OK. I always get those mixed up. So, the shorted stub passes nothing
except the tuned frequency, right?
Joe M.
skipp025 wrote:
mch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
RG174 should still work, right? BTW, I came
up with 158' 1.3.
Joe M.
No, RG-174 is not good for this application.
The
Slightly off topic but here goes:
Just got a new FT-897D at the hamfest and want to run it along with the
Alinco DR-600 in the truck.
My question is, how much physical separation must I have between the
VHF/UHF antennas to prevent damaging either radio while transmitting on the
other?
Sorry
- meant to inlcude frequency - senior brain fade - hi!
420/470MHz.
Tks
Jack
(:)
-Original Message-From: Paul Guello
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: 24 November 2004 00:20To:
Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: [Repeater-Builder]
Supplier of
Hello list, I have a novel idea...
Remove the new duplexer you bought and replace it with
the 6-pack mobile duplexer without the problem:)
Most repeater owners will agree if it's not broke
DON'T fix it!
Regards, Barry
--- Neal Newman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
First off You changed the
Bob it may be the same one. It measures 9 X 9 1/4 inches and is fairly heavy.
The output to input port loss is 20 dB at the ends of it's coverage and 40 dB
at the tuned frequency. The 3 dB bandwidth is about 3 Mhz.
Do you have tuning instructions?
Joe
At 03:17 PM 11/22/2004 -0800, you wrote:
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, S. Stepanek
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
... Does somebody have the catalog/specs page for DB-4050
duplexer...
__
_
Model DB-4050 is designed for stations operating with close frequency
Searching the web has come up nada... Does somebody
have the catalog/specs page for DB-4050 duplexers that
they could send me?
Thanks...
Sean / NØPBA
Yahoo! Groups Links
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--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Ciarcia [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Bob it may be the same one. It measures 9 X 9 1/4 inches and is
fairly heavy.
The output to input port loss is 20 dB at the ends of it's coverage
and 40 dB
at the tuned frequency. The 3 dB bandwidth is about 3 Mhz.
On Tuesday 23 November 2004 01:40 pm, Mike WA6ILQ wrote:
Do you have a spare digital output and a spare digital
input? Can you trigger a timer on an input going
inactive? If so, add a 555 timer chip outside.
Yes, Yes, and Aha! Thanks for the idea. If I do that I will
have used up all my
Tony King - W4ZT wrote:
My question is, how much physical separation must I have between the
VHF/UHF antennas to prevent damaging either radio while transmitting on the
other?
I've always used a rule of thumb of 1/4 wave plus a little at the lowest
frequency. In other words, in this
Is there anyone on the list that is familiar and versitle with the
Cushman CE-6030 series of service monitors that could help me. I
need some assistance on how to read the sensitivity dial better than
what I am. All help would be greatly appreciated.
Mathew
Yahoo! Groups Links
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Bad capacitor in the audio stage?
Jeff
At 09:39 AM 11/25/2004, you wrote:
Hi group!
I have a vhf pll exciter that is very noisy, by that I mean scratchy
sounds on the carrier. When I unplug the PA and run the exciter
alone with no audio into a dummy load I get this noise, so I know it
is
At 10:34 AM 11/25/2004 -0500, you wrote:
Bad capacitor in the audio stage?
---I fixed a Repco repeater for a local ham that had this exact problem.
An interstage coupling cap developed an internal intermittent connection
and the xmt audio would crackle as temperature shifted. Physical movement
I know what this question can lead to, and I know dual band
antenna's are not recommended for use on repeaters, but this is a
short term use, (Winter), need. Is there anyone that is using a
dual band atenna on their repeater system with a duplexer to split
the two bands. What I am
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Otterson
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Jeff, I disconnected the audio line to the exciter. NO Noise, so
then I disconnected the audio from the Rx. The noise was still
there. The only thing left is the NRHC 3+ controller. What would
generate noise
I'll answer you honestly without flaming you :) If you use an antenna
such as the Diamond X700HNA (my preference in cheesy antennas), or the
Diamond X500HNA, they will both work well. You should take them apart
and SOLDER (I used silver solder) all the joints. I did this on my
X700HNA, and
Yes, possibly a bad capacitor anywhere in the audio chain.
What else do you have connected up? A receiver?
Happy Thanksgiving!
Jeff
At 11:09 AM 11/25/2004, you wrote:
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Otterson
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Jeff, I disconnected the audio line to
I now have 3 2720s and yes they are ham rigs. Also, They are tuned for local
comercial freq that we do church ops on as well commercial freq for Severe
Weather Research.
Verry well built rig.
kb8qeu
Robert Grizzard wrote:
It is a ham rig. The problem I can see is if the 2 meter side is
The antenna is indeed the Diamond X500, and at this point I have not had any
noice that I have detected thus far. Just need to make this setup work
until next spring when the tower will go up fo rthe repeater and the Decible
Products antenna's are in place and the beams for the remote receiver
Depends on the length...
1/4 wave is high Z on one end, low Z
on the other end.
1/2 wave repeats the impedance found
on the end.
cheers,
skipp
mch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK. I always get those mixed up. So, the shorted stub passes nothing
except the tuned frequency, right?
Joe
From: Mr. Edgar McKinney [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2004 11:45:04 -0500
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] IC 2720
I now have 3 2720s and yes they are ham rigs. Also, They are tuned for local
comercial freq that we do church ops on as well commercial freq for Severe
Weather
jimbob50613 wrote:
Jeff, I disconnected the audio line to the exciter. NO Noise, so
then I disconnected the audio from the Rx. The noise was still
there. The only thing left is the NRHC 3+ controller. What would
generate noise there, Bad Cap? What should I look for? Tnx...Jim
This
Ok, brings up a good question, I fed the 12 volts section with
the 10 volts supply, would this drop of 2 volts cause a major drop in the audio
out section?
Mathew
Matt, no it is not worth the trouble. Just feed only the 10 volt section.
That will disable the audio. The 12 volts
I had a situation where I needed to do that at a repeater site in Sioux City,
Iowa. We had about 35 watts on the UHF about 25 watts on the 2 meter, using
a Comet tri-band GP-15 ant 4160 diplexer.
It's been operational for about 4 years, working fine.
Certainly, mono-band antennas are best.
Thanks John, I'm going to give it a try and see how it works. Can't do no
more than be a disaster and just have to reunhook everything.
Mathew
I had a situation where I needed to do that at a repeater site in Sioux
City,
Iowa. We had about 35 watts on the UHF about 25 watts on the 2
Jeff, I have a Mastr II station. A NHRC 3+ as the controller and
your DAD board. In the audio chain I'm also using a GE channel guard
board. The 3+, DAD board and CG board are in the same enclosure with
feed thru caps. I have disconnected the receiver and left the Pll
exciter audio hooked
Sure will cause problems,it will throw the bias off causing
all kinds of trouble.Best to feed it proper voltage or none at all.Try starting
your car on 10 volts
- Original Message -
From:
Mathew Quaife
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday,
Did that once, was not a good thing, Lost a good FT-5100 that
way. Ok, will apply 12 volts and see what the results are.
Mathew
Sure will cause problems,it will throw the bias off causing
all kinds of trouble.Best to feed it proper voltage or none at all.Try
starting your car on
I wondered if anyone could give me some ideas on co-phasing two
Sinclair SRL-210C4 repeater antennas together.
They both have 50ohm impeadence.
I think you would just use odd 1/4 wave electrical harness between the
two. I know how to calculate the lenght of the coax.
I have one top
If physical shock won't find it you can frequently
use thermal shock - some need cooling to locate,
others need heat.
The simple way is to get a can of freeze spray and
zap one component at a time. However this does get
expensive in a hurry. Aerosol canned ethyl chloride
is a specialty item
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