I switched mine so the (cable) disc is the main brake. If 650B rim brake
rims are going to go extinct, I don't see any point in wearing one out, and
the back of a tandem takes a lot of the braking load. I think you could
replace lots of discs and pads for the price of rebuilding the wheel. The
I may be more likely than most group members to use cheap and inelegant
solutions. I would look for a reflector bracket that goes on the fork under
the headset nut. They used to be used to take the place of the headset
washer and often served as an unsuitably flexy cable housing stop. If a big
Steven, the list members seem to have a hard time following instructions.
Don't build your own wheels.
I have built two sets of wheels using the bikes as truing stands with blue
masking tape across the seat stays/fork as a guide. Make sharpie marks on
the tape as needed, and flip the wheels. I
Ben, there are lots of different points of view about riding. Nobody's
right or wrong. I would only worry about cross chaining if it was noisy and
bothering me. I would cruise up hills that are unlikely to need the small
ring by just shifting the back. If I thought I would need the small ring,
The Bear Fire is to the north and the Creek Fire is to the south. Neither
is close enough to be a concern for our safety. They shut off our power
around midnight on Monday. We have a generator so we can keep the well
going and power most of the house, but it can't run the AC. The smoke is
Are you absolutely sure the cable is slipping? Does it always move in the
same direction? (Gets harder to pedal for traditional rear derailleur.)
Never happens in index mode? Skipping on worn cogs with a newer chain can
seem like a shifting problem especially if it's on the larger cogs and
P-clamps are fine for loads that push/pull along the wide dimension of the
clamp--usually up/down and front/back. They will eventually fail under
loads that flex the clamps in the skinny dimension--usually side to side,
vibration, and heavy loads. They should be fine for a long time with pizza
I put them on my road bike after rejecting drops one last time. I very
rarely ride the hoods, occasionally use the swept position to relax, mostly
vary position along the hooks to change the angle of my wrists. I don't use
bar ends. See https://www.instagram.com/p/CBO2uXtsqt9/
I very much
You can't do this (attached) with Crazy Bars unless you have hinged brake
levers. The relaxed hand position is palms at about 45 degrees with thumbs
around the bar ends and heel of the hand on the handle bar. On sketchy
descents you have a standard straight bar with two finger braking. Shifting
Patrick has set (ok tied) a new record for drifting off topic--original post!
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Agree on the s-word. I try be flexible on these things though. When the day
comes that someone starts marketing brake pads as supple, I may be headed for
hermit land.
Carl
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I'm seeing a lot of mathematicians talking without any math. :-) So far, Paul's
comments square with my understanding and experience.
Excepting some of the dumbed down, no choices, 90s low profile Shimanos, I've
generally don't find cantis to lack stopping power, and even the worst are fine
Check out Crocs Swiftwater Mesh. I have previous version without drainage
holes. They are a tighter fit than most Crocs, but still very light and grippy.
Seem to be on sale everywhere.
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We encounter two common scenarios in the Sierra foothills.
1. Fires dispersed across CA and generally bad air quality. When this happens
the air doesn't usually smell like smoke, but it looks bad. I have to decide
whether to ride based on AQ data--unhealthful for... When I was a teen in LA
Regarding the nut, hex or otherwise. I've never needed to put a wrench on
it, but if it were spinning, I would. If you can get the bolt tight, it
works fine regardless of how the nut was restrained while tightening it. If
I worked in a bike shop, I'd hold the nut with a wrench to avoid putting
Maybe another way to say it: this is a modern Rivendell redesign of the
All-Rounder with long stays and swoop tube.
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Maybe I'm more sensitive to this than most due to my short torso, but this
looks like a new bike designed for widish tires and drops. Isn't that cause for
celebrating? Rivendell has plenty of long top tube bikes. I would probably
still wind up with Northroads or Albastache on this because I'm a
For cleaning, I mostly hose off the drivetrain after a dusty ride, bounce the
bike a few times and dry in the sun, and then wipe down the chain. Sometimes I
over lube and wipe.
When it's time to do a rare major cleaning, the chain goes in an old wide mouth
nalgene with Dawn dish soap and
Agreed on the long sleeve Merino base layers. I prefer the long sleeves to
wearing more sunscreen, and prefer them on the slightly loose side. Wool won't
stink, but it can build up a noticeable white salt layer on extended rides in
extreme heat--evidence that the wicking works. Lightweight
I enjoy the ambiguity of "...I've always felt a little bit closer to them, a
little fonder of them and interested in them, than my friends."
But will a platypus come to your funeral?
Carl
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You're welcome. Some of the older Sugino MTB triple cranks I still use have the
same issue. There's not a lot of extra space between the big ring and the crank
arm.
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If you're using friction, an older (mid to late 80s) fd may be the solution.
Before front indexing, the outer fd plates were pretty flat. eBay time...
Carl
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Seems like a 5' 8" sixth grader would be spending about two years on his next
bike. Looking for a particular bike is a pretty likely way to overpay or make
yourself miserable.
I'd be looking for off-premium sport touring with eyelets for racks.
Off-premium meaning not a canti touring, or for
There's been some anagram bashing on the "Fancy Cheviot" thread. I spent at
least 1 1/2 hours moving Scrabble tiles around while my wife and daughter
made pizza for dinner. Then I had to find a postcard and a stamp! I'm sure
others suffered similarly to come up with those anagrams, so it would
Creaks, usually on the downward pedal stroke of my stronger right leg:
usually the saddle (stand up to test), worst case (twice now) cracked drop
out. It's odd, but when you hear a noise timed to pedal cadence, the ear
points to the pedals, crank, bb regardless of where it's actually coming
I've been able to cut them with bolt cutters without having to mark the
stays and remove the fenders. For SKS, they get covered with the rubber
tips, so I don't file them. But if you use bolt cutters, please wear
glasses. I've had the cut ends shoot clear across the room.
Carl
On Tuesday,
This thread has drifted a bit from my perception of the Rivendell ethos. We
all have frustrations whether with vehicles or other road and trail users,
and I appreciate that the shelter in place measures are affecting more
urban people in very different ways than they are affecting me.
The
My oddly proportioned mid 80s Raleigh sport touring bike has its second
cracked dropout, so I'm looking into alternatives for fixing and/or
replacing it. This bike has 68 cm seat tube and 56 cm top tube, and it's
the only bike I can comfortably fit with drop bars. It serves as my road
bike; I
Forgot to take off the rear fender for the photo.
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To view
the Motherlode Bicycle Coalition
to encourage and facilitate biking of all types in our rural counties, and
that effort is pretty much 100% on hold. I've had a blog for years
describing local rides (Tuolumne Bikes), and while I've heard from many how
helpful it was to them, the MLBC had
I agree with Eric and with most of the comments in response about the value
of the local bags. It's great that the market meets so many needs. What I
have issue with is the contradiction between wanting to widen the scope of
biking past the stereotypes (roadie, etc) but then pushing
Duh, picture...
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 9:25:23 AM UTC-8, tuolumne bikes wrote:
>
> One of my Christmas presents. The blade locks closed as well as open, 6.5
> oz, and 7" blade. Much lighter than the Corona I was carrying on Forest
> rides. Cuts fine, we'll see about
One of my Christmas presents. The blade locks closed as well as open, 6.5
oz, and 7" blade. Much lighter than the Corona I was carrying on Forest
rides. Cuts fine, we'll see about longevity. Pretty much a must for
exploring in the Sierra these days with tree mortality and reduced road
The difference between the first bead and the second is that there's the
opposite bead and tube conspiring to push the second bead out of the groove.
Two suggestions.
1. After starting the second bead, stuff a length of 1/4 inch nylon tube
between the rim and bead to ensure the bead isn't
n the second photo?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> part-time Arnold,CA
>
> On Thursday, January 23, 2020 at 11:44:36 PM UTC-8, tuolumne bikes wrote:
>>
>> Here are a few from a ride today to try it with weight on the front--less
>> than 10 pounds. More photos on Instagram @tuolu
Sourdough pancake recipe attached. The pancakes are on the thin side and
far tastier than the norm, and making them includes feeding the starter. My
wife is a sourdough nut--crust, crumb, size of the holes, whole
wheat...always experimenting and rarely completely satisfied. It's all
great
Thanks Kevin. I'm long legs/short torso, so tall bike/short top tube/fattish
tires has been a need for a long time.
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Hi Robert,
My wife and I have the xl orange with green fork sample tandem--not necessarily
the most representative HHH. It came with Boscos front and rear and neither of
us liked them. I prefer a 45 degree swept bar to avoid the boxed in feel.
Unless you have an extremely long torso or run the
Emailed them. We'll see if it's gone before I can get there.
Carl, Columbia,CA
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Price reduced, $30 plus shipping.
On Monday, November 4, 2019 at 11:21:30 AM UTC-8, tuolumne bikes wrote:
>
> This is the exact rack in the photos for the Clem rack on the Rivendell
> website--green fork with orange headtube. It's cleaner now. One of the
> struts has been bent to
Also, since the valve stem takes up the channel, start removal and end
installation at the stem, so the bead can be in the channel.
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I went through this with the first tire changes on the Cliffhangers. The bead
really really really has to be in the center channel. I cut some 1/4 inch nylon
tubing into 1 1/2 inch lengths and put them in the bag with the spare tube.
Stick them between the bead and the rim at various spots
I lived at Big Basin in the late 1990s/early 2000s when my wife was a
ranger at the park. At that time it might have been thought pretty funny to
propose hosting an insanely successful (sold out second year!) bike event
on the legal to ride unpaved roads in the park and at Butano. It was all
Not about Rivendells, but I thought I'd share this due to several points of
general interest to the group--black and white film, bike community in
general, some cool history. It may be among the shortest rides reported on
this list. I didn't ride my Rivendell, because it's a tandem, and this
See https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/tioga.htm
for info and updates on not yet announced bikes only dates for Tioga Road.
Glacier Point is a 36 mile round trip out-and-back from Wawona Road. I
recall entry fee as $30/car from last year. Facilities along the road are
usually closed, so be
If you want to use the Blackburn Outposts to carry bottles, consider adding
nylon tubing to the areas where the cages contact the bottles. It will
reduce (not eliminate) how badly the bottles get scarred. Slit the tubing
lengthwise and slide on.
Wide Jandd velcro ankle straps are perfect
Added some parts to list, please let me know where to send them. They are
used, so I won't be offended if someone has new to contribute. I don't have
the adapter bracket from the brake--needed it for the new brake. Thanks,
Carl
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Have contemplated a scaled down event for the less conventional bike world--the
Be Odder Classic. The guy on the Schwinn would fit right in.
Carl, Columbia,CA
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The cheapskate way can have additional advantages, depending on your needs.
A cheap Android cell phone with an app like Backcountry Navigator or some
of the other apps previously mentioned will be much cheaper than a
dedicated handheld or bike GPS. It will usually have a much bigger
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