmail.com wrote: 
  Ds. 
  I have the fancy luxco b. With usb charging thing. 
  
  So far great light bright no thinking.  I haven't broken it yet. If 
 your in alameda area you can always try it out. 
  
  Manny 
  
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 -- 
 -- Anne Paulson 

 It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 



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[RBW] Re: 14 Sep - DC Area Atlantis Ride

[KenP]

Thank you, Tony, for organizing the ride.  Clever to bring Atlanti to the 
Navy  Marine memorial. Nice to match faces with names too.  Nice group 
ride.  Ken
 

On Sunday, September 8, 2013 8:45:05 AM UTC-4, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 We talked about it a couple weeks ago, hopefully it still works for a 
 casual meet up and ride!  Here is what I'm thinking but I'm open to 
 suggestions,

 Date: Saturday, 14 Sep
 Time: 0900 meet up
 Place: Navy-Merchant Marine Memorial (
 http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Navy_%E2%80%93_Merchant_Marine_Memorial)
 Route:  'Arlington Loop, clockwise' (Google map to come tonight, but 
 basically it's the MV-4 mile run-WOD-Custis-MV)
 Long range weather: 72 deg, partly cloudy

 Maybe we grab lunch and some college football afterwards!  Oh and it's not 
 an Atlantis exclusive event... That was just the start of the discussion as 
 I was looking for a smaller Atlantis to try out.

 Let me know if you want suggestions for car parking or directions to the 
 memorial. Hope to see you Saturday!

 Tony



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[RBW] Re: Albas...steel or aluminum? Please help me decide...

[KenP]

I have both on different bicycles.  The weight or material is all the same 
to me, but the steel one is wider and feels better that way.
 
 
On Tuesday, June 4, 2013 6:16:52 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 There is another thread on here from a year ago that didn't answer the 
 question.
  
 The stock builds come with steel. I am sure they are fantastic.
 I have read a complaint about the aluminum version being too flexy.
  
 Any votes here? What are you using and how does it feel to you?
 Thanks for the advice.


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[RBW] Re: Replacement chainrings

[KenP]

One can find chainrings from TandemsEast in Pittsgrove NJ; They might 
still carry some uncommon sizes 

On Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:53:47 PM UTC-4, Arthur Lewy wrote:

 I run a 44t outer on my XD double which needs replacing and RBW no longer 
 carries them.  Recommendations for sources?  Has anyone tried a Surly steel 
 chainring for 2x or 3x use? I wonder how front shifting would work.  Thx 
 all in advance. 

 Art Lewy 
 Seattle 
 Green Ramb 




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[RBW] Re: Installing Cork grips for bar ends tip needed please...

[KenP]

You can practice with rubber grips.  To get them off, fill up a small 
portable air tank at the service station, get an air hose with a rubber 
nozzle, slip it under the rubber grip and blast it off when you want to 
change to cork.

On Wednesday, May 22, 2013 5:02:55 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

 I just wanna do a temp install without glueing them on til I determine the 
 right stem length.
  
 Possible? Or will they not stay on themselves without glue?
 Will they not come back off easily like a rubber bar end does with alcohol?
  
 If not, I'll just pad and tape wrap the bars until I know I got a keeper 
 stem.


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[RBW] Re: Crank Length Question

[KenP]

I've tried 3 sizes of Riv's Sugino cranks on my 54cm Saluki. The 65 the 
72.? and the 75?  And yes, it does lower the seat.  The pedalling 
difference can be felt.  The smallest feels like rolling a ball of string, 
the longest like rowing.  I settled with the middle size.  I also changed 
the chainrings to larger ones (30, 40 something, 53) which slows down my 
cadence.  For me slower is better because my right knee pops when it 
bends. I found the bike size makes a big difference too, my first Saluki 
was a too small 50cm because I measured myself wrong.  I use my tip toes or 
stand to the side or on the curb at traffic lights.  

On Monday, April 29, 2013 6:43:52 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:

 So I have been putting more and more miles on the Bombadil and its an 
 awesome ride but I am having an issue riding in Brooklyn traffic. I keep 
 having to put my foot down at lights and don't want to dismount the saddle 
 every time since the 56cm size has the TT right there.  Would going to 
 180mm cranks let me drop the saddle a bit and therefore be able to put my 
 foot a bit lower or am I just crazy? Ideally I would have something like a 
 Gomez but with the tubes and clearance that the Bombadil does. So outside 
 of saving my pennies for a custom I was thinking this would be some sort of 
 a solution, I know it wont be much but even being able to put my foot down 
 a bit more without overextending my hamstring would be great. Ebay has 
 these here cranks but they seem a bit overpriced  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sugino-Crank-Set-Old-School-BMX-Bike-180-mm-110-BCD-Polished-Alloy-/281037783536?_trksid=p2050601.m2372_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D207%26meid%3D7313463647018136641%26pid%3D100085%26prg%3D1112%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D281037783536%26%26clkid%3D7313464623718577442_qi=RTM1303752
  but 
 I don't see a lot of 180mm or longer cranks for sale unless I am looking in 
 the wrong place. Any help would be appreciated. 

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[RBW] Re: Recomendations?

[KenP]

About the airpump hose and chuck: My airpump hoses wore out on some old 
pumps, so, I saved the chuck and the metal fitting at the other end that 
goes into the pump,  got some air hose from the auto parts store and a 
couple of small band clamps, and presto, back in business
Ken Peyton
 
 

On Wednesday, September 12, 2012 7:12:22 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 1. Cheapest *decent* hanging scale with capacity of at least 40 lb. I know 
 Park makes an electric one for $60, but I would be quite happy with a 
 mechanical model if cheaper. (I want to find out how heavy my Fargo is.) 
 (Seriously, I like to weigh my grocery loads -- just 'cause.)

 2. Prest-cum-Schrader replacement pump chuck. In a fit of 
 brass-and-Silca-lust folly I cut the very decent one-chuck-for-both head 
 off my pump to replace with a nice (looking) brass screw on Schraeder chuck 
 that I thought might work better on my daughter's Schrader valves -- which 
 it does, but screwing on the chuck is a royal arse pain especially when I 
 have to use a Presta adaptor for my own bikes.

 3. Bar tape. I've found my own current favorite but am curious what others 
 think. I like the Lizard Skins 2.5 (I think it is also made in 1.8 and a 
 thicker one whose measurement I don't have).

 4. Grocery pannier. Here I have certain criteria to meet:
 - Easy on and off the rack.
 - Can be used singly or as a pair.
 - Secure on the rack
 - Holds a full-to-top paper grocery sack.
 - Has either a cover that will accomodate overflow, or else has loops to 
 which one can attach a cargo net.
 - It is easy to insert a bulging-ly full grocery sack. (This criterion 
 puts my otherwise wonderful Ortlieb Packers out of the running because of 
 the (for this use) fiddly and obstructive flap and drawstrings.)
 - Universal fit on many different kinds of rack. 
 - Stiffener on back if not on sides (all-cloth panniers tend in my 
 experience to end up in the spokes with certain simpler racks).

 Of course, cost and durability are part of the equation. 

 No Wald baskets! No saddlebags! Saddlebags, even the huge Hoss, don't hold 
 enough, so I prefer panniers which I can mix and match as required. I 
 realize that the easiest and capacious grocery carrier in the universe is a 
 huge Wald Newsboy, but I don't have a bike that I'd care to add one of 
 these to.

 I've used several different sorts of camping panniers, many different 
 commuting panniers, Avenir grocery panniers (currently in use), Gnashbar 
 grocery pannier, Axiom Dutch (style) boxy panniers, rear Wald baskets (too 
 damn' narrow!), Carradice panniers and just about all Brooks and many other 
 saddlebags out there. I want something that is pretty much designed for 
 full paper grocery sacks.

 For convenience, the Avenirs are good though they are not stiff enough to 
 be ideal. They are also too shallow and have no cover nor provision for a 
 cargo net. Good only for short trips and you have to make sure you don't 
 pack small, loose things on top. The folding arrangement is primitive, but 
 they do fold when not full, which is a plus.

 The Axioms, in stock form, sagged too much under any load  and the lip of 
 the opening deformed under weight. I had to rivet a collar of aluminum 
 strip around the mouths to stiffen them. Thus modified they are much better 
 but the mouths are still a bit too narrow for easy insertion and removal of 
 very full bags.

 Frankly, when cost is a large factor, I've used nothing more convenient 
 than the drape-over-rack pair of Target kitchen trashcans that I joined 
 with pop rivets, dowels and nylon webbing. Wider at top, deep, so that it 
 is easy to insert and securely carry even an overflowing bag. Certainly 
 sturdy enough if you reinforce all weight-bearing points with big washers 
 or thin plywood or sheet metal. Easy on and off, since they drape, and a 
 single toe strap holds them securely fore-and-aft. And the total cost 
 (trashcans on sale) was no more than $12. IMO, these are better than milk 
 crates or used cat litter boxes. You can also plaster all sorts of 
 reflective material on the backs and even bolt blinkies permanently to them.

 Their big defect of course is that they look ineffably dorky. But I can 
 see a plastic (not kitchen white!) bin-type pannier optimally sized and 
 shaped, suitably reinforced at stress points, and with adjustable, QR 
 mounting system a la Carradice or Ortlieb, and cargo net top -- does anyone 
 make anything like this? 

 Patrick Riv + luggage Moore

 -- 
 Believe nothing until it has been officially denied.
-- Claude Cockburn

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -
  

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Re: [RBW] Re: East Coast Rivendells - DC NoVa

[KenP]

Hi, I'm sometimes on an orange Saluki on Gravely Point and Mount Vernon 
trail by R. National Air Port.  I passed someone with a double top tube 
near there last month. Was that someone on this group? KP

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[RBW] Re: Anyone Regret Selling a Bike?

[KenP]

Had to sell a Saluki because it was too small and needed space at home.  
Got a new Saluki of the correct size.  Here's what I regret: selling the 
fist one for much less than what it was worth.

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[RBW] Re: Replacement buckle for Country Bag

[KenP]

Tandy Leather catalog or web site?

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[RBW] Re: Winter bike trails in northern Virginia

[KenP]

Hi,
   I've commuted to DC from Alexandria in very cold dry weather without a 
problem.  Just had to bundle in layers, especially the hands and feet.  Put 
vinyl gloves under.  And shoe covers over the running shoes.  Rode in 
show few times.  Once was scarry because the breaks were slipping.
Cheers
Ken P.

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[RBW] Seagull century, Salisbury, MD

[KenP]

It's Saturday.  Usually see some Rivendells.

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