Agreed. I should have written leading or front edge. Especially when
mounting tire wipers, they should go on the trailing (front) edge of the
fender, so they don't get sucked into the fender when bigger debris hits
them... I apologize for any confusion.
Jan Heine
Bicycle Quarterly
Time for one last correction. Debris hits the leading or _rear_ edge of the
fender and either must go through or be slow enough that it falls back onto
the road without collapsing the fender. Tire wipers are mounted on the
trailing or _front_ edge of the fender.
Sorry for the continued
Most of the classic French randonneur machines had very *generous* fender
clearances, and that, together with the wide, and thus stiff, fenders,
seems to be the reason why there are no reports of fender accidents.
Generally, more clearance is better. At some point, it doesn't look nice,
and
Not to nitpick, but my engineering background compels me to explain that
when looking at fender/wheel dynamics, the trailing edge would be,
counterintuitively, the front edge of the fender, not the rear edge.
Aerodynamically, trailing edge refers to the rear of an object going
through a wind
What is the fattest slick these wipers will fit?
Thanks,
John
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este - Jan Heine's photo
http://www.compasscycle.com/images/tires_wipers3.jpg
I've deflected sticks, rocks, piles of leaves and twigs, scraped mud - they
work great.. Was riding with some friends after a good summer monsoon
ran-off mud all over a paved city greenway that follows a creek
should have included this link
- http://www.compasscycle.com/tires_wipers_700.html
On Friday, October 17, 2014 5:53:40 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
este - Jan Heine's photo
http://www.compasscycle.com/images/tires_wipers3.jpg
I've deflected sticks, rocks, piles of leaves and twigs, scraped mud
The rule of thumb for metal fenders is tire size plus 18 mm as a minimum.
This allows 4 mm for each rolled edge and 10 mm of clearance. If you can
go somewhat bigger than that, you should. The added space gives you the
option of bigger tires in the future and reduces the chance of something
I think that is the rear tire, shot from the non-drive side of the bike.
You can see the chain in the backround.
On Friday, October 17, 2014 6:53:40 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
este - Jan Heine's photo
http://www.compasscycle.com/images/tires_wipers3.jpg
I've deflected sticks, rocks, piles of
I’ve read Jan’s article and various emails and comments about fender clearance,
but I haven’t seen anyone address the possibility that tight fender clearances
improve safety by helping to *exclude* objects from being caught between the
fender and tire. If I have 1cm of clearance (about a half
Brian, if you search tire savers images, you can see examples of them
mounted in both rotation directions. They work great this way, they eject
Everything except dust and water from the fenders, and there is no physical
way they could turn under the fender.
Regards
On Friday, October 17,
My rule is if they don't rub, they fit.
On Monday, October 13, 2014 11:46:09 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
1. How much clearance above tread, all around tire?
2. How much clearance from sides of tire (where the rolled edges envelope
sides of tire)?
3. Should I just get the widest fender that
Yes, that is on the front of the fender (the trailing edge). That would be
preferred to the leading edge (the rear), but the way the tire savers are
designed, if on the leading edge and something snags them, the rubber tubes
holding the scraper will just give and no jamming into the fender will
I think Eric's points are very well worth considering. The tighter
tolerances leave little room for error. If you load your bike in the back
of the car, there is a good chance that the fender will be knocked out of
your perfect line. If you are prepared to live with that tight tolerance
Thanks for the education. I had not seen them installed that way before.
Now, are you SURE they are installed correctly :-)?
On Friday, October 17, 2014 11:53:28 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
Brian, if you search tire savers images, you can see examples of them
mounted in both rotation directions.
all I know is they work
On Friday, October 17, 2014 7:54:07 PM UTC-5, Brian Campbell wrote:
Thanks for the education. I had not seen them installed that way before.
Now, are you SURE they are installed correctly :-)?
On Friday, October 17, 2014 11:53:28 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
Brian, if
Are your tire scrapers installed backwards? Can't they be forced under the
fender?
On Tuesday, October 14, 2014 8:05:10 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
here's the best safety option for Honjo fenders - tire wipers - Compass
sells them.
On Tuesday, October 14, 2014 12:23:37 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
And by the way...How come Honjo Hammered fenders for 650b prices swing
wildly from 80-something$/pair to almost 200$/pair?
Are there different levels of quality among Honjo 650b hammered
fenders? Special runs?
Be careful
here's the best safety option for Honjo fenders - tire wipers - Compass
sells them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP5280024.jpg
You can see them at the bottom of my fenders. They keep Everything except
dust and water out of the fenders - they even scrape
Anton, I bought my Honjos from Jitensa and even racking up stays and
fasteners, the bill was not excessive. If you totally want to cut the
cost, you can go with Tanaka fenders (who I'm guessing makes VO fenders).
On Tuesday, October 14, 2014 6:40:10 AM UTC-5, Anton Tutter wrote:
On
I'm keeping the Hetres.
But I want to try Cypress 32's just to see how they feel in comparison
(there is another thread of mine from a month or so ago about ponderings on
that, but now I'm talking fenders, not tires.).
If they feel just as good to me, then I might use them since I think they
And by the way...How come Honjo Hammered fenders for 650b prices swing
wildly from 80-something$/pair to almost 200$/pair?
Are there different levels of quality among Honjo 650b hammered
fenders? Special runs?
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