Re: [RE-wrenches] Outback 2024 FX

2011-12-17 Thread Tom Duffy
Drake

We have always seen used working product for selling retail for up to and 
around 2/3 of the original price

Kind regards
Tom Duffy
  Systems Design Engineer
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From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Drake
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2011 5:38 PM
To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Outback 2024 FX

A friend has a very early Outback 2024 FX that he is thinking about selling.  
It sat in the original box until last year.  When it came out, it was defective 
and went back to Outback for a rebuild.  After that, he maintained a battery 
bank with it for a short time, with no loads.

What is this unit worth?

Thanks,

Drake


Drake Chamberlin
ATHENS ELECTRIC LLC
OH License 44810
CO license 3773
NABCEP Certified PV
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Outback Breaker Problem

2011-12-17 Thread jay peltz
Hi Ray,

The only way I work on them with larger wire is with the breaker mounted in the 
mounting plate and the mounting plate screwed in, then I bring the wire pre 
bent/unstressed to the post.


Jay 

Peltz Power



Sent from my iPad

On Dec 16, 2011, at 9:14 PM, Ray Walters r...@solarray.com wrote:

 Hi Folks;
 
 Anybody else having trouble with the small Outback DC breakers snapping posts 
 off?  I just took over a GTB job from another reputable GT solar company, 
 after they twisted off a post on an 80 amp breaker with #4 wire.  I know 
 those are delicate breakers with low torque limits when tightening, so I took 
 over.   I dropped the breaker mounting plate, so that I could work on the 
 breakers, and then I saw how weak the posts looked, just bending the #4 wires 
 gently still cause another breaker post to stress, and then break.  I worked 
 as gently as I could, but I could not even get the plate back in position 
 without damage.
 In my opinion, those breakers are suspect with #6 wire, and they just can't 
 handle #4 or larger, unless maybe it was a flex type.
 The old medium body Heinemans  (125 amp) used to come in an 80 amp variety, 
 which was much sturdier.   Is there an adapter that would let me use that 
 type of breaker on the Flexware box?
 
 
 Ray Walters
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] DC power for LED lighting

2011-12-17 Thread Dan Fink

From: Dan Fink danbo...@gmail.com
To: Hugh Piggott h...@scoraigwind.co.uk
Cc: dan...@otherpower.com, RE-wrenches re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 08:59:58 -0700
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] DC power for LED lighting
Hullo Hugh;

Perhaps I could state it better,  that each string of series LEDs needs 
to have its own current limiting device (a resistor or regulator).


The reason I advise that is that all LEDs vary a bit in their 
volt/amp/lumen performance curves, especially between batches, but even 
within a batch.  If you were to put 2 identical LEDs in parallel 
sharing one current limiting resistor, one LED is *always* going to draw 
more current than the other and be brighter. If the difference is too 
great, the one drawing more current will burn out first. If you are 
lucky with your matching, it might not be problem for a very long time, 
but I've also seen burnout happen between batches in just a few minutes.


It's a positive feedback loop (thermal runaway). As an LED heats up, 
forward voltage drops and current increases.


So, by current limiting each string you avoid both the variable 
brightness problem and the thermal runaway problem.


This is a pretty good article on the topic:
http://www.ledsmagazine.com/features/4/8/1 
http://www.ledsmagazine.com/features/4/8/1


It's nice that we can all purchase decent LED lighting products these 
days and not muck about with breadboards and soldering irons like we had 
to a few years ago. A good inexpensive compromise is to regulate all the 
strings with a single DC power supply, then current limit each string 
with a resistor.


--
Dan Fink,
Executive Director;
Otherpower
Buckville Energy Consulting
Buckville Publications LLC
NABCEP / IREC accredited Continuing Education Providers
970.672.4342 tel:970.672.4342(voicemail)


On Fri, Dec 16, 2011 at 11:03 PM, Hugh Piggotth...@scoraigwind.co.uk 
mailto:h...@scoraigwind.co.ukwrote:


   H Dan,

   On 17 Dec 2011, at 00:02, Dan Fink wrote:

  parallel connections are BAD with LEDs, and the string with the
   most voltage will eventually fail first, so best practice is
   regulate every string.

   This statement puzzles me so I wonder if you could clarify it for
   me?  If you connect two strings of LEDs (or batteries) together in
   parallel then their voltage will be the same.  So how come you are
   talking about one having more voltage?

   If the answer is that it's absolutely impossible to make the
   connections and leads have the same resistance then this same logic
   applies to two strings that are connected each to its own regulated
   supply.  If a tiny difference in voltage matters (which I doubt)
   then you will have the same issues with a single string.

   What am I missing?

   thanks

   Hugh


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[RE-wrenches] Enphase J-box brackets

2011-12-17 Thread William Miller

Friends:

Enphase has changed the design of the brackets they provide to support a 
j-box.  This is a problem because the new ones are inferior for these 
reasons:
1. They do not have a hole adjacent to the back of a mounted box (to the 
best of our knowledge).  This hole allows for the use of the back hub in a 
standard bell box.
2. They can not be mounted offset (to see the benefits and application 
browse to:

http://millersolar.com/MillerSolar/practices/Technical_Procedures/micro-inverter_wiring/_micro-inverter-wiring.html
3. They do not accommodate one and two gang bell boxes.

I'd like to buy a quantity of these brackets.  A jpg depiction is 
attached.  Does anyone have surplus?


Does anyone else miss these enough to write Enphase and ask that they be 
reinstated into the catalog?


Thanks in advance.

William Miller


Miller Solar
Voice :805-438-5600
email: will...@millersolar.com
http://millersolar.com
License No. C-10-773985

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Enphase J-box brackets

2011-12-17 Thread JRQ
William,

I actually prefer to use Unirac L-brackets for mounting J-boxes. Sometimes I'll 
use the Enphase one because it comes with the Enphase whip (and therefore I 
save paying $2.75 on an extra L-bracket). However, I find the L-brackets to be 
sturdier and less visible.

Jeffrey Quackenbush
NABCEP-certified PV installer
Ninja Solar



 From: William Miller will...@millersolar.com
To: RE-wrenches re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org 
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2011 11:33 PM
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Enphase J-box brackets
 
Friends:

Enphase has changed the design of the brackets they provide to support a 
j-box.  This is a problem because the new ones are inferior for these reasons:
1. They do not have a hole adjacent to the back of a mounted box (to the best 
of our knowledge).  This hole allows for the use of the back hub in a standard 
bell box.
2. They can not be mounted offset (to see the benefits and application browse 
to:
http://millersolar.com/MillerSolar/practices/Technical_Procedures/micro-inverter_wiring/_micro-inverter-wiring.html
3. They do not accommodate one and two gang bell boxes.

I'd like to buy a quantity of these brackets.  A jpg depiction is attached.  
Does anyone have surplus?

Does anyone else miss these enough to write Enphase and ask that they be 
reinstated into the catalog?

Thanks in advance.

William Miller


Miller Solar
Voice :805-438-5600
email: will...@millersolar.com
http://millersolar.com
License No. C-10-773985

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Outback Breaker Problem

2011-12-17 Thread Ray Walters
The problem here is that the previous solar company used fairly long 
crimp lugs with heat shrink, which adds to the bending stress.
Also, its impossible to work in a Flex box with 2 inverters, 2 FM80s, 
and the new triple shunt flex meter, and not be moving those #4 wires 
around to say, land the 4/0 battery cables.
I personally think that UL dropped the ball and should not have let that 
flimsy mount pass, or it should be listed for flex cable only.  I did 
plenty of prebending, but there just is no such thing as unstressed, 
when landing a #4 or larger THHN.
Any other lug, in most other UL listed breaker boxes, is securely 
mounted.  When was the last time a lug snapped off in a Square D load 
center?  The breaker snaps out before it breaks.  Panel mounted breakers 
have to be sturdier than their snap in cousins, not less.
This is more than just an install PITA, it is a dangerous situation, as 
the wire that snaps off could be hot from the battery, or from the 
array.  I also think its possible that the breaker could break later 
after a few heat/ cool cycles, even if it didn't break initially .  
Loose, energized wires inside a load center seems like a very bad idea.
As Kent pointed out, as soon as the tab bends up, it's game over.  I was 
considering a zip tie to secure the cable to the breaker, but the bottom 
line is we shouldn't have to modify (and probably void the listing of) 
UL listed breakers in the field.  If I was doing something weird like 
landing a 1/0 cable, I could see it was my problem. But you can't put 
less than a #4 on an 80 amp breaker last time I checked, so the breaker 
should be able to hold a #4 with some normal bending and jostling that 
installations cause.


Ray

On 12/17/2011 8:39 AM, jay peltz wrote:

Hi Ray,

The only way I work on them with larger wire is with the breaker mounted in the 
mounting plate and the mounting plate screwed in, then I bring the wire pre 
bent/unstressed to the post.


Jay

Peltz Power



Sent from my iPad

On Dec 16, 2011, at 9:14 PM, Ray Waltersr...@solarray.com  wrote:


Hi Folks;

Anybody else having trouble with the small Outback DC breakers snapping posts 
off?  I just took over a GTB job from another reputable GT solar company, after 
they twisted off a post on an 80 amp breaker with #4 wire.  I know those are 
delicate breakers with low torque limits when tightening, so I took over.   I 
dropped the breaker mounting plate, so that I could work on the breakers, and 
then I saw how weak the posts looked, just bending the #4 wires gently still 
cause another breaker post to stress, and then break.  I worked as gently as I 
could, but I could not even get the plate back in position without damage.
In my opinion, those breakers are suspect with #6 wire, and they just can't 
handle #4 or larger, unless maybe it was a flex type.
The old medium body Heinemans  (125 amp) used to come in an 80 amp variety, 
which was much sturdier.   Is there an adapter that would let me use that type 
of breaker on the Flexware box?


Ray Walters





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