Where are the cheap ones?
On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 12:01:43 PM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:
> I had the same question about the front derailleur and the silver low-high
> 38-24 crank. It's my first build with a FD. The gist is to get a road
> double and mess around until it works? I have no
Neat Rich. Thanks all for sharing.
Perhaps a good use for old sharktoothed outer rings.
Yes I think I've heard of a "ring-in-vise, snap teeth with vise grips, file
finish" approach.
Not a bad plan B(BG) Patrick
-Matthew
On Sunday, April 11, 2021 at 4:47:47 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
> It's
It's fun to make your own bike parts, but just FYI: BB Bash Guard offers
nice looking guards in all sizes and shapes and colors for very little
money. I saw one just now for $12; I think mine is like that.
https://bbgbashguard.com
My brother has made his own from discarded rings, but he starts
Hacksawing off the teeth and then filing is best. You can always remount it
on the crank to the bike and have someone turn the crank while you hold the
file to the ring, creating a makeshift lathe. Using a dremel or
benchgrinder means potentially breathing in fine aluminum dust, which is
not
Hello Matthew,
Not sure if this is the most efficient method to create a DIY guard but so
far I'm happy with the effort. Here is a work in progress picture of the
guard. It started life as a 50 tooth Shimano 110bcd ring. My big (now
middle) ring has 46 teeth. Following is how the modification
Neat Rich! Same here. I'm giving the triple to double conversion a second
thought. I didn't like them before because I thought of them as a crippled
triple. But this thread has changed my mind. The toothless outer ring has
been referred to by multiple names with associated functions: bash guard
This thread has been of particular interest and help as I have never
performed a triple to a double with guard conversion. Currently putting the
finishing touches on a homemade chain guard (a rewarding effort so far).
The shared experiences here on derailer setup will be invaluable as I work
Ben, when you say "stuck" is the chain jamming and stopping the cranks, or
is it falling between the rings? If it's just a problem of the chain not
moving over far enough to hit the granny, you may be able to adjust the
indexing (or reposition the cable in the fixing bolt) to make that shift
Thanks Joe,
I think I'll try the chain first and see if that fixes it. Hopefully it
will, since my GF is not terribly interested in barcons or DT shifters (it
actually had barcons originally and I replaced those at her request with
the R9).
Ben
On Wednesday, April 7, 2021 at 1:59:23 PM UTC-7
I suggest using an FD for a road triple or a mountain triple (instead of a
road double) with the 38-24 cranks as those are just the middle and inner
chainrings the FD expects in a triple. The 105 is designed for a very large
outer ring (around 50-ish) in a compact double crankset (43.5mm
That could be the problem, or the chain is indeed too old. I think you
would need to ride it yourself to sort it out, but any indexing not
specifically designed for its groups chainrings is always a struggle. She'd
probably be better off with a friction thumbshifter or bar-end (depending
on
I've not ridden it, just shifted it in the bike stand, where it seems to
shift fine. On the bike stand it is obviously not under load, which is an
important point since it seems the chain is always getting stuck when she
is shifting under power.
The shifter is a Microshift R9, which is
Have you ridden the GF's bike to see what's going on with the shifting? Is
she using a friction shifter or index? If index, it may not work with what
crank.
On Wednesday, April 7, 2021 at 10:13:18 AM UTC-7 Ben Miller wrote:
> I have a converted Sugino hi/low a la Grant-style with a
I have a converted Sugino hi/low a la Grant-style with a bash-guard in
place of the outer ring. I briefly had it on one of my bikes, where it
worked fine, but just recently took it off and replaced my GF's triple with
it. On that drive train, it will frequently get stuck between the hi-low
I had to cut off the stop only because I perversely insisted on using an 8
or 9 speed-era road front der with a much later and 2-piece mountain bike
triple.
Without the stop, the derailleur will kick the chain over the bash guard
and off the crank entirely; the reason is that the derailleur has
I'm just talking about derailers, mate. Or derailleurs, your choice.
On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 12:59:09 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
> Oh man, when you said "mount it high" I tried to, but sort of lost
> interest half way through the project & called out for pizza.
>
>
>
> I'll be
Oh man, when you said "mount it high" I tried to, but sort of lost interest
half way through the project & called out for pizza.
I'll be here all week, try the veal.
On Tuesday, April 6, 2021 at 2:55:35 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
> When people (me) say "mount it high", it means high over
Patrick that looks great.
Nice coupling of the two arcs of the toothless outer ring/guard and the fd
cage.
Did you really have to hack off the stop, as in, backing out or removing
altogether the limit screw wasn't enough? I believe you regardless.
I'm slowly grasping a few things:
1. the fd
Yes, or as Patrick mentioned you can use any old (and cheap) Shimano mtb
triple. The 24-38 Silver cranks are a triple with the big ring replaced by
a smaller pant guard; if you mount the derailer in its normal position the
cage contours will hit the middle and granny rings in the right spot.
I have a 650B MIT Atlantis with a Rivendell Silver 38/24 crankset. I'm
running a Shimano CX70 front derailleur and it works perfectly well. I'm
using Rivendell XO friction shifters mounted on the stem on an IRD stem
shifter perch.
Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Monday, April 5, 2021 at
That's what I've done, with success. Again, I've only used friction setups,
so can't speak to indexing.
And again, and btw, I've also used another strategy: a mtb fd mounted
really high above the ring (ie, high enough to clear the stay). Seems to
work fine, perhaps because mtb fds have large
I had the same question about the front derailleur and the silver low-high
38-24 crank. It's my first build with a FD. The gist is to get a road
double and mess around until it works? I have no intention of spending $80
if a cheap one will work.
Tom
--
You received this message because
Save yourself the time and aggravation of trying to find the correct rd.
This one will.
https://www.interlocracing.com/shop/product/60110-ird-front-derailleur-sub-c-braze-on-2351?search=derailleur
Buy the bolt on mount and your done. Its not the cheapest option but it
works really well. Also
If you are really stuck, IRD makes a "Sub-C" front derailleur designed for
subcompact setups. From the picture, it appears to have a shorter cage
than usual. I cannot attest to its function or whether you need it, just
alerting you to its existence.
Jon Blum
On Thursday, April 1, 2021 at
i can't locate it right now, but somewhere in a blahg grant wrote in
reference to the ugliness of a front derailler, (probably the same XT
you're referring to),
"forgive it and move on."
i have a shim'd XT front on my suzie and try to remember this advice
whenever i idly find myself
My boss said that about me once.
On Thursday, April 1, 2021 at 2:37:24 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
> I'll just tell you the unfortunate truth now: I had that horrendous XT on
> something (it may be on the Bombadil I sold Jason Fuller) and it's magic. I
> remember sending a pic of it to Grant
I'll just tell you the unfortunate truth now: I had that horrendous XT on
something (it may be on the Bombadil I sold Jason Fuller) and it's magic. I
remember sending a pic of it to Grant after he had said something about
ugly/perfect Shimano parts and said, "It's almost alarming something this
I'll give this a shot tomorrow with the 105 and see what happens! The gap
between the cage on the derailer and the pantguard is about an inch, maybe
slightly more. I'm shifting with DuraAce bar ends, so it's friction. I
also have an ugly, ugly XT front derailer that would need some shims
What Patrick said because this is a common weirdness encountered with that
chainring setup. The original plan when Grant said goodbye to the big ring
on a triple was to run 24-38 without a derailer, you would put a stick down
there to move the chain or kick it or hop off and make the "shift".
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